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Full text of "A new collection of voyages, discoveries and travels : containing whatever is worthy of notice, in Europe, Asia, Africa and America"

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IF 


^MiOM^/iA^ 


'/Uui 


/u>A/m 


SIXTH     VOLUME. 


^,     CONTENTS 

^^Br*  H  E  Voyage  and  Travels  of  Mr.  John  Thevenot, 
^  from  Italy  to  Conftantinopk :  in  which  are  in- 

cluded the  Remarks  of  other  Travellers,       p^  i 
Mr.  Wood's  Journey  to  Palmyra,  or  Tedmor  in  the 
De&rt,  80 

.  Wood's  Account  of  the  Ruins  of  Balbec  \  the 
mticnt  Hcliopolis,  in  Ccelofyria,  104 

t  Defcription  of  Judea,    or  the  Holy  Land  j    and 
particularly  of  the  City  of  Jerufalem :    coUeftcd 
from  the  Writings  of  Maundrell,  Shaw,  and  odicr 
"travellers,  111 

C  Travels  of  Dr.  Pococke,  through  Egypt ;  with 
kfional  Extradti  from  Mr.  Norden,  133 

I  Travels  through  Barbary,  243 

mey  to  Mequinez ;  by  Mr.  Windus,  a  Gcntle- 

1 1  he  Retinue  of  Charles  Stewart,  Efq-,  Am- 

■  ;  Emperor  of  Morocco,  2gi 

:  inland  Parts  of  Africa  j  by  Francis 

;  an  Account  of  the  Adventures 

of 


CONTENTS. 

cf  Job  Bfg,  Solomon,  Son  of  the  High-prieil  of 

Bundo,  315 

The  iravd^  of  SirJohBChardin,  througk Mingrelia 

and  Georgia  into  Perfia,  .      335 

An  Account  of  Indoftin;  interfperfed  with  the  Ob- 
it rvaii'-vis  of  Sir  Thomas  Roe,  Mr.  Holwell,  and 
other  Ift'^yirj^        .  .    .■  405 

A  Journey  from  St.,Peteriburg,  to  Pekin  ;  with  an 

Embafly    from  his  Imperial  Majcfty  Peter  the 

'    Fitftj.to  Kamhi  Emperor  of  China;  B|  John  BelJ, 

'    EfilV        ■■  '    -  444 


•  •    ^ 


■■•  1.      f- 


\ 


a  THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

tion  that  he  went  to  Rotnf,  where,  meeting  acci- 
deaially  with  the  celebrated  Mr.  Herbclot,  the  moll 
learned  man  of  his  age,  in  every  branch  of  oriental 
Titeraturc,  he  caught  from  him  fo  violent  a  pafiion  for 
penetrating  into  whatever  was  curious  or  cxcraoriii- 

.  nary  in  the  Eaft,  that  he  refolvcd  to  continue  his  tra- 
vels to  the  molt  diftani  part  thereof.  In  this  lie  flat- 
.tercd  himfelf  with  the  hopes  of  having  the  company 

■  of  the  very  judicious  perlbn  before  mentioned  ;  but 
fome  f.imily  affairs,  which  required  the  prefence  of" 
that  learned  gentleman,  obliged  him  at  that  time  to 
return  into  France,  But  Mr.  Thcvcnoc  having  made 
all  the  neceiTary  preparations  for  this  long  expedi- 
tion, and  being  encouraged  to  undertake  it  by  his 
friend,  who  promifed  to  join  him  in  the  ifland  of 
Malta,  he  reiolvcd  to  proceed  in  the  execution  of 
his  deiign. 

Accordingly,  on  Monday,  May  i,  1655,  he  left 
•Rome,  in  ordur  to  embark  at  Civita-Vecchia  oti 
■board  the  galley  commanded  by  count  Gaddi.  On 
June  the  2d,  he  embarked  at  Civita-Vecchia,  and 
came  to  an  anchor  before  the  port  of  Mefiina  in  Si- 
ciiv  in  feven  day=.     It  is  a  fate  harbour  by  nature,  and 

.  round  it  are  feveral  f^r  palaces  built  very  uniformly, 
which  form  a  pleatant  profpeft. 

There  are  1  S  firong  caftles  Jn  it,  but  four  of  them 
only  aii;  in  the  hands  of  the  Spaniards  :  the  MelTmefe 
have  the  relt,  1  he  town  is  very  rich,  by  rcafon  of 
the  great  trade  in  filk  driven  there.  There  are  no 
inns  for  llrargers,  fo  that  they  are  obliged  to  lodge  in 
a  wretched  tavern  by  the  harbour.  AH  things  are 
chtapi  tlie  wir.es  ftrong,  but  bad.  It  is  an  arclii- 
epifcopul  fee.  The  Strcights  are  made  dangerous  by 
Scilla  and  Charybdis,  though  anciently  they  were 
much  more  fo  ih;in  now,  becaufc  navigation  is  im- 
proved. Sciila  is  a  rock  near  the  calUe  Scyliio,  on 
the  Italian  Ihorc.     Charybdis  is  the  meeting  of  two 

.  contrary  eddies,  which  by  beating  and  cUlhing  one 

;tgainll  another,  make  a  noifc  like  the  barking  of* 

dogs  J 


to  THE  LJEVANt.  ^ 

xiogs ;  and  by  caufing  veffds  to  turn  round  about, 
fuck  them  down  to  the  bottom:  nor  is  the  harbour 
jtfclf  faf e  from  it,  for  the  currents  will  fometimes  carry 
the  fhips  out  into  it ;  and  therefore  the  MelTinefe  have 
always  a  number  of-  pilots  in  readinefs  to  aflift  veflels 
in  danger. 

Sicily  is  of  a*  triangular  form,  each  angle  making  a 
cape,  which  are  now  called  Difaro,  anciently  Pelorns; 
PafTaro,  anciently  Pachinis ;  and  Bocho,  heretofore 
Lilibasum.  It  is  but  three  miles  diftant  from  Italy^ 
being  feparated  from  it  by  a  dangerous  ftreight,  call- 
ed. The  Pbaro  of  Mejfma.  It  is  the  moll  confiderable 
ifland  of  the  Mediterranean  fea,  both  for  bignef*?,  be- 
ing 700  miles  in  compafs,  and  fruitfulnefs ;  producing 
plcncy  of  corn,  excellent  wines,  olives,  and  other  necef- 
Taries  of  life,  infomuch  that  it  was  anciently  called  one 
of  the.granaries  of  Rome.  Ft  contains  a  great  many  fair 
rich  towrts,  but  it  is  much  annoyed  by  the  eruptions 
of  mount  Gibello,  or  lEtm^  which  cafts  forth  abun- 
dance of  flames,  afhes,  and  torrents  of  melted  mat- 
ter :  it  is  alfo  much  troubled  with  earthquakes.  The 
king  of  Spain  has  always  a  viceroy  there,  who  has  his 
i'efidehcc  half  a  year  at  Palermo,  and  the  relt  at  Mef- 
fina.  The  Sicilians  are  revcna;eiul,  hauo;htv,  and 
jealous  ;  efpfecially  of  the  French,  whom  they  fui'pcft 
not  to  have  foro-otten  the  Sicilian  Vcfners  :  nnd  ibr 
that  reafon  ahvays  wear  their  dan^gers  by  their  fide, 
even  in  their  fhops  and  work  houft's.  From  McP'na 
he  coafted  along  by  Syracuie,  now  corruptly  called 
Saragoufia,  formerly  the  metropolis  of  Sicily,  and 
biith-place  of  Archimedes  -,  the  counti7'  about  which 
produces  excellent  mufcadin.* :  he  next  made  the  ifle 
of  Malta,  anciently  called  Mt^liia,  from  the  plenty  of 
honey  it  yielded. 

Malta  is  a  low  ifland,  and  the  foil  a  foft  chalky 
rock,  yet  it  produces  very  good  fruirs  ;  but  little  or 
no  corn,  for  that  is  brought  from  Sicily  ihirher.  The 
nir  is  fo  hot,  that  there  i)  no  walking^  in  the  Tun  -,  and 
the  nights  are  as  intolerable,  through  the  ftingin[>;  of 
'   '      '  B  2  mufketoe 


s« 


4  THEVtNOT's   TRAVELS 

mufiictocs.  Head-aches  and  fore  eyes,  caufed  by  tlw 
whiterels  of  the  earth,  are  tlierc  coiimon  and  dan- 
gerous. There  are  no  venomous  Ic.ilts  in  the  illc, 
which  the  people  attribute  to  it.  P;'urs  beneditlion. 
The  ifland  is  populous  •,  the  people  are  of  a  brown 
complexion,  and  are  vi;ry  revengeful  -,  the  women  arc 
-beautiful  and  familiar.  "Ihey  fpeak  Arabic,  but 
Italian  is  alfo  common. 

Here  are  fevcral  ports  and  creeks,  but  the  chief 
havens  are  the  great  pore,  and  ih;ic  cilled  Miirfa- 
.  mouclK-t.  In  the  grrat  pure  are  all  the  gallic;  of  tlie 
order  laid  up,  and  all  tlie  vcfli;ls  that  are  to  make  any 
ftay  at  Malta,  either  to  load,  careen,  or  refit,  put  in 
there:  it  ii>Qiut  with  an  iron  chain.  The  port  uf  Mar- 
famouchet  is  for  (hips  to  pcribrm  their  quarantine  in, 
before  they  have  accels  to  the  town,  and  for  fuch  as 
by  reafun  of  foul  wearher  cannot  get  into  the  greac 
port ;  as  aifo  for  the  Corfairs,  who  come  only  for  a 
little  time,  and  fo  will  not  go  into  the  great  port,  be- 
caufe  it  is  hard  to  get  out  again.  As  loon  as  the  king 
of  Spain  had  given  the  ifland  of  Malta  to  the  knights 
of  St.  John  ot  Jerul'alem,  lultan  Solyman  refolveJ  tt» 
extirpate  them,  and  lent  a  powerful  army  to  take  it: 
but  t':e  Turks  delpairing  of  iuccefs,  left  the  ifle  in  the 
end  of  September,  IC65. 

.  When  the  Turks  were  gone,  the  knights  refolved 
to  b-iiid  a  ii=\v  town,  where  the  great  mailer  with  all 
tlie  order  might  conveniently  dwell.  They  pitched 
upon  the  tongue  of  land  v/here  the  caftle  of  St.  Ermc 
uan.Is,  from  v.hcnce  the  Turks  had  fo  furiouOy  driven 
them.  The  great  mailer  John  la  Valetta  laid  the  firft: 
lione  of  it,  M-lrth  28.  1566,  and  from  himfelf  called 
it  V'aletta:  it  lias  been  lb  fortified  fince,  that  few 
places  can  cquid  it. 

Fronithe  port  you  go  up  an  hill  to  the  town, 
which  is  fmail,  but  very  pretty.  It  hath  but  two 
gates,  one  lcadi:ig  to  tlie  purt,  the  other  into  the 
<,oi.mtr\'.  There  are  feveral  churches  in  ir,  but  that 
•t'  St.  John  is  ths  cliief.    It  is  a  lai^e  building,  paved 

wiA 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  5 

with  beautiful  marble,  and  adorned  with  many  co- 
lours taken  from  infidels.  In  this  church  they  pre- 
tend to  have  many  fine  reliques,  as  St.  John  BaptiftV 
right-hand,  and  maay  others.  There  arc  feveral  ad- 
mirable buildings  in  the  town  \  among  others  the 
ftatcly  palace  of  tjie  great  mailer,  in  which  is  a  ma- 
gazine of  arms  for  35  or  40,000  men,  kept  very 
clean  and  in  great  order :  and  among  them  the  arms 
of  fuch  great  mafters  as  have  l^^en  wounded  in  any 
a^ion  with  the  Turk$,  ar<  to  be  fcen  with  the  marks 
upon  them. 

Leaving  Malta,  he  failed  by  the  ifle  of  Sapienza, 
and  having  weathered  Cape  Matapan,  came  to  aa 
anchor  in  the  bay  of  St.  Nicholas,  in  the  Ifle  of  Ce- 
rigo.  Cape  Matapan  is  a  promontory  of  the  Mbrea, 
formerly  called  Tcnarus :  this  country  is  inhabited  by 
the  Meinots,  a  people  who  live  in  the  mountains 
without  law  or  government,  and  are  fubjedk  to  thofe 
who  have  mod  power  in  the  country  5  fometimes  the 
Venetians,  and  lometimcs  rhe  Turks.  All  their  bufi- 
nefs  is  to  rob  travellers.  Cerigo  is  the  firft  ifland  iri 
the  Archipelago,  or  iEgean  Sea,  60  miles  in  com- 
pafs,  and  5  from  the  main  land.  The  Venetians  are 
mafters  of  it,  and,keep  a  good  garriibn  there,  becaule 
it  is  a  pafs  of  very  great  importance. 

The  iflands  of  the  Archipelago,  anciently  termed 
the  i^gean  fea,  lie  to  tlie  e.ift  of  l\irky  in  Europe,  • 
and  are  comprifed  by  ancient  geographers  under  two 
general  names  j  thole  calif  d  the  Cyclades,  or  the  Cir- 
cle Iflands,  from  tJirir  forming  a  kind  of  circle  round 
Delos;  and  thofe  which  lyin^;  fcattered  at  a  greaicr 
diftance  from  Deios  were  called  t!ic  Sporades,  or  Scat- 
tered Iflands. 

From  Cerigo,  he  failed  to  Zia,  leaving  many  in- 
confulcraMe  iflands  on  the  right-hand,  as  Melo,  An- 
timclo,  ijc<.     This  ifle  was  anciently  called  Ceos,  or 
Cca  ;  it  is  fliai>ed  like  an  ho.ic -flioe,  and  is  50  miles  ia  • 
circumrerence.     The  inJubitantb  pav  a  tribute  to  the  . 
Turks  of  34OU  pfafircs,  and  to  tne  Venetians  26C0 

li   ^  V:t:t\tl 


6  THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

belidc  the  e^to^ti;ms  and  robfccs-ies  they  rrect  w-ili, 
■which  fo  im;>cverilh  thrm,  tliat  they  arc  olt.-n  forced 
to  leave  their  habitr.ti  jns, 

'  From  Zia  he  fiilcd  to  Andra,  anciently  called  An?- 
dros,  60  miles  tVo-i  i:,  and  So  in  circuit.  It  is  leck- 
oncd  the  molt  fertile  idjnd  of  the  Archifclagi).  \t 
produces  almoii  all  thmgs  ncciOiiry,  and  iilK  more 
efpecially,  for  which  thiy  have  a  great  trade.  'Jhe 
port  is  pretty  good,  i.'.id  the  town  adjoining  to  it  hath 
about  200  houfes.  There  is  a  great  number  of 
Greek  churches  in  the  ifle,  which  arc  under  the  p,Ot 
vernmcnt  and  dilcipline  cf  a  Greek  Ijlhop.  The 
J^aiins  alfo  have  a  billu.p  ti-.ere,  and  fi::  churches,  of 
which  the  cathedral  is  dtdi^Jted  ts  St.  Andrew.  The 
fspuchins  preach  in  therr,  and  teach  a  fchcol,  to 
which  the  Greeks  lend  their  children  from  as  far  as 
Athens,  ']"he  'I'lirks  difpole  of  the  temporal  affairs 
of  this"  ifle,  and  are  but  uneafy  neighbours  to  the 
Chriftians.  The  inhaHit^nis  are  civil  ;  their  women 
are  chsflc,  and  ft-eak  well,  but  their  apparel  is  unbc- 
Coming,  'i  he  iniiabitanis  of  tlie  tov.ns  iove  good 
cheer  ;:nd  cJiverficns,  ar.d  c::re  nut  m.iKh  to  labour; 
bur  t;:e  p;?.i;-.nts  aie  very  induftrioos.  They  iiave 
neither  pliyTjcian  n^r  (hirurfrcon,  but  when  tiiey  are 
fick,  bL'take  thenii'elvcs  to  the  mercy  of  God  as  their 
Only  rcT-.fd'.', 

From  Andra  h:-  failed  by  the  Nefrrnpfnt,  Sciro, 
Ipficcra,  Ch;o,  ard  'l\ncdo,  to  Troy,  where  there 
are  ftill  conf:derablo  ruins  of  that  ancient  and  famous 
city,  and  thufc  of  great  extent ;  viz.  an  harbour, 
pieces  of  ltr&.e  pillars,  and  the  rem;:ins  of  a  great 
temple :  bi't :  he  learned  fay,  that  they  arc  only  the  ruins 
of  fomc  buildjn;2£  er^tied  '.litre  by  the  Kon;ans  Jong 
after  thedeftrudiion  of  Troy.  From  liencc  he  paifcU 
the  moiiihs  and  entered  tlie  channel  of  nie  i-ieik-fpont, 
where  the  Turks  firft  paHed  over  into  l.tiropc;  and 
failing  betwi::t  the  Ciiftlcs  r.f  the  Dardan,cls,  came  to 
an  anchor.  Ihc  Dard^neh  are  two  caftlcs,  built  en 
tach  lide  the  channel  of  the  llcitefpcnt  by  Mahomec 

II. 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  % 

•  « 

II.  fon  of  Amurath  II.  The  one  (lands  in  Europe, 
in  Romania,  in  the  very  place  where  Sellos  formerly, 
flood.  This  caftle  is  triangular,  and  befide  two  baf- 
•tions,  hath  three  towers  covered  with  lead,  and  20 
large  guns,  which  carry  ftone  bullets  of  60  pounds 
weight.  The  other  is  in  Afia,  in  a  plain  where  aor  x 
ciencly  Abidos  flood.  Thefe  two  forts  are  the  keys 
of  Conftantinople,  though  at  200  miles  diftance  -,  foif 
they  can  hinder  any  fhip  to  pafs  them  without  l^av^. 
All  (hips  that  come  from  Condantinople,  are  fearched 
here  for  contraband  goods  and  fugitive  (laves.  Thefe 
places  are  famous  for  the  loves  of  Hero  and  Leander, 
and  Xerxes*s  bridge  into  Europe,  which  was  made 
hereabout.     From  Andra  to  this  caftle  is  280  miles. 

From  thence  he  failed  to  Galliopoli,  which  is  but 
thinly  peopled  :  The  Greeks  that  dwell  in  it  fell  raki, 
or  brandy,  for  the  mod  part  -,  and  their  hou fes  have 
doors  not  above  fix  feet  high,  to  keep  out  the  Turks^ 
who  will  ride  in  elfe  when  they  arc  drunk,  and  turn  all 
things  upfide  down.  It  has  a  tower  and  arfcnal, 
where  are  commonly  laid  up  feveral  gallies. 

Departing  thence  he  palled  the  ille  of  Marmora^ 
which  gives  name  to  the  fea  that  was  formerly  called 
the  Propontis,  and  failing  along  by  the  Seraglio  and 
Conftantinople,  came  to  an  anchor  at  Galata,  where 
is  the  harbour  of  that  city.  The  lea  of  Marmora,  or 
the  Propontis,  which  is  about  120  German  leagues  in 
compafs,  lies  between  the  .8"^  and  41^  of  norihcrn  la- 
titude, which  makes  the  clime  lb  temperate,  that  it 
has  neither  the  inconveniencies  of  (harp  cold,  or 
burning  hears,  which  is  tKe  rcalon  that  both  fides  of 
it  has  been  fo  well  adorned  with  famous  cities.  On 
the  Afian  fide  ftood  Ghizico,  a  town  formerly  famous 
not  only  lb:*  bring  built  by  the  Argonauts  500  years 
before  liorne,  but  for  its  lofty  towers,  magnificent 
buildings,  large  arfenals  and  magazines,  fine  amphi- 
theatre and  convenient  port,  though  nothirig  now  re- 
mains  of  all  thefe  things  but  frightful  ruins. 


i  THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

Nice,  called  by  die  Turks  Ifnich,  a  city  famous  fori 
the  firft  general  council,  is  almolt  fquarc,  and  ftand^ 
at  the  extremity  of  a  bay  in  a  fine  plain.  It  is  tncom- 
paiTcd  with  walls  full  of  round  turrets,  and  had  a  co- 
vert-way that  ran  by  them,  but  it  is  now  ruined. 
The  city  is  large,  the  Itreets  neat,  and  has  at  leaft 
10,000  inhabitants,  as  well  Greeks  as  Jews  and 
Turks,  who  trade  in  corn,  fruit,  cotton,  fine  cloth, 
&c.  to  Conftaptiriople.  There  are  here  many  re- 
mains of  Pagan  :ind  Chriflian  antiquities,  but  fo  de- 
faced by  the  Turks,  that  nothing  admirable  is  to  be 
difcerned. 

Montagma,  or  Nicopolis,  ftands  on  a  bay  anciently 
called  Cbnus  Sinus,  from  the  ciiy  of  Cium,  which 
pnce  ftood  there.  This  town  is  fmall,  but  by  means 
of  the  bay  drives  a  great  trade  to  Conftantinople  :  the  ' 
inhabitants  are  aboui  5  or  6000  Greeks,  Turks,  and 
Jpws,  and  are  all  merchants, 

Nicomedia,  r.cxt  to  Conllnntinople,  has  the  plea- 
fanteft  firuan'jn  of  any  city  in  the  woild.     It  ftr.nds  at 
the  bottom  of  a  bay,  and  runs  up  the  ficle  of  an  hill, 
adorned  v,'iih   mar«y  fountairis,  and  is  covered  with 
fruit-trees,  vineyards,  and  corn.     Here  are  abundance 
of  retrjains  of  antiquity,  enou^'h  to  htisfy  the  curio- 
fity  of  travell:*rs.     It  is  fanioi'«s"  for  the  death,  of  Han- 
nibal and  Conilai'^ine  the  Gre:;t,  for  the  early  conver- 
lion  of  it:  inbabitanis  to  Chriiiianicy,  and  the  many 
inarryrs  who  fejled  the  faiih  wiih  their  blood.     It  is 
called  Ifmit  by  the  Turks,  an!  is  a  large  and  popu- 
lous  city,  having  aboi^t  30,000  ihhabitancs,  Greeks, 
Armenians,  J'ww;>,  and  Turl.s  j  who  moft  of  them  live 
by  trading  in  (Ilk:,  i   i.'in-uo.ol,  lincn-clochs,  fruits, 
earthen  an  J  ghfs-warei,  a'  d  feveral  other  commodi- 
ties, which  nial^e  :r  r.  city  of  r-rat  iraflic.     There  are 
many  Greek  ciiUrc'ier  and  fair  mofcjues,  with  feveral 
inns  and  neat  ba/. -rs,  or  nrket-plrxes,  in  this  town. 
Moft  Oi   tiic  ;-,i- .s  and  '.'en*  I-  which  belong  10  Con- 
(taiuinoplc  are  built  here,  bu:  chey  are  forry  artifts  at 
'        ■  •  '         Ibip- 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  9 

^ip-building.  On  the  right  fide  of»thc  bay  of  Nico? 
media  is  a  fountain  of  mineral  water,  which  the  Turk? 
and  Greeks  fay,  cures  all  diftcmpcrs, 

Chalccdon.  This  to\vn  was. once  famous  for  the 
jemples  of  Venus  and  Apollo.  Many  Chriftian 
churches  were  built- here ;  and  arj  ong  them  one  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Euphemia,  where  tlv:  fourth  general 
council  fet,  and  in  pnrt  of  which,  as  it  Ibll  remains, 
phc  Greeks  have  yet  their  religious  W(Tlhip.  It  is 
now  reduced  to  a  village  of  1000  01  1200  houfes,  and 
thofe  very  ruinous.  The  city  gives  name  to  the 
ftreights  adjoining,  which  are  called  Frctum  Chalce- 
donicum,  Bofphorus  Chalcedonius,  as  well  as  Bof- 
pliorus  Thracius.  Near  it  is  a  lighr-houfe  and  a 
pleafure-houfe  belonging  to  the  grand  fignior. 

On  the  Thracian  Bde  (lands  Rouofto,  or  Radifto, 
a  town  well  fituated  at  the  extremity  of  a  bay,  which 
affording  it  a  very  good  haven,  fills  it  with  inhabitants, 
who  drive  a  trade  all  over  I'hrace,  the  Propontis,  and 
Black  Sea.  • 

Perinthiw^  or  Heraclea,  which  once  gave  law  to 
Byzantium,  but  now  is  fubjed:  ro  )t.  This  town  h^th 
twOjgood  havens  belonginj^  to  ir,  but  one  of  them  is 
fo  (jnoaked  up  with  the  rubbilh  and  filth  of  the  city, 
that  it  ferves  only  for  barks  and  faicks.  The  amphi- 
theatre of  Heraclea  was  one  of  the  feven  wonders  of 
the  world ;  but  now  there  are  only  fomc  fhattered  ruins 
of  it.  'I  here  are  alfo  to  be  fcen  many  pedeftals  with 
Greek  infcriptions  to  Severus,  Trajan,  and  other  em- 
peror^,  who  had  conferred  any  fignal  benefit  upon  the 
pty;  but  the  ftatucs  which  once  Itood  upon  them  arc 
thrown  down  and  dcmoliihed.  The  town  at  prefcnt 
is  but  thinly  inhabited,  and  drives  but  a  fmail  trade. 
The  cathedral  i^  or*:  of  the  finell  in  all  Greece,  having 
a  handlome  r(>.)J,  r.nd  being  very  neat  in  the  infide, 
and  better  contrived  than  the  patriarchal  church  of 
Conftaminople.  There  are  five  or  fix  churches  befide, 
but  none  of  them  in  lo  gocxl  a  con'^ition  as  the  former, 
and  two  of  them  arc  wliolly  difufcd. 

In 


la        THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

In  the  Propontis  are  fcveral  iflands ;  that  of  Mar- 
mora, which  gives  name  to  the  whole  fca,  is  about 
ten  leagues  in  compafs.     Nearer  to  Conftantinople 
lies  another  knot  of  illands,  called  by  the  Turks  Papas 
Adaflj,  by  the  Greeks  Papa  Donilfa,  or  the  Iflands 
of  the  Monks;  and   by  the  Europeans,  The  Pope's 
JJles.     If  Conftantinople  were  in  the   haods  of  the 
Chriftians,  thefe  iflands  would  be  a  perfect  paradifc  ^ 
but  being  fubjecl  to  the  ravages  of  the  Turks,  who 
often  go  thither  to  be  drunk,  and  in  their  heat  rifle 
their  gardens  and  vineyards,  they  lie  in  a  manner  un- 
cultivated :  and  only  a  few  Caloycrs  manure  a  little 
bit  of  land  by  the  monalleries  for  herbs  and  roots  for 
their  own  ufe,     Thefe  Caloyers  are  monks  of  St.  Ba- 
lil,  who  retain  the  ancient  way  of  living  and  habit^ 
without  any  alteration.     They  lead  a  very  retired  and  * 
auftere  life,  and  never  eat  any  flefli.     They  obllrvc- 
four  lents  in  the  year,  befide  fcveral  other  fafl:s  •,  and 
fome  among  them  are  fo  abftemious  as  to  be  fatis- 
fied  with  eating  a  little  bread  and  pulfe,  drefTed  with 
fait  and  water,  once  a-day :  and  others   by  cufl:om 
have  brought  themfelves  to  eat  once  in  two  or  three 
days,   during  iheir  lents.     It  is  faid,  fome  will   cic 
but  feven  times   in  the  fevcn  weeks  of  their  longeft 
lent,  though  this  feems  improbable.     The  rell  order 
matters  cunnir.gly  :    for  thougli   indeed  they  eat  no 
butter,  fifh,  eggs,  or  oil,    and  drink  no  wine ;  yet 
they  ule  other  things  luxurioufly,  as  oyfl:ers,  cavear, 
and  Ihell-firn,    almonds,  pillachos,  and    nuts,   aqua 
\ic?p,  coffee,  and  fncroer,  ^c. 

.  Conftantinople  has  the  happicri:  fituation  iS  any 
city  in  the  wcrLl  It  lies  in  luirope  upon  a  point  of 
the  main  land,  jetting  out  toward  the  liofphorus  of 
Thrace,  from  whence  it  is  but  half  an  hour's  paflagc 
into  Afia.  On  the  rio-ht-hand  is  the  White  Sea,  or 
Propontis,  hy  which  there  is  an  eafy  pafiage  into  Afia, 
Egj^pt,  and  Africa,  whereby  it  is  lupplied  with  all 
the  commodities  of  thofe  places.  On  the  left-hand  it 
hath  the  Black  or  Euxine  Sea,  and  Palus  Ma^otis,  by 

which 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  jt 

which  it  is  furnifhed  with  all  the  commodities  of  the 
y^orth ;  infomuch  that  there  is  nothing  that  can  be 
neceflary,  ufeful,  or  pleafant,  which  is  not  brought 
plentifully  to  Conftantinople :  the  winds  always  ferv- 
ing  to  bring  in  commodities  from  one  of  thole  parts. 
The  port  is  by  nature  the  lovelieft  in  the  world,  being 
fix  miles  in  compals,  and  a  mile  over  -,  and  fo  deep  in 
all  places,  that  a  (hip  may  lay  her  head  afliore  with- 
out danger.  It  was  anciently  called  Byzantium,  and 
was  bulk  by  Paufanias,  king  of  Sparta.  The  em- 
peror Severus  dcmoliflied  it,  to  punifti  the  rebellion 
of  the  inhabitants,  and  Conftantine  the  Great  rebuilt 
it,  calling  it  New  Rome  firft,  and  then  Conftanti- 
nople. Being  afterward  dedicated  to  the  Virgin,  it 
fometimcs  brars  the  name  of  Parthcnopolis ;  the 
Turks  call  it  Iftambol,  or  Stamboul.  After  the  di- 
vifion  of  the  Roman  empire,  it  was  the  feat  of  the 
Eaftern  e-npero-s,  from  whom,  in  1209,  it  was  taken 
by  the  Venetians  and  French,  but  recovered  by  the 
Palseologi  f^fty  yenrs  after,  and  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Turks  on  Whitfnnday,  1453,  v/ho  have  kept  it 
ever  fince.  The  air  in  fummer  would  be  very  hoc 
and  incommodious,  were  it  not  cooled  by  a  breeze 
which  comes  every  afternoon  from  the  month  of  the 
port,  by  which  it  is  rendered  very  healtliful  ;  fo  that 
np  difeafe*?  are  known  here  but  the  plague,  which 
makes  a  great  ha/ock  every  year.  It  is  very  fubjedt 
to  earthquakes,  fo  thi^t  fometimcs  two  happen  in  a 
day.  The  figure  of  it  is  triangular,  one  fide  lying 
toward  the  Froyonri';,  the  other  on  the  port,  and  the 
third  toward  the  land.  It  is  all  encompafied  with 
good  walls,  and  to  the  land-fide  they  are  double ; 
being  built  in  fome  places  of  frec-ftone,  and  in  others 
of  free- (lone  and  brick.  It  hath  22  gates,  G  toward 
the  land,  as  many  abng  the  port,  and  10  on  the 
ftreight  of  the  Propontis.  The  whole  city  is  about 
twelve  miles  in  compafs. 

The  caftle  of  the  feven  towers  joins  the  double 
Trails  on  the  continent  fide  to  thofe  that  lie  upor 

tl 


n.       THEVENOrs  TRAVELS 

h 

the  Propontis.  It  was  anciently  one  of  the  city  gates, 
called  Tbe  Gilded  Gale^  from  the  giit  ornaments  of  it, 
^nd  had  four  turrets;  but  Mahomet  II.  beco;rlng 
mafter  of  Conftantinople,  added  three  new  ones,  and 
m^de  it  a  caftle,  ftrong  enough  to  keep  the  treafurcs 
of  the  empire,  and  for  thatpurpofc  it  imcd  a  long 
tinr.e.  At  prcfcnt  it  is  only  ulcd  as  an  honourable 
prifon,  where  the  grand  fignior  fhuts  up  fuch  perfons 
of  quality  and  flaves  of  note  as  have  incurred  his  dil- 
plcafure.  If  any  Chriftian^  are  confined  in  it,  their 
priefts  are  allowed  to  come  and  fay  mafs  to  them  in  a 
Uttlc  chapel ;  and  if  they  are  knights  of  Maita,  or 
other  perfons  of  quality,  they  are  allowed  to  go  our, 
if  an  ambaffador,  or  other  perlbn  of  note,  will  be  en- 
gaged for  their  return.  Sultan  Olman  and  Heuflein 
Balhaw  were  ftranglcd  in  this  callle. 

Without  the  walk',  hard  by  one  of  thcfe  caftles,  are 
two  large  ftatucs  of  white  marble  in  bade  relief-,  the 
one  feems  to  be  Hndimion,  with  Diana  coming  down 
to  f^ jiim  •,  and  the  other  the  nine  mufcs,  with  the 
horie  r<?gVus,  •  llhey  are  done  by  a  gucd  hand,  but 
inferior  to  fome  ^k^es  in  Europe.  In  going  by  fca 
frona  this  caftie  to  th"S  Seraglio,  there  is  a  fqu.ue  tower 
ftanding  in  the  lea,  at  about  two  paces  fron)  the  ^ity 
walls,  where,  they  fay,  Juilinian  imprifoned  Bclira- 
rius,  his  famous  gen:^ral,  out  of  meer  jealoufy  ^  and 
having  ftript  him  of  all,  forced  him  to  beg  h  s  fub- 
liftcnce  of  charitable  paiTengers.  No:  far  fiom  this 
tower  is  a  fountain,  to  v/hich  :he  Greeks  niways  pay 
a  great  veneration,  and,  uron  the  da.  of  Chrift's 
transfiguration,  carry  their  Tick  to  'r.  co  whom  thoy 
give  fonie  of  the  waters,  and  ccjv  r  cheir  bodies  a 
while  with  the  fand  ;  and  thf:/  fay,  wond-jrful  cures 
have  been  thus  done  by  it.  The  Greeks  lave  abun- 
<Jance  of  thefe  miraculous  fountains,  which  they  fu- 
perftitioufly  honour,  and  the  priefts  encourage  them 
in  it  for  their  own  gain.  Near  this  fountain  ftands 
the  kioflce,  or  plcafure-houfc  of  the  Bcftangi  Bafha, 
or  overfcer  of  the  gardens.     Beyond  this  kiofke  arc 

feveral 


TO  THE  LEVANT*    '  »j 

fcveral  cannon  planted,  fo  as  to  ftrike  any  fbips  that 
pais,  between  wind  and  water ;  to  binder  the  entrance 
into  the  fcraglio  br  pore,  if  any  fhould  attempt  it  by 
force,  Thcfe  pieces  are  always  charged^  but  never 
difcbarged,  unlefs  it  be  upon  folemn  fcalls,  or  public 
rejoicings. 

After  you  have  paflcd  the  cannon,  and  doubled 
the  cape,  where  is  a  fountain,  from*  which  moft  of 
the  fhips  take  in  frefli  water,  you  come  to  two  kiofkes, 
built  by  fultan  Soliman,  to  view  the  going  out  and 
coming  in  of  the  men  of  war,  and  divert  himfelf 
with  his  women.  Thele  are  all  the  remarkable  things 
without  the  walls,  both  of  the  city  and  feraglio.  We 
will  now  go  into  the  city. 

Conitantinople,  like  antient  Rome,  ftands  upon 
fevcn  little  hills ;  and  the  houfcs  are  lb  difpofed,  that 
one  t^kcs  not  away  the  fight  from  the  other.  The 
(Ireets  are  narrow  for  the  moit  part,  but  there  arefe- 
veral  ftately  buildings  in  them,  and  grand  mofques  ; 
of  which  the  moft  magnificent  is  that  of  Santa  .Sophia. 
This  v/as  anciently  a  chriftian  church,  built  by  the 
emperor  Jufdn,  enlarged,  enriched  and  adorned  by 
Juftinian,  and  dedicated  to  Hagia  Sophia,  the 
Wildom  of  God.  The  Turks  have  changed  it  into 
a  mofque,  but  retain  the  name.  This  fabric  is  fquare 
without,  but  round  within ;  and  has  a  dome  in  the 
middle,  in  the  form  a  flatted  globe,  which  is  a  fingu- 
lar  kind  of  architecture.  It  is  paved  with  fine  marble, 
and  matted,  that  the  cold  may  not  hurtfuch  as  come 
to  worfhip  wiiho'Jt  flippers.  There  is  a  tomb,  which, 
the  Turks  fay,  is  Conllan:ine*s;  and  a  (tone,  on  which, 
they  btlieye,  the  Virgin  waihed  our  Lord*s  linen,  and 
on  that  account  tiicy  bear  a  great  reverence  to  it. 

The  church  was  ornamented  in  mofuic  with  croflTes 
and  images  of  Chrlll,  the  Holy  Ghofl,  the  Virgin, 
and  other  laiats;  which  yet  appear,  though  theTurk^s 
have  endeavoured  to  deface  them,  from  their  hatred 
to  images.  Within  are  two  galleries,  one  over  an- 
other, that  go  round  the  church,  and  arc  fupported 

by 


tit         THiEVENOrs  TRAVELS 

by  62  pillars ;  which,  it  is  fuppofcd,  were  for  thrf 
-wbmen  when  it  was  a  church.     On  the  outfide  of 
the  church  are  four  fteeples,  very  high  and  flcndcr^ 
on  which  are  feveral  balconies,  from  whence  the  Mae- 
2ims  call  to  prayers.    It  is  big  enough  to  hold  40,000 ; 
which  number  ufually  meet  in  it  at  their  bairam,  or 
paflbver.    Befide  this  mofque,   there  are  fevert  others, 
called  Royal  or  Imperial,  of  which  the  chief  is  called 
■Solimania,  becaufc  it  was  built  by  fultan  Soliman ; 
whofe  coffin  remains  in  it,  adorned  with  carpets,  a 
turban  fet  with  heron-feathers  and  precious  ftones^ 
and  lamps  burning.     Several  alcorans  are  chained  to 
it,  rlrat  the  people  may  read  them,  and  pray  for  the 
defunft's  foul  •,  and  feme  are  hired  to  do  it :  for  the 
grand  figniors  take  care  to  leave  a  fund  for  continual 
prayers  to  be  faid  for  them  after  their  death.     Near 
this  there  is  another,  where  lies' the  body  of  a  fiiltana, 
whom  Soliman  loved  extreamly ;   as  alfo  of  fultan ' 
Selim,  his  fecond  fon.     This  mofque  hath  a  mofl: 
Jovely  cloifter,   with  bagnios  and  fountains.      The 
hew  mofque,  built  by  fultan  Achmet,  is  one  of  the 
faireft  and  moft  magnificent  in  Conftantinople.     But 
the  faireft  of  all  the  mofques  are  thofe  of  fultan  Me- 
hemmer,  fultan  Selim,  and  that  which  is  called  Chah- 
zadeh  Mefdgidi,  i.  e.  The  King's  Son's  Molque,  being 
built  by  one  of  Soliman's  fons,  and  another  of  Baja- 
2et.     All  thefe  mofques  have  hofpitals  and  fchools, 
where  a  great  many  poor  fcholars  are  maintained  and 
educated. 

Moft  of  the  ancient  ftatues,  obelilks  and  pillars,  fet 
up  by  Conftantine  and  his  fucceflbrs,  are  entirely 
ruined  -,  yet  the  large  Hippodrome,  called  by  the 
Turks,  Atmeidan,  where  they  cxcrcifed  their  horfes 
in  racing,  is  ftiJl  to  be  feen.  It  is  a  large  fquare,  550 
paces  long,  and  150  broad.  In  the  midft  of  it  is  an 
obelillc,  tolerably  entire,  marked  with  hieroglyphic  let- 
ters •,  and  at  a  little  diftance  from  it,  a  pretty  high 
pillar,  made  of  large  ftones,  laid  one  upon  another 
without  cement  j  and  toward  the  end  of  it  is  a  pillar 

made 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  15 

made  of  three  brazen  ferpents  twitted  together,  the 
heads  making  the  capital.  It  was  laid  to  be  the 
Talifman  or  Spell,  railed  by  Leo  Ilauricus  the  empe- 
ror, againft  ferpents. 

The  Grand  Beziftan,  or  Exchange,  is  a  noble  build- 
ing :  it  is  a  great  round  hall,  built  of  free-ftone,  and 
furrounded  with  a  thick  wall,  by  which  arc  (hops  full 
of  the  richeft  commodities.  It  hath  feveral  gates,  which 
are  fhutfaftat  night;  and  becaufe  no  body  lies  in  it, 
is  guarded  by  feveral  watchmen,    till  it  is  opened 
again.     Each  body  of  merchants  or  tradcfmen  have 
an  apartment  by  themfelves,  and  no  man  may  fell 
the  fame  commodities  in  another  place.     There  is 
another  Beziftan,  but  neither  fo  large  nor  fo  well 
ilocked  with  goods ;   alio  feveral  Bazars,  or  public 
markets,  in  one  of  which,  called  the  Auret  Bazar,  or 
Womens  Market,  is  a  marble  pillar  of  an  extraordi- 
nary height,  called  the  Hiftorical  Column,  becaufe 
from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  which  is  147  feet,  arc 
reprefented  in  baflTa  relievo,  feveral  expeditions,   bat- 
tles, and  other  remarkable  events,  during  the  em- 
pire of  Arcadius,      It  is  much  defaced,  and  the  houfes 
fland  (b  near  to  it,  that  one  cannot  have  room  to  exa- 
mine or  find  out  the  figures  of  it :  there  are  ftairs  in 
it  to  afcend  up  to  the  top,  but  the  Turks  will  fuffer 
no  man  to  go  up  them.     [Lady  Montague  fays  this 
pillar  fell  down  about  two  years  before  (he  arrived 
there,]    In  the  quarter  of  the  janizaries,  near  the  baths 
of  Ibrahim  Balha,  in  the  court  of  a  private  man's 
houfe,  (lands  the  column  of  the  emperor  Marcian, 
It  is  all  of  (potted  marble,  about  15  feet  high,  and 
its  capital  ot  the  Corinthian  order.     On  the  top  is  a 
fquare  hollow  (lone,  adorned  with  four  eagles  ac  each 
corner.     It  is  reafonable  to  think  his  heart  was  put  in 
this  ftone,  and  his  body  buried  under  the  column. 
The  other  is  called.  The  Burnt  Pillar,  becauie  it  lias 
been  lately  burnt  by  a  fire  that  happened  near  it, 
which  has  fo  Ihit'crcd  ir,  that  ijiey  have  been  forced 
to  keep  it  tight  with  iron- bars.     It  is  compo.'cd  of 

eight 


i6        THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

eight  pieces  6f  Porphyrian  •  marble,  fo  neaf ]y  yoin^d^ 
that  they  feemed  but  one  ftone^  till  the  fire  damaged 
it,  but  now  they  arc  all  feen. 

The  grand  fignior's  fcraglios  are  alfo  remarkable 
buildings.     They  are  the  palaces  where  the  Ottoman 
princes  ordinarily  keep  their  courts.     The  wo;*d  js 
taken  from   Serrai,    which  fignifies  a  noble  hoiifc. 
There  are  two  fer.iglios  belonging  to  the  grand  Gg- 
nior,  viz.  the  Old  and  the  New,  which  latter  be  ins: 
much  the  more  noble  building,  is  called  the  Grand. 
Seraglio.    It  is  of  a  triangular  form,  two  fides  whereof 
are  encompafled  by  the  riiracian  Bofphorub,  and  the 
other  divides  it  from  the  town.    It  (lands  in  the  place 
of  the  anticnt  Byzantium.     It  is  three  miles  in  c6m- 
pafs,  and  is  enclufcd  within  a  very  ftrong  wall,  upon 
which  are  divers  wjtch- towers,  on  which  the  agliam- 
Cglams  watch,  night  and  day.     It  hath  many  gates 
both  to  the  fea  and  land-fide,  but  that  toward  the  city,' 
is  ufed  daily,  while  the  reft  are  never  opened   but 
upon  fome  fj^ecial  occafion.     This  gate  is  guarded 
day  and  night  by  the  companies  of  capoochees,  or 
porters,  under  the  command  of  t!ie  capoochce-baflias, 
or  captains  of  the  porters.     A  compa  ;y  of  janizaries 
watch  without  the  palace,  who  are  to  give  notice  of 
any  accident.     And  by  the  fea-fide,  the  agliam-og- 
lams  watch  in  towers  upon  the  wall,  and  if  any  (hip- 
ping attempt  mifchief,    they  have  ordnance   ready 
charged,  and  the  gunners  lying  clofe  by  them. 

In  this  feraglio  are  many  ftately  rooms,  fuiting  the 
feafons  of  the  year  5  the  greateft  part  whereof  arc 
built  upon  plain  ground,  and  fome  upon  the  hills  arwi 
fca-fide,  which  are  called  Kiofks,  or  banquetting- 
houfes.  Among  thefe  is  the  chamber  where  the  grand 
fignior  gives  audience  to  ambaffadors,  &c.  This  room 
Itands  in  a  court  adorned  with  deiicate  fountains,  and 
is  furnilhed  with  rich  carpets  and  crimfon  velvet  erh- 
broidcred  with  pearls,  and  the  walls  covered  with 
fine  wbit«  (tones. 

to 


TO  THE   LEVANT.  17 

To  thtfc  lodgings  of  the  fultan  belong  fair  gar- 
ticns,  with  all  Tons  of  flowers  and  tVuics,  pleal'ant 
Walks  and  marble  fountains.  I'here  :trc  alio  lodgings 
for  the  woi>ien  like  a  nunnery,  wherein  die  fultana 
ciuccn,  and  ihe  yilicr  fulianas,  and  all  the  grand  fig- 
nior's  women  Oaves  dwell.  There  arc  likewife  conve- 
nient rooms  for  the  principal  and  inferior  officers,  ail 
well  furniflicd,  among  which  arc  the  Hazineh,  or 
king's  private  treafury  and  wardrobe,  both  fliong 
buildings  with  iron  doors,  which  arc  kept  conti- 
nually fliut,  and  the  former  fealed  with  the  king's 
feal.  In  the  feraglio  arc  alio  rooms  for  prayer,  baths, 
ichooU,  butteries,  kitchens,  di [tilling- rooms,  places 
to  fwim  in,  to  run  horfes,  and  for  wreltling  and  Ihoot- 
ing  at  buts,  and,  in  a  word,  ail  oihei'  convenicncies 
for  a  prince's  palace. 

At  the  entrance  into  the  feraglio  is  a  very  large  and 
llaiciy  gate,  where  there  is  a  guard  always  Handing 
of  50  capigics.  This  leads  inco  a  very  tpacious  courc 
of  near  a  quarter  of  a  mite  fquare,  but  it  is  not 
paired.  The  ba(has,  and  other  great  men,  may  ride 
into  it  i  aad  near  ihc  gate  is  a  piazza,  tbr  the  Ihelter 
of  men  and  liorfes.  Oo  the  right  fide  of  it  is  an  huf- 
|)iul  for  all  that  fall  fivk  in  the  fciaglio,  and  an  eu- 
nuch, called  Hillcler  Agali,  looks  after  them.  On 
the  left  lidc  is^  place  where  they  keep  thetr  timber 
and  carts,  to  be  ready  for  the  icrvxc  of  the  palace  ; 
and  over  it  an  hall,  where  are  hanged  up  weapong  qf 
antiquity,  as  timitars,  javelins,  bows,  head-pieces, 
iganiieu,  Stc.  which  arc  lent  to  the  foldiers  when  the 
grand  Ugnior,  ur  chief  vificr,  makes  any  folemn  entry 
into  ConlUniinnp!c. 

After  hav.ng  pa(&d  through  this  great  court,  you 
come  to  anotlier  gate,  Icfs  than  the  former,  but  neater 
and  more  coltly ;  in  which  tnere  ts  alfo  a  lUcely 
porch,  and  a  guard  ut'capoochees.  This  leads  into 
another  court,  lels  than  the  farmer,  but  far  ntojre^  . 
beautiful  and  plcalant  i  adorned  with  fountains  and,  ,j 
walks,  rows  of  cyprcflcs  and  gcafi^plju  railed   in* 

Vot.  VI.  C  where 


•■V 


%6        THEVENO^'i  tftAVELS 

tvherethe  gazek  feed  :  it  is  near  300  paces  fqutft^ 
and  the  walks  are  paved.  In  this  court  all  mviP  ^alk 
on  foot,  except  the  grand  fignior.  On  boib  fides  of 
this  gate  is  an  open  gallery,  where  the  chiaufics,  or 
purfuivacits,  the  janizaries,  or  foot-guards,  and  fpahis, 
or  horfe-guards,  ftand  in  their  ranks,  very  well  ap-^ 
parelled,  when  any  ambafladors  enter,  or  on  other 
folemn  occalions.  In  this  court  arc  fcveral  kitchens, 
with  their  offices  and  larders,  for  the  fuhanas  and 
other  officers  of  the  court;  On  the  kft  fide  is  the 
fultan's  little  liable  for  about  35  horfes  for  his  high- 
nels*s  ufe,  and  over  it  rooms  for  their  furnitures, 
which  are  very  rich,  fct  with  jewels,  to  the  admira- 
tion of  all  beholders.  Next  the  ftable  are  rooms  for 
the  officers  of  the  divan,  or  court  of  juftice,  and  by 
them  a  chamber  where  the  divan  fits  ;  and  a  little  be-^ 
hind  that  is  the  gate  that  leads  to  the  womens  lodg- 
ings. 

At  the  end  of  this  court  is  the  royal  gate,  which 
leads  to  the  fultan*s  lodgings,  and  may  not  be  entered 
by  any  but  his  attendants.  This  gate  is  kept  by  the 
capee-aga,  or  chief  chamberlain,  and  a  company  of 
white  eunuchs.  The  court  is  paved  with  fine  marble^ 
wrought  with  mofaic  work,  and  adorned  with  curious 
fountains  ;  and  a  lake  where  the  grand  fignior  has  a 
fine  gilt  boat  for  his  recreation.  In  the  buildings, 
which  are  fumptuous,  are  a  chamber  of  audiencCj  a 
row  of  fummer-rooms  Handing  on  a  little  hiU,  and 
looking  toward  the  lea  •,  a  large  hall  (tending  on  pil- 
lars, and  opening  toward  the  eaft,  and  by  it  the  grand 
fignior's  bed-chamber,  the  walls  .of  which  are  covers 
cd  with  the  fineft  China  metal,  and  the  floors  with 
very  coftly  Perfian  carpets  of  filk  and  gold.  The 
polls  of  the  bedfted  are  filver,  the  .canopy,  bolfters, 
mattreflfes,  and  pallets,  are  all  of  cloth  of  gold.  Be- 
hind the  hall  is  a  place  to  fhoot  in,  where,  for  that 
purpofe,  are  laid  up  many  bows  and  arrows. 

The  divan  fits  four  days  in  a  week,  viz.  Saturday, 
Sunday,  Monday  and  Tuefday^  upon  which  days  the 

vizier- 


U!' 


irizicr-azcm,  or  cliief  vificr,  who  is  the  fupream  judge, 
and  reprcfcnts  the  grand  fignior,  with  all  the  reft  of 
chc  vificrs,  ihe  iwo  cadilcfchcrs,  or  judges  of  the  ar- 
mies in  Greece  and  Natolia ;  the  three  tcfccrdars,  or 
IreafurerS;  the  rcilkitaub,  or  chancellor;  the  ne- 
ihaunge  or  keeper  ot  tlic  mark,  with  their  lecrctaries 
id  clerks;  the  chiaulh-bafha  and  his  officers,  are  to 
the  divan  by  break  of  day.  AH  caules  are  de- 
termined by  the  vizier-azem,  if  he  pleafcs,  for  the 
baftjas  do  not  Ipeak,  but  only  hearken  and  attend  till 
he  refers  any  thing  to  tUclr  judgment,  as  he  often  does 
for  expedition,  rtfcrving;  the  caufcs  of  the  greateft 
cont'equence  and  imponance  to  himfclf,  as  the  caime- 
kam,  or  his  deputy,  does  alio  in  his  abfence.  The 
^jctitioncrs  fpcak  for  themlelvcs  or  defire  the  help  of 
achiaulh;  for  they  have  no  pleaders  er  attorneys. 
Whcii  the  chief  vificr  hath  heard  their  fuits,  he  con- 
fults  with  the  bafhas  and  then  refolvcs  and  deter- 
mines them  himJ'eir.  This  he  doth  ufually  after  din- 
ner, and  then  he  repairs  on  Sundays  and  Tuefdays  to 
the  chan^bcr  of  auJience,  to  give  an  account  to  his 
fublime  highnefs  of  what  buGnels  he  has  difpatched. 
.Sometimes  the  grand  fignior  will  come  privately  to  a 
liitic  wiridow,  which  is  covered  with  a  lattice,  and 
looks  into  the  divin,  to  hear  the  caulei ;  and  this 
forces  ilie  chief  vilier  to  aft  circumfpcd:ly  and  julUy 
in  managing  aSjirs,  while  he  fits  in  the  divan,  though 
at  other  limes  his  hands  arc  open  to  bribery ;  but  all 
tilings  are  difpatched  without  dt-Uy. 

When  an  ambafTador  from  any  great  prince  h  to 
kifs  the  grand  fignior*s  hand,  the  grand  viftcr  calls  a 
great  divan  of  all  the  grandees  of  the  l*ort»  and  all  the 
chiauflies,  mutafurrskas,  fpahis,  and  janizaries  arc 
ordered  by  the  captains  to  drcfs  themlelvcs  in  the  belt 
manner  they  are  able,  and  to  Itand  in  their  places  in 
the  fecond  court.  When  the  divan  is  let  in  their  or- 
der, the  chief  vifier  iends  a  chiaulh-balha  with  many 
of  hb  chiaufhca  on  horicback,  to  conduit  the  ambaj- 
lor  to  the  divan,  where  he  b  placed  dofc  to  the 
C  2  vificr  ( 


J 


40        THEVENOrs  TRAVEL5 

viOer ;  ivho  having  complimented  him  a  while,  eh^ 
terrains  him  ac  dinner,  and  then  conveys  him  to  a 
room  by  the  imperial  gate  with  his  attendants,  tiB 
the  fultan  is  ready  to  receive  him.  In  the  mean  timcy 
the  ambaffador's  prefent  is  carried  abotst  the  fecond 
court,  in  fight  of  all  the  people,  and  then  is  brought 
to  the  fultan  ;  and  the  grand  vilier  fends  the  ambafla«r 
dor  fcvcral  veils,  appointed  by  the  ancient  rule,  for 
himfelf  and  gentlemen,  to  put  on  for  that  ceremony. 

The  vefts  for  the  ambaflador  are  of  cloth  of  gold 
of  Burfa,  but  for  the  reft,  they  arc  of  little  or  no 
value  'y  yet  the  ambaflador  mult  make  a  prefent  t<> 
the  grand  fignior  of  more  than  the  worth  of  them. 
Then  the  ambalTaKJor  is  conduded  by  the  mafter  of 
the  ceremonies  to  kifs  the  fukan's  hand  (which  is, 
indeed,  but  his  hanging-fleeve ;)  which  done,  the 
druggoman,  or  incerprecer,  declares  the  ambaffador's 
commiillon ;  to  which  the  grand  fignior  makes  no 
anfwer,  for  he  difdains  to  fpeak  to  a  Chriftian ;  but 
fpeaking  to  the  chief  vifier,  refers  all  proceedings  to 
his  difcretion,  and  fo  the  am balTador  departs,  bowing 
'  his  head  to  the  fultan,  but  without  putting  off  his  hat. 
Ambafladors  of  petty  princes,  or  ftates^  though  they 
have  vefts  given  them  by  the  grand  fign'ror^  yet  come 
not  to  the  divan,  but  go  privately  with  their  prefents. 
All  ambafTadors  are  maintained  by  the  grand  fignior^ 
except  thofe  from  the  ftatcs  of  Venice,  during  their 
abode  at  the  Port  -,  but  it  is  hard  to  get  his  allowance, 
through  the  bafcnds  of  the  officers. 

All  perfons' th.it  live  in  the  feraglio,  are  the  grand 
figflior's  flaves,  as  are  alfo  all  that  are  fubjed  to  his 
C'itpire;  for  they  all  acknowledge,  that  whatever 
they  enjoy  proceeds  from  his  good-will,  and  that 
ihirir  cltatcs  and  lives  are  abl'olutcly  at  his  difpofal. 

There  are  in  the  UiUan's  court  about  i  ?.oo  women, 
old  and  young.  I'hc  fuiran's  coiKubines  are  all 
young  virgins,  ftolen  from  foreign  nations,  inftrucled 
in  dancing,-  mulic,  finging,  and  curii^us  fcwing;  and 
Jt:z  given  to  ihe  g  ujid  lignior  as  prefents,  by  the  Tar- 
tars, 


TO  TH£  LEVANT.  afi^ 

tars,  baflias,  and  other  great  men:  fo  that  their  nofflW^i 
bcr  is  uncertain.  Thefe  virgins,  immediarely  upon"' 
their  coming  into  the  leragiio,  are  made  Turlcs,  by 
ufing  (his  ceremony  :  they  are  to  hold  i!p  their  finger, 
and  fay  thefe  woiiis,  "  There  is  no  god  but  Goci 
alone  ;  and  Mahomet  is  the  mellenger  ot  God  :"  and 
then  being  examined  by  an  old  woman,  called  Ka- 
hiyah  Cadun,  i.  e.  the  Mother  of  the  Maids,  they 
are  placed  in  a  room  wiih  iheir  equals  in  age  and  dit- 
poGtion.  All  the  women  live  like  nuns,  but  Jiavc 
large  apartments  to  dwell  in.  Their  beds  are  coarfe 
and  hard,  made  of  flocks  ;  and  by  every  tenth  vir- 
gin lies  an  old  wonian,  and  thete  are  lamps  always 
burning  by  them.  Near  their  apartments  ihey  have 
baths  and  fountains  for  their  ufc  ;  and,  above  their 
bcd-cliambers,  places  to  fit  and  few  in.  They  dine 
in  companies,  and  are  waited  upon  by  other  wunien-, 
wanting  nothing  that  is  neceflary.  There  are  alio 
fchools  for  fuch  ai  will  learn  to  read  or  Ipeak  the  Tur- 
kiHi  tongue,  work  or  play ;  and  fome  hours  are  al- 
lowed ihcm  for  walking  and  recreations.  =  •■ 
[  Lady  Montague,  when  at  Conftantlnople,  fay»^'»- 
fiie  went  lo  fee  the  fukana  Hafiten,  favourite  of  the 
Igte  fultan  Muitapha,  who  was  depofcd  by  his  bro- 
thrr,  the  ihco  rctgning  emperor. — "  The  fultana, 
fays  fij!,-,  fceowd  in  a  very  good  humour,  and  talked 
to  me  with  the  iitmoft  civility.  1  did  not  omit  this 
oppmruniiy  of  learning  all  that  I  pofTibly  could  of 
the  IcrjgUo,  which  is  lb  entirely  unknown  amongft 
OS.  She  allured  me  that  the  itory  of  the  fultan'i 
throwing  a  handkerchief,  is  altogether  fabukius  ;  and 
ihe  manner,  upon  that  occafion,  no  other  than  tiiis  : 
He  lend*  tiic  kyflar  aga,  to  lignjty  to  the  lady  the 
honour  be  intends  her.  She  is  immediately  compli- 
oienied  upon  it  by  the  otheis,  ind  led  to  the  baih, 
where  3ie  is  perfumed  and  drcflcd  in  the  n;ift  mag- 
nificent and  becoming  manner.  The  emperor  pre. 
fcdei  his  vific  by  a  royal  prcfcor,  and  then  ctme*  tni6~- 
bw^panincitf:  neither  is  there  any  fuch  thing  as  her 
C  3                         t"*^- 


22        THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

creeping  m  at  the  bed's  foot.  She  I'lid,  that  the  ficft 
he  made  choice  of,  was  always  after  the  firll  in  rank, 
and  not  the  mother  of  the  eldeft  fon,  as  other  writers 
would  make  ns  believe.  Sometimes  the  fultan  di- 
verts himl llf  in  the  company  of  all  his  ladies,  who 
(land  in  a  circle  round  him.  And  Iho  confcfled,  they 
were  ready  to  die  with  envy  and  jealnufy  of  the  happy 
fhe,  that  he  diltinguiflicJ  by  rjiy  appearance  of  pre- 
ference."] 

If  any  one  cr^nccivc^  ^.y  the  fulran,  and  brings  him 
forth  his  firll  begotten  child,  (he  is  called  Sultana 
Queen  ;  and  if  it  be  a  Ton,  fhc  is  conlirmcd  and 
citablilhed  by  great  fcafts  and  lolcmnities,  and  thence- 
forward has  ^n  apartment,  fer\'?n!s,  and  a  large  re- 
venue appointed  her ;  and  all  pen^ns  in  the  feraglio 
muft  pay  her  the  rcfptc  t  of  a  queen.  The  other  wo- 
men that  bc.ir  !:i;ii  children  arc  called  Sultanas,  but 
not  Queens  ;  yet  live  in  Jcparate  ap:\rt«:enrs,  ;:re  well 
fervcd  and  aticnde  J,  and  have  no  want  cii!:er  of  mo- 
ney or  appnrc!,  according  to  their  degree.  But  if  it 
happens  tiiat  die  nnl-begottcn  fun  of  the  queen,  heir 
to  the  cirpire,  dies,  and  another  of  the  fultanas  have 
a  Ion  to  fiicceed  the  dcccafcd  heir,  the  former  is  de- 
prived of  her  revenue  ar.d  royjity,  but  remains  a 
fulrann,  and  the  latter  bcconies  queen:  and  fo"the 
tirL*  rii.'is  from  one  fultnna  to  another  by  viitue  of  the 
fon's  right  to  the  fucccflion. 

In  times  p.:ft  the  grand  fignior  v.ms  married  to  the 
queen,  but  now  flue  paflVs  v/ithout  celebrating  any 
nuptial  rites  ;  yet  the  ir.othcr  or'  t!ie  heir^njoys  all 
the  prerogatives  of  a  qui  en,  and  iias  a  guard  of  ^d 
or  40  black  eunuchs,  under  the  command  of  the 
kizlar-aga,  their  matter,  to  be  employed  on  her  oc- 
cafions.  The  fultanas  never  go  out  of  the  feraglio 
but  in  the  fulrar.'s  company,  and  arc  never  fetn  by 
any  but  '"-:h  as  attend  them,  who  are  black  eunuchs, 
that  have  undergone  a  toti-1  amputation  of  every  ex- 
ternal diiiindion  of  icx. 

The 


^^^^^^^^j^^j^jT^ 


.TMA  VT.I  iiin 

itiii\  i,nr)  -<^}  ifi.  jI'' 
>^Tl(fl  art!    J'\Mipen  ii--' 

•ffai's  »    -.i-Mi  v.  .1 


1  II,  ..ff 


*-rtT.<»".>l 


TO  THE   LEVANT.  23 

■  The  grand  fignior'a  daughters,  fifters  and  aunts, 
Ji;ve  their  lodgings  alfo  in  the  fame  feraglio,  until 
luch  time  as,  at  their  requclT:,  the  fultan  Ihall  be 
picalcrd  to  give  them  in  marriage  ;  and  then  they  come 
forth,  and  carry  each  ot"  them  a  cheft  along  with 
them,  which  the  grand  fignior  gives  them  full  of  rich 
apparel,  jewels,  and  money,  to  the  value  of  about 
thirty  ihoufand  pounds  fterling,  bcfide  what  they 
may  have  hoarded  for  themfclves  before.  If  the 
grand  fignior  be  dilpofed  to  deal  gencroufly  with 
them,  they  are  futiercd  to  carry  with  them  twenty 
women  Oaves,  and  at  many  eunuchs,  and  he  conti- 
nues their  allowance  of  a  thoufand  or  fifteen  hundred 
,3lpers  a" day,  which  they  had  in  thclcraglio,  and  fur- 
nilhcs  their  houfes;  and  if  the  hufband  of  fuch  a 
lady  has  not  an  houle  fit  for  her,  the  fultan  gives  hei 
one  of  his  own.  As  for  the  hufband,  he  is  to  make 
her  a  bill  of  dowry  of  at  leaft  100,000  checquins  in 
money,  befide  vefts,  jewels,  and  other  ornaments, 
which  amount  to  a  great  fum.  Being  married,  they 
converfc  with  men  no  more  than  they  did  before,  ex- 
cept their  hufbands  -,  but  only  with  women,  vifiting 
their  old  acquaintance  in  the  fera^lio,  but  not  with- 
out the  grand  fignior's  leave.  The  I'ultanas  thus  mar- 
ried, arc  for  the  moll  part  their  hufband's  miftrcflcs  : 
command  them  as  they  pleafc,  wearing  an  hanjar,  or 
dagger,  in  token  of  their  power  over  them,  and 
forHctimes  they  will  put  them  away  and  take  others  j 
and  fuch  a  divorce  commonly  proves  the  death  of  the 
huiband. 

The  other  women  either  grow  old  in  the  feraglio, 
and  lo  arc  made  miftrcfits  ot  the  young  ones  ;'  or  arc 

It  into  the  old  feraglio,  which  they  account  their 

"  fortune,  becaufc  trom  thence  they  may  be  mar- 
,  with  the  confent  of  the  miftrcls  -,    and  carry 

ray  the  riches  they  ha^  got,  which  is  very  confi- 

derable,  partly  by  faving  out  of  the  fultan's  allo\v- 

ance,   and  bv   thcprcfcnts  made  ihcm  upon  ihcir 

I,  and  by  the  biflias  wives.     Hither  alfo,  after 

C  4  tho 


and 

■K.; 

'  dcra 

ancc_ 


«4        THEVENOTrs  TRAVELS 

the  fultan's  death,  are  all  the  fultanas  fent,  except 
the  fultana  queen ;  and  if  they  arc  weialthy,  th*y 
marry  to  men  of  reafonablc  qualit)%  yet  with  thcf 
good  will  of  the  miftrefs,  and  confcnt  of  the  grand 
fignior.  The  women  of  the  fcraglio  arc  puniflied 
for  their  faults  very  fcverely,  and  arc  fbundly  bear  by 
their  overJ'eers :  and  if  they  prove  difobedienc  and 
incorrigible,  they  are,  by  the  lultan's  order,  fent  into 
the  old  feraglio,  and  the  bcft  part- of  what  they  have 
taken  from  them.  But  if  they  arc  found  guilty  of 
whoredom,  or  any  other  great  crime,  they  are  bound 
hand  and  foot,  and  being  put  into  a  fack,  are  in  the 
night  caft  into  the  fea. 

The  feraglio  may  be  properly  termed  the  fcminary 
or  nurfery  of  the  bed  fubjefts ;  for  in  it  all  have 
their  education,  who  afterward  become  the  principal 
officers  or  fubordinate  rulers  of  the  ftatc  and  afiain 
of  the  empire  -,  and  thefc  are  they  which  are  called 
the  Agliam-Oglans,  i.  e.  une?epert  and  untutored 
youths:  There  arc  ordinarily  about  6  or  700  of  chem» 
from  12  to  25  or  30  years  of  age ;  being  all  chriftian 
children,  gathered  up  every  three  years  in  the  Morea 
and  throughout  all  the  parts  of  Albania.  They  are 
taken  from  fuch  families  as  are  fuppofed  to  be  of  the 
beft  (pint  and  moft  warlike  difpofition ;  and  as  Toon 
as  they  are  brought  Into  the  feraglio,  they  arc  circum- 
tifed  and  made  Turks.  They  are  at  firft  put  to  very 
bafe  and  flavifh  employments,  fuch  as  to  ferve  in  the 
ftables,  kitchens  and  gardens,  digging  arid  cleaving 
wood,  and  arc  made  to  row  in  faicks  or  barges,  and 
to  lead  the  greyhounds  to  courfing,  or  whatever  elfe 
they  are  commanded  to  do  by  the  oda-baftias,  or  cap- 
tains.  They  are  allowed  from  two  to  five  afpers  a 
day  •,  but  afterward,  fuch  as  have  a  delire  to  learn, 
arc  taught  to  read  and  write,  and  generally  all  of 
them  are  taught  to  wreftle,  leap,  run,  throw  the 
jron-bar,  Ihoot  the  bow,  difcharge  a  piece,  and  all 
Other  cxercifes  becoming  a  Turkiih  foldier. 

The 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


>5 


The  grand  Cgnior  makes  ufe  of  ihem,  when  he 
intends  a  journey  to  any  place,  for  pitching  his  tents, 
rf  moving  or  carrying  his  chcfts,  and  fuch  lilce  ferviccs; 
ibr  which  employment  he  never  takes  with  him  lefs 
than  3  or  400  of  them.  The  bofVangee-biflia  always 
takes  with  him  a  good  number  of  them,  when  by  the 
lultan's  order  he  puts  feme  great  man  to  death,  which 
is  commonly  done  by  the  hands  of  thefe  agliam-og- 
lans.  They  arc  capable  of  being  made  ftewards  to 
the  boftangee-bafha,  and  may  rife  to  that  great  of- 
fice, which  is  an  eminent  place;  for  he  hath  the 
keeping  of  all  the  grand  fignior's  gardens  and  houfci, 
fleers  the  fultan's  faick,  and  wears  a  lurbant  in  the 
feraglio :  and  if  he  be  in  favour,  he  is  preferred  to 
higher  dignities,  viz.  to  be  captain-bafha,  bafha  of 
Cairo,  Damaicus,  Aleppo,  &c.  and  fometimcs  he 
comes  to  be  vizicr-azem,  or  prime-miniftcr. 

There  arc  other  youths  educated  in  the  feraglio, 
called  Ichoglans,  but  in  a  far  better  manner  than 
the  former.  They  arc  brought  up  in  learning,  in 
(he  knovvicdge  of  the  law  and  military  cxcrcifes  for 
the  fultan's  aqd  their  country's  fervicc;  and  to  un- 
dcrftand  thofc  things  which  belong  to  the  govern- 
fiicnt  of  the  whole  empire.  By  the  ancient  infliiu- 
lion  they  Diould  be  always  made  of  chrirtian  renc- 
gados,  and  captives  of  the  noblell  that  can  be  found  j 
but  the  capcc-aga,  or  chief  chamberlain,  brings  in 
ibnie  natural-born  Turks,  of  the  bell  afpe<fls,  and 
who  proHiife  well,  but  with  the  fultan's  confcnt.  The 
number  of  them  is  uocertain  •,  but  it  is  faid,  they  are 
commonly  about  100.  As  Toon  as  they  come  into  the 
Icraglio,  they  are  exceedingly  well  inftnictcd,  and 
daily  taught,  as  well  polite  bcliaviour,  as  the  rites 
and  ceremonies  of  the  Mahometan  law,  and  what- 
foever  may  tend  to  the  improvement  of  their  minds. 
Out  of  the  young  men  thus  pcrtlrdcd  and  compleat- 
cd  in  thctr  educatioq,  the  king  chulcs  his  agas  and 
bafiias. 


i6        THEVENOTs  TRAVELS 

Indie  feraglio  there  are  likcvife  oiher- miniflrr^ 
for  ncceflary  fervices;  as  alio  buffoons,  tumblers,' 
muficians,  wrcftlers,  and  mytes.  Thcfc  laft  arc  in 
great  tcquelV,  bccaufe  the  grand  fignior  thinks  it  be- 
low his  dignity  to  fpeak  to  any  about  him  famih'arly, 
and  theretorc  he  makes  himfcif  nieny  with  thcfe  mutes, 
who,  though  deaf  and  dumb,  will  reafon  and  difcourfe 
.of  any  thing  by  nods  and  figns,  as  other  people  do 
by  words  i  nay,  many  of  them  can  write  very  fai- 
fibiy  and  well,  which  is  admirable. 

There  are  alfo  while  eunuchs,  who  attend  the 
grand  fignior  at  his  gate.  1  he  chief  of  them  is  the 
eapec-aga,  or  chamberiain,  wHo  i<^  in  greatell  autho- 
rity with  the  grand  (ignior ;  for  he  alone  is  allowed 
CO  fpeak  wiih  him,  and  prefenc  all  petitions,  meffages, 
and  writings,  and  accompanies  the  fultan  wherevcp 
he  goes.  His  faiary  is  eight  {ultanas  a  day,  i.  e.  about 
ihite  pounds  fterling,  befide  prefents  from  all  that 
have  any  bufmefs  with  the  fultan.  They  are  brought 
up  with  the  ichoghns,  and  are  taken  from  the  fourth 
pda  to  fcrve  the  grand  Ggnior,  who  employj  them  in 
the  governracnt  of  his  other  feragiios,  and  his  femi- 
naries  of  youth  at  Conllantinopk,  Adrianople,  and 
other  places;  makes  ihtm  bafhas  of  Cairo,  Aleppo, 
and  other  cities,  and  fonietimes  vifiers  of  the  bench. 
Xhey  are  alfo  trufted  by  the  capec-aga  to  keep  the 
king's  curiofiiies  and  valuable  rarities.  They  are,  ge- 
nerally fpeakixig,  not  of  much  courage,  yet  they  arc 
accoLintal  of  great  judgment  and  fidelity. 
■  The  black  eunuchs  ;ind  black  Moor  wenches  ferve  ■ 
the  fultanas  and  the  reft  of  the  queen's  women.  Thefc 
eunuchs,  while  they  are  boys,  are  brought  upas  the 
white  ones  are,  and  after  are  let  to  fcrve  and  wait  at 
the  fulun's  gate,  under  the  command  of  the  kiflar- 
aga.  They  are  allowed  a  penfion  of  fifty  or  fixty  af- 
pers  a  day,  and  iwo'vcfts,  with  linen  and  other  necef* 
£iries  yearly,  befide  prefents  given  them  by  fuch  wo- 
men as  come  to  vifit  t!ie  grand  fjgnior's  women.  They 
^  ,  arc  . 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


ai^  never  fenr  abroad  on  any  employmcnr,  but  f-rvc 
for  ever  in  the  feraglio.  Thcjr  are  called  by  rlie  names 
pf'flowcrs,  as  Role,  N'arciflus,  &c.  Their  bufineifs  is 
to  carry  mclfageS  and  notes  from  the  fultanas  to  the 
Cflpec-aga,  to  oe  delivered  to  the  fiiltan  j  and  attend 
upbn  the  ladies  in  fickncfs  and  health.    ' 

The  grand  fignior'fi  fons  by  the  queen,  arc  brought 
up  by  thcmlelves,  by  choice  nurfcs,  which  are  found 
out  of  the  I'eraglio-,  and  if  he  has  fons  by  other  ful- 
anasi  they  are  bionght  up  by  themrelves,  but  may 
dlny  with  them  til!  they  arc  fix  or  I'evcn  years  old. 
They  live  wiih  the  women  nine  or  ten  years,  and 
about  fourteen  are  circumcifed  with  great  pomp,  as 
weddings  are  kept  anKjngChriftians.  The  Tons,  from 
five  to  ten  years  of  age,  are  taught  to  write  and  trad 
by  an  hojah,  or  IchoulmaOcr-,  who,  for  that  end.  Is 
admitted  into  the  women's  apartment  for  certain 
hours,  but  fees  them  not,  unlefs  two  or  rhrec  old 
ugly  black  Moorifh  women  :  but  daughters  an:  little 
regarded.  When  the  Ihawhzawdeh,  or  f'lilran's  fon, 
who  is  heir  to  the  crown,  is  circumcilcd,  he  is  fome- 
timcs  fenc  abroad  with  a  fiiitablc:  equipage,  and  umler 
the  care  of  his  principal  ard  truHy  eunuchs,  to  be 
governor  of  Magnefia,  and  the  provinces  about  It, 
but  as  deput)'  to  his  father.  The  eunuch  is  bound 
to  give  continoal  advice  to  the  grand  fignior  of  his 
Ion's  dcponment;  To  that  iFlie  iranfgrcfs  the  limits  t)f 
his  commilTion  in  the  Icaft,  he  quickly  fails  inttt  dif- 
grace,  and  into  a  fufpicion  of  PcbelliDn. 

I  The  old  firraglio  was  built  by  Mahomet  the  lecond, 
*n  he  took  Conftantinople,  to  be  his  c^vn-pal-ice. 
is  a  large  place,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in 
lipafi,  and  feaied  in  the  noblefl  part  of  the  citv. 
B  environed  with  an  high  wall,    and  tht:  buildings 
fvery  fjir.     It  hath  but  one  gate  belonging  to  it, 
9  thit  is  of  iron»  which  is  kept  by  a  guard  ot  white 
eunuchs.    The  inhabttams  crt' it  arc  all  women  and 
eunuchs.     The  women  art  only  fuch  as  have  been 
out  of  the  fultan's  Icraglio,  viz.  the  fulttmas  of 


£ 


48        THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

thedeccafed  grand  (igniors,  fiich  as  arc  fallen  intodiA 
grace  wkh  the  "fultan  for  their  ill  conditions  or  rude 
behaviour,  or  fuch  as  arc  infirm  or  (iefeftive  in  fome* . 
thing  that  (hoyld  fir  them  for  the  fulun's  bed.  They 
afc  governed  by  an  old  woman,  called  Kahiya-cadum,. 
i,  e,  the  Woman-ovcrfccr ;  who  is  to  take  care  thu 
they  have  all  things  neccflary  for  them,  according  to 
the  cuftom  of  the  houfc.  The  fultanas  have  lodging* 
apart,  and  are  reafonably  well  ferved,  though  Hr 
fuort  of  what  ihey  had  in  the  fultan's  feraglio.  If 
they  arc  rich  when  fcnt  thither,  they  take  care  to 
Hiake  it  known,  and  that  procures  them  a  good  huf- 
band  and  jointure.  The  fultan  will  fomctimcs  go 
thither  to  vific  hi?  grandmother,  fifter,  or  pthcr  rcfi- 
tions,  or  when  he  is  melancholy, 

There  arc  other  feraglios  in  Conftandnople,  vhich 
belong  to  private  perfons,  but  built  with  an  tigly  ap- 
pearance for  fear  of  giving  |ealoufy  to  the  grand  fig- 
nior  i  though  within  the  walls,  which  arc  high,  there 
are  very  beautiful  apartmentSj  horned  vfith  gold  and 
azure,  and  the  floor?  covered  with  fijie  parpcts,  flic 
walls  faced  with  fine  files  like  china,  In  the  halls 
and  chambers  they  have  a  rifing  about  a  foot  higher 
than  the  floor,  which  thcyc^ll  a  divan,  covered  with 
richer  carpets  than  thp  refl;of  the  room,  and  cmbroj- 
dercd  cumionB  ftt  again(l  the  wall.  Here  they  reft, 
receive  vifits,  and  fpend  moft  of  the  day.  There  are 
alfo  many  great  buildings  in  the  city  like  monafteries, 
which  they  call  Hans,  with  galleries  and  chambers, 
where  merchants  have  lodgings  and  warehoi}fes  at  eafy 
rates  viz.  one  op  two  afpcrs  a  day.  They  bring  in 
8  great  revenue  to  the  owners.  They  are  built  of 
free-llonc  round  a  court,  which  has  generally  a  foun- 
tain in  it.  The  walls,  arc  ftrong  and  well  tarred  tq 
Iccure  the  goods  ;  thefaireft  of  them  in  Conftanti- 
noplc  is  ihc  Valida,  built  by  the  grand  fignior's  mo- 
ther. The  houfcs  of  Conftantinople  are  all  of  wood, 
very  indifferently  builr,  andvery  fubjefl:  to  fires,  from 
tlieir  taking  much  tobacco.    The  ftreets  are  crooked 

■  •  *^ 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


a? 


■ond  narrow,  flandlng  alio  iip  ami  down  hill. 
Caravanferas  are  buili  as  the  Hans,  but  are  uled  on! 
to  lodge  poor  travellers,  and  the  fervanis  of  the  c 
van,  who  have  rooms  there  for  little  or  nothing. 

Galaca  is  the  fuburb  of  ConHantlnople,  fcparaied.r 
by  the  port  only,  in  which  there  are  I'aiks,  or  fmali 
boai«,  and  wherries,  to  carry  you  at  all  times  for  a 
fmall  mancr.     You  may  go  by  land,  but  it  is  a  little 
about,  and  you  pafs  by  tlie  Atna^an,  or  field  where  . 
the  Turks  cxercile  their  archery,  and  go  in  proceliion  ,  i 
to  make  prayers  to  God  for  the  fuccels  of  their  arms,    . 
and  whatever  clfe  they  want.     Galaca  is  a  tolerably 
large  place;  the  boufes  are  goud  and  well  built.  Many 
Greeks  live  there  j    and  die  Franks,   who  cohabit 
with  them,  havefive  monallcrics  and  as  many  churches^  _ 
Jc  has  a  large  tower  in  it,  and  by  the  fca-fidc  t!ieSne^| 
fiflimarket  in  the  world,  where  there  is  great  plcn^yj 
of  all  forts  of  fifh  to  be  had  cheap.    The  Greek*- 
keep  here  a  great  many  taverns,  which  draw  the 
Turks  from  Conftaniinople  thither,   who  arc  very 
inlblcnt  in  their  drink,  and  dangerous  then  to  be  met 
with  i  fo  Uiat  this  is  one  of  the  greatelt  inconvenien- 
cies  in  Conftantinoplc, 

Cajrumpafha,  a  great  village,  where  is  the  arfcn^L. 
for  building  galleys,  maoncs  and  Oxips,  has  1 20  dock 
and  a  magazine  of  arms  for  6o,oco  men  j  but  it  i>  i 
accefTible  to  Chriftians.     In  it  are,  bcfide  ihcCapcH 
dan-bafhls,  or  admiral's  lodging,  a  fpacious  bagnl 
for  the  grand  fignior's  (laves,  of  whom  tlKfc  ap 
many  thoufands,    and    live  very  mifer;*biy.      Tin, 
town  is  divided  from  Galata  only  by  tlu;  burying 
places.  n 

Beyond  Galata  lies  Pcra,  a  large  borough,  whid 
is  fcparaccd  only  by  buryin;j-places.  In  this  to-'vn  re- 
Cde  the  ambalTadors  trum  Chrillian  prinses;  lot  i.-.e 
emperor's,  king  of  Poland's,  and  the  rviHibik.  of 
Ragufa's  only,  may  rcfidc  at  Conft;intino|)k.  Tiie 
houfes  arc  high  and  handfome,  being  inhabited  onl/ 

r_Crcctu.(^^gujdkj,     Over  j^j^intt  the  r.rJ;j1)o,  on 

t}*C 


30       THEVENOrs  TRAVELS 

the  riglit-nd?,  ftands  the  Tophana,  i.  e.  rhe  plat^ 
whtTC  ail  the  guns  and  artillery  are  caft,  and  it  gives 
the  name  to  all  the  quaner.  The  houles  -of  thefe 
three  places  ftand  Ibme  higher  and  fome  lower,  like 
an  amphitheatre,  and  form  a  pleafant  profpedl  fyoia 
the  pon  or  fea. 

[The  following  remarks  on Conftantinoplearc-takdit 

from  Lady  Montague. ■**  *Tis  certain,  there  are 

many  people  that  pafs  years  here  in  Pera,  without 
having  ever  fecn  Conftantinople,  and  yet  they  all  pre> 
tend  to  dclcribe  it.  Fera,  Tophana,  and  GaUla, 
wholly  inhabired  by  French  Chriltians  (and  which, 
together,  make  the  appearance  of  a"very  fine  town) 
are  divi^led  from  it  by  the  fea,  which  is  not  above 
half  fo  broad  as  the  broadeft  part  of  the  Thames : 
but  the  ChrJdian  men  are  loath  to  hazard  the  adnn- 
cures  they  fometimes  meet  with  amongft  thi*  levents« 
or  feamen  (worfe  nnonfters  than  our  watermen)  and 
the  women  muft  cover  their  faces  to  go  there,  which 
they  have  a  perteft  averfion  to  do.  'Tis  true,  they 
wear  veils  in  Pera,  but  ihcy  arc  fuch  as  only  ferve  to 
Ihew  their  beauty  to  more  advantage,  and  would  not 
be  pcrmicted  in  Conftantinople,  Thefe  rcafons  deter 
almoft  every  creature  from  feeing  it ;  and  the  French 
ambafiadrels  will  return  to  France  (I  believe)  without 
ever  hawing  been  there.  You'll  wonder,  Madam,  to 
hear  mc  add,  that  1  have  been  there  very  often.  The 
afniack,  or  Turkilh  veil,  is  become  not  only  very 
eaiy,  but  agreeable  to  me  }  and  if  it  was  not,  I  would 
be  content  to  endure  fome  inconvtniency  to  gratify  a 
palHon  that  is  become  fo  powerful  with  me,  as  curi- 
■oi:[y.  And  inJced,  the  pleaiurc  of  going  in  a  barge 
to  Chelle;!,  is  not  comparable  to  that  of  rowing  upoir 
the  canal  of  the. lea  here,  where  tor  20  miles  together 
down  the  Bofphorus,  the  moft  beautiful  variety  of 
prt.(fi>ci5ts  prefent  the;n!blves.  The  Afian  fide  is  co- 
vered with  fruit  tree;,  villages,  and  the  molt  delight- 
ful ),ind!kips  in  nature ;  on  the  Luropean,  Jdands 
t.onllaniiiioplc,  fkuatcdon  feven  bills,— The  unequal 
heights 


To  THE  LEVANT. 


S> 


^ 


heights  make  it  fcetri  as  large  again  as  it  is  (though 
one  of  tlie  largtlt  cities  in  the  world)  fiicwing  an 
agreeable  nnixture  of  gardens,  pine  and  cyprefs  trees, 
palaces,  mofqucs,  ami  public  buildings,  railed  one 
above  another,  with  much  beauiy.  I  have  taken  care 
to  fee  as  inucli  of  the  I'craglio  as  is  to  be  fecn.  1e  is 
on  a  point  of  land  running  into  the  fea^  a  palace  of 
prodigious  extent,  but  very  irregular.  The  gardent 
take  in  a  large  compafs  of  ground,  full  of  high  cy- 
prcls-trces,  which  is  all  I  know  of  them.  The  build< 
tngs  arc  all  of  white  ftone,  headed  on  top,  with  gild* 
ed  turrets  and  fpire*:,  which  look  very  magnificent  j 
and  indeed,  I  believe  there  is  no  Chriftian  king's  pa- 
lace half  fo  large.  There  are  fix  large  courts  in  it, 
all  built  round  and  fct  with  trees^  having  galleries 
of  ftone  1  one  of  thole  for  the  guard,  another  for 
the  Haves,  another  fur  (he  officers  of  tlie  kitchen, 
another  for  the  ftabics,  the  fifth  for  the  divan,  and 
the  fixth  for  the  apartment  deftined  far  audiences. 
On  the  ladies  fide  thtre  are,  at  lealt,  as  many  more, 
with  diftin^  courts  belonging  to  their  eunuchs  and 
attendants,  their  kitchens,  &c.  ( 

*'  The  next  remarkable  ftrufture  is  that  of  St.  So- 
phia, which  'tis  very  difficult  to  fee.  I  was  forced  to 
lirnd  three  times  to  the  caimairan,  (the  governor  of 
tlie  town)  and  he  affemblcd  the  chief  ctTendis,  or 
heads  of  the  law,  and  enquired  of  the  mufti,  wheihcr 
it  was  lawful  to  permit  it.  They  paflcd  fomc  days 
in  this  important  debate;  but,  1  infifting  on  my  re- 
queft,  pcrmilFion  was  granted.  1  can't  be  informed 
why  the  Turks  are  more  delicate  on  the  fubje£l  of 
ihis  mofqur,  than  any  of  the  others,  where,  what 
Chriftian  pleafcs  may  enter  without  l<;ruple.  I  fancy 
ihcy  imagine  that,  having  been  once  confecratcd, 
people,  on  pretence  of  curiofity,  might  prophane  it 
with  prayers,  particularly  to  tholi;  faints,  who  arc  ftiU 
very  vifible  in  moljic  work,  and  no  oiher  way  de- 
faced but  by  ihc  decays  of  time  ■,  for  it  is.abfoluicl/ 
thoygh  fo  univcrially  afrertcd,  that  the  Turks 
•  defaced 


si  THEVENOr*  TRAVETLS 
4ehced  all  die  images  that  they  found  in  die  city.' 
The  dome  of  Sl  Sophia  is  laid  to  be  113  £:^  (^141, 
meter,  built  upon  arches,  fullained  by  vaft  pillars  of^ 
■narble;  the  pavement  and  ftair-cafc  niarble.  There  ara' 
two  rows  of  galleries  fupported  with  pillars  of  parti-co^^ 
loured  marble,  and  the  whole  roof  mofaic  work,  pare 
crf'which  decays  very  faft,  and  dro[A  do4n.  They  pre-' 
iented  mc  a  handful  of  it  i  the  compofition  fcems  co 
me  a  fort  of  ^ais,  or  that  pafte  with'  which  they  make 
counterfeit  jewels.  They  fticw  here  the  tomb  of  the 
emperor  Conftantine,  for  which  they  have  a  great 
veneration. 

"  This  is  a  dull  imperfcA  defcription  of  this  cele- 
brated building  i  but  I  imderftand  architecture  fo 
little,  that  I  am  afr^  of  talking  nonfenfp  in  .endea- 
vouring to  fpeak  of  it,  particularly.  Perhaps  I  am  in 
the  wrongi  but  feme  Turkifh  mofques  pleafe  ma 
better.  That  of  SultAn  S<^yman  is  an  cxuSt  Iquarr,' 
with  four  Bne  towers  in  the  angles ;  m  the  midlt  is  a' 
noble  cupola,  fupporKd  with  beautiful  marble  piU 
lars  i  two  Iclier  at  the  ends,  fupported  in  the  fame 
manner ;  the  pavement  and  gallery  round  the  molque, 
of  marble :  under  the  great  cupola  is  a  fountain 
adorned  with  fuch  fine  coloured  pillars,  that  I  can 
hardly  think  them  natural  marble ;  on  one  fide  is  the 
pulpit  of  white  marble,  and  on  the  other  the  httle 
gallery  for  the  grand  fignior.  A  fine  ftair-cafc  leads 
to  it,  and  It  is  built  up  with  gilded  lattices.  At  the 
upper  end  is  a  fort  of  altar,  where  the  name  of  God 
is  written-,  and,  before  it,  ftand  two  candle  flicks,  as 
high  as  a  man,  with  wax-candles  as  thick  as  three 
Aambeaux.  The  pavement  is  fpread  with  line  car- 
pets, and  the  molque  illuminated  with  a  vaft  num- 
ber  of  lamps.  The  court  leading  to  it  is  very  fpa- 
cious,  with  galleries  of  marble  of  green  .columns,' 
covered  with  a  8  leaded  cupolas  on  two  fides,  and  a' 
fine  fountain  of  bafons  in  the  midit  of  it. 

"  This  defcription  may  ferve  foP  all  the  mofques  la' 
Conftantinople.  The  model  is  ezaAly  the  fame,  ar\d 
tixy  oofy  differ  in  largencfs  and  rit^hncTs  cf  maicrials. 

That 


w 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


fr-z 


Thlt  of  the  Sultana  Valida  is  th^  largtft  of  all,  buittdb 
cntiirly  of  marble,  the  moft  prodigious,  andldiinkT 
the  molt  beautiful  (trufture  1  ever  faw,  be  it  fpokfeic 
to  the  honour  of  our  fcx,  for  it  wa^  founded  by  thaa 
mother  of  Mahomet  the  fourth.     Between  frien(is^.v • 
Paul's  church  would  nnake  a  pitiful  figure  near  it  i  as 
any  of  our  iquarcs  would  do,  near  the  Aderdan,  or 
place  of  horfcs,  (at  fignifying  a  horle  in  Turkilh.) 
This  was  the  Hippodrome,  in  the  reign  of  the  Greek 
emperors." 

l,ady  Montague  adds  the  following  sccount  of  the 

Turkiih  houfes. "  I  fuppofe  you   have  read  in 

moft  of  our  accounts  of  Turkey,  that  their  lioiifes 
arc  the  moll  mifcrable  pieces  of  building  in  the  world. 
I  can  fpcak  very  learnedly  on  that  lubjed,  having 
been  in  (b  many  of  them  ;  and  I  aflure  you,  it  is  no 
fuch  thing.    We  are  now  lodged  in  a  palace,  belong- 
ing to  the  grand  fignior.     I  really  think  the  manner 
of  building  here  very  agreeable,  and  proper  for  the 
country,     it  is  true,  they  are  not,  at  all,  foliciroui 
iQ  beautify  the  ouclidesof  their  houfc-s,  and  thty  are 
generally  built  of  wood,  which,  I  own,  h  ihc  caulc 
of  many  inconvenicncies ;  but  this  is  not  to  bt:  charg- 
ed on  the  ill  tafte  of  die  people,  but  on  the  opprefi 
fion  of  the  government.     Every  houli:,  at  the  dearly  . 
of  it^  mailer,  is  at  ihc  grand  fignior's  difpuiiil ;  and  < 
therefore  no  man  carcj  to  make  a  great  expcncej  " 
which  he  is  not  lure  iiis  family  will  b:  the  better  tbit  t 
All  their  delign  is  to  build  a  houlc  commodious,  and, 
that  will  la(t  their  lives  ;  and  they  arc  very  inditfcreac  , 
if  it  falls  down  the  year  tifier.     Every  houf-,  grrat  i 
and  fmall,  is  divided  mto  two  diflindl  part^ti  whid^  ; 
only  join  together  by  a  namnv  pai&ge.     The,  firft 
boulie  has  a  lii^e  court  bcfurc  it,  and  open  g.tllcric4 
all  Tound  it,  wluch  is,  to  one,  a  thing  Tcry  agrccibku 
This  gallery  leads  to  all  the  charabrrs,  wliicJi  aw., 
commonly  large,  and  with  two  rows  of  w  iiidowf,  rth* -• 
firft  bting  of*  p«ina-d  (;bl'<:  they  lieldom  btull  above 
nraftories,  each  vf^  which  haii  fpUkriu.     li.-etturi.i 


.■■»■. 


L'j:.lrtj  r.iLh  i.-wol 


34        THEVENOl"^  TRAVELS' 

»re  broad,  and  not  often  above  thirty  fteps.  Th» 
b  the  houic  belonging  ta  tiic  lord,  and  the  adjoining 
pne  is  called  the  hhram,  that  is,  die  ladies  apim- 
menr,  (tor  the  name  of  Sergio  u  peculiar  to  the 
grajid  flgnior)  it  has  alfo  a  gallery  running  round  ic 
toward  ihc  garden,  to  which  all  the  windows  arc 
turned,  and  the  f;ime  number  of  chambers  as  the 
other,  bin  more  gay  and  fpk'ndid,  both  in  paintii^ 
^nd  i'uminire.  '1  lie  llcond  row  of  windows  arc  vary 
low,  with  graits  like  tholo  of  convents-,  the  room* 
arc  a\\  fpread  with  Perfian  carpets,  and  raifed  at  one 
end  of  them  (my  chambers  are  raifed  at  both  ends) 
about  two  feet.  This  is  the  fopha,  which  is  laid  with 
X  richer  fcrt  of  carpet,  and  ail  round  ic  a  fort  of 
couch  raifed  h^U  a  toot,  covered  with  a  rich  G\ky 
according  to  tht-  fancy  or  magnificence  of  the  owner. 
Mine  is  of  fcarlet  cloch  witn  a  gold  tringe;  round 
about  this  are  placed,  {landing  agaJnft  the  wall,  two 
rows  of  cushions,  die  firft  very  large,  and  the  nex» 
Httleone  i  and  here  the  Turks  dilplay  their  greatcft 
nagnificencc.  They  arc  generally  brocade,  or  em- 
broidery of  gold  wire  upon  white  fattin-— Nothing 

can  look  more  gay  and  fplendid. I'hefe  feats  are 

alfo  fo  convenient  and  eafy,  that  I  believe  I  (hall  never 
endure  chairs  as  bng  as  I  live..  .The  rooms  are 
few,  which  I  think  no  faulc;  and  the  ceiling  is  al- 
ways of  wood,  generally  inlaid  or  painted  with  floWera, 
They  open  in  many  places,  with  folding-doors,  and 
fcrve  for  cabinets,  1  think  more  conveniently  than., 
ours.  Between  the  windows  are  litUc  arches  to  feo 
pots  of  perfume,  or  balkets  of  flowers.  But  what 
pleafcs  me  bed,  is  the  fafhion  of  having  marble  foun* 
tains  in  the  lower  part  of  the  room,  which  throw,  up 
feveral  fpouts  of  water,  giving,  at  the  fame  time,  tn 
agreeable  coolnefs,  and  a  plewint  dalhing  found,  i«l> 
Gng  ftom  one  bafon  to  another :  Ibme  of  thefe  are  • 
very  magnificent.  Each  houfe  has  a  bagnio,  which 
confifts  generally  in  two  or  three  little  rooms  leaded 
on  the  topi  paved  with  marble^  with  bafons,  cocks 
'   -  of 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  JJ^ ' 

of  water,  and  all  conveniencies  for  cilher  hot  or  cold 
baths. 

"  You  will  perhaps  be  furprifcd  at  an  account  Co 
different  from  what  you  have  been  entertained  with 
by  the  common  voyage-writers,  who  are  very  fond  of 
fpeaking  of  what  they  don't  know.  It  inuft  be  un- 
der a  very  particular  charaftcr,  or  on  Ibmc  extraordi- 
nary occafion,  that  a  ChrifVian  is  admitted  into  the 
houfc  of  a  man  of  quality  ;  and  their  harams  are  al- 
ways forbidden  ground.  Thus  they  can  only  fpeak 
of  the  outfidc,  which  makes  no  great  appearance ; 
and  the  women's  apartments  are  always  built  back- 
ward, removed  from  fight,  and  have  no  other  prof- 
peift  than  the  gardens,  which  are  cnclofcd  wiih  very 
high  walh.  There  is  none  of  our  parterres  in  theni ; 
but  they  are  planted  with  high  trees,  which  give  an 
agreeable  fhade,  and  to  my  fancy,  a  pleafing  view. 
In  the  midft  of  the  garden  is  the  chiollc,  that  is,  a 
iar^c  room,  commonly  beautified  with  a  fine  foun- 
tain in  the  midft  of  it.  It  is  raifcd  nine  or  ten  Heps, 
and  enclofed  with  gilded  lattices,  round  which,  vines, 
jcffamines,  and  honcy-fuckles,  make  a  fort  of  green 
wall.  Large  trees  arc  planted  round  this  pljcc, 
which  is  the  Rene  of  their  grcateft  plealUres,  ami 
where  the  iaciies  fpcnd  moft  ot  their  hours,  employ- 
ed by  their  mufic  or  embroidery. In  the  public 

gardens,  there  are  public  chiolks,  where  ihe  people 
go,  that  arc  not  fo  well  accommodated  at  home, 
and  drink  their  coffee,  Ihcrbct,  &c.  Neither  are 
they  ignorant  of  a  more  durable  manner  of  builJing ; 
their  mofoucs  are  all  of  frcc-ftone,  and  the  public 
hsnns,  or  mns,  cxtrcamly  magnificenr,  m^ny  of  them 
taking  up  a  Urge  fquarc,  built  round  with  fhc^s  un- 
der ftonc  arches,  where  poor  artiticers  are  lodged 
gratis.  They  have  always  a  mol'quc  joining  to  them, 
and  the  body  of  the  hann  is  a  moffc  noble  hall,  ca- 
pable of  holding  _j  or  400  pcrlons ;  the  court  cx- 
crcamly  I'paciou;,  and  cluiilers  round  it,  thit  give  it 
the  air  of  our  colleger  I  own,  I  think  it  a  more 
O  2  rcafu.iablc 


36  THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

reafonablc  piece  of  charity  than  the  founding  of  cort- 
vents.— — 

**  Moft  families  have  had  their  houfcs  burnt  tJown 
once  or  twice,  occafioncd  by  their  extraordinaty  way 
of  warming  (hemrdvcs,  which  is  neither  by  chimnies 
ror  ftovcs,  but  by  a  certain  machine  called  a  Ten- 
dour,  the  heiglii  oi'  two  foot,  in  the  form  of  a  table, 
covered  with  a  fine  carpet  or  embroidery.  This  is 
made  only  of  wood,  and  they  put  into  it  a  fmall  quan- 
tity of  hot  alhcs,  and  fit  with  their  legs  under  the 
carper.  At  this  table  thty  work,  read,  and,  very 
often,  flt-epi  and  if  they  chance  to  dream,  and 
kick  down  the  Tcndour,  the  hot  afhes  commonly  fct 
the  hoiifi;  on  fire.  There  were  500  houfcs  burnt  in 
this  manner  about  a  fortnight  ago,  and  I  have  feen 
fcveral  of  ihc  owners  (ince,  who  leem  not  at  all  mov- 
ed at  fo  common  a  misfortune.  They  put  their  goods 
into  a  barii,  and  ice  their  houfes  burn  with  great  phi- 
fophy,  thrir  perlons  being  very  fcldom  endangered, 
having  no  (lairs  10  dcfceiid."J 

In  Afu,  if  you  croJ's  the  fea,  which  is  about  a 
milco^tr,  you  con ;c  to  Schuiart,  palTing  by  Lean- 
der's  [.iwer.  It  is  a  large  town,  and  there  the  grand 
fignior  has  a  ftately  feragiio  and  lovely  gardens.  A 
little  lower  lies  Chalcedon,  once  a  city  famous  for 
the  fourth  general  council,  but  now  a  pitiful  village. 
The  Princt's  Iflc,  which  is  four  hours  fail  from  Coi^ 
ftantinople,  and  contains  two  little  towns  of  Greeks^ 
has  excellent  air;  and  the  channel  of  the  Black  Sea, 
called  the  Thracian  Bofphorus,  is  very  convenient  to 
take  the  air  upon,  being  twelve  miles  long,  afford- 
ing a  delightful  profpedl  of  ftately  houfes  and  lovely 
gardens.  Six  miles  from  Conttantinoplc  arc  two  forts, 
built  to  hinder  the  inroads  of  the  Coffacks,  who  would 
otherwife  fcek  their  booty  in  that  city.  At  the  mouth 
of  the  Bofphorus  is  a  rock,  about  fifty  paces  from  the 
land,  where  ftands  a  pillar  of  white  marble,  called 
*I'ompcy*s  Pillar,  becaufc  raifed  by  him  (as  it  is  feid) 
in  memory  <rf  hii  vidlory  over  Mithridates.  Over 
ag^tnft 


^^B'' 

||^PB| 

M 

1 

W% 

y 

■ 

PI 

^K  i 

^ 

^W  fl 

^^m  I 

^S^ 

Ewlk  ^1 

ri 

^^^^^ 

|M 

^3 

K 

^^^^^' »  j^^bh^b^?-'..  m 

'm/'  a^'^O'H 

■^■^^Bfcj.^^%  ^"  {jBfy^ 

TO  THE  LEVANT. 


37. 


^ainft  this  rock  in  Europe  is  a  village  by  ihe  fca- 
fkie,  called  Fiinare,  where  is  a  liglu-hoiife  for  the 
convenience  of  veflcls  ro  keep  them  Irom  the  rocks, 
o.i  which  they  are  in  danger  from  frequent  tempefts 
and  currents,  caufcd  by  the  Danube.  Borilihcnes, 
Tanais,  and  other  rivers  falHng  irto  this  fea,  to  fuf- 
ter  (bipwrecks  :  froirt  thence  it  is  called  Mauro- 
Thalalla,  i.  e.  The  B!jck-Sea ;  and  by  the  Greeks, 
the  Euxinc,  or  Axene-Sea,  i.e.  Inhofpirablc. 

The  Turks  arc  commonly  wcU-Ihaprd,  and  have 
aone  crooked  or  crippled  among  them,  but  are  gene- 
rally of  robuft  and  ftrong  conftitutions.  Their  ha- 
bit is  very  fit  to  make  them  fcem  graceful,  and  to 
cover  all  dcfeds  ;  for  next  tfieir  {kin  they  wear  a  pair 
of  drawers,  and  over  thciu  a  flilrt  and  doliman.  reach- 
ing down  to  their  heels,  like  a  cloft-bodied  cafibct 
made  of  fattin,  taffata,  or  other  neat  ft'jiT.  which  Is 
quilted  in  wiaier;  and  this  they  gitd  about  with  :t 
lalh,  or  leathern- belt,  adorned  with  gold  or  filvcr- 
bucklcs.  Al  their  girdles  they  commonly  wear  two 
daggers,  orcangiars,  their  handles  and  Iheaths  being 
garnilTicd  witli  gold  and  filver,  and  lbmeiiiii;<i  pirci- 
ou^  rtones,  and  their  pouch  fur  tobacco.  Over  the 
doliman  they  wear  a  ieredg,  or  nightgown,  whicli 
jn  winter  time  they  line  wuh  rich  lurs,  if  tliey  arc 
able.  Their  (lockings  arc  of  cioth,  and  the  fcL:t*fe 
fotksof  red  and  yellow  leather,  f^ivej  to  th.-ni  Their 
Jhocs  which  they  call  I'ado'ichrs,  are  of  the  fame 
colour,  like  our  flippers.  Their  licadi  are  covrcd 
with  a  ciimlon  velvet  rap,  without  briiili,  aboUE 
which  thry  wreath  a  white  »r  red  turbao*  which  is  a 
fcarf  of  linen  or  Ttlk  iluff,  many  ells  lon^,  and  by 
the  fiUhioti  of  it  the  ijujluy  of  the  man  is  ktijwn. 
The  jaoiziriss  wear  upon  fome  fpccial  occafions  a  fcr- 
coUl  orcjppf  cercmuny,  which  hangs  drjwn  Miind, 
and.nas  a  pipe  of  gJt  kaiher  belbre,  iulf  a  toot  long,, 
reaching  to  the  middl.-  of  their  rbrcheaJi  i  otheri 
jBtifethey  wear  a  turban  of  whiter  red,  or  other  fi\kf 
'  ;  ffifOXfi^  ^fStV^  Tutks  do. 

D  ^  Tla 


40 


THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 


bUcknera  of  rhem.  I  fancy  many  of  our  ladies  would 
be  overjoyed  to  know  this  lecrct ;  but  'tis  too  vifibic 
by  day.  They  dye  their  nails  a  rofc  colour;  but  I 
own,  I  cannot  enough  accullom  myfeif  to  this  fii- 
lliion,  to  find  any  beauty  in  it."  —  ] 

The  Turki  fhavc  their  heads,  and  fay  the  devil 
nettles  in  long  h.iir ;  but  they  fufFer  their  beard  and 
niuftachos  to  grow:  they  have  a  great  cftccm  for  a 
inan  with  a  handfome  beard,  and  account  it  a  great 
affront  lo  take  a  man  by  his  beard :  they  fwear  by  that 
of  iheir  failirr,  the  grand  fignior,  or  the  like.  They 
falute  one  another  by  laying  their  hands  upon  their 
breafts,  and  bowing  a  liltJe,  fay,  Sela  meon  alticom^ 
i.  e.  Peace  be  with  you-,  and  the  perfon  faluted  re- 
turns the  like  anfwer,  which  was  the  ancient  way  of 
ftiiitation,  as  appears  from  the  fcripture,  and  is  very' 
grave.  The  left-hand  is  the  mofl  honourable  with 
the  Turks,  beciufe  it  is  the  fword-fide,  lb  that  the 
Chriftians  and  Turks,  though  neither  will  give  the 
upper-hand  one  to  another,  agree  well  in  walking  to- 
gether, through  difl-ercnce  of  opinion. 

The  Turks  make  great  ufc  of  bathing,  both  for 
keeping  their  bodies  neat  and  clean,  and  for  their 
health's  fake ;  and  in  every  town  ihcy  have  many 
fair  bagnios,  the  fmalleft  village  being  ftldnm  with- 
out one.  They  are  all  made  of  the  famciafhion,  dif- 
fering only  in  bigncfs  and  ornaments.  All  that  go 
into  thcfn  (have  off  all  ihc  hair  of  their  body,  nnd 
go  in  naked,  all  but  their  Joins,  which  are  covered 
With  a  napkin.  A  fcrvant  alfo  nibs  them  well  be- 
hind and  before,  to  fupple  their  bones  before  they 
go  in.  Such  as  cannot  (have  ihemfclves,  fttch  ctF 
the  hair  with  the  powder  of  a  certain  mineral  called 
Riifma,  which  being  mingled  with  lime  and  hot  wa- 
ICT,  and  l.iid  upon  any  place,  will  fetch  off  the  hair 
in  ha!f  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  time.  In  Malta  they 
ufeorpiment  for  the  fame  end.  Having  bathed,  a 
lervant  with  loap  and  cloths  cleanfcs  the  body  from 
*li  SIch,  and  then  they  are  dried  with  warm  cloths, 
■-^-■:'  ■'  and 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  41 

and  fo  drefs.  The  price  of  the  bagnio  is  two  afpers 
for  ihe  maftcr,  anit  as  army  for  the  man,  if  he  will 
be  well  lervcd.  The  puorcft  perfon  ihar  is,  man  or 
woman,  goes  to  the  bath  at  leaft  once  a  week.  Tlie 
women  go  in  by  themfclves,  and  are  fcrved  by  wo- 
men only.  It  is  a  capital  crime  for  a  man  to  go  into 
the  bath  where  the  women  arc'.  Great  pcrlbns  have 
them  in  their  houl'cs  for  themfelvcs  and  wives. 

[Lady  Montague  went  to  one  of  thcfc  bagnios  at 
Sophia,  a  handlonic  town  near  Adrianople,  famous 

for  its  hot  baths,  ar,d  dcfcrib^s  it  thus : "  I  went 

to  the  bagnio  about  ten  o'clock.  It  was  already  full 
of  women.  It  is  built  of  Itone,  in  the  Ihape  of  a 
dome,  with  110  windows  but  in  the  roof,  which  gives 
light  enough.  There  were  five  of  thcfe  domes  joined 
together,  the  utmofl  being  Icfs  than  the  rcil,  and 
fcrving  only  as  .1  hail,  where  the  portrels  ftood  ar  the 
door.  Ladies  of  quality  generally  give  iKis  woman 
a  crown  or  ten  flfiliings,  and  I  did  not  fb;gct  that 
ceremony.  The  next  room  is  a  very  large  one,  paved 
wi[h  marble,  and  all  round  it  are  two  raHird  Tufas  of 
marble,  one  above  another.  There  were  f>ur  foiin- 
tJtns  of  cold  water  in  this  r'iom,  falling  firil  into 
marble  balbns,  and  ti.en  running  on  the  Q.ior  in 
little  channels  made  for  thit  pupjlc,  which  carried 
the  ftrcams  into  the  next  roo^ii,  l  Jincthmj;  Ief>  than 
this,  with  the  fame  fun  of  marble  fophas  biu  I'j  hoc 
with  flcims  of  fulphur  proctedijig  fioni  the  baths 
joining  to  it,  it  was  impolfible  10  tby  tlicrc  v/iEii  one's 
cloaths  on.  'i'hc  two  other  domes  were  the  hot 
baths,  one  of  which  had  cccks  of  cold  water  turning 

■  into  ic,  to  tempir  it  to  what  degree  of  warmth  the 
"Tjhcrs  plcafed,    - 

I  was  in  my  riding-drtfs,  and  certainly  appcaretl 

r  extraordinary  to  them.     Vet  there  was  not  one 

'then]  that  (hewed  the  leaft  furpriieor  impcrtiiietit 

curiofity,  but  recxivcd  me  ivjih  all  the  obliging  clvi- 

Jky  pufiibje.     I  know  no  t'.uropcan  court,  wIjcic  ihe 
^MHHWbuld  h^f't  Lduved  themfclves  in  fo  polite  a 


•  tnio  ic 


42         THEVENOri  TAAVfiLS 

manner  to  fuch  a  ftranger.  J  believe^  upon  the 
whok,  there  wert  300  women,  and  yet  Dime  of  thole 
difiiainful  fmilcs,  and  fatirical  whUbers,  that  neva 
fail  in  our  ^emblies,  when  any  body  appears  that  is 
not  drclTcd  exadly  ia  the  fafhion.  They  repeated 
over  and  ovtr  to  me,  "  Uzelle,  pck  Uzelle,'*  which 
is  nothing  but.  Charming,  very  charming.— — The 
firft  Tophas  were  covered  with  cuihions  and  rich  car- 
pets, on  which  fat  the  ladies  ;  and  on  the  iecond,  thnr 
flaves  behind  them,  but  without  any  diftin&ion  of 
fjnk  by  their  drcfs,  all  being  in  the  itate  of  nature, 
that  is,  in  plain  Engtifh,  ftark  naked,  without  any 
beauty  or  dcfedl  concealed.  Yet  there  was  not  the 
leaft  wanton  fmile  or  immodcft  gcllurc  amongft  them. 
They  walked  and  moved  with  the  fame  majcftic  graces 
which  Mitton  dcfcribes  our  gtncral  mother  with. 
There  were  many  amongft  them,  as  exactly  propor- 
tioned as  ever  any  goddefs  was  drawn  by  the  pencil 

of  a  Guido  or  Titian, And  moft  of  their  fkins 

(hiningly  white,  only  adorned  by  their  beautiful  hair, 
divided  into  many  trelTcs,  hanging  on  their  (houtders, 
braided  either  with  pcurl  or  ribbon,  perfcflly  repre- 
fenting  the  figures  of  the  graces.     ' 

I  was  here  convinced  of  the  truth  of  a  refleSion  I 
have  of:en  made,  "  that  if  it  were  the  falhion  to  go 
naked,  the  face  would  be  hardly  obfcrved."  I  per- 
ceived that  the  ladies  of  the  nnoft  delicate  Ikins  and 
fineft  Ihapcs,  had  the  greatell  Ihare  of  my  admira- 
tion, though  their  fjccs  were  fomctimes  lefs  beauti- 
ful than  thofe  of  their  companions.  To  tell  you  the 
truth,  I  had  wickednefs  enough,  to  wiHi  fecretly, 
that  Mr.  Jcrvais  could  have  been  there  invifiblc.  I 
fancy  it  would  have  very  much  improved  his  art,  to 
tee  fo  many  fine  women  naked,  in  different  poftures, 
fomc  in  converfation,  fomc  in  working,  others  drink- 
ing coffee  or  flierbet,  and  many  negligently  lying  on 
their  cufliions,  while  their  fiavcs,  generally  pretty 
girls  of  feventccn  or  eighteen,  were  employed  in 
braiding  their  hair  in  feveral  pretty  faocics.    In  fliort. 


,  TO  THE   LEVANT.  4^ 

it  is  the  woman's  coftcc-houfc,  where  all  the  news  of 
the  town  is  told,  I'candal  invented,  &c. They  ge- 
nerally take  this  diverfion  once  a  week,  and  ftay  there 
at  leJlt  four  or  five  hours,  without  getting  cold,  by 
immeviiatc  coming  out  of  the  hot-bath  into  the  cool 
room,  which  was  very  furprifing,  10  me.  The  lady, 
that  feemcd  the  moft  confiderable  aniongft  them,  en- 
treated me  to  fit  by  her,  and  would  fain  have  undrcf- 
fed  me  for  the  bath,  1  excufed  myfclf  with  great 
difficulty.  They  being  however  all  fo  earnelt  in  per- 
fuading  me,  I  was  at  lad  forced  to  open  my  (hirr, 
and  Ihcw  them  my  ftays,  which  fatisfied  ihcm  very 
well  i  for,  I  faw,  ihi^y  believed  I  was  locted  up  in 
that  machine,  and  that  it  was  not  in  my  own  power 
to  open  it,  which  contrivance  they  attiibuKd  to  my 

hufljand." 

This  agreeable  writer  furnifhci  farther  remarks  on 
the  Turkilh  ladies, — **  'Tis  very  ptcafant  to  obferve 
how  Tenderly  voyage- writers  lament  the  miferable 
confinement  of  the  Turkilh  ladies,  who  are  perhaps 
more  free  than  any  ladies  in  the  univcrfe,  and  arc  the 
only  women  in  the  world,  that  lead  a  life  of  uninter- 
rupted plcafurc,  exempt  from  cares,  their  whole  time 
being  (pent  in  villting,  bathing,  or  the  agreeable 
amulement  of  fpending  money -and  Inventing  nc^v 
faOiions.  A  hulband  would  be  thought  mad  that 
exufted  any  degree  of  ceconomy  from  his  wile,  whole 
cxpences  are  no  way  limited  but  by  her  own  fancy. 
*Tis  his  bufind's  10  get  money,  and  her's  lo  fpcm:  it ; 
and  this  noble  prerogative  extends  iii'elt  to  the  very 
mtancrt  of  ihc  fex.  Here  is  a  fellow  that  carries 
embroidered  handkerchiefs  upon  his  back  to  (ell, 
add  as  milerabtc  a  figure  as  you  may  fujMKtli-  fiicli  a 
mean  dealer  ■,  yet  I'll  afTure  you,  his  wife  Icorns  ui 
wnrtny  thing  lefs  than  cloth  of  gold-,  has  her  er- 
mine furs,  and  s  very  hindfome  fct  of  jewels  for  her 
bead.  Tis  iroc,  they  have  noplace*  but  the  bagnioi, 
,  and  thrte  can  only  be  fcen  by  their  own  fex  v  how- 
■^k^  thaE  is  a  diwijon  they  take  great  plearurc  in.  •^1 


44        THEVENOTs  TRAVELS 

"  1  was,  three  days  ago,  at  oiic  of  the  fined  in 
the  town,  and  had  the  opportunity  of  feeing  a  Tur- 
kifli  bride  received  there,  and  ill  the  ceremony 
ufed  oil  tliac  occafion,  which  made  me  recoUe<5t  the 
Epitiialamium  of  Htkn,  by  Theocritus  -,  and  it  feems 
to  me,  [hat  the  fame  culbjms  have  continued  ever 
fincc.  All  the  (he  friends,  relations  and  acquaintance 
of  the  two  famihcs,  newly  allied,  meet  at  the  bagnio ; 
fevcral  others  go,  outof  curtofity,  and  I  believe  there 
were  that  day  200  women.  Thofe  who  were,  or  had 
been  married,  placed  themfelves  round  the  rooms, 
on  the  marble  lophas;  but  the  virgins  very  haftily 
threw  off  their  cloaths,  and  appeared  without  other 
ornament,  or  covering,  than  their  own  long  hair  braid- 
ed with  pearl  or  ribbon.  Two  of  them  met  the  bride 
at  the  door,  conducted  by  her  mother  and  another 
grave  relation.  She  was  a  beautiful  maid  of  about 
fcventcen,  very  richly  dreflcd,  and  Ihining  with  jewels, 
but  was  prefendy  reduced  to  the  ftate  of  nature. 
Two  others  filled  filver  gilt  pots  with  perfume,  and 
began  the  procelTion,  the  reft  following  in  pairs,  to 
the  number  of  thirty.  The  leaders  fung  an  Epithala- 
mium,  anfwercd  by  the  others  in  chorus,  and  the  two 
Jaft  led  tiie  tair  bride,  her  eyes  fixed  on  the  ground, 
with  a  charming  affeftation  of  modefty.  In  this  or- 
der they  marched  round  the  three  large  rooms  of  the 
bagnio.  'Tis  not  eafy  to  reprefeni  to  you  the  beauty 
of  this  fi-jhr,  moll  of  them  being  well-proportioned 
and  white  fkinned  ;  all  of  them  pcrfe6t]y  finooih,  and 
poliihed  by  the  Ircqucnt  ufe  of  bathing.  After  hav- 
ing made  tht-'ir  tour,  the  bride  was  again  led  to  every 
macron  round  the  rooms,  who  faluted  her  with  a 
compUmcnt  and  a  prefcnt,  fome  of  jewels,  others  of 
pieces  of  ftuft",  handkerchiefs,  or  little  gallantries  of 
tliac  nature,  which  ihe  thanked  them  for  by  kifli.ig 
their  hands.  1  was  very  well  pleafed  with  having 
leen  this  ceremony  i  and  you  may  bcUeve  me,  that 
the  Turkifli  ladies  have,  at  leaH;,  as  much  wit  and 
civility,  my  liberty,   as  among  us,  ■  'Tis  true,  the 

fame 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 

fame  cuftoms  that  give  them  lb  many  opportii nicies 
of  gratifying  tlieir  evil  inclinations  (if  they  have  any) 
alfo  put  it  very  fully  in  the  power  of  their  huftands 
to  revenge  themfclvcs,  if  they  are  difcovered  ;  and  I 
doubt  not  but  they  fuffer  fomeiimes  for  iheir  indif- 
cretions  in  a  very  fevcre  manner.  About  two  month* 
ago,  there  was  found  at  day-break,  not  very  for  trom' 
my  houfe,  the  bleeding  body  of  a  young  woman, 
naked,  only  wra^iped  in  a  coarfc  flieet,  with  two 
wounds  of  a  knife,  one  in  her  fide,  and  another  in 
her  brcall.  She  was  not  quite  coM,  and  was  fo  fur- 
prifingly  beautiful,  tliat  there  were  very  fcw  men  in 
Pera,  that  did  not  go  to  look  upon  her  j  but  it  was 
not  pofTible  for  any  perfon  to  know  her,  no  woman's 
face  being  known.  She  was  fuppofcd  to  have  been 
brought,  in  the  dead  of  night,  from  the  Conftanti- 
noplc  fide,  and  laid  there.  Very  little  enquiry  was 
made  about  the  murder,  and  the  corplc  was  privately 
buried  without  noife.  Murder  is  never  purfued  by 
the  king's  officers,  as  with  us.  'Tis  the  bufinefs  of 
the  next  relations  to  revenge  the  dead  perfon  i  and  if 
they  like  better  lo  compound  the  matter  for  money 
(as  they  generjlly  do)  tiierc  is  no  more  fiid  of  ia 
One  would  imagine  this  dcfeCf  in  their  governmentj ' 
fijould  make  fuch  iragetUes  very  frequent,  jet  they 
arc  cxtreamly  rare;  which  is  enough  to  prove  ims 
people  not  naturally  cruel.  Neithvr  do  1  chink,  ill' 
many  other  particulars,  they  deferve  the  bdrbwoui  • 

character  we  give  them.. •  ■ 

"  Upon  thcwhole,  I  look  upon  thcTurkilh women,  > 
as  the  only  free  people  in  the  empire;  the  verydivwl 
pays  a  refpcft  to  them,  and  the  gr.\nd  fignior  hirt- 
felf,  when  a  bafla  is  executed,  never  violates  the  pri- 
vileges of  the  haram,  (or  women's  apartment)  which  . 
remains  unfearched  and  entire  to  the  widow.  They  ' 
are  queens  of  their  Daves,  whom  the  hulband  h,is  tid 
permiflion  fo  much  as  to  look  upon,  except  it  be  an  ' 
■  I  ff onwp  or  two  chat  hia  lady  chul'ei,    '  I'ls  true; 

their 


jfi        THEVfiNOrs  TRAVEL^ 

their  lair  permits  them  four  wives*,  but  thexe  is  no 
ioftance  chT  a  man  of  quality  that  snakes  ufi:  of  thii 
Ijbeny,  or  of  a  woman  of  rank  tiut  would  fufitr  it. 
When  a  hulbaod  happens  to  be  inconftant  (as  tfaode 
ditnes  will  happen)  he  ^ps  his  iniftreis  »  t 
houlc  apart,  and  vifics  her  k  privatsljr  as  be  can,  jnft 
as  it  is  with  you.  Amoiigft  all  the  great  men  beie, 
I  only  knew  the  tefterdar  (t.  e,  creafurer)  that  keeps 
a  number  of  fbe-flaves,  for  his  own  ufe,  (that  is,  on  hit 
own  lide  of  the  houfe,  for  a  Qave  once  given  to  ferve 
a  lady,  is  entirely  at  her  difpofal)  and  he  is  fpokc  of 
as  a  Ubertine,  or  what  wc  fhould  call  a  rake  ^  and  hit 
wife  won't  fee  him,  though  fhe  continues  to  live  io 
his  houfe."]  — 

The  Turks  have  no  fumptuous  feafts,  bat  are  con- 
tented with  a  fmall  matter.  They  have  no  £uioei 
but  what  are  made  at  6rll  light,  as  (ul,  pepper,  && 
Their  ufual  food  is  pilau,  which  is  rice  boiled  with  a 
pullet,  a  piece  of  mutton,  beef,  or  the  like,  and  for 
want  of  meat,  with  butter.  Their  bread  is  light,  but 
coarfe,  like  our  bifcuit;  and  fiat.  They  fpread  a  car- 
pet of  Turkey  leather  on  the  ground,  called  a'  Softa« 
and  lilting  down  upon  the  ground  like  taylors,  eat  it 
with  wooden  fpoons  \  and  infte^d  of  napkins,  they 
t)fe  a  long  blue  cloth,  calt  round  the  table.  They 
drink  water  ufually,  becaufe  wine  feems  to  be  fi>r-> 
bidden  by  the  alcoran ;  but  the  goodfellows  fay,  ft 
is  a  council,  not  a  precept,  and  fo  drink  it  plentifully  j 

*  Silercinarhi  on  thiifiibjea:  '*  Several  learned  men  bare  Mien 
into  the  vulgar  mjllakc,  that  Moharamed  granted  to  hi)  foUower* 
an  unbounded  plurality  ;  Tome  pretending  that  a  man  may  have  a* 
many  wivei,  and  oihen,  as  many  concubine*,  as  he  can  mainufn  i 
wbereii,  according  to  the  expreli  word*  of  the  koran,  no  maa  can 
have  more  than  four,  whether  wii^i  or  concubines.^.^Nor  can  «« 
nrM  ai  an  argument  agaioft  To  plain  a  precept,  the  corrnpt  manitera 
of  his  followers,  many  of  whom,  erpecially  men  or  quality  and 
fortune,  indulge  (hemfelves  in  criminal  cxcefTes;  nor  yet  the  CT* 
ample  of  the  prophet  himrdf,'  who  had  peculiar  privileges  in  tU* 
iM  other  points."    Prelinu  X)1C  to  the  &onn,  %  t).  p.  176. 

but 


TO  THE   LEVANT. 

but  ftw  do  it  in  public,  eiccept  the  janizariw  or  Ibme 
profligates.  They  never  mingle  water  with  tlieir  wine* 
and  laugh  at  the  Chriftians  tor  lb  doing.  It  ia  plen- 
tiful at  ConllaBtinople,  and  all  over  the  Archipe- 
lago. The  poorer  forti,  tor  cheapods,  drink  a  liquor 
made  of  barley  and  millei,  Ibmewliat  tike  our  beerr 
but  not  fo  pk-al'mt.  'i'his  drink  wilt  makjc  thsm 
drunk.  They  alio  drink  coffee  all  hours  of  the  day. 
This  liquor  they  hoM  to  be  good  to  cure  ihe  headrach, 
and  keep  down  vapoura  from  the  head-,  ic  corotbrts 
ihc  ftoiiiach,  and  helps  the  digi:ftion ;  nay,  ihcy  fay 
kis  good  againft  all  maladies.-  All  lexes  and  ranks* 
lich  and  poor,  dnnk  at  leail  two  or  three  dilhcs  aday 
in  Turkey.  At  the  coftirc  lioules  ihc  maftcr  hatfi 
Qiufic  to  divert  his  curtomers,  and  draw  others  in. 
They  have  alfo  fherbcc,  which  is  a  very  good  dnnk, 
made  in  X'.gypt,  of  fug'.r,  lemon-juice,  mufk,  am- 
bcrgroafe  and  rofe-water.  At  their  treats  tltcy  give 
coffee,  Iherbct,  and  perfume  for  their  beards.  They 
fpread  quiks  on  the  ground  for  their  bedding,  and 
every  one  lies  on  his  own,  and  the  niailers  lay  them 
on  their  divans. 

Their  recreations  arc  cither  to  Deep,  fmoak  a  pipe 
of  tobacco,  or  play  on  the  tamlxHir,  which  is  a  kind 
ot  lute;  and  though  it  be  no  pleafant  inufic,  they 
will  play  all  dsy  on  it  -,  but  Icholars  read  or  wnte. 
'I'hey  laugh  at  the  i'Vanks  for  walking  backward  and 
forward.  They  entertain  their  company  with  dif- 
courJe,  or  a  game  atchcfs,  draughts,  tables,  or  fuch 
like  plays ;  but  tliey  never  play  for  money,  or  any 
thing  of  value,  becaul'e  they  account  it  fmful ;  and 
yet  will  fpend  whole  afternoons  at  their  games.  The 
recreations  of  Ibldiers  arc  their  military  cxcrcifcs, 
viz.  (liooting  at  m^rks  or  butts  with  bows  and  arrows, 
darting  the  zagaye,  (hooting  widian  harquebufe,  run- 
ning. The  other  Turks  m.ikc  a  great  diverfion  of 
puppet-lliews,  which,  though  performed  difiVrent 
trom  ours»  yet  arc  more  pU-jfiog-,  their  fon^  arc 
^  pretty. 


<«         THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

pretty,  but  obfccne  -,  and  fa  atc  many  of  their  po(^ 
turrs  in  dancing. 

The  Turkilh  language  ts  a  primitive  and  oriental 
tongue-,  and  though  not  very  copious,  yet  is  grave 
and  pleafant,  and  with  a  little  fupply  from  the  Ara- 
bian and  Perfian,  is  rich  r.nd  elegant  enough.  The 
Turks  arc  not  much  addidcd  to  fciences,  yet  have 
doctors  of  their  law,  who  explain  it  in  all  fenles. 

[With  regard  to  the  Turkifh  religion,  Mr,  Touriie* 
fort  fays, **  The  only  article  of  faith  the  Maho- 
metans have,  is,  that  there  is  but  one  God,  and  thai 
Mahomet  is  the  melTenger  of  God.  As  to  the  coav- 
mandments,  the  Turks  reduce  them  to  five.  I.  To 
pray  five  times  in  a  day.  II.  To  fafl:  in  lent  (or  their 
month  of  Ramadan.)  III.  To  give  alms,  and  do 
works  of  charity.  iV.  To  go  in  pilgrimage  to  Me- 
cha.  V,  To  fuffer  no  filth  upon  their  body.  There 
arc  four  other  poinu  adtlcd,  but  not  as  abfoluccly 
,  neceflary  to  falvation.  i.  To  keep  Friday  a  labbath. 
2.  To  be  circumcifed.  j.  To  drink  no  wine.  4, 
Not  to  cat  fwine's  flefh,  nor  things  ftrangied.— Th<y 
believe  alfo  that  their  prayers  will  not  be  heard,  unle^ 
they  firft  refblve  firmly  to  forgive  their  enemies.  It  is 
for  this  reafon  that  they  never  let  a  Friday  pafs  with- 
out making  a  hearty  reconciliation  -,  and  hence  it  is, 
that  we  never  hear  of  any  malice  among  the  Turks.* 

Where  their  theological  affiimpticns  are  fo  fi;w 
and  fimpie,  and  where,  in  confequtrnce,  fuch  ftrefs 
is  laid  on  good  works ;  tht-re,  if  any  wi;cre,  wc  may 
cxpeft  to  Tee  the  duties  of  humanity  cultivated  in  an 
efpccial  manner;  and  if  the  difference  of  religious 
lentiments  will  not  permit  us  to  regard  them  as  bro- 
thers in  Chrift,  we  fliall  be  obliged  to  allow  them  at 
leaft  the  charafter  of  being  good  Samaritans. 

'*  We  are  told,  that  belKle  private  aims,  there  is  nO' 
nation  which  expends  mure  upon  public  tbundations 

*  S«  a  colIcAion  of  the  moral  precepts  contained  in  the  Koran  ; 
htely  pvblilhecl  under  the  title  of  n't  MnttHi}  n/ iht  Enji. 

than 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


■fSv 


thin  the  Turks.     Even  they  who  have  but  a  mode'^^ 
rate  fortune  leave  ibmething  after  their  death,  l6i^,^ 
maintain  a  man  to  give  water  in  the  fummer  heats  ^ 
drink  to  paflengers,  as  they  ^  along  by  the  placd   , 
where  theyare  buried."  "Nor  (continues  M.  Toum*- 
fort)  do  1  queltion  but  they  would  alfo  have  ordered 
vefiels  of  wine,  if  Mahomet  had  not  forbidden  the 
ufe  of  it.     The  fick  vifit  the  prilbns,  to  diJchiirj 

I      thofe  who  are  arrefted  for  debt :  they  are  very  catef 
to  relieve  pcrlbns  who  are  baihfuUy  afhamcd  of  thei 
poverty.      How  many  families  may  one   find, 
haVc  been  ruined  by  fires,  and  are  rcftored  by 
,    ties  !    They  need  only  prcfeni  themfclves  at  the 
of  the  mofques :  they  alfo  go  to  their  hoiifes  to  coi 
fort  the  afilifted.     The  difeafed,  and  they  who 
the  peftilcncc,    are  fuccoured  by  their  rcighbour'ij 
purfe,  and  the  parilh  funds.    For  the  Turks,  as  Leui 
clavius  obferves,    fet  no  bounds  to  their  clviritii 
They  lay  out  money  for  repairing  the  high-wjys, 
making  fountains  for  the  beDe6t  of  palTciincrs  i 
buijd  hofpitals,  inn%  batlis,  briJf^es,  and  mofqin 
"  As  charity  and  love  of  our  neiglihour^  are 
aioft  efTcntia!  points  of  the  M-ihomctan  religion, 
high-way*  are  generally  kept  mighty  wtl!-,  and'th< 
are  fprings  of  water  totnmon  enough,  becaule 
arc  wanted  for  making  the  ablution;,     Ihc  poi?r  li 
after  the  conduit-pipes,  and  thoi'e  of  tolcrjWe 
tune  repair  the  caiifcways.     The  nf  ighbourhood 
teacher  to  build  bridges  over  riie  deep  rcad>, 
contribute  to  the  benefit  of  the  public  according 
their  power.    Ihc  workmen  uke  na  hire,  but  tif 
laboutcrt  and  mnlbns  gratis  for  the  fcveral  foris 
work.     You  may   fee  pitchers  of  water  ilanding 
the  doors  of  the  houles  in  the  towns,  for  the  ufe  i 
paflengers  ;  and  fome  honeft  muGiilm'-n  '^-  '"■  r^"-: 
fclvcs  undcF  a  Ion  of  flieds,  which  i'  :c 

foad,  and  do  nothing  ell'e  during  rh:  ■: 

I      B«  thofe  who  arc  weary  to  come  in,  ^ ....-^^ 

fclves,  ami  take  refTpefliment.  -  The  beggvs  tjwm- 

[         Vot.  VI.  E  fdv.j. 


so       THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

felvcs,  though  there  are  very  few  to  be  fccn,  think 
they  are  obliged  to  give  their  fuperfluiiics  to  other 
poor  folks  1  and  they  carry  charity,  or  rather  va- 
nity, to  fuch  an  extream,  that  they  give  their 
leavings  even  to  liifficient  pcrToos,  who  make  no 
fcruple  to  receive  their  bread,  and  to  cat  it.  to  ihew 
how  highly  they  efteem  their  virtue. 

"  The  charity  of  the  Mahometans  is  extended  alio 
to  animals  and  plants,  and  to  the  dead.  They  be- 
lieve it  is  pleafing  to  God,  fince  men  who  will  ufe 
their  reafon  want  for  nothing ;  whereas  the  animali 
not  having  reafon,  their  inftinA  often  expolcs  them 
to  feck  their  food  with  the  lols  of  their  lives.  In  coo- 
fiderable  towns  they  fell  victuals  at  the  corners  of  the 
ftreets  to  give  to  the  dc^s  ■,  and  fome  Turks,  out  of 
charity,  have  them  cured  of  wounds,  and  especially 
of  the  mange,  with  which  thefe  creatures  are  roiier- 
ably  afflifted  toward  the  end  of  their  life  :  and  we 
may  fee  perfons  of  good  fenfe,  out  of  mere  devotion, 
carry  ftraw  to  lay  under  the  bitches  which  arc  going 
to  whelp ;  and  they  build  them  fmall  huts  to  fnelter 
them  and  their  puppies.  We  would  hardly  believe 
there  are  endowments  fettled  in  form  by  will,  for 
maintaining  a  cert^n  number  of  dogs  and  cats  fo 
many  days  in  the  week  ;  yet  this  is  commonly  done : 
and  there  are  people  paid  at  Confbuitinople  to  fee  the 
donor's  intentions  executed,  in  feeding  them  in  the 
fireets.  The  butchers  and  bakers  often  fet  afidc  a 
fmall  portion 'to  beftow^upon  thefe  animals :  yet  with 
all  their  charity,  the  Turlts  hate  dogs,  and  never  fuf- 
fcr  diem  in  their  houfes  ;  and  in  a  time  of  peftilence^ 
they  kill  as  many  as  they  Bnd,  thinking  thele  unclean 
creatures  infed:  the  air.  On  the  contrary,  they  love 
cats  very  well,  whether  it  be  for  their  natural  clean- 
linefs,  or  bccaufc  they  fympathife  with  ihemfelves  in 
gravity ;  whereas  dogs  are  wanton,  fporting>  and 
noily. 

*'  As  to  plants,  the  moft  devout  among  the  Turks 

waier  them  out  of  charity  i  and  cultivate  the  canh 

3  whciv 


where  they  grow,  that  they  may  thrive  the  better. 
The  good  muflulraen  believe  they  do  in  it  a  thing 
agreeable  to  God,  who  is  the  creator  and  preferver  of 
all  things." 

'  Even  though  we  (hould  make  a  fmall  matter  of 
allowance  tor  that  exaggeration,  whirh  a  gentleman 
mrghc  be  betrayed  into,  who  was  furprifcd  with  fo 
much  benevolence  and  humanity,  where  perhaps  he 
little  expetfted  to  find  them  j  enough  will  ftil!  remain  j 
and  the  concurrent  leftimony  of  others,  will  alcoge. 
thcr  fulHcicntly  eftablifti  the  faft,  of  the  Tyrks  being 
3  moft  humane  benevolent  people. 

'  The  Turks  appropriate  to  rhemfeh'cs  the  name 
of  Moflemim,  which  has  been  corrupted  into  Muf- 
fulman;  fignifying  perfons  profcfllng  the  doiflrine  of 
Mahomet.  They  alfo  term  thcmfelvcs  Sonnites,  or 
obfervers  of  the  oral  traditions  of  Mahomet  and  his 
three  fucceiTors  j  they  likcwifc  call  rhemfclvos  True 
Believers,  in  oppofition  to  the  Pcrfians  and  others, 
the  adherents  of  Ali,  whom  they  call  a  wicked  and 
abominable  feft.  Their  rule  of  faith  and  prs^Jce 
is  the  Koran. 

'  The  chief  ecclcfiaflic  is  the  mufti,  which  name 
fignifies  an  expounder  of  the  law,  and  his  office  is 
of  fuch  dignity,  that  when  he  comes  to  court,  the 
emperor  himfclf  rifes  from  his  teat,  and  advanc^y 
fcven  fteps  to  meet  him.  He  alone  has  the  hpnowr 
of  kiding  the  fulian's  left  Ihoulder  -,  while  the  grimit 
vizier,  with  a  more  profound  inclination  of  tlje  body, 
kiflcs  only  the  edge  of  the  emperor's  velV,  who  adr 
vances  no  more  than  three  ftcps  to  meet  him.  'Jhff 
law  requires,  that  the  mufti  Ihuuld  be  confulied  on 
r^all  emergencies,  particularly  irj  thofc  relating  t'>  peace 
tnd  war  i  but  the  peculiar  regard  now  fhewn  to  hjrn 
B  little  more  than  mere  form :  for  were  he  either  co 
c  a  difagrettiblc  interpretation  of  the  law,  gr,  whilo 
1  council,  tu  prcfumc  to  travcrfe  the  emperor's  dp- 
gtu,  he  would  be  inftantly  dcpofed^  and  his  platf 


E  I 


fup- 


52        THEVENOTs  TRAVELS 

fupplied  by  one  of  a  more  compilable  difpofitionw 
On  convidion  of  treafon,  or  any  other  capital  crime, 
he  is  put  into  a  mortar,  kept  for  that  purpofc  in  one 
of  the  fcven  towers  at  Conltannnoplc,  and  pounded 
to  death. 

•  '  The  reverend  Dr.  Bufching  obfervcs,  that  as  the 
mofti  of  the  Turks  may  be  compared  to  the  pope, 
fo  acsdalifker,  vho  is  a  iecular  perfon,  is  not  unlike 
a  patriarch:  a  molaanfwerstoan  archbifhop;  acadjr, 
who  is  alfo  a  layman,  maybe  accounted  a  bifhop  t 
and  an  iman,  a  pricft,  whofc  chief  empJoymcnt  is 
praying. 

*  The  Turks  have  alfo  their  convents,  and  monks 
under  the  general  name  of  dervifes,  the  chief  of 
which  are  the  bektalhi,  mebclevi,  cadri,  and  fegati  •, 
whofe  forms  of  worfhip  chiefly  confift  in  certain  re- 
ligious dances. 

'  The  Turks  at  prefent  avoid  all  appearance  of  pro- 
pagating their  religion  by  fire  and  fword  ;  and  the 
Chriftians  of  various  fcfts,  who  refide  anlongft  them, 
enjoy  full  liberty  of  confcience,  and  live  in  much 
greater  tranquillity  than  among  feme  who  ftilc  them- 
fdves  Chriftidns. 

*  The  Greek  church  in  this  part  of  the  world  has  at 
its  head  the  patriarch  of  Conftantinop!'-,  who  is  chofea 
by  the  neighbouring  archbilhops  and  metropolitans, 
and  confirmed  by  the  emperor  or  the  grand  vizier. 
This  is  a  perfon  of  great  dignity,  he  being  the  prin- 
cipal of  all  the  Greek  patriarchs,  and  the  head  and 
dircftor  of  the  eallern  church.  His  revenue  amounts 
to  no  lefs  than  a  hundred  and  twenty  thoufand  guil- 
ders, one  half  of  which  he  pays  by  way  of  annual  tri- 
bute to  the  Ottoman  Porle,  adding  fix  thcufand  guil- 
ders befides,  by  way  of  prefent  at  ihe  feaft  of  Bairam. 
Subordinate  to  him  are  fcventy  archbifhops  and 
metropolitans,  and  a  much  greaternumberof  bifhops. 
The  Armenians  have  many  churches  in  this  coun- 
try J  the  Jews  and  Roman  catholics  have  alfo  the  free 

CXCTQiifi 


TO   THE   LEVANT.  53 

rKCTcife  of  iheir  religion,  and  the  Swedes  have  been 
permitted  to  build  a  Lutheran  church  at  Conftanti- 
fiople. 

'  The  Turks  are  not  without  learning,  having  fome 
fchools,  colleges,  and  academies,  by  them  called  me- 
daris  ;  but  tUefe  arc  generally  interior  to  ihofe  among 
the  Chriftians,  and  their  management  of  thcin  atlb 
vei-y  diffl-rcnc.  Lately  a  Turkifn  printing-office  lias 
been  fet  up  at  Conltantinople  by  Ibrahim  Effl-ndi, , 
wlio,  after  great  oppofition,  obtained  Jcave  to  print 
all  kinds  ot  books,  except  on  matters  of  religion. 
He  aifo  publilhed  fome  maps,  and  book;  of  hiltory 
and  geography,  and  is  faid  to  havehad  aconfidcrabi? 
knowlege  of  the  Latin'  tongue. 

'  Literature,  however,  is  not  fo  rare  among  the 
Greeks,  who  have  not  only  fchools  for  inftru^tjng 
children  in  the  principles  of  religion,  as  reading,  writ- 
ing, and  learning  by  heart  the  pfalms  and  pafuges  of 
fcripturc,  but  have  alto  univerfirics.  The  Itate  of 
learning,  indeed,  among  tlie  Greeks,  js  at  prefent  at 
a  very  low  ebb,  in  comparifou  of  what  it  is  among 
US;  but  it  ought  to  be  remembered,  thjt  they  are 
deftitute  of  the  fame  means  and  opportunities  of  men» 
lal  improvement.  As  to  phyftc,  tlic  Greeks  eichcr 
learn  tJ-om  the  Arabic,  Jewilh,  or  Cliriftian  phyfi- 
cians  reiiding  among  thcin;  or  die  lludy  in  the  uni- 
verijtii-'s  in  Germany,, Holland,  orEnglind. 

'  The  ottoman  government  is  very  well  charaiHer- 
ized  by  M,  Tuurncfort  in  the  following  paHat^eSi  by 
which  it  will  appear  Ko.v  neccflacy  it  is  in  our  prefent 
enquiry,  to  diftinguilh  between  the  goveromcnt  and 
the  people. 

"  Thofe,  who  do  natrcflefton  tht;,original  of  this 
empire,  dilcerii  at  firit  fight,  that  the  iurkiOi  go- 
vernment is  extreamiy  fcverc,  and  almoft  tyrannical; 
but  if  we  confidcr  iliat  it  began  in  war,  and  that  the 
firft  ottomans  were,  from  father  to  fon,  the  moft  for- 
midable conquerors  of  th'-'ir  age,  wc  Jhall  not  be  fur- 
E  3  prifed, 


54        rHEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

prifed>  that  they  fet  tio'  other  limits  to  their  pcnrer 

than  mccrly  their  will. 

"  Could  it  be  cxpeSed  that  princes,  who  owed 
their  greatricfs  folely  to  their  own  arms,  fhould  di* 
Veft  thcmrelves  of  their  right  of  conqucft,  in  6iTOur 
of  their  Q^ves  ?  It  ii  natural  for  an  empire  which  is 
founded  in  a  time  of  peace,  and  the  people  pf  whick 
make  choice  of  a  chief  to  govern  them,  to  be  mild 
and  gentle,  afid  the  authority  of  it  may,  in  a  man- 
ner, be  divided  and  Oiared  ;  but  the  iiiA  fultans  owed 
their  promotion  purely  to  their  own  valour,  and  bef 
ing  full  of  maxims  of  war,  affefted  to  have  a  blind 
obedience,  to  piinifh  with  feverlty,  to  keep  their 
rubje<5ls  undi'r  an  unability  to  revolt;  and  iii  a  word, 
to  be  ferved  only  by  perfons  who  ftood  indebted  to 
them  ibr  their  fortune,  whom  they  could  advance 
■wichout  jealoufy,  and  crufli  without  danger." 

*  Tl'.is  much  may  fuffice  as.  to  the  maxirtis  on 
which  this  empire  was  BHl  founds,  and  flill  fubAfts ; 
the  cffefts  of  it  will  not  be  difficult  tQ  conceive.* 

"  Though  the  Turks,  fays  M.  Tbumefort,  ima- 
gined God  gives  prudence,  and  the  other  neceflary 
talents,  to  thofe  whom  the  fultan  raifes  to  high  em- 
ployments i  experience  often  teftifies  the  contrary. 
What  capacity  can  pages  have,  who  are  trained  up 
among  eunuchs,  who  treat  them  with  the  bafttnado 
for  fo  long  a  time  ?  Would  it  not  be  better  to  pro^ 
mote  youth  by  degrees.  In  an  cmpirt'where  no  regard 
Is  had  to  birth  ?  Bcfidc,  thefe  officers  pafs  at  a  ftep, 
from  a  ftate  of  the  ucmoft  uneafmefs  and  conftratnr, 
to  fuch  an  extraordinary  liberty,  that  it  is  impoffibli 
tJiey  Ihould  not  let  loofe  their  paffions ;  and  yet  they 
are  entruftcd  with  the  government  of  the  moft  im- 
portant provinces.  As  they  have  neither  abilities  nof 
experience  to  perform  the  duties  of  their  charge^ 
they  truftf  to  their  deputies,  who  are  commonly  great 
1-obbcrs,  or  fpies  of  the  grand  vifier,  to  fend  him  aii 
account  of  their  conduft.    Thefe  new  governors  sat 

forced 


TO  THE   LEVANT.  55 

forced  alfo  to  pafs  through  the  hands  of  the  Jews ; 
for  as  [hey  have  nothing  when  they  come  from  the 
fcraglio,  ihey  have  recourfe  to  thofe  ufurers,  who 
lead  them  to  ail  manner  of  rapine  and  extortion, — 
This  evil  would  not  be  lb  extream,  if  they  would  be 
concent  to  receive  it  again  by  little  and  little;  but  as 
they  are  afraid  every  moment  the  balTa  fliould  be 
ftranclcd  or  removed,  they  never  let  a  debt  grow  old, 
and  the  people  muft  be  fqueezed  to  repay  them. 

"  Under  fuch  circumftances  it  is  Evident,  that  no- 
thing can  be  permanent  at  the  Ottoman  Porte,  and 
that  It  is  a  wheel  incefiantly  turning." 

*  The  dominion  of  the  fultan  is  acknowleged  in 
three  of  the  four  quarters  of  the  earth,  as  follows : 

'  Turkey  in  Europe,  a  part  of  the  anlient  Chriltian 
empire  of  the  eaft,  atprefcnc  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Croatia,  Sclavonia,  and  Tranfylvania  -,  on  the  eaft 
by  Poland,  RulTia,  and  Afia  1  on  the  fouth  by  the 
Mediterranean  fea;  and  on  the  weft  by  rlie  Adriatic 
and  Dalmatia.  The  extent  is  not  ro  be  afcertainej 
■with  any  precifion.  It  contains  the  following  provin- 
ces; to  the  fouth  are  the  Morea,  or  PeloponnefuSj 
Achaia,  Theffaly,  Epirus,  Albania,  and  Macedonisj 
and  toward  the  north,  Romania,  Bulg;atia,  Beflara- 
bia,  part  of  Podolia,  Servia,  part  of  Hungary,  part 
of  Croatia,  Bofnia,  and  pare  of  Dalmatia.  Turkey 
in  Afia,  which  is  divided  inio  Eaftern  and  Wellern. 
The  Eaftern,  contains  Diarbeck,  Turcomania,  and 
Georgia ;  the  Weftern  comprehends  Arabia,  Palef- 
tine,  Syria,  and  Anatolia.  In  Africa,  the  Turkilh 
government  extends  over  Egypt;  and  nominally  over 
Algiers,  Tunis,  Tripoli,  and  Barca. 

*  The  titles  of  the  emperor,  according  to  the  cuf- 
tom  of  the  Eaft,  are  very  prolix  and  magnificent,  as 
will  appear  from  the  following  fpecimen.  We,  the 
fcrvant  and  lord  of  the  moft  honoured  and  blefled 
cities,  the  venerable  houfes  and  facrtd  places,  before 
which  all  nations  bow  ;  of  Mecca,  which  God  dc- 
£  4  lights 


56        THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

lights  to  honour ;  of  the  relplcndid  Medina,  and  cIm 
^oly  city  oi  Jcmiak-iii ;  of  the  imperial  and  defirable 
ci:ics  of  Conil^ntir.opl-,  Aiirianople,  and  Bui:ft, 
emperor-,  -ho  of  Babylon,  Diimafcus,  of  the  .fn-> 
gran:  I'^radifv,  2:.J  the  incomparable  Egypt ;  of  air- 
Arabia,  -■\l.:pi)o,  Antioch,  and  many  other  htghljr 
cekbrated  and  la.morab.c  places,  cities,  and  faithful 
vaiiils,  err.pvrr.r  i  cirpcror  of  empcrors,  (he  moft 
gracious  a:ifl  dl-powciful  lultan,  &c. 
'  The  TurkiOi  arms  are  a  crefcent. 
'  In  the  lliccirflion  to  the  empire,  no  regard  is  paid 
to  age  or  birih-right,  the  Turks  eftceming  it  iuffi- 
cient,  if,  in  their  ejeclions,  they  keep  to  the  Ottoman 
family :  but  v-'omcn  arc  excluded  from  the  throns. 
Though  the  government  is  purely  monarchical  and 
defpotic,  yet  if  tlie  emperor  takes  no  care  to  indulge 
the  humours  of  the  people,  and  efpccially  of  the  tnu-  ' 
tinous  janizaries,  he  is  not  only  in  danger  of  being 
dcpofed,  but  alfo  of  being  murdered.* 

Lady  Mountague  obferves,— '  The  government 
here  is  entirely  in  the  hands  of  the  army.  The  grand 
fignior,  with  all  his  abfolute  power,  is  as  much  a 
flavc  as  any  of  his  fubjcfts,  and  trembles  at  a  janiza- 
ry's frown.  Here  is,  indeed,  a  much  greater  ap- 
pearance of  fubiciSion  than  amongft  us  ;  a  minifter  of 
Hate  is  net  fpoke  to,  but  upon  the  knee  i  Ihouid  a 
reflc'dion  on  his  conduft  be  drcpt  in  a  cofTee-houfc, 
(for  ti'.ty  have  Kiies  every  where)  the  houfc  would  be 
razfd  [0  I'le  gri^und,  and  perhaps  the  whole  company 
pur  to  the  torture.  No  huzzaing  mobf,  fcnielcfs 
pan.piilt'.s,  aiul  tavern  difputes  about  politics.  But 
vhcn  a  rrrir.'ii^:-r  here  difpleaics  the  people,  in  three 
hours  time  lie  ;s  dragged  even  from  his  mailer's  arms. 
Tix-y  cue  off  his  hands,  head' and  feet,  and  throw 
them  before  the  palace-gate,  with  all  the  refpcct  in 
the  world;  wiiiie  the  fukan  (to  whom  they  all  pro- 
fcfs  ail  uuiiniited  adoration)  fits  trembling  in  his  apart- 
ment, and  tbres  ntiihcr  defend  nor  revenge  his  fa- 
vourite. This  is  the  blcfled  condition  of  the  moft 
abfolute 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


S7- 


tbfolute  monarch  upon  earth,  who  gwna  no  hv  but 
his  will.' 

*  With  refpeft  to  the  national  revenues,  they  are 
returnable  to  two  treatirits  -,  the  public  trcafury,  an4 
the  treafury  of  tlie  mufTuimcn.  The  public  ire»-  ' 
fury  is  under  the  management  of  the  ict'terdar*' 
pr  high  trcafurcr,  who  has  under  him  twelve  offices, 
to  which  all  ihc  revenues  of  iht  empire,  arifing  from 
tributes,  cuftoms,  &c.  are  returniible,  and  out  of 
which  the  army  is  paid.  The  treafurt-r  is  allowtJ  five 
percent,  of  all  the  nioncy  bmugh:  into  the  trcafury, 
which  muft  btiiig  him  in  ac  lealt  200,000  dollars  an- 
nually. One  fourth  of  the  money  he  receives  he  pays 
to  the  kietchudabeg,  or  kahya,  who  is  the  gran^!  vi- 
zier's comminiry,  and  above  the  tcfcerdar.  The 
money  of  this  ireafurj,  called  the  public  inoncy  of 
the  mufllilmen,  is  not  to  be  touched  by  the  emperor 
but  in  the  grcaceft  exigency,  much  Icfs  for  private 
occaCons.  The  fukan\  private  treafury,  which  he 
difpofes  of  according  to  his  own  pleafure,  is  under 
the  care  of  the  hafnadar  bafchi,  who  is  the  next  pcr- 
fon  in  rank  to  the  kidar  in  the  fcraglio.  Frincc  Oan- 
temir  fays,  that  in  his  time,  27,000  purfcs,  amounting 
to  ihirucn  millions  and  a  half  of  rix-dollars,  wcic 
annually  returned  to  both  trcafuric;.  The  confifca- 
lions  of  die  cftaies  ami  fffcds  of  tlie  bafliai,  and  other 
officers,  together  with  the  money  arifing  from  the 
efcheats  of  Tuiks  dying  without  male-iliuc,  maiic 
alfo  a  very  confider.ible  urticle.' 

The  money  current  at  Conrtanilnoplc  is,  the  man- 
gour,  which  is  half  a  qnadriii,  copper-nwney,  and 
fix  of  thc:m  mjkc  an  afper.  whi^h  is  a  Uulc  piece  of 
niver,  ftaniped  with  iht:  grand  figiiior's  name,  and 
worth  eight  deniers,  cir  three  farthings  Ilerling.  The 
ifoletic  is  worth  fifty- five  afper?.  The  ii/liUii,  or  Ger- 
man rix-dollar,  Co  called  beca'jfe  it  is  ftjmpeJ.  with 
a  hon,  in  'lurkifh  afl-in,  is  worth  eighty-  aipcrs,  and 
rhepiaftre,  orpicade,  ninety.  The  Tutkith  cl,:;quin  is 
yyyxih  two  piaftres,  and  the  Venetian,  ten  afbcrs  niorc 

The 
9 


58       THEVENOr«  TRAVELS 

The  ifpen  irc  mtny  of  them  coumerftit.  Tltdr 
we^hts  «rc  the  quirac,  which  is  four  gnuas,  and  Gx' 
teen  of  them  make  a  drachm;  the  medical  ii  i 
diachm  and  a  half,  twelve  drachms  make  an  ounce  ^ 
the  rone  is  twelve  ounces »  the  oque  is  three  rottes, 
or  four  hundred  drachms  ^  and  the  cantar  is  an  huo- 
died  and  fifty  rottes. 

As  a  Ipecimen  of  the  haughty  ftile  ufed  bjr  the 
ottoman  fultans,  we  fhall  here  entertain  the  reader 
with  a  cartel,  equally  infolent  and  extravagant,  fenc 
by  Solyman  I.  etnperor  of  the  Turks,  to  Mariniiliaa 
U.  emperor  of  the  Germans. 

"  By  connivance  of  the  great  God  in  heaven,  we 
Solyman,  god  on  earth,  great  and  fublime  emperor 
of  all  the  world>  lord,  mafter,  and  difpofer  of  all 
the  followers  of  Chrift  i  we  fend  and  declare  unto 
thee,  Maximilian,  indignation,  misfortune,  and  in- 
fidelity to  thee  and  thy  princes,  fubjeds  and  adlw< 
rents.  We,  moreover,  give  thee  to  know,  that  we, 
by  the  fuStn^nce  of  the  great  God,  ftiled  on  earth 
tae  perpetual  and  univerial  God,  moil  mighty  em- 
poor,  foldan  of  Babylon,  lord  of  Armenia,  the 
mightieft  in  Perfepotis  and  Numidia,  the  great  auxi- 
liary of  God,  prince  in  Barbary,  even  unto  the 
nwuntains  of  Achaia  -,  king  of  kings,  from  the  me- 
ridian to  the  pole,  horn  the  rifing  of  the  fun  to  the 
lening  thereof,  the  firft  and  chief  placed  in  the  para- 
dife  ^  Mahomet,  the  fcourge  of  Chriflendom  and 
Chriftians,  keeper  and  defender  of  the  fepulchre  of 
tiiy  God  crucified,  the  only  viAorious  and  triumphant 
lord  of  all  the  world,  and  of  all  circuits  and  pro- 
vinces thereof :  thou,  Maximilian,  who  ftilefl  thyfelf 
king  of  our  kingdom  of  Hungary,  we  will  vifit  thee 
fot  that  caufe,  and  make  thee  acquainted  with  our 
flrength  of  thirteen  kingdoms,  collefted  into  one 
hundred  thoufand  horfe  and  foot,  prepared  for  war, 
with  all  the  power  of  Turkilh  munition,  fuch  as  thou, 
nor  any  of  thy  fervants  have  feen,  heard,  or  had  know- 
lege  of  i  and  this  even  before  thy  chirfcity  Vienna. 

"We, 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


59 


J  Solyman,  god  on  earth,  in  defiance  of  th 
thy  adKerents,  and  abettors,  do,  with  our  warlike'! 
ftrength,  pronounce  and  intend  thine  and  their  utter'l 
deftrudion  and  depopulation,  by  every  poflibic  meam 
wc  can  devifc  ;  and  this  we  fignify  unto  thee,  to  the 
end  that  thou  and  thy  miferable  people  may  prepare 
yourielvcs  for  death  or  ruin :  with  us  it  is  determined, 
by  the  hands  of  our  janizaries,  to  ravage  and  (poil 
tnte,  and  all  thy  German  kingdoms  and  provinces. 
This  mifery  we  have  denounced  againft  ihee  and  thy 
princes:  have  thou  no  doubt  but  we  will  come. 
Dated  in  the  year  of  our  reign  forty-fcven,  in  the  city 
of  Conftanrinople,  from  which  we  did  expel  thy  pre- 
deceflbrs,  their  wives,  children,  and  friends,  and 
made  them  miferable  (laves  and  captives." 

*  AU  thefe  tumid  menaces  evaporated  in  fmoke. 
Solyman,  it  is  true,  made  vaft  preparations  to- ;.T.-ade 
Hungary  with  a  powerful  army,  and  invcftcd  the  city 
of  Sigetn,  on  the  frontiers  of  Sclavonia,  which  was 
defended  by  count  Scrini  at  the  head  of  a  numerous 

farrifon.     Solyman  did  not  live  to  fee  the  place  rc- 
uced,  but  died  before  it  of  a  malignant  fever.    The 
vizier,  however,  continued  the  ficge,  and  the  place 
was  defended  to  the  laft  extremity  by  the  gallant  Sc- 
rini, who,  finding  it  impoCible  longer  to  wiihftand 
the  fury  of  the  aflailants,  made  a  fally  with  his  gar- 
rifon,  and  was  flain  with  all  his  followers.  The  vizier, 
having  entertained  his  foldiers  with  the  fight  of  Sc- 
rini's  head  upon  a  pole,  afterward  fent  it  to  count  <| 
Salm,  who  then  commanded  at  Raab,  together  witft  J 
this  (hort  billet :  "  In  token  of  my  love,  I  fend  thee  I 
the  head  of  a  moft  refoluie  and  valiant  commandeC,! 
thy  friend.     The  reft  of  his  body  I  have  deccn^J 
buried,  as  became  fuch  a  man.    Sigcth  bids  thee  fafei 
wel  for  ever."] 

Mr.  Thevenot  left  Conftantinople,  Auguft  50th, 

1656,    and  failed  in  a  faique  to  Moniagna,    from 

whence  he  rode  to  Burfa,  which  was  called  by  the 

antients  Prufia,  the  metropolis  of  the  antient  king- 

dom 


€o        THEVENOT's  TRAVELS 

dom  of  By  thinta,  and  which  was  the  capital  city  of  dw 
Turkilh  empire  in  the  reign  of  Orcan,  the  fon  of  Oi^ 
man  the  Arft  futtan,  who  took  it  in  the  yiSth  year  at 
the  hegyra,  and  in  the  ^ear  of  our  Lord  1325  ;  but 
it  was  taken  from  Bai^zet  by  Tamerlane.  It  is  about 
ten  miles  dittant  fronj  MountOlympus  ;  is  pleafantly 
iituated,  and  waiter  is  io  pkntiful,  that  befitfe  what 
they  hsve  in  their  dwelling- houfes,  they  have  fbuiu 
tains  in  their  houfes  of  oiEce  for  their  ablutnns. 
They  have  fome  Auters  that  run  through  the  town, 
fo  hot  as  to  boil  an  eg^-,  of  which  they  have  made 
leveral  bagnios,  which  lerve  for  the  cure  of  many 
diftempcrs,  and  people  come  above  too. miles  to 
wafh  in  them. 

Frc.m  Burla  he  went  to  Smyrni  with  the  caravan ; 
and  bccaufe  nothing  is  to  be  met  withal  upon  this 
'WjjH.huf.  water,  travellcis  miift  carry  all  their  provi* 
fions  and  houlhold-ltuff  along  with  them,  or  want 
both.  It  is  a  large  town,  and  well  inhabited  both 
by  Turks  and  Chriftians,  but  is  neither  pleafant  nor 
Arong.  It  is  commanded  by  a  c^flle,  at  the  bottom 
of  which  in  the  way  to  the  Grttk  church,  xalled  San- 
ta Veneranda,  is  a  great  amphitheatre,  where  St.  Po- 
lycarp,  St.  Joh;i's  ichcdar  and  biJhop  of  Smyrna,  fuf- 
fered  martyidom.  The  port  is  but  fmall,  but  the 
road  is  fpacious  and  faft.-,  and  has  a  caille  lately  built 
to  command  it.  By  the  road  ftands  the  cuftom-houfe, 
and  the  houfes  of  the  conluls,  merchants,  and  Franks, 
who  have,  for  the  mod  pare,  a  back-door  toward  the 
tea, 

Belide  Turks,  there  live  in  it  Chriftians  of  all 
coui;iries,  Greeks,  Armenians,  and  Latins.  The 
Grccii.i  have  two  churches,  the  iVrmcnians  have  alio 
two  churches,  aiu!  tlic  Latins  as  many.  The  country 
sbovit  it  is  pi:.in  snd  f.-rtile  in  olive- trees,  and  full  c^ 
gardens.  AH  ih;iig"i  there  arc  in  abundance,  and 
tlicir  wine  is  n;oft  excellent.  It  is  very  fubjcfl:  %o 
earthquakes,  which  happen  every  year,  and  often 
ruin  the  town ;  but  it  is  foon  rebuilt  again,  becaufc 

■  of 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


6t 


I  of  rfie  convenience  of  its  fuuarion.  The  air  in  funt-  , 
mer-timc  would  be  very  hot,  if  it  were  noc  for  thai 
low  wind,  or  north  breeze,  as  chey  call  it,  \Thich  n 
blows  regularly  every  day,  and  much  qualifies  the.-d 
heat. 

[We  have  a  more  correfl  account  of  this  city  ilk J 
Sir  George  Whceler'a  travels,  which  we  will  ad4  ift^ 
his  own  words.— — "  Smvrna  hath  lb  many  advatiiT 
tages  I'rom  its  natural  lituation,  that  net  with  ft:iodind  I 
the  great  cilamities  which  havj^  bet'allu  it  by  waf^  Jr 
and  earthquakes,  it  having  bct-n  na  k)"s  iHau  fix  timrfa  I 
overthrown  and  aimoft  utterly  rutiied :  y«  jt  hath., 
ftili  been  thought  worth  the  repairing,  and  rcftorinttJ 
to  all  the  beauty  the  art  of  its  inhabitants  cnuUl  cov  J 
trive  to  adorn  it  with,  k  as  fwuated  at  the  hotron 
of  a  bay,  eibeemed  twenty  miles  to-  i»  mouthi  rcciir<!ij  I 
with  high  mountains  on  every  fi^  Irom  ailwrhilt<j 
buttlie  welt;  whence  from  the  lea  they  can  reccivt.i 
no  damage. 

"  Smyrna  is  a.  place  of  great  antiquity,  and  is  rtf-J 
puted  to  have  had  the  Amazon  Sn^yrna  tbr  It^  toun^v 
drefs.     They  therefore  ftamjitd  their  money  with  the  J 
figure  of  her  head.    Hfcre  is  4  groat  nuinbev  of  Ghfif" 
tians  of  all  nations,  fcifts  and  languages.     H'Ue  La 
church  hath  a  monaftcry  of  Frarttirt-jns  itlie  Art 
nians  have  one  church  ;  but  iht  E-ngltlh,  wh'ch  ai*4 
the  moftconfideraWc  in  numbejt next  the  Gr«^ks-ati&«j 
Armenians,  have  only  a  chapel  in  the  contul's  h  >ulV)ij| 
which  is  a  Ihame,  contK!«ring  ih«-  gr(.-.,t  *!aUh  (h-ij^-iS 
heap  up  here  beyond  all  ihe  reft:    ycc  thcycom-jT 
mitnly  excel  rhetn  in  their  paflor  j  f&r  I  eft'em  a  gc»d  i 
Englifh  pricft  an  evangeliit,  il  compared  J^i-fi  any  of  J 
the  reft,    f  he  Hoi!,  iidera,  I  bi-lieve,  next  tu  (t^  Kn-^d 
lifli,    are    more    numerpus    than    any  nspirm  of  the 
Fr.tnks,  and  take  no  moro  cjpe,  ai   I  c»vikl  Isafo, 
of  ihcir  religioiK  worftiip.     Bnt  es  to  tride.  n-^ne 
ftriv«  to  outvy  each  other  fo  rfiuch  a?  the  I'  a^lifii  and 
Hollanders,  wljereof  Smyrna  aftd  Alc-f-po  ate  a&» 
the  ch.cf  places  in  the  Levaat.     Ibt  ir-xiewaii^ 

nxriy 


6i        THEVENOn  TRAVELS 

merly  proxy  well  dirided  between  them  ;  but  Boa 
their  war  wjth  the  ircndi*  the  Kitg^ifh  have  i 
the  ereater  pan  of  it. 

'J  he  chief  ccmimcrcc  confifti  in  raw  and  Pcrfian  fiiks, 
cnxji'arTm  berth  in  ]rarn and  alio  woven,  brought  b^  ox 
Perliarii  Mvi  Armenian! ;  and  much  cotton,  raw  aa^ 
made  in  jram,  Ace.  wfiich  gr'/weth  all  about  tfade 
countriev,  nrvi  the  iflamJi  of  the  Archipelago,  bciii^ 
brought  bjf  the  Orctkt  and  7  urk*  to  be  {(^  boc 
The  £n|^lifh  fUUtry  amfifi*  of  fouricorc  or  an  bi»- 
dred  perlonf,  moft  of  ihem  younger  fons  lo  sa* 
ilemen,  who  give  three  or  four  hundred  poaii£  e 
ibme  Krcai  merchant  of  the  J-evant  compuy,  aad 
bind  tVir  font  af/t/rrnti'^ct  f«>r  feven  jrem  t  [hree 
whereof  they  fcrvc  at  JxHidon,  to  underftand  their 
maftert  cunccrni,  and  then  their  maftert  are  obliged 
to  lend  them  to  negotiate  in  thde  |>arti,  and  to  nod 
chem  bufifief*,  out  tjf  which  they  are  allowed  a  cer* 
tain  Turn  per  cent.  There,  by  their  induftry  in  traffic 
for  thcmlelves,  alfo  upon  fjood  pjtinn,  but  little  I06, 
they  live  genteelly,  bec/;me  rich,  and  ^et  great  eftatet 
in  a  Ihort  time,  if  they  will  be  Injt  inilincrent  good 
hufbanda,  and  careful  of  their  own  and  their  owned 
bufineff."] 

Ephefus  lie*  not  above  f'lurtcen  or  fifteen  leagua 
from  Smyrna.  Jn  the  way  it  a  vilU^^e  called  Sede- 
qui,  about  three  league*  from  Smyrna,  fttuated  in  s 
very  pleafant  country  1  for  which  tezUai  the  Euro- 
pcan  confuU  uf  .Smyrna  have  iheir  (.ountry-hotHci 
there,  and  frequently  retire  rhii !i'-r  t<»  divert thcmfetrei 
with  hunting.  'X'hc  rcfl  of  tlic  w^iy  irom  Scdequi  to 
Ephefus  is  over  a  very  ulca(aiit  at»d  larj^e  plain. 
Ephefus,  once  fo  noted  a  ciiy,  w  tvrM  nothing  but  * 
confufcd  heap  of  rubbiJh,  I'Iclci  of  marble,  JemO' 
lilhed  walls,  broken  columni  ami  f  lia[rtert.  That 
part,  which  is  ai  prefent  iiihabiu:<l,  \\  buundf:d  on  the 
caft  with  a  large  plain,  whith  tcukrx  t%  fu  a>  the 
Archipelago,  and  on  the  fidei  with  Uiuh  hilb.  I'he 
moft  remarkable  thing  in  it  ia  tliv  old  church  of  St. 

jtfho 


by 

I    -..-con 

i 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  63 

John  the  evangclift.  The  Turks  have  converted  it 
into  a  mofque,  have  added  a  minaret,  and  adorned  it 
after  their  faihion ;  but  the  greateft  rarides  of  it, 
when  it  was  a  church,  were  carried  to  Conftantinople 
to  I'ultan  Solyman,  to  adorn  the  mofque  he  had  ereft- 
ed  there.  The  catlle  ftands  on  a  hill  juft  by  it,  and 
has  a  very  ancient  tower  ftlU  Handing,  on  the  top  of 
which  is  a  very  curious  piece  of  fciUpture,  or  baflb- 
relievo,  which,  as  feme  fay,  rcprefcnts  the  hiftory  of 
the  famous  Roman,  Marcus  Curius  ;  but  others  lay, 
the  deftruftion  of  Troy.  The  truth  is,  none  dare 
come  near  enough  to  take  an  exaft  view  of  it,  and  lb 
they  only  guefs  at  it.  In  pafling  it,  you  may  dif- 
cern  three  pieces  of  marble,  one  reprefencs  Bauhmal, 
the  fecond  a  man  fallen  dead  from  his  horfe ;  a 
perfon  in  a  Icnator's  habit  standing  by,  leems  to  la- 
ment the  accident  j  and  the  third  is  ibe  figure  of  a 
dead  body  laid  out  ready  for  interment. 

A  large  inclofure,  where  aniiently  flood  the  temple 
of  Diana,  has  nothing  remaining  of  it,  but  one  large 
gate,  much  ruined  and  defaced.  Within  it,  on  the 
north  fide,  is  engraven  on  a  ftone  a  man  on  horfcback, 
with  a  dog  by  him,  and  a  ferpent  twifled  round  a 
tree.  On  the  fouth-fide  are  two  infcriptions,  but 
[hey  are  fo  mingled,  that  their  meaning  is  not  to  be 
gue0ed  at.  Not  far  from  Ephefus  lies  an  idand  cal- 
led Scala  Nova,  but  by  the  Turks,  Cous-Adafi,  or 
the  Ifland  of  Birds.  Here  are  the  richeft  Mufcadine 
wines  made,  of  all  the  iflands  of  the  Archipelago. 

From  .Smyrna  Mr.  Thcvenot  went  for  a  diverfion 
to  fee  the  wonders  of  Chio,  fo  much  talked  of  through- 
out all  Afia,  Tim  iHand,  which  may  be  called  the 
paradile  of  Greece,  is  governed  by  ChnlVans,  though 
under  the  authority  ot  the  Turks,  who  command  in 
fniall  matters.  The  people  obtained  thefc  priviirgM 
by  fubmitting  voluntarily  to  Mahomet  II.  when  he 
conquered  Greece  ;  and  ihc  Turks  fuffcr  them  to  en- 
joy them  without  controul.  Up  and  down  the  coun- 
arc  fcveral  churches,  belonoiDg  cither  to  the  p^ 
pifh 


64.        THEVENOT'a  TRAVELS 

pi(h  biOiops  or  monks ;  bu.  uk  Gredci  have  manjf 
more  in  fcveral  places,  th*.*  I  atin  thnrchcs  being  rcck^ 
oned  but  )Oi,  but  the  Or  .  . .  .',0  •  rhey  are  all  wdl 

tcivtdt  a.'ld  divine  fervicc  i.i  p  rifjriiicU  with  as  mtnf 
ceremonies  as  if  it  were  in  the  Uaan  or  Chiiftendooii 
for  the  Turks  moleft  them  not. 

This  idand  produces  great  quancitiel  of  mafKcj 
They  prick  the  trees  in  the  monrhs  of  Auguft  and 
September,  and  the  mattic,  wliirh  is  their  gum,  fvtcmt- 
ing  out  by  the  holes  made  in  rlie  bark,  runs  down 
the  tree,  and  falls  upon  tlic  {/ruund.  There  ic  con- 
geah  into  flat  pk-ccs,  which  they  gather  fome  time 
after,  am)  lay  it  in  the  fun  to  dry,  and  then  range  ami 
ihake  them  in  a  fi.  vc  to  Iciiaraic  the  duft  from  thetn) 
which  fo  f'.xks  to  rlic  race,  of  thtifc  that  do  it,  that 
it  cannot  be  gvn  oif  but  by  riii)binfT  their  faces  with 
oil.  Tbcie  viilaf  r;  pfiduce  al>ovc  1000  chcfts  of 
malUc,  of  wliicli  thi.-y  |ny  to  the  grand  llgnior  yearly 
goo  cheftj,  or  ;?oo  wij^ht ;  fvcry  villaf.;e  being  al- 
Icflud  accordinf^to  tlieir  qiiai-iity  of  trees ;  and  the 
reft  they  arc  oblifjcd  to  Icll  ot  a  certain  rate,  to  the 
farmer  of  t!ic  cuUr-nis.  'J  iiLs  iiiallic  is  by  Diofcoridcs 
allowed  to  be  tlic  bell-  in  the  world,  thouf^h  it  grows 
alfo  in  other  placci.  It  is  a  white  gum,  which  cmen 
into  the  c')m])(jliti«:i  of  many  ointments ;  and  the 
Greeks  ufc  to  tli-.-w  it  n-,uch,  bitaule  it  makes  them 
fpit,  whitcrjs  their  tfit!;,  and  fwceicns  thtir  breath-: 
they  put  it  alfo  in  tiitir  lircad  to  make  it  more  deli- 
cate. 

The  chief  town  of  this  ifiir  is  of  the  fimc  name. 
It  hath  {;o<>-.l  houliis,  and  tlie  llrtct*  are  wide  enough 
for  coaches :  it  is  niJt  hrt'c,  but  well  pt-oplcd,  and 
moft  part  of  the  inli-.bitancs  arc  Chriflians,  either 
Greeks  or  Latins,  who  li:ivf  each  of  them  a  bifhop^ 
and  feveial  churche-i  -,  but  the  Cirecks  have  moft  by 
f,.r.  They  have  dib  ir.i\:\y  convene-,  of  nuns,  but  not 
fo  ftriftly  ihut  up  but  liwt  men  may  come  at  them, 
and  they  will  be  kind  to  tlicm,  (ijmetimcs  even  be- 
yond the  bounds  of  CiiriiUiin  charity,     i'hcy  may 

leave 


Tlis  •faak  ik^  b  w^  §*f&m€ 

fct  woaU  be  «ei7  fiaefc  vac  k  wfc  i 

toadtc 

nddsGormMd  i  _ 

fike  i^  facoMfr,  ikcT  frr,  tfccy  i 
diiok  it.  AM  tkim^mc  tiiaf  Aae^  mA  em 
pvvidgammf  befadnrSHfearaidiBg;  fi 
keep  man  one  Bat  onftoi  lad  ka^  hn^ai 
(IfivcdKm  oocia  devaoMi^  aad  aiaifed 
ttaightt  »fciAqa<fccy  ria^i  afcgt.  IW  i 
ouKs  of  dw  iifaBd  vt  ife  cm' 

The  Qoocs  anlie  mmM  < 
fttftum,  awl  odxr  M  taTi.  aad  4nK  a  nadBv" 
may  ihocs  widi  nor  6b|mb«  ins>  0  GcaBdOHo^ 
udtfaemritiaRcnBafBKtafraidKaiBfea.  Sk& 
ss  m  aot  otifiged  m  nlow  faufac^  fit  vAafe^iyv 
under  the  pas  oljig  «geik.r.    LaniBgH«Kfl£ 
ufe  in  du  ooonttys  ftx  dbrr  hairBHun^a 
wk,  lb  itmio  (VDid  dieir  4' 
KadiKcdcif  all  i»efaabaaK] 

Tbe  Cbiou,  both  mcb  aad  « 

ill  nignc  pmnuoBOQBfi  ood at  nee 
and  a  fbwgcris  frecif  aOimed  BopaHsv^c 
Thejr  ate  00c  at  stt  jaioWr  but  A^  mmmtm 
nuids  are  aUowtd  bd  fbad  ji  cfanr  da  an  a  fcc  a 
talk,  wirb  Oich  men  as  pi6  bf  i  aad  ^cbev  vol  i 
merry  and  iuci&irwkbftnQfpsi,  at  i£  tSxy  faad  bcca  ' 
a«)iiamGed  with  diea  iB  dwr  dn«. 
Vflu  VI.  F 


66  TIIE\'ENOrs  TRAVELS 

Ar.cthcr  iC.e  of  the  Arrh-pebgo,  bordering  upon 
Afia,  is  Patino,  Palmofj,  or  Harinora,  antientty  Path- 
mo*.  It  is  but  1 8  niilrrs  in  compafs,  and  has  but  orf 
veil  built  tnwn  in  i^,  with  a  cslHc  in  the  middle  of  k, 
called,  1  h:  Mfindflcry  ot'Sr.  John,  v.-herc  200  Greek 
n-.onl:-,  Wv:.  .Sr.  John  ti  c  F-vanpcJIft  Ixring  b.-inilhe(i 
ir:io  il.ii  iilc,  is  Ti-d  v>  Iia/c  wrote  hrre  Ins  Rcvela- 
tiuns.  They  carcfnUy  l:c':p  in  th-ir  church  a  bocf? 
ftnit  up  in  a  'ai'.-,  which  they  affirm  to  be  the 
body  of  ^*t.  John ;  and  fhcv/  a  f?™'*"i  "^liere  rhey 
likcwile  fay  St.  John  wroTC  the  A()';C3l\pfc.  Theic 
are  about  ^orofbuls  in  the  iil:;  who  have  mwch  ado 
to  live,  the  iHtr  bciny  very  diy  an'l  rocky.  No  Turks 
livL-  in  tlic  ifland,  bur  the)-  art-  all  ChrJltians  who  pa? 
tribute  10  thf  grand  fii-nior.  'I  he  C'orr,iirs  put  into 
ihi';  illand  to  carfrn,  and  talic  iVcfh  wa-er. 

Tlif  i(^^•  nt  N'ixia,  :!nti'.!i  ly  N:iko<,  is  120  miles 
in  comj-^.is.  It  was.  fubjccl  t'>  iIh-  .Sani;:li  2nd  Soma- 
rigi,  Vi-;Ktij:i  dutic:.,  till  xhv  'I  iirl:s  hkjU  it  under 
the  t-mpcror  Sc^yn.us ;  yrt  tlierc  art-  ftill  in  it  feveral 
noble  f.:niilt<"!  tlrrccniVd  of  t!  ofc  duke*.  The  land  is 
fruitful  in  all  things,  but  irpi.cijlly  the  valky  of  Dar- 
n-.illa,  whi.  h  h?.%  18  villr.^e'-  Ky  the  ica-fide,  over 
agair.It  iHc  illand  of  Kiciria,  is  to  He  fecn,  upon  a 
vcrv  fVfcp  and  ru'/tii  d  mountain,  iime  ruins  of 
the  cadle  of  Ap'.'lloi  p.nd  it  is  a  v.-ond'.r  how  Oones 
could  be  not  up  lb  hicdi  to  build  it.  By  it  are  tour 
little  towns  well  inhabited. 

On  the  hills  hercabo'it  many  ji'iaf;  fctd  upon  an 
herb,  called  Ix-dum,  wliicli  I'.aws  a  kinil  of  vifcoui 
dew    upon    lhe:r    bi-ards,     that    ttir./i    if;to   a    gum, 
of  a  very  good  i'liitll,  called  L.ahdar.mn,  or  Lauda-    ' 
num,  and  is  {ruhiTc.i  by  ciittin<.^  nl)  ti;tir  beards. 

About  fix  M!!Ts  from  Nixia  l->  thr  i:le  of  I'aro,  an- 
tiendy  called  Paro^wliiijh  lias  threr  tr.fll's,  feveral  vil- 
lages, and  a  good  haibour  f(,r  all  ibits  of  vcllcls  ;  fair 
(hurchcs,  and  many  fircek  priefts  and  mtmks.  The 
antiquities  of  this  ide,  confiding  in  fcatui  s,  marble 

chefts, 
8 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  &r 

chefls,  &c.  were  curied  a«iy  bj  S2  c^g'^  £?=:i;- 
Dun,  who  tooic  sii  he  cou^  &r.c.  i-trc.  a  kcII  ij  tz 
Dcios,  now  called  Sedriik-,  where  wii  p'^-rr  ::  i-.r— ; 
but  now  ihfK  rexiins  buz  oos  ;x.i4s  ci"  i  w'-'-r, 
_ib  large  Uut  k  cuu:<;::  be  i:L-tikL  Thj  I^^  wi,-  :i- 
mous  ibr  i:s  noble  qi:arr<<  of  mr,";^,  iiii  i^r  i"? 
Oracle  of  Apotio  bcrecocore.  oj:  z<.m  ::  ;i  :he  r;;.:icT  ,:" 
diccofiairs.  Tf>e  ii'linJcf  Mr::sf,  a:;£-:z:iv  Nfy:r- 
nui,  was  ooce  a  well  peonei  ;-V,  cut  zc-k-  :»  £-c:: 
torbikcn,  beirau^  cf  ia=  rigorcji  ir-i^tiiicc  c:  :>.; 
Turks,     k  i>  abo^i:  Lirte  nifc;  rc::ri 

\Vc  pjb  over  levcnil  iCir.:.i -l:  ■.rz.r.zr  zct -.  n 
the  cnu:)ierjdon  ct  them  wo-_^  ij-rJ:a  virr  i.nl; 
either  of  inrbrmadon or  ea:fni:r.-..r::. 

From  Chio  Mr.  Thcver«:.c  u-hi  :-:3  E^ttt,  ir-i 
to  his  paflage^  ^''"^S  ^^  Dcr-Tf  :r.:  .J!;  c:  ii.T-,-:,  hr 
looJi  a  view  of  it.  1:  ii  jv;r>'  birrt::  r  j^inry,  O:.::^! 
famous  for  hsv;,-g  berr.  the  c!rLi-^!i:t  c:  Fy:-i£.j- 
ras,  Folycrjlcs,  and  tr?  SiDji:  1;  ii  =^1:7  — ^-.i  i-. 
circuir.  Overaga::tt  S*r::i,  ir.i  ^r£:;v  £:cj_-::, .-  :r; 
ille  of  Nic^rii,  i.-::£;.:;y  cii'.r  :  K^.-li,  ::.-.t.  I:^-..-:r 
fon  01  D.'c.ia'iUr.  It  -.i  o:  i  ::.-g  rg-:;.  .i-"i  :.".;  IltS 
is  very  dry  and  fuii  of  r-xks  ;-.  »!-.!;-.  iss  :h:  .-.i-^ir* 
cf  the  inhabtiar.r,  wh'>  arc  :r.  jji  :.■:,-:  :;oc  i_-.;f, 
vcr>'  poor  and  iil  cud. 

They  arc  much  add^Jirc  zz-  tf-].~.~-r=:.  ir.i  £.Li-.r 
up  fpo.igCi  and  wrc-li.i ;  a.i::  :,-.::  :i:zr.:  rr^^.  cr  ri- 
pas  in  tze  idr,  give  :'r.j:!r  ii_gh:iri  to  the  be:;  1*1:1:- 
mer,  which  is  trxd  fccfd-c  ;,-:=  di.T.i^i  zrd  r.;.-  fa- 
ther: he  that  caa  rt-niia  Is-gtlt  uaJer  wi:cr  aL"! 
t.he  maid.  They  piv  :r.c  g-.^.-^:  f;zr.:cr  :r.ij:e  ..t 
fpongcs.  TKcy  havc'.:r;;.i:^;  :.rr.i~g i':.:  :.;<-_  -r:? 
and  there,  and  thty  [r.iii-  c:*  ;h:  z'^^^'-  «  i.:r  .; 
white  wine,  as  clear  is --i;:::,  v.  i.  c:;  p;:";:  b-.  .-..e 
as  foon  as  it  is  arar.k.  T'.:-c  «.rr.  ij  ^l  ^  v...i  -.-..; 
honey,  they  traJe  w;th  to  C.-.io.  1  he  i  -./..o-rir.:-  ^-c 
well  ihapedand  tUcr.g.  Th;  cld  Gh'k  c  , :  j:  r,  :f 
Conftantinople  bamfiicG  pcrfcr..  ct  ^.-i:;  '.h.it  !iii 
ofiirndcd  them  in-o  this  iCx. 

F  z  Itivlr.x 


68         THEVENOrs  TRAVELS 

Leaving  Samos  he  came  lo  the  ifle  ot  Sunc^i<v 

othcrvll'c  caUcd  lioiz  Looga,  ninety  miles  di&ae 
tron  ::.  It  was  amienily  called  Coos,  is  fevcttr 
mites  :.i  circuit,  and  very  ffuirful,  d'pcctally  in  good 
wine.  On  tlie  pc::  by  the  fea-fide  is  a  pretty  good 
cafile,  where  the  Turlts  keep  garrifon.  The  ran 
lies  bfhinJ  it,  v>h:r?  there  is  a  prodieioui  tree  of  tfatf 
vafl  extent,  as  to  cover  2000  men  eafily,  the  branche*  ■ 
Vrcin^  fi^pp'jrtcd  with  many  (tones  and  wooden  p&- 
.  :h';fe  are  fevera!  barbcrs-ftiops,  coffec^houfei; 

'i  l:kc  places,  befidc  benches  to  lit  on,  under 

It  w.is  aiiLi'-ntiy  famous  for  the  temple  of  .^fcti- 
i./iui,  and  ih:  births  of  IJippocrates  the  prince  <tf 
phy:".t:ar.^,  and  Ai;c!les  the  prince  of  painters.  The 
knights  of  Malta  '.'x\d  it,  v.h-n  they  were  mafters  of 
Rhodes,  and  il-.ere  are  ilili  r/anymonuments  remaining 
in  jr.  Stranper;  here  are  nrirc  regarded  by  the  womea 
than  h  era:r;:bl  to  t;>c:r  I.LiIhar.ds, 

He  fa;c\;  r,cx:  to  t lie  tz-i.-^  of  Bodrnu,  which  lies 
ovvr  zjriinii  Stir.c/.io,  a:  1  7.  iv,  k-s  diftance.  Thoo 
i".  a  good  port,  but  h  fiiV.z  v.p  with  dirt,  that, great 
fhips  canrii.r  c^rt  in:o  it.  Y<..u  enter  thi-j  caftlt;  ihrtnigb- 
teven  g."tf'-,  ov-  r  wh'c!:  r.rt:  k\vrz\  coats  of  arms^ 
which  bcloiiL'cJ  to  iiic  \::.'.<A:v^  &i  Rhodes,  that  com- 
manded th'.-:':. 

From  li-drc}\\  he  f:'.ilfd  :o  Rhode*:,  which  is  100 
miles  frojn  .S:;!inli:  j,  'i  it-  ill-  of  Kliodcs  haS  Lyci* 
on  the  ncrth,  boin.^  paruvl  f,om  it  by  tlie  fca,  whicb 
is  20  n~.ilc-s  broad;  the  iTi'?  of  Cyprus  on  thceafti 
Candia  o;i  I'w:  wtfc,  ep,:!  Iv'ypt  on  the  fouth.  It  is 
iro  tT?ilt:5  in  ciri.,-i:,  iyi;;r;  i;i  a  temperate  climate. 
The  foil  is  fruiii'nl,  nr.d  liath  fevcral  villages  in  it 
W:  i!  inhabited,  bef:de  a  fmall  city  which  is  ftrong. 
Tl.ii  ifijnd  has  btrt.-n  under  the  Greeks,  and  under 
I'v:  Saracens  vvlio  loil  it  to  ihekni^^l^ts  hofpitallera 
of  jf-rufalein  in  1309.  Ihey  held  it  200  years,  and 
now  is  in  th?  hands  (;f  the  Turksi  who  under  Solymail' 
11.  toi^k  it  ill  j^.*:.  ' 

TlM 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


fi, 


.  The  town  harh  two  hirbours,  of  which  the  Great 
Port»  being  fqinrc  and  Ipjcioiis  enough,  is  not  very 
fife,  when   the  wind  blows  from  E.  N.  E.  or  S.  E. 
On  ihi*  right-hand,  at  the  entry  of  this  port,  is  a  aev 
tower,  buih  by  the  Turks,  in  a  place  where  the  old 
tower  of  St,  Nicholas  rtcjo:^.    It  is  well  furnifhed  with 
cannon;  and  over  againft  thii  tower.  Hands  the  caftle 
of  St.  Angelo,  biic  fomcwhat  niinous.     This  cadle 
and  tower  were  built  in  the  place  where  Stood  the  feoe  i 
trfthc  great  ColoGus,  one  of  the  feven  wonders  of  J 
the  world  i  between  the  legs  of  which  a  (hip  under 'i 
fail  might  pafs.     It  rcprcfented  the  fun,  and  was  caft.i 
by  Chares  the  Lyndian.     It  was  leventy  cubits  high,  1 
ftrided  fifty  fathoms,  and  carried  a  Iight-houfe  in  on(?.  j 
hand.      It  was  overthrown   by  an  earthquake,  and  | 
being  broke  to  pieces  by  the  Saracens,  was  fold  ta  i 
a  Jew,  who  loaded  900  camels  with  the  nietal»  and 
carried  it  to  Alexandria,  in  the  ydar  of  our  Lord 
954,  and  1461  years  after  it  was  made.    The  port 
of  the  gallies,  which  is  covered  by  the  caftlc  of  St, 
Erme,  is  a  good  harbour,  and  able  to  contain  manjr  < 
gallics }  but  the  mouth  of  ic  is  fo  narrow,  that  one  j 
galley  only  can  enter  at  a  time.      Ic  looks  to  th*  J 
E.  N.  E.  and  is  every  night  ftiut  with  a  chain.     On, 
the  fide  of  this  port  is  a  piazza,  with  fome  trees  and  \ 
a  fountain  in  il,  and  at  the  bottom  of  it  the  arfcnal,  ' 
where  gillies  and  faiqucs  arc  built.    The  town  is  fmal^ 
but  rtrung,  having  high  and  well-built  w.ills,  planted 
with  fjulcons  on  the  top,  and  below  there  arc  port*  ' 
itoks  lor  great  cannon.  ' 

It  haih  three  gates,  one  to  the  fca,  where  corn  U  , 
fold,  and  two  to  the  iind-fidc.     Over  the  water-gate 
is  fee  up  th*  dragon's  hcaJ,  which  was  33  feet  long, 
wafted  all  the  country  round,  and  was  Qain  by  Deo 
pate  dc  Gozon,  one  of  the  knights  of  St.  John,    The 
ftreets  of  the  town  arc  tolerably  broad,  all  paved  with  . 
little  lionet,  and  for  tJic  moil  part  covered  with  pent-  ] 
boufcs  on  eich  (ale  i  ttu.Tc  arc  Icveral  fair  buildings 
in  it-     R'loJei  is  inhabited  now  only  by  Turks  and 
'    F  3  JCK^^ 


70         THEVENOl-s  TRAVELS 


Jews ;  for  though  the  Chriftians  arc  permitted  t(( 
keep  Ihops  in  town  in  the  day-time,  yet  in  the  nig^t 
they  mutt  retire  to  villages  in  the  country  about  it. 
Lindo,  the  coi:ntr>-of  Chares,  who  made  the  Colai- 
fus  of  Rhodes,  is  a  little  rock  at  the  point  of  the  ifle 
of  Rhodes,  60  miles  from  the  town.  It  has  a  fmall 
town  on  it,  with  a  very  good  fort. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  Mediterranean,  lies  the  noble 
idand  of  Cyprus,  famous  in  all  ages  for  the  fenilicf 
of  its  foil,  the  excellence  of  its  rtimate,  and  the  id-' 
vantage  of  its  ritu.;tion.  It  has  been  known  in  dif- 
ferent ages  of  the  world,  by  very  different  names; 
and  fome  of  theft-  are  fuch,  that  it  would  be  a  diffi- 
cult tiling  to  iirint  out  clearly  the  authorities  upoa 
which  thty  are  founded.  At  length  it  was  called 
Cyi  riis,  but  from  whence  it  is  not  very  clear  v  fome 
fay  from  its  copper  mine«,  others  from  cyprcfs-trec* 
which  were  in  a  m.mncr  pecuii.ir  to  it.  * 

In  anlier.t  times  it  was  conlccratcd  to  Venus,  who 
isniltdby  the  poet?,  the  Cyprian  Goddefs  ■,  and  the 
reafon  of  this  fcems  to  have  been  from  the  wantQn- 
rcls  of  m  inhabitants;  r.s  this  again  may  be  deiired 
f;oni  tl'.c  excellince  of  it^  climate,  and  from  the  fer- 
tility of  the  country.  The  longed  day  is  about  four- 
teen hoars  and  a  half;  their  weather  in  fummcr  is 
prodigiuiiny  hot,  fc>  ihat  fomeiimes  thvir  brooks,  and 
even  their  r'.v:  rs,  have  been  dried  up  ;  and  in  the 
reign  of  Conltaiitine  the  Great,  when  tfiey  had  no 
rain  f(;r  ^6  years,  it  was  in  a  great  mcafure  deferted. 
But  fiita  accidents  happen  li-ldom,  and  therefore 
fiug!::  n'>f  to  be  mentioned  as  objections  to  the  gene- 
;■;:!  icpute  this  coui.rrv  has  been  in  for  its  great  truit- 
fnln^ft. 

it  iiboimtis  with  wine,  oil,  corn,  fugar,-  cotton, 
honev,  v.o:j!,  turp:;n:tnc,  alluin,  vcrdigreafc,  all 
'"■)rts  c-f  n-.tta's,  and  mod  exrellcnr  fait.  This  ifland 
iiiTords  I'cveral  good  ports,  all  the  materials  rcquifite 
U,r  building  of  fhips,  all  the  commodities  that  can 
i-.e  tlcfired  iyr  carrying  on  a  great  trade;  and,  if  ic 

were 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  71 

were  under  a  riglu  governmcnc  for  one  century,  miglic 
be  able  to  defend  itfclt  againfl:  all  its  nei:;hbour3. 
At  prefcnt  it  is  thinly  {xroplcd,  and  not  half  cultivated. 
A  Turkiih  bafhi  dcftroyed  all  tlie  fugar-canes,  to 
prevent  the  Cypriocs  from  having  too  much  wcaicli  -, 
an  evil  which  there  is  now  no  rcafon  to  fear.  In  a 
word,  it  is  at  tliis  day  the  cleareil  proof  that  can  be 
given,  how  much  a  bad  government  can  defeat  all 
the  kind  intentions  of  nature  :  for  in  fpitc  of  all  the 
advantages  that  a,  country  can  poflTibly  iiavQ,  there 
never  was  a  mort*  difnal  or  defolate  place  than  this 
iQand  is  at  this  day.  Fion-^  having  millions  of  people, 
there  arc  now  in  it  f^arce  30,000  •,  from  a  climate  that 
produced  a  perpetual  fpring,  it  is  become  both  un- 
wholcfome  and  unpleafanc  ^  from  cities  and  towns  that 
tpuched  eacl)  other,  there  arc  now  only  villages  and 
h^ps  of  ruins  -,  from  abundance  of  all  things,  the 
inhabitants  arc  reduced  to  indiQ;eace  and  Ilarvini/. 
So  that,  except  to  confidcrate  and  intelligent  perLns, 
the  face  of  the  modern  Cyprus  refutes  all  that  antient 
agthors  lave  faid  in  its  favour.  Such  are  the  cfl'ects 
of  a  fali'c  religion  un^i  tyrauucal  govern:vcnt. 

It  would  be  inexcufible  in  fpeaking  of  ihefe  iil.in.^, 
tQ  fuller  that  which  makes  the  grea-efl:  figure  i  1  hii- 
tory,  to  remain  hidJen,  and  out  o;';he  rca<.lcr*s  view  j 
I  mean  the  illand  of  Landla,  fo  lonjjj  the  tlivairv:  of 
yoLX  between  ihe  Vcnetiv.ns  an^l  t!ie  1  urks.  i'iic  ia- 
h^biianis  of  this  i(la:ul  are  allowed  to  be  ie.iiiole,  .is 
well  as  brave  and  haiu;  ;  Ah.ereas  the  SLitjif.s,  or  i.i- 
lubitants  of  the  iOanii  ot' Scio,  arc  comr.oily  caILd 
Prafiiiios  by  the  Turk^,  Nviiicli  is  as  mucli  as  'o  lay. 
Green.  'Ihe  rcafon  of  ihis  i.^,  ilj;:t  ti.c 'i'n.iath  i^a- 
flia,  much  cdeemeJ  for  his  wiiUuin,  oLMeiving  iht: 
manners  of  the  iniia..>icariis  of  tliac  illaiui,  faid,  t'la: 
**  A  wife  Seijt  an.i  a  green  horle  were  rarities  ecju '.1/ 
bard  to  be  met  wicii.''  By  ihi.  u.ducky  farwufn  i:tf 
jlamped  the  name  of  iV;*..r.n:o'i  upon  rhii  wh')!e  '.iv 
tion.  But  for  the  CanJio^i,  tliough  tlie  l\:rk'  ha  e 
;Jicm,  yet  tiiey  cam.ot  he;-)  uwrf::^.;^,  t'-at  tli.;.  hiv.r 

I''  4  bcia 


72         THEVENOr«  TRAVELS 

both  courage  and  underftanding*,  of  both  which  thrf 
gave  ample  trfUmony  in  the  courfc  of  the  long  war 
bcfore-mentioord. 

The  ifland  ot^  Candia,  which  in  old  time  was,  and 
alfo  now  19  by  t!te  Turks  called  Crete,  hsth  followed, 
for  the  moft  part,  that  of  the  empire  of  Greece,  and 
is  now  fubje£ted  lo  the  tyranny  of  the  Turks,  afier  t 
war  of  above  27  yrars  -,  in  which  time  the  Vcnetiaoi 
did  bravely,  and  with  unparalk-lcd  courage,  defend 
the  city  of  Candii  to  the  laft  extremity.  After  a  dofi: 
fiege,  for  near  two  years  continuance,  the  vizier  cbete 
in  perfon,  and  wi:h  him  the  bed  of  all  the  Ottoman 
forces,  they  were  forced  to  furrender ;  yet  upon  the 
moft  honourable  tcrm»  that  themfelves  could  propofe, 
carrying  away  wjfh  rhem,  not  only  their  cannon  and 
all  otlicr  ammunition,  but  alfo  the  belts  which  wtrr  in 
the  fteeplt"!,  and  whatever  eUi:  they  though:  wonh 
their  labour.  The  vizier  was  lb  muf  li  overjoyed  that 
the  city  was  furrendcrcd  to  him,  that  he  appointed 
ftvcril  of  the  Turkifh  bnats  tu  alTill  the  Venetians, 
if  they  Ihould  have  ocrafion  fur  their  hdp,  in  carry- 
ing their  goods  to  rhc  fhiji^.  Mc  was  fo  obfervant  of 
his  word  on  the  cclTation,  that  he  cauled  two  janiza.- 
rics  to  be  put  to  death  fur  attempting  to  force  their 
way  into  the  city. 

All  Europe  hai  heard  of  this  great  ftcge ;  how 
many  thoufanti  bombs  wcrt:  caft  into  the  city,  how 
many  mines  were  blown  up  ■,  and  how  many  bold 
affaulis  the  Turks  made.  They  had  at  laft  worked 
themfelves  fo  near  the  walls,  that  ic  wjs  impotfiUe 
for  the  btfic^L-d  to  make  uic  of  any  of  their  great 
guns ;  for  no  iboner  could  a  man  appear  to  level  a 
gun,  but  there  was  a  fliowcr  of  b-jjltts  and  arrows: 
fo  that  tlic  Tu;ks  would  often  attempt  to  undermine, 
and  the  Venetians  to  countermine  them;  and  when 
they  met  underground,  they  fought  moft  dcfperate-: 
I7.  The  Vcnctiuns  have  an  engine  which  they  call 
Trombo  di  l-'uoco,  it  is  as  long  as  a  half-pik'-,  the 
ilalf  bigger  \  at  the  end  are  two  irons  about  two, 
6  f«?t 


TO  THE  LEVANT.  yj 

feel  long,  in  the  form  of  a  fork,  in  which  is  fa(Vf  ned 
g  trunk  made  of  iron,  and  fome  are  wood  ;  in  it  arc 
five  charges,  each  firing  leverally  and  at  a  certain 
time,  and  carry  fevcral  bullets  to  do  execution  as  far 
as  a  piftol :  they  fet  fire  to  it  at  the  tore-part,  and 
have  a  touch  to  reach  from  one  chamber  to  the 
other.  Another  invention  they  had  to  fifli  up  the 
Turks  when  they  attempted  to  undermine  their  walU ; 
ihcy  had  hooks  made  in  the  form  of  a  boat's  grap- 
pling, tlie  points  (harp,  fattened  to  a  rope,  and  four 
or  five  feet  of  chain  at  the  end-,  thel'e  hooks  they 
often  caft  over  the  walls  amongil  the  Turks,  and  fel- 
dom  failed  to  bring  up  a  Turk,  fome  faftened  by  the 
cloaths,  others  by  the  body.  I  have  heard  fome  of 
the  officers  fay  they  have  taken  fevcral  in  a  night ; 
for  when  the  hook  was  faftened,  they  gave  them  not 
time  to  unhook  themfelvcs,  but  had  them  foon  over 
the  walls. 

This  jQand  had  twenty  cities,  and  above  one  thoo- 
fand  towns,  villages,  and  large  monaftcries  -,  now 
there  arc  not  above  four  cities,  and  three  hundred 
towns  and  villages.  Several  men  have  feveral  opi- 
nions about  the  labyrinth  here  i  but  one  fignior  Vc- 
nctando,  who  was  born  in  a  neighbouring  village, 
gives  this  account :  that  a  cenain  king  of  this  IQand 
pad  fo  great  .1  hatred  for  all  women,  thit  he  ordered 
this  place  for  his  court;  and  at  lull  lived  fo  privately, 
that  he  would  not  fuffer  any  perlbns  to  come  to  him, 
but  fuch  as  adminiltered  affairs,  and  rukd  in  \\h  ftead. 
He  would  feldom  come  out,  but  to  worfhip  at  a 
temple,  dcdiiated  to  Jupiter,  which  flood  clofc  by 
it.  In  this  Ubyrinth  he  ended  his  dayt,  and  had  a 
famous  tomb  built  for  him,  the  ruins  of  which  tliey 
(hew  you. 

The  labynnih  is  about  two  miles  about,  being  fo 
covered  on  the  top  with  earth,  as  it  fecma  lo  be  all 
firm  land  1  we  entered  it  with  two  torches  and  can- 
dles Iq  lonthoms,  having  a  tine  to  dircA  us  out  again, 
fhe  Vij  ii  phaa  under  foot,  and  arched  over  head^ 

ferns. 


i 


^4  THEVENOrs  TRAVELS 
fome  irches  being  about  ten  free  high,  fame  moir, 
fome  lefs,  with  feveral  windings.  1  made  it  my  bu- 
finds  CO  oblerve  if  there  W2s  any  thing  of  a  building 
ID  the  pjlbrs  or  tides,  but  found  it  mo(Uy  an  entire 
ftoncvwliich  they  told  mc  was  ib  well  cemented  toge- 
ther, that  indeed  it  appeared  lb.  Here  are  a  great  many 
fmall  vaulis,  about  four  feet  long,  two  tu'oad,  and 
iwoover,  which  were  for  burying- places.  Tliere  arq 
abundance  of  biitts  whjch  hang  in  clullers,  fome  of 
them  larger  than  ordinary.  Wc  endeavoured  to  fright 
tliem,  fcorching  ihcir  wings,  by  which  we  found 
there  was  lite  in  them  :  their  fleep  is  obfcrved  to  be 
much  more  found  with  a  north-wind,  than  with  a 
fouth-wind  i  as  the  iprint;  comes  on  they  leave  this 
tjicir  palace.  Wc  iiad  almofl  ended  our  line,  being 
about  JOG  pikes,  wliich  is  about  eighty  yards,  and 
then  rcturnc-d  out,  being  a  good  hour  in  the  laby- 
rinth. The  .!.inip:i  are  very  great,  againfl:  rain  it  is 
always  dropping,  but  very  dry  with  northerly  winds. 
At  the  end  is  a  lalcc,  ami  tliey  tell  you,  that  foine 
■who  hive  attempted  to  go  to  it,  have  been  drawn  inta 
it.  Our  cunoiify  did  not  invite  us  to  fee  it  j  for 
though  it  v.vre  not  true,  as  in  probability  it  is  nor, 
the  noilb.T.c  fmeljs  are  enough  to  ftifle  one.  To  the 
Ibuth-wcll,  about  ten  miii-b  dillant,  is  that  famous  a«4 
great  mountain,  called  I'lilla  Vuona,  formerly  mount 
Ida  -,  at  four  of  the  clock  it  calls  a  fliddow  on  the  la- 
byrinth. Un  it  are  many  plealanc  monalterits,  wjth 
groves  of  cvprcfs-irees,  and  abundance  of  fountains. 
Some  lay  the  coall  of  Barbary  may  be  I'cen  from  the 
top.  From  the  labyrinth  to  Candia,  is  about  ten 
hours  riding,  moii  in  a  plain,  till  within  ten  miles  of 
the  city.  .  , 

There  are  in  this  Jtland  abundance  of  monafteries, 
but  very  poor,  and  ibnie  are  ihut  up  for  want  at* 
iTionk=.  CJiinuia,  fo  famous  and  generally  known  for 
the  ljr.:ve  defence  it  made  agjinlt  the  Turks,  appears, 
by  tiie  r»;nj,  to  have  been  one  of  the  beft  cities  in 
Vhc  mid-land  ftas.     It  is  feated  on  the  north-fide  of 

the 


TO  THE  LEVANT. 


75 


the  idand,  almoft  mid-way  between  Canea  and  Sitm, 
in  a  pleafant  bi)-,  having  an  anificia)  pon  fccuicH 
^m  the  north-wind  by  a  mole  about  20O  yard^  long, 
with  a  itrong  and  large  cattle  ai  the  head,  called  Cal- 
yt\  del  Molo,  having  twcntj-  great  guns.  .  To  iho 
caft  ol-*  the  arlcnal  is  the  old  Ciitle,  called  La  Batta- 
rra  del  .^^fenal,  which  is  rebuilt  with  a  ditch  round 
k  to  bring  in  the  lea,  moftly  cut  out  of"  a  firm  rock. 
The  pon  is  almoll  round,  and  the  gallics  or  rmallcr 
Hj^lsfecurp  againft  any  wind,  but  there  is  not  wa- 
ter enough  for  Iliips  of  any  confidcrabic  bigncls.  It 
is  6IIcd  very  miuh  with  the  rubbifh  that  the  rains  car- 
ried into  it  from  the  city,  and  would  certainly  have 
been  choaked  up  in  a  few  years,  had  it  not  been  for 
a  French  merchant,  one  monfieur  Dodei,  who  to  in- 
gratiate hicnfclf  wiih  the  b,ilh.4,  caufed  an  engine  to 
be  brought  from  Marlcilles  to  clcanfc  it. 

The  Turks  take  a  delight  to  give  an  account  of 
the  rtrengih  of  the  place,  and  efptcjjily  will  ihcw  you 
a  fmall  cave  or  arch,  wlicrc  the  Venetian  general 
ufed  to  deep,  (as  they  tcU  you)  to  fecurc  hin.ic'lf 
from  the  bombs.  Not  above  one  eighth  part  of  the 
houfcs  that  formerly  were,  arc  now  mhabiiod  i  very 
few  being  left  entire i  nor  do  the  Tuik*  rep*r  any 
but  thole  where  they  dwell.  The  ircnm.  of  ihefltd 
houfes  are  bought  up  and  carri.-dto  Vunicc,  Zanr, 
and  other  placcsj  and  being  ma. c  of  cyiircis-wi}(xl, 
they  fervf  to  make  chctts  and  cab.nccs,  tnany  of 
which  Iiave  been  brought  to  England.  The  number 
of  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  is  not  reckoficd  to  be 
above  itj,ooo,  including  Greeks.  Thsre  i-i  a  conti- 
nual garriibn  of  2&00  janizaries,  btfijc  the  balha's 
guards.  Since  the  taking  the  place,  they  have  granted 
^Jiberty  to  all  thai  will  come  to  inhabit  ihcic ;  djz 
^^^^hcir  encouragement  cannat  refiorc  it. 

I 


I  [  76  J 

]  Tlic  MILITARY  QUALITIES  of  the  fcveral 

EUROPEAN   NATIONS  compared: 
]  By  a  General  Ofiicer  who  has  juft  publiOied   in 

i  Account  of  the  late  Campaigns  in  GiRMAMYi  in 

which  he  bore  a  great  Pare. 

■ftjEXT  to  the  local  geography  of  a  country,  the 
■*■  natural  hiftory,  and  political  condituiion  of  it, 
are  obje»fls  thjt  dclcrve  the  urmoft  attention  ;  as  the 
quantity  and  quality  of  its  produdions,  foil,  climate, 
food,  and  form  of  governTicnt :  bccaufc  on  thefc  the 
phyfical  and  moral  qualities  of  the  inhabitants  en- 
tirely depend.  Thoie  who  inhabit  the  plains,  and 
rich  countries,  are  generally  effeminate  and  bad  fol- 
diers;  impatient  under  the  lead  fatigue,  foon  fick, 
'  require  too  much  food,  and  arc  lefs  a^ive  than  thofe 

of  the  mountains,  and  in  every  rt-fpeft  inferior  to 
thein.   What  did  not  the  poor  Scots  Highlanders  do  ? 
!  what  did  they  not  fuffer  ?    They  will  live  where  an 

[  Engliiliman,  ilioiigh  animated  with  equal  courage  ant] 

'    ,  iovc  of  glory,  will  pcrifh  ;  mcerly  from  the  difference 

{  of  their  fitUJtion  before  they  become  foldicrs.     The 

.  Croats  in  thccmprcfs's  lervice,  feldom  if  ever  encamp, 

!  and  are  expoled  to  all  the  inclemency  of  the  weatherj 

!  vet,  in  propurtion,  much  fewer  of  them  die,  than 

I  among  the  relt  of  the  troops  :  which  can  be  attribuc- 

i  ed  only  to  ihc  ilifrerencc  of  the  countries  from  whence 

i   .  they  comf.     The  inhabitants  of  great  town;  are  ftill 

■,vorle  thin  thofc  of  the  plains  ;  being  long  enervated 
vn'.h  vice,  ?.nJ  it>  coafequcnccs,  they  are  unable  to 
(■■i|:;;nit  r^y  fatigue :  and  are,  moreover,  too  talka* 
r/t,  ever  to  ionn  good  and  obedient  foldiers.  The 
;  lorni  of  i-ovfrrnnuiit  produces  no  lefs  variery  in  the 

I  chsTihcrr,  of  n:-i,  t':.in  t'ic  phyfical  qualities  of  ih^ 

'  c;-.:  11  try. 

The 


^m       Tiv  MiLiTAtT  QoAunu  of,  fcc         7f 

The  fubje^  of  a  drfpotic  priaoe  bro^  fma  dior 
fauth  taught  obecKeacv,  tod  (ubonlifntkMi,  tmm  cAh»- 
lUl  quBlioes  to  form  a  good  fbfafirr  t  ii  ooc  canrcif 
attmatcd  and  mdcened  by  oppnffioo,  and  povcfrr, 
are  prctcraUe  to  thoic  of  icpwbcs,  (iiik&  tbric  ave 
aniraaKd  bj  tfac  cnthu&aAic  fire  of  bberrr.  Bui  if 
deftituse  of  this  pnncipir.  thek  bttrr  inaJEe  bsc  i»- 
di^Ttot  fotdicrs  i  bcciulc  [hdr  procnSoia  m  Rbcrtf 
claflies  coatinuAlty  wnh  ibat  blind  li^xwdmaiMiBa 
which  coofticoics  the  vaj  feusdjooa  of  a  S"*^ 
irmf. 

Dil'ciplLte  {hould  be  adapttd  to  natJooal  diant- 
trrs,  by  which  both  arc  iaipnmed  ;  but  as  ibcJe  who 
have  the  formation  and  condud  of  aninc^  ictam 
whollf  unacqtiaintcd  with  faoinaa  nanuc  ia  gooei^ 
and  with  its  various  modiBcadoos,  accoidaig  to  tte 
difiVrence  of  couotncs  and  govenur-cni  i  riiey  find 
thentfclvrs  incapable  to  ibrm  a  code  of  imHtarf  laiiK, 
fouoded  on  oatiooal  cham&en :  Kid  at  tluTcibre 
forced  to  deflroy  theie,  and  cQabliAi  it,  on  the  wedt, 
uncemin,  and  Qavilh  ptinctple  of  fear;  whkh'lui 
rendered  our  armies  roudi  infenor  to  tbofe  at  the 
anitcnts. 

The  French  arc  gay,  lipht,  and  lively,  jfcvrrrcd 
rather  by  an  imtncJtate  and  tranfitory  in^putle.  ;«U3 
by  any  principle  of  rcafbo  or  fcmiment :  ibcir  ksiit- 
lions,  £n>m  the  nature  of  their  climate,  are  very  de- 
licate -,  and  therefore  objefts  make  a  very  Bjoag  ita- 
predion.  From  whence  it  follows  that  they  arc  impe- 
tuous, and  dangerous  in  their  a:iacks  -,  xU  the  aD*nal 
fyiriis  fccm  uniteti,  anJ  give  them  a  more  rh»n  or- 
dinary degree  of  vigour  for  that  ioflant ;  birc  a  cx- 
haufb  the  whole  frime  :  the  inftant  foUtrwiug  dicy  ap. 
pear  bnguiJ  and  weak,  acd  changed  into  o'.hsr  mcs- 
To  this  national  charaftrr  may  be  addcc^,  :'..it  thcT 
armies  are  recruited  front  thccUfsof  men  i]  at  inh*> 
bit  the  towns,  who,  of  all  others,  2ie  ihc  ]n&  pn>* 
per  for  foldiers,  being  vain,  impatienr,  talka:i»eand 
eAmiooie :  they  advance,  ailiuvd  of  vtStoty, 


^8  Th«!   MltlTARy   QlfALITIE"«  of 

■a  grtat  opinion  of  themfclves,  and  contempt  of  othciS: 
but  if  rcpulfod,  their  fpirit3  are  exhauf^d,  fliamc 
fuccceds,  and  humbles  ihem  lo  fuch  a  degree,  tfiar 
they  are  not  eafily  prevailed  upon  to  renew  the  at- 
tack i  and  as  their  vanity  will  never  let  them  confcfs 
they  arc  in  the  wrong,  they  throw  the  fault  on  their 
leaders,  become  mucinous,  and  defert.  Whercfcwe 
it  fhould  be  a  maxim  in  making  war  againft  the 
French,  to  keep  them  continually  in  motion,  cipeci- 
ally  in  bjd  weather  ■,  always  to  attack  them,  never  to 
permit  them  to  follow  their  own  difpofitions,  but  force 
them  to  obferve  yours. 

The  Auftrian  army  is  compofcd  chiefly  out  of 
the  clafs  of  labourers,  vaflals  of  the  great  lords  ;  they 
are  obedient  an.l  patient,  and  bear  without  a  mur- 
mur the  greatell  hardfliips  :  and  though  theic  reli- 
fion  does  not  rife  to  any  degree  of  enthufiafm,  pro- 
ably  for  want  of  being  excited  by  an  able  le^er/ 
yet  it  keeps  them  fobcr,  and  free  from  vice.  By 
education,  and  temper,  they  arc  little  difpofed  to 
rcafun  about  caufes  and  events ;  and  therefore  very 
proper  to  form  a  good  foldier,  and  fuperior  to  any 
other,  who  arc  not  raifcd  by  fonie  tjxxics  of  enthu- 
fiafm. 

The  Runi.ms  have  all  thc-fe  qualifications,  in 
common  with  the  A  uflrians;  and  belide,  fuch  a  fiind 
of  veneration  for  their  prince,  which  infpires  them 
with  a  dcgne  of  enEhufiafni,  that  mult  neccflarily 
render  them  fuptrior  to  every  other  army  that  is  not 
animated  with  fimilar  principles,  ^hcir  courage  alone 
has  rendtrcd  them  victorious,  in  ipite  of  all  ttwle 
difficulties  in  wiiich  the  general  iyiorancc  of  their 
officers  involved  them. 

The  Prulfian  army,  being  compoled  chiefly  of 
grangers  of  different  countries,  manners,  and  reli- 
gions, are  united  only  by  the  tlrong  ch.iin  of  military 
difcipline :  this,  and  a  moll  riyid  attention  to  keep 
up  all  the  forms  and  dili:iplinc  cftabliQicd,  confti- 
tutes  a  vail  and  regular  machine  ;  which  being  ani< 

mated 


^™      the  fcveral  European  Nations  compared.    79-^ 

mated  by  the  vigorous  and  powerful  genius  of  theit  ^ 
leader,  may  be  juflly  accounted  one  of  the  mod  ro-.,j 
fpc£table  armies  in  Europe.  Bui  Ihould  this  I'priDg,^^ 
however,  langiiilh  but  for  an  inllant only,  the  maduQc,-(| 
itfdf,  being  compofed  of  fucli  heterogeneous  matier,  , 
would  probably  fiill  to  pieces,  and  leave  nothing  but 
the  traces  of  its  antient  glory  behind. 

The  Spaniards  arc  brave  and  patient ;  and  have 
belide  a  point  of  honour,  which  being  improved, 
would  make  them  good  foldicrs:  their  army,  at  prc- 
fent,  would  make  but  an  indifferent  figure,  for  two 
or  three  campaigns-,  as  their  generab  have  ncitherj^H 
that  knowlege  founded  on  lludy  and  applicatiovJ^H 
or  that  produced  by  experience.  ^al 

The  EngliQi  are  neither  fo  lively  as   the  Focnch, 
nop  fo  phlegmatic  as  the  Germans :    they  rclcmbic 
more,  however,  the  former;  and  are  therefore* lome- 
what  lively  and  impatient.     If  the  nature  of  the  Flna- J^H 
lifh  con(li[ution  permitted  Ibme  degree  more  of  dilcifjH| 
plinc,  a  more  equal  diftribution  of  iavours,  iind  .i^^| 
total  abolifiimcnt  of  buying  and  felling  commiffionfc.^  - 
they  would  furpafs  at  Icaft  equal,  any  troops  in  the,  , 
world. 

The  Turks,  and  every  government  founded  on 
military  force,  mult  necclTarily  decay  •,  unlels  tin.*  fame 
fanaiicif'm  which  gave  it  birth,  be  kept  up  by  ronti- 
nual  wars,      Mahomet  undcrftood  this  principle  fOjjJ 
well,  that  he  has  made  a  religious  prtcept  of  it,  cotnK3H 
manding  his  followers  never   to  make  peace    wicj^^^| 
their  enemies.     As  tKe  force  of  this  army  dependu^H 
entirely  on  numbers,  and  cnthulialm  -,  :(  this  la(t  ift!^^| 
everextinguilhcd,  wi;ich  now  feems  10  be  much  tbfi^^H 
cafe,  the  other  will  av;ii|  them  nuilting  :  and  that  tiiM^^| 
menfc  fabric,  being  no  longer  animated  witli  the  onl^^^| 

I  which  covild  l'u(]port  it,  mutt  fink  under  ^Q^^^l 
1 


J      O      U      R      N      E       Y 

T  O 

PALMYRA 

O  R 

TEDMOR    in    the    DESART. 


THIS  account  K  taken  from  the  French  edition 
of  the  ingenious  Mr.  Wood's  pompous  work 
on  the  Antiquititf;  of  Palmyra.  A  work  which  will 
be  a  lading  proof  of  the  abiliiics  of  the  author,  and 
the  two  learned  [gentlemen  his  companions  in  his  tra- 
vels. From  fuch  works  it  is  impodiblc  to  abridojC 
without  giving  both  inftrudlion  and  entertainment. 

"  Two  gentlemen  *,  fays  our  author,  who  more 
than  once  had  been  led  by  curiofity  to  travel  intq 
Italy,  were  perfuadcd  that  a  voyage  properly  made 
to  the  moll  remarkable  places  in  antiquity,  on  cbe 
coall  of  the  Mediterranean,  might  be  of  advantage  to 
the  public,  at  the  fame  time  that  it  would  mot^ 
knowk'ge  and  entertainment  to  themfelvcs.  As  I 
had  already  fccn  moft  of  the  places  they  propoled  m 
v'irir,  they  did  me  the  honour  to  communicate  their 
delign  to  me,  and  1  with  pleafure  accepted  their  invi- 
tation to  be  one  of  fuel)  an  agreeable  party.  The  ad- 
vanugeous  idea  I  had  formed  of  thcfc  gentkmeiv 

*  Tlwie  gcDtlejKn  were  Mr.  Dawkioi,  and  Mr.  Baavere. 

whon» 


^*^     Journey  to  paxmyra.      sf 

^-hom  I  had  fcvenl  times  met  in  France  and  Izaly, 
flaittred  me  with  all  the  furccfs  that  could  be  hoped" 
forffom  I'uch  a  voyage.  Their  friendfhip,  theirlov^- 
of  aniiquiiics  and  the  fine  arts,  and  their  being  ao»V| 
cuftomed  to  travelling,  were  circumllanccs  cfTentiaM 
1  to  our  projcft  :  circum (lances  that  (cidom  meet  iM 
two  perfbns,  who  joined  to  a  taftc  and  leifurc  for  fuch^ 
rtfcarches,  the  neceflary  means  of  making  them,  an^^ 
who  had  (iifficienc  hcalih  and  courage  to  fiipport  tluS  I 
fatigue  of  doing  it.  We  agreed  that  we  could  ndpj 
do  without  a  fuurth  pcrfon  vho  was  in  Italy,  anafl 
tjrfiofe  abilities  were  known  to  us  with  re'pcft  to  hltm 
fkill  in  architi-ffture  and  drawing.  We  thcrefortfll 
wrote  to  hjjn,  and  eng;;ged  him  to  be  cnc  of  thiSj 
party.  'M 

We  chofe  Rome  for  the  place  of  our  rendczvoust  J 
and  there  fpent  the  winter  together,  employing  thrtj 

trcatcft  part  of  our  liTc  in  refrefhing  otir  memoridfS 
y  reading  ancient  hiftory,  and  in  perfcfting  ouiKj 
fclves  in  the  geography  oif  the  country  we  propofe(lW 
lo  vifit.  "^  -m 

The  following  fpring  we  repaired  to  Naples,  when™ 
wc  found  a  vcfTcl  we  had  hired  at  London,  furniftiedlB 
with  every  thing  we  h.id  thovioht  would  be  of  ft-rvicft^ 
to  lis  ;  as  a  choice  collection  of  the  Greek  poets  and' 1 
liiftorians,  books  of  antiquitirs,  and  accounts  of  th0J| 
l:dl  voyages  and  travels.  Then;  were  alfo  on  boards 
fuch  mathematical  in(lr.imcn:s  as  .>pe  migSt  have  oc-ifl 
cafion  for ;  and  prcfcnts  fit  for  (he'Turk-s  of  diftinoJ 
tion  and  others,  to  whom  wc  might  be  obliged  w^ 
addrcfs  ourfelves  in  the  courfe  of  our  journey.  We  J 
vifued  mort  of  the  iflands  of  the  Archipelago,  a  part* 
of  Greece  in  Bluropev  the  European  and  Ahatio<il 
coafts  of  the  Hcllcfpont ;  the  Proponiis  and  the  BoPil 
pliorus  as  fjr  as  the  Black  S«.  We  penetrated  inicrfl 
AlJi  Minor,  Sj-rift,  Phccnicia,  Palefline,  and  HgypiM 
I     and  vifited  the  mod  rcr.urkablc  places  in  each,  1 

Mhc  difTcrcntcoumms  throiigh  *hich  we  pnfiVd^  ' 
inown  to  abound  In  things  of  various  kindi  that 
fu,  VI.  G  mc-i: 


Si  A    JOURNEY 

merit  thf  attention  of  the  curious  traveller  :  however, 
it  wa*  lefs  the  pr-rfcnt  than  the  ancient  ftatc  of  thelc 
couiitrit!.  that  attradcd  our  regard  ;  though  each  of 
us  was  able  to  gratify  his  peculiar  tafte.  It  is  impof- 
fib!';  to  confidiT  with  indificrcnce,  the  countries  *here 
polite  literature  and  the  arts  haJ  their  birch  -,  where 
the  cnptains,  the  orators,  the  philofophcrs,  the  pocB, 
and  the  artiils,  fo  bravely  and  fo  happily  fuffcted 
their  genius  to  foar,  to  the  honour  of  human  natutr. 
Circumlt-inccs  ot  climate  and  fituaiion,  ocherwile  tri- 
vial, bfcome  interelling  from  ihcir  connexion  with 
the  great  men  who  have  ccltbrated  rhem,  and  with 


the  illullrious  aftions,  which  hiftorv  and 


poetry  rcpit- 


fent  as  being  there  performed.  The  life  of  Miltiadcs 
or  Leonidas  can  no  where  be  read  with  fuch  plcafurc 
as  in  the  plains  of  Marathon,  or  at  the  ftreio-hts  of 
Thermopyla::    the    Hiad  has  new  beauties  on  the 

banks  of  the  Scamander  1  and  the  Odyfley  has  frdh 
charms  in  the  country  where  Ulyfles  travelled,  and 
Homer  i'r.ng. 

No  part  of  a  tour  tlirough  tl:e  call  ii  fo-tlffficult  as 
a  journey  to  Palmyra :  lor  it  is  neciflary  to  go  far 
Iruiii  the  common  road,  am!  wliere  the  grand  fignior's 
protection  can  be  of  no  fcrvice.  Aleppo  and  Damaf- 
ii'S  Iccmcd  to  be  the  pUi-i's  where  \vj  iiiight  bed  pro- 
vide fur  convenience  and  fafety  in  this  cnijrprize :  but 
having  endei'-voured  in  vaiii  to  make  the  firft  of  thefe 
ci:ics,  we  anciiorcd  at  Byro  )i,  on  the  c.ail  of  Syria,, 
and  croffed  over  mount  Libanus,  in  order  to  go  to 
Dam;:fcus. 

The  hxiib.  of  that  city  declared  rhiit  he  could  not 
promife  u?,  diac  ti;her  his  riiinie  or  hii  power  would 
be  of  any  i'-rvice  to  us  at  the  ph^e  lo  v.-hirh  we  were 
goins.  Ftu-.u  whnt  he  I'lid,  and  from  all  that  wc 
could  iearn  from  other.^  v,c  fo-jnd  that  wc  rtiuft  be 
obl'.peJ  to  ro  to  HaJfia,  a  vnbj^e  fi.ur  d.iys  journey 
to  the  norch  of  Dan-.aici;':,  and  '.he  rcfidence  of  an. 
a^a,  whofe  jurifdiction  extends  to  Pahnyra.  This 
.  iittic  village  is  in  the  great  road  by  wliicli  the  caravan 

o£ 


TO    PALMYRA.  85 

of  Damafcus  pafles  to  Aleppo:  it  is  fituated  near 
Anti-Libanus,  at  a  few  hours  diftance  from  the  river 
Orontcs.  The  aga  received  us  with  the  hofpitality  fo 
common  in  this  country  among  the  people  of  all 
ranks  -»  and  though  extreamly  furprized  at  our  cu*- 
riofity,  he  gave  us,  as  well  as  he  was  able,  the  necef- 
(ary  inftruftions  for  gratifying  it. 

We  left  Haflia  on  the  loth  of  March,  1751,  with 
an  cfcort  of  the  beft  Arab  horfemen  belonging  to  the 
aga,  armed  with  guns  and  long  pikes ;  and  having 
croffcd  a  barren  plain,  which  fcarcely  produces  vege- 
tables fufficient  to  feed  the  antelopes  we  faw  there,  we 
arrived  at  Sudud.  This  is  a  fmall  village  inhabited 
by  Maronite  Chriftians :  the  houfes  arc  built  of 
bricks  dried  in  the  fun ;  and  the  inhabitants  cultivate 
as  much  land  around  the  village  as  is  barely  fjfficient 
for  their  fubfiftence :  they  alio  make  tolerable  good 
wine.  We  bought  fome  manufcripts  of  their  prieft  5 
and  after  dinner  continued  our  journey  to  the  fouth- 
cart  through  the  fame  fort  of  country,  and  in  three 
hours  more  arrived  at  Howarccn,  where  wc  took  up 
our  lodging. 

Howareen  has  the  fame  appearance  of  poverty  as 
Sudud ;  but  v;e  found  fome  ruins  there,  that  are  a 
proof  of  its  being  once  a  more  confiderable  place. 
A  fquare  tov/er  with  projedting  battlements  fecms  to 
have  been  built  3  or  400  years  ago  j  and  two  churches 
in  ruins  miy  be  of  the  fame  age.  In  thcrfe  buildings 
there  are  materials  much  more  ancient;  but  employ<:d 
without  judgment.  We  obferved  in  the  walls  fome 
Corinthian  capitals,  and  many  Attic  bafes  of  white 
marble.  Thcfe  fragments  of  antiquity,  and  fome 
others  we  found  fcattercd  about,  have  belonged  to 
works  crefted  with  more  expcncc  than  taflc..  Wc 
had  obferved  a  neighbouring  village  entirely  aban- 
doned by  its  inhabitants ;  which  frequently  iiappcns 
in  this  country ;  for  when  the  produce  of  the  earth  is 
not  anfwcrable  to  the  cultivation,  the  inhabitants  often 
quit  their  habitati'^us  to  avoid  ooprcdion. 

G  2    '  -YV.ti 


84  AJOURNEY 

.  The  next  rir.y  wc  k-ft  Howarecr,  and  ccntinuiw 
to  tr;>\'el  in  the  Ilime  tlircftion,  in  tlircc  iiour^  rcachcit 
Caviitc^n ;  a  villa^-.-  r.  lirtle  brgrr  than  the  lalt ;  that 
has  r.ho  iV'me  iVaL;:in-:i:b  ot*  marble  which  belonged  to 
anciti'it  tciificff,  as  ihc  I}ir;t'rs  of  cokimns,  Ibme  Co- 
rin'.i-.-.ii  c.:pitaU,  a  Doric  bafe,  and  two  imperfcd 
■  Grttl.  inltripciun:.  V>'e  tliou^'ht  proper  to  ftay  here 
ti.c  ;cr.:;'.::u]tT  or' the  I'.iy,  us  well  to  wait  for  the  reft 
of  il.c  tki-rr  tl.c  i^-  '"-^^  ordi'rcil  to  accompany  ui, 
as  to  prqvirc  OLir  rciiiHn:  and  our  cattle,  for  the  fa- 
tigue ihcy  were  to  Hif"cr  during  the  reft  of  our  jour- 
ixy  :  for  tlicunh  ^^c  loiild  not  perform  it  in  lefs  than 
tv.L-nty-four  IitAirs,  v.c  were  obiigcJ  to  travel  fo  Ion" 
without  np^lV,  tl.tTe  b;ii)jj  no  wjter  in  that  partot 
the  deliirt. 

We  ifft  Cir:ttc:t:i  on  the  13th,  ct  ten  In  the  morn- 
ing, whiLh  w.;«  rni:ili  too  late:  but  our  company  be- 
came nv-rt'  d  i!^,,ul:  to  [govern  in  ]  roportion  as  they 
became  n:o;c  numerous.  This  bid  condutft  ccca- 
j'ioned  o-.ir  [tinjj  exjofud  to  the  hiatof  two  days,  be- 
fore nur  leriib  tO'.:Id  o'otiin  either  nil  or  water:  and 
t!i:ju.'.;;i  it  was  ;u  llic  bcpirr.inp  (;f  tl:c  feafon,  the  fand 
r^Ociti-d  the  he;it  cf  the  fun  with  great  violence, 
while  we  lud  rxitlicr  the  flif-hiell  i;r,-eze  to  rcfrefh  us, 
nor  tLe  1.:;Il  Cii:i(.]c  to  fneltcr  us  iK-v.-]  its  beams. 

Our  c';!:,;T,:iy  vv.-.s  thtri  n.ucli  i;,.TLc;ld,   bv  its  be- 


in^jrixJ   by  :.;:i.-'  i:':r-ci:L!(iry.  I 

'..  ihr.t  it  ecniiiU-d  of 

:.ljuut.:'o   jerluM^,  ;:r,d  ni;.ii!y  i 

:]•:■  ,';.me  number  of 

l;t;',{1;;  t,:'  bi::i!;ei;,  which  f-irniid 

;.  :^:;):efque  mixture 

. :f  holies  ca^xl%  n.i:!-,s:-l  .,:; 

-:     Our  (,'uidi;  told 

ip,  t!:;.t  we  wtT!-  in  \'..c  tr.r.'.'t  «.:. 

.;,;j'r;;',!s  •iiTt  of  our 

joiiriKy,    z.r..\  ci;::rLd   lis  to  f.i 

;:iiir  e:^:.rilT  to   his 

i?r;;tr;:i  which  wc:c,  thr.t  tlii-  dc 

■mdlicsll.A,!d  kc<p 

v/|:h  tl.e  barciV'.-.  i;:i'in:dlrj  iv  1 

1  •-■.■;;:id  our  ;v!.iui  oL 

.*v:-..i:->  i   from  ■.■.;■,;:;■   v.i^   iH'-v. 

:■■:'.;  iii!r.ir..in;d  ore, 

iv/o,  or  M'ji'c  lyv.';V;T.en  0:1   f!.e 

di;  ovrry,   to  :ill  the 

er:-;ir,:r;T.  b;'fo:'-  i-s   v.h:i-f  -.I;:;,' 

iVijed  till  wc  caii'e 

ii|)  v»i;h  ihcm.     'ihtic  l.uillnieii 

1  ^i.hvjys  <.]ui:ted  the 

CJrr.'.  .1-T  c-n  n  fS:'.  'Z-ilhi^^  £f;er 

tl'.e   nuiiner  of  the 

TiiTtan 

^"  TO    PAL  M'Y  R  A.  8^ 

Tartars  and  "HuITars.  It  is  hard  to  Tay  whetlier  this 
precaution  arole  from  a  real  apprchenfion  of  danger, 
or  whether  it  did  not  proccrd  from  an  oUcntatious 
fhew  of  vigilance,  to  nuke  us  conceive  an  h'gh  o[ii. 
nion  of  their  activity  and  ufe. 

The  103d  here  from  Carieteen''  to  Palmyra  wis 
north  and  by  erift,  through  a  level  Tandy  pl:iin  about 
ten  miles  broad,  bounded  to  the  right  an^l  k-fc  by  a 
chain  of  barren  mountains,  that  Itrenied  to  join  within 
two  miles  of  Palmyra.     In  all  this  couril-  tlicre  is  nei- 
ther a  tree  nor  a  drop  of  water :  but  to  take  off"  our 
attention    from  tlie  fatigue  we  endure.1,  our  Arab^ 
horfcinen  diverted  us  trom  time  to  time  by  engaging 
in  mock  fights.     It  is  furprifing  to  fee  with  whS^ 
firmnefs  they  keep  their  faddlcs,  and  the  dexterln™ 
with  which  [hey  manage  their  horfes.     At  ni;iht  chejK^ 
ufually  fa:  in  a  circle,  to  drink  coffee  and  fmokc  si 
pipe:  this  was  thdr  greitcll  regale.    In  r!ic  mewl 
while  one  of  the  company  diverted  ihc  reft  by  fingirgj 
a  long,  or  relating  a  piece  of  hillory,  on  the  ftibjeT' 
of  love  or  war,  or  wiih  an  extempore  tdc. 

When  we  had  proceeded  nine  hours  from  CarictOdn,! 
we  arrived  at  a  ruined  tower,  on  which  we  obJeri-c'dJ 
thecrofs  of  Malta  in  two  or  three  places,  N'ear  ihtla 
lower  arc  the  ruins  of  a  fuperb  building  j  b,:c  a  maz^g 
■  nific^nt  door-cafe  of  white  marble,  is  the  only  partJ 
that  remains  llanding,  and  uncovered  with  land,  AbJ 
midnight  we  llopt  two  hours  to  take  fome  rep  jfc  i  anij  J 
on  the  14th  a:  noon  arrived  at  the  end  of  the  plains  J 
vhcrc  the  mountains  to  [he  ri^ht  and  left  appear  tOi'l 
mcrt.  Between  thefc  mouniams  is  a  valley,  whrrc'lr 
arc  ftill  Icen  the  ruins  of  an  a!j,ucdudt,  thiC  rornWrlfj 
conveyed  watrr  to  Palmyra.  * 

On  each  fide  of  this  valley  arc  many  fqu.ire  towers  ' 
of  a  confiderabic  height-,  a:u!  o.t  approaching  them 
wc  found  that  they  were  the  ancient  fepulchres  of  the  ■ 
inhabitants  of  PaJmyra.    ^cucj  had  vie  p.ii!i.d  thtfc 
venerable  monument!,  when  the  mountains  opening  , 
'"•^cach  fide,  we  fuddcnly  dilcovcrt-d  ilic  grcatelc  ■ 


^iLcacI 


^3 


ijjoau-y 


86  AJOURNEY 

quar.tity  of  pj'n^,  all  of  white  marble,  we  had  enr 
fieT.  zr.j.  I'fliinj  t!io'*e  rcir.s,  toward  the  Euphrates, 
a  lc\- ,]  r..v;ntrv-  i-xic:i;  irxg  as  far  a?  t!ic  eye  could  reach, 
wit!ioi:t  t!;e  li' ill  an.miti^ci  object.  I.t  is  almoft  im- 
pofiirlc-  to  ininyir.;*  any  tliinf^  more  iflomlhing  than 
t>.ij  view.  No  proiprct  can  l?c  conceived  more  ftrik- 
inj  and  rom,:iit!C,  than  Tiich  a  vaft  multitude  of 
('nrl:i:!.iin  colu.T.ns,  with  tew  inifrvening  walls  and 
foli.l  bv,;;^-.nc/. 

Bi't  to  bi.-  inr'ie  parclcuhr:  on  the  left  hand  you 
l;f!.o'n:  a  v.T.il  which  belong^-il  to  the  court  of  the 
tc;ri:l-.-  of  ti:e  f\.m;  and  t!:ough  part  is  broken  down, 
i:  is  ui'a  cn:ir'.!;'r:J>!c  Icr.gth.  A  row  of  twelve  Loble 
■ftimiriWa  r./u  Hiil  iVin.lii"™  t(ii'<.-;r.^ri  and  farther  to  the 
left  ?.?■•  tv.;)  ci'.-.c-:^:  be;v/n.n  iich  is  a  pilafler  of  ihe 
CoriiiLliian  or:'n.rkii'j:or:in^:'iic  (.ntabhiurc  ;  throuoh 
the  fjjrxc  [h.u  ij  Iirokcn  c;  nvn  tho  view  is  terminated 
by  uiilant  rows  of  coliinin",  ;'.nd  cvi.rthe  part  of  the 
vv.;!l  Y.r.xii  is  itiil  ft  iriding  rifr:  rh;.-  ruins^of  the  temple 
i'.ielf.  Ai  tlittnci,  v.  h;.ii' li'iud  the  portico,  isafquarc 
ruinous  tower  built  by  tlic-  'jiirk";.  Before  thcTe 
buildings  arc  inclofures  of  corn  ami  olive-trees  planted 
by  tiic  An;b/,  and  l^'parat-d  by  mud  walls,  while  oi\ 
al!  fides  li.'  ;iround  them  magnitkcnc  ruins. 

Before  the  Turkilh  tower  is  a  piece  of  a  very  large 
co'.urr.n  (landing  on  its  bafe  i  but  the  greatcft  part, 
with  i;s  capital  and  cnrablarure,  has  fallen  down. 
Tlu- iiij-i'.s  I'i.;!  ;'re  aioiind  it  fl.ew  that  there  was  a 
tV'ar.d  tdilrc  in  thi?;  pI-KC'.  The  tJiametcr  of  this  co- 
lumr,  r.'Mr  the  bife  i^  five  fi.et  ;:r.d  .i  h  ilf.  A  little  to 
the  ri^ii.t  of  the  t  ■■.ver,  ilioiijh  dt  a  ;rr'-ater  diftancc, 
are  :!'..■  riiinsora  T'liihllh  i^iijl'iiiie  v.i,h  its  iiiinaret: 
snd  before  it  is  a  ^r-.Wr.]  ':ft!uir;n,  that  rifes  to  a  great 
Kcig'it,  and  h  of  tl.c  f^me  di;;.;  vS.'im  as  that  which  is 
l)ro!;eT  tlovvn,  A  lirtl.-  ir,r:!.(  r  :;'.:■..■  ri;',[it  is  a  noble 
arrli,  with  a  p.;;!'  'tn  rithiy  orrA  r.i.jiird  en  esch  fide, 
troiu  ivliii!i  a  (clonii'le  extuiidi  .'X.'r]  fe'-t  in  length, 
lLr.i!ir..rcd  by  .-;  !'.;oe:h  m;:ii';iii;ii  n.  Many  of  thefe 
col'jmn.i  arc  fdiin  down,  ^nd  cpcn  a  vit:w  to  the 

other 


PAL  MY  R  A. 


.'7 


r  ruins,  wh'iie  inother  parts  the  renalns  of  mag- 
Iccnt  ftruflures  arc  fcea  through  the  intcrcolumniu- 
tions.  At  fomc  dillance  nearer  before  this  magnifi- 
cent coJonadc  ftands  a  fmall  temple,  ailorned  with  a 
noble  portico ;  and  ftill  farther  to  the  right  is  another 
temple,  with  its  pcriftyle,  feen  through  the  interco- 
Iiimniation.  Still  farther  to  the  right  is  a  range  of 
columns  that  appear  to  have  belonged  to  a  portico. 
At  fome  dift:ince  nearer  ft-etn  to  be  the  ruins  of  a 
Chnftian  church-,  and  ftiU  nearer,  and  farther  to  the 
right,  are  four  lofty  columns  with  their  I'upcrb  enta- 
blature, the  only  remains  of  fome  grand  edifice.  A 
litilc  to  the  right  of  thefe,  though  at  a  greater  dil- 
lance, are  a  number  of  columns  which  (iill  fupport 
a  conGdcrable  part  of  their  entabbturc,  and  are  fo 
dHpoled,  that  they  relimble  the  peiHftyle  of  a'  fmall 
temple,  that  has  been  wholly  deftroyed:  and  nearer 
ftill,  and  more  to  the  right,  is  an  elegant  maurolcum. 

Bcfide  ihefe  we  fee  a  vaft  number  of  fcattered  co- 
lumiis  covering  the  p'ain,  fomc  with,  and  fome  wit)i- 
out  their  entablatures,  while  the  ground  is  on  alt 
fides  covered  with  broken  columns,  capitals,  rich 
entabliturcs,  and  ftoncs  of  prodigious  magnitude. 
Toward  the  right  the  diftint  profpeifl  is  terminated 
by  a  rjnge  of  hills  and  mountain-!,  on  cue  of  which 
arc  the  ruins  of  a  Turkifh  f artificaiion,  and  on  another 
is  a  caftle. 

Thefe  were  the  amazing  ruins  which  fudd-nly  ftruck 
our  fight,  and  appeared  at  one  view  in  the  dillanc 
profpect.  After  having  confidcrcd  them  for  fomc 
time,  wc  were  condiifleil  to  a  hut  belonging  ta  the 
Arabs,  of  which  there  arc  about  thirty  in  the  court 
of  the  great  temple.  The  magniBcence  of  that  edi- 
fice, and  the  meannds  of  their  habitation,  formed  a 
contrail  that  was  quite  ailonilhing. 

The  inhabitant::  both  men  and  women  are  wdLn 
ftaped :  the  complexions  of  the  latter  arc  Iwarthjs 
but  their  features  eoai:  thry  were  veiled,  but  tliq 
:  notfo  fcrupuTous  about  Ihcwing  tlicir  faces,  a*' 
G  4  ih? 


JOURNEY 

^he  worncn  of  the  Eaft  generally  are.  Thry  hang 
ringsof  either  gold  or  brjts  in  their  cai's  and  nofcii 
thry  colour  their  lips  blue,  their  eyes  and  eye-brows 
black,  and  the  tips  of  their  fingers  red.  Borh  lexcs 
appear  to  be  very  hcalUiy,  being  almoft  llrangcrs  to 
diH-all-s.  It  feldom  rains  ihsrc  except  at  ths  time  of 
the  equinoxes-,  and  wc  enjoyed  a  A-rene  fky  all  the 
while  we  ftaid,  but  one  afternoon,  when  we  had  a 
lictle  fliower  preceded  by  a  wlilrlwind,  which  raited 
fuch  a  qiiantity  of  fand  .is  entirely  darkened  the  air, 
and  gave  us  an  idea  of  ihofc  terrible  {lorms  that  are 
fomctime^  f^ial  to  whole  caravans.  We  continued 
there  15  djys,  during  which  the  Arab  inhabitants 
fupplied  us  pretty  well  with  mutton  and  goats-flcih  ; 
but  had  wc  ftaid  much  longer,  they  would  have  been 
unable  to  have  furnifhcd  us  with  piovifions. 

As  we  found  it  would  be  croublerome  to  carry  a 
quadrant  fo  far  by  land,  this  prevented  our  taking 
the  latitude  of  the  city  ;  but  according  to  Ptolemy  it 
13  in  34"  latituiie,  and  is  fix  diys  journey  frotn  Alep- 
po, as  many  from  Damalcus  by  the  fai'eft  road,  and 
about  20  leagues  to  the  eaii  of  the  Euphrates.  Some 
geographers  place  it  in  Syria,  others  in  Arabia,  and 
others  in  Phoenicia.  7  lie  city  walls  were  Hanked 
with  fqoare  towers  ■,  but  in  many  parts  they  are  en- 
tirely levelled,  and  cannot  now  be  diftinguilhedfrom 
the  other  ruins ;  particularly  none  of  them  can  be  per- 
ceived to  the  fouih-eafl::  however,  from  what  we  djf- 
covered,  there  is  great  reafon  to  believe  that  they  in- 
clofed  the  great  temple  1  and  therefore  muft  have  been 
atlcaft  3  miles  incompafs. 

The  Arabs  fhewcd  us  by  the  prefent  ruins  4  track, 
of  land  that  may  be  about  ten  miles  in  circumference, 
and  is  a  little  railed  above  the  level  of  the  defart ;  ob- 
'  ferving  that  this  was  the  extent  of  the  ancient  city, 
and  that  ruins  were  difcovcred  there  by  digging.  In- 
deed there  fcems  better  rcalons  in  favour  of  this  opi- 
nion, than  their  authority.  A  cirruit  of  3  miles  wjs 
very  liule  for  Palmyrit  in  its  profperity  ;  cfpecially  if 


i 

1 

I 

I 


J 


I  ofToi 


TO    PALMYRA.  S9 

we  conGiIcr  that  the  greatcll  pan  of  that  fpacc  is  filled 
by -public  edifices,  which  from  their  {::c[raordiii2ry 
niagniBccnce,  and  the  great  number  of  fupcrb  lepul- 
clircs,  are  evident  proois  of  the  grandeur  of  the  city. 
From  thence  it  may  be  concluded,  thac  the  walbd- 
rcady  mentioned  ittclofcd  only  that  part  of  the  city, 
which  contained  the  public  edifices  in  its  molt  fJou- 
rilhing  ftate ;  and  liiat  after  it  was  ruined,  its  (jtuatlon 
rendering  it  the  moft  proper  place  for  puttinj»a  (hap 
to  the  iocurfijns  of  tiic  .Saracens,  Jullinian  fordlicd 
it,  as  we  learn  from  Procopius,  and  very  probably 
conrraclcd  its  bounds.  Palmyra  was  no:  then,  as  ic 
furmerly  had  been,  a  rich  and  trading  city,  in  which 
it  was  neceflary  to  have  a  regard  to  the  intcrcft  and 
convenience  of  individuals  ;  but  a  frontier  town,  tha: 
only  required  ftrength.  Bcfidc,  in  building  the  wall 
JO  the  north-well,  advantage  was  lakcn  ul  tv/o  or 
three  fcpulchres,  which  being  of  a  convenient  form, 
ihcy  converted  them  into  towers;  and  as  there  is  no 
doubt  that  the  wall  was  built  after  tlie  fepulchres,  it 
may  judly  be  concluded  ihac  they  were  erciftcd  fincc 
the  abolition  of  the  pagan  religion:  i!ic  Greeks  and 
Romans  having  toa  grc.it  a  veneration  for  their  fcpul- 
chres to  apply  them  to  any  other  ufc ;  and  it  was  con- 
trary to  tne  moft  cxprcfs  laws  of  both,  to  bury  ihc 
dead  within  the  walls  of  a  city. 

It  has  been  obferved,  that  on  the  top  of  one  of  the 
higbclt  of  thefe  mountains  is  a  cafllc.  The  accent  10 
it  IS  cxttcamly  difficult  and  ragged.  It  is  furroundcd 
by  a  deep  ditch,  cut  in  Uic  rock  \  or  rather  iht-y  lave 
lakcn  the  Itoncs  from  it  as  from  a  quirry.  As  ihc 
draw-bridge  is  broken,  we  found  a  good  deal  of  dif- 
■CcuUy  in  pafilng  it.  This  ciftlc  is  however  li>  ill 
buttt,  thit  it  is  evident,  it  wa^  credcd  not  only  3ft;:r 
the  time  of  JuiUnian,  to  whom  it  is  attribuuO  \  but 
is  even  unworthy  of  the  Ma-iialukca.  Thit  mounuiii 
offords  an  cKlcnfive  view  to  the  fouth^  where  the  de- 
Jattrefemblcs  a  feai  and  to  the  welt  we  may  fee  the 

cop 


90  AJOURNEY 

top  of  LibaniH,  and  diflinftly  perceive  fcvcral  para 
of  Anti-Libanus 

The  barren  trad:  in  wiiicli  the  cirj-  ftands,  might  be 
made  a  del-glitfiil  I'poi,  by  means  of  two  rivers,  thii 
are  entirely  ncgL-£ted.  The  water  of  both  is  hot  arxJ 
mixTd  with  fiilphur-,  bii:  the  inhabitants  cftecm  it 
wh-ilcliimt  ard  agreeable.  The  moflconlidcrablcaf 
thcf--  ftrcams  rilVs  to  the  weft,  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains, in  a  fine  cro::o,  almoft  high  enough  in  th: 
irid'JIe  for  a  man  to  ftarid  upright  in  it.  1  he  whji? 
bott'im  is  a  bafon  of  clear  water,  about  two  feet  de:p; 
and  the  heat  being  thus  concentered  renders  it  an  ex- 
cellent bath,  for  which  purpufe  it  is  ufed  by  th: 
Arabs:  fiom  it  runs  a  rapid  current  above  three  feet 
broad  and  one  foot  deep.  This  water  is  for  foir-e 
fpacc  CLjnfincd  with:n  a  paved  diannel  formerly  mad; 
for  it;  but  after  a  fliort  courfc,  it  is  imbibed  by  the 
fand  CO  the  caft  of  the  ruins.  An  infcription  upon  an 
altar  near  it,  dedicated  to  Jupiter,  informs  us,  thatit 
■was  c.".l!c-d  Ephtra,  and  that  the  care  of  it  was  intruft- 
cd  to  perf'jns  elected  to  that  ofiice. 

The  other  ftrcasTi,  ilie  fource  of  which  we  could 
notdifcovcr,  contains  nfr.r  the  fame  quantity  of  wa- 
ter 1  and  after  running  for  Ibmc  lime  through  the 
riiini,  in  an  anci'.nt  fublerranean  aqueduft,  joins  the 
firfl:,  and  is  loft  with  it  in  the  fnnds.  The  Arabs 
fpcak  of  a  third  Ilrcam  that  has  been  for  fome  time 
loft  among  the  ruins.  .Soms  have  been  much  em- 
barraftt-d  to  accou:u  for  tlie  lofs  of  a  river  mentioned 
by  Ptolemy,  and  therefore  a'tributcd  it  to  an  earth- 
quake: however,  with  rcfpeft  to  thofe  of  Palmyra, 
no  other  change  Ibein-,  to  have  hnppened,  than  whac 
is  thccfFc6l  of  negligence  :  but  if  thefe  currents  arc 
thought  tO)  inconfjderahle  to  di/fervc  the  name  of  ri- 
vers, that  honour  (liould  for  tlie  fame  rtafan  be  refufed 
to  the  pjcloius,  th'-  Md'.s  anJ  many  oclier  rivers  of 
Grt;re,  that  have  not  fy  much  watcrj  except  imme- 
tiiitclv  r.i':fr  rain. 

Befide 


TO    PALMYRA. 

Be&ie  tbdc,  was  the  ^ibccmncui  aqafdoft  be&ae^ 
mcunoocd,  whidi  brou^i  good  imcr  id  tfe  < 
and  was  folidty  tnbh,  witk  open^t  m.  pcapo'  ^^  ] 
onces,  to  keep'  ft  clean.  PncopuM  obi 
JuftinUn  convtTcd  water  to  Pilp^fs.  lor  dK  qfe^ 
the  gairiJoa  be  idt  dne;  bat  we  Mwyat  il^  '~ 
this  purpofe  be  rcpaimi  the  aifitdoBt,  wlatk  a^^  . 
to  have  been  auactt  more  andeM,  «m1  boik  a  la  ■4-1 
xncnTc  cxpcnce.  Palmyni  in  us  {**^|'""T  "T^wfc  1 
could  noc  fail  to  crocufc  dtdi  a  oonvmucBces  aa^l 
indeed,  in  marc  than  ooe  p«n  of  this  aqaeduft,  wk  J 
have  obfcn'cd  intctipbocis  in  P^imTrcne  i  liiiilin^  1 
which  SIC  now  not  Ic^btc »  but  have  fevod  Macs  J 
any  other  language. 

Thiee  or  four  miles  to  die  Iboth-eaft  r£  the  r 
in  the  dcfirt,  h  the  Faiitj  $f  fak,  where  Dmd  j 
bably  fmote  the  Sfiians,  *  Sam.  Titi.  13.  taA  1 
fbU  I'upplics  Djmatciu  and  the  oeigbbourii^  1 
with  great  quantities  of  chat  rommocHlj  ;  the  c 
being  impregnated  with  it  to  a  fwafirttiat 
The)-  hoIlowTthe  grouiKi  upward  of  afoot  deep^'i 
from  the  rain-water,  which  kjdgcs  in  tfacie  cavi 
rifes  a  hne  white  fak.  that  is  gathered  after  tfae  % 
is  dried  up,  or  exhaled  by  the  fun. 

Tbefe  Qobic  remains  of  Palmyra  are  too  I 
and  nugniSccRt  not  to  excite  oar  cunofity  vidi  n 
to  its  conditk>n  io  ancient  umes.  It  is  oaOKal  c 
quire,  how  a  fpoc  hke  thts,  divided  ftom  the  ri 
the  world  by  an  inhor[»cab)e  dHan,  caoK  co  bed 
for  its  fituaticn  )  who  wai  its  Ibuadcr,  and  ftora  * 

Siurtcr  it  drew  the  riches  necefiary  to  m  ft^ipL. 
at  It  is  remarkable  that  hiAory  karcdy  makes  1 
mention  of  Balbec  and  PalrrnTa;  ad  ve  ban  I 
Knowledge  of  ihcm  but  wh«  is  furpheJ  by  infc-.j_  _ 
tions.  Is  not  even  this  hience  of  hinory  inftm^Tcfl 
Docs  it  not  inform  us,  that  there  are  penodt  IQ  b:6at|^T 
that  arc  entirely  concealed  from  us  ? 

By  the  narural  and  ordinary  couric,  ihe  mem 
(jties  is  prefcnrcd  bngrr  ihxn  their  ruins.     It  =' 

fm 


rz  A    J  O  U  K  N  E  Y 

from  Iii.lory  tiuc  wl-  have  any  knowledge  of  Tror, 
Babylon,  and  McnijiliU :  there  does  noc  at  prelec: 
remain  a.  finglt:  ftonc  or  ihcfc  cities,  to  (hew  wHkc 
tlicy  were  fitiuccd :  but  here  are  two  examples  of 
confidcrabk-  citic<>  that  have  fubridcd  longer  than  an/ 
other  known  to  us ;  and  yrt  it  is  rather  what  we  Jee, 
than  wliatwc  read,  that  excites  our  curiofity  conccn- 
ingtheni:  'I  he  Riiiains  of  Balbec  and  Palmyra  f.ill 
fubfifl,  to  relate,  if  wc  may  ufc  the  expreflion,  their 
own  hiftory.  Can  the  lufs  of  books  be  the  caufe,  o: 
did  the  ancients  let  UTs  value  on  thcle  edifices,  than 
wedoat  prefint?  If  this  lall  be  the  cafe,  their  filence 
with  rtfiJidt  tu  Balbec  will  jiiftify  what  they  advanc: 
about  tidbyl'»i;  and  their  not  mentioning  Palmyn 
be  a  kind  of  j-roof  of  the  insgnificcncc  of  Greece 
and  l'-Kyp'>  ^'"^  wliich  they  Ii-vc  bellowed  fuch  en- 
comiums. 

All  tlic  authnritiLS  of  the  ancit-nts  with  refped  to 
this  ti:y,  may  be  rtdiicLd  r>  ihill-.  In  tlic  Aralric 
trandation  of  il.e  letond  book  of  Chronicles,  chap, 
viii.  i'alrv.yra  is  iiiL-niioncd  as  fubliiling  before  the 
liiiit  of  Sylonvjn  :  but  Johnof  Antioch  fays,  that  it 
was  bii:h  i)y  that  nmniirih  on  the  very  Ijjot  where 
David  i!ew  the  I'hiliftinc  t'llef,  in  honour  of  that  me- 
morable action,  iiiit  the  Arabian  hiftories  on  this 
Jiiiijta  =iii;c.ir  fi>  exir-.-nn  ly  fabulous  and  extravagant 
as  t')  be  imwor.  Iiy  ol  notice. 

'Ihc  Old  'J'ldamen:  iI;i<l^.^^s  us,  i  Kings  ix.  and 
2  Chron.  viii.  thut  iioIoin'Jii  tivdcd  a  tiiy  in  the  wil- 
tlcnie!'-,  a;nl  calicJ  it  'iVtinii.r ;  ;iiul  wc  arc  told  by 
Joftj;i-.u.s  tl;::t  the  (irecks  uiul  Kofifans  afterward 
gave  it  the  iiaiuc  of  I'almyra  j  b:;t  that  its  firft  name 
was  nt.riR'd  tiy  the  Syrians  :  ;!!;.!  tliis  is  confirmed  by 
St.  JcroiTi,  v,!;'»  f/.ys  ihit  TeJii  or  iind  J'almyra  are 
l;ic  .^yriJn  arid  (jrccli  ii:u;;ti  of  lli^*  fmie  place  :  even 
ct  prtiVnt  t!;-j  Aiiilb  of  ik-  cuutry  Uill  tall  it  Ted- 
nior.  'I'hcy  i  reier.J  ihiit  t!;c:c  ri:i;.s  were  the  work 
of  Solomon;  and  amun^  <;tiier  ihiiijjs  fhew  the  lera- 
j-lio  of  that  kin!?,  his  Jiarani,  and  thj  ic:nb  of  one  of 

hi» 


TO    PALMYRA.  ^ 

his  favourite  concubines.  "  SoIofllOn,  die  fon  of.. 
iDavid,(ay  they,  perlbrmed  ihcfe  wofideis  byihcaffltK-j 
ajicc  of  Ipirits."  ■la 

Bui  the  ftruftures  creftcd  by  Solomon  were  dootfe-*! 
Icfs  entirely  dcmolifiitid    by  Nebuchadnezzar,  whi!^ 
wc  are  alTurcd  by  John  of  Antioch,  deftroyed  i} 
city,  before  he  bcficged  Jerufalem.     Ic  cannot 
reafonably  fuppofcd,  tnac  edifices  in  the  elegant  ftySs  I 
ofthofe  of  Palmyra  were  prior  to  the  eftablilhrnent  d?l 
tlie  Greeks  in  Syria;  and  taking  this  for  granted,  we  J 
fliall  not  be  furprized  that  Xtnophon  takes  no  noticef  T 
of  this  city  in  his  retreat  of  Cyrus  the  Younger,  thougli  ( 
he  is  very  exaft  in  dcfcriblng  ihe  defart.    Nor  Ihall  we'1 
wonder  at  its  not  being  mentioned  in  the  hifVory  oj^l 
Alexander  the  Great  i  who  might  have  reaped  great,  f 
advantages  from  the  fituatlon  of  that  city,  when  he' 
croffcd  this  defart.     No  mention  is  msde  of  it  even  i 
when  Pompcy  reduced  Syria  to  a  Roman  province  j  j 
ihough  at  that  time  a  taftc  for  the  polite  arts  began 
to  prevail ;  and  architedure,  painting,  and  fculpcure,  j 
were  eflcemcd  not  unworthy  of  the  attention  of  a  Ro-, 
man  general.     One  would  have  imagined  that  Pal-  , 
inyra  would  not  have  cfcapcd  the  avidity  and  avaticfi  j 
of  the  Romans;  and  ycc  wc  do  not  find  that  their -j 
hiftory  makes  any  mention  of  that  city  before  theJ 
time  of  Mark  Antony  ;  who  would  have  plundcrc<tl 
it,  had  iioi  the  inh-bitants  fccured  themfclves   byj 
tranfoorting  their  mod  vaUiable  eUcfts  beyond  ihcS  < 
Euphrates,  and  defendctl  the  paHage  of  that  river  by  ] 
their  archers.    At  that  time  the  inhabirancs  of  Pal>  J 
myra  were  merchants,  and  fold  to  the  Romans  thti  ] 
merchandize  of  India  and  Arabia,      We  may  con- 
clude that  they  were  a  rich  and  frre  people :  but  how 
long  ihcy  had  enjoyed  thefc  advanuges  Is  uncertain. 
Thctr  riches  and  trade  were  probably  of  fome  ftand- 
iiig;  for  it  appears  from  infcriptions,  that  in  lefs  than 
urty  yean  after,  tlieir  ctpcncrs  and  their  luxuries 


9*  AJOURNEY 

At  length,  when  the  affairs  of  the  Romans  in  the 
Eafl  were  in  a  deplorable  fitiiation,  Odcnathus  of 
Palmyra  touk  fuch  advantage  of  the  fuuation  of  hii 
country  between  the  two  great  rival  empires  of  Rome 
and  I'lrfia,  that  he  rendered  himfelf  mailer  of  the 
balance  of  jxjwcr,  and  declared  for  the  one  or  the 
other,  according  zi  the  face  of  affairs  changed,  and 
his  iiucreft  required.  He  entered  into  an  alliance 
with  the  ein;;t:ror  Gallienus,  coUefled  the  poor  re- 
mains of  the  Konian  army,  and  by  his  valour,  aftivity, 
and  remarkable  patience  in  enduring  fatigue,  van- 
quifhed  Sapor  king  of  Perfia  in  fevcral  enga^-mcnts, 
advancing  with  W\s  victorious  troops  asfaras  Ccefiphon, 
the  capital  of  his  empire.  On  his  return  from  this 
expedition,  with  the  prcatefl;  applaufe,  and  withcon- 
fiderable  trtaflires,  GallienLis  declared  him  Auguftus, 
and  his  affuciatc  in  the  gnvernment  of  the  empire. 
Odcnathus  aftirward  defeated  BaHfta,  who  afpired  to 
the  empire,  and  at  length  drove  out  the  Goths,  who 
hr.d  committed  the  grcacefl  rav.i^cs.  1'his  was  hu 
1a{t  exploit,  and  it  it>  thought  that  in  this  expedition 
he  was  trcacherouO/  murdered  by  his  kinfman  MaK>- 
nius:  his  fon  Ilerodes  foon  after  fuffcred  the  fame 
fate.  Mieonius  was  then  falutcd  emperor  ^  but  in  a 
fliort  time  after  was  cut  to  pieces  by  his  own  foldiers. 

Odenathus  left  behind  him  his  wife  queen  Zenobia 
and'two  funs  he  had  by  her,  who  boafted  her  being 
dcfcendcd  from  Ptolemy,  and  reckoned  Cleopatn 
among  her  anctflors.  She  had  m.my  great  and  ami- 
able qualities.  After  the  death  of  Odenathus,  fhe 
aflumed  the  reins  of  government,  in  the  name  of  her 
children  i  and  rcnoiuicin;,'  the  :;il!ance  with  Rome, 
attacked  and  entirely  defeated  Ilcraclianus,  the  Ro- 
man general.  This  viftory  left  iier  in  tlie  pofleflion 
of  Syria  and  Mefopotamia.  She  thtii  by  means  of 
Zabdss,  one  of  her  generals,  coiiqutrcd  Kgypt,  and 
added  to  her  dominions  the  greatcll  part  of  Afia 
Minor.  How  llrange,  how  unaccountable  arc  the 
7  vicinu. 


ss 


^^  TO    PALMYRA. 

viciSitudfSof  ^>mioe!  A  (buH  toricarrmdcv 

of  a  dcfart  extends  iiscoOQocftsOTcrinai^riA* 

cnesi  The  powcrfiil  kingAyns  of  Che  Pwfcmaes  ■ 

the  Scleuddx,  fbnn  i  |urt  c£  the  domiaioos  < ' 

ringic  city,  whole  name  »  fought  ior  in  vaia  kt  t 

hiuorr :    lod   Zcnotua,    hirrouDded  bjr  die  b 

,     faQ(h  of  Palmyra,  includes  Egvpt  wrdaa  ber  i 

nioos  to  the  roiit\  and  extends  tben  go  ibe  a 

^r  u  the  Black  Sea  and  the  Bafplunu.    1 

feign  of  ihts  empiie  was  of  very  fhon  cpntiauaocei 

the  cn-.pcror  AurcKan  a  few  yon  after  rccovetrd  xi^ 

eaftem  provinces,  and  fbrcrd  Zccobb  to  fbeker  bet^ 

felf  within  tltc  walls  of  Palniyra.    He  l»d  6^  n 

that  city;  the  quceo  r^c^rd  all  cegociuiQcs  vid^ 

contempt  but  aftrr  a  bra^e  defence,  the  re&lvcd  ia 

pcrfon  to  iblicit  the  afliftancc  of  the  Perfiaas,     She  fa 

i      out  on  a  dromedat)-  i  but  was  taken  pnfoner  xi  flic 

!       was  about  to  vrofs  the  Euphrates,  by  a  parry  of  bode 

J      fent  aficr  her  by  Aureltan.     The  inhabitants  of  PJ- 

myra  now  (urandered  to  the  empcns^s  mercy  j  on 

I       which  he  Iparrd  tbcir  lives,  and  marched  to  Einif& 

with  Ztnobia,  carrying  with  him  a  great  pan  of  the 

I.      riches  of  the  city,  and  Icavi:^  there  a  gamlba  of  600 

archers. 

Xt  EmiCi  the  emperor  enqmrcd  into  ZeaainA 
moc.ves  for  rcfifting  hmi  with  fuch  refolutian ;  and 
upon  this  occarion  the  l^aincd  her  gicry,  by  pur-, 
chafing  a  d;lhonourab'c  lite,  a:  the  expcncc  of  hn- 
friends  whom  fhc  meanly  betrayed.-  She  mentioned 
thofc  who  had  been  her  advit^  -,  on  which  Aurelian 
had  the  cruelty  a-id  injufticc  to  facriSce  them  to  hi» 
pcfcntment,  while  flie  \va^  rcfcrvcd  to  adom  his  tri- 
umph. Among  thofc  who  fuffered  was  Longinus, 
who  wrote  upon  tlic  Sublime,  and  had  dictated  a 
haughty  letter  his  mi(lrc£  had  wrote  to  the  emperor: 
the  intrepid  courage  with  which  he  fubmiurd. 
his  fate,  fhcws  that  nis  braver;^  was  cqqal  10  his 


,5  AJOURNEf 

The  mi:ibrtunes  of  Palmyra  were  not  yet  ended'. 
When  a  free  people  arc  from  the  hdghc  of  glory  fuj- 
dcniy  reJute.l  to  (lavm',  they  generally  take  fome 
dcfperaie  meafurcs  for  their  deliverance.  The  Fal- 
n^yrents  cut  olT  the  Roman  garrilbn  j  and  Aurclian 
hearing  iTiis  news  m  he  was- returning  to  Rome,  fpcc- 
dily  turned  back.;  and  taking  the  city,  deftroyed  it, 
caiirirg  almoil  all  the  inhibitants  to  be  malTacred 
without  regard  to  age  or  fcx.  VVe  are  informed  of 
the  particulars  of  this  cruelty  by  the  emperor  him* 
fi:\f\  who  in  the  letter  he  wrote  to  BafTus  to  order  him 
to  re-piir  the  temple  of  the  fun,  which  had  been  much 
dumagf-d  by  the  foldiers,  appropriates  to  that  ule 
:^-jo  pounds  weight  of  gold  found  in  Zmobia's  cof- 
fers, wiili  iSoo  pOLintls  weight  of  filvcr,  which  b:- 
longed  to  the  people,  befide  the  crown  jewels. 

Palmyra  having  thus  loft  ii:f  liberty,  continued  fub- 
ieci;  to  a  Roman  governor  j  anJ  from  the  only  Latin 
inkTTption  now  tound  there,  we  are  informed  that 
i  liiirocKs  was  for  the  fifth  time  prefident  of  the  pro- 
vince, when  Dio::lefian  crefted  fomc  magnificent 
tniildiiigs  there.  In  the  year  of  Chrift  400,  the  Brft 
lliyrisn  Ifgion  was  quartered  at  Palmyra  j  but  Pro- 
ropi'.is  gives  lis  rcafon  to  think  that  the  city  was  lb 
It'tle  regarded  as  to  be  fometimcs  without  a  Roman 
garriibn  :  for  he  fays  that  Juftinian  repaired  and  fup- 
p!  ed  i:  vvirh  wctcr,  after  its  having  been  for  fomc 
time  aiinod  dcferted.  This  is  the  laft  time  tV.at  Pal- 
myra is  nrxntioned  in  the  Roman  hiftory.  The  civil 
revoluiions  of  this  city  aiTord  a  proof  that  Chriftianity 
c-.'iiid  not  be  long  eftablifticd  there,  fo  that  it  i»  noi 
Ijrprizing  t!:atccclefiaftical  hiftory  furnifhes  nothing 
wonli  the  pjiiis  of  repealing  j  and  there  is  no  means 
of  knowin^j  what  has  happened  to  it,  fince  the  de- 
ftr.t.';Vion  of  the  eailcrn  empire  by  the  Mahometans, 

A  tv^ng  :hc  feveral  infcriptions  found  there,  none 

rre  more  ancient  than  the  bi'th  of  Chrift;  and  none 

io  late  as  liie  dtrtruftion  of  the  city  by  AurcliaO, 

.  •    cxce^' 


\ 


PALMYRA. 


hfpt  the  Latin  infcription  which  makes  mencicHi  of 
Diociefian.  The  sra  oftliefe  infcriptiuns  h  thac  ot" 
the  Seleucidx,  Some  of  [hem  are  found  in  the  Pa^ 
myrene,  and  others  in  Greek  characters.  Two  of  the 
maufoleums,  which  are  almofl  entire,  have  on  their 
fronts  infcriptions  that  arc  very  legible  ;  one  of  rhcm 
informs  us  that  Jamblichus,  the  fon  of  Mocimirs, 
caulcd  that  monument  to  be  built,  to  ferve  as  a  fe- 
pulchre  for  him  and  family,  in  the  year  514,  which 
anfwers  to  the  third  year  of  the  ChritKan  sera ;  and 
the  other,  that  ElabeUis  Manaius  cauied  it  to  be 
ereflcd  in  the  year  4r4,  the  103d  year  of  the  Chrif- 
tiaii  sera.  The  ornaments  of  ihcfc  two  maufoleums 
are  rtiuch  in  the  fame  tafje;  but  the  laft  is  [he  nioft 
elegant,  and  finiOied  with  the  greatcft  care :  though 
both  arc  fo  much  in  the  tafte  and  the  manner  of  the 
other  public  edifices  in  general,  that  we  may  reajbn- 
ably  fuppofe  them  noE  to  be  the  works  of  very  diifcf- 
cnt  ages. 

Betore  we  had  complcatcd  our  bufmefs  at  Palmyri, 
our  Arabian  cfcort  began  to  be  impatient,  and  to  fo- 

-  licit  our  dcpartm'e  j  aUeging  that  our  fefety  in  return- 
ing was  much  more  prec-irious  than  in  Ollr  jOUinty 
thitlier ;  as  they  had  then  only  accidental  dangers  to 
apprehend,  while  they  were  now  to  provide  agjinft  1 
premeditated  liirprize  from  the  king  of  the  Bedouins 
or  wandtring  Arabs ;  who,  on  his  having  intelligence 
of  us,  might  think  us  a  prize  worth  looking  aJter. 
We  had  hkewife  our  own  reafoiis  for  mare  than  ordi- 
nary folirinide  j  for  we  were  much  more  anxious  about 
prelerving  the  irenfure  wc  brought  from  Palmyra, 

■  than  ths:  which  we  carried  thither.     By  their  advi<'c 

-  we  concealed  both  our  intended  road  back,  and  the 
time  wc  propcled  (6  fct  out;  and  on  the  27th  of 
March  left  Palmyra :  where  its  few  miferable  inhft- 
b'tanti  erpreflM  ihc  utmoll  aftonilhmcnt,  at  a  wiiii;, 

'    ,  ("f  wh'ch  they  couM not  ccrnprtliend. 

ned  a^  far  as  Sudud,  by  the  lame  tw-efoiflB 
'.  Ehe  dclari,  which  w£  hive  already  dJb- 


i 


9t  A    JOURNEY 

fcnbedl,  in  aur  joumcf  to  PaJm^ra.  But  bdbrca# 
arrived  at  Carinren,  we  tlifcovercd  «t  a  diftvicc  H 
pan;  of  Arabun  horitmcn,  to  wfaich,  bad  thef  1x9 
lU})erior  in  number,  we  mull  have  fallen  aa  caiy  ptcf, 
in  die  hnguid  Aiie  to  whkti  both  our  mca  zaabixia 
were  reduced,  after  a  march  of  about  cwecc^  bout 
over  the  (luming  lands :  but  on  our  nearer  appnwk 
the)'  retired  with  precipiution,  abandoning  fome  cat 
de,  which  were  lazed  by  our  friends,  as  a  matter  al 
courfe,  laughing  at  our  renKxillranccs  ^ainll  chnr 
ittjufttce. 

Bdc^  arrived  at  Sudud,  we  left  our  ibrmer  road 
on  the  right  hand,  aqd  in  6ve  hours  toore,  procxot- 
ing  lliH  rhrough  the  fame  defart,  reached  Cara,  what 
wc  tnok  kavc  of  the  greateft  part  of  our  caravaik 
The  nujDLrcripu  and  marbles  we  had  coUe&edi  wc 
fern,  on  cameU  to  our  (hip  at  Tripoly :  the  tncrclumo 
who  had  joiiKd  us  for  procc^ion,  returned  n>  Da> 
mafcus  with  tlie  fait  they  went  (o  gather  at  Palmyni 
and  our  Arabian  horTcmen,  who  were  now  aa  loagcr 
of  u(e,  having  demanded  a  certificate  of  their  fiddi^ 
and  vigilance,  which  they  jullly  deferved,  retumod 
to  their  mailer,  the  aga  of  1  Jaflia. 

We  had  paOed  through  Cara  before  in  going  iroH 
Damascus  to  HafTia;  from  the  lafl  it  is  about  fix 
hours  diJlant,  and  is  under  the  govemntent  of  the 
Cuncaga.  This  village  is  pleaJandy  fituated  in  the 
great  caravan  road  from  Damai'cua  to  Aleppo,  and. 
we  were  informed,  contains  near  looo  louts,  amongft 
whom  are  about  twenty  Chriftian  families.  There  it 
one  ruined  church  to  be  fccn  there,  and  another  con- 
verted  into  a  mofque  :  upon  the  wall  of  the  latter  is  « 
line  of  Greek  capitals  in  a  bad  charattfr,  turned  up> 
fide  down,  in  which  we  could  read  the  words  ^/i*. 
njijiot  Epi/copos.  The  common  mud  formed  into  the 
flupe  of  bricks  and  dried  in  the  fun,  of  which  tbe 
houfes  arc  built,  has  at  fome  dillancc  the  apF>earaii9 
of  white  ftone.  The  Iliort  duration  of  fuch  matei" 
U  not  the  only  obje&ion  to  them,  for  they  render 


eri^| 


TO    PALMYRA. 


99 


^T&rcts  dufiy  when  there  is  mod,  and  dirty  «hco  there 
I  is  rain  :  inconveniencies  that  are  al£>  felt  at  DamaJcui 
j       idclf,  which  is  moftly  built  in  the  Ome  nunncf. 

After  fufiering  alnioft  2  month's  conH^n:  fauguc  in 
thedcfait,  particularly  at  Falmyrj,  whox  cv^r)- houf 
was  precious,  we  here  iodul^d  ourfcJva  ititii  a  di/ 
of  rcJi  i  and  by  dus  Ihort  imerval  of  Cccunijr  and  le- 
pofc,  prepared  ourlek es  for  new  £uigucj. 

We  thco  Tec  QUI,  and  arrived  at  Erulc  ia  le-.-cn 
hpuTa,  proccedu^  the  greatcft  pan  of  the  way  acrufe 
the  barren  ridge  of  hUb  csHed  Ami-Ubanus.  Thi« 
village,  whkh  conliQs  of  thirty  poor  hotrics.  was  the 
only  one  we  pafled  through  in  our  way  from  Cara  to 
Balbcc.  Wc  found  nothii^  there  worth  notioe,  ex- 
cept a  melanchoiy  infUnce  of  the  unhappy  gareni' 
meat  of  tbele  countries :  the  boufcs  were  ;iil  opcub 
every  thing  carried  ojf,  and  oot  a  living  creature  t|^ 
be  jccn.  We  were  informed  that  the  governor  ^^ 
Balbcc's  brother  was  then  in  open  rebellion,  ravagtiu^j 
the  coumry  with  a  party  of  his  dd'pcnie  fciUoweiaa 
and  it  feems  that  when  we  pafled  ihrajgH  ErTalc,  ^1 
was  encamped  in  its  oeighboiirr^aod,  u.i  which  tif  J 
inhabitants  chofe  10  abandon  their  dwciiixig^  radi^ij 
dun  expotc  thcmfelves  to  iiich  unmcrcjul  coatriblM 
tions  u  he  had  raifcd  in  other  places.  -,  j 

Impatient  to  leave  a  place  o£  fuch  danger,  we  ttl 
out  early  the  next  moming,  and  in  five  hours  and  mi 
half  arrived  at  Balbcc.     This  city,    which  was  fafr\ 
merly  under  the  government  of  Dimilcut,  and  loa^j 
years  Once  the  refidence  of  a  baila,  is  at  preibu  comr  1 
□landed  by  a  pcrfon  of  no  higher  rank  than  thai  q^j 
aga;  wlw>  preferring  the  more  honourable  title  tfi 
emir,-  whicii  he  had  by  his  birth,   to  that  ot'  lus  &*^y 
tion,  was  called  Emir  HaHcin:  ibr  tj\c  Arabs  hivft.. 
hereditary  nobility  vid  family  conrrcfUons,  cuatrarjr 
to  the  policy  of  the  Pone,  vhich  is  dcliioui  of  fup* 
.,-,-tr-no>  ii;  influence  that  the  grand  fionior  cannat  1 
-:c  away  at  pkafure. 
.-rnor   annually  pajd  the  gzK^  GgiiiarJ 


A'  'J  d  U  R  N  E  TT 


fifty  purfes  for  the  raxes  of  tlie  (liftri£t  under  his  tom- 
munU  :  lie  alio  paiJ  iiliy  jiiulcs  yearly  for  lands,  granc- 
ci  a',  rewardi.  for  military  li  rvitc,  and  fanned  by  him. 
'i  h-^ifi;  laivh,  wc  wi  re  mltl,  were  much  more  profit- 
able 10  !iiiii,  tlian  to  the  prrlons  fur  whole  benclit  the 
grant  W3:>  originally  i'ltLiidcd,  on  account  of  che  dif> 
hculiy  aiid  danrrtr  ''f  a'ly  man's  pretending  to  the 
fanx  tinti  ai^iiiiut  P>  powcrliil  a  compe:tcor.  He 
oi'^'ht  alfo  to  (:;:vc  iniil  limefhinj,'  to  the  baflk  of  Da. 
in.ilci:s,  for  Ian  ■,  h:  lirlil  under  him  j  but  he  had  for 
i'lTAL-  cimr-  fviul-  CI  i;,  hiin,;  (kreencd  by  the  kiflar  agi, 
m  i!ic  Wiik  (imiH  li,  w'lo  has  the  c.ire  of  the  grand 
i'l'n:  r%  \v;:ivn,  to  w.  l>:ii  he  was  fjid  to  be  unocr 
p;ivu-(-  (■'.:. tiiiuiti-m. 

We  i^xX  vwT  I-:il.',inf;s  of  a  Greek  to  whom  we 
w(  re  r'.t')i;rr.uiiii,J,  .iml  llicn  waited  on  the  emir, 
wlic::i  v'f  f'.iinil  in  a  LiiiDftjiii;  in  his  garden,  reclined 
en  .1  if-p'-.x  iiiur  .1  i.»'int;iiii,  and  indolently  enjoy>- 
inji  ii-  [:;e.  ( .'n  mir  prrlcntin;^  him  without  firmao 
from  ti  I-  <M.  iul  1";  iiior,  and  a  Uncr  from  the  baOaof 
'jii  oly,  wi;  Wire  iiioil  (.uiirrL'oiilly  received.  A  pipe, 
cufle,  I'w  i-tt  iie.it  ■,  :ifid  pLTiunie,  were,  according  to 
ciuo:!:,  Iiuxcfiivvly  piel'.-r.tL-J.  He  applied  the  fir- 
nsan  rvtitf.rully  d  J.  s  io:\liia'I,  then  kifi'cd  it,  and 
declaR-d  himieli  ['i  r..:,.in'i,  fiiivc's  (lave  :  told  us  that 
the  Iraid  he  C!);iiiv,.ii!d:d,  ;ind  all  in  it  was  ours-,  that 
v.e  were  lli^  v/.Ilci;-,.  j^.ieil;  as  lony  as  we  wuulcl  ftav, 
and  iin-ier  iiii  irieJ).:i/  proittLion  might  iccurdy  pu'r- 
fuediir  biifinili. 

Ill  no  ijiititu'c  di  t'le  nivjiul  in.inncrs  fhcw  theft 
pMjpleinfo  aniii.iili  '.  Ii.;,'ii,  ;-s  in  tlicir  diiiliar^eof 
tVii:  Lli:'.if-s  '■:'  h.if.  ii.::  cy  ;  tlie  llveriti-,)  yf  caltern  dc- 
ipoilu;  l-,.i.fi:i  !.>■  ;  I  i,;'ii  iilv-'i^jN  loftcned  hy  tiiis  vir- 
tue, v.'iiiLh  i.)  \'.^-\  ■'■)■  li';i:j..':!s  ncifl,  where  it  is  moft 
wN'i!-;-,'.  i  i.e  ;;;  ■  -.n-'ei  :!iO  iiiiotence of  power  to 
t!v:  ;V.::'.'^.  rurs-  er  •'■-.•i  r  jd/,  .Lod  only  preerve  a.dig- 
n'tv  !<■'  'e:rp'Tfi  !'/  h';  ;iLi;::!y,  t!iut  it  iitioly  com- 
mands i::ii  ;:.-;i:'-rii!  n.s-.trift,  whitli  isothcrwife  fcarcc- 
ty  knoivn  in  a  v-:\\;\:ry  v/L^:c  interiors  arc  oftener 
wiijzii:  If  kiii'  U:«n  lo  love. 

Noiwitifc. 


>■  TO    PAL^fVRA 

Notwithftandifig  the  crni-' 
}ud  been  advised  to  tjiftn:  ; 
famous  charachr;  and  wc  I.l 
jullicc  of  this  friendly  cautian.  Tb-JOih,  io:..t\jing 
to  the  cuftom  of  the  country,  -ws  hid  fmr  o'.*t  prr- 
fcnis,  yM  new  dcnunds  were  da'ly  made,  which  wc 
for  fomc  time  thought  it  adviiab'te  xj  fati4yi  but 
ihey  wrre  16  frequently,  and  at  length  lo  mlblcntly 
repeated,  that  wc  vFcn  oMigcd  id  give  a  pcrcTipcory 
refulkL 

Avarice  is  as  much  an  eaftem  vice,  as  hofpfnliQ-  rs 
an  eallcrn  virtue.  The  moll  IbrJid  infra-,  s^  cf  the 
/ormer  we  Tound  among  the  great,  ^ 
lie  employments,  while  wcexpcrc  ■. 
inftanccs  of  genrrofiry  in  prii-it!.-  !  ■ 
therefore  be  cautious  of  ctuirc;-n^  xo  i..:  <l.x 
a  people,  what  this  goveranient  fcemJ  ti  reqtn 
Por  amidit  the  uninterrupted  fcriei  of  Ihauirlefs  yc: 
lity,  which  rrgulitrs  (he  difvKirge  of  ever)-  ] 
duty,  from  (he  prime  vizier  dow-n*ird  ;  and  whiC 
in  the  true  fpirir  of  dcfpsv.l'Ti,  i'o;::s  only  ai 
wretch  who  is  too  low  to  make  rcpiiuls;  every  fubj 
tern  in  power  muft  fubiilt  to  ihit  pOLtioii  of  the  c 
moo  proftitution  whith  b-liings  to  his  rank, 
which  therwore  Icenis  rsther  the  vice  of  the  office 
ihan  of  the  man. 

The  frequent  negoiijrions  produced  by  this  qusrrc!, 
io  which  the  emir  in  vain  excttc  1  aii  hi*  art  and  »^ 
Jainy,  ended  in  his  opiniy  deciuin^  that  we  Ibotilai 
be  attacked  arul  cut  lo  pieces  'in  our  wsy  fi'om  Bol- 
bcc  :  but  on  his  bearing  that  tKcfc  itteiuccs  hid  not 
the  effciA  he  expeftcd,  and  ihat  we  were  pref^-arng  to 
let  out  wiih,aboui  20  ar.xej  TrvjiKs,  he  cmily  lent 
to  defire  (hat  we  might  interchange  prrfcms  aiKl  i 
friends,  requelting  Oiac  we  would  ailnw  his  p 
guard  u.t  as  far  -ss  mount  Llbjuus.  1  o  ibis  we  agree 
fKXin  att«r  he  was  aiTitTinated  by  an  cminary  of  His-" 
n-belIiou£  brctber,  who  fuccceded  him  in  the  ^ 


A  N 

A     C     C     O     U     N      T 

or      THE 

RUINS     OF     B  A  LB  EC, 

THE     ANCIENT 

HELIOPOLIS    IN    CCELQSYRIA. 

TH  E  valiey  of  Bocat,  in  which  Balbec  is  fitnatedt 
might  be  rendered  one  of  the  richeft  and  molt 
beautiful  fpots  in  Syrra  -,  for  it  is  more  fertile  than  the 
celebrated  vale  in  Damafcus,  and  better  watered  than 
the  rich  plains  of  Efdraelon  and  Rama.  In  its  pr&- 
lent  ncgledled  (late  it  produces  corn,  and  Ibme  gtx>d 
grapes;  hut  though  Ihade  is  an  elTennal  articJeof 
oriental  luxury,  it  has  but  few  plantations  of  treei, 
the  inhabitants  being  difcouraged  from  labours,  which 
promife  fuch  dillant  and  precarious  enjoyment,  in  a 
country  where  even  the  fruits  of  their  induftryare 
uncertain.  Thus  in  Palcftine  we  have  often  feen  tbie 
hufbandiTian  fowing,  accompanied  by  an  armed  friend, 
to  prevent  his  being  robbed  of  the  feed.  ' 

The  plain  which  extends  in  length  from  Balbec  almoHfc 
to  the  fea,  and  in  breadth  from  Libanus  to  And-LU 
banus  -,  appears  to  be  in  few  places  lefs  than  two  ' 
leagues,  or  more  than  four  over.  The  rivers  by  which 
it  is  watered  are  the  Litane  and  the  Bardouni :  the  firft 
rifcs  f.om  Anii-Libanus  a  little  to  the  north  of  B;d- 
bec,  and  receives  great  increafe  from  a  fine  fprii» 
clofe  by  the  city  walls  ;  the  laft  rifcs  from  the  foot  « 
Libanus,  and  joins  the  Litane  in  the  plain^  about  an 

hour 


■^  AN    ACCOUNT.  &c.  103 

hoar  from  a  village  called  Barillas.  Thcle  ftreamsj 
augmented  by  feveral  conftant  rills  from  the  melting 
fiiows  of  Libanus,  which  the  lead  managemeni  might 
improve  to  all  the  purpofes  either  <rf"  agriculture  or 
pleafure,  form  the  Cafimiah,  and  under  dia:  name 
enters  the  fra  near  Tyre. 

Balbcc  is  pleafanrly  fituated  upon  a  rifitig  ground 
near  the  north-eaft  extremity  of  this  plain,  between 
Tripoly  of  SjTia  and  Damafcus,  and  about  16  hours 
diftant  from  each.  "We  may  with  certainty  ci)r!clude» 
that  this  was  the  Heliopolis  of  CoelofyriJ,  fometimcs 
called  the  HeliopoHs  of  Phcenicia.  It  has  now  about 
5000  inhabitjnis,  a  few  of  which  are  Greek  and  Ma- 
ronite  Chriftians-,  and  there  are  fome  Jews  ;  but  the 
people  art  at  prcfent  poor,  without  trade  and  mantt- 
raftures.  The  ancient  fcmaie  beauty  and  prollimiion 
of  the  women  in  this  neighbourhood  feem  to  have  d*- 
clined  together ;  and  the  modern  ladies  of  Bdlbec  liave 
the  charailer  of  being  more  chaftr  and  Icfs  fair. 

When  wc  compare  the  ruins  of  B;dbec  with  thofc 
erf"  many  ancient  cities  we  have  vifited  in  Greece, 
Egypt,  and  other  parts  of  Afia,  we  cannot  help 
thinking  them  the  remains  of  the  bolJeft  plan  that 
appears  to  have  been  ever  attempted  in  architeilure. 

In  takings  view  of  this  city  J-r6m  the  foLnh,  wcfcc 
the  prcfcnt  town  p ncompafied  with  its  wall,  and  at  the 
call  end  the  mod  conliderablc  ruin?  of  the  ancieiA 
Heltopolis  particularly  the  remains  of  its  magnificetK 
iTOlplc,  which  are  moftly  furroundcd  by  a  Turkilh 
fortification. 

The  porrico  which  foimed  the  grand  front  of  the 
icmplc  ii  fo  noble,  thai  no  ornaments  fccm  wanring 
to  render  it  compleat ;  but  it  is  disfigured  by  the  two  1 
Turkifh  towers  built  on  its  ruins.  Behind  it  thbl 
hexagonal  court,  into  which  the  portico  Icids,  it  J 
adorned  with  the  moll  magnificent  buildings,  now  ih  j 
ruins :  but  enough  is  ftill  left  to  give  an  idea  of  thdr  J 
an4;ient  grandeur.  The  walls  are  adorned  with  piUI^I 
,01  [he  Corinthian  order,  with  niches  for  lvalues  1  • 
H  +  the 


g|K-« 


104.  An  ACCOUNT  of  the 

tlie  doors  are  iincty  ornamented,  and  the  entabUturQ 
which  furrounds.the  building  above  the  pilallcrs  ii 
riciily  adorned  with  ffftooni :  but  die  colonade  which 
furroiintlcd  tliLle  cJiIilcs  is  dcflroyed,  Icarcely  iny 
thing  rcmuining  but  the  [Kdcllalsj  and  the  whole 
court  is  rov^rtd  with  broken  columns,  capitals,  ancj 
other  parts  of  the  buildings. 

This  leads  into  a  quadrangular  court,  in  which  are 
likewifc  remains  oi  magnificent  buildings  much  in 
the  fame  calte.  I'hc  portico  was  crowned  with  aq 
Atiic  courfe,  which  was  alfo  carried  through  the  twQ 
courts,  and  fcems  to  have  been  ornamented  witti 
fta:ues. 

We  now  come  to  the  great  temple,  the  approach 
to  which  was  through  the  foregouig  portico  and 
courts.  Little  more  of  this  edifice  remains  than  nine 
lofty  cokmns  fupporting  their  entablature.  It  is  t> 
maskable,  that  the  Ihafts  of  thcfe  columns  conliAof 
three  pieces  moft  cxaftiy  joined  Dagether  without  ce- 
ment, which  is  ufed  in  no  part  of  thefe  buildings; 
tlicy  being  only  ftrengthened  with  iron  pins  received 
into  a  fockct  worked  in  each  ftone.  Mgft  of  the 
bafcs  have  two  fuch  fockcis,  one  fquarc  and  another 
rirc'jiar,  covrefpondJng  to  two  others  of  the  (ame 
finpu  and  dimcnfions  in  the  under  part  of  the  Hiafc 
On  meafiiring  fome  of  the  largoll  of  thofe  that  werg 
.Cii-cul.ir,  it  wu.".  founJ  that  the  iron  pin  which  they 
rcct  ivcd  niuH  have  bt-tM  a  fuoi  long,  and  above  a  foot 
in  diaincter.  IJy  the  lockets  in  ;iU  the  fallen  fragr 
in?[Ks  of  t'lis  ti.mpk',  it  appears  t!i.u  each  ftone  had 
probibly  been  lafLcn:-i'.  in  this  niariiur.  iluwmuch 
this  method  coniribiiuJ  to  lii.-  {l:eiij^di  of  the  build- 
injx  h  remarkably  itcn  in  i!r  mr,±  tntii-e  temple, 
wht-TC  a  column  hai  f  ilk'n  iit;.'.;iil  liie  wall  of  the  cell 
wirli  fucli  vii/ic:i.t,  a;  ;;;  Ix-C  in  ti.c  fttaie  it  fell 
rv^ii\n\\:,  and  briiik  pi-:rt  of  tiif  fiirffi,  while  thejoin- 
jii{r?  of  the  farrx'  JIi^il  have  lioi  Ltvn  in  tyic  leall  open- 
ed bv  the  ihodv.     ' 

The 


RUINS  of  BALBEC. 


105  , 


The  moft  entire  temple  is  irregularly  placed  widl'1 1 
rcfped  to  the  former,  and  is  a!fo  built  upon  a  much'"  I 
lower  horizontal  plan.  It  was  a  perjftyle  of  cigbc^  1 
columns  in  front,  and  fifteen  in  Hank,  which  ItiHj'j 
continue  to  fupport  their  entablature,  notwithftandin^^l 

-    fcvcral  unfuccclsful  attempts  of  the  Turks  to  deftroy' 
ihem,  in  order  co  get  at  the  iron  employed  in  rtrengtS»' 
cning  this  noble  building.     The  arch  of  the  portico  , 
is  divided  into  compartments  by  the  richcft  moulding  J 
and  carved   work,  cut  in  the  folid   ftone.     Thefe  I 
compartments  are  in  an  alternate  fucccllion  of  one- 1 
hexagon  and  four  rhomboids,  inclofing  figures  ani'.l 
heads  in  alto  relievo.    The  rhomboid  panncls  coniaia.  " 
heads  of  gods,  heroes,  and  emperors ;  the  hexagon  | 
alfo  contain  the  heads  of  the  fame  fubjccts,  and  fomc-' ; 
times  entire  figures  relating  to  the  ancient  mythology  %• , 
as  Lcda  and  the  Iwan,  Ganymede  riding  on  the  bick 
of  an  eagle,  a  half-length  of  Diana,  Sic.     On  tfrf 
inlide  of  this   temple  a  row  of  fluted    Corintliii^ 
columns  reach  to  the  top  of  the  building,  fupportiiij 
a  rich  entablature.     Between  each  column  h  a  nicl^ 
finely  ornamented,  and  above  each  niche  a  tabernac? 
or    opening  antwcring    to   it,  lupported    by    fmd 
columns.     The  roof  is  fallen  down  >  and  out  of  t 
fuins  of  the  entablature  grow  many  Ihrubs. 

At  Ibmc  diftance  to  the  wt-ftof  thercfuperbrcmai^ 
of  antiquity,  is  a  magnificent  circular  temple,  '^'- 
order  of  [his    ftrufture  without  is  Corinthian,    and 

'  within  bo[h  Corinthian  and  Ionic ;  but  the  Diafc^  of 
all  the  columns  arc  of  one  piece.  The  tower  or  Ionic 
ftory  !■{  cnnvcricd  into  a  Greek  church,  and  for  that 
purpoic  is  fcparated  ifi-o.-n  the  higher  or  Corinthian 
itory. 

On  ihe  foutlnvcft  part  of  the  city.  Where  the  * 

Ca  fmall  part  oi' the  fuut  of  Anti-Liha'mj?,  i 
Doric  coluaw,  of  confidcrdble  height  i  . " 
g  in  |cs  lizc,  proportiotu,  or  workm.iitfhTj: 


io6  An  ACCOUNT  of  die 

ib  remarkable  as  a  tittle  bafon  on  the  top  of  its  capkJf 
vhich  has  a  communication  with  a  femicimUv 
channel  cut  lor^itudinally  down  the  fide  of  the  finfi; 
and  live  or  fix  inches  dr^cp.  It  is  fajd  chat  water  mi 
formerly  conveyed  from  the  bafon  by  this  cfaanndi 
but  hnw  the  balbn  was  Tupplied,  our  anchor  onld 
not  learn.  » 

The  fmal  pan  of  the  city  at  prefent  inhatnted,  a 
nrar  the  circular  temple,  and  to  the  fouth  and  Ibutb- 
wefl  of  it.  In  this  compala  there  are  feveral  minareti^ 
or  lurkilh  ftecples.  Inftead  of  bells,  which  arc  not 
ufcd  in  i'urkey,  a  perfon  is  employed  to  call  the  people 
to  prayen,  from  the  balcony  near  the  top  of  the 
m'lnarei,  at  the  five  dated  times  appointed  every  14 
hours  for  divine  worihip. 

^'he  city  walls,  like  thofc  of  moft  of  the  other 
Ancient  cities  of  A  fia,  feeni  the  confufed  patch-woii 
of  different  ages.  The  pieces  of  capitals,  broken 
entablatures,  and  in  fume  places  revcrfed  Greek 
infcriptions,  to  be  fecn  in  going  round  them,  ibew 
that  tneir  lall  repairs  w?re  made  after  the  decline  rf 
taftc,  with  fuch  materials  as  lay  ncareft  at  hand.  The 
city  gates  in  general  correfpond  with  what  has  been 
laid  of  the  wws ;  but  that  on  the  north  fide  prcfenn 
the  ruins  of  a  large  fubafTcment  with  pedeflaU  utA 
bafcs  for  four  columns,  in  a  tafte  of  magnificence 
and  antiquity  much  iupcrior  to  that  of  the  othet 
gates. 

Near  the  city  walls  is  a  quarry  of  free-ftone,  from 
which  probably  the  immenle  ftones  employed  in  the 
fubafliment  of  the  great  temple  were  taken,  while  the 
more  ornamented  parts  of  thofe  buildings  were  fup- 
plied  from  a  quarry  of  coarfe  white  marble  weft  of 
the  city,  and  at  a  i^rcattr  diftance.  In  the  firit  quany 
there  are  ftill  remaining  Ibme  vad  ftones  cue  and 
fliaped  for  ufe.  One  of  thefc  ftones  thus  fhaped,  but 
not  entirety  detached  from  the  quarry  at  the  bottom. 


RUINS  <rf  BALBEC. 

Vte  foaraj  to  be  70  feet  long,  44  broad,  and  14  fcct 
5  inches  deep.     This  ftortc,  according  to  theic  d^ 
mcnfidns,  contains  14,128  cubic  fecr,  and,  were  it  i 
Ponland  ftone,  fhould  weigh  about  2,2  70,000  poundj ,  J 
avoirdupoife,  or  about  1135  tons.  :  T 

The  inhabitants  of  this  country,  bprh  Mahomctamtf 
Jews,    and  Chriftians,    all  confidently  believe   thsi  ' 
Solomon  built  both  Palmyra  and  Batbcc.     Indeedi  * 
the  ruins  of  bo^h  anfi*rer  oar  ideas  of  his  power  an^  1 
riches,  and  It  is  not  difficult  to  difcover  his  wtfdonl  ; 
in  the  former,  and  his  love  of  pleafure  In  the  latter; 
It  is  probable  that  his  charaftcr  as  a  wife  and  yc8  , 
voluptuous  Prince,  may  have  given  rife  to  an  opiniuit 
which,  with  rcfpcift  to  Balbec  at  leaft,    frcms  to  have 
fcarccly  any  other  foundation :  for  any  Eaftern  monarclj 
couid  not  enjoy  his  favourite  pieafures  in  a  mort  ' 
luxurious  retirement,  than  amidft  the  ftreams  aa^ 
shades  of  Balbec.     Many  llorics  arc  there  told  of  ibi!  1 
jnanner  in  which  he  fpcnt  his  hours  of  dalliance  in  thii  ^ 
ittrcat  .■  a  fubjed  on  which  the  warm  imagination  of 
the  Arabs  is  apt  to  be  too  particular. 

Whether  the  Phccnicians  did  not  eredl  thcfe  tcmplea 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  their  capital,  may  be  a  more 
reafonablc  enquiry :  for  it  is  pretty  certain,  that  th#  1 
fun  was  worfhippcd  here  in  the  flouriJhing  times  rf  i 
rfiat  people,  when  this  plain  was  probably  a  partflf  J 
their  territory.  ..  f 

According  to  Macrobjus,  the  city  derived  borfj  i^  3 
name  and  worfhlp  from  Heliopolis  in  Egypt :  and  ha  J 
obfervcs,  that  the  ftatuc  of  Heliopolitan  Jove  wai" 
brought  from  thence  to  this  city.    "  This  divinityi 
he  oofcrves,  was  both  Jupiter  and  the  Sun  :    whiciii 
he  adds,  appears  by  the  rites  of  the  worihip,  and  I^'  I 
che  attributes  of  the  ftatue,  which  is  of  gold,  reprer 
ftniing  a  pcrfon  without  a  beard,  who  holds  in  lut  ■ 
right  hand  a  whip,  like  a  charioteer,  and  in  his  left  1 
a  thunderbolt,  together  with  ears  of  corn  ;  all  which  i 
mark  the  united  powers  of  Jupiter  and  Apollo  j  an4 
the  temple  excels  in  divination.'' 


tt,t  An  ACCOUNT  of  the 

B'Jt  inflnd'i  (/f  Jvikintf  for  buildings  of  the  Ox:>- 
th'iiu  Ujux  ortirr  tii  llic  Jcwifli  and  Fhcenician  kJi^n; 
n  may  \f>:  littto'/Jn  tiiorc  [>n/per  a;  cmjuiic  for  irca 

fiuriii)}  tlic  tiiri';  wIjCR  the  rirccki  poficficd  dm 
t'rtif.try.  Il-Jt  ffym  Alrxandcr'n  cutitjue^  of  it  ta  1:3: 
of  l'oi('I'«'y(  WT  (i(j  nrit  find  ihem  meiuioneCi  rr 

*li;'.li  :r*|oti  we  foiffluiJr,  iliai  tliey  mufl  be  waia 
ri  «  lirT  iljt>;:  :iii'l,  imlcrd,  Jolin  of  AmiocH  f^- 
n»ii'<-rt  MaUln,  fjy*.,  iliat  y^'.liut  Antonrnus  Pim  b*^ 
a  ifrii],!':  I't  J>t|<i";r  ui  I  lc\i'tpfA'i%  near  Ubacus,  s 
J'Ii<;;ri.'  iU,  will'  l»  wj%  wi{-  of  ihr  wortders  of  i» 
v/'.rl).  'ilii'.  r.  ill':  only  liifl'iriaii  who  tneninni  V£ 
1/uil't.i;^  '.i  *  ini.jilr  in  t^i^  ( iiy. 

It  I-,  '.■:'3)ii  iliii'  iIh-  Oruiliire  of  the  templri  x 
|'i.l;!.,r  1 :-:  ■:  Hall^f  ililfi  n  in  fi^tnc  i»anicuiar»  frKD 
tli;it '''  :  li  olticr%  wi:  (i;tvr  lii:'jri,  uikI  wc  insagincd  ae 
(OuM  i(..'c'//(r  niii.anyof'rlnfiiviation^lrom  trw  rrjc 
o1jj't>  of  v/'/;lii.jj,  f'fiiictliitii/ ill  tfi'' climate,  (fKi,  fx 
filii::ii'<;i  <.r  ».ii  n  i-.-iiMy,  v/Iii(  !i  Imd  a  umMcTuik 
iiiliiid.'.'.  iri'.[!.iMiIliiii[/  ii-.  jMrtidiLr  mode  of  fapa- 
niti',;i. 

Il   i.\i\;t,\)'r."/.t\:'n\  hr  iij.j'li'-'l  I'l  llie  (ountryand 

rd;yi'-ri  ',f  .'j/rit,   aii'l  wc  r;( in'-  tlic  w'»r/hip  of  the 

luij,  ni'i'^ii,  siii'l  lliir-., '»!l«'l  III  '  tn\>u\Te  Hisil,  Afla- 
r','l>,  nri'l  tlic  1  ('(II  ii\  f  I-  ;iv'-n  -,  v/«:  lliiill  perhaps  noc 
orJy  I"-  Ji'>*  tliii  cr.ily  luin-iJInioii,  wliii  li  mifkd  the 
itiltii''-''  ii>''''f-i  I'V'-lc'iiiii  I  y,w:rii].itiiraUy  produced  I 
tut  ■«■:  iNity  olil'  rvi:  I'/iri'  ihiiij',  ii\'  ill  (/iinin  and  pro- 
cn  Is  11. liilli;.;',  IV'.in  :i  miirir'tjoti  hi  tv/cni  tliofe  objects 
of  v/'iinilj)  (oiili'lci"!  iili>lii:flly,  ami  tlicir  tliarailen 
a'l  (iivii.i't'--.  '1  t-'i'.  rli"  w.\\'i\\i\<i-n(i'.  with  wliith  the 
fiiti  W.I'.  v.'(illi:pi.'il  ill  S/r;i  jitid  (.li.iKlcn,  the  natne 
of  I'-ail,  v.lii(  h  in  tin-  l-,/ilc(ii  laii|Mia;'.''  fiKiiiric*  I  ,ord, 
ati'J  llic  I.uiiaii  vit'tiiJit.'ai  lirKMl  to  in  .  Iir^nour  ;  fcctn 
to  p'jir.t  'iJt.  ait  ;iwj';ii  icvcKn' i'  f  :!;ii  ruili'-r  to  lu's 
y':\:<-r  il>:in  l.i.  h- hirhiry,  in  a  ('iui:iry  wlicrt  the 
VI  .h-ntc  of  hi'.  Ii'tai  i-.  not  only  in  iiiaiiy  rcfpcftt 
tjuubkfyn^c  to  Oit  iuliubitaiif.,  buL  litilrn^Uvcr  to 
vc-yctation. 


^  RUINS  ot  BALBEC.  y<^ 

vegetation.  On  the  other  hand,  the  deification  of! 
the  interior  gods  of  the  firmament  feems  to  ha»t  { 
taken  its  rife  Irom  different  principles,  is  which  Kavfe  J 
appears  to  have  been  more  predominant  tlian  feat. 

The  cxtenlive  plains  and  unclouded  fky  not  only  ] 
point  this  out;  bin  it  appears  that  the  inhabitant  1 
way  of  life,  which  is  as  uniform  as  their  foil  or  theft  \ 
climate,  has  contributed  to^iireft  their  attention  t6  ] 
thcle  heavenly  bodies.     It  was  always  a  cnftom  with  I 
ihem  to  pafs  the  fummer  nights  on  the  top5  of  thcit  j 
houfes,  which  for  this  pLirpofe  were'madc  fiat,  anil 
divided  from  each  other  by  walls.      This  way  tJfj 
flceping  we  found  extreamly  agreeable,  as  we  by  rhit  I 
means  enjoyed  the  cool  air  abdve  the  reach  of  gnats  ' 
and  vapours,  with  no  other  covering  but  the  canopy 
€>f  heaven,  which  in  different  pleafing  forms  unavoid- 
ably prcfcnts  itfclfi  upon  every  interruption  of  reiV, 
when  the  mind  is  ftrongly  difpofed  to  contemplation 
by  folitudeand  filencc. 

Wc  could  no  where  difcover  more  beauties  in  the 
face  of  the  heavens,  nor  fewer  on  thecarih,  than  'u\ 
our  travels  in  the  night  through  the  dcfarts  of  A  rabia  -, 
where  ic  is  impofliblc  to  avoid  being  ftruck  with  the 
coniraft;  in  which  a  buundlefs  dreary  walle,  wiihoui 
mountxin  or  valley,  tree  or  water,  or  the  kail  v^rieq 
of  colours,  offers  a  tedious  &mencrs  to  the  weari 
traveller,  while  he  is  agreeably  relieved  by  beholdine 
that  diearful  moving  pi^ure  which  meafurcs  hrs 
lime,  dircfts  his  courfc,  arid  lights  his  wjy.  The 
Wdrin  fancy  of  the  Arab  fuon  fcit  the  tranlition  from 
wttd  odmirBtion  to  fuperffitious  refpcct ;  and  the 
alKons  u-c-e  engaged  before  the  judgment  was  con- 

"itcd.      Hence    the  Jews    frequently  cauglit    the 

Wtching  cnihuflafm;  and  an  ancient  pious  natiw 

lie  country,  fccms  to  acknowlege  the  danger  of 

Ic.Tiplatisg  fuch  beauties,  while  he  dilbwns  hia 

5  yicUcd  CO  the  icmptatiua:  Jflbtbtld  tbtfm 


ft9         M  AttoVifti  &d 

vian  bejbintdt  w  the  moti  vfUAg  in  her  hightw^ 
md  ntf  heart  haib  betu  fientfy  tnticed,  or  07  au^ 
haib  kijfed  nty  hMod,  this  ji/trt  m  iiiifiuijr.  Sec.  }6t> 
zxxi.  26. 

Even  Egvpt  had  iomp  objedb  of  dirine  wodhip  lb 
jjccuUailj  the  growth  of  that  coQony,  that  uxf 
coold  never  be  tranfplanted.  As  fupeiAidon  tra- 
velled from  thence  northvaid,  flie  chang^  her  pA, 
and  from  the  pidurelque  tnixcure  of  the  hills,  vales, 
grovca,  and  water  in  Greece,  aroie  the  Orades 
Dryades,  and  Naiades,  with  all  the  varieties  of  ti^t 
fanciful  mythology  i  which  none  butfuch  a  poet  as 
Homer,  in  fuch  a  country  as  Greece,  coiUd  have  coo- 
neded  into  that  foiin  which  has  ever  fince  been 
adopted  by  the  poets. 


m 

i               t  »«■  1 

J 

^1 

DESCRIPTION       ,  ^H 

JUDEA,  OR  THE  HOLY  LAND,       ^^M 

ANP     PAttTICULAKLY     or                                        ^^^^1 

THE   CITY   OF    JERUSALEM:'  ^^M 

CoUcclcd  from  thcWritingsof  Mausdhell,  Shaw,  ^^^H 
and  other  Travellers.                                    V 

rx^  H  E  land  of  Judca  is  bounded  on  the  north  by              V 
X.     Mount  IJbanus,  which  fcparates  k  from  that               1 
part  of  Syria  antiently  called  Phcenicia  ;  on  the  eaft              1 
by  Mount  Hermon,  which  fcparates  it  from  Arabia               1 
Peferta ;  on  the  fouth  by  Arabia  Petnea  ;  and  on  the               1 

.     welt  by  the  Mediterranean.     This  country  received    ^^^^^ 
che  name  of  Paledine  from  the  Philiflines,  who  dwel-  ^^^^M 
led  on  the  fea-coafl  I  it  wascalledjudea  from  Judah}  ^^^^| 
and  is  termed  the  Holy  Land  from  its  being  the  fpoc  '^^^^| 
where  the  antlcnt  prophets  firft  reGded,  where  oufv^^^H 
Saviour  himfelf  received  his  birth,  preached  his  holy  ^^^^| 
doarines,    confirmed    them  by  miracles,    and  laid  ^^^H 
down  his  life  for  mankind.     This  country  is  onYf   ^^^^M 
.  about  1 50  miles  in  length,  and  generally  So  in  breadth.  ^^^^| 
though  m  fomc  places  it  is  wider,  and  in  others  nar-   ^^^^B 
rower :  it  is  fituaied  in  the  fourth  and  fifth  climate,              1 
between  31"  and  33"  30'  north  latitude,    and  the               1 

k    i^^^  ^^^  '^  ^^"'  fourteen  hours  and  a  quarter.                     M 

Ill     DESCRIPTIONof  JUDEA; 

Though  the  heat,  from  the  finiatku  of  the  coun- 
try with  rcfpcfc  lo  the  equator,  might  be  cxpt&ed 
to  be  excelTive-,  yii  Mount  Libanus,  from  its  un- 
common height,  is  covered  all  the  winter  with 
fnow.  Dr.  Shawobferves,  that  in  travellme  by  niglu 
through  the  valhes  of  Mount  Ephraim,  he  aod  tiii 
company  were  atiended  for  above  an  hour  bjr  an  ig- 
nis tatuus  that  .^numed  a  variety  of  cxtraordinaiy  ap- 
pearances. It  was  fometimes  globular,  then  rcfem- 
blrd  the  flame  of  a  candle;  but  inftantly  it  would 
fprcad  itfclf,  and  involve  the  whole  compajiy  in  is 
pale  inoffl-nlive  light  j  then  contraflifig  itlclf,  it  would 
inllamty  difappear;  but  in  icfs  than  a  minute  would 
ap-iin  become  vifible  as  before  ;  or,  moving  from  one 
pfice  to  another,  would  expand  itfelf,  at  particuhr 
intervals,  over  two  or  three  acres  of  the  adjacert 
moLintain<^.  It  is  remarkable  that  In  the  preoedine 
evening  the  .iniiofphcre  h^d  been  uncommonly  thick 
and  hazy,  and  the  dew  iinufually  unftuous. 

Tlic  iirll  rains,  as  tliey  arc  called,  generally  £d 
about  the  beginning  of  November ;  and  the  latter 
rains  fometimes  in  the  middle,  and  fometimes  towaid 
the  end  of  April.  In  the  country  round  Jcrulaleni, 
if  a  moderate  quantity  of  fnow  f»lls  in  the  beginnine 
of  l"ebriiary,  anil  the  brooks  fot>n  after  overflow  ihcir 
banks,  it  is  thoii!^hc  to  promife  a  fruitful  year  ^  and 
the  inhabitants  make  rejoicings  upon  this  occalian, 
like  the  Egyptians  upon  the  cutting  of  the  Nile: 
but  tiiis  country  is  llkloni  refrcHied  with  rain  in  the 
fummcr. 

The  rocks  of  this  county  are  in  many  parts  cover- 
ed v/ith  a  loft  ch;ilky  hiLiliTicc,  in  v.iiich  is  inclofcd 
a  grv'at  v.-3ni.-ty  of  ilul's  and  cur.;l*;.  The  greateft 
pLirt  of  lI.L  nvjunrains  or'  Ciirinei,  .ir.d  t-lio'^:  ot  Jeni- 
ijjcm  and  iicthlcliem,  aic  v.\:o  co<.'LTcd  v/ith  a  white 
chalky  ibatum.  In  the  tbrmer  are  gathered  njany 
Itonts,  wliiLii,  beiiig  in  the  i'onii,  as  it  is  pretended, 
of  olives,  melons,  pcach'-s,  and  other  truit,  arc  im- 
7  pofcd 


pinicuhrly  of  JERUSALEM.         113 

pofcd  upon  pilgrims,  not  only  as  thole  fruits  petrified, 
but  as  antiilntrs  aeaioft  fevcral  dilK-mpers.  U  ' 
the  olives,  wliith  are  the  Upjdcs  judaici  of  the  fl 
have  been  an  apjiroved  medicine  agai.ift  the  ftot 
and  gravel  i  howt-vcr,  Imlc  can  be  laid  in  favour  0 
thfir  peaches  and  melons,  which  are  only  round  J 
ftoncs  of  different  fizcs,  beautified  on  the  inlidc  wit! 
fyarry  kfiobs,  that  are  made  to  pufs  for  li-eds  and  V 
nek.  The  waters  of  Jordan  and  Siloam  ;  the  n 
of  Jericho  1  beads  made  of  the  olivc-ftones  of  G< 
femane  ■,  the  chalk-ftone  of  the  grotto  near  Bethle- 
hem, called  the  Virgin's  Milk  ;  ihc  little  round  cal- 
culi called  her  pealt-  \  and  oiher  curiofities  of  the  like 
nature,  are  prefents  which  thepilgrin)s  ul'ually  rcccive-^J 
in  return  for  their  charity. 

As  to  the  rivers  of  this  country,   the  Jordan  i 
not  only  the  moll  conliderable,  but,  next  to  the  Nifc 
is  by  far  the  largeil  to  be  found  cither  in  the  Lcvs 
or  in  Barbary.     IJr.  Shaw  fays,  that  though  he  Could 
not  compute  it  to  be  more  than  thirty  yards  broad,  it'| 
is  fo  deep,  that  even  at  the  brink  he  found  tt  to  b0  I 
nine  feet.     If  we  take  this,  favs  he,  durmg  the  wholBT 
year,  for  the  mean  depth  of  the  ftrcam,  which  run^  abouP  jl 
two  miles  an  hour,  then  Jordan  will  daily  difchargci  I 
into  the  Dead  Sea  about  fix  millions  ninety  thoufand  1 
tons  of  water.     So  great  a  quantity  of  water  dai(y  iv^.j 
ceived,  without  increaling  the  limits  of  that  lea,  oi\ 
lake,  has  made  fomc  conjcfture,  that  it  is  carried  off" 
by  fubterranean  cavities,  or  abforbed  by  the  burning 
fands  :   but  if  the  Dead  Sea  is,  according  to  the  gene- 
ral computation,  72  miles  lung,  and    18  broad,4J|- 
allowing,  according  to  the  obfervatinn  of  the  ycrt*' 
Mr.  Hallcy,  6914.  tons  of  vapour  for  every  fquanjl 
mile,  there  will  be  daily  drawn  up  in  clouds,  to  reJ  1 
frcfii  the  earth  with  rain  or  dews,  8,960,100  tons  j  J 
which  is  almoll  one-third  more  than  it  receives  from  ] 
ihis  river.     With  refpcft  to  the  bitumen,  for  which  ^ 
this  lake  has  been  always  remarkable,  it  is  faid  to 
rife  at  certain  times  from  the  bottom  \^  large  hcmi- 

Vol,  VL  I  fpliciei. 


I 


114     DESCRIPTION  of  JUDEA, 

fpheres,  which,  on  ihcir  couching  ihc  furfacc  of  the 
water*  and  being  afted  upon  by  the  external  air,  burft 
with  a  great  noile  and  fmoke,  and  difpcrfe  rbcmfcKcs 
in  a  thoul'ind  pieces.  This  is  faid,  however,  only  ra 
happen  near  the  Iboresi  for  in  greater  depdis  the 
urupuons  are  fuppofed  only  todtfcover  thcmtclvesby 
the  columns  of  I'nioke  which  arife  from  ihc  Uke, 
This  bitumen  is  probably  accompanied  on  its  rifuig 
1^'tth  folphur,  as  boch  are  found  proniifcuouUy  on  itx 
flipre.  The  latter  exaflly  refemblcs  native  fulphur, 
and  the  former  is  britdc,  and  yields  a  fetid  fmell  upoa 
friiHiicin,  or  on  its  being  fei  on  fire :  ii  is  ajfo  as  blade 
as  jpt.  The  reverend  Mr.  Maundrell  found  on  lU 
ftiflt^.?  blBik  fort  of  pebbles,  that  burn  on  being  held 
to  the  flame  uf  a  candle,  yielding  a  inoft  pnenfive 
ifnelh  b>it  though  they  lofc  their  weight  in  burning* 
they  do, not  decreafe  in  bulk,  Thefc  Hones  are  com* 
mon  on  the  neighbouring  hills,  and  arc  capable  of 
being  carved  and  polilhed  like  marble. 

Vulgar  report  would  perluade  us  that  all  the  bin!) 
that  attempt  to  fly  over  this  Ukc  drop  down  dead 
into  it,  and  that  neither  5fh  nor  any  other  aniinitl 
can  live  within  tiiefe  deadly  waters ;  but  this  is  ib  ^ 
from  being  true,  chat  birds  fly  over  the  lake  without 
any  vifiblc  injury,  -tnd  on  the  Iliore  the  fhells  of  ^ 
are  ofccn  caft  up  by  the  waves.  The  water  is  vcrj[ 
litiipid,  and  not  only  fait,  but  very  bitter  and  naufe- 
ous ;  and  the  lalt  mentioned  reverend  gentleman,  be-_ 
ing  defirous  of  trying  its  ftrtngth,  went  inio  it,  am} 
found  that  it  bore  him  up  in  fwimming  with  uncoip' 
mon  force.  As  to  the  apples  of  Sodom,  mentioned 
by  feveral  authors,  thefe  are  alfo  a  fidion  j  for  no- 
thing of  thiit  kind  is  either  feen  or  mentioned  near 
this  lake  ;  nor  is  there  any  tree  from  which  fuch  kind 
of  fruit  might  be  expected. 

Modern  unbelievers  have  dwelt  much  on  the  rocks 
ofPalelflnc,  the  barrennefs  of  the  country,  and  (hs 
difagrceablcnels  of  the  climate,  in  order  to  invalidate 
the  accounts  given  in  Scripture  ofjhc  fertility  of  that 

land 


■  particularly  of  J  E  R  U  S  A  L  K  M.  115 

■iind  of  promife^  which  is  reprefcnted  iherc  as  Rowing 
with  milk  and  honey:  buc  the  reverend  Dr.  Siuw, 
■ivlio  feems  to  have  examined  the  counrrv  with  an  un- 


tommon  degree  of  ai 


icy,  fay.  That  was  the  Ho!? 
■  '  !d 


doe 

m 

Tfion 


Land  as  well  cultivated  as  in  former  times. 
be  more  ferCfie  than  the  very  belt  pjrts  of  Syria  and 
Phcenicia  i  becaufc  the  foil  is  generally  much  richer'. 
And,  every  thing  confidcred,  yields  larger  crops. 
Thus  ihe  cotton  gathered  in  the  plains  of  Zabulnn, 
EftJraelon,  and  Raniah,  is  more  cllircmed  than  that 
produced  near  Tiipoly  and  Sidon  ;  and  it  is  impof- 
fible  for  puH'e,  whcar,  or  any  other  grain,  to  exceed 
what  is  c6mmonly  fuld  at  Jerufaiem.  Th^Ttfore,  the 
barrcnnefs,  fays  he,  of  which  fon-.e  authors  complain, 
does  not  proceed  from  the  natural  unfruttfulnels  of 

coumrv,  but  from  tlie  want  of  inhabitants,  and 

opprelilon  they  hbour  under. 
Indeed  the  inhabitants  can  have  but  little  ir.dina- 
ion  to  cultivate  the  earth.  *  in  Pjleftine.  fays  Mr. 
Wood,  we  havt  ohen  feeti  the  inh:bitanti:  fowing, 
accompanied  by  an  arniej  friend,  to  prevfnt  his  be- 
ing robbed  of  the  feed  ;'  and,  after  all,  whoever  fows 
is  untertain  whether  he  rtiall  ever  reap  ilie  harv-elV. 
As  the  pans  abr.n:  jerufalcm  in  pani'..uhr  have  been 
defcribcd  as  rocky  and  mountainous,  tlxv  have  been 
therefore  fuppofed  to  be  barren  ;  but  this  is  To  far 
from  being  the  (.are  at  prcfcnt,  that,  nonviihrtanding 
the  want  there  has  been  for  many  an^i  of  a  proper 
culture,  the  plains  and  rallies,  though  as  ftrtile  as 
ever,  arc  aJmoil:  tntircly  ncgleifted,  while  every  little 
hill  is  crowded  with  inhabitants;  It  cannot  here  be 
nrged,  that  the  inhnbiiants  enicy  more  (alcty  than 
in  the  phiins  -,  for  they  have  no  wills  of  an.-  fortifica- 
tions to  IVcure  either  their  vilUgri  or  cnca  r.prr.fnts ; 
and  as  thct-i.-  are  few  places  of  Jiificult  acGef,  both 
lie  equally  expoled  to,  the  ravages  of  an  enemy  :  but 
"'ley  find  fuftiricnc  convcnicncics  for  ihemi'el/cs,  and 
"■  :h  grcaierfor  their  cattle,  which  feed  opo;i  a  richer 
4  2  her- 


nO      DhSCRU'TIOKof  JUDEA, 

}.'ri.;.vr  ;  knii  ixAn  arc  refrcjhed  by  fprings  of  cx:d- 

)■■■.:  V^vtrr. 

C'.rr.,  wiritr,  ar.J  oil,  ^ith  milk  and  honey,  vrr* 
i/-':.  '-•'■  i  -'.'1  a^d  ti.^  ].f;ri'ipal  daintia  of  tLe  arir 
a;  ":■,.      'I  :;':  •:  »*::':  '':•'.'■■  t'.r  {^r'XJUCc  of  tbi&  OWi.-.l.-T, 

a!  f.-y  :•  jii.-:  '■>':  U:\.  i'l  ii.c  ^.^rc-t'rft  plenty,  oqIt  br 
i.:'i:  ;^  !  r'j,,'-r  '»■•-.  'i  j.c  »i!'J-hancy,  orcc  pan  rx 
t:.  :-.-/i  o;  S?  J'/'.:;  B..[,i!ft,  fktwi  :hcre  was  p;tr,:T 
•^r'  ,r.  .  1  ^-  ;■'■;  :^ .  '-I  J.;;'  a  i  ar.d  by  laking  ihc  >iii 
f-,-.  ■..  t  .  -,  is  .4  '::.i.<i(.f/  tilt:  bc«  iriU*  hhnn,  i'* 
(..-■j: -,,:;  r  .,;:'•;  v:.i*i>  ll:t  KsiTd,  At  in  If^mc  plaOS 
I,"  ;. .-„.:.  ..,:.,  :,':/>■  -.A  v,:rh  r.fma/y,  thyme,  fige, 
;,.l,  .  -■■  ■.'  J....-.",  a.  art  <iiicfly  fought  b/ ine 
\y-  i  :-^',  ...■  1.  ■:  iv  «.Cm  l''xk«-d  with  fhrubs  and 
fc  ".,;.";  (fj',r'  tr-.!-,  ',f  bfj-li  wl.tch  the  cattle  are 
I, .■,:•:  :',!.'■  »;,?,•,  t-.;  r,.;-  |,Iar.t-  cuininon  to  meadovt 
ii:.<:  rj.l'i!/  ;•  '-u::-..  'i  iic  m.ji:  ot  iht  tattle  ihu&fcd 
j.  i.o-  •  r.iy  jiir  .'!'  i.'",  Ij.rt  i.'r.r  (!e(h  is  more  fuccl  and 
I,-,..:. ;!.:;;.>  i  i.  ';  :i.'<'ifi'aiii'JU',  didritt*  have  been 
■J.'.ij  v.-ii*!.]'.-  ' :;  'I  :.' r  ;  ((.'juris-,  f(i».-y  freiji  CO  have 
!.c;.M  J'oiM.'riy  v.c::  i.i.i;,i.';'i  v/i'Ji  (jIivc- trees,  one  acre 
ot  wi,ii)i,  ij  |,r'j|,":iy  !!r,[>r -veil,  i%  more  valuable 
ili.-iii  twif,-:  \}.,r.  i-zfiit  (-f  afii.lc  (.jroiiiid :  and  feveral 
[.i-riv  >y  I'-irliii':,  ri'j  Irl^  tl.aii  iduin-a,  which  lies 
critijr  )■  li'.  ■'-  i',  ;■:'- rij-nJcdicd  by  tijc  anticnts  as 

;■.!;',■-. r.'':t;;i,  ill  lii-.t- -l.(  (:■„ 

Iii  t!:<r  I  (-;r;jn;j;.:  f-f  Miirch,  tJic  plains  between 
J:.r^  ;ii..i  k;iM.;>!i,  .  iv\  orhcr  [jiaf.r,  in  il,c  road  to  Jc- 
rufiilfiii,  ;.rc  j,ar;'.;il.irly  ciiftinf.M>ifl,»'(l  by.btds  of  tu- 

I I  s,  Jri:f  lUr.f-.,  ;iti(i  otiitr  plane,  of  tlic  fame  clafs. 
'J  I.'  baif;uii-ti<''-,  icAVCVtr,  \s  no  loiigfrr  found  in  this 
cu,j.7i:\)-t  iiiiil  lii-;  diiiiaim,  or  niaiulrakcs,  mentioned 

III  ll;  ■  .".'■  ri].H;r'.'.,  iir-;  cjiiiilly  v/aii'iii^, 

Iv.fiy  p:'.ii  tjf  ih-  t(.iiiiiry  af,(jun'...s  with  plenty  of 
g-uni-,  :f.  itiiCflojjc',,  l:;ir<-.,  anJ  rabbet-,  i  and  of  the 
wiii'jcil  V.\^A,  w<,(«i(o:!:,  p^iirifi^tf,,  icjI,  fnipes^ 
iiiKi  itvi;  111  oil.cr-,  wl.idiart  all  taught  by  hawking 
ai:il  ilic  (.li.icc,     Tiic  hankk  are  uiually  of  the  nature 

and 


^  particularly  of  JERUSALEM.       117 

and  fize  of  our  gofs-hawlcs,  nnd  fu  (trong  as  to  bring 
down  3  buftard,  and  (lop  an  antelope  m  fuii  career. 

Acra,  anticnily  called  Accho,  fiwatcd  in  32*"  40' 
nonh  Uritudc,  is  one  of  che  places  from  which  the 
IlVaelices  could  notcxpcl  tlieantient  Canajnr.es  ;  but 
in  after  times,  being  enlarged  by  Ptolemy  I.  lie,  from 
his  own  name,  called  it  Ptolcmais  :  but  it  has  fince 
refumcd  fome  refcmblanceof  its  antient  name.  '!  his 
city  was  the  fcene  of  m^ny  obftinate  difputes  between 
the  Croifaders  and  the  Saracens.  Its  Itcuation  is  as 
advantageous  as  poffible;  on  the  north  and  caft  it  is 
encompafled  by  a  fpacious  fertile  plain,  on  the  well  it 
is  walhcd  by  the  Mediterranean,  and  on  the  fout't  by 
a  large  bay,  which  extends  from  the  city  as  far  as 
Mount  Carme! :  it,  however,  contains  little  more 
than  a  few  cottages,  and  proJigious  heaps  of  ruins, 
that  only  ferve  to  fhcw  its  tormer  ftrcngth. 

Among  thcfe  ruins  arc  (hewn  fome  remainsof  a  large 
church,  that  once  belonged  to  a  convent,  of  which 
the  Chrillians  there  teU  the  following  remarkable  llury ; 
The  Turks,  after  a  long  fiege,  took  the  ciiy  by  Itorm 
in  the  year  r29t,  when  the  abbefs  of  the  convent, 
dreading  left  (he  and  her  nuns  (hould  be  treated  as  is 
ufual  in  fuch  cafes,  alTcmbled  them,  and  exhonir^ 
ihem  to  mangle  their  faces,  as  die  only  means  of  pre-  " 
fcrving  their  Virginity,  inftantly,  with  an  heroic  cou-'' 
rage,  fet  theni  the  example,  which  the  nuni  boldly  ' 
followed,  by  cutting  off  iheir  nofes,  and  disfiguring 
their  faces  in  fuch  a  tnarmcr,  as  rendered  them  more 
adapted  to  excite  horror  than  defirc.  Hcncr  the  lol- 
diers,  foon  after  breaking  into  the  convent,  were  (b 
difappoinied  at  leeino,  inftead  of  a  number  ot  bloom- 
ing beauties,  fuch  difmal  objeifts,  that  they  cruelly  put 
ihcm  to  the  fword. 

The  city  appears  to  have  been  formerly  encompaf- 
fed  by  a  double  wall,  defended  with  towers  j  and  with- 
out the  walls  are  ditches,  ramparts,  and  a  kind  of 
baAioni  faced  with  Hone. 

I  3  To 


ii8      DESCRIPTION  of  JUDEA, 

To  the  foiuh  of  Acra  is  Scballa,  the  antlenc  Sama- 
r::,  tlie  capical  of  the  ten  tribes  after  their  revolt 
J'roni  t!:c  houfc  of  DaviJ  i  ami  it  being  rt-ndered  by 
licrod  a  very  magnificent  city,  he  gave  it  the  riame 
i.i'  Scbiift:'.,  Ill  horio'jr  of  Augullus  Cxfar.  It  is  feat- 
cij  on  a  l(-ng  inounr,  of  an  uval  figure,  which  riles 
in  n  frjitfjl  valk-y,  fiir.-jundtd  by  a  range  of  hills-, 
anJ  is  now  cniirely  converted  into  gardens,  having 
no  other  remains  of  its  being  once  a  tamous  city,  but 
a  large  fquire,  cr-corii^ufieJ  with  columns,  and  the 
ruins  of  a  gieai  chvir;  fi,  f.iid  to  be  creilcd  over  the 
p'ace  where  John  the  Bapiirt  was  imprifoned  and  be- 
Jieaded.  In  the  body  of  the  church  is  a  ftair-cafc 
i:ito  the  duni^eon,  wlicre  they  fay  his  blood  was  (hed. 
'J  hc.-e  are  here  a  few  ponr  families  of  the  Turks,  whl 
h;ive  a  great  yentratiun  for  this  prifon. 

A  little  farther  to  the  Couth  is  Naplcfj,  the  antient 
Sycheni,  which  lUnds  in  a  narrow  valley  between 
Mount  Ebal  on  th.;  north,  and  Gt-rizim  on  the  Ibuth. 
'Jhc  Samaritan?,  whole  thief  rofidence  is  at  Sychcm, 
have  a  Imail  temple  upon  Mount  Gerizim,  to  which 
they  ftiU  repair  at  certain  fcafons,  for  religious  wor- 
fiiip  ;  nnd  it  is  laid  dili'mlilc  once  a  year  to  offer  facri- 
fices  there.  U|>on  one  of  the;e  n.ountains  God  com- 
niandfd  the  cii":!ilren  of  Iihitl  to  fct  up  great  (tones, 
pi.'.ftered  over,  infcribcd  with  the  boJy  of  the  law, 
i;n;l  t;)  erect  an  akar  and  ofrtr  facrlfices,  feafling  and 
rejoicing  belV,te  tl;e  Lord,  Deui.  xxvii.  4.  But  whe- 
itier  li.tni  or  Gcaziiii  wa^  the  place  appointed  forthi^ 
folemniiy,  is  n!!t  eafily  determined.  At  a  fmall  dif- 
tance  from  N;:i):Glii  is  Jacob's  well,  famous  for  ouc 
Saviour's  coiittrence  wiiii  the  woman  of  Samaria. 
Over  tills  well  thrrc  once  Itood  a  large  church,  built 
by  .St.  Helena,  of  which  none  but  the  foundation 
now  rLma:r,i.  Thii  well  ii  at  prefent  covered  with 
an  old  itone  vaisir,  into  whicii  pilgrims  are  let  down 
ihrouttia  ftreigiir  hole;  when  reivioving  a  broad  flat 
.'lo.li,,  they  dil'.uver  the  moutiiyf  the  wcli^  which  is 

dug 


pahicuhrly  of  J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M.        1^9- 

dug  in  the  firm  rock  :  h  is  about  three  yards  in  dia- 
meter, and  thirty-five  in  depth,  about  five  of  which 
are  filled  with  water.  This,  fays  Mr.  Maundrell, 
firoves  the  I'aliliood  of  the  ftory  told  by  travellers, 
that  it  is  dry  all  the  year  round,  except  on  the  anni- 
vcrfary  of  the  day  when  Chrift  fat  upon  its  fide,  at 
which  time  ttey  pretend  that  it  bubble*  up  with  plenty 
ot  water. 

Jcrufalcni  is  cncompafied  with  hills,  (b  that  the  city 
fecins  as  if  Guutcii  in  an  amphitheatre  i  but  noplace 
affords  a  diftant  view  ot'  it :  that  iVom  the  Mount  of 
■Olives,  which  is  the  bcft,  and  perhaps  ihc  fartheft, 
»  fo  near,  tiiai  when  our  Saviour  was  tnerc.  Dr.  Shaw 
obfcrves,  he  might  be  faid  alnioft  in  a  literal  fcnfe,  to 
weep  ever   it.  '    There  are,  however,    few  remain? 
cither  of  that  city  as  it  appeared  in  our  Saviour'? 
time,  or  as  it  was  afterward  built  by  Adrian  ;  its  very 
ituation  being  changed.   For  Mount  Sion,  the  highctt  j 
part  of  the  anlient  Jcrufalem,  is  now  almofl  entireWi 
excluded  1  while  the  (places  adjoining  to  Mount  Cat' 
vary,  where  C  hriil  fuffercd  without  the  gate,  arc  ^ 
prclcnt  alinoft  in  ihe  cemcr. 

This  city,  which  is  about  three  n-^ilcs  in  circumfe- 
jcnce,  is  fituatcd  in  31"  50'  north  latirude,  and  in 
"  36"  caft  longitude  fro.n  Lond.in,  on  a  rocky  nioun^l 
tain,  on  all  lides  of  which  arc  fteep  afcenis,  ex^^eptl 
toward  the  north  ;     and  is  furmundeJ  by  a  dcci 
valley,  which  is  again  encompuficd  with  hills.     The 
walls  are  not  rtrong,  nor  have  ajiy  baftlons ;  but  towerj 
arc  ercScd  upon  tnem«  after  the  old  method  of  for- 
tification, and  on  one  fide  "nly  it  is  ilefended  by  ai^'i 
inconfidcrable  ditch.     'Ihr  city  has  fix  gates;    th»  j 
private  buildings  are  mean,  the  ftrceis  are  narrow^  1 
and  but  thinly  inhabifcd.     The  rcfort  of  pilgrim*  j 
thither,  and  accommodating  them  witli  neccirarics,  ' 
Icems  the  principal  bufmcfs  of  the  inhab!!an[s.     A 
Turkifii  balha  refidcs  there  in  order  to  prcfetvc  good 
order,  and  coll-jift  the  grand  fignior'5  tribute  trotn  the 
pilgrims,  and  the  pricfts  who  refidc  there  ;  and  alio  ro 
I  4  I'^tSt 


no     DESCRIPTION  of  JUDEA, 

proiecV  them  from  the  Arabs,  when  they  vifit  Ac 
iiuly  pU'.et  in  the  adjacent  country. 

No  European  Chriflian  is  allowt-cl  to  enter  the  citr 
till  the  governor  i^  ii:r()rini.d  of  his  arrival,  ard  he  has 
paid  the  duties  required ;  nor  are  any  permitted 
to  cnt'  r  on  horfchack,  or  with  arms,  except  they 
come  with  fomc  public  miniller  or  confut.  The  Eu- 
ropeans, whether  pnpifts  or  protcllants,  always  go  lo 
the  Latin  or  I'opilh  convent,  where  tiicy  arc  enter- 
tained by  the  guardian  and  I'riars  tor  their  mnncy; 
though  lOine  diftindt;on  is  trade  between  thofc  who 
travel  thither  out  of  devotion,  and  thole  who  only 
come  out  of  ciirinfity.  The  pilgrin-.s  are  indeed  treat- 
ed with  peculiar  marks  ot  reljeft.  The  druggcr- 
man,  orinicrpreter,  with  fomc  others  deputed  by  the 
c<.nvent,  ufually  meet  the  pilgtims  v.ithout  ihe  gate 
oi  the  city,  v/licrc  they  (.ay  the  di.tics,  and  bring 
them  to  the  cloifler,  whvre  they  are  handlomely  enier- 
lainet!,  :ind  an  ppariincnt  is  ::irignc'!  ihcm.  Some  tiire 
after  tlicy  are  conduced  t.)  the  cha;".el,  to  which  ihe 
father  t'Ui-.alian  coirfs  v;ith  rII  his  nicnl;**,  and  hav- 
ing made  il:e  piiuri[ii',  Ht  on  a  courh  of  crJmfon  vel- 
vet, \vr.!hfL  their  ic-.t  m  vcfR]"-  of  W.u<rr  mixed  with 
rofts,  f.r.d  kii^'s  them  i  ;.:id  iifer  ihc  guardian  has 
dune,  the  fan.c  ccnn.o.y  i:.  peri"crn:cd  by  all  the 
n  cnks  who  in  the  n-tan  v.iile  llr.g  hymns  and  an- 
them;:. At  tl.f  coiicii.riun  of  this  tereiiicny,  each  of 
tlic  pilf;riir.ii  rciei\c:;  a  v.::x  taper,  and  they  all  make 
a  pro;.cnion  about  the  cloiltcr,  Hnginj;  Te  Deiim  for 
bringing  them  in  fifety  to  the  holy  city  :  and  this  they 
perform  at  three  altars,  thr.c  is,  ihc  hij^h  aiiar,  dedi- 
cated to  the  Holy  Ghort  ;  at  the  aliar  of  our  Lord's 
l.ilt  fnpperi  and  at  the  altar  of  Chnii's  appearing  to 
St.  Thomas  after  his  rclurrcdion. 

One  of  i'  e  principal  places  vifiied  by  the  pilgrims, 
is  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepuichrc  upon  Mount 
Calvary,  whiih  is  .ibout  i.  o  paces  lon^r,  and  60  wide. 
In  order  to  lay  the  loundation  of  this  church,  the 
founders  were  obliged  to  reduce  the  top  of  ilie  mount 


RparacuUrly  of  JERUSALEM.       lar 
plain  area,  by  cutdng  down  feveral  pans  of  the 
rock.,  and  raifing  others  ;  but  ttiey  lay  that  care  was  | 
taken  that  no  parts  of  the  hill  more  immtxliately  coo-  i 
\    cerned  in  our  Saviour's  paffion  fliould  be  altered  :  and  ! 
therefore  that  part  c^  the  mount,  where  Chrift  wn 
faftened  to  the  crols,  is  left  entire,  and  at  prefent  ' 
ftands  fo  high  above  the  common  floor  of  the  church, 
that  there  are  twenty-one  Iteps  to  go  up  to  the  top  j 
and  the  holy  fepulchre,  in  which  our  Lord's  body  was 
laid,  which  was  originally  a  cave  hewed  in  the  rock, 
is  ROW  a  grotto  above  ground,  the  rock  bcii^  cut 
awjy  f.oni  it- 
\         This  church,  with  many  others  throughout  Pakf- 
I     tine,  is  faid  to  have  been  founded  by  ihc  empreb  , 
Helena,  the  mother  of  Conllantine  the  Great.     At  J 
the  weft  end  ot  it  is  a  fqL>arc  tower  or  ficepic,  which  I 
appears  Ibmewhat  ruinous  ;  but  the  edi6cc  in  general  I 
i>  kept  in  g<K>d  repair,  and  has  a  fumptuous  appear-  ' 
ance.     The  budy  of  the  church  is  round,  and  is  co- 
vered with  a  domeof  aprodigiOUi  ftze,  with  an  open- 
ing at  the  top,  through  which  ii  receive-  fufficient 
light.     Exaftly  underneath  this  aperture  is  the  holy 
fcpiilchre,  which  rifes  confiderably  above  the  pave- 
ment ^  and  the  rock  on  the  outlide  is  hewn  into  the 
form  of  a  chapel,  adorned  on  the  ouiftde  with  ten 
beautiful  columns  of  white  marble,  adjoining  to  the  j 
wall,  and  fupporting  a  cornice.     People  are  obliged  1 
to  Uoop  very  low  in  entering  the  door,  which  doe^j 
not  exceed  a  yard  in  height ;  but  within  it  is  abotttf  -< 
eight  f.  et  fquare,  and  as  much  high,  all  cut  out  of  | 
the  folid  ruck,  and  lined  with  white  marble.     The 
tomb  in  which  they  fay  our  Lord  was  laid  is  railed 
in  ihc  form  of  an  altar,  almoft  three  feet  frofn  the 
floor,    extending   the  whole   length,   and   half  the  j 
breadth  of  this  tittle  chapel;    lb  that  there  is  not  J 
room  for  more  than  three  perfons  to  kneel,  witfaouc  ' 
great  inconvenience.      The  multitude  of  lamps  here 
K-^pt  continually  burning,  render  the  place  extrcamly 


|22      DESCRIPTION  of  JUDEA, 

hot,  the  fmoke  of  which  efcapcs  through  vent-holes 
cut  tlirovigh  the  roof. 

Thyiigli  ihr  thurcli  of  the  Sepulchre  is  Icfs  tluo 
one  hundrei  pacts  in  lejigrh,  and  not  more  than  fixty 
£n  brcadt'i,  n  is  rujjxjffd  to  contain  twelve  or  thir- 
teen pliitcs  c«i)li;crati-d  by  fomegclbn  relating  to  our 
Saviour's  dctli  anJ  rcfuncclion.  As  the  place  where 
the  foldtci  s  ilcriticd  him ;  w  Ucrc  they  divided  his  gar- 
ment ;  where  lie  was  confined  while  they  dug  the 
hole  in  whicli  tlicy  crecitd  the  crofs;  where  he  wis 
■lailed  to  it  i  v;r.cre  tit;:  cro!s  was  erefted  ;  where  the 
foidicrs  fto(j'J  wiu)  pierced  his  fide ;  where  his  body 
was  anolnccil  in  order  tor  burial ;  where  it  was  depo- 
fici'd  in  the  fcinilLtire  ;  where  the  angel  appearrato 
the  won-.eti  af.cr  his  ri-tiirrcctiDn  ;  where  Chrift  him- 
felf  appe.;rLii  to  j\Iary  Magdalen:  all  which,  and 
many  others,  src  fi.[>portd  to  be  contained  within  the 
narrow  limir  >  of  t'lis  church,  and  are  all  adorned  with 
fo  many  :'.It;irs. 

Antitntly  tvtrj'Chriflian  nation  had  a  fmall  fociety 
of  monks,  who  refided  in  the  galleries  about  the 
church,  a»d  t!je  litdc  buiklsngs  annexed  to  it;  but 
the  grtatelt  part  of  theni  have  forfaken  thefe  apart- 
fn^nts  on  account  of  iht'  hc-avy  rents  impofed  upon 
tlicm  by  tlu-  Turks,  and  none  remain  but  ihcLatinsj 
Greeks,  Armenians,  and  Coptics.  The  fcveral  lefts 
have  coniendtd  to  have  ih-j  lioly  fepulchrc  as  their 
own  property,  and  in  p.irt!cu!ar,  the  Greeks  ant} 
I^atins  have  Co  warmly  difputed  the  privilege  of  fay- 
ing mats  the;r,  ih.it  tlicy  have  fumetimes  cotne  to 
blows,  and  wounded  eacii  o[li;;r  at  the  very  door  of  the 
i-'pulchre:  however,  by  tiie  intcrpofitionof  thcFrcncb 
king,  it  was  pi:t  into  tiic  iuiids  of  the  Latins,  who 
have  the  iok  privilcg't  of  faying  mafs  in  it,  though 
ilie  Chrifiians  of  all  nations  may  perform  their  pri- 
v.ite  devotions  there.  Ten  or  twelve  Latins,  with  a 
prciidcnt  over  then;,  always  refide  in  the  church,  and 
ait:  daily  (-;pp]oyed  in  trimming  the  lamps  ;  and  every 

day 


particularly  of  JERUSALEM.        laj 

day  they  alfo  make  a  folcmn  proceflion,  in  which', 
they  carry  tap?rs  and  catcifixes  to  the  feveral  fanflii-.*, 
aries,  fingingat  eacli  a  Uttlc  hymn,  relating  to  thc"^ 
fubjeft  of  the  place.  But  in  the  holy  week  before^] 
Eailer,  when  the  pilgrims  ufualiy  flock  to  Jeriifalcm,  '7\ 
this  is  perforaied  wilh  greater  Igiemnity  than  at  other- 
times. 

On  the  evening  of  Good-Friday,  as  foon  as  ic  be- 
gins to  grow  dirk,  all  the  friars  and  pilgrims  aHemble 
in  the  chapel  of  the  Appaiiiion,  a  fmall  oratory  oil'  ^1 
the  north  Qde  of  the  holy  grave,  in  order  to  go  in  }■ 
procelTioii  round  the  church  :  but  before  this  beginsvi-ir 
one  of  the  friars  preaches  a  fermon  in  Italian,  on  ■  1 
the  darknefs  at  the  crucifixion,  and  he  has  no  foonerf  J 
begun,  tlian  ail  the  candles  are  put  our,  to  illunrato^ 
the  lubject :  and  thus  they  continue  without  lighti", 
till  the  preacher  having  coiiciuded  his  difcourfc,  every  < 
perfon  prefcnt  has  a  large  lighted  upcr  put  into  his 
hands,  and  the  crucifixes  and  other  utcnfils  are  put 
in  order  for  the  proceflion.     Among  the  reit  is  a  large 
crucifix,  which  bears  the  image  of    our  Lord,    as 
big  as  the  life,  failened  on  with  great  naiU.     This 
image,    which  is  well  painted*    and  crowned   with 
thorns,  is  carried  at  the  head  of  the  prcccffion,  firft 
ID  (he  pillar  of  Flagellation,  a  large  piece  of  which 
ihcy  pretend  to  liave  in  a  little  cell  ju!t  by  the  i:h;ipil 
of  the  Apparition.     They  there  fing  an  hymn,  anj- 
preach  in  SpaniOi    on  the  fcourging  of  our  Lord.'l 
from  hence  they  proceed  to  the  prilun,  where,  thcyt/ 
fay,  Chiift  was  ferurcd,  while  the  foldicrv  prcparcd^( 
for  his  crucifixion :  htre  alio  tliey  fing  an  hymn,  and'V- 
a  third  friar  preaches  in  Frtnch.     Tlicy  next  procei-df J 
fo  the  altar  of  the    divifion    of  (  hnft's  garments, 
where,  they  only  fing  an  hymn.     Ir.itn  thence  tln.-y 
go  to  (he  chapel  ot  Derifion,  where  they  ling  an  hymn^ 
■And  have  another  fermon  in  French.    From  thiaplat 
they  go  to  Calvary,  leaving  their  (hccs  at  the  fo( 
of  the  flairs.     Here  arc  two  altars,  one  where  Chrift_ 
likd  to  the  crols,  ai  wliich  they  lay  down  tlicj 
srcacT 


I 


144      DESCRIPTION  of  jUt)£A, 

great  crucifijc,  and  aft  the  part  of  the  Jews  in  najli 
our  Saviour  to  it  i  ant!  atter  the  hymn,  one  of 
friars  preaches  another  fctmon  on  the  crucifixion, 
the  other  ahar  is  a  hole  in  the  rock,  in  which  thef ' 
pretend  the  foot  of  the  crofs  ftood,  and  here  they  frt 
up  their  crofs  with  the  bloody  image  upon  it;  wd 
leaving  it,  fing  an  hymn,  after  which  the  fjther-gutr- 
dian,  fcating  himfelf  before  it  in  a  chair,  pnracnctt 
polTion  fcrmon,  in  Italian.  In  this  manner  Mr.  Miu 
drcU  faw  it  performed. 

About  four  feet  from  the  hole,  in  which  they  I 
ihe  foot  of  the  crols,  is  a  cleft  in  the  rocic,  fasJ 
be  msdc  by  the  earthquake,  which  rent  the  rocks 
the  death  of  Chriii.  It  his  the  appearance  of  a  n 
tural  breach,  about  a  fpan  wide  at  its  upper  putt 
and  the  fidts  of  it  anfwer  each  other,  running  in  fiict 
intricate  windings,  as  fcem  abtivc  the  power  of  aal« 
imitate.  Tht-  chafm  is  about  two  fpjns  deep,  afid 
which  it  clofesj  but  again  o-ens  below,  as  may  bi 
fccn  in  another  chapel  by  the  fide  of  Mount  CalvatJ 
where  it  runs  down  to  an  unknown  depth. 

After  this  fernion,  two  friars,  reprclenting  Jofcpl 
of  Arimathca  and  Nicodemus,  go  with  a  grave  an 
folemn  air  to  the  crofs,  draw  out  the  nails,  and  lak 
down  (he  pretended  body,  which  is  fo  contrived  thi 
the  joints  are  ficxibie  as  if  it  was  really  ficili  and  bonci 
and  the  tlranger  is  furprifcd  to  fee  them  bend  '  "' 
the  arms,  which  were  before  extended,  and  lay 
upon  the  body,  which  is  received  in  a  large  winditff 
(bccE,  and  carried  down  fiom  Mount  Calvary,  whS 
all  the  company  attend  it  to  the  ftone  of  unflion 
which,  they  fay,  is  the  place  where  Chrift  w 
anointed  ind  prepared  for  burial.  Here  they  ci 
over  the  fictitious  corpfe  fwect  powders  and  fpices 
and  in  the  mean  while  fmg  an  hymn,  after  which  " 
friar  preaches  a  funeral  fermon  in  Arabic.  Thcpn 
tended  body  is  then  carried  away,  and  laid  in  thi 
tcpiUchre,  where  it  is  Ihui  up  till  Eaft?r  Monday. 


particularly  of  JERUSALEM.       125 

There  is  another  ceremony  obfcrved  in  this  church, 
which  is  too  fingolar  to  be  omitted.     This  is  a  pious 
fraud  performed  by  the  Greek  priefts,  who  pretend 
that  upon  every  Earter-evea  miraculous  flame  dc- 
fcend?  into  the  holy  fepulchre,  and  kindics  all  the  ' 
lamps  and  candles  there.     The  Eallcr  of  the  Greeks  ' 
happening  2  week  after  that  of  the  Latins,    when 
Mr.  Maundre)!  was  at  Jerufalem,  he  went  on  the  J 
evening  before  their  Ealler  Sunday  to  this  church, 
which  he  found  croudcd  wlih  a  diftrafted  mob,  mak- 
ing B  hideous  clamour ;  and  with  difficulty  prcAJng 
through  them,  got  into  the  gallery  next  the  Latin  . 
convent,  where  he  had  a  view  gf  all  that  paft.     The  : 
people  ran  with  all  their  might  round  the  holy  fepuU  , 
chre,  crying,  "  Huia,  huia  j"    "  this  is  he,  i!iis  is 
he."     And  having  at  length,  by  their  running  round 
and  their  vociferation,  almoft    turned    their   brains, 
they  afted  the  moft  antic  tricks  imaginable ;  fonic- 
times  dragging  one  another  along  the  floor,  and  car- 
rying others  upon  their  Ihoulders  round  the  fepulchre : 
fomciinies  they  carried  men  with  their  heels  upward, 
with  great  indecency  i  atid  fomciimes  they  tumbled  1 
round  the  fepulchre,  like  tumblers  on  a  ftage  -,  and,  : 
in  Ihort,  nothing  can  be  more  rude  and  cxrravagant-' 
ihan  their  behaviour  upon  this  occalion.     This  fiaii-  j 
tic  tumult  lafted  from  twelve  to  four  in  the  aficrnoGni-J 
and  then  the  Greeks  fet  out  911  a  orjccfnon  rotmii 
the  fcpulchte,  followed  by  the  Armenians,  encom- 
pading  it  three  times,  dreficd  in  tht-ir  embroidci 
habits,  and  carr)'ing  crucifixes,  ftandard^,  and  tlrcam-^ 
en.     Toward  the  end  of  the  procelTion,  a  pigeon  ■ 
came  Buttering  into  the  cupola  over  the  Icpulchre,  at  t 
which  the  people  redoubled  their  fhouts  and  clamour. 
The  Latins  obferved  to  the  En"lifh  geritleman,  that  -, 
this  bird  was  let  fly  by  the  Greeks  to  deceive  the  [>cti'.* 
pie  into  ihc  belief  that  this  w,as  a  vifiblc  dciccnt  ofi- 
thc  Holy  Ghoft.     After  the  proceflion,  the  ftiffragail^  -• 
of  the  Greek  patriarch,  and  the  principal  Armenian' ;' 
bilhop,  approached  the  door  of  the  Icpulchrt-,  cut  - 
<j  th? 


r 


I 


•Jafe      DESCRIPTION  of  JUDEA.         ' 

theftringwith  whicKit  was  fallcncd,  and  breaking dii 
fcal,  entered  in,  fhutting  the  door  after  them,  uiM 
tandles  and  tamps  witlnn  having  been  before  txua^ 
guifhed  in  the  prcfence  of  the  Turks.  As  the  aa»m- 
pliflimcnt  of  the  miracle  drew  nearer,  the  exclaxnuioal 
were  redoubled  ■,  and  the  people  preffctl  iviih  tiicl 
violence  toward  the  door,  that  it  was  not  in  tijt 
power  of  the  janizaries,  who  flood  to  guard  it,  to 
keep  them  off  with  the  fevcrcft  blows.  This  ciouiji 
ing  was  occafioncd  by  their  defirc  ro  light  their  ca- 
dies  at  the  holy  flame,  as  Ibon  as  it  was  broi^ht  out ' 
of  the  fepujchre. 

The  two  biDiops  had  not  been  above  a  minute  a 
the  fepulchre,  birfore  a  glimmering  of  the  holy  &e 
was  ken  through  foiiie  chinlis  of  the  door  j  ai  wfiiJi 
the  mob  behaved  witli  the  moil  excravagani  kind  ti 
phrenzy.  Soon  after  the  two  bifhops  came  out  widj 
blazing  torches  in  their  hands,  which  they  held  Uf 
at  the  door,  while  the  people  thronged  about  it  " 
to  light  their  tapers  at  the  divine  flame,  thoiwh 
Turks  endeavoured  to  keep  them  off  with  their  clubl{ 
and  laid  on  without  mercy.  Thole  who  got  ihc  ' 
fnflantly  applied  it  to  their  faces  and  bofoms,  pw 
tending  that  it  would  not  burn  like  an  earthly  BamQ: 
but  none  of  them  would  try  the  experiment  lotf\ 
enough  to  make  good  this  prctenfion.  Howevi 
fuch  numbers  of  tapers  were  prefcncly  lighted,  th 
the  whole  church  fctmed  in  a  blaze  j  and  this  illun 
nation  concluded  the  ceremony. 

The  zealous  among  tJiele  bigots  fniear  pieces 
linen  with  the  melted  wax  wliich  drops  from  tbefc  l 
pers,  and  lay  iliem  up  for  windingllieccs  for  them- 
fclvesand  their  friends  1  imagining,  fays  the  reverend 
Mr.  Maundrel!,  that  nothing  can  be  a  greater  fccu- 
riiy  ag.i!nfl  their  fuffering  by  the  flames  of  hell. 

ThL-  L;itins  take  great  p.ims  locxpofeihis  ceremo- 
ny, as  a  (liameful  impofinon  and  fcandal  lo  the  Chrif- 
<tjn   religion.     Mr,  Thevcnot  obferves,  a  flint  and 
iieel  would  foon  produce  lire,  were  there  none  in  the 
fcpuichrc 


ft|MrtkulaHf  of  JERUSALEM.  ny 
chrc  befote  i  2nd,  according  U)  tura,  the  Txxtka 
bave  dilcosTTcd  the  cl^eac,  and  would  hive  punUbol 
diem  for  it-,  but  the  paniarch  reprcleotrd,  he  couli 
.  not  pay  Uian  the  money  required  ot"  hini,  if  itcy 
tookfixim  him  the  profit  of  the  holy  hie:  they  asrf  1 
therefore  fu&ird  to  continue  the  ju^le,  and  chrf  ' 
priefts  have  acted  the  cheat  fo  lon}i,  that  ihcy  are 
now  in  a  manner  compelled  to  ftand  to  it,  foi  fcarof 
ctidaogcring  the  apoftacy  ot  the  people. 

The  Arsncfiians  have  a  fpacious  convent  on  a  plra- 
fiuit  Jpot  of  ground,  which,  with  tlic  ^{anicos,  corers  ail 
that  panot  Mount  Sion  which  is  n  prefem  <*  ithin  the 
city  walls  ;  and  they  aHert,  that  their  church  is  butli 
over  the  place  where  St.  James,  the  brother  ot'  Joh^i  j 
was  beheaded.  -  i 

The  Armenians  have  a  chapel  in  the  convent  where 
they  fay  the  houfe  of  Annas  llood  i  ami  o<i  the  inOdc 
they  /how  a  hole  in  the  wall,  to  point  out  the  place 
where  one  of  the  oBjccrs  of  the  high  pridl  fmote  our 
Saviour.     In  the  couit  before  the  cbapel  is  an  oiivc- 
tree,  to  which  they  pretend  that  Chriil  was  chained 
by  order  of  Annas,  to  prevent  his.  elcape.     Tbe]|  1 
have  alfo  another  fniall  chapel  on  the  fpot  where  the  i 
houfe  of  Caiaphas  ftood;  and  under  the  altar,  tbe|^  I 
pretend,  is  the  flonc  tJiat  lay  at  {he  fXo^r  of  our  Sjh 
viour's  fcpulchre,  which  they  fay  the  Armenian-s  ftolc 
from  the  church  of  the  r<.|)ulchrc,  and  brought  ibi- 
thcTi  though  it  is  two  yards  and  a  tjiiartcr  long,  am 
yard  broad,  and  a  yai'4  thick.    It  is  pladlcrcd%>irei;rd 
pal)'  about  hve  or  iixplHCes  arc  )cf;  bajc  to  receiiMl 
^!ickJ'Vc'*<>f>he  pilgrims,    in  this  chapel  15  alio  Jhcwtf  J 
a  fmall  cell,  faid  to  be  uur  Lord's  prifon,  till  tli0| 
morojcg  when  he  was  tarrit-d  btf ire  PiJiic. 

Juft  without  Si(jn-g-Jie  is  the  church  of  the  Cx 
cilLum,  whcre«  they  lay,  Ctirilt  inlUtutcd  his  laflj 
fupper  i  but  this  bcin^  convcrtal  into  a  mofi^ue,  i 
Cnijftians  are  not  ptnuittrd  to  enter  it.  Ncir  it  j 
the  ruins  of  a  iiouli:  in  whii:h  the  Virgin  is  fu^pofcj 
to  hdvc  died ;  and  at  fotiie  diltance  friJEiut  is  a  place. 


tit      vr.'lC  ft  union  r/JUDEA, 

A*  tv  '•.•.'f.iu'A  M'*'ifi»  Si'jn,  wJ!*^^^^ -J/t  err. 

l^ri'-;(  vi-T.  I:*it/:'J  Uw  liT  Trom  thn  trm.-K  'jf  n» 
iaU-'-.  Ar  -A  (*f,i)l  <;,Itj»,r»;  frf»fn  ihrnvr  i\  r^yr  ?•/.- 
f/:.i  1-  .<  I'J,  4.h' .  //»r'; '  a]\,-\  l  l«r  Kitl'l  '/f  Bkoi.  inc 
i,',w  i,»'i.'-i  '.a-rii*/  ^4f/f'J '  l^li^  !«»:•.«  of  ^r^jsai  * 
•/tJy  a'c/iir  it,v»y  yat«li  l'»ti{;  awl  fiff-»fl  (JTO*-^,  otc- 
halt  of  «lf'  li  i->  u)i«-fi  ii|>  by  x  ((j«jar>:  buiHing,  ciedsJ 
for  %  f.t.arii'-l  Ic/'J*-,  It  n  iwrlvc  yunii  h^S  a&d 
txyJi'-i  af  l^r  'i'mii  mc*  i'  ff'«n  lli*r  tw,  wb?r*  6»E 
lif^U',  if  I'  fi  o;.'  ri  iot  iJi4«  iinrix^K  tnr'Aigh  «!«i 
tj,'7  '1.*/  I,-  Ji  <  ii  'ih-'.'-t  <:i(f<-friji  il'-yjtx*  'if  putrefic- 
ti'j;i.  A  ii'ik  >/•!'*«  fin-  <.iitii\>it  StnCt't  t\  t  an, 
1 'it.i.H  .'.tit  'A  (rvcil  fio'tii,  in.*-  wi'liin  Uftihcr,  whrae 
tt.«>  iii('  iril".  »!<■  Ui't  ",  Ititv  f>i'I  tltcirifelvr^  whaiibcj 
itjri'y.','.  ii.'Jt  M.H/T. 

On  Mount *>,r/':t  i)i<y  fl,*--//  f-vri!  rav«  etxvA 
intri'ai';  win'Jni}'_\  «..|l":l)i<  Vj.ul'.hrc*  rrf^lhe  Pro- 
jjJiTi^-,  ati'l  iw'iv  ;ir(  tc-'l  vj'ilt,,  wlirrc  if  h  prtCCad* 
f'l  thf  ip'-ftlr^  /«,rt.J,ll"l  rl.'M  TrcJ;  »tf\  if.  the  m 
of  til';  n.o'int  ili-yfli'-w  id-jilsf--  of  our  Siviourf 
ai(tri(ioii,  wl.'t':i!i'-ir  ■»/:)■.  auWiM/ »  Uffjc 'hurchjb* 
nil  that  r'tin^in^  of  ii  J^:•rl  o'tM;"jnj|' iijKjIaalyMItetgllC 
yard",  in  (Im-fi'-fr,  v/|ji' d  li  (n'l  lo  li'- (»v»-r  the  pfice 
wlicic  our  ]/>!')  (',1  In-.  U(t  f'citll'f)*  on  rareh }  and 
ii]>oii  a  lt->r'l  lloi.r  nii'l'i  tlic  >  i|,')l:i  i^  flfv/n  the  print 
of  otic  of  l.i'.  (■ct.  I  fn-i  '  )i.j.'l  of  ill'-  AfcenCaa 
ii  in  tliT  (.'jno-Jy  ol  rl.':  '(1J(^.^,  v/l,o  u(c  it  fw  I 
mofquc. 

On  anorliiT  Ii'!':  of  l!i'-  ii.oiini^il,  tli'-y  fliew  the 
pl/cc  wiicrr  (  hilt  licJiH'l  'Ii''  nty  inn!  wept  over  ici 
and  ncarilir  Ijoitoin  i:  ■.x'/f-.n  U'l'-';  iijK/ii  wliich  the 
blclfcd  Virj'^in  <lro]>>  ]>'-i  jMctl'-  :if  h  i  |ii-r  afriimption* 
in  order  lo  tonvitmr '  t.  '( li(»fii;r. ;  an')  thrrr  n  fttll  ra 
be  frcn  a  liiiall  wituWuy^  t  liunncl  ii|.oii  the  flone,  which 
they  Uy  is  tbc  in)}>rciriuii  of  the  {girdle  when  it  fell. 


J)articularly  of  J  E  R  U  S  A  L  E  M.        129 

A  little  lower  is  ihewn  Gethfemane,  an  even  piece  of 
ground  between  the  foot  of  Mount  Olivet  and  the 
brook  Cedron.  It  does  not  exceed  fifty-feven  yards 
fquare,  but  it  is  well  planted  with  olive-trees,  which 
the  people  are  fo  credulous  as  to  believe  are  the  fame 
which  grew  there  in  our  Sayiour*s  time ;  and  the 
olives,  Itones^  and  oil  produced  from  them,  are  pur- 
chafed  at  a  high  price  by  the  Spaniards :  and  yet  Jo- 
fephus  obferves,  thnt  Titr.s  cut  down  all  the  trees 
within  a  hundred  furlongs  of  Jerufalem. 

At  the.  upper  part  of  this  garden  is  a  fiat  ledge  of 
naked  rocks,  faid  to  be  the  place  on  which  Peter, 
James,  and  John  fell  afleepduringourSaviour'sagony; 
and  by  it  is  a  cave,  in  which,  it  is  faid,  he  underwent 
that  bitter  part  of  his  pafTion.  Near  it  is  a  narrow 
piece  of  ground,  twelve  yards  long  and  one  broad, 
laid  to  be  the  path  on  which  Judas  walked  up  to 
Chrift,  and  faying,  "Hail  matter,"  kifled  him.  This 
narrow  path  is  diftingui(hed  by  a  wall  on  each  (ide,  as 
a  terra  damnatay  which  was  done  by  the  Turks,  who, 
as  well  as  the  Chrillians,  deteft  the  ground  on  which 
that  infamous  piece  of  treachery  was  afted.  They 
alfo  (hew  the  place  wiiere  the  palace  of  Pilate  flood  ; 
but  upon  this  Tpot  is  now  an  ordinary  Turkifh  houfc, 
from  the  terrace  of  which  people  have  a  full  view  of 
the  fpot  on  which  the  temple  flood ;  and,  it  is  faid, 
that  a  fitter  place  for  an  auguft  building  could  not  be 
found  on  the  whole  earth :  but  no  Chriftian  is  per- 
mitted to  enter  within  the  borders  of  that  ground. 
In  the  middle  of  the  area  flands  a  mofque  of  an  o(^la- 
gonal  figure,  laid  to  be  creeled  on  the  I'pot  where  for- 
merly flood  the  Holy  of  Holies.  In  the  above  pre- 
tended houfe  of  Pilate,  they  (hew  the  room  where 
Chrifl  was  mocked  witli  enfigns  of  royalty,  and  buf- 
feted by  the  loldicrs.  On  the  other  fide  of  the  flreet 
is  a  room,  which  belongs  to  a  weaver's  fliop,  where 
it  is  fiid  our  >aviour  was  fcourged.  In  what  is  called 
the  Dolorous  Way,  they  fliew  the  place  where  Pilate 
brought  out  our  l.or.l  10  the  people,  fayinf^,  *'  Be- 
hold the  manj"  where  Lhrid  fiiintvd  twice  under  the 

Vol.  VI.  K  c^vi^'^^ 


ijo      DESCRIPTION  of  JUDEA, 

iT'iis-,  where  the  Virgin  Mary  fwooned  at  'thfi 
traiiicjl  {\-!,\\t;  whcri;  St.  Veronica  prcfented  him  a 
h.iniikL'rchii;t  to  wipe  liis  bleeding  brows  j  and  whnt 
tlie  lokii'jri  comptllod  Simon  to  bear  his  crofs.  They 
iKcw  liuiiy  oihcr  places  in  ilic  cicy  of  Jerulalem,  and 
its  ncijrlibourliood,  diilinguifticd  by  fome  aftionirf 
our  Saviour  dr  Iiis  apoflles;  (o  that  there  is  not  the 
Icaft  circumlbince  relating  to  his  behaviour,  eitbei 
recorded  in  the  holy  Scriptures,  or  believed  as  tradi- 
tions, but  they  can  point  out  the  very  fpot  where  it 
was  pertormcJ,  with  much  greater  cxaftnefs  than 
thofe  w!io  lived  when  the  events  were  performed. 
We  fliall  now  lead  our  readers  to  a  few  of  tnofe  place 
a:  a  diftancc  from  Jerufalem,  celebrated  on  accouac 
of  the  events  performtd  there. 

We  fliall  begin  with  Bethlehem,  which  is  fitnous 
for  being  the  birth-place  of  our  Saviour.  It  is  featd 
two  miles  to  the  fouth  of  Jerufalem,  on  the  ridge  of 
a  hill,  in  31"  30'  north  latitude  j  but  at  prefent  it  ii 
only  an  inconfiiJerabIc  place,  though  much  vifitedbf 
the  pilgrims.  It  has,  however,  a  church  ercfted  by 
Helena,  which  is  yet  entire,  and  in  the  form  erf  a 
crofe.  The  roof  is  of  cedar,  fupported  by  four  lowi 
of  columns,  made  of  an  entire  block  of  white  mar- 
ble, in  many  places  beautifully  fpcckled.  Under 
the  cliurch,  in  a  cave  hewn  out  of  die  rock,  is  the 
chapirl  of  the  nativity,  in  which  they  pretend  to  fhew 
the  manger  in  which  Chrill  was  laid,  alfo  cut  out  d 
the  rock,  an-l  now  cncrulled  with  marble.  An  altar, 
with  the  reprcfi-ntation  of  the  nativity  iserefted  here, 
and  lam[-s  kept  burning  before  it.  Here  is  alfo  the 
chapel  of  St.  Jofeph  the  fuppofed  father  of  our  Lord, 
ami  lif  the  l!o!y  Innocents.  The  place  is  chiefly  in- 
hiifiitfd  liy  a  few  poor  Greeks. 

The  wiiil-.Tncfs  of  St.  John,  though  very  rocky,  is 
wv!i  ci!kiv:itcJ,  and  produces  plenty  of  corn,  vines, 
ar;  I  oliveirecs.  In  this  wikleniels  they  (hew  a  cave 
::■.:<'■  ioiin.j.ii,  whti-e  they  fay  the  Baptill  ufed  to  exer- 
ciiV  hi:;  aulttritirs.  Between  this  wilderncfs  and  Je- 
niJ'ilcRi  ii  the  convent  of  St.  John,  which  is  a  large 
fi^uarc. 


particularly  of  JERUSALEM. 

fqiiare,  and  neat  modern  tirufture  ■,  and  its  church  is 
particiiliirly  beautiful. 

Nearer  to  Jenifalem  is  a  neat  convent  of  die  Greeks, 
that  takes  its  name  from  the  holy  crols.  It  Hands  in 
a  delightful  fituation  ;  but  what  is  moft  extraordi- 
nary, is  the  reafon  they  here  give  for  its  name  and 
foundation:  for  they  ridiculoully  pretend,  that  here 
is  die  earth  which  nourifhed  the  root  that  b;jre  the 
tree  of  which  the  crofs  was  made.  Under  the  high 
altar  they  Ihew  a  hole  in  the  ground,  where  the  ftump 
of  the  tree  ftood,  and  many  pilgrims  arc  fo  blindly 
fuperftitious  as  to  fail  down  and  worlhip  it. 

Nazareth  is  now  a  fmall  village,  fituated  in  a  kind 
of  valley  on  the  top  of  a  high  hill,  in  32"  30'  north 
latitude.  The  church  of  Nazareth  Is  partly  formed 
by  a  cave,  where  it  is  faid  the  Virgin  Mary  received 
the  BKlTage  from  the  angel,  "  Hail,  thou  that  art 
highly  favoured,  &c."  This  ftruifture  is  in  the  form 
ot  a  crofs,  and  is  fourteen  paces  long  and  fix  over, 
running  direftly  into  the  cave,  having  no  other  arch 
over  it  but  that  of  the  natural  rock.  The  tranfvcrfe 
part,  which  is  creeled  acrofs  the  mouth  of  the  cave, 
is  nine  paces  long  and  four  broad-,  and  where  thefc 
join  are  two  granite  pillars,  one  fuppofed  to  ftand 
where  the  angel,  and  the  other  where  the  virgin  flood, 'S 
at  the  time  of  the  annunciation.  The  pillar  of  the  j 
virgiii  has  been  broken,  and  eighteen  inclits  in  length 
taken  away  between  the  pillar  and  its  pedeftal,  and 
yet  it  touches  the  roof,  to  which  it  probably  hangs, 
though  the  friars  maintain  that  it  is  fupported  by  a 
miracle.  In  this  village  they  fticw  the  houfc  of  St. 
Jofeph,  where  Chrift  lived  near  thirty  years  in  fubjcc- 
tion  to  his  fuppofed  father.  Near  it  they  point  out 
the  place  where  ftood  the  fynagogue,  in  which  Jefus 
preached  the  fermon  by  which  his  countrymen  were 
Jo  exafperated.  At  each  of  thefe  lall  plices  are  the 
ruins  of  a  handfome  church,  er.-ft?d  by  Helena. 

The  next  phce  we  Ihall  mention  is  Mount  Tabor, 

a  high,  round,  and  beautiful  mountain,  near  Jcrufa- 

^^L  thought  to  be  that  on  which  our  Saviour  was 


132     DESCRIPTION  of  JUDEA. 

transfigured.  People  are  near  an  hour  in  afcending 
to  the  top,  where  they  find  a  moft  fruitful  and  deli- 
cious plain,  of  an  oval  form,  about  two  furlongs  in 
length,  and  one  in  brc^ilth.  It  is  every  where  en- 
compafTcd  with  trees,  except  toward  the  fouth,  and 
was  aniiently  cncomi).ifreil  with  walls,  trenches,  and 
other  fortifications  1  many  remains  of  which  arc  ftill 
vifible.  In  feveral  places  are  cifterns  of  good  water, 
and  near  the  phin  are  three  caves,  formed  to  repre- 
fent  the  tabernacles  I'cter  propofed  to  eredj  when, 
beholding  the  glory  of  the  transfiguration,  he  cried 
out,  "  Lord,  it  is  gond  for  us  to  be  here,  let  us  make 
three  tabernacl:<!,  &c."  The  top  of  this  mountain 
aftbrds  a  moft  di-lighiru]  profpeft.  The  north-well 
affords  a  view  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  alt  round 
are  the  fine  plains  of  Galilee  and  Efdraelon.  To  the 
ealhvard  is  Mount  Hennun,  and  at  the  foot  is  fcated 
Nain,  famous  tor  our  Lord's  reiloring  the  widow's 
fon  to  life.  Due  call  is  the  fea,  or  rather  lake  of 
'i'iberias  -,  and  clofe  to  it  a  Iteep  mountain,  down 
which  the  fwine  ran  and  perilhed  in  the  water.  To- 
ward the  north  is  wiiat  they  call  the  Mount  of  tlie 
Keaiitiidfs,  a  fmall  riling  from  which  Chrift  delivered 
his  k-rmon  ;  and  near  ihis  little  hill  is  the  city  of  Sa- 
pliet,  flaiiiiing  upon  a  high  mountain,  which,  being 
then  in  view,  our  Saviour  may  be  fuppofed  to  allude 
to  it  when  he  fays,  "  A  city  fet  on  a  hill  caniiot  be 
hid  j"  and  to  the  fouthward  is  a  view  of  the  moun- 
tains of  Ciilboa,  fatal  to  Saul. 

Mr.  Msundrell  oblerves,  as  fomewhat  extraordi- 
nary, tlhit  aliiioft  every  thing  reprefented  to  be  done 
in  ihe  Cid'f^tl  is  laid  by  the  peGpli:  who  fliew  the 
places  to  b'j  done'  in  cavc^,  evi-n  wiiert  the  circum- 
lianees  tjf  t^e  ai^iions  themlcK'es  iijcm  to  require  dif- 
frrcni:  jilacts;  thus  I'lyfe  of  the  birsh  of  [he  Virgin 
Mary,  i>f  the  aniunt  iation,  v.i  Mary's  lalutation  of 
l-.:i.-..;:;-th,  of  the  nativity  of  Chriit  and  John  thd 
ii;[.:.;l:,  of  the  t ran., figuration,  and  of  St.  IVtcr's  re- 
p-iicuicc,  are  reprcfcJiced  as  being  done  under  ground. 


O  F 

RICHARD  POCOCKE,  LL.D.  F.R.S. 

THROUGH  11 

EGYPT: 

With  occafional  Extrafts  from  Mr.  NORDEN. 

'T^O  the  travels  of  Dr.  Pococke  we  Ihall  unite  the 
■*  obR-rvaiions  of  the  ingenious  Mr.  Frederick 
Lcwia  Nordcn,  captain  of  tlie  Danilli  navy,  as  both 
of  them  travclletl  up  the  Nile  at  tl;c  fume  time.  The 
former  gentleman  is  diftinguiihed  by  his  great  U-arn- 
ing,  modefty  and  candour ;  and,  having  the  happi- 
nels  to  be  better  furnifhod  with  rccommend.itions  to 
the  great  men  of  the  coiimiiL's  through  which  he 
pafled,  met  with  fewer  difiiculties,  and  had  the  plea- 
iiire  of  examining  moir  (Irictiy,  fcveral  pUces,  to 
which  the  other  was  denied  cccef':.  But  the  Dodor 
was  little  acquainted  with  the  art  of  drawing,  anti 
the  rules  of  pcrlpcftivc  ;  while  Mr,  Norden  was  a 
perfect  mafter  of  thcfe  arts.  This  gentle.Tian  had 
improved  his  tafle  by  travelling  into  Italy,  and  his 
talents  gain:;d  him  the  diftini^ion  of  being  made  an 
affociate  to  the  Academy  of  Drawing  at  Florence. 
Though  not  well  acquainted  with  the  eaftcrn  Ian- 
gujges,  he  was  a  man  of  fuch  learning  and  abilities, 
that  the  late  king  of  Denmark  fcnt  him  into  Egypt 
ro  take  drawings,  on  ilic  fpot,  of  the  moft  rcmarkibic 
objeiits;  and  in  his  work  he  is  univcrially  allowed  to 
Jiivc  excelled  every  thing  of  the  kind  that  ha^  berti 
K  3  "-""-■ 


^ 


■■k34       POCOCKE  andNORDEN's 

hitherto  piiblilhed.     It  is  to  be  lamented  that  thdc 
two  gentltfmen,    both  of  Aich  diftinguiQied  merit, 
did  not  travel  in  company.    Had  Mr.  Norden  known  ] 
of  Dr.  Pococke's  being  engaged  in  the  fame  ptirfuir, 
he  would  doubtlefs  have  waited  for  him    at  Cairo.  I 
Their  travels  might  then  have  been  attended  with  ! 
more  fuccefs;  and  from  their  joint  obfervations  they 
might  have  compof^rd  a  work  that  would  have  been 
more  compleai  in  every  rcfpect.     To  repair  this  mis- 
fortune as  much  as  pofiible,  we  have  uniced  the  moft  j 
curious  obfervations  of  each  -,  following  the  narration  I 
of  our  learned  countryman,  and  inferting  Mr.  Nor- ; 
den's  remarks  in  crotchets.  ' 

Having  explained  our  intended  method,  we  fhall  I 
juft  prcmife  a  few  words  defcribing  the  Ctuatioti  of  1 
Egypt. 

According  to  the  poets,  Egypt  derived  its  namr-l 
fromEgyptus,  the  brother  of  Danaus,  once  fovereignof  I 
the  country.  By  the  Hebrews  and  Arabs  it  is  called  I 
Mifraim.  It  has  alfo  been  known  by  the  *iame  of  I 
Coptus,  the  capital  of  Upper  Egypt ;  and  by  ihe  f 
Turks  it  is  called  El-kcbit,  onhe  overflowed  country.  T 

Egypt  being   fituatcd  on  the   north-caft  part  of  I 
Africa,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  MecJiterra-  I 
nean ;  on  the  eafl  by  the  ifthmus  of  Suez  and  the  I 
Red  i'ea,  which  divide   it  from  Afia ;  on  the  Ibutli  % 
by  Nubia;  and  on  the  weft  by  the  dcfart  of  Barca  and' 
the  unknown  parts  of  Africa.     It  is  feated  between 
20°  and   32"-  north  latitude,  and  between   30°  and 
36**  caft  longitude  from  London;  and  is  therefore 
about  C50  miles  in  length  from  north  to  fouth,  and  1 
125  in  breadth  where  broadcft.  | 

Egypt  is  gener.ilty  divided  into  Lower,  Middft,  1 
and  Upper  tgypt.  The  greateft  part  of  Lower- 
Egypt  is  contained  in  a  triangular  illand  formed  by  1 
the  Mrdiierrancan  fi'a  and  the  two  great  branches  of_J 
the  Nile,  which  dividing  iifclf  five  or  fix  miles  below-T 
Old  Cairo,  one  part  of  it  flows  to  the  nonheaft  andif 
falls  into  the  fca  at  Damictta,  the  antieni  Pelufium  i 

aQdJ 


TRAVELS  tlirough  EGYPT. 


'55 

weft. 


A  the  oiher  branch,  which  runs  toward  the  nonh-« 
falls  into  the  Tea  at  Rcri"«:o. 

We  embarked  at  Leghorn,  fays  Dr.  Pocotkc,  on 
the  7th  of  September,  1737,  and  oq  the  Z9rh  at"  the 
fame  month  arrived  at  Alexandria  in  E^pi,  being 
only  a  week  in  otir  vovagc,  from  the  time  when  vrc 
loft  fight  of  Sicily. 

Foi-  many  ages  Egypt  was  governed  by  its  own 
kitigi,  tin  It  was  conquered  by  the  Pcrilim  under 
Cambrics,  At  icngth  Alexander,  with  the  conqurft 
of  Pcrfta.  obnined  the  poiTcfiirin  cif  th'S  counirj-, 
ani  made  Ptdrmy  his  general,  king  of  t'.gjp[-, 
under  whole  defendants  it  remained,  nil  it  b^amc 
3  Roman  province.  On  the  diviHon  of  the  cmj-irc, 
Egypt  belonged  to  the  eaftern  emperors  ■,  but  iojn 
after  the  cftablilhment  of  the  Mjliooictan  rrligian,  k 
was  liken  from  them  by  the  Saracens,  and  was  go- 
verned by  different  families,  till  in  1270  the  Mama- 
luke  government  ttxik.  place,  under  which  contlitu- 
lion  a  Qave  was  always  advanced  to  the  throne,  and 
no  fon  could  fucceed  to  his  father's  crown  :  but  this 
government  was  fupprcffi:d  by  lliltan  Sclim,  and  it 
ItiU  remains  in  the  Ottoman  family. 

On  the  return  of  Alexander  irom  confuking  the 
oracle  of  Jupiter  Ammon,  he  was  fo  pleal'cd  wi:h  the 
fituaiion  of  Khacotis,  that  he  ord^^red  a  cicv  to  be 
built  there,  which  from  him  was  called  Alexandria, 
This  new  city  became  the  capital  of  the  kingdom,  a 
territory  was  annexed  to  it,  and  it  was  made  a  diftinft 
province  of  itleif.  The  Arabian  hiftorians  fay,  thac 
when  the  city  was  taken  by  the  Saracens,  U  cootainei 
4000  palaces,  as  many  baths,  400  (quares,  and 
40,000  Jews  who  paid  tribute. 

The  ports  of  Alexandria  were  formed  by  the  iJle  of 
Pharos,  whicli  extended  acrofs  the  mouth  of  the  bay, 
and  toward  the  weft-end  was  joined  to  the  co:it:ncr.t 
by  a  caiifcway  and  two  bridges  90  paces  long.  On 
a  rock,  cncompaflcd  by  the  fea  at  the  eaft-eiid  of  tlic 
iOand,  was  the  Umous  Pharos,  or  light-houle,  which 
^'  Hcems 


136       POCOCKE  aud  NORDEN's 

feems  to  be  the  fpot  on  which  one  of  the  two  caftks 
is  builc,  at  thj  c:*rrap*cc:  of  the  new  port;  and  the 
pillars  fccn  in  a  cairn  lira  within  this  entrance,  may  be 
the  rciTir.ins  of  that  fupcrb  ftrufture.  I  faw  thcle  pil-r 
lars  when  1  went  out  in  a  boat  in  a  calm  day,  and 
could  perceive  the  bottom ;  but  my  making  fuch 
nice  obf.rvati-jns  fo  near  thtf  caftle  was  much  taken 
notice  of,  and  I  was  told  that  fcveral  foldicrs,  who 
were  that  day  on  tjuard  in  the  caftle,  WwTe  puni(hed 
for  fuffering  me  to  examine  the  port  with  fuch 
cxidliiefs. 

[Norhing  can  be  more  benitiful  than  to  view  from 
hence  the  mixture  of  antiqu'j  and  modern  monu- 
ments, which  cvcrrv  where  oiler  themil Ives  to  view. 
Upon  palnng  the  fmulicu  callle,  called  the  Little 
i'hariliv)n,  you  perceive  a  row  of  great  towers  joined 
to  each  other  bv  the  ruins  of  a  thick  wall.     A  finsle 

o 

obeiifl;  has  fuMicicnt  height  to  make  iif.lf  remarked, 
wlici'c  t!ie  wall  is  fullcn  uown.  \{  you  turn  yourfelf 
a  liLtlc  tartlier,  you  perceive  that  the  towers  appear 
ygain,  but  only  in  a  dilhnt  view.  The  new  Alexan- 
dria afterward  makes  a  figure  with  its  minarets;  and 
at  a  d'iflance  bcycnd  this  coliTmn  rifcs  the  column  of 
Pcmpey,  a  moft  rr.ajcliic  monu-Tierit.  You  likewile 
ciiJbover  hills  t!;at  ap|:.cur  to  confift  of  aflies,  and  fbme 
other  tOvvcrs.  At  kr!^?,!;Ii  tli.'  view  is  terminated  by^. 
great  fqiiare  buiiding,  chat  :l-r/trs  for  a  magazine,  of 
powder.] 

The  outer  walh  roi:n  i  t!;c  old  city,  arc  beautifully 
built  of  hcvv':i  {i):Tc,  and  kcm  to  be  antient.     They  j 
are  defended  by  Icmi-circular  towers,  20  feet  in  dia-  . 
meter,  a:id  a'o  Ait  130  feet  afunder:  at  each  of  them 
a.*c?  ilcj's  to  afcend  up  to  the  battlemen\s,  there' being, 
a  walk  round  on  t!ie  top  of  the-  wailc  built  on  arches. 
The  inner  w.iTs  ci'  the  old   ciry,  wl^ich  feem  ereftcd    ' 
in  the   n:id..!e  r.gjs,  ^re   much  Ihonger  and  higher 
th;"in  the  o:!K*rs. 

'I'hepahiCC,  wirh  the  fuburbs  bclonp;ing  to  it,  was 

a  iburih  part  uf  t!ij  city;  widiin  its  diilrid  was  the 

7  mufcum. 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.        137 

mufcum,  or  academy,  and  the  burial-place  of  the 
kings,  where  was  depofited  the  body  or  Alexander* 
in  a  coffin  of  gold  -,  which  being  taken  away,  it  was 
put  into  one  of  glals:  in  this  condition  it  probably 
was  when  Auguftus  took  a  view  of  the  corple  of  that 
hero,  and  fcattering  flowers  over  it,  adorned  it  with  a 
golden  crown. 

The  moft  extraordinary  remains  of  Alexandria  arc 
the  ciftcrns  that  are  built  under  their  houfes,  and  fup- 
ported  by  two  or  three  arches  or  column;,  for  re- 
ceiving the  water  of  the  Nile  by  a  canal,  as  they  do 
at  this  day.  This  canal  of  Canopus  conies  to  the 
walls  near  Pompey's  pillar,  and  has  a  palTage  under 
ihcm.  But  the  water  is  not  only  conveyed  to  the  cif- 
tcrns from  the  canal  where  it  enters  the  city  ;  but  alio 
before  from  fcvcral  dilUnt  parts  of  the  canal,  by  paf- 
Uges  under  ground  to  the  higher  parts  of  thf  city. 
The  defcent  to  thcfe  cifterns  is  by  round  walls,  and 
the  water  is  drawn  up  by  windlafles.  But  the  great 
lake  Mareoiis,  which  was  formerly  navigable,  is  now 
generally  dry,  and  has  only  water  in  it  after  great 
rains. 

f  We  arc  informed  by  hiflory,  that  the  califli  or  ca- 
nal was  made  to  facilitate  commerce,  and  for  the  con- 
veyance of  goods  from  Cairo  to  Alexandria,  without 
cxpofmg  them  to  the  dangers  that  attend  the  paflagc 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Nile.  The  people  alfb  reaped 
another  advantage  from  it ;  the  city  of  Alexandria 
being  dcflicute  of  frelh  water,  was  by  this  means  fup- 
plicd.  But  the  d-cay  of  commerce,  and  the  ruin  of 
the  country,  no  longer  permit  the  inhabitants  to  be 
at  the  cxpcncc  of  keeping  it  in  repair.  Hence  at 
prcfcnt  it  rcfcmblcs  a  diich  ill  kept  up,  and  has 
Icarceiy  water  enough  to  funply  th«  ref.-rvoirs  of  New 
Alexandria.  When  the  old  city  tUhfiUcd,  all  the 
ground  IE  occupied  was  ma(,lo  hollow  for  rc&rvoJrs; 
Uicgrraieft  part  of  which  are  filled  up,  and  no  more 
than  half  a  dozen  remain^.  All  the  an  hes  of  ilielc 
rcfcrvoi.'s  arc  made  o;'  brick,  and  covered  with  the 

fame 


138       POCOCKE  snd  NORDEITs 

iamc  matter,  imi)cnetrable  by  water ;  with  which  the 
walls  and  refcrvoirs  arc  covered  that  one  fees  ac  B^ 
and  at  Rome,  in  the  baths  of  feverat  emperors.] 

The  materials  of  the  old  city  have  been  carried 
away  to  build  the  ncwi  fo  that  there  arc  only  a  few 
houfes  at  the  Rofetto  and  Bagnio  Gates,  fome 
mofques,  and  three  convents  within  the  old  walls. 
All  over  the  city  arc  feen  fragments  of  columns  of 
beautiful  marble,  the  remains  of  its  antient  grandeur 
and  magnificence.  Among  the  reft  is  an  obetiHc  63 
feet  high,  of  one  finglc  piece  of  granite:  but  two 
of  its  tour  faces  are  fo  disfigured  by  time,  that  you 
can  fcarcely  fee  in  them  the  hieroglyphics,  with  which 
they  were  anciently  covered.  This  is  Hill  called  the 
obelilk  of  Cleopatrs.     Near  it  lies  another,  broken. 

The  lofty  Corinthian 'column,  called  Pompey's  Fil- 
lar,  is  fituated  on  a  fmall  eminence,  abuuc  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  to  the  fouth  of  the  walls  -,  and  as  Strabo 
makes  no  mention  of  it,  it  was  probably  erected  after 
his  time,  perhaps  in  honour  of  Titus  or  Adrian. 
Near  it  are  fome  fragments  of  pillars  of  granite  mar- 
ble ;  and  it  plainly  appears  chat  fome  magnificent 
building  has  been  creftcd  there,  and  that  this  noble 
pillar  was  placed  in  the  area  before  it.  Some  Ara- 
bian hillonans  fay,  that  here  was  the  palace  of  Julius 
Csefar.  This  pillar  is  of  granite,  and,  befide  the 
foundation,  confifts  of  only  three  {tones  •»  the  capital 
is  judged  to  be  eiglit  or  nine  feet  deep,  and  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  the  leaf  feeming  to  be  the  plain 
laurel  or  bay  leaf.  A  hole  having  been  found  on  the 
top,  it  has  been  thought  that  a  Itatiie  was  ere£tcd 
upon  it.  The  fhafc,  taking  in  the  upper  torus  of  the 
bafe,  is  of  one  piece  of  granite  marble,  88  feet  9 
inches  high,  and  9  feet  in  diameter.  The  pedeftal, 
with  part  of  the  bafc,  [which  are  of  a  grcyilh  Hone 
refenibling  flinrj  are  12  fee:  and  a  halt  high;  and 
the  foundation,  which  confifls  of  two  tier  of  rtones, 
is  4  feet  9  inches  ;  fo  that  I  foiuul  the  whole  height  to 
be  114  Icct. 

To 


TRAVELS  through  EGY  PT.      139 

To  .the  weft,  beyond  the  canal  of  Canopus,  are 
fomc  catacombs,  which  confift  of  feveral  apartments 
cut  in  the  rock  on  each  fide  of  an  open  gallery  :  on 
both  fides  of  thcfe  apartments  are  three  ftories  of 
holes,  big  enough  to  depofit  the  bodies  in. 

[The  borders  of  the  great  canal  are  covered  with 
different  Ibrts  of  trees,  and  peopled  by  flying  camps 
of  Bedouins,  or  wandering  Arabs-,  who  there  feed 
their  flocks,  by  which  they  maintain  themfelves ;  but 
in  other  refpects  live  in  great  poverty.] 

About  four  leagues  from  Alexandria,  is  Aboukir, 
called  by  Europeans  Bikiere.  This  town  is  Gtuated 
on  the  weft-fide  of  a  wide  bay,  a  chain  of  rocks  ex- 
tending from  it  to  a  fmall  ifland  about  half  a  mile 
long,  and  a  furlong  in  breadth.  In  this  ifland  are 
the  remains  of  fome  fubterranean  paflages,  and  of  a 
piece  of  a  flatue  we  conjeftured  to  be  a  fphynx. 
About  two  miles  nearer  Alexandria  are  the  ruins  of 
an  antient  temple  in  the  water,  with  broken  ftatues 
of  fphynxes,  and  pieces  of  columns  of  yellow  marble 
and  granite. 

[Nearer  the  city  are  feen  on  the  fliore  cavities  in  the 
rocks,  ufed  as  agreeable  retreats ;  where  the  people 
enjoyed  the  cool  air,  and,  without  being  feen,  but 
when  they  chofe  it,  law  every  thing  that  paffed  in 
the  port.  Some  jutting  rocks  furhilhed  a  delightful 
fituation,  and  the  natural  grottos  in  thofe  rocks  gave 
the  opportunity  of  forming  there,  by  the  aflfiftance 
of  the  chiflcl,  re.il  places  ot  pleafure. 

Oppofice  the  point  of  the  peninfula  that  forms  the 
port,  is  a  cavern,  which  is  commonly  termed  a  tem- 
ple. The  only  entrance  is  a  little  opening,  through 
which  you  pals  lighted  by  flambeaux,  ftooping  tor 
20  paces,  when  you  enter  a  tolerably  large  iquare  hall. 
The  top  of  the  cicling  is  fmo^th,  but  the  bottom 
and  fides  arc  covereJ  wich  land,  and  the  excrements 
of  bats  and  other  animals  u\:\t  harbor.r  there.  From 
hence  you  pals  through  another  alley  into  a  round 
cavern,  the  top  of  which  is  cut  in  the  form  of  an 

arch. 


140       POCOCKE  and  NORDEN's 

arch.  It  has  four  gates  oppofite  to  each  other,  each 
adorned  with  an  architrave,  a  cornice  and  a  pedi- 
ment, with  a  crefcent  on  the  top.  One  of  thcfe  gates 
fervcs  for  an  entrance ;  the  others  form  each  a  niche, 
that  only  contains  a  kind  of  cheft,  faved  out  of  the 
rock  in  hollowing  it,  and  large  enough  to  contain  a 
dead  body.  Thus  it  appears,  that  what  is  in  that 
country  elteemed  a  temple,  mud  have  been  the  tomb 
of  fome  great  man  or  Ibvereign  prince.  A  gallery, 
which  continues  beyond  this  pretended  temple,  (ccms 
to  (hew  that  farther  on  there  are  other  ftruftures  of 
the  fame  nature. 

[As  to  the  new  city  of  Alexandria,  it  may  be  juftly 
faid  to  be  a  poor  orphan,  who  had  no  other  inheri- 
tance but  the  venerable  name  of  its  father.  The  pro- 
digious extent  of  the  antient  city,  is  in  the  new  con- 
traded  to  a  Imall  neck  of  land,  which  divides  the 
two  ports.  The  mod  fuperb  temples  are  converted 
into  plain  molques ;  the  mod  magnificent  palaces 
into  houfcs  of  bad  ftrufture ;  and  opulent  and  numer- 
ous people  have  given  way  to  a  few  foreign  traders, 
and  to  a  multitude  of  wretches,  who  are  the  flaves 
iA  thole  on  whom  they  depend.]  Yet  notwithftand- 
ing  tiic  meanntls  of  the  buildings  in  general,  in  feve- 
ral  hioufcs  built  round  courts  on  porticos,  they  have 
placed  a  great  variety  of  columns  moft  of  granite, 
that  were  once  the  ornaments  of  the  antient  city. 

On  the  24:h  of  October,  wefet  out  from  Alexan- 
cr::^,  in  orcicr  to  proceed  to  Rofetto.  In  this  journey 
I  had  the  honour  t.)  accompany  the  Englidi  conful. 
Vve  can.c  ro  frrry  over  the  ourlct  of  a  lake,  that  is 
iVippolcd  K)  ii.ivc  been  the  lower  part  of  the  Canopic 
branch  of  the  Nile.  On  the  other  fide  is  a  kane, 
v.'liere  paircngcrs  repoie,  and  think  themfelves  fafc 
from  tiic*  aitcmpts  of  the  Arabs,  who  rarely  go  to 
that  ficic.  All  the  country  is  a  landy  defart,  where 
the  fund  cliangcs  fo  ofren,  that  it  would  be  difficult  to 
find  t!ic  ways  were  it  not  for  1 1  pillars  erefted  acrofs 
the  j^lain,  at  about  the  diftancc  of  half  a  mile  from 

I  each 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      141 

each  other.  At  one  of  thefe  pillars  an  arch  is 
turned,  and  an  earthen  vafe  placed  under  it,  which, 
by  fome  charity,  is  kept  full  of  Nile  water  for  the 
benefit  of  travellers. 

The  conful  was  met  by  his  vice-conful  of  Rofetto, 
and  by  many  of  the  French,  about  a  league  from 
that  town.  On  our  coming  to  fome  fandy  hills,  I 
was  furprifed  at  feeing  a  magnificent  tent,  where  a 
handfome  collation  was  prepared.  After  this  repaft, 
we  all  mounted  on  fine  horfes  fent  by  the  governor  of 
the  city,  and  each  was  attended  by  a  groom  on  foot, 
in  which  manner  we  continued  our  journey  to  Ro- 
fetto. The  next  morning  the  governor  fcnt  a  pre- 
fent  of  Ihecp  and  fowls  to  the  conful,  which  was 
probably  returned  by  a  prcfcnt  of  much  greater 
value. 

Rofetto,  called  by  the  Egyptians  Rafchid,  is  on 
the  weft  fide  of  the  branch  of  the  Nile,  antiently 
called  Bolbitinum,  and  is  efteemed  one  of  the  molt 
pleafant  places  in  Egypt.  It  is  near  two  miles  in 
length,  and  confifts  of  two  or  three  long  ftreets. 
The  hills  about  this  town  fcem  as  if  they  had  been 
the  antient  barriers  of  the  fea.  The  fine  country  of 
Delta  on  the  other  fide  of  the  Nile,  and  two  beauti- 
ful iflands  a  little  below  the  town,  afford  a  dt  lightful 
profpeft.  To  the  north,  the  country  is  improved 
with  pleafant  gardens  of  citrons,  oranges,  lemons, 
and  almoft  all  forts  of  fruit,  variegated  with  groves 
of  palm-trees,  fmall  lakes,  and  fields  of  rice.  1  he 
inhabitants  have  a  great  manufaftory  of  ilriped  and 
other  coarfe  linens ;  but  the  chief  bufincfi  of  t!ie 
place  is  the  carriage  of  goods  between  this  town  and 
Cairo:  all  European  merchandife  being  brought  from 
Alexandria  hithrr  by  feii,  and  fent  from  lienco  in 
other  boats  to  Cairo  j  as  thofc  brought  down  the  Nile 
from  Cairo  are  here  put  into  large  boats  to  be  ItiK  to 
Alexandria.  For  this  purj)ofe  the  Europeans  have 
their  vice-confuls  and  factors  here  10  tranfaft  t'leir 
bufincfs,  and  letters  are  regularly  brought  from  Alexr 


unJria^ 


142       POCOCKE  and  NORDEN's 

andria,  to  be  fcnt  by  the  boats  to  Cairo ;  however, 
letters  of  greater  confequence,  that  require  difpatch, 
are  fent  by  foot  meffengers  acrofs  the  defarts. 

At  Rofetto  I  faw  two  naked  faints,  who  are  com- 
monly ideots,  and  are  treated  with  great  veneration 
in  Egypt ;  one  a  lufty  elderly  man,  and  the  other  a 
youth  about  1 8  years  of  age  :  ideots  arc  greatly  re- 
vered by  the  Mahometans,  being  fuppofed,  abfurdly 
enough,  to  be  actuated  by  a  divine  fpirit.  I  obferved 
th^  people  kifs  the  hands  of  the  latter,  as  he  went 
along  the  ftreets;  and  was  told,  that  on  Fridays, 
when  the  women  go  to  the  burial-places,  thcfc  naked 
ideots  frequently  fit  at  the  entrance  of  them,  when 
they  not  only  kifs  their  hands,  but  (hew  them  the 
fame  refpedt  that  was  paid  to  a  certain  heathen  idol, 
and  expeft  to  receive  the  fame  advantage  from  it. 
One  of  thefe  faints  I  myfelf  afterward  law  fitting  at 
the  door  of  a  mofque  in  the  high-road  without  the 
gates  of  Cairo,  with  a  woman  on  each  fide  of  him ; 
but  though  the  caravan  was  going  to  Mecca,  and  a 
multitude  of  people  were  paffing  by,  they  were  fo 
accuftomed  to  fuch  fights,  that  no  notice  was  taken  of 
them. 

About  two  miles  north  of  Rofetto,  on  the  weft 
fide  of  the  river,  is  the  caftle  of  that  town,  which  I 
went  to  fee.  It  is  a  fquare  building,  with  round 
towers  at  the  corners,  built  of  brick  cafed  with  ftone; 
and  has  port-holes  near  the  bottom :  about  them' I 
obferved  feveral  pieces  of  yellow  marble,  many  of 
which  had  hieroglyphics  on  them,  and  might  be 
pieces  of  fome  broken  obeliflc. 

While  I  was  at  Rofetto,  I  went  to  pay  a  vifit  to  the 
Greek  patriarch  of  Alexandria,  who  ufually  refides 
at  Cairo ;  and  being  introduced  by  the  dragoman  or 
interpreter  to  the  conful,  I  had  all  the  honours  done 
me  that  are  ufual  at  an  eaftern  vifit.  A  lighted  pipe 
is  brought  by  a  fervant ;  then  a  faucer  of  fweat-meats 
is  carried  about,  and  a  little  in  a  fmall  fpoon  given  to 
each  pcrfon.    After  the  coffee  is  Icrved,  every  one  is 

givea 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.  143 
given  a  bafon  of  fticrbet,  by  a  fervani  with  a  hand- 
kerchief on  his  arm,  for  them  to  wipe  after  they  have 
drank.  When  it  is  time  to  go  away,  the  hands  of 
the  gucft  are  fprinkled  with  rolc-watcr,  with  which 
he  rubs  his  face.  Incenfe  is  then  brought,  which  he 
receives  leaning  his  head  forward,  and  holding  out 
his  garment  on  each  fide  to  receive  the  fmoke.  But 
this  compliment  is  only  paid  where  they  would  Ihew 
a  particular  regard  1  the  mafter  making  a  fign  for  it, 
when  he  thinks  ic  time  to  end  the  vifit,  or  the  gueft 
offers  to  go  :  but  it  is  never  done  when  the  vifitor  is 
much  fiiperior,  till  he  makes  a  motion  to  retire. 
Every  thmg  is  done  in  thefe  vifics  with  the  greateft: 
decency,  and  the  moft  profound  filence  1  the  (laves 
or  fcrvants  (landing  at  the  bottom  of  the  room,  with 
their  hands  joined  before  them,  watching  with  the 
uimoft  attention  every  motion  of  their  matter,  who 
commands  them  by  figns. 

I  embarked  with  the  confu]  for  Cairo  on  the  4th  of 
November  on  board  a  fine  galley.  Thefe  are  fiat- 
bottomed  veficis,  with  three  marts  :  as  they  are  nearly 
half  covered,  they  have  one  large  handlbme  room, 
and  a  fmaller  near  the  ftcrn  for  the  women,  when 
there  are  any  on  board.  They  have  lattice  windows 
all  round,  and  fwivcl-guns  faftcned  toward  the  prow. 
They  fail  well  againft  the  current  with  a  good  bri(k 
wind ;  but  in  a  calm,  or  when  the  wind  is  contrary, 
and  not  very  high,  they  are  drawn  along  by  the  men 
on  Ihore,  with  a  cord  faftencd  to  the  malt.  When 
ihcy  are  obliged  to  lie  by,  as  they  commonly  do  in 
the  night,  the  people  amufc  themfelves  by  telling 
long  Arabian  itorics :  and  if  they  are  obliged  to  ftop 
by  day,  the  boatmen  frequently  pafs  away  the  time  in 
sfiing  low  farces. 

Saihng  on  the  Nile  is  extreamly  pleafant,  from  the 
richncis  and  tenility  of  the  country  on  its  banks. 
The  village?,  with  palm-trees  planted  round  tiicm, 
appear  like  lb  many  delightful  groves  -,  and  when  the 

untry  is  overaowed»  they  uc  «U  beautiful  iQands. 
4  In 


144       POCOCKE  and  NORD£N*s 

In  December,  which  is  here  the  middle  of  fpring^ 
Egypt  appears  in  its  moft  lovely  drefs  :  many  plants 
are  then  in  full  bloflbm,  and  the  country  is  covered 
with  green  corn  and  clover. 

Stopping  at  a  village  for  want  of  wind,  we  vifitcd 
the  governor  of  the  place,  who  offered  us  coffee,  and 
at  our  departure  fent  after  us  a  prefent  of  50  eggs. 
On  our  arrival  at  Ouarden  we  alfo  waited  on  the  go- 
vernor, who  would  have  entertained  us,  and  not  only 
fent  us  a- lamb  and  100  eggs,  but  came  on  horieback 
to  the  boat  to  return  the  vifit ;  and  the  ufual  honours 
being  paid  him,  it  was  intimated  that  he  would  think 
wine  an  acceptable  prefcnt  -,  which  was  accordingly 
fent  him  after  it  was  dark,  to  prevent  giving  umbrage 
to  the  more  confcientious  muflulmen. 

The  night  before  we  finilhed  our  voyage  was  fpent 
in  mirth  and  firing  of  guns,  on  our  being  met  by  our 
friends.  The  next  morning,  having  pafled  through 
the  village  of  Hele,  we  were  joined  by  a  great  num- 
ber of  people  that  came  to  meet  the  conful ;  who 
mounting  a  fine  horfe,  was  preceded  by  fix  janizaries ; 
and  a  man  who  went  before  fprinkling  water  on  the 
ground,  to  lay  the  duft.  In  this  manner  be  entered 
the  city,  followed  by  his  friends  and  dependants  rid- 
ing upon  afles ;  no  Chriftian,  except  a  conful,  being 
allowed  to  ride  on  a  horfe  into  the  city. 

i  As  I  chufe  to  finifli  my  account  of  Delta  and  the 
country  about  it,  before  1  give  a  defcription  of  Cairo, 
I  (hall  do  it  in  this  place,  though  I  did  not  make  a 
voyase  on  the  caftern  branch  of  the  Nile  till  I  left 
that  city,  on  my  going  out  ot  Egypt. 

Four  or  five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  this  branch 
of  the  Nile  is  fituated  Damiata,  a  large  town,  but 
n.cft  of  it  ill  built,  it  being  chiefly  inhabited  by  fifh- 
^rmcn  and  janizaries.  At  the  north-end  it  has  a  very 
fine  large  tower  of  hewn  fl:one,  perhaps  built  by  the 
Mamaiukes,  after  they  had  recovered  Damiata  from 
tp.e  C  hriilians.  The  country  from  thence  10  Grza  is 
chiefly  inhabited  by  Arabs,  who  are  under  no  regu- 
lar 


9 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.       145 

lar  government  J  and  the  people  of  Damiata  have 
fuch  an  avcrfion  to  the  European  Chriftians,  that  one 
of  them  cannot  go  into  a  part  of  the  town,  not 
ufually  frequented  by  thofe  of  his  religion,  without 
being  infulted.  This  particular  averfion  to  Europe- 
ans feems  to  be  handed  down  to  them  from  their  fore- 
fathers, and  to  be  occafioned  by  the  holy  war,  the 
chief  fcene  of  which  in  Egypt  was  about  Damiata. 
This  place  was  taken  by  the  Chriftians,  and  afterward 
rcftorcd  to  the  Egyptians,  as  part  of  the  ranfom  of 
Lewis  IX.  who  had  been  taken  prifoner.  The  trade 
here  confifts  in  the  exporting  of  rice  and  coffee  to 
Turkey,  and  the  importation  of  foap  from  the  coafts 
bf  Syria,  and  of  tobacco  from  Latikea. 

Proceeding  from  Damiata  to  Cairo,  we  paflcd  by 
the  large  city  of  Manfoura,  on  the  eaft-fide  of  the 
Nile,  which  I  conjefture  to  be  Tanis,  the  Zoan  of 
the  Scriptures!  The  canal  which  runs  north  of  thi^ 
town  falls  into  the  lake  Menzale.  1  he  country  on 
each  fide  of  this  branch  of  the  Nile  is  even  more 
beautiful  than  on  the  banks  of  the  other  already  dc- 
I'cribed  •,  it  being  thicker  let  with  villages  furroundcd 
by  plcafant  groves  of  palm-trees.  VVc  ftopped  at 
tlie  port  of  Great  Mahalla,  and  rode  on  hired  aflcs 
about  four  miles  to  the  city,  which  is  h::  ge,  and  fitu- 
ajed  between  two  canals :  it  is  tolerably  well  built, 
and  is  the  capital  ot  the  province  of  Gar  jich.  There 
are  about  500  Copti  Chriftians  there,  who  have  a 
little  mean  church.  I  was  rccommen.Ieil  to  a  mer- 
chant here,  who  was,  1  think,  a  native  of  the  parts 
toward  Morocco  •,  bur,  though  he  had  made  four 
pilgrimages  to  Mecca,  was  a  very  honeft  and  worthy 
Muflulmun.  He  gave  me  a  man,  who  fjxkc  the 
Lh/gua  trapua^  (a  c(iir\ipt  Italian  ufed  in  the  caft)  to 
attend  me  wherever  I  pleafcd  ;  and  a  vci  y  g'<  d  .iparc- 
ment  in  a  k;ine  tliat  belonged  to  him.  The  next 
morning  he  tent  us  a  very  handfome  collation,  when 
1  tirll  tufted  the  butter  of  Eg\pt  in  it^  greaieft  |cr- 
fi&ion,    and  found  ic  very  delicate.     At  night  we 

V(a.  VI.  L  WLfc 


146   POCOCKE  and  NORDEN*s 

were  fervcd  with  a  very  plentiful  fupper  j  but  thoi^fc 
he  came  to  us  betbre  we  had  done,  he  would  not  cat: 
for  this  is  the  cuftom  in  the  caft,  if  they  come  while 
perfons  are  at  table,  which  chcy  feldom  do,  except 
they  attend  on  iholc  of  verj'  fupcrior  rank. 

The  next  day  h  proceeded  to  the  village  of  Baal- 
bait,  four  or  five  miles  to  the  nonh-eaft.  It  is  Gtu- 
aied  about  a  furlong  to  the  eaft  of  the  canal  Thaba- 
nca,  on  one  of  thofe  artificial  eminences  on  which 
Bufiris  was  probably  builr,  a  city  famous  for  its 
temple  dedicated  10  Ifis  ;  there  being  great  remains 
of  a  temple  there,  the  moft  coftly  in  its  materials  of 
any  in  Kgyp:.  At  about  100  feet  diftance  it  is  fur- 
roimJt'd  by  a  mound,  raifed  to  keep  out  the  Nile. 
The  ouifide  of  this  ftruifture  was  of  grey  granite, 
and  the  infidc  and  columns  of  red  j  the  capitals  being 
the  head  of  Ifis.  There  appears  to  have  been  four 
rowi  of  1  2  cohimns  each  in  the  temple  j  but  what 
commanded  my  attention  ftiil  more,  was  ihe  exqut- 
fite  bcPATty  of  the  Iculpmre  :  for  though  the  figures 
are  only  al'out  four  feet  high,  there  is  fomcthing  lo 
fine,  and  lb  divine,  in  the  mien  of  the  deities  and 
prieils,  that  far  exceeds  any  thing  I  ever  law  in  that 
way.  'ihe  natives  are  conllantly  deftroying  thefe  line 
fragments  of  Egyptian  antiquities,  and  1  fawlbmc  of 
the  pillars  cut  into  mill-ftones. 

From  this  place  v/e  rcturneii  to  the  boat,  and  pn>- 
ceeding  toward  Cairo,  paflixl  by  Semcnud  and  Abou- 
fir,  two  confiderable  towns.  Having  entered  the 
Nile,  where  it  funs  in  one  ttream,  we  find,  about  a 
leajrue  to  the  ciftward,  the  remains  of  the  anticnt 
city  of  Hcliopolis  which  is  the  Or  of  the  Scriptures. 
This  was  a  city  of  greit  antiquity,  famous  for  the 
worfhip  of  the  fun.  A  large  mound  tncompalles  the 
■whol;; ;  and  at  the  entrance  on  the  welt  end  are  the 
ri^ins  of  a  Iphynx,  of  a  bright  fhining  yellow  marble. 
The  priefts  of  Hcliopolis  were  die  molt  famous  of  all 
Kf'vpt  for  the  Itudy  of  philolbpliy  and  aftronomy, 
and  were  the  firll  who  computed  time  by^ears  of 

3(>5 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT. 


W7 


365  days.  Herodotus  came  here  to  be  inftniArJ  in 
all  the  learning  of  the  Egyptians  j  and  Sirabo,  when 
he  came  to  this  city,  was  ibcwn  the  apartments  of 
Plato  and  Eudoitus. 

A  liide  to  the  Ibuiii  of  the  above  inclofure  U  thi- 
village  of  Macarc3i  The  Chi'iftians  of  the  country 
have  a  tradition,  that  the  Iioty  family  lay  concejted' 
here  for  fome  time  when  they  came  into  Egypt  i  at»d 
add,  that  a  trL'c  opened  and  became  hoUow,  to  re- 
ceive and  flielter  them  from  (bme  bad  people.  The 
Coptis  even  pretend  to  fiicw  the  very  tree,  which  is 
hollow,  and  of  the  fort  called  Pharaoh's  fig,  1 
take  away  pieces  of  it  as  relics;  but  the  Romans 
that  the  tree  fell  down,  and  was  carried  away  by  t 
monks  of  the  convent  belonging  to  Jerufalem. 

The  city  of  Grand  Cairo  conlifts  at  prcfent  of  thn 
towns  or  cities,  a  mile  diftant  from  ea^h  other; 
19,  Old  Cairo,  Cairo  properly  To  called,  and  the  poi 
named  Bulac.  In  Old  Cairo  are  what  asc  commoi  ' 
termed  Jofeph's  granarie?.  Thefe  are  only  fqu; 
courts  enconipafled  by  walls  about  1 5  feet  high, 
chiefly  with  brick,  and  ftrengthcned  with  fcmicircuU^ 
buttrefles.  They  are  filled  with  com,  having  onl 
room  left  to  enter  at  the  door.  The  grain  Is  coverc 
over  with  matting,  and  the  door  ibuc  only  ' 
wooden  locks-,  but  the  inrpeflors  of  the  granatin; 
fix  their  fcal  upon  a  handful  of  clay,  which  they  ptu 
on  the  locks,  and  ufc  as  wax.  [Here  is  dcpofited  tl^ 
corn  that  is  paid  as  a  tax  to  the  grand  fignior.J  Ii  | 
brought  from  Upper  Egypt,  and  diftributed  out  t 
the  Ibldiers  as  pan  of  iheir  pay.  [This  granaryifl 
notwithftanding  its  name,  is  not  very  antic^ue :  ia>  I 
walls  artf  partly  of  the  time  of  the  Saracens.] 

At  tlic  north-end  of  OM  Cairo  is  a  magnificei^ 
plain  building,  for  raifing  the  water  of  the  Nile  0 
the  aifueduft.  This  ftruii^tiirc  is  faid  to  have  beci 
crcAcd  by  Campion,  the  Immediate  predecelTor  c 
die  laft  king  of  the  Mamelukes  :  it  Is  an  hexij 
each  die  U  between  80  and  90  feet  long,  and  a 


U8      POCOCKE  and  NORD£N*s 

as  many  in  height.  The  water  comes  into  a  rcfervoif 
below,  and  is  drawn  up  by  five  oxen,  which  turn  fa 
many  Perfian  wheels,  that  empty  the  water  into  the 
aqueduft. 

Oppofite  to  this  water- houfe  is  the  canal  that  con- 
veys the  water  to  Cairo,  which  feems  to  be  that  made 
by  Trajan.  Near  the  mouth  of  it,  they  annually 
perform  the  ceremony  of  opening  the  canal,  with 
grci::  rejoicings,  by  breaking  down  a  mound  when 
the  Nile  has  arifcn  to  a  certain  height. 

Old  Cairo  is  at  prcfcnt  reduced  to  a  very  fmall 
compafs,  it  not  being  above  two  miles  round :  it  is 
the  prrt  for  the  boats  that  come  from  Upper  Egypt; 
and  lomc  of  the  beys  have  houfes  there,  to  which  they 
retire  at  the  rifing  of  the  Nile.  The  Coptis  have 
twelve  churches  and  a  convent,  moftly  in  one  quarter 
of'  tlie  town ;  and  pretend  that  the  holy  family  was 
in  a  cave  in  the  church  dedicated  to  St.  Sergius.  'Th6 
RoniJn  catholics  have  an  hofpital  belongirtg  to  the 
fiithers  of  the  Holy  Land  •,  and  the  Jews  have  a  fy- 
nagogue,  faid  to  have  been  built  about  1 600  years 
ago,  in  the  manner  it  now  i:f,  v/hich  nearly  rcfemblcs 
our  churches.  There  are  here  alfo  about  half  a  dozen 
mofques,  with  their  minarets  •,  among  which,  that 
named  Amrah,  is  faid  to  have  been  a  church:  but 
what  is  moft  remarkable,  is  its  having  near  400  pil- 
lars, which,  with  their  capitals,  feem  to  have  been 
collected  from  feveral  antient  buildings. 

[At  half  a  league  to  the  fouth  of  old  Cairo  i$  the 
great  mofque  of  Atter-Eunaby,  fituatcd  on  a  point  of 
land  projccling  into  the  Nile.  For  this  mofcjuc  the 
Mahometans  have  a  great  veneration,  from  the  tradi- 
tion that  Omar  their  firll  califf,  going  to  the  place 
where  it  was  afterwards  founded  to  his  honour,  left 
the  print  of  his  foot  upon  a  piece  of  marble.  This 
edifice  has  nothing  extraordinary,  except  a  gallery  of 
antique  columns,  fo  ill  ranged,  tliat  frequently  tht 
capitals  turned  topfy-turvy  fcrve  as  pedeftals,  and 
the  pedeftals  are  employed  to  ferve  as  capitals.] 

From 


^        TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      149 

From  oid  Cairo  I  made  a  fhort  cxcurfion  to  ihe 
pleafini  iflf  of  Raoudah,  or  Roida,  which  is  oppofite 
to  it.  The  channel  of  the  Nile  between,  is  dry  when 
the  water  b  low.  This  illand  is  near  a  mile  long ; 
toward  ihe  north-end  is  the  village  of  Roida,  .ind  at 
the  fouth-end  is  the  Milcias,  or  houfe  in  which  is  the 
famous  pillar  for  mcifuring  the  Nile.  This  is  6xc^ 
in  3  deep  bafon  i  the  bottom  of  which  is  on  a  level 
with  the  bed  oi  the  river,  tiie  water  pafling  through 
tc.  The  pillar,  which  is  placed,  under  a  dome,  at^ 
crowned  with  a  Corinthian  capital,  is  divided  into 
mealures  for  obfervirig  ih:  rife  of  the  waters ;  and 
from  the  court  1l1.1l  k-ids  to  tlic  houfc,  is  a  delccnt 
to  the  Nile  by  fteps,  on  which  the  common  people 
believe  that  Molts  was  foiiJid,  after  he  h-»d  been  ex- 
pOJed  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  '  'M 

Half  a  mile  to  the  north  of  old  Cairo  is  CalTarp-  1 
line,  where  there  arc  gardt-ns  of  citrons,  oranges,  fe-'J 
mons  and  caHia  i  but  ic  is  moit  remarkable  for  a  co^^ 
vent  of  Derviics,  who  aBcCting  an  extraordinary  ianf- fl 
lity,  may  be  faid  to  hve  in  ihcir  mplque,  which  iijfM 
large  fquare  room,  covered  with  a  very  fine  dume.  '  I 
BuUcis  fituated  abuuc  u  mile  tartlier  lo  ilie  iiortb|,9 
and  is  near  two  n^ilcs  rouni.  This  being  the  port  iVf^ 
all  boats  chat  come  up  ihc  river  trom  all  tJie  pores  offa 
Delta,  it  has  a  culloin- houfe,  wi:h  many  warchDufirfcll 
And  k^nes  fvr  travellers  ;  but  it  is  remarkable  for  doNB 
thins  biu  its  line  bagnio.  ^  jfl 

The  city  of  New  Cairo,  which  is  ftrated  abgtic^$9 
mile  from  tlie  river,  extends  eatiward  near  two  mil^'V 
to  a  mountain,  and  is  about  leven  miles  rounj:  byt  I 
ic  is  &id  to  have  been  larmier  wiicn  it  wan  the  GCfltre  I 
of  trade  from  the  iufl  Indies.     It  was  then  vvalledt'l 
round;  but  only  part  of  the  wail,  with  tlie  caftly,  I 
and  feme  magnihccnt  g.ue»,  biiilt  by  the  MarQ:i)uk(S|  ■ 
arc  now  Handing.     Ttic-  cam),  cut  I'roin  the  Nile,    * 
runs  through  the  city  ;  but  it  is  only  to  be  fetii  t'loin 
■-  the  bacit  01  the  houfcs  built  on  its  banks ;  >ind  tliou^h 
^jbgUKf  .levcral  .tvi4ges  over  it«  y^c  b^ui^^i  beug  . 
^K  L  3  b.'UiJ 


JSP       POCOCKE  and  NORDEN's 

bullc  on  each  fide  of  them,  the  view  of  the  water  is 
even  there  intrrcepted  :  but  when  it  is  dry,  it  appears 
like  a  ftreet,  the  people  palTirig  along  it.  However, 
from  the  time  when  it  begins  to  dry,  thefmell  of  the 
mutl,  and  ftagnated  water,  becomes  very  ofFenfive. 

[One  of  the  moii  ftngular  cuftoms  obfcrved  at 
Cairo,  is  the  ceremonies  obferved  at  opening  this 
cansl.  ■yVhcn  the  Nile  begins  to  fwtll,  they  calt  up  a 
bank  of  earth  acrofs  the  end  of  the  ftreet  near  the 
river  ;  and  in  the  month  of  Auguft,  when  the  water 
is  arifen  to  a  proper  height:,  the  bafla,  attended  bf 
his  guards,  proceeds  on  iiorfeback  along  the  canal, 
and  coming  to  the  end  of  it  ftrikes  the  bank,  takes 
horfe,  and  riding  back,  leaves  fevcral  pcrfons  to  break 
it  down.  On  his  return  from  the  bank,  he  is  fol- 
lowed by  great  crouds  finging  and  ftriking  each  other 
with-cudgels :  the  water  at  length  flows  in,  accom- 
panied by  a  number  of  men  and  boys  fwimming, 
while  others  throw  one  another  into  it,  and  Ihew  a 
thoufand  idle  pranks.  Fire-works  are  difcharged, 
r.nd  al!  the  time  the  canal  is  filling,  it  is  covered  with 
boats  filled  A'ith  young  men  finging  and  playing  upon 
inftruments,  to  fliew  their  joy  for  the  fertility  pro- 
duced by  the  Nile] 

If  wc  form  an  iJca  of  feveral  fquarcs  about  the 
city,  from  a  quarter  to  three  quarters  of  a  mile  rounds 
that  receive  and  retain  ilic  water  of  the  Nile,  con- 
veyed to  thein  by  the  canal,  as  the  river  rifcs,  we 
fiiail  have  a  pretty  juft  notion  of  the  feveral  lakes, 
which,  during  the  greatcft  part  of  the  year,  ate  in 
the  city  :  when  nothing  can  be  imagined  more  beau- 
fiful.  They  are  furrounded  by  the  bcft  houlcs} 
and  in  the  fummer,  when  the  Nile  is  high,  arc 
covered  with  the  fine  boats  and  barges  of  all  the  per- 
fons  of  difiinftion,  who  fpcnd  the  evenings  with  their 
ladies  on  the  water.  Concerts  of  mufic,  I  am  told, 
are  never  wanting,  and  ibmetimes  fire-works  are 
added.  All  the  houfes  round  are  in  a  manner  itlu- 
fpj;]^te(l,  ^nd  the  windows  BJlcd  with  fpeitators.  This 
plea^ng 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.       15^ 

pleaiing  fcene  is  however  much  altered  when  the  wa- 
ters are  gone  off,  and  nothing  appears  buc  mud.  Yet 
this  is  foon  fucceedcd  by  the  agreeable  view  of  green 
cora,  and  afterwar-d  of  harveil,  in  the  midft  of  a 
great  city,  on  the  very  fpots  wherf  a  few  months  be- 
fore the  boats  were  failing. 

The  ftreets,  like  thole  of  all  the  Turkifli  cities, 
are  very  narrow.  The  widdl  extends  the  whole 
length  of  the  place;  but  would  only  be  confidered. 
in  Europe  as  a  lane :  and  the  others  are  fo  narrow, 
that  the  inhabitants  frequently  fpread  a  flight  ftuff 
acrofs  the  tops  of  their  houfes,  from  one  fide  to  the 
other,  to  defend  them  from  the  fun.  Moft  of  the 
ftreets,  or  at  leaft  each  end  of  every  diftrid,  is  (hue 
up  at  night  with  gates,  and  guarded  by  two  or  three 
janizaries,  fo  that  no  idle  people  can  lurk  about  them 
without  being  difcovered.  Several  ftreets  confift  only 
of  ftiops,  without  any  houfes,  and  are  locked  up  at 
night  when  the  traders  return  home ;  and  fliops  of 
the  fame  trade  are  generally  together. 

The  Turkifli  houfes  in  general,  efpccially  in  Cairo, 
make  a  difagreeable  appearance  -,  they  are  commonly 
built  round  a  court,  where  they  are  fcen  to  the  beft 
advantage :  nothing  but  ufe  is  confidered  in  the  fide 
next  the  ftreet ;  as  every  ornament  is  referved  for  the 
faloon  within.  Thus  being  built  below  of  ftone,  and 
above  with  a  fort  of  cage- work,  fometimes  filled  up 
with  unburnt  brick,  and  few  or  no  windows  toward 
the  ftreet ;  they  are  very  dilagrceablc  to  thofe  who 
have  obfervcd  tr.c  reguliirity  and  beauty  of  European 
cities.  I  went  to  fee  fonjc  of  thj  belc  houfes  in  Cairo, 
and  found  that  the  great  have  a  faloon  for  common 
ufe,  and  another  for  ftate ;  and  as  they  have  four 
wives,  each  has  a  faloon,  with  apartmeiits  that  have 
n.>  communication  v/itli  the  other  pares  of  the  houfe, 
except  the  common  entrance  for  the  lervants,  which 
13  kept  locked  ;  and  the  private  entrance,  the  key  of 
which  is  kept  by  the  maftcr.  A  machine,  that  turns 
jD9und  like  tliofe  ufcd  in  nunneries^  receives  any  thing 

L  4  thty 


152       POCOGKE  and  NORDEW* 

they  wane  to  take  in  or  deliver  out,  without  their  fec- 
iog  one  another. 

At  the  houfc  of  Ofman  bey,  there  is  a  Bne  laloon, 
vrith  a  lobby  before  it :  ihe  grand  room  is  an  oblong 
fquare,  with  an  octagon  marble  pillar  in  the  middle ; 
this  room  is  inlaid  on  two  fides,  about  eight  feet  high, 
wifh  p.innels  of  grey  irarble,  each  bordered  with 
mofaic  work  ;  but  the  end  at  which  one  enters,  and 
the  fide  where  are  the  windows,  are  not  fioiflied  in 
this  manner:  the  fopha  extends  all  round  the  room, 
furnilhtrd  with  the  richcrft  velvet  culhions,  and  the 
floor  is  covered  with  fine  carpets. 

I  alfi  vifited  a  much  more  antient  edifice,  faid  to 
have  been  built  by  fultan  Nafir  Iben  Calahoun,  or 
Calaun,  the  feventh  kini?  of  Kgypt,  of  the  race  oi 
the  Mamali'.kcf!,  who  lived  about  the  year  12791 
which  is  alfo  built  round  a  I'mall  court.  The  entrance 
to  the  grand  apartment  is  by  a  fine  old  door,  tbme- 
whac  in  the  Godiic  tafte.  It  has  a  magnificent  faloon 
in  the  figure  of  a  Gieck  crofs,  with  a  cupola  in  the 
middle,  and  is  wainfcotted  ten  feet  high  in  a  very 
coftly  manner :  Dund  at  top,  about  two  feet  deep, 
are  Arabic  inicriptiims ;  ilien  for  two  feet  more  arc 
works  of  mojlier  of  pearl  and  fine  marbles,  in  the 
finure  of  fmall  arches.  Below  this  the  wall  is  covered 
with  panns-ls,  feme  of  the  fincft  marbles,  and  others 
of  mother  of  pearl ;  all  the  pannels  are  furrounded 
with  a  border  of  niolaic  work  in  mother  of  pea^^ 
and  blue  fmali,  or  a  fort  pf  glafs  that  is  not  tranf- 
paient. 

In  and  about  the  city  arc  feveral  magnificent 
rrofqucs ;  but  thofe  of  fultan  HafTan,  near  the  foot 
cf  ihe  cjfcic-hiU,  exceeds  them  all  in  the  Iblidity 
V.J  [he  building,  and  in  its  grandeur  and  magnift- 
cence,  which  Itnke  the  beholder  in  a  furpriling  man- 
ner. It  ii  very  lofty,  and  of  an  oblong  fquare  6gur^ 
crowned  vith  a  cornice  all  round,  that  projcifts  8 
great  way,  and  is  adorned  after  tlie  Turkilh  manner, 
with  a  kind  of  grocefque  carving.    The  entrance  is 

inlaid 


^       TRAVELS  tlirwigh  EGYPT.        15J 

inUid  wich  feveral  kinds  of  mKble,  carved  as  at  xM 
top.  The  afccni  was  by  feveral  rteps  ;  but  theft  aH* 
brt^rn  down,  rnd  the  door  walled  up :  becaufe  in 
public  inlurredions  the  rebels  have  often  taken  (heltef 
there.  >;' 

To  the  norrh-ealt  of  the  town  is  a  fine  mofquc^ 
ailed  Cubb^-el-Azab  j  which  is  about  60  feet  fquawri 
with  a  bcautihil  dome  over  it,  raifcd  on  a  bafc  of  tS 
fides,  in  e;ich  of  which  h  a  window.  It  is  wainfcottcd 
round  with  all  the  nioft  beautiful  marbles,  among 
which  are  I'cveral  fine  flabs  of  red  and  green  por- 
phyry  :  the  borders  round  the  pannels  are  carved  and 
gilt ;  above  is  a  fort  of  frize,  covcrtd  with  fcntcnces 
cut  in  large  gilt  charafters,  called  (he  Couphe,  in 
which  they  here  antiently  writ  the  Arabic  language. 
The  walls  above  have  Arabic  infcriptions  in  leaerj 
of  gold,  and  the  whole  cujwla  is  p:itnieil  and  gilt  in 
the  fintft  manner.  All  over  the  mofque  arc  hung 
giafs  lamps  and  oftriches  eggs.  Adjoining  to  this 
idifux  are  l(:verat  apartments  built  for  the  priel^s,  and 
(bme  grand  ones  for  the  perfons  of  rank,  who  Ibmc- 
timts  relidc  here. 

The  calUe  of  Cairo  i*  fitnated  on  a  rocky  hill,  and 
is  faid  to  have  been  buih  bv  Saladin.  It  is  willed 
loimd,  and  is  of  very  difficilt  arcefs ;  but  it  \*.  To 
commardcd  by  a  hill  to  the  eaft,  as  to  be  of  nf» 
ftrcngth  fince  the  invention  of  cannon.  At  the  weft 
end  arc  the  remains  of  very  grand  ap-irtmcnts,  fonie 
of  ihcm  covered  with  domes,  and  adorned  with  pic- 
tures of  mofaic  work  :  but  this  pan  of  the  biiildin»ii 
now  only  ulcd  for  weaving,  embroidering,  and  pre- 
paring the  haniiings  and  coverings  they  annually  tend 
to  Mecca.  I  faw  ihcm  about  this  work  1  and  though 
they  think  it  a  protanwion  for  a  Chriftisn  fo  niach  as 
to  touch  thole  rich  damnfk?,  I  have  ventured  to  ap- 
proach them.  Above  this  is  a  higher  ground,  ntnr 
a  grand  laloon,  called  Jolcph's  Hall,  from  which 
there  is  a  moft  delightful  profjieft  of  the  cJc>',  ihe 
nlf.  and  aM  the  adjacent  country.  It  was  pro- 
~^^^  bably 


154       POCOCKE  and  NORDEITs 

bably  a  terrace  to  this  faloon,  which  is  now  open  on 
every  fide,  except  to  the  fouth,  and  is  adorned  with 
very  large  and  beautiful  pillars  of  red  granite,  (bme 
ot'  which  have  capitals  of  the  Corinthian  order,  others 
are  very  plain  j  ibme  are  only  marked  out  in  lines 
like  learcs,  and  many  of  them  are  only  plain  (tones, 
that  have  but  little  relemblance  to  capitab.  In  the  weft 
part  of  the  caftle  is  the  jail,  which  the  common  peo- 
ple will  have  to  be  the  prifon  in  which  Jofcfh  was 
confined.  About  the  middle  of  the  caQle  is  a  lar^ 
court,  on  the  fouth-lide  of  which -are  the  balia's 
apartments,  and  the  great  divan,  which  I  had  the 
pleafure  of  feeing  :  the  beys  afTemble  three  times  a 
wtek  under  the  kaia,  or  prime  minifter  of  the-baffa ; 
and  the  latter,  whenever  he  pleafes,  fits  in  a  room  be- 
hind,  that  has  a  communication  by  fome  lattice  win< 
dov/s.  A  rtninger  may  enter  with  the  conful's  Drago- 
man, or  interpreter-,  and  being  afterward  conducted 
to  the  balfa's  coftVc-room,  is  civilly  entertained  by 
h:B  people  with  fwcet-mcjts  and  cofEre.  At  a  fmall 
tJiftiince  \%  the  mint,  where  they  coin  their  gold, 
and  fmati  piece?  of  iron  walbed  over  with  filver. 
Thcfe  arc  callcv!  Medincs,  and  are  of  the  value  of 
three  f.irtl-.in,';s.  In  th^  calVle  is  alfo  a  well,  that  has 
been  much  a.imired  on  account  of  its  great  depth; 
it  bc'irif;  cut  through  the  lide  of  the  rock,  and  the 
Wjaier  b^-inj^  broufjht  up  by  fcveral  Perfian  wheels, 
turnC'l  by  ox--n,  and  placed  one  over  another.  This 
J3  cdk-sl  Joll-pli's  Weil,  not  from  the  patriarch  Jo- 
feph,  butl.o  !ia  j^^raiid  vizitr  of  that  name,  who  had 
ihc  circ  of  the  work  under  I'uhan  Mahomet,  about 
yjo  ycirs  2::(j.  !n  Ihcrr,  thiscatUe,  which  is  about 
a  niiie  in  cifcumiviencc,  relembk-s  a.  little  town ; 
but  the  jTrcatcil  par:  c:  it  is  in  a  very  rui(^s  con- 
dition. *  ■ 

To  thf  lbu:h  of  tl;e  cafile  is  a  fort  of  antrent  fub- 
uib:,  callid  CirafTi;  at  trie  entnnce  of  which  are 
Ibme  mj;;Lii;!Lent  tonib;,  covered  widi  domes,  laid 
-to  be  the  liionumencs  of  ibme  kiijgs  of  £gypt :  the 

people 


■        TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.       155 

people  fay  they  arc  the  califfs,  the  relations  of  Ma- 
homet, who  conquered  this  country  j  and  fo  great  a 
venciation  have  they  for  them,  that  they  oblige  the 
Chriftians  and  jews  who  pals  this  way,  to  dri'cend 
from  their  alTes  out  of  rcfpeft  to  tJietn, 

The  principal  part  of  the  inhabitants  Jeem  to  be 
dcfcended  from  the  Mamaluke  race.  There  are  alio 
{otrx  Greeks,  many  Jews,  and  a  few  Armenians.  Of 
the  Europeans,  there  arc  fettled  here  only  the  Englifh, 
French,  and  fome  Italians  from  Leghorn  and  Venice. 
When  any  of  the  EngHfli  happen  to  die  in  any  pare 
of  the  Levant,  where  there  is  no  Englifti  chaplain, 
they  arc  interred  with  the  Greeks,  and  according  to 
the  ceremonies  of  iheir  church.    ' 

The  European  merchants,  confidering  how  much 
ihey  are  confined,  live  agreeably  enough  among  them- 
iclvcs;  they  arc  generally  fociablewith  thofe  of  their 
own  nation,  and  m  fo  plenriful  a  country  pofTcfs  what- 
ever is  capablf  of  making  hfe  pafs  pleafanily.  They 
ipend  the  morning  in  buhnefs,  and  often  pals  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day  in  ihc  fields  and  gardens  to  the 
north  of  Cairo;  ilicrc  being  little  danger  wiijiin  a 
mile  of  the  city.  Soiiietimcs  the  whole  day  is  fpent 
in  divcrfions ;  and  as  great  part  of  their  affairs  is 
crtnfadcd  by  the  Jcwt,  ihey  have  a  relaxation  from 
bujinefs  both  on  the  Jewilh  and  the  ChriJlian  fabbath. 
When  the  J\i!c  has  overflowed  its  banks,  and  littic 
bufinefs  is  to  be  done,  they  retire  to  thetr  houfes  ac 
Old  Cairo  and  Gize,  where  they  pafs  their  time  as 
agreeably  as  the  ciiciimtUiices  of  the  place  will  a(H 
mic~ 

--  The  trade  of  Cairo  confiih  in  the  imponauon  of 
broad  cloths,  tin  and  lead,  and  the  exporEa:ion  of  col- 
A«f  lena,  llax,  and  fcveral  drugs  moftly  brought 
from  I'crfia.  The  natives  alfo  import  raw  filk  from 
.^Ga,  whiUf  they'  chiefly  manuta^hirfi  into  jatiini 
snd  £lks,  in  imitation  luf  iholc  of  India ;  and  iti 
fame  places  the)-  make  a  coarlc  kind  of  linen.  Ru- 
^it,  of  the  growth  of  thb  couotry,  is  alfo  made  here  i 

ba 


156       FOCOCKE  and  N0RO£N's 

but  it  is  neither  cheap  nor  fine :  rhere  is,  however,  a 
very  iine  fort  made  for  the  ufe  a£  the  grand  fignior ; 
but  it  is  very  de^r,  and  not  commonly  to  be  mec 
with  for  fate.  Furniture  tor  horfes,  and  lattices  tor 
windows,  of  bral's,  iron,  and  turned  wood,  are  nude 
here  in  great  perfection.  In  the  province  of  Delta 
and  «bouc  IVlanaufieh,  tine  matting  is  made  of  dyed 
rufhes ;  and  from  thence  fcnt  not  only  all  over  the 
Turkifh  empire,  but'to  molt  parts  of  Europe.  . 

Amidll  the  curiodtics  oblervable  at  Cairo,  that  of 
the  hatching  of  chicif.ens  is  none  of  the  leaft.  This 
laft  is  performed  by  heating  ovens  of  fo  temperate  a 
heat  as  to  imitate  che  natural  warmth  of  the  hen,  and 
putting  about  Sooo  eggs  in  an  oven,  the  chickens 
are  produced  in  22  days.  This  employment  is  con- 
tinued four  months,  during  which  Ibme  hundred 
thoufand  chickens  are  hatched  in  this  manner  and 
Ibid.  If  it  happens  to  thunder,  great  numbers  of 
the  chickens  milcarry :  beflde,  the  chickens  thus 
hatched  often  want  a  claw,  a  rump,  or  are  Ibmc  other 
way  inipcrfe6t.  I  have  been  informed  that  only  the 
people  of  one  village  arc  mailers  of  the  art,  and  that 
at  the  proper  time  of  the  year  they  fpread  themfelres 
all  over  Egypt  *. 

There  are  few  arts  in  any  perfcftion  higher  up  the 
Nile,  or  indeed  in  any  other  parts  of  Egypt :  this, 
with  the  convenience  of  water  carriage,  makes  Cairo 
a  place  of  great  trade ;  and  as  little  credit  is  given  1^ 
the  Turks,  there  is  generally  a  va&  conflux  of  people 
at  this  city. 

The  monuments  near  Cairo  moft  worthy  of  the 
curiolity  of  a  traveller  are  the  pyramids  fy  which  have 

*  The  great  duke  of  Floreacc  Ttnt  for  perfon*  employed  in  thfii 

prni.lucing  chicki.'ns.  «tio  aftually  performed  ihi  fame  art  with  fuc- 
Cl-'»  ill  hi>  dominion:- :  the  la'.e  ce!cliraie.1  '.A.  RL-niiiniir,  after  many 
c>i[!(.itrrcriij,  f'und  it  praAicabte  in  France,  and  has  Ihewn  tfae 
naDnerpf  lining  it  in  a  work  on  that  fabjeft. 

t  'J'his  account  of  the  pyramic*  n  chicily  taken  from  the  obCa- 
vatioiii  of  the  ingenious  Mr.  Noiden  i  with  which  »e  have  inter- 
tn.ki;.t  u^K'  of  the  learned  Dt.  t*ococke, 

beeq 


W       TRAVELS,  through  EGYPT.       isf 

been  formeriy  ranked  among  the  feven  wonders  otf  J 
ihe  world,  and  ftill  demand  our  admiraiion.  It  if  I 
remarkable  that  thclc  kind  of  monuments  arc  i*|J 
where  to  be  found  but  in  Egypt.  Indeed  there  hrl 
one  at  Rome,  which  fcrvcs  for  a  tomb  co  C,  Ceflufj^ 
but  it  is  no  more  than  a  mere  imitation,  and  is  (av 
paffcd  in  dze  by  the  Icaft  of  thole  in  Egypt.  TTiefc 
are  fituatcd  upon  the  rock,  at  the  fooc  of  the  high 
mountains  that  accompany  the  Nile  in  its  courfe,  and 
fcparaie  Egypt  and  Lybia.  They  have  been  all 
raifed  as  fepulchres  i  but  their  architcfture,  as  well 
on  the  infidc  as  without,  is  extremely  different,  with 
refpcft  to  dldribution,  maccriais,  ;ind  grandeun 
Some  arc  open.  Others  ruined,  and  mnft  of  them  are 
clofcd ;  but  there  are  none  diat  have  not  been 
damaged.  The  prodigious  quantity  of  materials  ufcd 
in  conOrufting  them,  renders  ir  impoffiblc  that  they 
fliould  be  all  buik  at  the  fame  timei  and  thofe  that 
have  been  the  laft  ert'fted,  greatly  furpafs  the  firft  in 
grandeur  and  magnificence.  1-hey  are  the  works  of 
the  remoteft  antiquity,  and  even  moree.irly  than  the 
limes  of  the  moll  ancient  hill'oriani  whole  writings 
have  been  tranfmitted  to  us  :  the  very  epochs  of  their 
beginning  was  loft  at  the  time  when  rhc  tirft  Greek 
phiioinphers  travelled  into  ^ypt.  It  •.%  not  impro- 
bable that  the  invention  of  pyramids  was  owing  rff 
the  ignorance  of  the  people,  in  having  no  other 
method  of  covering  a  great  circutntcrencc,  before  the 
art  of  arching  and  employing  columns  to  fupport  a 
roof  were  invented.  It  is  indeej  a  mortifying  con- 
fidcration,  that  the  mod  durable  works  in  architeftun; 
have  been  owing  to  ignorance :  thus  tlic  famous 
aquedufls  of  the  ancient*,  tlw  remains  of  which  arc 
the  wonder  of  the  prclent  times,  were  owing  to  their 
tioc  knowing  that  water  wuuld  rife  up  nearly  to  the 
fame  height  as  that  fi^m  which  it  tiilU. 

The  common  people  of  Egypt  have  n  tradition, 
that  there  were  anciently  giants  in  rhjt  country,  w,ho 
"•'"■:d,    without  much  UitHculiy,  the  pyramids,    the 

volt 


^d 


i5»       POCOCKE  and  NORDEN^s 

raft  palaces  and  the  temples^  whofe  remains  are  at 
prefcnt  the  obje6ts  of  our  admiration.  But  this  ridi- 
culous opinion  is  confuted  by  obfcrving,  that  had 
this  been  the  cafe,  the  entrances  of  the  caves,  from 
whence  they  have  drawn  ftoncs  for  thefc  purpoles, 
would  have  been  lai^er  than  they  are  :  that  the  gates 
of  the  buildings,  which  ftill  fubfift,  would  have  had 
more  height  and  breadth  ;  that  the  paflagcs  of  the 
pyramids,  at  prefcnt  fo  narrow  that  fcarcely  a  man  of 
our  times  can  drag  himlelf  along  lying  on  his  belly, 
would  have  been  by  no  means  proper  tor  men  of  fuch 
a  ftature ;  and  that  the  cofEn  in  the  largeft  and  Uft 
pyramid  is  an  inconteftable  proof  of  the  falfity  of  all 
fuch  extravagant  ideas,  lince  it  determines  the  fize  of 
the  prince's  body  for  whom  the  pyramid  was  built} 
and  the  paffages  ftiew,  that  the  workmen  were  not  of 
a  larger  fize  than  the  prince,  fince  the  entrance  and 
the  egrefs  fcarcely  give  fufficient  room  for  men  of  the 
common  ftacure. 

The  principal  pyramids  are  at  the  fouth-eaft  of 
Gize,  a  village  three  hours  voyage  op  the  Nile  from 
Cairo,  and  fituatcd  on  the  Weftcrn  ftiore.  As  it  is 
believed  that  the  city  of  Memphis  was  near  this  place, 
they  are  commonly  called  the  pyramids  of  Mem- 
phis *.  On  your  arrival  there  you  find  four  of  the 
pyramids  that  deferve  the '  greateft  attention  of  the 
curious  ;  for  though  there  are  feven  or  eight  othen  in 
the  neighbourhood,  they  are  not  to  be  compared  with 

•  It  may  be  thought  very  cYtraorc'nary  that  the  fituaiian  of 
^Icmphis,  wbidi  wns  la  coiiriJccable  a  cicy,  and  fur  lb  long  a  time 
liie  capit:;!  01  tgypr,  (houlJ  not  nniv  be  kno*n:  hut  as  manycf 
the  ir.'.teiuis  nrinhl  be  cnrried  to  '\le:(3nd(ii.  Cairo,  and  other 
places  nficrward  built  near  it.  ih:  city  was  in  all  pribabHity  almoft 
levelled  ;  rnd  the  Nile  ove.-flosving  [he  tu'ni,  it  maveafily  be  con- 
ccivc.l  liial  its  rcnnins  have  been  lorg  co'-ered  over,  as  if  no  fuch 
pl.icerad  cvcriwcn.  Tlic  continual  accietions  of  mud  thai  brnnght 
by  till-  Nil'j  I'lLli  rvidenily,  in  a  coitrfe  cf  time,  have  altered  and 
raift-d  the  fu-liic  of  thir  country  fo  fur  as  Oi-crllowed  ;  and  this  is 
one  rc.foii  uhy  ii-w  of  the  columns  lemaiiiii^jj;  thecc,  ate  to  be  feca 

the 


^^     TRAV'ELS  through  EGYPT.       15$ 

tTie  former,  efpecially  as  they  ha^-e  been  almoft  ct|]fJl 
tirely  ruined.  The  four  principal  are  nearly  upoiu 
the  fame  diagonal  line,  and  about  400  paces  diltaMgl 
from  each  oiher.  Their  four  fates  exactly  corrcJpoiidn 
to  the  four  cardinal  points,  the  north,  the  fouth,  rul 
eaft,  and  the  weft.  The  two  moft  northerly  are  tltfii 
greaceft,  and  have  500  feet  perpendicular  liaghcM 
and  according  to  Mr.  Greaves,  who  nieafured  thin 
bottom  of  the  firft,  it  is  exaftly  693  EngliQi  fe^A 
fquare ;  and  therefore  covers  fumething  more  th^U 
eleven  acres :  the  inclined  plane  is  equal  to  the  ba^3 
and  the  angles  and  bafe  form  an  equilateral  triangl^J 
The  number  of  fteps  has  been  very  difTcrentlfa 
related;  but  they  are  between  207  and  212.  TheftJ 
fteps  are  from  two  feet  and  half  to  four  fi;et  higli,  anjfl 
are  broad  in  proportion  to  their  height.  But  rhoug^J 
the  two  others  are  much  lefs,  they  have  fonie  partic^j-jB 
larities  tlut  caufe  them  to  be  examined  and  admircdj3 
It  appears  that  the  rock  at  the  foot  of  che  mountaiujj 
not  being  every  where  level,  has  been  fmootlieJ  by  the! 
chificl.  This  rocky  plain  is  about  80  feet  pcrpcnd^jj 
cutar  above  the  level  of  tlie  ground  that  is  alwajo 
overflowed  by  the  Nile,  and  is  a  DanilTi  league  IJl 
circomfcrencc.  Notwithftanding  its  being  a  coq^ 
tinual  rock,  it  is  almott  covered  with  a  ilymg  fin^jH 
brought  thither  by  tlie  wind  from  the  adjacciK  higSl 
mountains.  In  this  fand  is  a  great  number  of  HieljU 
andprtri8ed  oyllers;  a  tiling  the  more  furprizing,  i^M 
this  plain  is  never  overflowed  by  the  Nik-,  which  b(Sj 
fide  has  not  ilirougliout  its  whole  courlc  any  nicU-fiflbJ 
In  this  qu.irter  we  alfo  find  rhofc  beautiful  flint  Itone&H 
which,  on  account  of  the  fingiilariry  of  their  cftloiirsn| 
are  much  more  cfleemed  tlian  agate,  and  of  whi(rj|3 
fnuff-boxcs  and  handles    for  knives   are  made  ^iM 

I     ^""-  ■   '  ^ 

A  pyramid  is  the  moft  folid  figure  that  con  ^» 

given  to  any  building.    There  is  no  w.iy  Eo'riitii  Jclfl 

but  b)-  beginning  at  inc  top  ;  fat  it  rcfts  upon  :i  haSM 

rtoo  firm  to  be  auackcd  in  that  p.'ur,  an-.f  wdo-viH*^ 


i6o       POCOCKE   and  NORDEN's 

v^'ould  undertake  it  would  find  as  much  difficulty  aid 
there  was  to  raife  it. 

The  mod  norcIuTn  of  tlicP  great  pyramids  is  the 
only  one  that  is  oycn  •,  nnd  as  wc  w.cqi  with  that  firft, 
I  fliail  begin  my  dcicrij-tion  with  it.     It  is  ncceffarjr  to 
be  very  near  it,  in  orJcr  to  form  a  juft  idea  of  the 
extent  of  its  e  ^.ormous  bulk.     The  external  part  is 
chiefly  built  of  great  fquare  llones  cut  from  the  rock 
■which  extends  along  the  Nile,  whereto  this  day  we 
fee  the  caves   from  whence  they  have  been  taken. 
The  fize  of  thefe  ftones  is  not  equal ;  but  they  have 
all  the  figure  of  a  prifm,  that  they  may  lie  perfc6lijr 
clofe  together.      It  might  be  imagined   that   each 
range  fliould  form  an  even  ftcp  round  the  pyramid: 
but  the  architect  has  only  obfcrved  the  pyramidical 
figure,  without  troubling  himfelf  about  the  regularity 
of  the  (leps  •,  and  it  appears  tliat  tliis  inequality  of 
the   rton'sTs,    which  differ  four,    five,  and  even   ten 
inches,  is  t!ic  rCalbn  wi^.y  fo  many  travellers,  who  have 
counted  the  degrees  of  the  pyramids,  always  differ 
with  regard   to  th.*  number.     Tiielc:  kind  of  fteps 
were  not  (k'figned  for  mouniing  or  dcicending;  and 
ife'j^larity  was  fought  no  larcher  than  was  neceffary 
for  the  gen'-rai  Hiaj^e  of  tlic  pyramid,  and  for  the 
facility  of  tlic  wor!:.     Wc  fi::d  tliat  their  external 
lays  arc  oiily  compn^lcvl  by  tlie  weight  of  the  ftones, 
without  mortar,  wiili'ju:  lead,  and  wiihout  cramps 
of  any  metal:  but  in  tlie  body  of  the  pyramid  they 
have  been  obliged   to  ufe  a  mortar  mixed  of  lime, 
earth,  :Tnd  clay.     Tliis  plainly  appears  at  the  entrance 
of  the  fccond  paflage  of  the  firll  pyramid,  which  has 
been  opened  by  force.     At  its  foi:r  corners  it  is  eafily 
perceived,  that  the  l-.r.VLr  fconcs  are  placed  on  thii 
ro;k   without   any  o:!ier  foundation :    but    beyond 
tliem,  quiie  to  the  middle  of  each  face,  the  wind 
has  formed  a  Hope  of  1  md,  whicii  on  the  north  fide 
riles  fo  high,  that  it  a-tords  a  commodious  alcent  quite 
to  the  entrance  of  ih;:  pyramid,  v/hich  is  about  48 
feet  hiii,h. 

Cn 
8 


i 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT. 

^  On  cetting  up  to  the  entrance  you  difcharge  a  piftol 
lb  frighten  away  the  bats,  after  which  two  Arabs, 
i#hOm  you  are  obliged  to  have  for  your  attcnciantv, 
enter,  and  remove  the  fand,  with  which  the  p.trtage 
ii  almod  flopped  up. '  After  thefe  prccaiitions,  you 
Ilrip  yourfelf  lo  your  Ihirt,  on  account  of  the  exceflive 
heat  conftantly  felt  in  the  pyramids :  in  this  condition 
you  enter  the  paflage,  every  one  of  the  company 
having  a  wax  candk  in  his  hand  ;  for  the  torches  are 
not  lighted  till  you  are  in  the  chambers,  for  frarof 
caiffing  too  much  fmoke.  Being  arrived  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  gailery  where  the  paflage  is  forced,  you 
find  an  opening  barely  a  foot  and  a  half  in  height^ 
and  two  feet  in  breadth ;  yet  through  this  hole  you 
are  obliged  to  pafs.  The  traveller,  inflcad  of  creep- 
ing, commonly  lays  hlmfelf  down,  and  the  two 
Arabs,  that  go  before,  take  one  of  his  legs,  and 
thus  drag  him  through  over  the  fand  and  duft. 

On  having  paOed  this  ftrcighr,  which  is  luckily 
M  more  than  two  ells  long,  you  find  a  large  place, 
where  you  commonly  take  Ibme  refrefhments -,  anj 
this  gives  coUrage  for  penetmiing  into  the  fccond 
gallery. 

It  is  here  proper  to  obferve,  that  all  thcfc  pafTages, 
txcept  the  fourth,  ire  nearly  of  the  fame  fize,  that  is, 
three  feet  and  a  half  fonarc,  and  lined  on  the  four 
fides  by  great  ftones  ot  white  marble,  Jo  polifhed, 
that  this,  with  the  acclivity  of  the  way,  would  render 
them  impaffable,  were  it  not  for  tittle  holes  cut  for 
fcfting  the  feet  i^i.  It  cofts  a  great  deal  of  trouble  to 
advance  forwardy  and  if  you  make  a  falle  ftep,  you 
will  Aide  backward  to  the  place  from  Whence  you  feb  ' 
out:  however,  by  obfcrving thefe  holes,  you  proceed 
coinmodiouny  enough,  though  always  ftooping  to  the  I 
end  of  the  fecotKl  paflage,  where  is  a  rcitin^  phce^  * 
On  the  right  hand  tlwrc  is  an  opening  into  a  kind 
of  well,  wherein  nothing  is  to  be  found  but  bats  v 
md  you  defcend  not  by  tn«ans  of  any  Acps,  hut  by -a 
jjVwl.  VI.  M  perpcn- 


i6z       POCOCKE  and  NORDEm 

perpendicular  pipe,  as  chimney-fweepeFs  defcciui  a 
^  chimney. 

At  die  extremity  of  this  refting-place  begins  the 
third  gallery,  leading  to  the  inferior  chamber.  It 
funs  horizontally  in  a  (traight  line.  Before  the  chamber 
are  fome  Hones,  with  which  the  way  is  embarraflcd, 
but  with  fome  trouble  you  furmount  that  difficulty ; 
and  tind  that  the  infidc  of  the  chamber  is  alfo  covered 
with  Hones.  This  chamber  has  a  fliarp-nifed  vault, 
and  is  throughout  coated  with  granite,  once  perfc^Uy 
polilhed,  but  at  .prefent  extremely  black  with  the 
fmoke  of  the  torches  ufcd  in  vifiting  it.  Whoever 
would  examine  the  way  through  which  they  have 
drawn  the  (lones  into  this  room,  muft  expofe  himfelf 
to  the  fame  ceremony  as  is  pradifed  in  palling  frooi 
the  Brft  gallery  to  the  fecond ;  but  few  are  willing 
to  uke  that  trouble,  as  it  is  known  that  it  does  doc 
reach  far,  and  there  b  nothing  to  be  feen  in  ic  but  t 
niche. 

Having  viQted  the  lower  chamber,  you  return  to 
the  refting  place,  and  afcend  upward  by  faAemng 
your  feet  as  before,  till  coming  to  the  end  of  the. 
fourth  gallery  you  meet  with  a  little  platform.  You 
mult  auerward  begin  to  climb  again  ;  but  foon  finding 
a  new  opening,  where  you  may  Hand  upright,  you 
contemplate  a  Ibrt  of  little  room,  which  is  at  firjjt  no 
more  than  a  palm's  breadth  larger  than  the  galleries, 
but  enlarges  itielf  afterward  on  both  fides ;  and  ae 
length,  by  ftooping  for  the  laft  time,  you  pafs  the 
remainder  of  the  fifth  gallery,  that  leads  in  a  hwi- 
zontal  line  to  the  upper  chamber,  which,  like  the 
former,  is  coated  and  covered  with  great  ftones  of 
granite.  On  the  left  fide  is  a  coffin  of.  granite,  rf 
the  figure  of  a  parallelopipcd,  without  any  other  orna- 
ment. It  is  cxireamly  well  hollowed,  and  on  being 
Itruck  wicha  key,  founds  like  a  bell.  Nearthiscoffin 
you  pi  rceive  a  very  deep  hole,  made  fince  the  build- 
ing of  the  pyramid  was  finilhed.    It  is  probable  that 

tbeie 


W        TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.       163 

there  was  a  cavity  underneath  -,  for  it  looks  as  if  the 
pavement  had  funk  in.  In  this  chamber  are  alfo  two 
little  palTages,  which  are  clioakcd  up  with  ftonct 
thrown  in  by  the  curious  to  know  their  depth. 

While  in  this  room  people  commonly  dilcharge  a' I 
pillol,  which  makes  a  noife  rcfembling  thuiidcr.  YoU 
then  return  in  the  lame  manner  yuu  cime,    and  with 
the  fame  difficulty,  on  account  of  the  {tones  and  fand 
with  which  the  entrance  is  ernbarrjITed. 

As  foon  as  you  are  out  of  the  pyramid  you  drefi»' 
wrap  yourfelf  up  warm,  and  drink  a  glafs  of  fome 
ftrong    liquor  to  prefcrve  yourfelf  from  a  pleorifjr, 
occafioned  by  a  fudden  change  from  an  cxtreamly  hot 
to  a  temperate  air.     At  length  having  regained  your 
natural  heat,  you  mount  up  to  the  top  of  the  pyra- 
mid, in  order  to  enjoy  a  delightful  profpcdt  of  the 
country  around  it.     The  method  of  afcending  is  by 
the  angle  to  the  north-caft ;  and  when  the  fteps  are 
high,    or  one    ftep  entirely    broke  away,    you  are  i 
obliged  CO  look  for  a  convenient  place,  where  the  Heps  | 
are  entire,  or  a  high  (lep  is  mouldered  away  (o  as  to 
make  the  afccnt  more  eafy.    On  the  top  you  perceive, 
as  well  as  at  the  entrance  and  in  the  chambers,  the 
names  of  abundance  of  people  who  have  at  different 
times  vifitcd  this  pyramid,  and  were  wiUingto  tranfniiic  ■ 
the  memory  of  their  having  been  there,  to  pofterity,! 
Herodotus  fuppofcs  that  this  pyramid  was   built  b 
Cheops  king  ot  Egypt. 

Having  well  confidered  this  firft  pyramid,  yoitl 
take  leave  of  it,  and  approach  the  fecond,  which  oie  | 
your  coming  near  it  appears  even  higher  than  thtt  T 
firl!,  but  this  is  owing  to  its  {landing  on  a  morftj 
elevated  foundation  j  for  in  other  relpeits  they  arc  1 
both  of  the  fa^ic  fizc.  The  only  difference  is,  thatj 
the  fecond  is  fi>  well  clofed,  that  you  fee  not  the  Icaflfl 
mark  which  fhe-^vs  that  it  has  been  opened,  and  that  1 
its  fummit  is  cuj:ed  on  the  fcur  fides  with  granite  lb  J 
well  joined  and  polifhed,  that  the  boldeft  man  would 
itteaipt  t'j  go  up  it. 

M  2  Oq 


rf+        POCOCKE  and  NORDEN% 

On  the  caftcrn  fide  you  fee  the  ruins  of  a  temple, 
the  ftoncs  of  which  arc  of  a  prodigious  fizc,  they 
being  fix  fcst  broad  and  deep,  and  moil  of  them  i^ 
or  1  7  l\et  long,  and  fome  of  them  22  ■,  the  whole 
building  tiemg  180  feet  in  front,  and  160  in  depth. 
Then  dcfcending  infvrfiblj'  you  arrive  at  the  fphynx, 
whofr  enormous  bulk  atira^s  your  admiration  :  but 
it  b  fcarcir  poiTibie  to  avoid  feeling  fome  indignation 
at  tlicfc  who  have  ftrangcly  disfigured  its  nofe.  This 
fphyfix  is  cut  out  of  the  foltd  rock  -,  and  what  has 
been  thought  by  fome  to  be  joinings  of  the  flones, 
are  oiHy  veins  in  the  iT>ck.  This  extraordinary  mo- 
nument is  faid  to  have  been  the  fepulchre  of  Amafis. 
It  is  about  27  feet  high.  The  lower  part  of  the  neck, 
or  beginning  nf  the  breaft,  is  35  feec  wide,  and  it  is 
about  1 13  feet  from  the  forepart  of  the  neck,  to  the 
rati.  Buc  tlic  fand  is  rifen  up  in  fuch  a  manner,  that 
the  top  of  the  back  is  onlyTcen. 

The  third  pyramid  is  not  fo  high  as  the  two  former 
by  100  ftei ;  but  in  other  refpcdta  it  refcmbles  them. 
)i  is  clofed  like  the  fccond,  and  is  without  any  coating. 
On  the  eafl:  (ide  of  this  [lyramid  was  alfo  a  temple, 
which  is  more  diftinguiOiable  in  its  ruins  than  the 
other :  the  ftones  whtrreof  it  was  compofed  are  like- 
■mfe  of  a  prodigious  fize.- 

The  fourth  pyramid  is  an  100  feet  Icfs  than  the 
third.  It  is  without  coating,  is  clofed,  and  refcmbles 
the  others  •,  but  has  no  temple.  It  has,  however,  009 
fmgularity,  which  is,  that  its  fummit  is  terminated  by 
a  fmglc  great  ttone,  that  feems  to  have  ferved  as  a. 
pedeftal.  It  is  befidc  fituarcd  out  of  die  liae  of  thcf 
others,  being  a  little  more  to  the  weft. 

Thefe  four  great  pyramids  are  furrounded  by  a  num- 
ber tlut  arc  fmallcr,  and  which  have  for  the  moft  pare 
been  opened;  and  two  of  them  arc  in  fuch  ruins  tbaC 
one  cannot  even  difccin  the  chamber. 

[If  yoii  want  any  othtr  fubjcft  to  fatisfy  your  curi- 
ofiiy,  you  need  only  approach  two  antique  bridges^ 
raikd  on  a  plain  annually  overflowed  by  the  NUe,  at 

aboui 


TRAVEt^S  througli  EGYPT.       165 

about  half  a  league  to  the  eallward  of  the  firft  pyra- 
mid, and  the  fame  dillance  from  the  moumains. 
The  firlt  of  th^lc  britlgcs  extends  north  and  Ibu:h, 
and  the  other  eaft  and  weft.  Being  fituated  in  a  track 
of  country  not  more  expofcd  to  the  waters  than  the 
Other  plains  it  is  impollible  to  conceive  the  rcafon  of 
their  foundation :  but  their  fabric,  and  the  infcrip- 
tions  we  find  on  them,  ihew  that  they  were  built  by 
the  Saracens.  That  which  extends  trom  the  nonh  to 
the  fouth  has  10  arches  ;  it  is  241  fete  in  length,  and 
ao  fcet  4  inches  in  breadth.  They  are  bu;lt  with 
large  pieces  of  free  ftone,  and  are  raifed  2  2  fcet  above 
the  horizon.] 

Some  time  after  I  went  to  vifii  the  pyramids  of 
Saccara,  which  are  not  10  miles  diftantfrom  thofc  of 
Gizc.  On  my  arrival  at  Saccara,  which  is  a  poor 
mean  village  ac  the  foot  of  a  iiill,  having  letrxrs  of 
recommendation,  I  went  to  the  houlc  of  the  Iheifc, 
who,  according  to  curtam,  fct  his  provifions  beibit 
me,  and  promifed,  after  being  at^thc  mofque  at  noon, 
it  being  then  Friday,  to  accompany  me  to  ihe  pyra- 
mids that  were  near,  which  he  accordingly  did:  and 
that  day  and  the  two  following  i  made  my  olaierva- 
don:  with  the  more  exaftnefs,  as  few  pedbn^  have 
defciibcd  any  thing  particular  here  except  the  cata- 
4wnb3.  Thefe  pyramids  extend  from  north  to  fouth, 
•nd  are  fituatcd  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  in  a 
plain,  i\\ii  fcems  as  if  nature  had  contrived  it  for  that 
purpoTe )  it  not  only  being  of  great  extent,  but  fo 
nigh,  that  it  is  never  overflowed  by  the  Nile  1  and  it 
appears  that  the  ancient  city  of  Memphis  extended 
•itnoft  to  this  place. 

Otw  o(  thefe  pyramids  rifiog  above  the  reft,  is 
caUed  ll-I1enm-Elkohfre-EI-Baneb,  or  7be  Grt£S  Py~ 
ramid  te  th  Sertb.  A^  there  -are  hftapi  of'  (tones 
arouaJ  it  that  have*W(en  off",  and  I  hid  no"  iTiftii>- 
4ncnta  torjkr.ihelcwel,  I  wst  obligtd  to  meaiarc  ttu: 
"{ti-riQiid  at  r  «)ift;ance<  by  bcgin^irtg  oppofite.  10  the 
aagles,  and  in  tJiis  manner  found  the  nurth  fidf -tohc 
"^  M.3  710 


1 


t66       FOCOCKE  andNORDEN^ 

710  feet,  and  the  eaft  fide  690.  The  perpendictilar 
height  is  345  feec.  and  on  che  u^  the  noixb  fide  is 
20  teei,  and  the  call  fide  only  15.  There  «re  156 
Iteps,  each  fr  <m  2  to  ^  feet  high.  This  pynunid  is 
buili  of  ihc  fame  kind  of  frec-ftone  as  the  others ; 
but  was  cafcd  with  a  fine  hard  ftone,  which  in  feveral 
parts  is  Itill  remaining,  though  a  great  deal  is  fiUlen 
down.  On  the  noriji  fide,  about  one  third  of  the 
■way  up,  is  an  entrance  3  feet  5  inchfs  wide,  and  4 
feet  2  inches  deep.  The  (tones  within  are  of  the 
height  and  breadth  of  the  entrance,  and  about  5  feet 
long.  \Vc  entered  this  pajlagc,  which  is  ftcep,  and 
bas  holes  cut  as  refis  for  the  feet ;  but  it  was  with 
great  difficulty  we  made  our  way  for  the  laft  25  feet, 
the  paflage  being  almoft  filled  up  with  land.     Having 

{)afled  through,  we  entered  a  room  22  feet  and  a  half 
ong,  and  11  feet  10  inches  broad.  At  the  height 
of  10  feet  6  inches  a  tier  of  ftones  projeAed  on  each 
£de  5  Inches  inward  -,  and  in  the  fame  manner  is  tias 
projected  one  further  than  another,  nil  they  meet  at 
the  top.  To  the  weft  of  this  room  is  fuch  another  ^ 
and  at  the  farther  end  of  both,  in  the  middle  of  the 
fifth  and  fixth  tiers  of  ftone,  is  a  door,  each  of  which 
leads  to  a  fmall  room,  as  I  was  informed  by  a  gentle- 
man who  contrived  a  ladder  in  order  to  get  up  to  it. 
Thefe  rooms  are  of  a  fmooth  white  ftone,  very  larger 
there  being  only  7  ftones  in  length,  and  3  or  4  io 
width. 

About  a  mile  to  the  fouth-^aft  is  another  great  py- 
ramid, called  the  Great  Pyramid  to  the  South,  which 
is  about  600  feet  I'quare  at  the  bottooi.  It  is  very  re- 
markable that  it  feems  to  incline  with  a  greater  angk 
from  the  height  of  280  feet  than  it  does  below.  It 
appears ,  to  have  been  cafcd  all  the  way  up,  and  ii 
built  of  very  good  hewn  ftone  even  within,  as  I 
obferved  where  the  outer  furface  is  in  fomc.  places 
broke  away  :  for  it  is  ruined  in  many  parts  ^  but  not 
fo  as  to  render  it  polfible  fof  any  pcrlbn  to  (get  to 
the  top. 

Oil 


■^  TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.       167 

On  a  lower  ground  nearer  to  the  caft  edge  of  the 
mountain,  and  about  two  miles  to  the  eaft  of  the  laft 
great  pyramid,  is  one  built  of  unburnt  brick,  which 
leeiBs  to  be  made  of  the  mud  brought  from  the  Nile  ■, 
jc  being  of  a  fandy  black  earth,  with  fbme  pebbies 
and  fliells  in  it ;  and  mixed  up  with  chopped  fba«', 
in  order  to  bind  the  clay  together;  as  unbumi  bricks 
arc  now  made  in  Egypt,  and  many  other  parts  of  the 
Eaft.  This  pyramid  is  much  crumbled  and  ruined. 
On  nieafuring  it  I  found  it  to  be  1 57  feet  on  the  north 
tide,  and  210  on  the  well-,  ii  being  much  broke 
away  on  the  eaft  and  weft  fides,  h  is  150  feet  high, 
and  at  the  top  mealurcd  43  feet  by  35.  By  vha:  i 
could  judge  from  its  prefent  ftate,  I  concluded  that  it 
was  built  with  5  degrees,  each  being  10  feet  brood 
and  30  deep  ;  but  the  afcent  to  it  is  eal'y,  as  the  bncks 
are  crumbled  away. 

The  other  pyramids  are  of  ftone,  and  of  different 
fizes  ;  alt  in  a  ruinous  condition,  and  may  amount  in 
ihe  whole  to  about  20. 

Another  day  I  went  to  fee  the  catacombs^  which 
are  in  the  fame  plain  in  which  the  pyramids  are  fi- 
tuated  -,  and  was  Brft  conduifted  to  that  of  the  mum- 
mies. The  entrance  to  it  is  by  a  kind  of  well  about 
4  feet  fquare,  and  20  feet  deep,  cut  through  a  Huy 
rock :  but  this  rock  is  covered  with  land,  that  is  often 
proved  by  the  wind,  and  fills  up  the  holes.  How- 
ever, fome  of  thefc  wells  are  cafed  with  large  unburn! 
brick,  as  tar  as  the  depth  of  the  fand.  The  ufuai 
method  of  letting  people  down  with  ropes  being  very 
painiijl,  I  had  provided  myfelf  with  a  rope-ladder,  by 
which  I  del'ccndcd  more  conveniently,  though  not 
without  being  incommoded  with  the  landfalling  froTi 
the  top.  There  were,  I  obfcrved,  holes  on  each  fide 
to  defccnd  by  -,  but  moft  of  them  Iccmed  worn  away, 
and  to  be  of  no  ufc.  On  being  got  to  the  bottom,  I 
found  myfcif  in  a  paffagc  5  feet  wide,  and  about  ^o 
feet  long,  almod  filled  up  with  fand  :    having  got  to 

1.  end  of  it,  I  turned  down  another  paQagc  on  the 
M  4  Uft 


i«8       POCOCKE  and  NORDEN's 

left  hand  about  6  feet  high,  on  one  fide  of  which 
were  aparfnents  with  benches  about  2  feet  above  the 
fl:)or.  On  thefe  I  fuppofe  the  mummies  were  placed ; 
but  if  they  were  fet  upright,  there  muft  have  been 
fome  method  of  funportinor  them.  On  the  other  fide 
are  nanow  cells  jufl:  big  enough  to  receive  a  large 
coRin.  At  the  end  of  this  alley  I  turned  on  my  right 
hand  into  another  which  was  narrower ;  and  on  each 
fide  were  niches,  that  feen'ied  defigned  for  coffins 
placed  upright:  From  this  paflTige  arc  cut  oblong 
Jquare  apartments,  filled  with  the  remains  pf  mum- 
mies :  and  probably  here  the  inferior  perfons  of  a 
family  were  depofiied,  and  piled  upon  one  another, 
while  the  heads  of  the  families  were  placed  in  the 
niches.  Each  family  had  perhaps  originally  its 
burial  place,  and  as  the  family  increafcd,  they 
branched  out  thefe  fepulchral  grotts,  that  every 
defcendant  might  have  a  feparate  place  for  his  family. 

I  then  went  to  the  catacomb  of  the  birds,  which 
has  the  fame  kind  of  entrance,  only  it  is  about  30 
feet  deep :  The  paflTafre  from  it  is  about  8  feet  wide, 
and  almoft  full  of  fand.  This  catacomb  is  mucii 
more  magnificent  than  the  others,  it  being  the  fepul* 
chre  of  thofe  birds,  and  other  animals,  worfhippcd 
by  the  ancient  Egyptians  •,  for  when  they  bapperied 
to  C:rA  them  dead,  they  embalmed  them,  arid  wrap- 
ped them  up  with  the  fame  care  as  they  did  human 
bodies,  depofiting  t[icm  in  earthen  vafes  covered  over 
r.nd  (topped  clofe  wirh  mortar.  In  one  of  the  irre^ 
gular  apartments  I  faw  larger  jars,  that  niight  be  for 
dco;s  ar.d  other  animals;  of  which  fome  have  been 
found,  but  they  are  now  very  rare. 

Having  defcribcd  thefe  catacombs,  we  (haU  now 
take  a  view  of  the  ancient  methods  obferyed  by  the 
Egyptians  in  embalming  human  bodies.  According 
to  Herodotus,  there  were  certain  perfons  appointed 
for  this  bufincfs,  who  had  3  prices  according  to  the 
beauty  of  the  workmanfliip.  In  the  moft  eileemed 
method  of  embalming,  they  extraftcd  the  brains-by 
I  the 


^       TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      169 

the  nofc  with  a  crooked  iron,  and  ihen  poured  in 
drugs  I    afterward  they  opened  ihe  body,  toak  om 
ihe  bowels,  waJhcd  the  inlide  with  palni-winc ;  : 
having  rubbed  into  it  pounded  pcrfiimes,  fille 
with  niyrrh,  calfn,  and  other  Tpjces,  and  then  few 
it  up.     After  this  they  walhed  the  body  with  nin 
then  let  it  lie  70  days;  and  having  walhed  it  agaii^i 
wound  ic  up  in  fwathes  of  linen,  befmearing  it  ovdn 
with  gums,  which  the  Egyptians  ufcd  indeadof  gluC&.j 
The  relations  thtn  took  home  the  body,  and  inclofmg;  1 
it  in  the  wooden  figure  of  a  man,  placed  it  in  thd  ' 
catacombs.     Another  method  of  embalming  was  in- 
jefting  turpentine  of  cedar  with  a  pipe  into  the  body, 
without  cutting  it :    ihcy  then  faltcd  it  for  70  days, 
and  afterward  drew  out  the  pipe,  which  brought  tfatf 
bowels  with  it  by  the  fundament.     The  nitre  drrc^il 
up  the  flefii,  leaving  norhiflg  but  Ikin  and  bonesi  ' 
The  third  way  was  only  by  cleanfiiig  the  inhde  with 
(alt  and  water,  and  faltlng  it  for  70  days. 

■From  what  Diodorus  obltrvcs,  one  would  imagine 
that  there  was  a  way  of  preferving  the  bodies  much 
fupetior  to  either  of  the  former ;  for,  according  to 
him,  their  eyebrows  and  eyeiafhes,  with  the  form  antl 
appearance  of  the  whole  body,  were  fo  well  prefervcd, 
thit  the'y  mi^ht  be  known  by  their  features :  whence 
many  of  the  Egyptians  kept  the  bodies  of  their 
ancellors  in  houtee  adorned  at  a  very  great  expen^p; 
and  had  the  pleafure  to  fee  their  forefathers,  who 
had  been  dead  many  years  before  they  were  bom, 
and  to  obferve  all  their  features  as  well  as  if  they  were 
Uving.  But  it  does  not  appear  that  any  bodies  were 
ever  difcovcred  embalmed  in  this  manner. 

A  body  I  brought  from  Egypt,  when  I  returned 
to  I'ngiand,  was  in  a  coffin  made  with  boards,  the 
holes  between  which  were  filled  up  with  linen  and 
fine  plaltcr.  Ffur  folds  of  cloth  were  over  th:  head, 
the  upper  one  painted  blue.  Under  thefc  was  3  com- 
Hjlltion  about  half  an  inch  thick  of  gum  and  doth, 
lit  by  the  heat  of  the  things  applied  to  it ;  and 


lyo      POCOCKE  ind  NORDEN^f 

ncxc  to  the  (kin  was  a  coat  of  gum  or  bitumen  of  the 

ihickncfs  of  a  wafer.  The  hinder  part  of  the  head 
was  filled  with  bitumen,  which  had  been  poured  in  at 
the  nole,  and  had  penetrated  even  into  the  bone  of 
the  Ikull  The  body  was  bound  round  with  a  baO' 
dage  made  of  linen,  about  3  quarters  of  an  inch 
broad,  under  which  wcrre  four  folds  of  doch,  thoi  a 
fwathe  two  inches  broad ;  and  under  that  eight  di^- 
ent  bsndages  of  the  fame  breadth,  kid  acrofs  firoai 
the  Ihoulders  to  the  hips  on  the  oiher  fide,  t  Under 
this  was  a  cruft  of  linen  about  an  inch  thick,  burnt 
almufl:  to  afhes,  hue  {licking  together  by  means  of 
the  gums  with  which  ic  had  been  fmeared.  The 
arms  were  laid  acrols  the  breafl,  the  right  hand  over 
the  left,  and  the  hands  lying  toward  the  face.  From 
the  hips  to  the  feet  were  eight  bandages  two  inchei 
broad,  one  covering  about  half  the  oiher ;  and  under 
thefe  were  bandages  an  inch  thick,  confumed  by  time 
and  the  heat  of  the  drugs  :  but  the  outer  baadagp 
did  not  feem  to  have  been  befineared  with  gums. 
The  coffin  in  which  the  body  was  put  was  formed  of 
two  pieces  of  wood,  hollowed  lb  as  to  receive  iIk 
body,  and  being  put  together  were  ia(tened  with 
broad  pegs  in  the  top,  fixed  in  holes  in  the  lower 
part.  Thtry  were  cut  into  the  flupe  of  a  human 
body,  as  bound  up  after  it  is  embalmed  ;  and  both 
the  cuHin  and  body  wrapped  up  in  linen  were  coreicd 
with  a  thin  phlter,  and  painted. 

The  birds  in  the  laft-mentioncd  caucomb  were  em- 
balmed much  in  the  fame  manner,  being  dipped  in 
gums  and  aromatic  drugs,  and  bound  up  with  many 
folds  of  linen. 

I  returned  from  vifiting  the  catacombs  fooncr  than 
was  expeded  ;  and  on  my  unlocking  the  door  of  the 
mum  the  iheik  had  given  me  at  his  houfe,  a  little 
girl  about  eight  years  old  ran  out  of  ic  againft  me^ 
und  laying  huld  of  her,  (he  cried  outi  but  I  let  her 
so,  it  being  here  a  great  aB-'ront  for  any  one  to  lay 
hands  on  the  fair  fcx.    On  my  entering  the  room  I 

faw 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      171 

tkm  a  hole  had  been  broke  through  the  cicling,  though 
it  was  ten  feet  high  -,  and  I  riippole  the  mother  had 
let  the  child  down  by  a  rope,  to  rifle  my  baggage, 
and  to  convey  what  they  thought  proper  up  the  lame 
way  (he  came  down.  I  had  caught  them  in  the 
beginning,  and  therefore  little  was  loft ;  though 
doubtlels  they  thought  they  fcould  find  trcafurcs,  as 
they  imagine  the  tranks,  as  they  call  all  Europeans, 
abound  m  n'loney.  I  was  a  little  vexed  at  this  treat- 
ment, but  thought  it  nioft  prudent  to  take  no  notice 
of  it;  and  the  next  morning  took  my  leave,  the  (hcifc 
fending  a  man  to  condudi  me  to  Cairo. 

Being  recommended  to  the  cafhif  or  governor  of 
Faiumc,  who  was  going  into  that  province,  I  joined 
him  at  Old  Cairo,  at  the  houfe  of  Ofmiin  Hey,  where 
I  had  a  room  atfignrd  me,  and  the  calhif  invited  me 
to  fup  with  him  1  when  having  brought  feme  fpirituous 
liquors  as  a  prefent  to  him,  I  took  care  that  he  fhould 
be  fuppiiLd  at  fupper,  and  1  found  him  a  merry 
chcartul  companion. 

In  the  morning  we  fet  out,  and  came  to  the  large 
village  of  Mocanan,  with  fine  plantations  of  palm- 
trees  about  it.  Proceeding  two  miles  farther  to  the 
fouth-weft,  we  reached  Merrahcnny,  where  I  obfcrrvcd 
heaps  of  ruins,  and  a  mound  extending  a  mile  north 
anu  fouth,  and  1  hen  north-weft  to  the  pyramids  near 
Saccaraj  which  I  conjecture  might  be  a  rampart 
thrown  up  to  defend  the  ancient  city  of  Memphis. 
We  then  paficd  over  tiic  Canal  ol  the  Pyramids,  and 
Hopping,  1  had  my  carpet  laid  at  a  diftancc;  but  the 
calhif  invited  mc  to  him,  and  I  partook  with  him  of 
a  collation  of  bread,  raw  onions,  and  a  fort  of  fait 
pickled  chccl'e.  After  which  w*  purfued  our  jour- 
ney, and  at  length  paffc-d  iht  night  in  a  grove  of 
palm-trees.  The  calhif  fent  lor  mc  to  come  to  him  ; 
and  I  prclcnted  him  die  liquur  I  had  brought,  fitting 
with  him  for  fomctimei  but  be  being  vijiitd  by  a 
great  Ihetk,  I  retired :   and  he  afterward  fcni  vac  a 

part 


17*       POCOCKE  and  NORDEWs 

part  of  his  fupper,  which  had  been  drefled  for  iim  xt 
a  neighbouring  village. 

The  next  day  we  aicendcd  feme  low  fandy  hills  to 
the  Ibuth-weit,  which  abound  with  the  Egyptian 
pebble.  We  afterward  paffed  through  an  uneven 
jandy  defart,  and  came  to  a  vale  bounded  on  the 
north  by  fmatl  hilU  made  up  of  Urge  oyftcr-fhelU, 
with  a  very  little  red  cley  between.  Thofe  on  the 
furface  were  noc  at  all  changed  -,  but  many  below, 
and  in  the  plain,  are  petrified.  We  at  length  arrived 
at  Tamiea,  at  the  end  of  the  defart,  where  a  canal 
runs  into  the  lake  Mieris.  The  Arabs  whocame  out 
to  meet  the  cafhif  exerciled  themfelvcfi  all  the  way  on 
horfeback,  by  piirfuing  each  other  with  the  pike. 
When  one  has  the  advantage  over  another  he  engages 
him  ;  he  then  turns  (hort,  and  rides  away,  the  omcr 
purfuing  him  till  he  finds  an  opportunity  to  ftrike, 
and  then  he  runs  off  in  the  fame  manner.  Coming 
at  lad  to  the  lai^  village  of  Sennoors,  we  went  to 
the  houfe  of  the  governor  of  the  place»  where  a  great 
fupper  was  prepared  for  the  cafhif.  A  coarfe  brown 
woollen  cloth  being  fpread  over  the  whole  length  of 
the  room,  cakes  of  bread  were  laid  all  round  it,  and 
about  ten  difties,  repeated  fix  or  ieven  times,  were 
placed  all  alon^  the  room;  as  a  fmall  (heep  bdled 
whole,  a  roan.(-d  lamb,  pilaw,  fowls  roafted,  many 
difties  of  ftewed  meat,  fwcct  flummery,  meat  roafted 
in  fmall  piece?,  and  the  like.  At  the  head  of  the 
table  fat  the  cadiif,  with  the  great  people  by  him : 
I  might  have  fat  among  them,  but  I  kept  my  feat  on 
thcfophaj  and  when  the  perfon  on  the  cafliifs  right 
hand  aroJc-,  the  cafliif  called  mc  to  take  his  place,  and 
Ihewcd  mc  great  civility.  It  is  cuftomary  for  evety 
one  as  fucn  as  he  has  done  to  get  up,  wafh  his  hands, 
and  take  a  draught  of  water  :  thus  there  is  a  continual 
fuccefTion,  till  at  lad  the  poor  come  in,  and  cat  -w/hn 
is  lefti  for  the  Arabs  never  fct  by  any  thing  that 
comes  to  their  tables.    When  they  kill  a  fheop  th« 

dttJs 


p       TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.        171 

rfrefs  it  all,  call  in  their  neighbours,  and  aftcrwaTdl 
live  on  bread  and  (heir  other  mean  fare.  In  the 
morning  we  had  a  grand  collation  in  the  fame  man- 
ner, confifting  of  tlie  beft  fort  of  bread  made  with 
butter,  honey,  fried  eggs,  green  chccfc,  and  other 
things. 

We  were  now  in  the  fertile  province  of  Arfmoe^ 
(aid  to  be  the  finefV  fpot  in  all  Egypt,  and  the  only 
part  which  naturally  produces  olives.  But  though 
the  people  might  make  the  moft  exccllenc  oil,  what 
they  make  has  an  ill  tarte  -,  which  is  probably  owing 
to  their  letting  the  olivcs  hang  too  long,  in  order  10 
obtain  the  greater  quantity  of  oil. 

We  now  purfucd  our  Journey,  and  reached  Faiume, 
after  palTing  through  the  ruins  of  the  aiKient  Arfinoe, 
and  crofTing  a  briiige  over  a  large  canal  that  runs 
along  the  north  fide  of  the  new  town. 

Faiumc  is  the  refidencc  of  thecalhif,  or  governor 
of  the  province :  it  is  about  two  miles  in  compafa^ 
and  is  very  ill  built,  chiefly  of  unbumt  bricic  l-lere 
Kve  fcveral  rich  people  who  have  villages  belonging 
CO  them;  and  alfo  60  Arabs  who  have  the  tide  of 
Iheiks,  with  one  at  their  head,  who  is  a  perfim  of 
great  imercft ;  and  thefe  all  go  to  the  divan  of  the 
cadi,  which  is  held  twice  a-weck.  The  inhabitants 
have  here  a  manufacture  of  the  mats  they  lay  on  the 
floors  of  their  rooms.  They  are  alfo  famous  for 
making  rofe-water,  which  is  ufed  in  many  thing* 
ihcy  cat, -as  well  as  to  throw  on  the  guefts  before  ihey 
»ffer  the  inccnfe.'  They  are  likewife  faid  to  make 
coarfc  cloths,  and  cheap  Ituffs ;  to  prepare  leather, 
and  to  make  the  krathern  bags  in  which  they  carry- 
water  on  the  backs  of  camels.  The  Francifcans  of 
the  convent  of  Jcrufalcm,  who  here  go  under  tlic 
denomination  of  phyficians,  have  a  fmall  convent, 
and  the  Copii  have  a  church  four  miles  off,  though 
there  are  many  ChriUiar^  in  the  town.  There  artf_ 
Tineyards  about  two  leagues  to  the  weft,  where  tlK 
Chriftiaiu  mik»  vciy  gwd  n4iite-wific.    They  t 

likewili 


174       POCOCKE  and  NORD£N*i 

likewife  6ite  rai£m  i  and  the  'Mahometans  make  a 
fymp  of  the  juice  of  the  gr^K  by  boiling  it :  cbu  is 
brought  to  the  table,  and  is  very  agreeable  food.  I 
had  here  an  apartment  in  the  camirs  houfe ;  and  his 
people  perfuaded  me  to  fend  back  my  horics,  pro- 
mifing  that  I  (hould  be  well  fupplied  :  but  I  was  after- 
ward obliged  to  hire  very  bad  horfes  at  an  extravagant 
price.  I  was  daily  furnilhed  with  provifiwis  in  my 
own  room»  and  ibmetimes  the  cafluf  feoc  for  me  to 
dine  with  him;  when  the  drams  went  plentifully 
round  while  we  wet%  eating,  and  he  divcned  hiniieU 
with  jefting  with  two  or  three  who  feemcd  to  be  with 
him  as  dependants,  expelling  fome  little  govern- 
ment ;  for  wht-n  the  Turks  are  in  private,  they  lay 
afide  their  gravity,  and  are  as  merry  as  the  Europeans. 
While  I  was  here  it  hailed  and  rained  almoft  all  one 
morning,  and  likewife  rained  very  hard  the  following 
night  i  which  the  people  were  fo  &r  from  confidering 
as  any  advantage,  that  they  told  -  me  rain  caufes 
fcarcity,  the  overflowing  of  the  Nile  being  fuificient 
to  water  the  country.  There  are  about  this  town  no 
other  remains  of  the  ancient  city  of  Arfinoe,  but  great 
heaps  of  ruins. 

On  my  leaving  Faiyme,  I  proceeded  to  the  fbuth- 
weft;  and  at  about  three  miles  dithnce  from  that 
town,  came  to  a  very ,  remarkable  obelifk  of  red 
granite,  called  the  pillar  of  Biiige,  from  the  village 
of  Bijige  near  it.  It  meafures  four  feet  two  inches  on 
the  north  fide,  and  fix  feet  fix  inches  on  the  eaft : 
k  is  43  feet  high,  and  each  fide  is  divided  by  lines 
into  three  columns,  each  of  which  is  filled  with 
hieroglyphics.  This  obelilk  is  much  decayed  all 
round  for  ten  feet  high ;  and  the  weft  fide  is  almcA 
entirely  defaced. 

We  now  proceeded  moftly  through  groves  (^  young 
palm-trees ;  and  obfcrved  about  me  country  feveru 
vineyards,  the  vines  of  which  are  difpofed  in  a  very 
particular  manner :  we  then  palTed  by  corn  fields,  and 
afterward  over  uncultivated  laods }  and  having  crofled 

the 


y       TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      175 

the  dry  bed  of  a  canal,  came  to  another  canal  called 
Bahr-jofcph,  which  runs  into  the  lake  Mieris.  It, 
is  100  yards  broad,  with  clifts  on  the  eaft  fide,  at 
leaft  40  feet  high,  and  on  the  weft  about  30  :  though 
it  was  about  50  feet  broad,  it  was  then  very  Ihaliow. 
The  country  to  the  weft  is  called  Ncfle,  where  the 
harveft  is,  I  believe,  forwarder  than  in  any  part  of 
Egypt  1  for  on  the  1 6th  of  February,  I  have  fecn 
barley  of  that  year  cut  and  ihreftied. 

On  my  entering  the  large  village  of  Kefle,  which 
is  clofe  by  the  Nile,  I  went  to  the  (heik's  houfe, 
which  is  built  about  a  court,  and  has  a  round  turret 
at  the  north-weft  corner,  with  cannon  for  its  defence. 
I  had  a  letter  from  the  cafliif  10  the  Qieik  ;  but  he  not 
being  at  home,  one  of  the  chief  Arabs  agreed  for 
about  the  price  of  three  guineas,  to  furnifh  me  with 
four  Arabs  on  horfeback,  and  a  camel  10  carry  water 
and  provifions.  We  fct  forward  about  four  the  next 
morning,  and  proceeding  about  two  hours  to  the 
nonh-weft^  toolia  fupply  of  frcfli  water.  From  that 
place  the  Tandy  plain  begins ;  and  palling  over  it  we 
at  length  law  at  a  great  diftance  fome  remains  of  the 
temple  of  the  Labyrinth  -,  and  being  about  a  league 
from  it,  obferved  fcveral  heaps  of  ruins  covered  with 
fand,  and  many  ftones  all  around,  as  if  fome  great 
building  had  been  there.  Thi$,  which  is  called  the 
town  of  Caroon,  fccmed  to  have  been  of  a  con- 
fiderable  breadth  from  the  eaft  to  weft,  and  the 
buildings  extended  on  each  fide  toward  the  nortli,  to 
the  lake  Mxris  and  the  temple.  This  without  doubt 
is  the  Ipot  where  once  Aood  the  famous  Labyrinth, 
which  Herodotus  fays,  was  built  by  the  twelve  kings 
of  Egypt,  when  the  government  was  divided  into 
twelve  parts,  as  fo  many  palaces  for  them  to  meet  in, 
ind  tranfaift:  the  affairs  of  ftatc  and  religion. — *'  Of 
this  Labyrinth,  he  adds,  there  are  twelve  Jaloons,  or 
covered  courts,  with  gates  oppofitc  to  each  other,  fix 
toward  the  north,  and  fix  toward  the  louth  in  con- 
tiMUd  lines.  ,  They  are  furtuundcd  by  the  Umc  «uir 
4  ward 


176       PDCOCKE  and  NORDEWs 

\rard  wall.  Tlie  apartments  are  on  two  floors,  tha 
one  underground,  and  the  other  over  them:  3000 
in  jII,  e.;chconliftingof  1500.  Thofe  above  ground 
I  myft-It  have  feen  and  gone  through,  fo  that  I  fpeak 
from  my  own  knowledge  j  but- thofe  beneath  beinj 
the  fepulchres  of  the  kings,  and  erf"  the  facred  croco- 
diles the  rulers  of  the  t-gyptians  were  by  no  means 
willing  to  fhew  them.  The  upper  apartments  L 
myfelf  faw  to  be  greater  than  any  other  htiman  works; 
for  the  outlets  at  the  top,  and  the  various  windings 
through  the  faloons,  gave  me  infinite  fiirprize  as  I 
paired  from  a  falcon  into  apartments,  and  from  apart-> 
menta  into  bed-chambers,  and  into  other  rooms  out 
of  the  bed-chambers,  and  from  apartments  into 
faloons.  The  roof  of  the  whole  is  llonc  as  well  as  the 
■  walls.  The  latter  are  adorned  with  fculpture :  eicb 
faloon  has  a  periityle  of  white  ftones  adnurably  joined 
together.  Quite  clofe  to  the  line,  where  the  labyriodi 
terminates,  is  a  pyramid  of  240  feet,  on  which  iatge 
animals  are  engraven:  the  way  into  the  pyramid  is 
under  ground." — This  is  the  account  given  of  it  by 
Herodotus.  It  was  fo  extraordinary  a  building,  that 
Dcedalus  came  to  Egypt  on  purpofc  to  fee  it,  and 
built  the  labyrinth  in  Crete  for  king  Minos  on  the 
model  of  this.  But  little  is  now  to  be  feen  of  theiii 
boaftcd  pieces  of  art,  but  heaps  of  ruins,  broken 
pillars,  Ihanered  walls,  and  cornices,  many  of  wfaidi 
are  of  a  kind  of  brown  marble. 

Going  over  the  fpot  where  this  magnificent  ftmo* 
ture  once  flood,  I  came  tothe  foundation  of  an  oblong 
fquare  building  formed  of  a  reddiih  ftone  or  marble: 
Some  femicircular  pilaftens  placed  upon  it,  have  only- 
one  hewn  Itdne  at  the  bottom,  and  all  the  remains  of 
the  edifice  above  arc  of  brick  plaiftered  over.  What* 
ever  this  building  was,  it  feenis  to  have  been  repaired 
in  this  rough  manner.  More  to  the  eaft  are  the 
remains  of  an  oblong  fqtiare  edifice  of  white  hewn 
ftone  plaiftered  ever,  with  a  fort  of  bafc  and  plinth 
ranging  round. .  Near  this  is  a  particular  fort  of^raftic 
building 


i;?.     POCOCKE  and  NORDEN's 

had  the  principal  tnanagcment  of  the  affairs  of  thaC 
prince,  though  he  wouKl  never  accept  of  any  office 
undcT  him.  It  was  thoug!u  proper  that  I  fhould  take . 
upon  me  a  name  f;irnili.ir  to  the  people :  fo  it  was 
aorfL-d  I  (hould  be-  c.rilcd  Jolcph,  with  Malim,  or 
Mailer,  the  ufual  liilc  given  tj  Chriftians  in  this 
couiury.  I  had  alfo  k-t  my  beard  grow,  and  afTumed 
the  habit  of  a  Cupri,  wiih  the  black  gown  of  cerc- 
ir.onv,  and  h;iJ  a  Vdvin:  bhie  and  white  handkerchief 
lCi)rc  about  my  neJ.,  hiii'.i;in2  <.Iown  before;  and  on 
other  occafior.s  a  fiicc  c  or  t':e  f.iir.c  kind,  brought 
rouH'i  iviy  boiiy  and  over  my  hc?i.\.  Bcfide,  I  had 
the  LIuc  g'irment  or  fl^.ire,  whi'h  is  put  on  over  all, 
to  go  OIK  \v':rh  at  any  time  in  difguiie  with  the  boat- 
men. In  this  mancr  I  let  out  wirh  mv  fervant  and 
drrigoivap,  or  interpreter,  on  the  6th  of  December 
1737,  when  I  embarked  in  a  fmall  hired  boat,  and  at 
night  canie  up  to  the  great  boat  at  Turphaier,  which 
is  on  the  ifland  that  I  fuppofe  to  be  tlie  great  ifle  of 
Henicleopolis,  fnade  by  a  canal  crofllng  from  the 
Nile  to  the  old  bed  of  that  river  under  the  hills.  The 
great  boats,  fuch  as  this  in  which  we  embarked, 
have  a  maft  about  the  nnddle,  and  another  toward 
the  prow.  Part  of  the  boat  is  covered  with  matting, 
by  n:eans  of  poles  fct  upright,  with  others  tied  acrois 
at  t!ie  top  of  them  i  under  which  flieiter  the  people 
fir,  and  in  the  night  take  their  repole. 

On  the  8th,  h:iving  little  wind,  we  went  adioreon 
the  call,  at  tlie  convcuc  of  St.  Anthony.  There,  as 
in  rr.;i:  of  ilic  m^inailciies  in  Egypt,  the  prieils  arc 
icTi:'  .r.^,  i-.rui  -ivt:  in  the  cOiivcnt  v/ith  their  wives  and 
<  :i:ida  n.  Scvr I'al  oi'  them  were  employeil  in  carrying 
i.'ii'.t^i  to  re.  jir  thrir  ri>r.vent  •,  and,  taking  u.^  for 
i-iT/'^rs  v/.v)  ..:•:';'  ru  ociVianti  thj  poll-tax,  told  us, 
i.r.  i/v:r  ^^^^^{^  i '^'^v  ra.iiiy  there  were  ot  them,  that 
r')rvir  vere  r.'>  r.  ^r.:  riian  v/c  'aw  :  but  on  our  unde- 
<;/i  !v^  ilit.n.  C:^:  V  fl:c\v^\i  v.-j,  ;;jcir  convent,  which 

On 


TRAVeLS  thrbtigh  EGYPT. 

On  the  14th  we  had  a  good  wind,  and  pafHiig  h 
Minis,  the  relidence  of  the  cafhif  of  the  provinte  c 
that. name,  came  up  with  the  ruins  of  the  city  ( 
Aniinoopolis,  built  by  Hadrian   in  honour  of  An. 
tinous  his  favr)urite,  who  was  drowned  thiTe ;  bui 
now  callet-l  Knfmeh.     It  is  faid  that  the  city  was  threfr"^ 
or  four  milis  round.     Among  thefc  ruins  I  law  ftill;. 
ft^nding  a  large  pillar  wiih  a  Corinthian  capital,  on  , 
thf  top  of  which  was  a  fquare  ftone,  that  was  pro-^i 
bably  to  fct  feme  (laiue  upon.     I  had  alio  a  view  or, 
a  v^y  fine  gate  of  the  Corinthian  order,  and  of  cx-^ 
cellrtil  wofkmanniip.     Near  this  place  is  a  village  of 
Chtiftians   called    Ebadic,    whofc  greateft    I'ccurity 
among  fuch  bad  neighbours  fcems  to  be  a  notion  that 
has  prevailed,  that  no  MahomLtan  can  live  there. 

We  failed  on,  and  all  the  way  from  Souadi  la 
Manfaloueh  obferved  grottos  cut  in  the  niQuntain^j 
[6fl,ce  thi  abode  of  hermits,  but  occupied  at  prcfcnt) 
hy^a  fort  of  Arabs,  who  follow  the  profelfion  ofj 
pn^ates  v[ton  the  NilL-.  In  dilFcrcnt  places  of  th^fc'p 
rockj,  the  echoes  are  fo  diftinifh  that  not  a  finglfij 
fyllablc  is  loft.  [  i^  ' 

The  mofqucs  of  M.infalo'uth  give  u  a  bcautifat  [ 
ippc^rance  at  a  dlftance.     The  adjacent  country  is 
very  fertile,  afid  we  find  there  all  forts  of  fruit  iii 
abulidance.     Oppofite    this    town,   on    the    callern 
bortlcrof  the  Nile,  there  is  a  Copti  convent  a'jluiutcly,.' 
ioa'ccelTibl;'.     Thyfc  that  would  enter  it  arc  o'jligej'-, 
10  get  rliemfclvcs  raifcd  up  in  a  bafkct,  by  .ncans  of  «^^ 
puiK)'.-,  from  whence  it  has  obtained  the  name  ol'th^  ^ 
Polley  Convent.]  .'^^^ 

On  the  1 5ih  we  pafled  by  Sciout,  about  nvo  niiie|, j 
ffO;n  the  river,  whirh  I  went  to  on  my  return.  Tiji|jk 
I  rap^'e  to  be  Antaeopolii,  ihc  capital  oi  a  province  j, 
of'Tnat  name,  lo  cal'cd  from  Anixus,  who  wa*.  ovc;r  .; 
cofiit  by  Herculei.  '  ,  ,^  '„ 

>Jcjr  a  mile  to  tlie  wcflof  the  river  we  ftw  Abouiig*  ,, 
vmih  is  a  t.:ilcrably  large  town,  and  a  bifhop's  tec :  tht*,,, 
wis'jwrhap  the  i-lypl'irle  of  ilie  anciems.     Near  t!ic 

' '  N  I  tOiwo 


i8o   POCOCKE  and  NORDEN's 

town  was  encamped  an  Arabian  fiieik  who  commandis 
this  country.  I'hcfe  governors  often  go  round  their 
territories,  encamping  near  towns  and  vill^es,  to 
many,  of  which  they  have  houfcs,  in  order  to  colleft 
their  tribute,  which  moftly  confifts  in  cattle.  In  die 
evening  we  came  to  Gaua-Kiebrc,  where  is  a  very 
bcautitul  portico  of  a  temple,  containing  iS  pillar* 
in  three  rows :  thefe  have  a  very  Cnguur  kind  of 
capital  i  and  the  (hafts  of  the  piUars  arc  enriched  with 
hieroglyphics,  executed  in  a  more  mafterty  manna 
than  any  1  have  fcen  in  E^pt.  It  appears  to  have 
been  a  very  magnificent  building,  not  only  from  the 
portico,  but  from  the  vaft  ftones  that  are  fcen  about 
it.  On  the  1 6th  we  came  to  the  territories  of  the 
prince  of  Akmim,  which  begin  at  Raigny.  Near 
this  place  is  the  grotto  of  the  famous  ferpent  called 
Hcrray,  mentioned  by  travellers. 

[This  grotto  is  the  tomb  of  a  pretended  Turkilh 
faint,  and  is  adorned  with  a  cupola  raifed  above  the 
mountain.  The  Arabs  affirm  that  flieik  Heredy, 
having  died  in  this  place,  was  butied  here,  and  thac 
God,  by  n  particular  favour,  transformed  him  into  a 
lerpent  that  never  dies;  but  heals  difeafcs,  and 
bellows  favours  on  all  who  implore  bis  aid.  It 
appears,  however,  that  this  miraculous  ferpent  makei 
fome  diftinclion  of  perfons,  and  is  much  more  pro- 
pitious toward  the  great  lords,  than  toward  the  infer 
nor  people.  If  a  fheik  is  attacked  with  any  dtforder». 
the  ferpent  has  the  complaifance  to  fuffcr  himfelf  ta 
be  carried  to  his  houfe  -,  but  a  perfon  of  the  common 
rank  muft  not  only  Ihew  a  defire  of  his  vititing  him, 
and  make  a  vow  to  recompenfe  him  fur  his  trouble* 
but  lend  afpotlefs  virgin  on  ihe  important  embafly: 
for  the  fair  alone  can  have  any  influence  on  him  j  and 
if  her  virtue  fliould  be  the  Icall  fullicd,  he  would  be 
inexorable.  On  her  entering  into,  his  prcfence  Oie 
makc"»  him  a  compliment,  and  with  the  moft  humble 
fiibmiflion,  intrcKis  liim  to  fuffcr  himfelf  to  be  carried 
to  the  pcrlbn  who  wants  his  alHilance.    The  ferpent^ 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      i8i 

who  can  refufc  nothing  to  female  virtue,  be^s  at 
firft  with  moving  its  tail;  the  virgin  redoubles  h^  J 
intreaties,  and  at  length  the  reptile  fprings  up  to  het  j 
neck,  places  itfclf  in  her  boibm,  and  there  renuini 
quiet,  while  it  U  carried  in  (lace  in  tiie  midlt  of  loud 
acclamations  to  the  houfe  of  the  perfon  whodifpaiched 
the  ambifladrcfs.     No  fooner  is  ic  brought  into  the 
room,  than  the  patient  begins  to  find  himlelf  relieved,,  ^ 
Yet  [his  miraculous  phyCician  does  not  withdraw  ■,  for^ 
he  is  very  willing  to  remain  Ibme  hours  wiih  the 
patient,  it*  during  the  whole  time  they  tike  care  to 
rc-gate  his  priefts,  or  his  faints,  wlio  ncvc-r  quit  him. 
All  this  goes  on  marvelloufly  well,  provided  no  dif- 
believer  or  Chriftian  comes;  for  his  prcfcnce  would" 
dilturh  the  feall;    and  the  ferpent,  who  would  pcrj  f 
ccive  him,  would   immediately  difappear.     In  vain  ' 
would  they  fearch  for  him  ;  he  is  no  where  to  be 
found ;    and  fhould  he  even  have  been  carried  to  the 
other  Rdc  of  the  Nile,  he  would  be  able  to  return  in- 
vifibly  to  the  tomb.      In  Ihort,    the  Arabs   boldly 
aflerT,  that  if  this  ferpent  was  cut  in  pieces,  the  parts 
would  join  again  upon  the  fpot,  and  that  this  attempt 
could  not  put  an  eiwl  to  his  life,  fuice  it  was  deilincd 
to  be  immortal. 

The  Chrjrtians,  who  claim  a  fuperlor  degree  of 
wifdom  to  the  Arabs,  very  pioufly  believe  that  this 
pretended  faint  is  the  Devil  hiinfelf,  who,  by  thejurt 
judgment  of  God,  is  permitted  to  miOcad  this  blind 
and  ignorant  people-,  and  ihey  are  confirmed  in  thi^ 
belief,  by  a  tradition  that  it  was  to  this  place  thcs,, 
angel  Raphael  banifhed  the  devil  Afmodi,  Tobit 
viii.  3.  That  a  Icrpcnt  is  there,  cannot  be  denied  j 
but  he  undoubtedly  dies  like  other  ferpents,  and  the 
priefts  fubftituce  another  of  the  fame  kiad  in  his  room. 
Were  they  "indeed  to  cut  the  ferpent  in  pieces,  aod  ' 
were  the  parts  fecn  to  join  again,  it  might  be  ellecre 
ed  an  incontcftible  proof  of  its"  immortality  ;  but  thC) 
could  never  be  brought  to  that.  The  virginity  of 
the  ambalTadrcfs  is  fecurrd  by  her  being  fo  young  at 
N  3  ,iq« 


,82       POCOCKE  anJ  NORD.EN's 

to  be  free  from  fufpicion  ■,  and  ferpents  are  known  to 
be  attraiteJ  by  teriain  odours  and  kerbs,  with  which 
the  {^iri  r.-^y  be  rubbed,  at  leaft  flie  is  adorned  with 
cliaplctsand  garlands  of  flowers,  in  which  ihcy  take 
care  not  to  forget  fuch  as  are  iigrccable  to  the  fcrpent. 
In  Ihorr,  if  it  be  afl;cd  how  it  is  pofliole  that  it  (hould 
diOppciir  iVoni  rhc  iii;ht  of  lb  many  people,  I  anfwer, 
that  it  i.i  fijffic'ent  to  ronceive  that  tliefc  priefts  are 
excellent  i'jgglcrs ;  and  wiiocver  has  ken  the  tricks 
d-.ily  piayetl  bytl-.e  inoimtcbinks  in  the'grcat  fquare 
I"  Ibre  the  calUc  of  Calio,  mull;  have  been  ftruck  wiih 
feats  n:uch  more  reinarkal'lc  than  this.] 

On  the  17th  wc  arrived  ^t  Akmim,  wKich  is  about 
a  mile  to  the  call  of  ti.e  river,  {ituated  on  2  final! 
eminence  that  fccms  to  have  been  raifed  by  art,  and  a 
canal  from  the  Nile  encompafibs  moft  part  of  the 
town.  This  I  fiippofe  to  be  Pantipolis,  anciently  fii- 
mous  for  workers  in  ftor.e,  and  for  the  linen  manu- 
faiSiire.  At  prefcnt  the  inhabitants  make  coarfc 
cotton?. 

1  was  at  Akmim  at  Chriftmas,  and  fat  up  almoft 
3II  the  night  of  the  eve  of  that  fcQival  to  fee  the 
Copti  ceremonies  in  the  Roman  church  i  for  though 
they  are  converts  to  the  church  of  Rome,  they  reiain 
their  own  ceremonies,  arid  only  n-akc  Ibine  few  alter- 
ations in  part  of  their  prayers.  As  foon  as  the  ftrvicc  ' 
was  ended,  which  was  not  before  day,  I  had  a  met' 
fiigc  from  Malim  Soliman,  that  I  muil  pafs  the  whole 
Ihy  with  him;  accordngly  I  went  to  his  houie,  and 
fofTce  being  ferved,  wc  all  found  it  necefiary  to  take 
fome  re!t  on  account  of  the  fatigue  of  the  preceding 
night.  At  noon  a  great  dinner  was  fcrvcd  up  in  an 
open  fur. imer-houfe.  Tlure  v.ere  2.-,  diflies,  which 
nioIUy  confided  of  ri;*!  iiiup';,  and  a  fort  of  ragobs, 
pigeoii'i,  nnd  f"v;is  iluiVcd  v.  :;!■.  lirc,  apd  rpafl  |anib. 
i  W.1S  the  r-nly  perion  r,i  :he  tab!':  icrvcd  with  a  plate, 
or  (h:;iluda  kiiil'e  r.ivl  lurk.  ill.  foiis-in-law,  with 
fonie  other  of  his  rcl.:tioiis,  waited  at  tabic;  for  fo 
iir.at  a  !bb(..rdiri?tio,-i  is  obkivjd  throughout  ail  the 


with  regard'  to  tiiffereni  degrecj  and  (yatLons, 
""that  fons  and  inferior  relations  nt-vtr  III  before  thtir 

f""  irents,  unlefs  they  are  Icvcral  times  dclircJ  vj  do  it. 
irit,  a  very  rich  dram  wis  lirrvcd  ;  and  at  tiinncr, 
Simc  wine  of  which  1  had  made  liini  a  prefttit,  was 
■'^iven  round.  After  wc  had  dank  coffee,  we  walked 
Cut  of  the  town  tu  fte  his  garden,  wlicre  we  had 
coffee  again,  and  tlien  recunied  tu  his  houli.-.,  After 
fo|>perhcaIki.-dir.i;  ii'  I  wrjul:t  Ue  there  or  ut  iKc  cun- 
,  vent  Thus  the  tlay  was  palled  in  the  mattiit-r  of  a 
'  Tlirk'tb  vifu  ;  every  thing  being  far  bcj'ond  wliatcver 
'the  Arabs  pretend  w.  .,  -, 

''  I  alfo  went  a  fccon.'  tinfie  to  fee  ihe,  prince;  who 
laid,  he  wondered  he  hid  Hen  iiie  but  once  ;  he  even 
"'iStiired  me  to  mak'-  hii  houfc  ray  own,  and  to  com- 
■mand  wh,i[  I  pleafcd. 

t  here  agreed  for  ^  boat  iivi  four  men  to  go  up 
with  me  to  the  cnrarift.  and  back  again,  paying  tliem 
'abciOt  the  vahie  of  hall  a  crown  a  day,  Witii  a  certain 
fl'uastiiy  of  cprn  ^nd  lendls  by  the  nicioth,  and  liniling 
them  in  coffee.  Indeed  I  af[ei\'.jiJ  foujid  ihjt  they 
eXpefleJ  to  have  a  (hare  of  every  diing  i  iud  -,  for  ic 
'ii  the  nature  of  the  Arabs  to  dcfjrc  whatever  iiicy,  fee. 
'Wheti  we  had  agreed,  the  Coptic  who  were  prefcnt, 
Wcbrding  to  ttieir  cuftijm>  la:d  a  prayer.  PAallm 
'Sdlinun  .inJ  fo.ne  other  frienLia  attended  me  to  -the 
'bba: ;  and  his  fervants  bfougiit  nx-  a  preicnt  of  alargc 
b'afket  of  bread,  fome  fine  cakes,  and  a  (hecp.  At 
■parting 'the  Cdptis  faid  a  prayer,  iiiid  wilLcd  mc.a  fafe 
Tiittirn,  thac  we  might  agai.T  praj  togt tlier. 

,1  left  •■^l.mim  on  the  dhih  of  Ue^cmber,  arid  in 
■foine  ;imc  cMTx  "to  Menlhech,  a  poor  ill  buijt  town, 
libfiut  a  mile  in  coiiipals  :  but  to  tlie  fouih  of  it  there 
aire  confidcrablc  marks  of  a.g!-rat  tity.  This  fceiiii  to 
have  been  Ptokmais,  meiitio'ncd  by 'Sirabp,  ai  the 
greateft  city  in  the  Thebaid.  "The  prince  of  Akiiiim 
having  written  toanofnccr  of  the  _^uwn  ip  .give  ;i;^ 
ibme  letters  for  Affoiun,  [  waited  on  l)i:n>itli  a  pre- 
fcnt  of  rice  and   foap,    which  are  here  acccptjblc: 


i84      POCOCKE  and  NORDEN*5 

he  entertained  me  very  civilly  at  his  houfc,  and  ga.ve 
me  letters  to  his  friends  at  AITouan.  I  afterward  went 
to  fee  the  mafter  of  the  veffcl  in  which  I  came  from 
Cairo,  who  had  invited  me  to  his  houlc.  He  enter- 
tained me  with  coffee,  and  a  hot  Iharab,  as  they  call 
it,  made  with  fug^r  and  ginger  j  but  people  of  fu- 
prrior  rank  ufe  cinnamon,  anddrink  it  like  tea.  Wo 
fat  round  a  pan  of  coals,  and  three  Mahometans  fung 
Arabian  longs,  beating  time  wtth  their  hand$,  ai^ 
playing  on  a  tambour. 

[I  went  to  the  bazar,  and  found  it  better  fiirniihed 
than  thofe  1  had  met  with  elfewherc.  Indeed  the 
barques  ufnally  flopping  here  contribute  to  render 
this  a  place  or  trade,  and  commodities  are  brought 
thither  every  market  day,  bccaufc  the  people  are 
always  fure  of  felling  them.  The  town  has  a  mpfqu?, 
and  likcwifc  a  very  large  church-yard,  where  ope  may 
obli:rve  the  different  monuments  with  which  they 
honour  the  memory  of  the  dead.  This  laft  diftinq- 
tion  it  owes  to  the  height  of  its  fuuation,  which  in- 
duces the  people  to  bring  thither  the  dead  of  all  the 
ne'ghbouring  places,  that  they  may  not  be  expofed 
to  the  annual  inundation  of  the  Nile.  As  T  was  walk- 
ing in  the  bazar,  I  met  with  two  of  their  pretended 
faints,  whom  the  market  had  drawn  tJuiner:  thCT 
were  entirely  naked,  and  ran  like  madmen  through 
the  ftrects,  (baking  their  heads,  and  crying  out  witft 
all  tneir  might,  A  courtezan  was  alfo  there  ;  her  face 
and  bofom  were  unveiled,  and  her  (hifc  w^s  whitt, 
whereas  that  of  other  women  is  blue.  Her  heiuli 
neck,  arms,  and  legs,  were  adorned  with  abundance 
of  trinkets ;  but  all  thefe  embellifhmcnts  did  not 
charaflerife  her  fo  well  as  her  impudent  air,  $n^ 
lafcivious  geftures.  One  would  think  (hat  thefc  fprt 
of  women  muft,  in  all  countries,  hav^  a  commoit 
mark  of  diftiniaion :  this,  however,  had  an  extraor-r 
dinary  one,  which  wa^,  that  the  infinitely  exceeded  aU 
others  in  uglinefs. 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.       185 

The  Chriftian  Copti,  as  alto  the  profelytes  de  Pro- 
paganda, have  in  this  town,  and  even  through  all  the 
doniinions  of  the  prince  of  Aktnim,  very  great  privi- 
leges :  they  ^re  nor  afraid  here  to  Itrike  a  MulTulman ; 
though  in  other  places  iliey  ciinnot  do  it  without  nin- 
ning  the  rilk  of  being  murdered.] 

The  next  day  we  purfucd  our  voyage,  and  after 
fome  time  hid  high  rotky  hills  to  the  call,  that  arc 
almoll:  perpendi  ular,  ni  which  there  are  many 
grotios-  We  ftjoii  reached  Girge,  on  the  weft-,  thia 
is  the  capital  of  iiatd  or  Upper  tgypt ;  it  is  near  two 
piilcs  in  compafs,  and  is  pretty  well  built.  The  lan- 
giack  or  governor  of  fc-gypt  refidcs  here,  I  went  to 
the  convent  of  the  Frantilcan  rrilTionaiies,  who  pafe 
for  phyiicians,  but  have  privately  a  church,  and  about 
1 50 converts!  but  they  jre  frequently  in  great  dan- 
ger fro.T)  the  infuience  of  the  foldiers,  fo  that  they 
have  been  two  or  three  times  forced  to  fly,  and  their 
houfc  h.;s  been  plundered.  I  was  condu6ted  by  one 
of  the  fathers  to  the  Cdjmacani  of  the  town,  who  is 
chief  gOiVcrnor  in  the  ablcncc  of  the  beyi  and  being 
in  a  dropfy,  had  him  called  in  to  vifit  him.  I  (hewed 
this  great  man  the  letter  1  had  from  Ofman  bey  to  the 
Ikngiack  vt  Girge,  and  having  made  him  a  prejcnc 
of  two  bo3(cs  of  French  prunellas,  he  gave  me  a  letter 
to  Affouan,  near  the  caiaraiit.  \Ve  then  went  to  the 
aga  ol  the  Janizaries,  whu  was,  according  to  their 
cullom,  fitting  under  the  gate-way  leading  to  his 
htiufc. .  He  received  us  with  much  Civility,  he  having 
been  one  ol  the  father's  patients  ■,  and  giving  me  four 
letter;,  I  Icfit  him  the  fame  prefent  I  had  made  the 
caimacam.  Afterward  wc  waited  on  a  t  urk,  who, 
I  was  informed,  had  fome  fuperior  command  over 
the  JAniyar}es  of  the  catllo  of  Allou^n  ;  to  him  I  gave 
a  letter  frum  the  prince  of  AJcmim,  and  to  tlic  prcfcnt 
I  made  ihc  others,  added  a  lar^e  balkct  of  nee.  He 
did  not  give  us  a  very  polite  reception,  but  wondered 
why  the  Franks  viliKd  the  cataradts  i  and  afked,  if  I 
hfUl  a  watch  to  icli  i   which  is  an  inumatiun  that  he 


II         Btm  * 


t^G        POCOCKE^nd  NORDEN's 

wanted  one  for  a  prcfcnt:    hbwcver,  on  his  fteinnr 
.what  I'  had  brought,  he  ordered  me  a  letter,  which, 
he  tiiid,  wobld  protcft  me  as  far  as-the  three  caftlcij, 
that  is,  to  the  end  of  the  grand  rignior*s  dominions. 

On  the  3d  of  January,  the  wind  not  favouring  us, 
we  itoppcd  at  a  place  about  three  miles  from  Furlhout. 
Wc  mounted  on  affcs  without  bridles,  and  only  a 
-piece  of  coarle  cloth  tied  on  the  back  for  a  faddlc; 
but  the  prcfident  of  the  convent  having  notice  of  ot: 
arrival,  ibon  met  us  with  horfes,  on  which  we  rode 
into  Fnrfliout,  which  is  a  poor  ill  built  ruinous  town, 
about  a  mile  round.  Yet  here  refides  the  great  flieik, 
who  is  governor  of  all  the  country  on  the  weft,  almoit 
.as  far  as  Aflbuan.  The  adjacent  country  is  very  plea- 
I'ant,  all  the  roads  to  town  being  planted  with  acacia- 
trees.  Here  the  Francilban  miffionaries  have  a  con- 
vent under  the  name  of  phyficians,  and  have  a  large 
ialjon  wiiere  they  receive  their  company,  which  m 
private  Icrves  for  a  chapel.  I  waited  on  the  (heik's 
fccrctcii-y,  with  a  prcicnt  of  five  or  fix  pounds  ot 
coffee-,  in  return  he  lent  a  live  Iheep  to  the  convent: 
to  entertain  me  v/ith,  and  introduced  me  to  the  fheik, 
•wh3  was  in  the  Arab  drefs,  fitting  in  a  corner  of  his 
ro'jm  by  a  pan  of  coals  :  he  rofe  on  my  entrance,  and 
on  my  leaving  him,  I  gave  him  three  letters,  and  my 
fcrvanc  brought  in  my  prefent,  which  confiftcd  of  two 
boxes  of  prunellas,  two  of  other  fweetmeats,  and 
fome  glals  veflcls.  He  aiked  where  I  intended  to 
go  ?  1  told  him  to  tlie  cataraft.  He  replied  with  a 
good  naturcd  fmile,  that  a  boat  of  Franks  *  lately 
went  up-,  and  that  the  people  faid  they  came  to  dif- 
covcr  the  way  into  the  country,  in  order  to  return  and 
take  it;  and  then  dcfired  to  know  what  I  wanted  to 
fee  ?  I  told  him  the  ruined  cities.  He  obferved  that 
wc  had  not  liich  ruins  in  Enn:land ;  and  afked  whe- 
thcr  if  thev  tho^ld  o-o  into  our  country,  wc  would 
permit  them  to  fee  every  tiling.^    adding,   that  he 

*  X  !iis  appears  Co  have  been  Mr.  NorJen^ 

would 


■would  give  pic  lettprs  and  a  man  to  go  wifh  rnej  lb 
that  I  might  be  aiTuretl  I  fliould  travel  .fecurely.  I 
^ftcrwarit  went  to  Ice  the  fiaeik's  garden,  which  in 
the  middle  y/^  pUnted  u-ith  vines,  and  in  tt^e  other 
parts  like  a.u  orchard,  with  onui^,  Iqrpons,  acacia, 
palms,  and  other  tfccs. 

On  thcgth  about  midnight  we  arrived  at  Dendcra, 
which  is  Turraunded  with  woods,  and  lituated  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  river  ;  but  did  not  chufe  to  go 
much  about,  on  account  of  its  being  the  firftdayof 
^e  great  Turjtilh  feaft  Bairam,  after  the  conclufion 
ojf  tht'ir  mondi  of  falling.  Some  of  our  men  went  to 
the  motjiie  in  a  gown  of  white  cotton  fewed  up 
before,  a  habit  of  ceremony  worn  in  thofc  parts ;  and 
poflibly  the  ufe  of  tlic  furplice  might  take  its  rife  from 
ihii,  as  a  veil  of  ceremony  worn  when  they  went  any 
lyhcre  in  high  drefs.  Having  letters  to  two  Maho- 
metans h'.rc,  I  carried  them  fome  fmall  prefcnts,  and 
ihcy  recommended  me  to  the  governor,  who  fcat_his 
brother  with  me  to  Amara,  which  lies  about  a  league 
to  the  fouth,  where  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Tcn- 
flra.  The  inhabitants  were  great  wortliippers  trf" 
Venus  and  liis,  to  each  of  whom  tliey  buik  a  temple. 
From  the  many  heaps  of  ruins  that  arc-feen  here,  the 
fity  appeals  to  ha^'c  been  large,  and  to  have  been 
inufl)  tt:cquc;i^:d  ftncc  the  time  of  its  ancient  fplen* 
j3or.     This  was  tloubtlefi  the  temple  of  Ifis. 

Having  wiU(  the  grcatcft  fatisfadion  viewed  tficfc 
fine  rcmaii>3  of  antiquity,  I  returned  to  the  town. 
Ac  parting,  n.y  Iricndi  fcnt  mc  a  prefcni  of  a-  lamb  i 
i^d  the  governor's  brother  came  to  the  bqat  for  hit 
^  ^Icnc,  wiiicb  wi(s  a  balkct  of  rice,  focne  coAec  and 

•W- 

A  Uttic  fenhcr  wr  came  up  with  Kept,  a  village  at 
;?  diiUncc  from  the  river-  Thii  wts  tUr  ancient 
^-)t05,  tvhick  ia  inhabited  botb  hy  th^  li^ytiiians 
3J1U  ArabjatU;  for  [he  Nile  below  the  city  lunning.tg 
(||c  vert,  ibis  woi  the  tirli  con.cniroi  pLuc  forcatry- 
Wq  00  the  [ui'lc  to  ihe  l^cd  Sea,  tiu;  liyer  being 
7  •    nearer 


J 


■K 


iW      POCOqKE  an4NORDEN*» 

fiearer  to  it  here  than  at  any  other  place  below : 
and  this,  with  the  difficult  navigation  of  the  Red 
Sea  to  the  north,  caufed  the  trade  for  the  merchan- 
difes  of  India  and  Arabia  to  take  this  channel.  In 
the  early  ages  of  Chriftianity  this  city  became  famous 
for  the  great  refort  of  Chriftians  to  it  in  times  of  pcr- 
fecution-,  and  this  is  the  firft  rile  of  the  name  (^ 
Coptis,  which  it  is  faid  the  Mahometans  gave  in  dc- 
rifion  to  the  Chriftians  of  Egypt. 

At  Icngih  coming  to  the  portof  Cous,  wc  rode  two 
miles  through  a  flat  country  full  of  dome-trees,  to 
that  miferable  town  built  of  unburnt  brick.  It  was 
the  ancient  ApoUinopolis,  and  is  fituated  on  an  a-ti- 
ficial  eminence ;  but  there  are  no  remains  except  of 
one  I'mall  temple,  on  which  is  a  Greek  infcription  in 
honour  of  Apollo  and  the  other  deities  worfhipped  in 
It-  While  I  was  viewing  this  temple,  one  of  the  great 
lheik*s  officers,  in  a  Turkifh  drefs,  came  and  aOced 
me  with  much  civility  to  drink  coffee  -,  but  it  being 
late  1  declined  the  invitation.  I  afterward  went  to 
the  great  fheik's  lecretary,  to  be  introduced  by  him 
to  his  maftcr,  and  made  him  a  fmall  prefent.  Wc 
fat  down  on  a  mat  in  the  open  court,  where  our 
horfes  were  tied  -,  and  I  was  treated  with  very  indif* 
fcrent  fare,  confifting  of  an  ill  talted  feed,  mixed  with 
oil,  onions,  bread,  and  water:  our  entertainment 
concluded  with  coffee.  After  which  he  went  with  me 
to  the  fheik,  whom  we  found  laid  down  to  take  hi9 
repofe  on  a  fopha,  in  a  fmall  room,  dreffed  in  a  kind 
of  blue  (hirt  over  fome  other  garments,  with  one  of 
his  officers  fitting  by  him.  1  went  up  to  the  fopha,  ^ 
and  delivered  my  letters  from  the  prince  of  Akmim, 
and  an  officer  of  the  janizaries  at  Girge,  and  then  my 
prefent,  as  ufual,  was  laid  before  him,  which  confifted 
of  a  bag  of  rice,  leaf  tobacco,  Joppa  foap,  and  a  pair 
of  red  ftoes.  Then  letting  him  know  that  I  defired 
a  letter  to  fee  the  antiquities  of  Carnack  and  Luxerein, 
he  ordered  it  to  be  wrote,  and  defircd  me  to  go  and 
drink  coffee  with  his  fecretary.    But  I  went  on  board, 

leaving 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT. 


.S,~ 


leaving  my  interpreter  to  bring  the  letters  i  OQ  which 
the  Iccreiary  fent  me  a  Iheep,  The  Qiclk  iet  me  know 
by  my  interpreter,  thai  he  advifed  me  to  fee  Carnac^t. 
and  Luxerein  now,  and  nor,  as  I  propofed,  at  my  re-_ 
mm ;  for  as  he  was  going  to  encamp  there,  I  (hould 
fee  every  thing  with  the  greater  fafety. 

I  very  readily  complied  with  his  advice,  and  on  the 
1 2th  proceeded  with  a  man  the  fheik  had  fent  to  con- 
duft  me ;  and  flopping  oppofite  to  Zenieh,  where  the 
fbcik  of  Carnack  has  his  refidence,  I  the  next  day 
went  to  that  ihcik,  with  a  letter  I  had  from  his  fupe- 
rior,  and  the  fheik  of  Fourlhout  ■,  and  making  him  a 
prefcni,  he  treated  me  civilly,  and  fent  me  a  Sheep  in 
return.     I  now  went  to  Carnack,  which  is  part  of  the 
antient  Thebes,  where  there  are  ruins  of  a  moft  mag-  . 
nificent  temple  :  but  on  my  beginning  to  meafure  the.  < 
firlt  gate  I  came  to,  the  man  the  flieik  of  Fourfhout  : 
had  fent  with  me,  who  had  no  authority  here,  told ,. 
mc,  I  mull  not  venture  to  do  fo,  without  thepermiC-'", 
fion  of  the  great  fheik,  who  had  encamped  near  the  . 
river ;  on  which,  ordering  him  to  conduift  me  to  him, ;, 
he  brought  me  to  the  village  of  Carnack,  where!  ., 
found  the  fhcik  I  had  been  with  in  the  morning,  who  . 
freely  gave  mc  leave  to  meafure  and  write  down  what  . 
I  pleafed  -,  on  which  1  returned  to  the  temple  i  the  ,i 
flicik  himfclf  (laid  vnih  me  there  two  or  three  hours,, 
and  the  people  of  the  village,  feeing  me  meafuring,^^ 
came  about  me.     I  dined  in  the  temple;  and  having., 
ordered  my  boat  to  lie  near  the  flieik's  camp,  I,  ia., 
the  evening,  waited  on  him  in  his  tent ;  on  which  he'  ^ 
intfiicd  me  to  fup  with  his  fecreiary  :  but  I  excufcd  |  j 
myfeif,  and  returned  to  my  boat,  accompanied  by 
the  fccrctary,  who  coming  on  board,  partook  of  fomc^^. 
refreOtments.     Thefc  encampments  are  in  the  regular    , 
manner  of  an  army  :   in  tin:  middle  was  the  large  .. 
green  tent  of  the  Ihciks,  who  fat  in  a  corner  of  it,  ._ 
accompanied  by  three  or  four  of  his  officers.     In  this  ;' 
manner  rhey  encamp  about  ihcir  territories  to  gee  in  ,1 
-^'^-  tributes,  which  arc  paid  in  kind.     I  conttj — -* 


i^o.      POCOCKE  and  NORDEir* 

*here,and  had  the  liberty  of  viewing  the  temple  at 
often  as  I  pleafed  ;  the  men  conftantiy  drcfling  my 
dinner  in  rhc  o.,ar,  .;nd  bringing  it  to  the  temple. 
The  cavalc  A't.  b^luiigi:.^  to  the  Jhfik  one  day  pafling 
by,  a  great  nii.iber  ot  pcrfons  rode  into  the  temple 
and  talked  to  me :  I  was  alfo  once  vifited  there  by 
the  (heik's  fon  of  the  place,  who  conducted  me  to  a 
part  of  the  temple  inhabited  by  women,  and  giving 
them  notice  to  keep  out  of  the  way,  J  went  in  and 
viewed  it.  One  day  likewife^  the  Caia,  or  firft  offi- 
cer of  the  fheik,  came  and  dined  ,  with  me,  and  I 
made  him  a  prefent  ^  which  he  returned,  by  fending 
me  a  lamb« 

[The  great  and  famous  city  of  Thebes  was  on  both 
fides  of  the  river  ^  according  to  fome  it  was  built  by 
Ofiris,  and  according  to  others,  by  Bufiris  the  fecond. 
It  was  called  Diofpolis,  or  the  city  of  Jupiter,  and 
afterward  it  obtained  the  name  of  I'hebes.  It» 
opulence  and  power  were  every  where  known,  and 
Homer  thus  fpeaks  of  it : 

*  Not  all  proud  Thebes'  unrlval'd  walls  contain. 
The  world's  great  emprefs  on  th'  Egyptian  plain^ 
That  fpreads  her  conquells  o'er  a  thouiand  ftates. 
And  pours  her  heroes  through  a  hundred  gates. 
Two  hundred  horl'cmen,  and  two  hundred  cars, 
From  each  wide  portal  ilTuing  to  the  wars.'   PopEit 

Diodorus  Hiys, — *  We  have  heard,  that  not  only  this 
king  but  many  of  liis  iucccflbrs  were  ambitious  to 
improve  the  city  with  preicnts  of  gokl  and  filver,  with 
ivorv  and  a  multitude  of  cololiiil  itarucs,  and  that  ■ 
thtre  was  no  ciry  under  tlu*  lun  i^}  adorned  with  obe- 
liiks  of  ont:  entire  llonc.      ihv*  IxiilJings  indeed  have" 
remained  to  modern  times,  but  tlic:  eoid  and  filver, 
and  all  the  coftly  ivory  and  j»ccious  ttuhcs,  were  pil- 
Icigr-d  by  the  Pcrfians  when  Caiuhyfes  iet  fire  to  the-  • 
tcrinplcs  of  Kgy}:'t.     So  <.v-eat,   tfiey  lay,    were  the  ■ 
riches  of  H^ypi  at  thai  :i  -a-,  tlu-:  trbm  the  rubbifh, 

after 


TRAVELS  thKWgh.  EGYPT:       igtt 

af^er  plundering.and. burning,  was  takcrtmate  diw 
300  talenis  ot'gold,  and  of  filvera^oocaleiie.'] 

The  hundred  gates  above  mcniioood,  arc  ( 
monly  ttiouglit  to  have  been  tlve  ^tes>  of  (he  < 
but  there  are  no  figns  of  walls  rouod.  ii,  nor  -' 
walled  towns  compion  in  Eg)'pt :  however,  ^  1 
obferved  that  200  armed  chariots  could  be  lent  c 
of  them,  others  rather  fuppofe  them  to  belong  i 
palaces  of  the  princes  and  great  men,  who  coiild»  o«j^ 
an  emergency,  fend  chariots  10  the  war.    Of  the  iowi 
remarkable  temples,  that  which!  now  viewed,  war- 
doubtlefs  that  mentioned  by  Diodorus  ficulus,  as  of  f 
a  moft  extraordinary  fizej  ihe  ruins  of  this  ituptnd- 
ous  building  extending  pear  half  a  mile  in  length: 
the  defcripiion  he  here  gives  of  the  htight  and  (hi 
nefs  of  the  walls,  has  been  thought  to  be  very  ex 
vagant,  and  beyond  all  the  rule  of  probability;  ya 
it  will  appear  to  any  one  who  examines  the  rema!iii,'i^ 
of  the  temple,  that,  in  both  thefc  rcfpccti,  they  in  b 
fome  parts  <xceeJ  the  account  given  by  D  o-Jorus.       .1 

I  have  fully  examined  thel'c  aoble  ::  '  ■  i 

ftieik's  fon  offering  to  go  widi  me  i' 
eaft  oi  Camack,  1  gladly  accepted  ot'  1  .   1 

he  came  early  in  tKc  moming  to  the  ooy.  v.;.,;  ivjr.'t.  1 
Upon  this  1  laid  a  carpet  00  the  bank  of  thi:  rivcftM 
and  having  entertained  him  with  co^,  we  jet  lotvrf 
ward  toward  the  temple,  accompanied  aifu  by  tho't 
caia,  or  (tcward of  the  great  ibcik.     in  tb.sexcur3(.axk 
we  faw,  thut  the  ground,  where  Jt  ii  fo-'.-T,  !<  !a  d  in  V/ 
broad  low  hilkKks  ^  round  which  tr.  . 
regular  channels,  the  corn  not  bt.. 
top,  but  only  near  the  channels,  in  '  ' 
-be  themorc  1.  -'■■-■ 
I*>Uc  whuh  :    I 

200  feet  to  h.  ,    . 

gate,  ado^neu  wiui  i^ur  ui  1" 

phics.  .  All  Uus  temple  is  .-.  .^ 


T9S       FOCOC^E  and  NORD£N's 

Strand  gate  is  however  entire,  and  I  law  near  it  i 
phynx  about  four  feet  long.  The  antient  city  of 
Thebes  probably  extended  to  this  place.  Returning, 
I  viewed  the  ruins  of  what  I  fuppofe  to  be  a  round 
temple :  it  appeared  to  have  been  175  feet  in  diame- 
ter, and  to  the  weft  of  ic  were  (bme  remains  of  a  grand 
gateway. 

On  my  return,  I  entertained  my  condudors  with 
cofiee  at  the  boat ;  and  the  fheik's  fon  having  (hewn 
me  great  civility,  I  made  him  fuch  a  pre^nt  as  I 
thought  would  be  agreeable  to  him.  Two  days  after 
I  went  to  fee  that  part  of  Thebes  which  was  to  the 
weft  of  the  river,  and  Is  now  called  Gournou.  On 
my  going  on  that  fide,  I  fent  to  the  fheik,  to  whom 
I  had  a  letter  from  the  great  (heik  of  Fourfhout ;  on 
which  he  came  to  the  boat,  and  conduced  me  to  his 
houfe  at  the  village  of  Gournou.  The  fheik  there  fur- 
nilhed  me  with  horfes,  and  we  fet  out  to  go  to  Bibari' 
cl-Meluke.  When  we  had  proceeded  about  a  mile 
to  the  north,  we  came  to  a  kind  of  ftreit ;  for  the 
rocky  ground  on  each  fide  rifing  about  ten  feet  high, 
had  on  each  hand  a  row  of  rooms  cut  in  it,  fome  of 
them  fupported  with  pillars;  and  as  there  is  not 
here  the  leaft  fign  of  raifed  buildings,  I  could  not 
help  imagining,  that  in  the  earlieft  times,  thefe  ca- 
verns might  fcrve  as  houfes,  and  be  the  firft  inven- 
tion after  that  of  tents,  when  they  might  be  contrived 
as  a  better  (helter  from  the  weather,  and  the  coldnefs 
of  the  nights. 

At  length  having  pafled  through  fome  other  val- 
leys where  the  mountains  arife  to  a  great  height, 
we  came  to  a  round  opening  like  an  amphitheatre, 
and  afcending  it  by  a  narrow  fteep  pafiage,  came  to 
Biban-el-Meluke,  that  is.  The  Gate,  or  Court  of  the 
Kings ;  here  being  the  fepulchres  of  the  kings  of 
Thebes.  The  vale  where  thefe  grottos  are  is  covered 
with  rough  ftones,  that  feem  to  have  rolled  from 
above;  it  may  be  about  100  feet  wide,  and  the  hills 
on  each  fide  are  high  fteep  rocks,  in  which  the  grot- 
4  tos 


TRXVELS  ihreiigK  5ifiYI»T: 

tos  are  cut  in  a  mod  beautiful  manner  in  long  piiTi 
and  galleries  under  the  moiinums,  out  or  a  > 
white  fretitonc,  tliat  cuts  lik-  cUalk.  and  is  as  fmw 
^  the  fif.eft  llucco  work,  toor  or  fiveot*  cheic 
lerics,  ouc  within  another,  fi^im  30  to  50  tcct  ]i 
and  from  10  to  15  feet  high,  generally  lc4d  to  a  i 
cious  room,  in  which  is  the  king's  tomb,  wiih  t 
Hgurc  ciit  in  rclic-f  on  the  hd,.  or  painted  at  : 
length  upon  ir.  Both  the  fides  and  ceiling  of  t!ic 
are  cut  wiih  hieroglyphics  of  birds  and  beaits,  for 
of  them  p.iintcd,  and  as  frefh  as  if  they  were  I 
iuft  finifhcd,  though  t!iey  muft  be  above  2000  )ei 
old.  One  of  thcfe  fcpulchres*  in  particular*  is  mo) 
beautifully  adorned  with  hieroglyphics  cut  in  I 
flnne  and  painted.  The  king's  tomb  is  of  one  At 
of  red  granite,  it:vcn  feet  nine  inches  high,  eleven  i 
eight  inches  long,  and  above  fix  feet  bread,  the  coi 
being  made  to  Ihut  into  it.  Upon  it  is  cut  iheliS;uii 
of  the  king  in  mezzo- relievo,  with  an  hieroglyphical  iA 
fcriptijn.  Tiie  room  is  adorned  with  different  colunmn 
of  hieroglyphics,  with  the  figures  of  men,  bulb  a 
hawks. 

Having  Vu!i  .the  utmoft  plcafqrc  viewed  t'lefc  e:c 
fraordinary  fcpulchirs  of  the  kings  of  Thebes, 
the  help  of  the  wax-lights  we  brought  with  us,  ! 
ing  much  tangued,  we  agreed  to  fji  down  and  t; 
fonift  refreftiments  in  this  retired  place -.,  but  unfur 
tunjteiy  we  had  forgot  to  bring  water,  and  the  ftit-., 
being  in  halie  10  go,  we  returned  ;  and  at  our  anivaj 
at  tiie  boat,  the  .(hcik  was  fy  oijiiging  as  to  liay  m  ' 
eat  vith  me,  which  they  rard?  do.  One  wi>ulti  t 
spt  to  imag'uie  that  tljele  were  habiiations  for  the  J-  .- 
ing,  and  (hat  they  wete  cut  under  the  palaces  of  I'n 
kings  of  Thelic-s,.  if  ihcy  were  not  thcinlelve.  ju 
l,iccs  fur  them  to  TLtire  to  iri  order  to  avoid  the  huL, 

From  hence  I  went  and  took  a  pinictilar  vipv/  o_ 
the  ruin>  of  a  hr^c' temple,  a  little  way  to  the  iw  h»n, 
eaft,  ,  Ap  a  dil>^r»ct&uin  it  arc  tht  ruins  of  a  tJyw-  ^ 
mid»l|iatc,  and  of  a  very  lirgccolalTal  ftatoc,  ^kt:,, 
off  about  the  middJe  of  the  trunk  ;  it  is  2  1  KcL  broad 

i¥4,    -,*  o  ■ 


194       POCOCKE  andNORDEN"* 

at  th;i  nioulders  v  the  ear  is  thrte  feet  long,  and  from- 
the  top  of  the  head  to  the  bottom  of  the  neck  is  1 1 
feet.  In  the  firft  court  of  the  temple  arc  two  rows 
of  fqiLire  pillar?,  on  each  fide  of  which  Is  a  ftatue  j 
but  th=  heads  of  all  of  them  ate  broke  off.  Thefc 
Hatucs  have  each,  the  iitum  in  one  hand,  and  the 
flagellum  or  whip  in  the  other,  as  commonly  feen  in 
the  ftatucs  of  Oliris.  A  great  number  of  pillars  be- 
longing to  the  temple  are  ftanding,  and  many  others 
are  dcltroyed  :  but  from  the  ruins  it  appears  ro  have 
been  a  magnificent  ftrufture.  [In  this  cdiBcc  we  ob- 
fcrve  two  forts  of  pillars,  one  more  beautiful  than 
the  other.  Their  thicknefs  and  folidity  give  them  a 
delightful  appearance  at  a  diftance  -,  on  approaching 
them,  the  hieroglyphics  arc  agreeable  to  the  fight; 
and  when  you  are  quits  near,  their  colours  have  a 
fine  elfeft.  This  fort  of  painting  has  neither  Ihade 
nor  degra.lation.  The  figures  are  incrufled  like  the 
enan-iel  on  ilie  dial-plates  of  watches,  with,  this  dif- 
ference, thac  ihey  cannot  be  detached.  .1  mud  own 
thai  this  iiicrufted  matter  furpafies  in  ftrength  ewrj 
thing  I  have  ffren  of  this  kind.  It  is  fupenor  to  the 
Al-n-efco  or  mofaic  work  v  and  has  the  advantage  oi 
lafting  a  longer  time.  It  is  furprifing  to  fee  how  the 
gold,  ultramarine,  and  other  colours  have  preicrvcd 
their  luftre  to  the  prcfcnt  age.] 

From  this  temple  1  went  to  the  ftatucs,  which  I 
ftiall  call  the  coloffai  Ilatues  of  Memnonj  but  the 
Iheik  hurried  me  from  thence,  (aying  he  was  near  his 
enemies ;  1  however  went  to  them  again  early  in  the 
morning,  and  fpent  above  half  a  day  at  them.  [Thcfe 
coloflal  figures  front  the  Nile.  The  firft  fcems  ta 
reprefent  a  man,  and  the  other  a  woman ;  they  are 
both  50  feet  in  height,  from  the  bafcs  of  the  pedef- 
tals  to  the  fummit  of  the  head.  They  are  fitting 
upon  ftones  almoft  cubical/  of  15  feet  in  height;  on 
phin  pedeftals,  five  feet  high.]  The  ftatue  to  the 
north  has  been  broken  ofi^  at  the  middle,  and  has 
been  built  up  with  five  tier  of  ftones  -,  but  the  otfaet 
is  of  one  Tingle  ftoac :  the  fc?t  have  the  toes  broken 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      ig$ 

bff",  and  the  features  are  mouldered  awiy  by  time. 
The  fides  of  the  feats,  upon  which  they  are  fitting, 
are  covered  over  with  hieroglyphical  figures  ;  on  the 
pedeftal  of  the  imperfciJl  ftatuc  is  a  Greek  epigram; 
and  on  the  infteps  and  legs  are  feveral  infcriptions  in 
Greek  and  Latin,  fome  being  epigrams  in  honour  of 
Memnon  i  but  the  greater  part  are  teftimonies  of 
thofe  who  have  heard  his  found  :  for  one  of  them  has 
been  thought  by  fome  to  be  the  funous  ftaiue  of 
Memnon,  which  at  the  firft  and  fecond  hour,  they 
pretend,  uttered  a  found  occafioned  by  the  rays  of 
the  fun  ftrikingon  it. 

At  a  fmall  diftance  from  thefe  ftaiues  arc  the  ruing 
of  feveral  others.  Having  taken  a  full  view  of  ihtfc 
things,  we  returned  to  the  river. 

WhUe  1  was  abfent,  the  natives  having  taken  um- 
brage at  my  copying  the  infcriptions,  came  to  the 
boat,  and  faid,  that  they  would  fee  whether  this  ftran- 
ger  would  dare  to  come  out  another  day  i  dropping 
fome  exprcffions  as  if  they  would  afTaulc  the  boat  by 
night :  lor  they  fecmed  very  dcfirous  of  my  leaving 
the  place,  from  their  being  ftrongly  poflTefled  of  the 
notion,  that  the  Europeans  have  the  power  of  difco- 
vering  treafurcs.  I  however  talked  of  going  abroad 
the  next  day,  being  defirous  of  feeing,  if  poITiblc, 
the  temple  of  Medinet  Habou  ;  but  the  fheik  com- 
ing to  the  boat,  and  being  informed  of  what  had  paf- 
led,  advifcd  me  to  depart.  But  I  faw  this  place  on 
my  return. 

1  then  proceeded  up  the  river  a  fmill  league  to 
Luxercin  or  Lafcor.  On  my  arrival  there,  m  the 
morning,  I  carried  a  letter  and  a  prefent  to  the  Jheik  i 
and  the  (lieik  of  Carnack's  (on  came  to  me  there, 
provided  a  dinner  for  me,  and  wa^  fo  obliging  as 
to  ftay  with  mc  all  day.  1  there  viewed  the  remnins 
of  (lie  large  and  magnificent  temple,  which  was  doubt- 
left  a  part  of  the  antient  Thrbcs  on  the  eift  fide  of 
the  river.  This  noble  building  agrees  with  the  dc- 
fcriptton  Diodorus  gives  of  the  fepukhttof  Ofymati- 
dun,  which  he  fays  was  a  mile  uvl  t  ^MLUct  \t\  <:>.t- 


196       POCOCKEand   NORDEN's 

cumfercncc.  He  fays  it  had  this  infcripiion,  •*  I  >m' 
OJymandus,  kini;  of  kings.  If  any  one  is  defirous 
to  know  how  great  I  am,  and  where  I  lie,  let  him 
furpafi  any  of  my  wcrks." 

\Ve  firfl:  conic  to  two  obelifki,  that  are  probably 
the  fintft  in  the  world;  ihjy  arc  nov/ Co  feet  high 
ab'ive  t'lC  groiiiid,  and  migh;  be  70  or  80,  according 
as  the  ground  has  liitn,  which  is  evidently  a  great 
deal,  ihty  arc  T  ^-en  t"«t  and  a  half  fquare,  and  at 
bottom  might  be  ci^ht  ftcr.  The  hieroglyphics, 
which  are  in  thn  c  tuki  rns  down  each  fide,  are  cut 
wirh  a  fiat  bvtrrjm  an  inJi  and  a  half  deep;  and  thj 
granite  has  pcrlccliy  rctalDcd  its  polilh,  which  is  the 
fincll  I  ever  fiw.  On  thi;  top,  on  each  fide,  a  per- 
fon  fits  on  a  tli.or.!',  an'i  orx  ofF-rs  fomething  on  his 
knees :  thefc  fii^'Jivs  arc  likcwilc  below.  Lower 
down  are  three  h^wks,  thc.T  thrtc  bulls ;  and  at  about 
the  diftancc  <.f  cvciv  ibo:  is  an  owl.  I  alfo  obfcrvcd 
monlceys,  hares  diips  firpcnts,  birds,  the  headset 
caiTieI>iind  irjlLcr. ;  but  iiiioiit  half  the  pyramid  of 
the  weiVcrn  obtrlifk  is  Irokcn  off",  and  the  fbuth-weft 
corner  of  the  ea'iltrn  o:;c  is,  lur  about  fix  feat  high,  a 
little  battered. 

At  a  little  dillance  h  a  pyramid  at  a  gate  200  feet 
long,  and  at  prefcnt  5.;  above  the  •;;round.  On  eadi 
fide  of  the  cntn.itc  !'>  a  coIoUjI  (1.iluc,  13  feet  and  a 
half  above  the  gruund  :  iluy  arc  of  grey  granite,  and 
the  fhouldtra  arc  (;nly  tlir:e  feet  and  a  h-tf  above  the 
furface  of  the  canli.  In  ti.c  I'lOn:  of  the  pyramidal  gate 
arc  windows,  and  ivtil|-:t:7e,  '.'.-iriiculariy  a  pcrfon  feated 
OR  athrone,  h'dJin;^  out  ty.K  hnnd,  which  has  a  fcepffc 
or  a-ftalf  irj  it,  and  I'urroundcd  by  oshers  in  pofturcj 
of  adovati'jii.  On  the  other  fide,  a  pcrfon  is  irpie- 
fcntcd  in  acr.r,  as  gall{>j)ir.g  and  Pi'KKing  witha  bow,. 
with  many  (hariots  after  him  :  thii  inay  have  a  rela- 
ti'in  t>  tiiC  v.-ars  r;f  thi;  kinjx  ;i,",ainfi  the  Baclrians.. 
Within  thiv  gate  is  a  c.iiirt  almoJl  filled  up  with  cot- 
tagesjwi'h  (-nne  pjILtrs,  tl.at  <jnce  compoled  part  of- 
acol'jriadc;  bi-yondwhi'-h  was  another  gate,  thatisnow 
in  ruii;sj  and  beyond  it  another  court,  which  con- 
Mined 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.       197 

• 

tained  the  hiftory  of  the  king  cut  all  roun^^pn  the 
walls,  and  had  a  l&rge.  and  beautiful  altar  Si;  the 
middle.  The  pillars  in  this  court  are  40  feet  fiigh  ; 
but  the  work  in  the  capitals  is  not  in  relief,  but  only 
cut  out*  in  lines.  The  wajls  of  the  rooms  are 
adorned  with  fculpture.  A  deiry  is  carried  in  a  fort 
of  a  boat  by  18  men,  preceded  and  followed  by  a 
perfon  holding  a  particular  enfign.  I  alfo  obferved 
on  the  walls  a  man  leading  four  bulls  \v":th  a  ftring ; 
a  perfon  fitting,  and  another  kneeling  to  him :  alfo 
inftruments  of  mufic,  and  men  kneeling  who  have 
the  heads  of  hawks. 

In  the  evening  I  left  Luxerein,  and  Linded  at  Er- 
menc  on  the  weft,  the  antirnt  city  of  Hermonthis, 
the  capital  of  a  province  of  that  name.  We  went 
to  the  houfe  of  the  (heik,  who  conducted  us  to  the 
old  city  in  the  midft  of  a  large  plain,  where  are  the 
remains  of  a  fmall  temple  adorned  with  hieroglyphics 
both  within  and  without,  that  feems  by  the  many 
hawks  cut  in  it,  to  have  been  dedicated  to  Apollo.  At 
fbme  diftance  are  the  remains  of  a  beautiful  building, 
that  appears  too  g'-anJ  for  a  Chrillian  church  on  the 
firft  eftablifhmentof  Chriftianiry  in  the  fourth  century;- 
yet  it  has  crofles  cut  on  fomc  of  the  Hones,  with  Copric 
paintings  and  inlcriptions  in  many  parts  of  ir,  that  are 
plaftered :  there  are,  however,  little  remains  of  the  edi- 
fice, except  at  the  weft  end,  where  the  rooms  had 
galleries  over  them,  which  might  be  for  the  women. 

On  the  I  f-th  of  January  we  went  on  with  very  little 
wind,  and  fhot  at  a  crocodile,  as  he  was  going  into 
the  water  from  a  fandy  ifle.  We  had  reafon  to  be- 
lieve the  ball  ftruck  him  •,  for  inftead  of  walking  in 
flowly,  as  is  ulual  with  them,  he  opened  his  mouth 
and  jumped  five  or  fix  feet  into  the  water.  The  next 
day  we  came  to  Elhe  on  the  weft,  a  confiderablc 
town  for  thofe  parts  ;  we  went  afhore  and  ftaid  about 
an  hour,  when  the  men  wanting  a  ftone  for  ballaft, 
the  people  knowing  I  was  an  European,  would  not 
fee  them  take  it  into  the  boat  ^  faying,  that  if  the 

O  3  ¥\^YvV»Sk 


19?        POCOCKE  and  NORDEN's 

Franks  took  av/ij  that  ftone,  they  would,  by  their 
magic  art,  draw  away  their  hidden  treafurcs.  This 
place,  and  the  antiquities  about  it,  I  faw  in  my  re- 
turn. I  had  letters  to  the  cafhif,  who  was  then  ab- 
fent ;  but  I  had  feen  him  before,  and  his  people  were 
ready  to  go  with  me.  I  carried  letters  and  a  prcfent 
to  one  ot  the  fcrifs,  who  went  with  me  to  ,i<re  the 
temple.  [It  is  clofcd  on  three  fides,  and  in  the  front 
are  24  columns  that  appeared  well  prcfcrved.  It  is 
remarkable,  that  in  all  this  temple  one  capital  of  a 
column  does  not  refemble  another ;  the  proportion 
is  the  fame,  but  the  ornaments  are  di&rcitt.  The 
infide  of  this  edifice  is  blackened  by  the  fmoke  of 
iirc  formerly  made  there  1  however,  all  the  parts  arc 
well  prefcrved,  except  the  gate,  and  the  interme- 
diate fpaces  between  the  front  columns,  which  have 
been  filled  up  by  the  Arabs,  in  order  to  fhuc  up  th«r 
(lattlc  in  the  temple,  which  at  prdcnt  fervcs  for  no 
qther  ufe.] 

We  alfo  went  about  three  miles  to  the  north-weft 
to  fee  another  temple,  which  I  conjeflured  might  be 
the  temple  of  Pallas,  at  Latopolis,  where  both  that 
goddefs  and  the  fifh  Latus  were  worfliipped.  Oit 
the  infide  are  three  ftories  of  hieroglyphics  of  men 
jibout  three  feet  high,  and  at  one  end  the  loweft 
figures  are  as  big  as  the  life ;  one  of  them,  I  ot^ervedf 
had  the  head  of  the  Ibis  j  and  in  feveral  parts  of  the 
wall  I  faw  the  figure  of  a  woman  fitting.  TUs 
temple  appears  to  have  been  ufed  as  a  church  j  for  I 
faw  fome  Coptic  infcriptions  in  black  letters  on  the 
walls,  and  was  told  that  there  had  been  a  convent 
there. 

A  mile  to  thefouth  of  Efne  is  the  monaftery  of  St, 
Helena,  by  whom  it  is  f^d  to  have  been  founded;  but 
it  has  been  more  commonly  called  the  Convent  (^thc 
Martyrs.  Here  is  a  great  burial  ground,  not  Icfs 
than  a  mile  round.  Many  of  the  tombs  are  magni- 
ficent, they  having  a  dome  on  four  arches,  with  a 
littl?  cupola  on  the  top,  The  convent,  with  its 
church* 


■        TRAVELS  tlirougli  EGYPT.        199 

church,  arc  however  but  mean  :  there  are  only  rw 
monks  in  it,  who  cannot  marry  ;  but  their  relation! 
both  women  and  children,  live  with  ihem.  This  i 
the  laft  church  in  Egypt. 

On  the  20th  we  ca,mc  to  Etfou,  which  was  once  the 
Great  Apollinopolis.     I  went  to  the  (heik's  hoiife, 
with  a  letter  from  the  ftieik  of  Fourffaout.     When  he 
knew  who  it  was  from,  he  kifTed  the  letter  and  put 
it  to  his  forehead,  as  a  mark  of  relpedt     I  made  liim 
a  handfome  prefent,  which  he  received  with  ^ 
civiiity ;  and  when  the  letter  was  read,  and  I  dellrcdi 
to  fee  the  ruins,  he  put  his  hand  up  to  his  head,  as  i 
mark  of  his  compliance,  and  that  he  took  mc  undel 
his  proteftion.     He  himielf  went  with  me  and  Ihcwed 
mc  the  temple,  and  a  grand  pyramiJal  gate.     [T 
laft  monument  of  antiquity  is  perfcdly  well  prefervcdi  1 
but  the  Turks  have  converted  it  into  a  citidcl.  ThereJ 
runs  all  round  a  femi-circular  corona,  fuch  as  is  com-' 
tnonly  feen  round  the  Egyptian  buildings.     No  cor- 
nice is  to  be  feen  about  the  edifice ;  but  it  may  have 
been  ruined,  or  have  fallen  down.     This  edifice  is  in 
general  well  deligned,  and  its  fimplicity  gives  it  i 
very  pretty  appearance.     The  other  antique  monu- 
ment is  the  temple  which  was  dedicated  to  Apolloi, 
but  the  greatclt  part  of  it  is  buried  under  ground, 
and  the  Arabs  have  made  no  fcruple  of  empIoyii^J 
what  they  have  been  able  to  take  away,  in  makin^J 
fome  vile  pigeon- boufes.] 

While  1  was  meafuring  the  ruins  of  the  temple, 
great  many  pcrlbns  cime  about  me,  and  on  my  giving 
my  book  to  a  fcrvant  to  hold  fur  me,  a  young  man,! 
who  was  the  fheik's  nephew,  Outchcd  it  out  of  hitj 
hand,  and  ran  away  with  it.  The  flicik  and  my  fer-j 
vant  ran  after  him.  Mean  whik  I  continued  meafur'. 
ing  and  writing  on  another  piper,  till  the  fheik  r 
lurncd  with  bis  pike,  having  thrown  off  his  .outwai 
garment  when  he  went  in  fear  h  of  hisneplicw,  whom 
it  is  faid  he  would  have  killed  had  he  overtaken  hiir 
The'brothcri  had  been  competitors  for  the  g 


200        POCOCKE  and  NORDEN's 

nicnt  of  this  village  ;  and  the  fiieik  now  conduflcc^ 
me  to  his  houte,  where  matters  were  carried  fe^t* ' 
that  I  ^':'as  afrjid  wc  lliould  have  fuffercd  in  thr^ 
n:UiC,  tl-.c  brother  being  favoured  by  many  of  wli^- 
p'eopi-?.  I  was  defirous  of  poing  to  the  boat-,  bot 
v:iz  toiii,  that  the  Ihcilc  would  be  offended  if  I  ditf 
rDt  ft"y  iij  cat  with  him.  I  was  privately  informed 
th;'.t  I  iri^'h:  have  my  rote  book,  if  I  would  give 
abc".;r  the  value  of  a  crown  ;  to  which  I  confented, 
fliul  it  v:z3  accordingly  brought  me.  "We  now  fat 
down  to  e.'.t  out  ot  a  lartie  wooden  bowl,  full  of 
thin  cske,';  broke  inm  firall  bits,  with  a  fyriip  mixed 
with  them  :  but  the  ftcik  fat  at  a  diftance,  and  would 
n  Jt  (.at  v;ith  us.  Afterward  he  mounted  his  horie, 
nnd  attcnc'e;!  me  to  the  boat,  followed  by  feveral 
perlons ;  and  hnving  made  me  a  prefcnt  of  a  flieep, 
cziv.t:  into  trie  boat,  ind  ordered  a  letter  to  be  writ- 
ten to  tiie  gr',  nt  fncik.  About  an  hour  after  the  fheik 
Icf:  u;,  hi;;  Ibn  came  riding  to  the  river,  to  inform 
i;-,  t'lr.t  his  t'z:h-:T  having  been  tnkl  I  had  given  mo- 
1"  ;■■  to  iv.:\e  my  b<Jok  rclloretl,  had  oblig(5them  to 
r?;i.r:'.  i:,  and  h^d  fcnt  it  to  me.  Thus  this  worthy' 
Ar.:b  nave  :in  iiillance  of  fidvlity  that  is  rarely  to  be 
i^'c::  v.itii. 

Wt  no-.v  lii  led  on,  «nd  as  we  approached  toward 
V.:';rr  ,'?iltii; ,  t'lc  ro<'.5  on  the  weftern  (hore appeared 
;'.s  i-'  cut  I'oi-  a  tM-and  gateway,  A  little  farther  to  the 
iMiih,  I  i.nv  live  regular  entrances  into  grottos,  cut 
(■c!i:r,i!y  difr-itit  in  the  rock,  and  above  them  a  cor- 
n:,--,  or  half  round,  fecmed  to  have  crowned  the 
wori: ;  b'-it  only  the  lialf  round  remained.  Procecd- 
i.^n;  tn  Haiar  Silcity,  or  the  rock  of  the  chain,  the 
Nih'gre-v  txci-L'ding  narrow  and  rapid;  for  1  fup- 
pDie  it  is  not  above  loo  yards  wide,  the  rocks  en- 
croaching i:pon  tl^e  river  nn  each  fide.  It  had  its 
r.Rn)ii  from  a  cluin  being  formerly  drawn  acrofs,  to 
d'  f>-nd  the  pais  j  and  I  was  Iliewn  a  rock  on  the  eaft-' 
litie,  where  I  was  told  the  chain  was  faftencd. 

■  [On 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT. 


^^f-T 


^ 


'  '  [On  the  infidos  of  the  grottos  there  is  not  fiifHcicnt  t 
day-light  to  di'ltinguifh  objefts  i  tlie  light  entering', 
only  at  the  door  of 'each  grotto  :  this  gave  mc  fomc. 
concern,  but  at  length  I  prrceived  an  opening  at  thc' 
top,  which  allowed  mc  thc  view  of  four  figures  in 
aito  relievo.  They  are  of  the  natural  fizei  two  nieni 
fit  in  the  middle,  with  their  arms  laid  acrofs  their 
brcafts,  and  on|cach  fide  fits  a  woman,  who  takes  hold 
of  the  arm  of  the  man  who  is  next  her.  I  could  not 
avoid  fce!ing.ajuft  deteftuion  at  the  malice  and  fupcr- 
iKtton  of  thffJTurks  and  Ar.-ibs.  who  have  ftrangely 
dfeformed  th^fe  figures,  efpcciall)'  in  the  face.  Oa* 
one  fide  of  t!ib  group  is  an  hieroglyph ical  table,  cut 
in  baflb  relie^'O,  *ith  much  pains ;  ;!nd  what  gives  it 
a  great' value  is,  its  being  perfcAly  well  prcferved  to 
the  prefcm  time  i  thotigh  the  ro'ckin  which  all  thefe 
Rtottos  arc  cut,  confifts  only  of  a  yellowilh  findy 
n-one.  The  hieroglyphical  tabic  probably  contains 
the  epitaphs  of  the  perfons  whofc  bodies  have  been 
inclofed  in  this  grotto.J 

■  A  liitic  above  this  place  the  Nile  rcfumed  its  natu- 
ral breadch,  and  there  is  a  fandy  ground,  with  a  gentle 
alfcenl  on  each  fide.  We  afterward  pafiTcd  by  Jcvcral 
fandy  idands,  on  which  we  faw  many  crocodiles  ;  par- 
tifcularly  on  one  there  were  near  20  of  ihcm,  which 
fftmed  to  be  from  15  to  30  feet  long.  On  ourlhoot-  I 
ing  at  them,  about  half  of  them  went  into  the  watcrj. 
and  on  our  firing  a  fecond  time,  they  all  difippcared. 

Wc  afterward  came  to  a  Urge  iiland,  to  the  eaft  of  - 
which  is  the  village  of  Com-Ombo.     [The  principal  • 
monument  in  the  place  is  fituatcd  behind  a  mountain 
of  fand.  End  on  another  fide  is  concealed  by  Ibme 
miftrablc  cottages ;  but  thcfe  cannot  prevent  a  curi- 
ous traveller  contemplating  with    great  fatisfaftioB*J 
iltde  beaMtifijl  ruins.  Thc  building  rcfts  upon  twencjW^P 
thrfc  well  wrought  pillars,   adorned  with  hierogly-;! 
phicj.]  T 

'  Wc  now  proceeded  to  thc  port  of  Lalherrad,  where  ' 

£fluf  of  Elhe  was  encamped;   wc  would  have  J 
. S 


3oa       FOCOCKE  and  NORDEl^s 

palled  him,  but  hts  men  called  to  us,  and  the  boat- 
man did  not  dare  to  proceed.  We  were  thus  Hopped, 
becaule  by  the  covering  of  our  boat  we  were  judged 
to  be  Europeans.  I  had  letters  to  the  calhif ;  but 
did  not  know  that  he  was  the  pcrfon  to  whom  they 
were  directed.  I  carried  him  a  preTent  of  cofi^c,  to- 
bacco, and  fome  other  things ;  which  he  laid  I  had 
no  occaGon  to  give  him :  he  readily  con&nted  to  my 
feeing  the  antiquities  ;  but  the  Arab  fheiks  of  La(her< 
rad  being  prelent,  oppoled  it.  On  this  I  returned 
to  the  boat,  and  pafllng  by  feveral  iOands,  arrived  on 
the  evening  of  the  21ft  at  AlTouan,  a  poor  fmall 
town,  with  a  kind  of  fortrefs,  qr  rather  barracks  for 
the  janizaries,  who  have  in  reality  the  command  of 
the  country.  On  my  waiting  on  the  aga  of  the  jaiu- 
zaries  with  letters  from  Mullapha,  aga  of  the  janiza- 
ries at  Girge,  and  from  the  iheik  of  Fourfliout,  he 
treated  me  with  coffee,  and  made  me  a  prcfcnt  of  a 
lamb;  and,  in  return,  I  fent  him  a  prefent  of  tobacco^ 
rice,  cotFec,  and  other  things.  He  very  obligingly 
fent  two  janizaries  to  guard  the  boat,  and  invited  me 
to  take  a  lodging  in  an  apartment  diat  belonged  to 
his  own  lioufe,  though  feparace  from  it.  The  Chrif- 
tian  fccretaryof  the  caimacam,  or  civil  governor,  tel- 
ling me  that  I  fhould  make  his  mailer  a  prefent,  the 
people  and  jani^anes  about  the  boat  ordered  him  to 
get  out  of  it,  there  being  a  jealoufy  between  the  civil 
and  military  power.  The  aga,  on  being  informed  of 
this,  fcnt  me  word  that  I  need  not  make  prefents  to 
any  one  :  thb  he  repeated  on  my  waiting  upon  him, 
adding,  that  he  would  take  me  under  his  protection, 
fo  that  no  one  (hould  injure  me  ;  I  therefore  removed 
to  the  lodging  he  had  allotted.  A  Turk  bclong^g 
to  Ofman  bey,  who  happened  to  be  there,  kindly 
offered  his  advice  on  all  occafions,  vilited  me,  and 
brought  me  aprefent  of  a  dozen  of  pigeons 'and  fome 
dates.  Some  other  Turks  came  to  fee  me ;  and  one 
of  them,  as  a  token  of  refpeCi;,  brought  me  the 
Cii6ing  preicnt  c^  a  bunch  of  radilhes. 

On 


ft 


■         TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.       2oj 

On  the  eminence  over  Aflbuan  are  the  ruins  of  the 
amicnt  city  of  Syene,  which  is  exaftly  under  tlie  tro- 
pic of  Cancer;  but  the  principal  part  of  that  city 
fcems  to  have  been  on  a  lower  hill  lo  the  fouth.  About 
the  middle,  between  the  brow  of  the  hill  and  tJie 
river,  is  a  building,  that  may  pofTibly  be  the  obfer- 
-vaiory  dcfcribed  by  Sirabo,  as  creiited  over  a  well  for 
making  artronoinical  obfcrvations  :  the  holes  at  the 
top,  which  arc  much  larger  btlow  than  above,  1  ima- 
gine were  to  try  the  experiment  in  relation  to  the  (ha- 
dows  at  noon-day. 

Having  viewed  thefe  ruins»  I  went  about  a  mile  to 
the  fouth-eaft,  to  the  quarries  of  granite  i  for  tlic 
country  to  the  eaft,  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  the 
iflands,  are  all  red  granite.  'Jhe  quarries  are  not 
worked  in  deep;  but  the  ftone  is  hewn  out  of  the 
fides  of  the  low  hills.  1  obl'erved  fome  columns  and 
an  obelifk  marked  out  in  the  quarrie',  and  Ihaped  on 
two  fides :  they  feenied  to  have  worked  in  round  the 
Hones  with  a  narrow  tool,  and  when  the  ftones  were 
almoft  fcparatcd,  tlicy  probably  forced  them  out  with 
large  wedges. 

Oppofitc  to  Syene  is  the  itland  Elephantine*,  in 
which  was  a  city  of  that  name.  It  is  about  a  mile  in 
length,  and  at  the  fouth -end  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  breadth  :  but  co  the  north  it  ends  in  a  point.  In 
fhis  iOand  there  was  a  temple  to  Cnuphis,  and  a  nijo* 
meter,  to  meafurc  the  rile  of  the  Nile.  I  oblcrved 
there  the  remains  of  a  fmall  temple,  before  which  is 
a  ftatue  about  eight  feet  high,  fitting  with  the  bands 
acrofs  on  the  brcaft,  and  a  lituus  in  each.  On  a  wall 
before  the  temple  is  a  Greek  inlcription,  which  h  in 
many  parts  defaced.  In  the  midft  of  the  ifland  are 
remains  of  one  fide  of  a  niagnihccnt  gate  of  red  gra- 
nite, finely  adorned  with  hieroglyphics.  [Among 
other  ruins,  1  found  an  amicnt  edifice  fiill  ftanding, 
though  covered  witli  earth  at  the  top,  as  well  as  on 
the  lidc :  it  is  (till  called  the  temple  of  the  fcrpcnc 
Cauphts ;  but  it  rpfembles  a  fepukhral  monument 
Mr.  Norden  hy),  ihf  prerent  name  of  tlit  iflacd  Xi'^X-^'*^ 


S0+       POCOCKE  and  NORDEN** 

more  than  a  temple.  It  is  inclofcd  by  a  kind  of  cloyf- 
ter,  fupported  by  cohimns.  This  jncloJurc  contains 
a  grand  apartment  that  has  two  large  gates,  the  one  to 
the  north,  the  other  to  the  fouih  i  and  the  infide  is 
almoft  entirely  filled  with  ftones  and  earth.  The  walls, 
covered  with  hieroglyphics,  arc  bedaubed  with  dirt, 
and  blackened  by  the  fmoke  of  fires  made  there  by 
thellicpherds.  In  the  niiiill  of  that  aparttnent  I  ob- 
fervcd  a  plain  fquare  table,  without  any  infcripiion, 
and  imagined  that  there  might  be  underneath  an  urn 
or  mummy,  ar.d  1  was  tempted  to  get  it  lifted  up;  but 
the  fuperltition  of  the  fwople  would  not  permit  it. 
A  traveller  would  thinii  himlelf  happy,  in  having  die 
liberty  to  oblcrve  theft-  antient  edifices  in  quiet  -,  and 
lie  mult  notitrcmpt  any  thing  farther.  I  Ihall  never 
forg.t  that,  on  our  calling  anchor  before  Aflbuan, 
the  populace  ran  in  crouds  to  fee,  as  they  faid,  the 
forccrcrs  experienced  in  the  black  art.] 

I  afterward  let  out  from  AlTouan,  an:!  rid  toward 
PhiliE*,  pairing  near  the  quarries,  and  going  along  a 
wad  that  feems  to  have  Iieen  made  by  art,  between 
little  hills  and  rocks  of  red  granite,  Ibme  of  which 
were  diftinguifhed  by  having  iiicroglyphtcs  carved 
upon  them  :  this  road  was  divided  into  two  pans  by 
a  mound  in  the  middle  of  it.  We  at  lengdi  paffed 
over  the  ifland  of  Phila:,  which  is  high  and  very 
fmall,  it  not  being  above  a  tjuarcer  of  a  mile  long^ 
and  half  a  quarter  broad.  The  city  fcems  to  have 
been  on  the  cift  Me,  and  it  appears  that  there  were 
no  other  buildings  on  the  ifland,  but  what  had  a  rela- 
tion to  the  temples  :  for  Diodorus  feems  to  inlinu- 
ate,  that  no  perlbn  but  the  prielts  v/cre  permitted  to 
land,  on  account  of  the  facrednefs  of  the  place  :  and 
accordingly  the  whole  iOand  appears  to  have  been 
walled  round,  fomcthing  in  the  manner  of  modem 
fortification,  and  great  part  of  that  wall  ftill  remains. 
The  particular  fort  of  Ethiopian  hawk  worshipped 

*  The  iDOi^em  name  of  this  iflar.d  is,  accorJiog  to  Mr,  Nordnt, 

hcFC, 


^P         TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      203 

bfTf,  I  obfcrvcd  cut  among  the  hieroglyphics  in  fei: 
vera!  parts,  and  reprelena-d  with  a  long  neck,  e»» 
tended  wings,  and  a  ierpem  coming  out  from  it. 
The  temple  of  the  hawk  is  built  of  .frccftone,  near 
the  water,  on  ihe  well:  fide  of  the  ifland. 

To  the  eaft  of  this  ftrudurc  is  [according  to  Mr. 
Norden,  the  t«nple  of  Ifis]  an  oblong  fquarc  build- 
ing open  on  all  fides.  The  capitals  of  the  pillars, 
which  have  fome  relemblance  to  ihofe  of  the  Corin* 
thian  order,  may  be  reckoned  among  the  moft  beau- 
tiful in  Egypt,  end  were  probably  ot  the  lall  inven- 
tion, they  being  the  only  capitals  of  that  kind  Ifaw 
in  Egypt. 

Returning  about  half  a  m-lc  the  way  we  came,  wc 
turned  off  to  tlie  weft,  in  order  to  take  a  view  of  the 
catarafi; ;  when  having  proceeded  about  a  mile  far- 
dier,  wc  ome  to  the  port  for  the  boats  that  come 
froiii  Ethiopia,  where  wc  found  molt  of  the  people 
negroes.  Here  is  no  village,  but  only  fome  iiide 
huts  made  of  mats  and  reeds.  At  this  (dace  the  peo- 
ple enter  their  goods,  and  convey  them  by  land  la 
Aflbuan  ;  and  in  the  Janie  manner  the  goods  brought 
from  Lower  Egypt  are  alio  conveyed  thither  by  land 
from  Ailbuan.  The  chief  import  here  confids  in 
dates,  which  the  people  of  AlTuuan  buy,  both  for 
their  own  ute,  and  to  fend  it  into  other  parts  of  Egypt : 
fo  that  on  both  fides,  ihe  Egyptian  and  Ethiopian 
navigation  end  at  the  cataract.  1  never  faw  aatura 
diicover  lb  rough  a  face  as  there  :  on  the  eaft-Qdc 
nothing  is  to  be  feen  but  rocks,  on  the  weft  the  iiills 
are  either  fandy  or  black  rocks ;  above  to  the  fuuthr 
there  fcems  to  be  a  high  rocky  ifland,  and  higher  up, 
rocky  cliits  on  each  (ide  1  and  below  to  the  nonh  arc 
lb  many  rocks,  that  little  of  the  WJter  can  be  fcctu 
Wc  now  went  on  to  the  north,  die  Nile  runotn  ~ 
thtough  the  rocks:  but  tJie  people  knowing  that,, 
came  to  fee  the  cainra^t.  Hood  Hill;  upon  whifh  t*' 
alkcd  them,  when' I  (iiould  come  to  it.'  and  to  myt 
,,    src<u  furpriJc,  they  told  me  that  w:is  the  cataraft. 


±o6       POCOCKE  and  NOkbEN's 

The  bed  of  the  Nile  is  croffcd  by  rocks  of  granite^ 
ivhich  in  three  places,  at  fome  diftance  from  each 
other,  divide  the  ftream,  making  three  falls  at  each. 
The  firft  we  came  to  was  the  leaft,  the  fall  appearing 
to  be  not  more  tlian  three  feet.  The  fecond,  which 
is  a  little  lower  down  the  river,  winds  round  a  large 
rock  or  ifland,  forming  two  dreams :  this  ifland,  to 
the  north,  may  be  abdut  1 2  feet  high,  and  it  is  faid, 
that  at  high  water,  the  Nile  runs  over  this  rock; 
but  fuppofing  the  river  to  be  then  five  feet  higher 
below  the  rock,  the  fall  may  be  about  feven  or  eight 
feet.  Farther  to  the  weft  are  other  rocks,  and  again 
to  the  weft  of  them  is  a  third  ftream.  G(Mng  fome- 
what  lower,  I  obfcrved  a  third  fall,  which  appeared 
to  be  greater  than  that  of  the  others.  There  is  an- 
other cataradt  at  Ibrim,  which  is  fatd  to  be  12  days 
journey  from  this  place :  fome  al(b  fay  there  is  another 
cataradt ;  and  others,  that  there  are  feven  mountains 
and  feven  catara6ts. 

I  here  faw  the  corn  in  ear  in  the  latter  end  of 
January :  the  coloquintida  was  full  grown^  and  the 
little  apple  called  Nabok  was  almoft  ripe^  which  in 
Delta  was  ripe  in  November.  In  the  lower  parts  of 
Egypt,  tlie  time  of  growth  for  fuch  fruit,  I  fuppofe 
to  be  after  the  overflowing  of  the  Nile-,  but  here, 
after  the  great  heats  are  paft.  I  now  faw  the  people 
driving  camels  loaded  with  fenna,  and  was  tokl  that 
each  load  was  worth  200  medins,  or  near  12  s.  6d. 
The  baifa  grants  a  licenie  to  one  perfon,  who  is  gene^ 
rally  a  Jew,  to  buy  all  the  fenna  *,  he  is  obliged  to 
take  all  that  is  brought  to  Cairo,  and  one  EngKlh 
merchant  only  has  the  privilege  of  purchafing  it  of 
him. 

On  my  return  to  Aflbuan,  the  relations  of  a  fbldief 
I  had  brought  from  the  ftieik  of  Fourfhout,  as  a  mark 
of  rcfpeft,  fent  me  a  fupper  ready  drefled,  in  hopes, 
I  fuppofe,  of  a  return  of  greater  value.  And  th« 
laft  evening  I  was  there  the  aga  likewife  fent  mc  m 
luppcr  of  goacs  flcfli,  boiled  and  well  peppered,  pi- 

law» 


■^ 


■         TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.       jo? 

I*w,  barley-broih,  and  hot  bread;  dcfiring  that  what 
was  left  might  be  given  to  the  boatmen,  and  not  to 
his  people. 

The  next  day,  having  all  my  goods  put  on  board, 
T  took  leave  of  the  aga,  and  fome  of  his  relations  at- 
tended mc  Co  the  buat;  when  the  wind  not  permit- 
ting us  to  begin  our  vuyage  back,  I  paiTcd  ihe  dajr 
in  the  boat  with  thofe  who  canw  to  fee  mc.  Among 
the  reft  I  was  vifired  by  a  gentcd  man,  brother  to  the 
caimacam  of  Girge:  I  had  fcen  him  at  the  aga's, 
and  was  now  in  a  country  where  I  thought  I  met  with 
a  friend  wherever  I  law  a  Turk>  or  a  perlbn  of  the 
middle  parts  of  Egypt.  He  behaved  with  grcJt  civi- 
lity, and  fccmed  to  be  a  very  good  fort  m  a  man. 
The  Chriftian  fecretary  of  the  caimacam,  inirullcd 
me  with  a  letter,  and  a  fum  of  money,  of  the  value  of 
three  or  four  pounds,  to  be  delivered  as  direfted  in 
Akmim ;  a  very  great  fum  in  that  country,  and  a 
ETuft  he  would  fcarcely  have  repofed  in  one  of  his 
own  country  that  was  going  to  Cairo  ;  though  he  was. 
ienfjble  I  Ihould  foon  leave  Egypt,  and  he  would 
never  fee  me  more.  He  at  the  4me  tiitie  prefentcd 
mc  a  live  Iheep,  and  in  return  1  made  him  a  prcfcot. 

[As  Dr.  Pococke  proceeded  no  farther  up  the  Nile, 
we  Ihall,  before  we  follow  him  back  to  Cairo,  attend 
Mr.  Nordcn  as  tar  as  Deir,  or  Derrl.  The  aga  at 
Alfouan,  and  other  perlons  in  that  town  hdd  intcrelted 
themlelvcs  in  his  falcty,  and  ufcd  every  argument  to 
prevent  his  advancing  farther,  obferving  that  he  woold 
infallibly  be  deilroyed,  fmce  he  was  not  going  among 
men,  but  among  iavage  monlbers,  who  would  mur- 
der a  man  for  a  parrot :  in  what  manner  then  will 
they  deal  with  you,  faid  the  aga,  who  carry  fuch  trca- 
fures?  But  all  his  arguments  had  no  effort,  and  Mr. 
Nordcn  refolvcd  to  proceed.  The  aga,  notwithftsnd- 
ing  bU  fears  for  lus  fafcty,  fcnt  his  own  brotlicr  to 
accompany  him  :  he  had  alfo  with  him  a  janizary, 
with  fcveral  Komifh  urtelh,  who  had  come  with  him 
up  the  Nile,  bcHde  tcivants  and  a  Jew  valec    fieing 


4o8       t>OCOCK£  and  RORDENV 

furnilhed  with  letters  of  recommendation  to  the  prin- 
cipal perfon;  on  the  coaftf  tbey  fee  otit,  while  the  na- 
tives took  leave  of  them,  as  of  perlons  doonKd  to 
dcftruction.  .      - 

Mr.  Norden  fei  out  from  Aflouan  onxhe  Z2d  of 
December^  a  month  before  Dr,  Poccicke's  arrival  at 
that  town  *,  and  by  the  aga's  order  had  13  dromeda- 
ries, 3  liorfes,  and  as  many  afles,  to  carry  him,  hit 
act;:ndan;s,  and  baggage,  to  the  haven  of  Morcodaj 
above  the  cacarsA.  He  there  embarked  in  a  boati 
with  his  attcndinis ;  viewed  the  anttquiucs  already 
defcribed  by  Dr.  Pococke,  in  the  antient  ifle-of  Philaej 
and  procceiling  up  the  river,  foon  reached  Dcboude, 
a  village  MJierc  he  could  have  wilhed  to  land,  ii;  or- 
der lu  examine  lome  antienc  editicrs  that  appeared  iii 
fi^ht  i  but  the  wind  being  favourable,  he  was  obliged 
to  be  f;it;sfied  with  a  diftant  view  of  them.  He  ob- 
fervcd  a  grand  edifice  of  great  lengthy  built  of  very 
laroe  fntttuncs,  cloicd  on  all  fides,  except  the  front, 
whtre  there  is  a  great  gate,  and  as  it  were  two  win- 
dows on  each  lidc,  formed  by  fciur  columns.  This 
tiructurc  isencompaHed  with  a  high  wall,  much  da- 
maged, cfpfcialiy  toward  the  portal.  OppoCte  the 
front  aj-e  thr::e  portals  iiicceeding  one  another,  whtcli 
Ji-ctii  to  mal..c  a  pallage  leading  to  a  can'al  40  feet 
broad,  that  terminates  in  the  Nile.  This. canal  is' 
tilled  Y/ith  !>.nd,  but  its  borders  arc  lined  with  a  thick 
wall.  There  arc  columns  to  be  perceived  on  the  in- 
licle  of  ihe  principal  eJjfice,  which  appears  to  have 
Kr.ticntly  fcrvcd  as  a  temple:  but  belide  this  ftruaure, 
there  is  :i  vil';  modern  piece  of  ftone-work,"  t&at  dit 
honciirs  thfi'e  antient  buildings,  and  renders  the.prof- 
ptiit  a  little  cont'u'.ed.  For  above  the  fpai:e  of  a  quar- 
ter of  a  lirajiue,  tlui  walls  and  foundations  of  fuperb 
cdil^tes  wire  icta  on  every  fide  ;  but  all  jre  in  ruins, 
ai.d  almoft  covered  with  fand.  Near  Tcfta,  which  a' 
c.n  the  toi-.fines  of  F.;'ypt  and  Nubia,  they  allb  faw 
lome  reindns  of  antienc  buildings,  which  like  the 
Ul>,  v.trc  built  of  vthite  ftoncs,  perfcftly  well  joined 
5  >-  tigethcr. 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.        ifl^l 

together     The  columns  on  the  infidc  arc  ftill  fubfift*. 
ing  J  but  thofe  that  were  without  are  ruined. 

At  eight  in  the  evening,  when  they  were  not  above 
a  gun-lho:  diftant  from  the  village,  an  incident  hajv 
pened  that  let  them  know  the  charafler  of  the  inha 
bitants.     Thefe  ordered  them  to  bring  the  barque  p 
land,  that  they  might  fee  the  Franki,  and  have  fom 
of  the  riches  they  carried  with  them  :  but  this  beini 
rcfufed,  a  tnuiket  was  fired  at  the  barque  from  eac|f 
lidc  of  the  river  ;  this  infuk  was  returned  by  a  double 
dilcharge  of  feven  niulkets  toward  the  place  whtiu 
the  voice  came  :   but  the  natives  having  hid  ihcmrdvci 
behind  fome  (tones,  received  no  damage.    They  w 
however  filent  for  fome  time  -,  but  foon  refuming  tl 
courage,  began  to  fire  again,  and  to  give  abuGve  laiv*  \ 
guage.     This  did  not  pleafe  thofe  in  the  barques  ' 
they  therefore  called  out  to  them,  that  if  they  did  *] 
not  defilt,  they  would  land,  and  entirely  cxtcrminai  ' 
them  i  which  had  its  efle<5t,  and  no  more  was  he^rd  <] 
ihem. 

The  next  day,  there  being  no  wind,  they  lay  bo^J 
fore  a  village  named  Scherck  Abohuer,  which  has  « 
diftriit  of  near  two  leagues    in  extent;    the  pilott^ 
who  was  3  native  of  the  place,  ailuring  them  rliai 
chey  would  find  his  countrymen  a  good  Ibrt  of  petv 
pie,  and  that  they  might  land  with  the  utmoft  lafcty,. 

Mr.  Nordcn  vifiteJ  the  adjacent  parts,  and  at  t 
fmall  diftance  obferved  along  the  Nile  an  aniiqiie  qi 
made  of  ftones-,  all  cut  in  thfe  tbrni  o(  prilhis, 
fo  well  joinfd  togcthei,'  that  there  was  not  the  leaft^ 
fpace  benvcen.  Near  u  were  five  or  fix  cottages  biil(c  '^ 
with  ftones,  entirely  covered  with  hieroglypiticsi  bi 
no  edifice  could  be  dilcovered  whence  they  wc 
taken.  The  grcaiell  breadth  of  the  land,  jnini  tl 
mountains  to  the  border  of  the  Nile,  ii  in  tliis  diiln 
no  more  than  loo  paces. 

The  wind  being  fair  at  eight  o'clock  the  nc«  mon^^ 
ing,  ihcy  immediately  h;c  fail ;    Mr.  Noiden  touk  a 
view  of   fevcnl  rilUgcSf    and  fome   Inconfiderable 

Vol.  VI.  P  rt.,ns. 


tftO      POe&CkE  and  N^RDEN's 

tuins.  They  now  came  to  the  moft  diflicidt  pafia^ 
in  the  whole  Nile.  The  river  here  is  entirdy  crofied 
by  rocks,  concealed  under  the  water  i  at  the  fides  of 
thefe  rocks  the  river  is  of  greAt  depth,  and  the  inter- 
mediate fpaces  form  eddies  or  whirlpools.  Thofc  in 
the  barque  conduftcd  thcmfelves  with  all  the  precau- 
tion  that  Ho  dangerous  a  paflage  Rqutred ;  but  the 
misfortune  was,  that  the  barque  did  not  oboy  the  rud- 
der :  (he  (truck  upon  a  rock,  and  concmued  in  a 
frightful  fituation.  She  was  taken  hold  of  precifely 
in  the  middle,  and  the  whirl  of  the  watA  made  her 
turn  upon  the  rock  as  upon  a  pivot.  Hippily  the 
Current  and  the  wind  beat  againft  the  barque  at  the 
fame  time,  and  this  was  their  f^ety  i  the  barque,  by 
this  means,  in  a  Httle  time,  diferigi^ed  itfelf  iritfaoat 
farther  alTillance,  and  thofe  on  boarcl  ttxM.  fuch  td- 
Tantage  of  the  wind,  that  they  were  focAi  out  of  dw- 
ger.  At  length  they  arrived  at  Schemedcrefchted,  a 
Tillage  -where  they  Itaid  all  night. 

The  next  morning  they  fet  fail  fixim  thence,  sod 
foon  after  an  adventure  happened  which  (hews  the  dif- 
pofuion  of  thefe  people.  Mr.  Norden  was  csamin- 
ing  the  names  of  the  places  by  which  he  had  paflfed 
the  preceding  day  •,  the  commander  <^  the  vefli;!,  and 
the  Jew  valet  were  fitting  near  Mm,  and  repeating 
the  names  of  thofe  places  that  were  already  writtei}* 
while  he  corre£led  them  by  their  pronunciation?  when 
a  paflenger  ftarting  up,  threw  himfelf  upon  Mr.  Nor- 
den, feized  the  paper  he  held  in  his  hand,  and  tewrii^ 
it  in  pieces,  retired  quietly  to  hi»  phtx,  whet«  htfa 
down  as  if  nothing  had  happened.  Mt.  Norden  Mt 
'being  able  to  utidcrftand  the  meaning  of  this  iofe- 
lence,  was  reBcAing  with  himfelf  whether  he  fhouM 
refent  it  or  not,  when  thofe  who  were  prefcnt  buifl 
into  a  loud  laugh.  Upon  this  he  alktd  the  reifttf 
and  they  explained  to  him  the  whole  myfttry.  The 
fellow  -Wii  unwilling  he  (hould  knttw  Ihe  phtee  from 
'  whence  he  came,  becaufe  be  might  f^iutn  fbme  fvta 
slttr  into  Nub»,  and  bringing  more'  fjenple  #ttbMMi* 

■-'Oiig^t 


J 


TRAVELS  Oiroiigh  EGYPT,      an 

flight  make  himfclf  matter  of  the  counuy ;  alle^g- 
Ing  ihat  if  be  knew  the  name  of  the  village  where  he 
was  born,  and  bad  it  in  writing,  he  Ihould  not  f.iil 
to  be  taken  as  well  as  ch«  rcH :  and  that  rbis  was  the 
fble  cjufc  of  his  fnatcbiog  the  paper,  in  which  the 
home  was  goiiig  to  be  written, 

Mr.  Nordcn  could  fcarcely  forbear  laughing  ai  the 
fellow's  fimplicity  ;  but  to  prevent  the  confcquences 
of  fuch  an  humour  for  the  future,  he  afliimed  a  very 
Icrious  air,  ordering  the  commanJer  of  the  veflct  to 
draw  near  the  bank,  and  put  thit  infoknt  fellow  on 
fliore  1  adding,  "  The  barque  is  entirely  ours  ;  it  is 
only  bycouFEdy  we  give  any  one  a  paflage,  and  when 
any  body  behaves  inlblently  we  fhail  turn  him  out." 
The  fellow,  who  was  indeed  a  pafll-ngcr,  now  hum- 
bly begged  to  Ilay,  and  promifed  to  behave  better 
for  the  future  ;  upon  which  Mr.  Norden  fuffered  him- 
fclf to  be  prevadcd  on,  and  the  man  from  that  time 
was  quiet  and  tradbble. 

In  the  mean  tinie  tliey  pafled  by  feveral  other  vil- 
lages, and  the  wind  falling  calm,  they  fatlcncd  the 
barque  on  the  weftern  fliorc,  near  a  village  named 
Sabua,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  arc  fume  re- 
roarkable  antiquities,  built  in  the  antient  £gypti;ia 
taftc,  ■  Thcfe  ruins  are  in  a  plain  covered  witli  land, 
wficre  from  fome  broken  walls  there  appear  to  hav« 
been  (ithcr  biuldings  of  a  vaft  extent. 

The  nest  morning  tliey  again  fet  fail,  and  in  the 
aftcKnoor  ajjproaching  a  village  named  Korolcoff, 
Htuatcd  on  the  ealtern  Ihorei  the  natives  (ailed  out 
IQ  them  to  bring  the  barqu*  to  land.  They  obeyed, 
and  then  heard  that  the  Schorbatfchic,  the  father  of 
ilic  cafliif  Ihrini,  was  there  at  his  country  lioufc. 
Upon  thb,  ihcy  went  alborc,  and  Mr.  Norden  waited 
upon  this  jioiL-ntaie,  atcompatiicd  by  the  aga  of 
AObuan's  brother,  the  Jew  vjIci,  aiitt  thcjaniMry 
who  went  with  them  as  a  gdaul.     They  fgund  the 

Seat  man  feared  ia  the  niidille  ui'  a  held,  cirpoicd  co 
j  ihc  heat  of,  the  fun,  and  eijjployed  io  deciding  a 
WPtfte  between  two  men  about  a  c>[t\e\.    W«  Vk&^ 


ill       POCOCKE  and  KORDfet^S 

the  look  of  a  wclf,  and  was  drefled  Uce  a  1 
An  old  napkin,  which  was  formerly  white,  made  his 
turbant }  and  a  red  drefs,  ftUI  more  old,  fcarcc  cover- 
ed his  body,  which  appeared  through  the  holes.  Mr. 
Norden  faluted  him  in  the  ordinary  manner ;  but  as 
he  had  brought  no  prefent,  he  did  not  fo  much  as  afk 
him  to  fit  down ;  but  he  placed  himfelf  by  him,  with- 
out alking  his  permilTion,  and  put  into  his  hands  the 
letters  the  aga  of  AObuan  and  his  fon  had  furnilhed 
him  with.  I'he  latter  he  put  in  his  turbant,  but 
read  the  others  with  great  attention ;  after  which  he 
turned  to  ihofe  who  were  pleading,  each  of  whom 
jeemed  to  imagine  he  fhould  gain  his  caufe  by  dint  of 
nolle.  The  Schorbatfchie  fometimes  intermixed  his 
voice,  and  made  himfelf  fo  well  heard,  that  it  couU 
not  be  doubted  but  that  he  was  the  judge. 

As  this  trial  fcemcd  as  if  it  would  not  be  foon  end- 
ed, Mr.  Norden  ordered  the  Jew  to  fpcak  to  the 
effendi,  who  was  prefent,  in  order  to  prevail  on  the 
Schorbatfchie  to  difpatch  him  fpcedily.  This  the 
eficndi  did ;  and  on  the  Schorbatfchie's  hearing  from 
him  that  the  Jew  was  Mr.  Norden'j  interpreter,  he 
afked  him,  why  his  mader  had  not  brought  him  a 
good  prefent  ?  *'  You  go  too  faft,  replied  the  Jew. 
what,  afk  for  prefents  before  you  have  done  him  the 
leaft  lervice  !  Shew  yourfelf  his  friend,  and  you  will 
fee  that  he  will  pay  you  well."  This  flattering  hope 
•ntirely  changed  the  gentleman's  behaviour:  he  af- 
fumcd  an  air  of  mildnefs  \  faluted  Mr.  Norden,  and 
told  him  that  he  had  nothing  to  do  but  to  go  to  Der- 
ri  1  that  he  would  be  there  before  him,  where  he 
would  give  him  entire  fatisfaAion,  At  the  fame  time 
he  ordered  his  fon  to  conduct  him  to  his  country 
houle,  to  fliew  it  htm,  and  to  fend  a  goat  as  a  pre&ot 
ro  the  barque. 

Mr.  Norden  by  this  means  faw  his  country-{eat, 
which  might  with  niore  propriety  be  termed  aitablc^ 
and  while  he  was  looking  at  it,  his  conduChif  chdi: 
iVom  fcvcn  or  eight  Ihc-goats  the  poo>reft  he  could' 

find;' 


TRAVELS  ihrough  EGVPX-       zij 
find.     Asiliey  were  returning  to  the  barque,  the  jci 
told  Mr.  Norden,  that  the  c&ndi,  who  was  a  oniiv 
of  Cairo,  had  Ihewed  great  furprize,  ac  their 
dared  to  advance  fo  far ;    and  ofalcrved,    that  thf 
might  think  themfclves  happy  if  they  cfcaped  i^ 
fafety :     but  he    Teemed    to  give  Hide  attention  to 
this  difcourft.    On  his  arrival  at  the  barque,  he  found 
that  the  goat,  lean  as  ihe  was,  was  become  a  bone  of 
contention.     The  crew  laid  claim  to  ir,  and  main' 
tained  that  the  Schorbatfchic  had  fent  jt  for  their  fup- 
per;  the  commander  of  the  veflTel  tided  with  then)  J 
but  the  valet  being  unwilling  to  lurrender  it,  the  diT 
putc  grew  warm,   and  Mr.  Norden  was  obiiged  r 
maintain  his  right  by  ferious  menaces  ^  but  jiavin* 
thus  determined  the  property  of  the  goat  in  his  ow 
favour,  he  generoufly  made  a  prcl'cnt  of  jt  to  i* 
crew. 

Mr.  Nprden  had  no  fooner  fct  fail,  ihan  the  com 
mander  of  the  barque  declared,  that  he  would  t 
upon  any  conGdcration  carry  him  farther  than  Dcrr 
and  nothing  (hoyld  induce  him  to  proceed  to  the  ( 
cond  cataraft,  Thcfc  difcourles,  added  to  the  effeiif 
di's  advice,  caufed  Mr.  Norden  lo  make  fcveral  fcrt 
ous  reflections:  but  he  was  too  fdt  engaged  todra 
back,  and  was  relblved  to  continue  advancing  to  fcc 
what  would  be  the  refult  of  it.  In  the  mc;in  time, 
he  thought  proper  to  imporc  filence  on  the  commai|T 
derof  the  vclTel,  and  to  allure  him,  in  wh^t  ma^incc 
foever  things  might  turn  out,  they  Ihould  always  haw 
jt  in  their  power  to  demolilh  him  :  and  that  if  any 
niLEforiu'ne  befel  ihein.  ihey  fhould  confider  him  as 
{he  author  of  it,  and  be  fure  to  make  him  the  firft 
viftim.  Thefe  menaces  made  liim  change  his  tone, 
and  he  fwore,  that  if  Baram  Caftiif,  to  whom  the 
boat  belonged,  would  permit  it,  he  would,  with  all 
his  heart,  convey  them  as  far  as  he  could  fail :  but 
he  exhorted  Mr.  Norden  and  his  attendants  to  tai«5 

frc  of  offending  that  tyrant,    of  whom  he  gavc(, 
cadful  dcfcription,  though  he  was  his  maftcr. 

;■  ■  ■  P  3  ■  V 


SI4       POCOCKE  and  N-ORDEN'a" 

A  calm  coming  on,  and  the  corrnit  driving  them 
back,  they  faflcned  the  barque  ninr  Amada,  z  village 
on  the  wcftern  (hare,  almoft  oppofuc  to  Korofkoff,' 
where  Mr.  Nordcn  landed,  in  order  to  fee  an  antienr 
Kgyptian  temple,  which  in  length  Of  time  had  got 
into  the  hands  of  the  Chriftians.  On  the  walls  arc 
piintings  of  the  Trinity,  the.  apofiles,  and  fcveral 
other  faints-,  and  where  the.plafter  has  ^lleii  off,  the 
hieroglyphics  that  are  underneath  begin  to  appear. 
This  temple  is  flill  entire  ;  but  a  monaftery,  that 
had  been  Duilt  near  it,  is  abfolutely  ruined. 

Mr.  Norden  having  taken  k  drawiiig  of  it  with- 
drew;  he  had  perceived  no  body  on  the  way,  but 
near  the  barque  he  met  with  one  of  the  natives  on 
horfcback,  entirely  naked,  only  his  brcaft  was  cover- 
ed with  a  goat's  fkin.  He  was  armed  with  a  long 
pike,  and  a  buckler  made  of  the  Ikin  of  a  rhinoceros. 
This  man  ffopt  him  ;  but  after  afking  ium  fbme  quef- 
tions,  and  finding  he  was  not  underftoodi  rode  off, 
'  The  Nile  was  he;e  fo  fhallow,  (hat  in  fcVeral  places 
the  barque  could  I'carccly  pafs,     -     ^   ■ 

The  r-xt  morning,  the  wind  being  north,  thcy 
were  obliged  to  tow  the  boat  along  the  fhoic  during 
the  whole  day.  It  was  now  remarked,  that  the  rfope 
of  ihi-  (hore  ')f  the  river  was  for  the  moft  part  cover- 
ed witH  kinires  and  radilhcs,  and  the  feed  of  which 
ftrves  for  making' oil.  There  were  likewJft  fome 
oti'.er  plants,  fuch  as  iuccory  and  bumet.  Mf.  Nor- 
di-n  rctnarkcd  here  an  old  method  of  crofling  the  Nile. 
Two  men  were  fitting  on  a  trufs  of  ftraw,  while  a 
cow  fwimming  before,  one  of  them  held  in  one  hand 
her  tail,  and  with  the  other  guided  the  bcaft  by  a 
cprd  faftcncd  to  her  horns  :  the  other  man,  who  was 
behind,  ftccrcd  with  a  little  oar,  by  means  of  which, 
he  kept  at  die  fame  time  the  balance.  ■  Thefame  day, 
he  likewife  faw  fome  load^'d  camels  eroding  the  river. 
A  nun  fwimming  before,'  held  the  bridle  of  the  firft 
camel  in  his  mouthy  the  lecond  camel  was  faftened 
CO  the  tail  of  the  Brft,  and  the  third  to  the  tail  of  the 

fccond, 


TRAVELS  tiifoiigh  EGYFT.      115 

^cond,  while  another  man  brought  up  the  reari  and 
ftxdc  care  that  the  Iccoud  and  third  camels  Ihould  fol- 
Idw  in  a  row. 

--.  Two  dayj  .iftcr  chcy  arrived  a:  Deir  orDcrri,  whicii 
k  fituatcd  on  the  ealtern  Ihore  of  the  Nile,  pretty 
fieir  the  placer  where  the  river  begins  to  direit  its 
iourle  cow.ird  the  well.  The  news  of  their  arrival 
hUA  gone  before  them  -,  tor  on  their  (aliening  their 
bsFque  to  land,  a  croiid  of  people  nete  running  in 
0rdeF  to  fatisfy  their  curiaflty  by  feeing  them.  Mr. 
Norden  being  toid  that  the  Schorbitichic  was  re- 
ahied,  and  had  allbmbled  other  princes  at  his  houfe, 
immediately  waited  on  him,  attended  by  one  of  the 
prietU,  who  underltood  the  language,  and  the  Jew 
valet.  They  found  thcfe  petty  princes  in  a  grand 
divan,  and  were  received  with  much  civility-  Baram 
calhit  fat  as  prefidcnt,  and,  after  tlie  tiril  compli- 
ments, let  Mr.  Nordco  know,  that  they  had  been 
^onfulting  together  about  him  ;  and  as  they  intended 
to  promote  his  voyage,  tiiay  had  thought  ii  was  bcft 
ft»r  him  to  ftay  at  Dcrri  till  the  arrival  of  the  new  ca- 
Aiif>  when  they  fhould  go  to  war  with  a  people  tliat 
dwelt  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  fccond  cataratfi 
fuid  as  t^ey  Ihould  lead  an  army  of  500  men,  he  would 
travel  in  good  company,  and  with  the  utmoU  faicty. 
The  whole  divan  ^elfilied  their  being  of  the  bmc 
fentiments  :  but  Mr.  Norden,  perceiving  that  a  plot 
was  laid  for  him,  anfwered,  That  he  and  thole  with 
him  preferred  continuing  tlicir  voyage  upon  the  Nile 
in  the  barque  they  had  hired  1  but  that,  however, 
they  would  confidcr  on  the  oftcr  which  had  been 
made  ihcdi.  bai-am  cajhif  being  then  inibrmcd  that 
Mr,  Norden  dcfued  to  have  a  private  cun^ercncc  widi 
him,  he  conlcnwd,  and  appointed  the  hour.  On 
whxh  our  traveller  rolt:  up,  lalutcd  the  divan,  and 
returned  to  the  barque,  in  order  to  conliilt  whh  his 
companions  in  the  vc^age,  on  the  mcal'ure^  moil  pru- 
dent to  be  taken. 

^  ?  4  ITJie 


arS      PQCOCKE  ttd  NORDEITf 

-  The  propt^  of  the  divan,  joined  to  what  ^ley 
had  been  told  at  Aflbuao,  made  cTery  one  think  it 
would  be  madners  to  go  any  farther ;  and  that  it  was 
neceflary  to  turn  back  as  loon  as  poflible.  At  the 
hour  appointed  Mr.  Norden  waited  upon  Bataoi  car 
Aiif,  and  informed  him,  that  there  were  none  of  them 
in  a  condition  to  bear  fo  long  a  journey  by  land>  and 
that  they  begged  of  him,  as  a  favour,  that  he  would 
oblige  the  commander  of  the  barque  te  convey  them 
CO  the  iecond  catarad.  He  anfwered,  that  the  barque 
was  his  i  that  if  his  fervant  had  engaged  to  carry 
them  farther,  he  had  exceeded  his  orders :  that  be- 
jide,  the  water  of  the  !Ni]c  was  too  (hallow  to  render 
it  poflible  to  go  up  the  Nile  as  far  as  the  cataraA ; 
that  they  would  be  forced  to  ftop  fomewhere  upon 
the  way  with  his  barque,  which  would  be  a  great 
lofs  to  him.  Mr.  Norden  replied,  "  Since  it  is  not 
poflible  to  advance  by  water,  and  on  the  other  hand 
we  are  unable  to  go  by  land,  we  have  no  other  mea- 
fiire  to  take  but  to  return  back."  *'  You  may,  he 
replied,  but  it  Hiall  not  be  with  my  barque.  I  want 
it ;  and  you  muft  take  your  things  out  of  k  as  loon 
as  poflible." 

Mr.  Norden  could  not  now  ddubt  of  the  bad  de- 
figns  formed  againft  him.  There  was  then  no  other 
barque  at  Derri,  and  even  if  there  had  been  cme,  no- 
body would  have  dared  to  carry  him  in  it  without  the 
permifllon  of  this  man,  who  was  a  real  tyrant,  .  Mr. 
Norden  therefore,  by  means  of  the  Jew  and  the 
prieft,  offered  him  all  the  advantages  he  could  hope 
for  in  letting  the  barque,  and  after  many  difficulties 
the  bargain  was  made  :  the  man  who  commanded  it 
was  called,  and  they  all  fwore,  holding  their  hands 
on  their  beards,  to  ftand  to  the  agreement,  fiaram 
c&lhif  wasfo  fatisfied  with  it,  that  he  made  Mr.  Nor- 
den a  prefent  of  two  new  zagaies,  -  or  dans,  and  the 
pizzle  of  a  young  elephant,  which  he  faid  he  had 
carried  above  ten  yeais  i  and  on  his  returning  to  the 
parque. 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      417 

barque,  he  Tent  after  him  a  goat,  and  a  t^ifket  of 
dates. 

Mr.  Norden  now  fcnt  him  a  prcfcnt  of  tobacco, 
ftrong  liquors,  and  other  things  -,  but  bis  affairs  had 
already  taken  »  different  turn  :  che  Schorbatfchie  had 
heard  of  the  agreement,  and  being  apprehenfive  of 
lofing,  by  the  departure  of  the  boat,  ail  rhe  advan- 
l^s  he  had  expeded,  he  talked  with  Barani  caftiif, 
and  made  him  change  his  fcntiments.  He  therefore 
rejefted  the  prcfent,  faying  they  had  made  a  fool  of 
him,  and  that  he  muft  have  things  of  greater  value. 

The  Jew  returning  with  this  report,  they  could 
fcarce  give  credit  to  what  he  faid  -,  they,  however, 
commilTioned  the  father  to  wait  on  him  again.  Ba- 
ram  cathif  gave  him  a  very  cold  reception  j  told  him 
a  thoufand  fooIiQi  things  ;  and  the  pricft  obfervlng, 
that  he  ought  to  confider  tliey  were  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  grand  fignior,  he  anfwered  in  a  feeming 
rage,  "  I  laugh  at  the  horns  of  the  grand  fignior  -, 
]  am  here  grand  fignior  myfelf,  and  will  teach  you  to 
refpeft  me  as  you  ought.  I  know  already  what  fort 
of  people  you  are,  added  he.  1  have  confultcd  my 
cup,  and  have  found  by  it,  that  ^ou  are  thofe  of 
whom  one  of  our  prophrts  has  fatd.  There  would 
come  Franks  in  difguile,  who  by  Utde  prefents,  and 
by  a  foothing  and  iniinuattng  behaviour,  would  paf& 
every  vvhcre  -,  examine  the  Itate  of  the  country  ;  go 
to  make  a  report  of  it,  and  afterward  returning  with 
a  great  number  of  Franks,  conquer  and  extermioatc 
us  all.  But,  1  will  take  care  of  that :  you  muft  quit 
barque  without  delay." 

~hc  lather  having  at  his  return  repeated  this  dif- 
I'e,  it  was  refolved  not  to  quit  the  barque  but 
wh  life.  However,  early  the  next  morning  Mr. 
Nordcn  waited  on  Baiam,  accompanied  by  the  prieft, 
who  Ipokc  the  language,  and  by  the  Jew.  The  ca- 
fhif  foon  ajipcarcd,  repeated  his  accuftomed  cant, 
and  offered  ti>  conduct  them  to  the  catarad :  but  on 
jhcir  letting  him  know  th.it  they  Jud  no  mirul  to  go 

titulw:!^ 


M 


Its       POCOCKE  Md  NORDEN's 

fhiriicr,  he  demanded  large  prcfertta;  Upon  tht^Mr. 
Is'orticn  iifked  liim  by  what  right  he  formed  fuch  prt- 
lenfions  j  and  what  he  meant  by  playing  thus  with  his 
oath,  and  breakihg  the  bargain  he  had  made?  En- 
*agrd  ar  thefc  reproaches,  he  Twore  that  he  wotikt 
hi^ke  them  know  ^ho  he  i?fai,  and  ihreattncd  to  take 
a«iay  their  lives.  To  which  Mr.  Norden  anfwered, 
thiir  they  (hould  be  able  to  take  their  meafures  ;  and 
<'i\iittin>+  him  without  raking  leave,  they  went  imtnft- 
diatfity  to  the  (lorb^tfchic. 

This  offictr,  who  was  a%  great  a  villain  as  the  otherj 
trtdted  them  with  much  the  fame  language.  On 
whicJh  Mr.  Norden  rofc  up,  and  raifing  his  voice, 
chitci,  •'  Tell  him,  if  they  have  tjken  their  refolu- 
cion,  we  have  taken  ours,  and  will  wale  the  ilTde  with 
our  weapon  in  our  hands.''  Upon  this  he  went  to 
the  door,  and  the  father  and  the  Jew  having  inter- 
preted whatheftid,  followed  him  clofcly. 

As  ihcy  were  crofTing  the  market-placf,  in  <mkr 
to  haftcn  to  the  barque,  Baram  calhif,  who  was  there^ 
fcnt  for  Mr.  Norden,  and  being  then  in  his  good  hii* 
mour,  made  him  fit  down  by  hirh  j  and  falutirtg  hint, 
faid,  h€  mufl  cloath  him  like  an  emir,  and  mtk6 
liim  other  prefents,  which  he  mentioned.  Mr.  Ntir- 
deti  promifed  to  content  him,  provided  he  would  itn>- 
trtediacely  give  orders  for  their  departure  i  and  the 
bargain  feen^ed  to  be  again  concluded.  As  no  agree* 
mfnt  was  yet  made  with  the  fcorbatfchie,  ■  Mr.  Nor- 
den propofed  to  return  to  him ;  but  the  caftitf  dtffired 
chat  the  others  might  be  fcnt,  and  that  he  would  ftay 
with  him  till  they  came  back. 

ThiS'bcring  agreed  to,  they  were  no  Iboner  alone, 
than  the  cathif  ordered  foine  dates  and  wat^r  to  M 
brought ;  and  treating  Mr.  Norden  with  great  cin- 
lit)',  made  him  underiland  that  he  ShovAd  give  him 
^fomc  of  his  fhirts,  with  fome  coffee,  rice,  &c.  This 
he  promifed  by  figns,  and  in  broken  Arabic.  The 
cartiif,  filled  with  joy,  renewed  his  carefles;  buck 
vas  vifibic  thev  were  owing  to  his  avarice.    Both  the 

Arab^ 


■^ttAVELS  tfirtugh  EGYPT. 


Arabs  and  the  Turks  are  accuftomed  to  put  what 
they  eftcem  moft  valuable  in  the  folds  of  their  tur- 
bam,  and  thofe  of  iheir  fcarf  j  and  Baram  cafhif 
wanting  to  know  whether  he  did  not  cany  fomcrhing 
valuabte  about  him,  began  vfith  filling  his  pockets 
jviih  dates,  and  then  putting  fomc  into  his  fcarf  and 
turbant,  took  care  to  learchat  the  fame  time  whether 
he  could  Doc  find  any  thing  in  ihcm  :  but  Mr.  Nor- 
den  had  wifely  taken  every  thing  out  before  he  left 
the  barque>  fo  that  he  loft  both  his  lafaout-  and  the 
dates. 

In  the  mean  while,  the  prieft  and  the  Jew  rrtiimed, 
without  being  able  to  prevail  on  the  fchorbatfchiej 
on  which  Bariam  rafiiir  told  Mr.  Norden,  that  if  he 
would  ftay  with  him  and  let  the  others  go,  he  would 
ircnc  him  as  hh  own  bt^ther.  But  that  gentleman, 
after  thanking  him  for  his  offer,  entreated  him  to 
finilTi  the  afiair,  and  give  orders  for  his  departure. 
To  this  he  confented  ;  and  taking  them  to  his  houfe, 
made  frefii  propofals ;  and  it  was  agreed,  that  be 
fhould  have  Mr.  Norden's  fuic  of  cioaths,  a  pair  of 
piftols,  fi»me  powder  and  ball,  and  fifteen  fevillans  : 
that  tlie  fame,  fum  Ihould  be  given  to  the  fchorbat- 
ffhic  1  that  befide,  the  calllif  fbould  receive  35  fevil- 
Jani  for  the  hire  of  the  barque,  6  fevillans  fliould  be 
eiven  to  the  nian  who  was  ro  command  it,  and  3  to  the 
tailors.  On  thefe  Conditions  ihcy  were  to  fail  in  the 
night,  that  they  might  do  it  with  th«  greater  fafety. 
The  cafliif  then  told  them,  he  would  go  and  make 
the  ftborbatfchie  hearken  to  reafon,  and  afterward 
come  to  the  barque  to  fee  the  prefents  dcfigned  him. 
Our  travellers  now  hailed  to  the  barque,  where 
they  immediately  caufcd  every  thing  they  had  bar- 
gained for  to  be  taken  out  of  their  chefts,  ro  prevent 
their  bcin^  obliged  to  open  them  in  theprelcRCc  of  the 
c^lhif  i  taking  care  to  conceal  all  their  houfhold  utcn- 
ftls  with  a  thoufand  ufcful  trifles,  and  to  expofe  no- 
thing ro  the  fight  but  weapons,  (rf  which  tbcy  had  a 
trttty  good  ftock.  ■>  ■^-.'>  v,    v, 

'    r    .  Itl 


£20      PpCOCKE  and,NORD£N*s 

In  about  an  hour  Baram  cafhif  arrived,  and  orderins 
every  body  on  the  bank  of  the  Nile  to  retire,  entered 
the  bavk ;  and  having  feen  his  prefent,  appeared  well 
fatisFicd.  He  dcfired  that  it  might  be  concealed  from 
the  fchorbatfchie,  who  was  coming,  and  kept  till  it 
grtw  dark,  when  he  would  fend  one  of  his  flaves  for 
It.  But  the  fchorbatfchie,  on  his  arrival,  appeared 
diflatisficd  with  the  bargain  ;  and  refgfing  to  accept 
of  a  piece  of  common  red  cloth,  fuffictent  to  make 
him  a  fuit  of  doaths,  retired  dii'contented.  Baram 
cafhif,  however,  bid  them  fear  nothing,  for  he  would 
ftand  to  his  agreement.  Who  would  not  have  thought 
that  he  now  afted  lincerely  ?  efpecially  as  the  man 
who  had  the  care  of  the  boat,  came,  and  faid  he  had 
received  orders  from  his  matter  to  fail,  and  for  that 
purpofe  had  put  frefh  merchandizes  on  board.  Yet 
at  night  no  flavc  came  for  the  prelent,  and  this  ren- 
dering Mr.  Norden  uneafy,  he  fent  the  Jew  and  the 
aga's  oroihcr  to  fee  what  occalioned'  this  delay  :  but 
aicer  laying  till  palt  midnight,  they  returned  with 
the  melancholy  news,  that  the  cafhif  fwore  tp  deflxoy 
them  -,  and  talked  of  having  chefb  of  gold  before  far 
would  fuffer  them  to  efcape. 

I'he  elfendi  then  came  to  the  barque,  qnd  Uld 
them,  he  was  extremely  concerned  at  the  fad  circum- 
Aances  in  which  he  faw  them.  "  Yoy  have  to  do 
with  devils,  and  not  men,'  faid  he.  I  have  the  unhap^ 
pinefs  to  be  obliged  to  live  with  them.  I  maintain 
myfelf  in  my  poft,  becaufe  I  can  write,  which  the7 
cannot  do  themfelves :  but  I  abhor  the  manner  ia 
which  they  treat  (Irangers,  whence  no  barque  any 
longer  comes  here.  I  know  not  what  ir  is  thatTe- 
ftrains  them  with  rcfpet^  to  you  :  but  before  your  ar- 
rival it  was  debated  in  the  divan,  whether  they  Ihould 
get  rid  of  you  imn:]ediately,  and  in  what  manner  they 
Jhould  fet  about  it.  After  great  difputes,  it  was 
agreed  to  conduct  you  into  the  defarrs,  under  the  pre- 
tence of  accompanying  you  to  the  catarai5t.  What 
they  would  have  done  with  you  when  diercj^tlic  pro- 


f       TRAVELS  ttirough  EGV^T*.      zH 

piet  only  knows ;  but  all  they  faid  about  the  war 
were  lies,  intended  to  make  you  fall  into  the  fnarel 
Believe  tne,  you  have  to  do  with  the  grcateft  villain 
on  earth.  He  has  killed  nine  men  with  his  own  lund, 
who  were  his  friends,  and  fome  of  the  mod  powerful 
men  of  the  country.  It  is  this  tliat  has  rendered  him 
lb  formidable :  he  fupporcs  his  power  by  the  prcients 
he  makes  to  fome,  out  of  what  he  plunders  from 
others.  He  might  be  really  a  cafliif,  did  he  but  dare 
to  go  to  Tfchirche,  to  a(k  for  the  caSetan  ;  but  he 
is  deterred  by  the  complaints  often  carried  thiihcr 
againll  him :  thus  he  rather  chufts  to  fend  thither 
fome  filly  young  fellow,  in  whofe  name  he  governs. 
BeCde,  added  the  effendi,  he  is  drunk  every  night  > 
— he  then  refemblcs  a  madman  — he  lies  with  fus  own 
slaughters.— In  (hort,  he  is  the  vileft  wretch  1  ever 
knew." 

Thofe  in  the  barque  heard  this  dreadful  character 
without  anfwerins  a  word  ;  and  only  afked  his  advice, 
which  he  was  unaole  to  give  them.  In  this  uncertainty 
he  left  them,  and  they  continued  in  it  the  whole  night. 

At  break  of  day,  a  flave  from  the  caftiif  came  to 
tell  the  commander  of  the  barque,  that  he  niuft 
throw  all  the  baggage  of  the  Franks  on  Ihore,  and 
oblige  them  to  quit  the  veflcl ;  but  they  intiiiCr, 
diatcly  informed  him,  in  the  prefcncc  of  the  ilivcj, 
that  he  (hould  not  touch  any  thing  that  belonged  t^ 
Ihcm  i  that  ihcy  were  refolved  not  to  quit  the  barque,, 
bur  with  life,  and  that  the  iirll  pcrfoii  who  flioiik)  .at- 
tempt to  force  them  out,  fhould  be  Uid  dead  on  ihj. 
fpot.  They  promifed,  however,  to  talk  with  iK^t 
calliifi  and  Mr.  Nordcn  had  the  courage  to  go  inir^ 
ittediartly  to  his  houfe,  attended  by  fch«  in^c-picieri. 

They  were  received  with  great  coding's  -,  and  on 
Oieir  mentioning  the  fccond  agrcrniciit,  he  flew  into, 
a  rage,  crylnjj,  "Get  you  gone,  get  y  ,m  ::-nr."  I J; 
did  not  flay  to  have  this  brutal  con  r 
but  weui  10  the  fchorbaU'chie,  to 
"ttt  t&gT  ttfd  to-eicpca.     Thcyarr. 


524       POCOGKE  and  JfORDfiN^s 

infults  we  might  fuffer  here  revenged,   in  cafe  wfi 
Ihould  be  unable  to  revenge  ourfelves.** 

Upon  this  he;  arofe  and  returned  to  the  barque; 
with  a  firm  refolutiori  of  quitting  it  no  more«  But 
he  had  not  been  there  half  an  hour  before  the  cafliif 
fent  for  the  interpreter,  on  which  the  Jew  went ;  and 
foon  returned  with  the  news,  that  he  begged  thejr 
would  fend  him  the  prefents  that  had  been  agreed 
upon,  and  alfo  fome  other  trifles,  on  Wh|^  condi- 
tions he  promifed  to  let  them  depart  immediately, 
and  to  accompany  them  himfelf  to  a  certain  diftance. 
Though  little  credit  could  be  given  to  what  he  faid^ 
the  prefents  were  fent,  and  alfo  the  money  for  lumfelf 
and  the  fchorbatfchie. 

About  noon  the  cafhif  came  to  the  boat  with  two 
bullies,  ordered  every  thing  to*  be  got  ready  for  fail- 
ing; when  aflcing  Mr.  Norden  if  he  was  now  fatis- 
fied  with  him  ?  he  replied.  That  he  could  not  have 
thought  he  would  have  been  fo  honeft,  and  that  he 
was  at  prefent  very  much  inclined  in  his  favouf. 
This  was  faying  too  much,  "  Since  you  are  favour- 
ably inclined  toward  me,  faid  he,  give  me  fomc- 
thing."  They  appeared  a  little  reluftant,  but  he 
would  not  give  over  his  demand ;  and  it  was  necef- 
fary  to  part  with  feveral  other  trifles.  The  worft  of 
it  was,  that  he  had  never  done  aflcing ;  and  no  fooner 
got  one  thing,  than  he  wanted  another,  and  would 
not  leave  difputing  for  it  till  he  got  it. 

In  the  mean  while  they  had  proceeded  a  good 
way,  and  night  coming  on,  the  cafliif  landed  at  Ke- 
ravafchie,  and  ordering  his  fuppcr  to  be  got  ready,  ate 
it  in  the  open  air  at  a  little  diftance  from  the  barque* 
In  the  mean  while,  a  lervant  of  one  of  the  priefts, 
who  had  been  robbed  of  a  riding-coar,  went  to  make 
his  complaint  to  the  calhif,  who  by  this  time  began  to 
grow  drunk.  He  fell  into  a  violent  pafTion,  rofe  up, 
drew  his  fabre,  and  fwore  that  whoever  had  commtt- 
icd  the  robbery  fliouki  forfeit  his  life.     The  coat  was 

foon 


1/    ". 


I 

.1 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT*      2%s 

foen  found,  and  the  flavc  who  had  dole  it  threw  hitn- 
felf  at  his  feet  to  implore  his  mercy ;  our  travellers 
alfo  entreated  for  him,  and  he  was  happily  pardoned  : 
for  had  Baram  killed  him,  they  would  have  been 
obliged  to  pay  him  for  the  lols.  This  was  die  leall: 
that  could  have  happened  from  it :  they  were  there- 
fore much  concerned  at  the  fervant's  having  carried 
his  complaint  to  the  cafhif  without  their  knowledge  j 
but  he  did  not  forefee  the  confequence. 

Batam  cafhif,  before  he  left  the  barque,  had  obliged 
them  to  pay  two  fevillans  to  each  of  the  bullies  he 
had  brought  with  him.  He  himfclf  had  fqucezed 
them  the  whole  day,  and  had  left  off  aflcing,  only 
becaufe  he  faw  nothing  more  to  afk  for :  but  now  he 
icemcd  defirous  to  return  to  the  charge  i  and  fcnc 
them  word  that  he  dedgned  to  come  to  the  barque  to 
take  his  leave  of  them  :  but  the  brother  of  the  aga 
of  Allpuan,  who  had  fupped  with  him,  prevented 
it  i  by  reprefcnting  that  he  had  fqueezed  them  fo 
much,  that  they  were  provoked  beyond  all  patience, 
,  and  that  he  would  not  be  anfwerable  for  his  life,  if 
he  attempted  fo  much  as  to  enter  the  barque  again. 

Notwitliftanding  the  cafliif  was  drunk,  thefe  repre- 
lentarions  had  their  e&ctft,  and  he  contented  himlelf 
wich  fending  his  wiflies  of  a  good  voyage  ■,  but  let 
them  know,  that  he  had  jiift  received  intelligence 
that  his  fultana  was  brought  to  bed,  and  defircd  they 
would  be  fo  good  as  to  make  the  child  a  prefent  of 
fcrnie  filver  baubles.  They  promifed  to  fend  rhem, 
but  took  care  not  to  do  it  till  they  were  ready  to  de- 
part. At  lalt  they  found  thcmfclves  happily  cfcaped 
out  of  the  hands  of  this  tyranr,  and  congratulated 
each  other  on  being  qui:  at  io  cheap  a  rate.  As  they 
had  no  wind,  they  had  recourfe  to  their  oars,  which, 
with  the  affiftance  of  the  current,  made  them  advance 
fo  faft,  that  they  foon  loft  fight  of  the  fire  Baram  ca- 
ihif  had  kindled  in  order  to  warm  himfelf. 

In  this  paflagc  from  Aflbuan  to  Derri  there  is  the 
greattft  difficulty  in  getting  provifions,  noihinf*  is  "^ 

Vol.  VI.  q^  °     be 


226       POCOCKB  andNORDEN's 

be  found  but  a  few  fhi-ip  and  goats  that  are  extrcam- 
ly  lean,  end  the  latter  <:oo..i  for  nothing.  Poultry  is 
vcf)'  fcarcc,  and  con!i-i;ujntly  eggs  are  not  common  j 
will',  rcrriirtl  ^o  brc.;ci,  tl:e  nativt-s  grind  no  more  corn 
th.-.n  tluy  w.int  for  tiic-ir  o%vn  immediate  ufe,  and  the 
cakes  they  nir.kc  of  ic,  arc  not  above  half  baked. 
Uur  v\h:it  is  Itill  niore  difiprecable,  *hen  you  pur- 
ch:'.ie  any  thin^.  its  being  fold,  delivered,  and  paid 
for,  docs  not  iiiake  a  pcrteft  fale.  Mr.  Norden's  va- 
let hud  bought  a  Il-.cep  near  Dendour,  which  one  of 
the  natives  brouglu  to  the  barque,  in  order  to  fell  it: 
afur  n:i:i:h  \vr.ir.c^ling,  he  Ictc  it  for  two  fevillans,  and 
wciu  av.av  with  tlie  money ;  but  in  half  an  hour*! 
lin.e,  rcEuiiieJ.  to  demand  his  (hcep,  olTerrng  to  give 
back  Vvbat  he  ha^i  received.  Exafperated  at  this  pro- 
ceeding, they  nfurcd  to  break  the  bargain;  befide, 
they  wunied  the  flieep.  But  the  man  being  obfli- 
n:uc,  m.Lc!*;  a  t^rribli:  outcry,  which  brought  lb  many 
of  iiis  ciiiiiirr;'nien  2.'i>■.y^t  him,  that  to  avoid  coming 
to  cx'remiriis  they  cimplicd  with  his  requeft,  on 
condition  t:t  his  returning  the  fevillans.  The  comedy 
tlid  not  end  here  :  a  nionient  after  he  returned  with 
the  fame  flieep,  fur  which  he  alkcd  three  fevillans. 
'I'hey  would  hivt  ti^rned  him  away;  but  when  he 
fi'.v  t!iat  tiiey  did  not  wani  his  fhcep,  he  pretended  to 
cbligc  t!v.  tn  to  t;".kc  i:  fur  tl;e  price  they  had  given 
him";::  i::il.  l);ey  hefiiattd  at  this.  At  Jaft  he 
came  in  an  agreement,  and  the  llitep  continued  with 
ther.i  for  oi.e  fcvillan  and  fo:r.e  mcariires  of  com, 
v.hich  was,  hov.cver,  leis  in  value  than  what  was 
given  !ii[n  at  lirib. 

Ihe  people  from  Afi^uan  to  Dcni  not  being ac- 
tiiitoir.ed  to  er.jis  the  ML-  in  can-jes,  have  different 
ways  of  I:  ppi/inv;  the  ^^an:  of  tliem.  Two  of  thcfe 
ha^e  b^!.-;:  iii:\-.'..'y  ineniicned,  and  Mr.  Nordirn  gives 
a  third.  1  iv,  y  ii':  lii'.rde  upon  a  great  p'.Lce  of  wood, 
p'acing  tlieir  cl:,'.'.ihs  nn  tlni.-  Iiui-li  in  the  form  ef  a 
iurb;inr,  and  th;-n  makin;^  u'e  <.r/  il.fir  iir.iis  ns  oars, 
crob  the  rivci- without  nu!<.h  u'Jili-iii-.y.    This  method 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT-       231 

Old  Cairo,  having  fpcnt  exaftly  three  months  in  going 
above  the  cataratt,  and  down  again. 

.  The  river  Nile,  on  which  I  fpcnt  lb  much  time,  in 
learch  of  other  curiofities,  may  itfelf  b;;  confidered  as 
one  of  the  greateft  curiofities  in  Kgypt.     The  north 
winds  beginning  to  blow  about  the  latter  end  of  May, 
drive  the  clouds  formed  by  the  vapours  of  the  Medi- 
terranean fouthward  as  far  as  the  mountains  of  Ethi- 
opia, which  flopping  their  courfe,    they  condenfe, 
and  fall  in  violent  rains,     Th^  fame  wind  alfo  drives* 
in  the  water  from  the  fea,  and  keeps  back  that  in  the 
river  in  fuch  a  manner  as  to  raifc  the  waters  above. 
The  Egyptians,  and  efpccially  the  Coptis,  arc  fond 
of  an  opinion  that  the  Nile  begins  to  rife  every  year 
on  the  fame  day ,  and  indeed  it  generally  begins  on 
the  1 8th  or  1 9th  of  June.     By  accounts  of  irs  rife  for 
three  years,  I  find  it  rofe  the  fi:  ft  fix  days  from  two  to 
five  inches  every  diy  ;  for  the  twelve  next  days,  from 
five  to  ten  inches,  and  thus  continues   lifing  till  it 
arrives  at  the  height  of  16  pikes,  or  cubits,  \A\cn  the 
canal  of  Cairo  is  cut :  after  this  it  continues  r.fing  fix 
weeks  longer  •,  but  then  the  rilb  is  only  from  three  to 
five  inr  hcs  a  day  •,  fur  fpreaJ.ing  over  the  l.ia.l,  and 
enterino;  the  canals,  rhouj-Ii  more  water  mav  ccueiid 
than  before,  yet  its  rile  is  not  fo  great;  for  after  that 
can.il  is  opened,  the  others  are  alio  opcn'jd  a:  fix^jd 
limes,  and  thoi'e  that  wa:er  the  Iowit  crjunds  the 
lad.     Thcle  canals  arc  carried  along  the  h:|^hrlt  parts 
ot  the  councrv,  that  tlie  v/ater  may  froni  them  hz  con- 
veye^l  to  ail  the  lov/or  parts.     It  is  remarkable  that  all 
other  rivers,  bcir.g  fuppl.cJ  from  rivulets,  the  ground 
is  loweic  near  the  b.ii^.ks :  b'.K  as  no  v/ater  falls  into 
the  Nile  in  its  paiiaL;e  ihmii.:;:!  thi.s  country  ;  and  as 
it  is  neceJarv  that  this  river  Ih  jukl  ovcrfiow  the  land, 
if  appears  that  the  country  of  KiVI'*^  ^^  lower  at  a 
di»lance  from  the  Nil*,  than  it  is  neir  it.     In  moft 
parts  it  appears  to  have  a  (gradual  dvrfccnc   from  the 
Nile  to  the  foot  of  tlie  hiiis,  tiat  may  b:  \xA  t )  begin* 
at  ihjfe  fandy  parts,    a  m:!^  or  two  diuanc  from 

0^4  tl;em^ 


432        POCOCKE  and  NORDEN'S 

them,  which  being  gentle  afcents,  they  arc  never 
Dverfiowed. 

The  plentiful  rifing  of  the  Nile  is  the  bleffing  of 
Egypt.  When  it  begins  to  rife,  the  plague  begins 
to  ftop  i  and  the  benefit  of  the  inundation  is  in  pro- 
portion to  the  height  to  which  the  water  rifes. 
Ei^;htccn  pikes  or  cubits  is  eftcemed  but  an  indiffer- 
ent Nile,  20  is  middling,  and  22  is  a  good  Nile,  be- 
yond which  it  feldom  rites. 

[The  authors  who  have  given  defcrtpitons  of 
Egypt,  contented  with  faying  that  the  fertility  of  the 
country  is  iolely  derived  from  the  annual  inundation 
of  ctie  Nile,  have  by  thfir  filencc  given  occaficn  to 
think,  that  Egypt  is  aparad-Llc  on  eanh,  where  ihcy 
have  ui)  need  of  plowing  the  ground,  or  fowing  it,  all 
being  [■■odv.ccrl,  as  it  wca',  fpontancoully  after  the 
draining  vt'lh-:  vvatrrs :  but  thty  arc  greatly  miftaken; 
and  I  dare  alTcr:  from  what  I  have  (cen,  that  there  is 
icarcely  a counir/  wlierc  the  land  has  greater  need  of 
culture  than  in  Hgypt.] 

Where  the  lantl  )ieb  higher  than  the  inundation 
rifes,  the  people  are  force!  by  neccflity  to  have  va- 
riuus  methods  of  raifing  the  water  by  wheels  turned 
by  oxen. 

')  lere  are  no  ftiell-filh  in  the  Nile,  except  a  kind 
of  rri'-:  1?  in  the  canal  near  Faiume,  nor  perhaps  any 
fortoi  ijlii  ■'  '*  are  in  the  rivers  of  Europe,  except 
eels  and  n.  i'L-.s-.  vhich  lalt,  with  fome  others,  at 
certair.  feafjnt  cijiiie  from  the  lea.  ]t  is  generally 
obfcrved,  tliat  the  crocodile  jias  no  tongue;  but  he 
has  a  flcfiiy  fubllance  relc^nbiing  one,  fixed  all  along 
to  the  lower  jaw,  v.hith  may  fervc  to  turn  his  meat. 
He  has  two  long  teeth  at  the  end  of  his  lower  jaw, 
anlwering  to  which  are  two  holes  above  to  receive 
them,  I'he  upper  jaw  is  moveable.  Thcfe  ani- 
mals are  very  quick  fighted ;  for  on  my  making 
a  circuit  :o  come  behind  them,  I  always  obfervcdthey 
began  to  move  gently  into  the  water,  as  foon  as  I 
came  i.i  fight  of  them  ;  there  being  a  kind  of  chan- 


nel  in  the  head  behind  each  eye,  by  which  the  view  of 
objeifls  are  conveyed  to  them  from  behind.  They 
make  a  hole  about  two  feet  deep  in  the  fand,  above 
the  water,  in  which  they  lay  their  eggs  and  cover 
them  over,  often  going  to  the  place,  and  taking  care, 
of  their  young  i  which,  when  hatched,  immediately 
run  into  the  water.  They  lay  about  fifty  eggs,  nearly 
of  the  fize  of  thofe  of  a  goofe,  which  are  25  or  30 
days  in  hatching.  The  people  learch  for  the  eggs 
with  an  iron  pike,  in  order  to  deftroy  them :  but  I 
could  get  no  account  in  Upper  Egypt  of  the  ichneu- 
mon's dciUoying  them,  or  of  his  entering  by  tlie 
mouth  of  tlic  crocodile  into  his  bowels,  and  killing 
him.  When  the  crocodile  is  on  land  he  is  always 
feen  on  the  low  banks  of  landy  iflands  near  the  water, 
with  his  head  toward  it  1  and  if  he  is  diflurbed,  he 
walks  flowly  in,  and  difappcars  by  degrees.  The 
people  fay  they  cannot  take  a  man  fwimming  in  the 
water  ;  but  if  a  man  or  beaft  (lands  by  the  river,  they 
at  once  jump  out  of  the  w.itcr,  and  feize  him  with 
their  furc  paws  :  but  if  the  diftance  be  too  great,  they 
make  a  fpring,  and  beat  down  their  prey  with  their 
tails.  Th'*  mjft  comnion  way  of  killing  them  is,  1 
believe,  by  Ihootmg  them  in  their  bciUes,  where 
their  fkin  is  foft,  and  not  like  their  backs,  armed 
with  fi  ales.  Ths  natives  fay,  that  they  make  fome 
animal  cry  at  1  di:i.ince,  and  when  a  crocodile  comes 
out,  thi;y  '^wii  \  fpear  to  which  a  rope  is  tied,  into 
his  bo  '.)  :  '.jsn  letting  him  retire  into  the  water  to 
fpcnd  ■I,"'... -If,  tiiL-y  afcerward  drag  him  out,  run  a 
pole  L- -1  ,':h  mouth,  and  leaping  upon  his  back,  lie 
Kisjaws  ijgGlher. 

Egypt  '.■ytcndi"^  on  both  the  banks  of  the  Nile  is 
but  of  a  fi.isil  brradth,  without  reckoning  the  wind- 
ings of  I,..- 1  ,'cr.  The  climate  is  very  Iiot  in  fum- 
mcr,  froTi  the  f^indy  foil,  and  its  (ituation  between 
two  ranges  of  mountains  ;  and  even  in  winter  the  fun 
Ihifics  with  great  heat  in  the  middle  of  the  day, 
though  the  nights  and  mornings  arc  very  cold.     In 


/. 


»      ^ 


e      r 


-■   •  •  »-      »   .--       .         ^  tx.    h^     ^^    J^    f 


b3tl 


i    f 


• .    .    •     • 


^  I 


'I 

•  «  < 


<    t 


X 


-  > 


—  ■      -      •        -      .    , 

-        •     ■  -  "   __  *  '  • 

1'  f  J:  ."i5 


' »    ■_  ■  _  i 


« •       ■      A    «. 


.•  •      .  >• 


f 

I  • 


r- •  -.       ■    -■      r       -      -    -       '  "^^  •    f»-^  "r-^^     T'^f* 

...  ,  !  ../'■:•.  ^  •>  V  v?::eub!e5,  the  heat 

.  •  •;/ i.-.y  :://.:  o:  tr.c  :rr».*tr  p::Lnt5  ; 

.1  !';  i..^  ovc.:-^"VcC%  ard  the  land  is 

■  I.  I'v:  J- -•;;.-:•.•  L'i    t/.j  Raman  cm- 

f     .;  •  "    »  .  'vj  •-   i^.'.^i  ';!':=;   n'iofl   part   of 

.   ,'.    .   i'l  li  .■  :^/.  Iv  c;:cunds  colo- 

il  ..  .".     i'''.y;.c  h:.s  no  grais, 

:  '    ■   \./  :;;/:■;,  inj  Lnd  with  clovcr. 


li    ' 


«-r : 


>  •  • 


:    I  ■ 


'    ».'   rj  o'Iat  c'H-!itrics.     Thofe  in 
■'  M'>r':T,   c::')!ics,    as    the    caflia, 

/     :•.  ':.;.,  .:  :•!  r":-..  oiij  OF  crcam-trcc  ; 

i  ii.M- .-.  •■  I.  »  .. .;  i'  v.v:.  I  '  (?i'  lo'.:r  footed  beads  in 
<  -  '  ;.  i  '  {•  V  0  :  .:■.(•  \\  :  ■  I.  •■.•"  pnd  rcJ,  v.'itli flaorc 
I..  I .. . ;  •  J  -  ''  V.  .  ]:\  '.. '  WW  c::  t";;  ;r  o?:cn  to  turn  the 
^y  yi\.  V. I  !i  ^•■•'-  'I  i-K*y  « S:\i\v   v.\;  cr,  and  to  plough 

I,,  i.ro."  '  '     ^  '■  •'•'-  •••■•"  '•-•■■  ■'■  '■•-•5  ila;:o  in  the  water, 
..  .    ,v». '.  w-.*'  i'.-L.-o..:  lJ  bi^.iihw;  ai:d  Vvh-jn  they' 

h:;vc 


TRAVEL'S  thOBUgh  EGYPT,  235 
bsve  not  this  convenience,  witl  lie  all  day,  like  fwine, 
wallowing  in  mud  and  water.  As  to  the  bealls  of 
burthen,  it  has  been  often  obfcrved  how  fu!prifingiy 
the  camel  is  fitted  for  travelling  in  hot  countries,  . 
where  they  will  go  eight  days  -without  i^aier.  Of 
this  1  have  been  a  wiinefs.  They  can  live  en  fuch 
little  Ihrubs  as  thefe  dcfarts  produce,  without  grafs, 
and  are  fatisfied  with  ver)'  little  com,  which  travellers 
commonly  carry  ground  into  meal,  and  tempering  it 
with  water,  cram  them  with  brge  balls.  They  travel 
about  two  miles,  or  two  miles  ar.d  a  half  in  an  hour, 
and  I  have  rode  on  them  1 6  hours  without  {topping. 
A  fmaller  fort,  called  hayjin,  pace  and  gallop  very 
fwiftly ;  and  it  ts  laid  they  will  carry  a  perfon  loo 
piiles  in  a  day.  The  fleftiy  foot  of  the  camel  is  ad- 
mirably fitted  for  travelling  on  the  hot  f^nds,  which 
would  deftroy  the  hoof.  The  Arabs  do  not  kill  the 
famel  for  foodj  but  the  Turks  eat  the  flelh  of  the 
young  ones  as  a  moft  delicate  diOi  -,  but  will  not  per- 
mit it  to  be  eaten  by  Chriftians,  probably  that  the 
breed  may  not  be  deftroyed. 

The  horfcs,  especially  thofc  of  Upper  Egypr,  arc 
very  fine,  but  their  necks  are  too  Ihori.  'i  hty  walk, 
well,  never  (rot,  and  gallop  with  great  fpe^d,  turn 
jhort.  Hop  in  a  moment,  and  are  extreamty  tractable; 
but  are  only  fit  to  walk  in  travelling,  and  cannot  per- 
fjrm  long  journics.  In  the  heat  of  rummer,  when 
there  is  no  grafs,  they  arc  fed  wirh  chopped  llraw, 
"When  they  go  in  proccflion,  their  trappings  are  ex- 
ceeding fine,  and  orruintnicd  with  lilvcr,  or  filvcr 
gilt.  In  Cairp  all  but  tin;  great  ride  on  affes  :  thefc 
are  a  fine  large  breed,  and  there  are  laid  to  be  40,000 
of  them  in  that  city. 

Antelopes  are  common  about  Alexandria,  ar.d  in 
other  places ;  they  have  longer  horns,  anJ  are  more 
beautiful  than  in  other  countries.  'J'hc  fjxcs  and 
hares  are  of  a  light  colour;  b.it  the  la:tcr  arc  noc 
very  common.      The  tyger,    and  tlic   dubL;.-:-,    or 

l.jLCnj, 


ajS      POCOCKE  and  NORDEt^'a 

hyoTia,  arc  very  rare ;  however,  there  arc  fome  near 
Alexandria. 

Among  the  winged  tribe  the  oftrich  deferves  the 
preference.  It  is  called  in  Arabic  ter  gimel,  or  the 
camel  bird ;  becaufc  in  its  head,  neck,  and  walk,  it 
rctembles  a  camel.  This  bird  is  common  on  the 
mountains  fouth-weft  of  Alexandria :  its  fat  is  fold  by 
the  Arabs,  and  ufed  as  an  ointment  for  all  cold 
tnnio'jrs,  the  palfy  and  the  rheumatifm.  There  is 
here  a  kind  of  large  domeftic  hawk  of  a  brown  colour, 
with  a  very  fine  eye :  thcfe  frequent  the  tops  of 
houfes ;  and  one  may  fee  the  pigeons  and  thcfe  hawks 
ftanding  dole  together;  but  though  they  are  not 
birds  of  prey,  they  eat  flefli  where  they  find  it.  The 
natives  never  kill  them,  and  as  well  as  their  anceftors, 
fecm  to  have  a  veneration  both  for  thefe  birds  and  for 
cats.  On  the  iflands  in  the  Nile  I  faw  great  numbers 
cf  the  ibis,  which  was  held  in  great  veneration  by  the 
ancient  Kgyptians,  becaufc  thefc  birds,  it  is  faid,  de- 
livered the  country  from  multitudes  of  ferpcnts,  that 
bred  in  the  ground  after  the  Nile  retired.  They 
idcnible  the  crane,  are  of  a  greyifh  colour  with  th^ 
wings  and  tail  black. 

The  natives  of  Egypt  are  now  a  very  indolent  peo- 
ple, who  delight  in  fitting  ftill  and  in  heating  rales  ; 
indeed  they  appear  to  have  been  always  more  fit  for  a 
quiet,  than  an  active  life  j  this  may  be  in  a  great 
mcafure  owing  to  the  heat  of  the  country,  by  which 
they  are  enervated.  They  are  alio  mifchievous  and 
envious,  wh'ch  keeps  them  from  uniting  and  fetting 
up  forihenifelvcs.  The  Mahometan  inhabitants  are 
cither  original  natives,  who  live  in  the  villages,  or  of 
the  Arab  race.  The  latter  are  divided  into  thofe  who 
are  alfo  fettled  in  the  villages,  and  are  generally  an 
honcfi:  people,  and  thofe  who  live  under  tents ;  thefe 
lail  are  cailtd  Btdoui,  and  chicHy  fubfift  on  the  cattle 
they  graze,  which  are  principally  camels  and  goats, 
that  feed  on  luiall  fhrubs.     The  Turks,  who  are  thus 

namec) 


and 


TRAVELS  through  EGYPT.      a^>' 

led  to  diflingiiifh  them  from  the  narivps  of  tfiji'' 
luntry,  and  the  Arabs,  are  thofe  fenc  by  the  grand 
fignior,  and  the  (laves.  The  governing  party  is  tikcn 
from  among  them  and  iheir  defcendants.  Thefc  are 
the  moft  covetous  of  money,  and  moft  dclirous  of 
power:  they  diftinguifh  tliemlelves  from  the  others 
by  what  is  ftriftly  the  Turkifli  drcfs. 

Many  of  the  children  in  the  coimtr)'  go  naked  all 
the  year  round,  as  almofl:  all  of  them  do  if)  I'uinmer. 
The  moft  fimple  drefs  in  Egypt  probably  refcmbica 
the  primitive  manner  of  cloathiiig»  and  has  fometliing 
like  that  of  the  ancient  Egyptians,  who  were  clad  in 
linen,  with  a  woollen  garment  over  it.  They  wear  a 
long  rtiirt  with  wide  fleeves,  commonly  tied  about 
the  middle.  Over  this  the  common  people  have  a 
brown  woollen  Ihirt,  and  thole  of  fupcriur  rank,  a 
long  cloth  coat,  and  then  a  long  blue  (lilit:  but  in 
the  drcfs  of  ceremony  they  wear  inftead  of  a  blite,  a 
white  Iliirc,  which  in  Upper  Egypt  they  put  on  upon 
fcftival  days,  and  to  pay  great  vifnsi  in  the  lower 
parts  they  life  a  garment  of  the  iamc  form  of  black 
woollen,  which  is  fomctimes  left  open  before ;  and 
perlbns  of  rank  have  them  of  cloth  and  furred.  Mott 
of  them  ijfcar  under  all  a  pair  of  linen  drawers  ;  but 
do  not  put  the  (hirt  into  them. 

It  is  almoft  a  general  cuftom  of  the  native  Arabs 
and  Mahometans  to  wear  a  white  or  brown  blanket, 
and  in  fummer  a  blue  and  whi:c  cotton  (licet:  this 
the  Ciiriftians  alfo  conflantly  ufc  in  liu-  councrv, 
wrapping  it  round  their  bodies,  over  the  left  fliouIJcr, 
and  under  the  right  arm,  which  is  Ict't  ficj.  1  par- 
'  ;glarly  obfcrved  that  about  Faiume,  young  pcupie, 
lil  the  poorer  ibrc  wore  no  other  covering. 
i^hc  Chriftijns  of  the  country,  with  tijc  janizarifS, 
ie  Arabs,  and  Egyptians,  wear  Ilippcrs  of  red  lea- 
ther, while  thofe  of  the  Jews  are  blue.  AVithin  doort 
the  Turks  and  Chriiliani  in  the  city,  out  of  frugality, 
ir  a  kind  of  wooden  clogs,  fomc  of  which  arc  made 
Bne.  In  thcfe  countries  people  arc  very  much 
litlliiiguilhcd 


238       POCOCKE  and  NORDEN's 

diftinguilhed  by  tlie  drefs  of  tlieir  head  and  their  feet ; 
llicy  are  fined  if  they  do  not  follow  the  cuftoni ;  and 
none  but  foreign  Chriftians  are  allowed  to  wear  yellow 
flippers. 

The  drefs  of  the  women  is  not  much  unlike  that  of 
the  men,  only  thpir  drawers,  and  moftof  their  otlicr 
garments  are  of  filk :  all  but  their  outer  drefs  are 
ihorter  than  the  mens,  and  their  flecvcs  hang  down 
very  low.  Tliey  have  a  white  woollen  fliull  cap ; 
their  heaJs  are  befide  drenVd  with  an  embroidered 
handkerchief,  and  their  hair  platted  round  it.  They 
have  a  large  black  veil  that  comes  over  all,  and  fonie- 
tliing  of  gauze  that  covers  ilie  face  j  for  as  it  is 
eftcemcd  a  great  indecency  to  Ihew  the  whole  face, 
they  generally  cover  the  mouth  and  one  eye,  if  not 
the  whole.  The  ordiniry  women  wear  a  large  blue 
linen  or  cotton  garment,  like  a  furplicc ;  and  before 
their  faces  hang  a  kind  of  bib,  joined  to  their  head- 
drcfs,  by  a  tape  over  the  nofe;  the  fpace  between 
being  only  for  the  eyes  :  this  gives  them  a  very  odd 
appearance.  The  women  among  the  vulgar,  efpe- 
cially  the  blacks,  alfo  wear  rings  in  their  noles,  orna- 
mented with  glafs  beads.  They  have  large  car-rings, 
three  inches  in  diameter,  that  come  round  the  ear, 
and  arc  adorned  with  ftones.  Th^-y  alfo  wearftonc- 
rings  on  their  lingers  :  ihofe  of  the  ordinary  people 
are  of  lead ;  but  the  better  fort  have  them  of  gold. 
Their  bracelets  are  commonly  of  wire  ■,  but  fomc  arc 
of  gold  finely  jointed  ;  Liut  there  are  fome  of  plain 
iron  or  bral's.  The  vulgar  women  paint  their  lips, 
and  the  tip  of  their  chin  with  bliic  ;  and  thole  of  fu- 
perior  rank  paint  their  nails  and  ftct  yellow,  and  their 
eyelids  blac!:. 

The  F.gyprian:  are  but  an  ill-Iorj!-ing  people  ;  manjr 
or'thciii  an-  fair  when  younf^;  but  tlie  fun  afterward 
renders  thr:n  f-.varthy.  They  are  very  dirry  and 
liovifnly,  efptcially  th'j  Coptic-,  and  as  table  linen  is 
I'^ldom  or  never  tif-d  by  tlic  l'gyp:ir.ns,  the  Arabs 
and  the  Coptir,  I -have  obfcrvcd  tl'it  latr^T,  jiftcr 
walhing 


TRAVELS  thTX>ugh  EGYPT.       239 

waflilng  their  haads  when  they  have  eaten,  wipe  tiem 
with  the  great  fleeves  of  their  Ihirts.  Both  the  Turks 
and  Egyptians  arc  very  frugal  in  their  manner  of 
living :  the  latter  fcldom  eat  meat,  and  the  tables  of 
the  great  men  arc  of  little  expence  to  them,  confidcr- 
ing  the  number  of  their  attendants,  in  which  they  are 
very  extravagant.  It  is  comnrwn  for  them  to  have 
fifty  or  fixty  flaves,  and  a  great  number  of  other 
fervants  and  dependants;  the  cloathing  of  their 
flaves  is  however  a  great  expence,  as  is  alio  their 
keeping  many  horfcs ;  it  being  common  for  them  to 
have  from  50  to  200. 

None  but  people  of  the  middle  rank  refort  to  coHce- 
houies.  Some  of  thefe  have  mufic  at  certain  hours  of 
the  day ;  and  in  others  a  man  tells  fome  hiflory  or  a 
fort  of  Arabian  tale,  with  a  very  good  grace.  Tradcf- 
men  often  fend  to  have  their  provifions  brought  to 
cofFee-houfcs ;  and  thofe  who  have  nothing  to  do  pais 
whole  days  in  them. 

As  to  the  religion  of  Egypt,  the  Coptic  is  that  of 
the  native  Chriltians  of  the  country.  The  Greeks 
arc  very  numerous  at  Cairo  and  in  Dalmatia  •,  but 
there  are  not  many  in  Rolctto,  Alexandria,  and  the 
other  parts  of  Egypt,  except  a  few  merchants  in  the 
principal  towns.  There  arc  but  very  few  Armenians 
at  Cairo,  though  they  have  a  church  in  tiiac  city. 

The  Chrillian  religion  would  be  ilill  at  a  lower  ebb, 
did  not  the  people  find  it  convenient  to  have  Copti 
ftewards  of  their  cftates,  who  are  well  acquainted  with 
all  affairs,  and  are  very  expert  at  keeping  accounts, 
which  they  do  in  a  Ibrt  ot  Coptic  charadtcrs  under- 
ftood  by  nobody  elfc.  Thefe  are  the  proreclors  of 
the  Chriftliins  in  every  village.  The  Cof-^tis,  how- 
ever,  feem  to  be  the  mod  irreverent  and  circlets  i:i 
their  devorions  of  all  the  Falterns.  I'he/  loend  ihc 
night  before  Sundays  and  feliivals  in  thcrir  churclic\ 
and  pafs  their  hoiydays  in  launtring  abr^u: ;  firrir-r 
under  their  walls  in  winter,  tind  under  (hadv  trees  ;ii 
funj.'ixT.     Th'vV  f.em  to  :i:i;;k  tiiat  all  iel-.;ion  con- 


240       POCOCKE  and  NORDEN-a 

flits  in  repeating  their  long  fervices,  and  in  ftrl&ly 
obferving  their  numerous  falls.  Both  the  priefts  and 
people  are  extreamly  ignorant :  the  former  perform 
the  fervice  in  the  Coptic  language  by  rote,  of  which 
they  generally  underftand  very  little;  but  they  have 
books  of  their  liturgy,  with  the  Arabic  interpretation. 
They  abftain  from  blood  and  things  ftranglcd ;  pray 
for  the  dead,  and  proftrate  themfelves  before  piftures ; 
but  have  no  images  except  a  crucifix. 

The  Coptis  bear  an  implacable  hatred  to  the  Greeks, 
and  have  generally  as  litile  regard  for  the  Europeans, 
■which  in  a  grca:  meafure  proceeds  from  the  endea- 
vours of  thoic  of  the  liomifh  church  to  make  con- 
verts of  ihcm.  They  rarely  didiiiguifti  between  thole 
of  different  religions,  but  include  all  under  the  name 
of  Franks. 

As  the  Jews  were  In  times  of  Paganifm  afraid  of 
■  drinking  wine  offered  to  it' ols,  they  ftill  have  here  all 
tliey  drink  made  n-i  by  their  own  people,  fealed  up, 
and  fcnt  to  them  :  this  cuftom  they  obferve  through- 
out all  the  Eafl.  They  hnvc  36  fynagogues  in  Cairo, 
and  one  in  Old  Cairo.  There  is  a  particular  fc6t 
among  them  who  live  by  themfelves,  and  have  a  fe- 
parate  fynagogue.  Thcfe  are  the  ancient  ElTencs, 
and  have  now  the  name  of  CUaraims  :  they  are  dlftin- 
guilhed  by  the  regard  they  pay  to  the  five  books  of 
Moles,  which  they  ftriftly  obferve  according  to  the 
letter,  not  receiving  any  written  traditions. 

Education  in  Egypt  confifts  in  little  more  than 
learning  to  read  and  write,  which  the  Coptis  generally 
learn,  together  with  book-keeping  :  but  few  of  the 
Arabs  and  native  Mahomtrians  can  read,  except  thofc 
bred  to  the  law,  or  fome  employ.  The  (laves  have 
the  beil  education  ;  for  they  underftand  Arabic  and 
Turkilb,  and  often  write  both:  they  are  alfo  well 
ikillcd  in  ri'-iing,  ihooting,  and  throwing  the  darCi 
which  are  etleemed  great  accompliftimcnts.  The 
Turks  in  particular  arc  deei)ly  tinftured  with  the  doc- 
trine of  prcdcftination,  wiiich  not  only  inlpircs  them 

wiUi 


RAVELS  through  EGYPT.        241 


with  courage,  but  makes  them  flicw  great  magnani- 
mity when  thrown  from  the  heighc  of  power  "mto  the 
inoft  milcrable  condition  ;  indeed  they  behave  better 
in  advcrQty  than  in  prolpcrity;  thoiigfi  when  in  higU 
ftadoDS  they  alTume  a  bccn-iiing  gravity,  and  confer  ii 
favour  with  3  very  gricious  countenance:  but  they 
are  greedy  of  money  ;  and  nothing  is  to  be  done  with 
them  without  a  bribe.  They  fancy  that  the  greateft 
villanies  are  expiated  as  foon  as  they  have  w^ilhcd  their 
hands  and  feet.  This  b  their  preparation  for  prayer. 
The  outward  appearance  of  religion  is  in  ^lifaion 
among  them.  They  pray  in  the  moft  public  places; 
and  when  on  a  viOt  will  call  for  w^ater  to  wafii  cheir 
hands  and  fccr,  and  then  perform  their  devotions : 
and  yet  their  words  pafs  for  nothing,  either  in  rel>^ 
lions,  promifes,  or  profeflionsof  friendihip.  Opium 
is  not  fo  much  ufed  by  them  as  formerly,  inftead  of 
which  they  drink  fpirituous  liquors  very  plentifully  at 
their  meals.  BUt  thefc  are  chiefly  the  great  men  and 
the  foldiers ;  for  drinking  ftrong  liquors  would  be 
reckoned  fcandalous  in  people  of  bufmcfs.  The  Arabs 
indeed  very  rarely  drink ;  and  ttie  common  people 
pound  the  leaves  of  green  hemp,  make  a  ball  ot  it, 
and  fwallow  it,  to  render  them  chearful.  They  have 
a  high  opinion  of  (he  magic  art,  and  think  there  is 
much  virtue  in  charms  and  talifmans. 

The  poorcft  Mahometan  thinks  himH-If  fuperior  to 
any  Chriftian  :  yet  the  Arabs  and  people  of  the  coun- 
try behave  with  civility;  they  come  and  fit  about 
you,  and  grow  troubtcfomc  by  being  too  obfcrving, 
curious,  and  inquifitive.  The  Turks  alfo  will  be  vjry 
civil,  cither  to  get  prefents,  or  to  difcover  your  de-  . 
iigns;  in  which  ihcy  are  very  artful.  They  beluve 
with  the  greateft  decorum  and  rclpe£t  to  their  fupfirj 
riors;  and  one  of  great  dignity,  readily  holds  the  ■ 
ftirnip  of  another  who  is  ftill  greater.  The  way  of 
faluting  as  they  pafs,  is  ftretching  cut  the  right  band, 
"  pngiig  't  to  [he  breaft,  a  little  inclining  ths  head. 
-Vol.  VI.  R  1  lie 


■  242       TRAVELS  through  EGYPT. 

The  extraordinary  falute  is  kifluig  the  hand,  and  put- 
ting it  to  the  head.  When  they  vififa  fupcrior,  ihey 
kiis  his  hand ;  but  if  he  is  greatly  fupcrior,  they  kifs 
the  hem  of  his  garment.  When  they  take  any  thing 
from  a  fupcrior,  or  that  is  fent  by  a  fupcrior,  they 
kifs  ir,  and  put  it  to  their  foreheads  ;  and  when  they 
promifc  to  ferve  or  proteft  you,  they  put  their 
hands  up  to  the  turbans,  as  much  as  to  iay^  Be  it  on 
our  heads. 

The  entertainments  of  the  Turks  and  Arabs  have 
been  often  mentioned  ';  and  I  ftiall  only  add  here,  that 
an  Arab  prince  will  often  dine  in  the  ftreet  before  his 
door,  and  call  to  all  that  pafs,  and  even  to  beggars, 
:crying  in  ihe  uiual  manner,  In  the  name  of  God; 
upon  which  they  fit  down  ;  and  when  they  have  done, 
■retire,  faying,  Godbe  praifcd.  Witbfuch  gcnerc^ty 
and  hofpitaiity  they  maintain  their  intereft:  yet  .the 
middling  people  and  the  Coptis  live  but  meanly. 


[     243     ] 


T    R     A     V     E     L     S     _   • 

THROUGH  - 

B     A     R     B     A     R     Y, 

BY 

T.  SHAW,   D.  D.  and   F.iR.  S. 

BAR  B ARY  begins  on  the  weft  at  Mount  Atlas, 
extending- nonh-eaftward  alongthe  coalt  of  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  to  CapeSpartel;  and  then  bending 
eaftward,  forms  the  ibuth  coaft  of  t|ie  Straights  oi 
..Gibraltar,  and  afterward  the  fouth  i^oaft  of  tlic  Me- 
diterranean as  far  as  the  city  of  Alexandria,  which  is 
the  wcftcrn  boundary  of  Egypt,  where  that  country- 
joins  to  Barbary.  Both  coalts,  whctiier  that  walhcd 
by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  or  by  tlie  Mofliterranean,  are 
extreamly  fertile  in  corn  and  paf^res  i  the  former 
being  watered  by  many  large  and  fmall  rivers,  which 
flow  from  Mount  Atlas,  and  difchaigc  ihemfclves  into 
the  ocean ;  while  the  other  extends  itfelf  along  t!ie 
declivity  of  a  vaft  range  of  mountains,  fome  of  them 
of  a  confidtrable  height,  and  fprcad  in  depth  above 
40  leagues  into  the  inland  country.  They  are  wa- 
tered by  a  multitude  of  rivers,  whith,  after  a  long 
courfe,  and  various  windings,  through  a  valt  variety 
.of  pleafant  and  fertile  vallics,  difcnarge  ihenifelvcji 
-iqio  the  Mediterranean. 

.__  Barbary  was  by  turns  pofllfleJ  by  the  Cartlu/;!- 
.nians,  Romans,  Greeks,  Saracens,  Vand;ili,  Ar.iU;, 
-^oors,  and  Turks j  befide  the  variou'*  atteiipr.* 
.made  hy  the  Spaniards,  Fortiigue;c,  and  wth'Ji  i.'n'.. 


244  Dr.  SHAW'S  TRAVELS 

pcan  nations  who  have  formed  fettlemems  in  fomr 
pans  of  this  coall,  which  ftretchcs  from  eaft  to  weft 
near  2000  miles  in  length,  and  in  fome  places  750 
in  breadth.  It  was  known  to  the  ancients  by  the 
name  of  Mawritania,  Niimidia,  Africa  Proper,  and 
Lybia;  and  is  the  beft  country  in  all  Africa,  except 
Egypt  and  (he  country  about  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
Dr.  Shaw,  who  refidcd  at  Algir rs  for  twelve  years 
in  quality  of  chaplain  to  the  Britifh  faftory  there,  has 
in  his  account  of  Barbary,  ranged  his  oblervations 
under  di(lin£t  heads,  without  mentioning  the  time, 
place,  or  manner,  in  which  they  were  made.  But  as 
the  method  of  furveying  thcTe  countries ;  the  diet  and 
reception  of  the  traveller,  with  the  hardlhips  and 
*  dan^rs  to  which  he  is  expoled,  ought  not  to  be 

f)ail^d  over  in  filence,  he  gives  the  reader  in  mk  vinr, 
iich  material  circumftances  and  obfervatsons,  as  might 
have  been  difperfed  through  his  travels. 

The  reader  is  therefore  to  be  informed,  lays  he*. 
that  in  the  feveral  maritime  towns  of  Barbary  where 
Britifh  factories  arc  cllablilhed,  I  was  cnteruined  withi 
extraordinary  marks  of  generofity  and  friendihip, 
having  the  ufe  not  only  of  their  houfes,  but  of  their 
horlcs,  their  janizaries  andfcrvants.  In  the  inlanct 
towns  and  villages  there  is  generally  a  houfc  fet  apart 
for  the  reception  of  ftrangers,  with  a  proper  ofhcer 
to  attend  it,  where  perfons  arc  lodged  and  enteitained 
for  one  nighr,  at  the  expence  of  the  community,  in 
the  bed  manner  the.  place  will  afford  :  but  except  ic 
tScfc,  and  the  places  before  mentioned,  i  met  with 
n^  houfes  of  entertainment,  through  the  whole  courfe 
of  my  travels.  I  he  furnitliing  ourfelves  with  tents- 
would  not  only  have  been  attended  with  expence  tad 
trouble,  but  would  have  rail'ed  the  fufpictoa  of  the 
Arabs  :  if  therefore,  in  the  courfe  of  our  traveb,.  we 
did  not  fail  in  with  the  hovels  of  the  Kabyiei,  «■  the 
encampments  of  the  Arabs,  we  had  nothing  to  pro- 
tcft  u?  cither  from  the  fcorching  heat  of  the  fun  by 
iiay,  or  the  cold  of  the  night,  unleis  we  had  the  hsp- 

pincfi 


tlirough  BARBARY. 


pincfc  to  find  a  grove  of  trees,  the  (hclf  of  a  rock,  or 
iTomctimcs  by  good  t'ortiinc  found  a  cave.  When  this 
■happened,  which  was  indeed  but  fcldom,  our  hoiies 
were  the  grcatellJ'uflcrers  :  they  were,  however,  our 
firft  cace,  and  wc  gathered  for  them  graft,  ftubble, 
boughs  of  trees,  and  fuch  like  provender,  before  wc 
ikt  down  to  examine  what  fragments  of  a  former  meal 
were  refcrvcd  for  ourfelves. 

When  in  travelling  in  Barbary,  wc  were  fo  fortunate 
aslo  find  an  encampmentof  the  Arabs,  for  wc  were 
not  fond  of  vifiting  the  Kabyles,  who  are  not  (o  eafily 
manaoed  ;  we  were  entertained  for  one  night  on  free 
coft,  and  furnjihed  with  a  fufficient  quantity  of  provi- 
fions  for  ourfelves  and  our  horfes  -,  befide  a  bowl  of 
milk,  and  a  balket  of  raifins,  date?,  figs,  or  other 
dried  fruit,  gencrouily  prefented  to  us  upon  our 
arrival.  The  mailer  of  the  tent  wtjere  we  lodged, 
fetched  us,  according  to  the  number  of  our  company* 
either  a  kid,  a  goat,  a  lamb,  or  ftieep,  half  of  whicti 
was  immediately  boiled  by  his  wife,  and  ferved  up 
withcufcufu;  the  reft  was  ufualiy  roalled,  andrelcrved 
for  our  dinner  or  breakfaft  the  next  day. 

But  though  the  tents  of  the  roving  Jierdfmcn  may 
Ihclter  us  fro^i  the  weather,  ihey  arc  not  without  their 
inconvcniencies ;  for  the  cold  and  the  dews  to  which 
we  were  every  night  cxpofcd  in  the  defaris  of  Arabia, 
are  much  more  fupportablc  than  the  vermin  anil 
infefls,  which  conftantly  molefted  us  iiere  :  for  befide 
ficas  and  lice,  which  are  here  in  all  quarters,  the  ap> 
prehenfions  we  were  under  of  being  bit  or  ftung  hy 
ihe  viper,  the  fcorpion,  or  the  venomous  fpider, 
rarely  fail,  in  fome  parts  of  thefe  countries,  to  incer* 
nipt  the  reft  io  grateful  to  a  weary  traveller.  Indeed 
upon  fight  of  one  of  thefe  vcoumous  creaiurei,  a 
tbaieb  or  writer,  who  happened  to  be  one  of  my  fpa* 
hees,  after  he  had  itiuticrcd  a  few  words,  exhorted 
us  all  (o  take  courage,  as  he  had  made  it  tame  and 
harmlcli,  by  his  charms  and  incantations.  Wc  are 
aUb  ao  Jds  ofictuled  by  their  kids,  calves,  and  other 
R  3  j-oung 


ft4«      Hb.  smaws  travels 

young  cattle,  that  are  every  night  tied  up  in  the  tenWi* 
lo  prevent  tlieir  fiickint;  their  dams ;  tor  the  cords 
being  generally  maiie  ot  loufc  fpun  yarn,  they  vrerc' 
continually  breaking  loofe  and  trampling  over  us. 

When  we  were  entertained  in  a  courteous  manner, 
which  was  not  always  the  cafe,  I  ul'ed  to  give  the 
mailer  of  the  tent  a  knite,  a  couple  of  flints,  or  a 
little  Knglifli  gunpuwdcr,  which  being  much  ftrongcr 
than  iheirs,  they  highly  cft.^'em,  and  keep  it  to  ferve 
as  priming  for  their  tire-arms :  and  if  his  wife  wa« 
obliging  in  making  cur  cufciifu  favoury  and  with 
expedition,  (lie  would  return  a  tlioufand  thanks  for  a 
pair  of  fciflars,  a  large  needle,  or  a  flttran  of  thread, 
which  ar^  great  rarities. 

Durin;^  the  cxcclTive  heats  of  fummer,  and  parti- 
cularly when  we  v;tre  afraid  of  meeting  with  a  party 
of  the  Arab  freebooters,  we  travelled  in  the  night » 
which  according  to  their  proverb,  'having  no  eyes,' 
few  of  them  daie  to  venture  ab;cad,  fryni  iheir  not 
knowing  what  dangers  and  ambulbadcs  they  may  fall 
into..  We  had  then  frequent  rcaloii  to  rail  to  mind 
the  words  of  the  I'falmiil,  "  Thou  makert  darkncft 
that  it  may  be  niftht ;  wherein  .ill  the  bcafts  of  the 
ibrcfts  do  move.  1  he  lions  roaring  Sfier  tiicir  prey  :" 
ihe  leopards,  hyrcnns,  and  a  variety  of  oth'.-r  ravenous 
beails  calling;  to  r.nd  ar.r'.vei'ir-,'?  <.ach  cth'-T;  the  dif- 
ferent fcxes,  by  tl-.is  mtMns,  j;i.riiap.s  finding  out,  and 
correl|x)ndinp:  with  I'loir  m.v>',*s :  tkt!e  lounds  awfully 
broke  in  upon  x.)\c  loiiriuic.  and  defbroj-ed  the  ideas 
of  the  faiVty  wc  ibu|iht  bv:  travelling  ai  this  feafon. 

We  did  not  a:wL:yst;ike  liages  ot'ahc  i'jme  length  j 
for  when  under  the  apprehtnlion  of  danger,  we  tra- 
velled thiough  all  r!ic  Py-paths  that  were  known  to 
nur  condutiors,  without  relting,  frtmetimcs  12  or  15 
hours  tr,2;e:htT :  b'lt  an  ordinary  day\  journey,  exclu- 
fivejjf  the  time  taken  up  in  making;  obfcrvations, 
]( 1  'om  c\cfcdc!i  lipht  or  nine  hours.  ■  Wcconftantly 
rt-li:;  at  brtak  (.f  d.iy,  :tnd  iettint:  ferv.ard  with  tht 
fun,  uavcilet.1  iiU  tlic  niiddle  of  the  aftcrjioon,  when 


through  BARBARY, 


«+? 


we  began  to  look  our  for  the  encampments  of  the 
Arabs;  who,  to  prevent  fuch  parties  as  ours  coming 
to. live  upon  them,  chulc  Inch  placts  asar"  Icafl:  con- 
fpiciious.  And  indeed,  unicls  we  difcovercd  .  the 
fmol^e  of  their  tents,  heard  the  barking  of  their  dogs, 
or  obfcrved  fomc  of  their  flocks,  it  was  with  difficulty 
we  were  able  to  find  them,  and  all  our  labour  was  frc- 
quenily  jnefiectual.  When  we  came  up  wi;h  them» 
wc  were  accommodated,  as  1  have  already  laid,  for 
one  night,  and  if  in  travelling  the  next  day 

'  i. We  chanc'd  to  find 

A  new  repaft,  or  an  uniaflcd  *p.'"i'igi 

We  blcll  our  flats,  and  [hough:  it  tyxury.' 

ADDlSOITf 

In  tlie  Holy  Land,  and  upon  the  idhmus  between 
Egypt  and  the  Red  Sea,  our  conductors  canr.ot  be 
tpo  numerous  ;  but  in  Barbary,  where  the  Arabs  are 
untler  great  fobjedion,  1  was  rarely  attended  by  more 
than  three  fpahces  and  a  I'ervant,  all  of  us  well  armed: 
tjjough  we  were  Ibmetifiie  obliged  lo  augment  our 
numbers,  pariiculariy  when  we  travelled  among  the 
independant  Arabs  on  the  frontiers  of  the  neighbour- 
ic^  kingdoms,  or  when  two  conilguous  clans  were  ac 
y^riancc;  ihcfe  and  tlie  freebooters  make  no  fcruple 
of  plundering  and  murthering,  not  only  Itrangcrs,  but 
one  another. 

.The  belt  method  to  prevent  falling  into  their  hands, 
U  for  a  traveller  to  be  always  dreifed  in  the  habit  of 
the  country,  or  like  one  of  the  rp-ihcc;..  For  the 
Atabs  are  jealous,  and  inquifitive,  fufpcding  every 
l^ranger  to  be  a  fpy,  fent  to  take  a  fucvey  of  ihoi 
laruls,  which,  at  one  time  or  other,  they  are  taught  - 
Ipjicar  will  be  reftorcd  to  the  Chriftians. 
.  ;l  cannot  help  heicobkrving,  that  a  traveller  can 
•  w^arce  fail  of,  tailing  into  a  fcriuus  tniin  of  thoufjit, 
wjicn  he  obfcrvcs  fuch  large  iccnes  of  ruin  and  defo- 
liltiaa  as  are  fcen  in  thdc  couiunes, .  He  isAruck 
R  4  with 


248         Dr.  S^AWs  TRAVELS 

with  the  folitudc  of  the  few  domes  and  porticoes  that 
•re  left  ftanding,  which  h'lftory  tells  him  were  once 
Croiidcd  with  inhabitants :  where  Scyphax  and  Mifi- 
nifla,  Scipio  and  Cicfar ;  where  the  orthodox  Chrif- 
tians  and  the  Arians,  the  Saracens  and  the  Turks, 
have  in  their  turns  given  laws.  Every  pile,  every 
heap  of  mins  points  out  to  him  the  wcakiKfs  and  in- 
ftabUity  of  ail  human  art  and  contrivance,  reminding 
him  of  the  many  thoufarsi',':  that  lie  buried  below,  no# 
loft  in  oblivion,  ar.d  fbrcotctn  to  the  world, 

Two  of  the  r.-;oft  coniiderable  diftrifts  of  that  part 
of  Africa,  whicii  latter  nges  ha^-ediftinguiftied  by  the 
name  of  Barbary,  are  the  kingdoms  of  Algiers,  and 
Tunis.  The  former  is  bounded  on  the  porai  by  the 
Mediterranean  Sea;  on  ihc  caft,  by  the  river  Zaine, 
rite  ancient  Tufca,  which  fcparates  it  from  Tunis  ;  oq 
the  fouth,  by  the  Sahara,  or  defart ;  on  the  weft,  by 
the  vilbgc  of  Twiint  and  the  mouniwns  vf  Trara, 
which  Teparate  it  from  I\Torocco. .  According  to  the 
exafteft  obfervations  1  conid  make,  I  find,  its  troc 
length  from  Twunt  to  Tabarka,  to  be  460  miles,  it 
extending  from  1 6'  weft  longitude  from  London,  to 
the  river  Zaine  in  9°  16'  caft.  To  the  weft  it  is  ge- 
nerally about  60  miles  broad  j  and  the  eaftem  partis 
no  where  lefs  in  breadth  than  too  miles.  This  coun- 
try is  at  prcfent  divided  into  three  -provinces,  that  of 
Tlcmfan  to  the  i.vcft ;  the  province  of  Titterie  to  th? 
fouth,  and  of  Conftantina  to  the  caft  of  Algiers.  £ad| 
of  thefe  provinces  is  governed  by  a  bey  or  viceroy, 
appointed  and  removed  at  plcafure  by  the  dcy  of 
Algiers. 

The  remarkable  chain  of  hiils  which  get^raphers 
fometimcs  place  between  this  country  and  the  S^ara, 
and  at  others  within  thedominions  of  Algiers,  I  take 
to  be  a  continuation  of  mount  Atlas,  though  they  an 
not  fo  high  as  they  arc  n'prefenTcd  by  the  ancients  : 
for  thoiV  parts  of  them  which  I  have  feen,  are  rarely 
equal  to  fome  of  the  moft  lofty  motuitains  in  our 
iQand  j  4nd  1  queftion  whether  they  are  any  where  Iq 


through  BARBARY.  249 

^gh  as  the  Alps  or  the  Appcnines.  If  you  form  the 
idea  of  a  number  of  hills,  tifually  of  the  perpendicular 
height  of  4,  5,  or  600  yards,  with  an  tafy  afceat, 
adyrned  with  groves  of  fruit  and  forcft  rrces,  rifmg 
fucccflively  one  behind  anolher,  with  here  and  there 
a  rocky  precipice,  and  place  upon  its  fide  or  its  fum- 
(Tiit,  a  village  of  Kabyles,  cncompafied  with  a  mud 
wall,  you  will  have  a  juft  and  lively  idea  of  one  of 
ihefe  mountains  ;  and  you  will  have  no  occafion  to 
heighten  the  piftiire,  with  the  imaginary  no£turnal 
flames,  the  melodious  founds,  or  the  lafcivious  revels 
of  the  fiftitious  beings  attributed  to  them  by  the 
ancients. 

Twunt  and  the  mountains  of  Trara,  arc  the  wcftern 
conhnes  of  the  province  of  Tiemlan,  as  the  river  Ma- 
faffran,  at  near  200  miles  diftance,  bounds  it  to  the 
caft.  This  province  is  almgft  equally  diftribuied  intp 
mountains  and  valleys. 

At  fome  diftance  from  cape  Hone  is  the  river 
Tafna,  on  the  weftern  banks  of  which,  almoft  conti- 
guous to  the  fea,  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Siga, 
once  a  royal  city  of  the  Numidian  kings. 

The  firft  town  on  the  coaft  of  any  note,  is  the  city 
ofWarran,  commonly  called  Oran  ;  which  is  about  a 
mile  in  circumference,  and  fituated  on  a  declivity 
near  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  on  the  fummii  of  which 
arc  two  cafties.  Within  Icls  than  half  a  furlong  of 
this  mountain,  is  another  caftle  in  a  ficuation  fome- 
yvhat  higher  than  the  two  former ;  but  a  large  vale 
lying  between  them,  their  refpeftive  ridges  are  fo  re- 
markably difunited,  as  to  form  a  convenient  land 
mark  for  mariners.  To  the  fouih  and  fouth-eaft  arc 
two  other  cafties  erefted  upon  the  fame  level  with  tlie 
lower  part  of  the  town,  but  fcparated  from  it  by  a 
deep  winding  valley,  which  may  be  confidered  as  a 
natural  trench  to  the  fouih  fide  of  the  city.  At  every 
opening  of  this  valley  we  fee  fuch  a  confufcd  view  of 
precipices,  plantations  of  orange  trees,  and  rills  of 
yf^cT  trickling  down  from  the  rocks,  as  appears  ex- 
6  trcamly 


Z^o  Dr.  SHAW'S  TRAVELS 

trcamly  delightful ;  for  nature  rarely  difplays  {uch  a 
variciy  of  prufpcfts  and  cool  retreats. 

Three  Jloinan  miles  from  Oran  is  Arzew,  the  an- 
cient Aill-naria.  Among  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city- 
are  fcatccrcd  Icveral  capitals,  bales,  and  Ihafts  of  co- 
lumns j  a  well  wrouolit  Corinthian  capital  of  Parian 
marble  fupporrs  a  Imith's  anvil  j,  and  in  the  cadi's 
houfc  I  accidcnully  difcovereJ  a  beauiiliil  Mofaic 
pavement,  tlijoiigh  the  rents  of  a  ragged  carpet 
ipread  over  it,  'iluTc  is  here  alfo  a  fcpulchral  cham- 
ber i^  ftct  fquare,  built  plain  without  niches  or  any^ 
other  ornament^}  though  on  the  walls  are  fcveral 
Latin  infcriptions  in  Roman  capitals. 

To  the  foutiiward  of  Arzew  is  a  targe  fpacc  of 
ground  full  of  pits,  from  which  the  neighbouring 
pcopk*  .arc  fupphcd  with  fait.  This  commodity,  from 
the  faclTay  of  digging  ;t,  and  the  fliortnefc  of  carriage 
to  tilt:  ;u'i.K-cr,:  port,  would,  under  aiiy;Othergovern- 
mi-Tir,  bt  ail.  i:iv.diiable  bianch  oif  irade,  the  pits 
being  incxhauiiililc. 

.  Theic  fait  pits  tako.up  an  area  of  iiboi't  fix  miles  in 
'corripafs,  turroundcd  with  mounuius.  In  winter .thi§ 
fpacs  ap;je;'-rs  like  a  lake  i  but  in  funimcr  the  water 
is  .e;:!ial-d  by  the  )ieat  of  tlic  fun,  and  tlie  fait  left  be- 
liiiid  crvi^alizL-d. 

To  the  tailw-u-d  is  the  city  of  Sherihell.  This 
towr)  is  fiiuated  aniiJit  the  ruins  of  a  city  that  was  not 
much  infci  i:)r  to  Carthage  in  extent.  Thefe  ruins  are 
a  proof  of  its  fumicr  nugnificencc:  for  they  abound 
with  fine  capitals^  columns,  capacious  cillerns,  and 
beautiiiil  MoOic  p.:vciiicnts.  The  water  of  the  river 
Hjfhem,  as  ic  :i>  now  called,  was  conveyed  thither 
ih'ciiuifh  a  Lrr^c  and  noble  aqueduct.  Utile  inti;rior  to 
that  of  Cartilage,  in  the  loftinLfs  and  ftreiigth  of  its 
arclics.  TIii;re  are  likewife  two  other  conduits, 
brDU^,i:t  r.uii  the  mountains  to  tlic'fouth  and  fuuth- 
wcil:  duil- liill  iubii:!,  and  as  iht;y  furmlh  SheriliLll 
with  excellent  water,  while  that  of  the  wells  is  brack- 
jlii,  ii;:y  may  jullly  be  coniidered  as  two  ineftimable 
legacies 


7    though  BARB  ART.    "  451 

^gacies  teft  to  Hiis  place  by  the  ancients,     TKJs  place, 
from  many  circLiiiiftances,  evidently  appears  to  have 
bficn  the  Julia  Cazfaria  ot  the  Romans,  which  was  thftl 
fee  of  a  bitliop.  ^J 

The  country  about  the  city  is  cxtrcamly  fcrtife^S 
and  exceedingly  well  watered  by  feveral  brooks  :  o^  j 
the  bank  ot'one  of  them  is  an  old  ruined  town  unde^'i 
a  high  rocky  precipice  -,  and  at  fome  dillance  neaf  1 
thcfe  fountains  the  Algerines  have  a  fortrcfs,  in  whicwJ 
i&  a  garrifon  of  Moors  and  Arabs,  to  prevent  ch»l 
incurlions  of  the  Beni  Menafler.  Certainly  nothing  J 
can  be  more  entertaining  than  the  variety  of  profpe^  J 
every  where  to  be  met  with  in  this  delightful  Lounu^  f 

Hjvlng  pafl'cd  the  river  Gurnioat,  which  is  forme  ' 
by  feveral  nils  of  water  that  fall  from  the  mount^ 
Shcnooah,  we  difcover  a  number  of  ftone  coffins  of  a 
obiong  Bgure ;  and  a  Jiitlc  fartKiT  to  the  cafl,  under.n 
filinggroond,  arcthe  ruins  of  'f^fefiad,  or  Tfciradjexcl 
teniimg  two  miles  along  the  Tea  Ihurc.  Both  a^  ibifA 
place,  and  at  Sherflit-li,  we  !te  many  arches  and  wal^  J 
of  brick,  of  a  kind  not  commonly  fcninJ  in  other  partj  J 
of  Barbary,  where  we  may  fuppufe  die  work  to  be  j 
Roman.  The  bricks  are  of  a  line  palie  and  coloui^J 
only  cwo  inches  and  a  half  thick,  but  near  a  ibo^i 
fquare.  ■     '     ll 

TetcHad  is  fituatcd  13  miles  from  Sherlhcll,  aa^J 
appears  to  have  been  the  ancient  1  apfa,  which  w^l 
«he-fcc  of  a  bifliop.  Thq  coail  all  along  froai  ihU  J 
p.lace  to  Algiers,  in  fomepartsfor  the  brt.idEli  of  tw^ 
or  three  leagues  together,  is  either  wooiiy  or  mou%  | 
cainous,  by  which  the  fine  plains  of  tlie  Mittijiah  I 
behind  it,  arc  Jlielterod  from  the  noiihcrly  blaits  rf  j 
wind  from  the  lea,  ,  [     r  ''    [ 

The  Kubber  Homeah,  or  Roman  Sepulchre,,  or  as  i 
it  may  likewifc  be  rendered.  The  Sepulchre  of  the  i 
Chriftian  Woman,  is  fituatcd  on  die  mountainou*  J 
part  of  ihc  fca  coalt,  feven  miles  from  Ictcffad,  an^  J 
T^act  edifice  -,  it  confiits  of  a  very.higb 
h  is  fornicd  a  kind  of  pyramid  ofUvps. 
Thi* 


ijr  Dr-   SHAWs  travels 

This  ftruiflure,  which  is  built  of  the  fined  free  ftonf; 
I  computed  to  be  too  feet  in  height,  and  the  diameter 
ot'  the  bale  90.  The  opinion  that  this  ftrufture  waj 
credcd  over  a  large  treafure,  has  caufrd  fcveral  parts 
of  it  CO  be  broken  down  j  however,  it  is  ftill  of  a  fuf- 
ficient  height  to  be  a  convenient  land  mark  fiar  ma- 
riners. This  appears  to  be  the  monument  built  by 
Mela  for  the  royal  family  of  the  Numidian  kings. 

We  fhall  now  examine  the  fouthern  pans  of  thii 
province,  and  fhall  begin  with  the  city  (rf  Trcmefen, 
or  according  to  the  pronunciation  of  the  Moors  and 
Ar«b.s  Tlemfan,  or  Telemfan.  It  is  fituated  upon 
a  rifine  ground  below  a  range  of  rocky  precipices, 
upon  the  firft  ridge  of  which  is  a  long  narrow  piece 
of  level  ground,  watered  by  many  fprings,  which 
uniting  their  ftrcatn'i,faU  ina  variety  (rf'cafcades  in  their 
apprt>ach  to  Tlemfan  ;  the  wcftermoft  of  thefc  rivulets 
turning  a  variety  of  mills.  In  the  city  is  z  large 
refcrtroir  of  water,  conduftcd  thither  by  a  fubterra- 
tieous  channel,  and  from  thence  the  ufual  demands  of 
the  city  are  fupplicd. 

The  ancient  Tlemfan  was  about  four  miles  round ; 
but  at  prefcnt  there  is  not  above  one  fixth  part  erf'  it 
remaining.  Among  thefe  ruins  we  meet  with  feveral 
Ihafts  of  pillars,  and  other  fragments  of  Roman  anti- 
quities :  and  in  the  walls  of  an  old  mofque,  I  faw  a 
number  of  altars  dedicated  to  the  Dii  Manes. 

Near  the  river  Sinan  I  was  Ihewn  the  place  where 
BarbarofTa  ftrewed  about  his  treafure ;  his  laiV,  but 
fruitlefs  effort  to  retard  the  purfuit  of  his  enemies. 

Between  the  ShellifFand  the  fea,  are  the  baths  of 
Merccga,  the  Aqus  Caltda:  Coloniaof  the  ancients. 
The  Urged  and  moft  frequented  of  thefe  baths  is  a 
hafon  twelve  feet  fquare,  and  four  feet  deep.  Here 
the  water  bnbWes  up  with  a  degree  of  heat  juft  fup- 
portable,  and  hence  paflt-s  off  to  another  fmaller 
ciftern  ufcd  by  the  Jews,  who  are  not  allowed  to 
bathe  in  company  with  the  Mahometans.  Both  thefe 
baths  were  tbrmcrly  cavcrcd  with  a  handfome  build- 


I 


through  BARBARY.  253 

ing  ;  but  they  are  now  cxpofcd  to  the  weather,  and 
■when  I  faw  them,  were  half  full  of  ftoncs  and  rubbiflu 
A  great  concoinfe  of  people  ai-e  ufually  here  in  ths  j 
fpnng,  the  fealbn  of  ihefe  waters,  which  are  I'uppofed  J 
to  remove  rheumatic  pains,  to  cure  the  jaundice,  and  J 
to  alleviate  moft  other  inveterate  ill  habits.  Higher  1 
up  the  hill  is  another  bath,  the  water  of  which  being  I 
of  too  intenfe  a  lieac  for  bathing,  is  conveyed  through  | 
a  long  pipe  into  another  room,  where  it  is  made  ufc  ] 
of  in  an  operation  of  the  fame  nature  and  elfe^  as  our  ] 
pumping.  .  I 

Between  this  and  the  lower  baihs,  are  the  ruins  of  I 
a,  Roman  town,  equal  in  fize  to  that  of  El  Herba<»i  j 
and  at  a  little  diftance  from  them,  are  feveral  tomb*  I 
and  coffins  of  ftone,  fome  of  which,  1  was  informed*  \ 
were  of  an  unufual  bignefs.     The  late  lieutenant  of  | 
this  province  affured  me,  that  he  law  a  thigh  bone  ' 
belonging  to  them,  near  36  inches  in  length  :  but  on 
my  being  at  thefe  baths  half  a  year  after,  1  could  not 
receive  the  lead  information  about  it;  and  the  graves 
and  coffins  that  fell  under  my  oblervation,  were  only 
of  the  ufual  dimenfion^.     However,    the  people  of 
this  and  other  countries  are  full  of  ftories  and  tradiiioas 
of  this  nature  J  which,  provided  ihefc  Ihoiild  not  be 
human  bones,  which  may  really  be  the  cafe,  as  the 
Africans  are  far  from  being  nice  and  (kilful  oblervtrs, 
we  may  polTibly  account  for,  from  a  cuClom  I  haw^ 
fomcwherc  read  of  among  the  Goths  and  VandaU,  1 
that  might  pafs  over  with  them  into  Africa,  of  intefr  I 
ring  the  hod'e  with  his  rider,  and  the  armour  of  ihf  1 
latter  in  the  fame  grave  -,  and  this  alTcnion  is  coiv  1 
6rmcd  by  the  long  fwords  with  handles  Ihaped  liktl 
crOifes,  often  dug  up  in  tiiis  coumr\'. 

Thefe  baths  are  I'urrounded  by  a  fwccefTion  of  veur  | 
rugged  hills  and  deep  valleyi,  eiwh  of  them  in  their 
turn  very  difficult  and  dangerous  to  pafs  over.  But 
this  fatigue  and  danger  is  fufficiemly  rccompenfcd  by 
our  being  afterward  conduced  through  the  ri(.ii  ami 
delightful  plains  of  Mctcijiah,  lying  bcymd  tlictn  ip 

tlw 


•■i$-4.  Dr.   SHAW'S  TRAVELS 

the  northward,  which  are  e,o  miles  long  and  20  broat^ 
■every  where  well  watered  by  a  number  of  fprings  and 
rivu]e[s.  Here  are  many  country^ieats  of  the  prin- 
cipal inhabitants  of  Algiers,  and  the  farms  which 
fuppiy  that  city  with  the  ■  greateft  part  of  its  provi- 
fions. 

The  fomhern  province  of  Algiers,  or  the  province 
of  Tittcrie,  which  is  bounded  to  the  eaftward  by  the 
river  Boobcrak,  is  greatly  inferior  to  the  weftern  in 
extent,  it  being  fcarce  £0  miles  dtber  in  length  or 
breadth,  ihc  leaTcoaft,  to  the  breadth  of  five  or  fijc 
leagues,  is  chiefly  made  np  of  rich  champain  ground  1 
behind  which  is  a  range  ot  rugged  mountains  that  run 
almoft  in  a  direft  line  through  a  great  part  of  the  pro- 
vince; bu:  beyond  them  arc  cxtenfive  plains,  though 
none  of  them  are  equal  to  thofe  of  Mectijiah. 

In  this  province  is  Algiers  the  Warlike,  as  it  fe 
terme-J-by  the  Turks,  the  capital  of  the  whole  king- 
dom of  the  fame  name.  This  place,  which  has  for 
fcveral  ages  br^ived  the  refentment  of  the  greateft 
powers  of  Chriftendom,  is  not  abo\'e  a  mile  and  a 
hilf  in  circumference,  though  it  is  faid  to  contain 
100,000  Mahometans,  of  whom  not  above  30  atfe 
renegadoes,  1/^,000  Jews,  and  about  2000  Chriftian 
naves.  It  isfituatedon  the  declivity  of  a  hill  facing 
thenorth-and  north-caft;  the  houfes  fifing fo  gradually 
abovec:!chotlHT,ihatthereisfcarcelyonein  thewhole 
■city  that  ha?  not  a  view  of  the  fea.  The  walls  are 
however  weak,  and  incapable  of  defence,  except 
where  ihry  arc  firengthened  by  additional  fortifica- 
tions. The  citadel,  which  is  built  upon  the  higheft 
jpart  of  the  riry,  at  the  weftern  angle,  is  of  an  ofto- 
gonal  ficiure,  am!  each  of  the  fides  in  view  has  porfc- 
"fiolcs  or  cmbraiures.  The  ditch,  which  formerly-fur- 
roundrd  the  city,  is  almoft  entirely  filled  up,  and  is 
ot  liifle  conliqtK'.ice.  Such  is  thfc  fituation-and 
Urcngtli  of  Aliiicrs  on  the  land  fide;  but  toward  iht 
Jca  ir  is  bc:ti.r  f  Tiified,  and  capable  of  a  more"  obfti- 


ItHniu'gh  BARB  ART.    ' 

f  defence:  for  rhe  embrafiires  here  have  all- brafs 
guns  in  good  order, 
r  The  port  is  of  an  oblong  figure,  130  fathoms  long, 
and  So  broad.  Its  eailern  mound,  which  was  for- 
merly an  iQand,  is  well  lecured  by  feveral  fortifica- 
tions. The  round  caflie  built  by  the  Spaniards  wliilc 
they  were  maOers  of  the  illand,  and  the  two  remote 
batteries  eretflcd  within  this  century,  are  faid  to  be 
bombproof.  However,  as  none  of  the  fortifications 
are  alTilled  with  either  mines  or  outwork*,  and  as  the- 
foldiers  who  are  to  guard  and  defend  them,  cannot 
be  kept  up  to  any  regular  courfc  of  dury  and  atten- 
dance, a  ftw  refolute  battalions  proteftod  by  3  fm;ill 
fquadron  of  fhips,  might  foon  make  ihemlelves  mai- 
lers of  the  ftrongeft  of  them. 

The  naval  power  of  the  Algerines  has  been  for 
fome  years  in  a  declining  condition  :  except  their  Yow- 
boats  and  brigantincs,  they  had  in  1751  only  half  it 
dozen  Ihips  trom  36  to  50  gims,  arid  not  half  that 
number  of  brave  and  experienced  captains  :  they  are, 
however,  rtill  able  to  interrupt  the  trade  of  Kurope". 

There  is  little  within  the  city  that  merits  the  atten- 
tion of  the  curious.  Upon  the  tower  of  the  great 
rnofque  arc  fomc  impertidt  infcriptions-,  but  fhe  let- 
ters, though  of  a  lufficient  bignefs  to  be  fecn  at  a 
diltancc,  arc  lb  filled  up  with  lime  and  whi:e-v/afh, 
that  I  could  not  particularly  diltinguilh  them. 

The  hills  and  valleys  round  the  city,  are  every 
where  beautified  with  gardens  and  country-JeSts, 
whither  ihe  wealthy  p.iri  of  the  inhabitants  retire 
during  the  fummer.  Thtfe  are  little  white  hottfcs 
ihadcd  by  a  variety  of  fniil-trees  and  ever-greens : 
the  gardens  are  well  ftockcd  with  pot  herbs,  melonst 
and  other  fruit-,  and  what  is  moil  admired  in  iHefe 
hot  climates,  each  or  them,  as  well  as  the  tit)-,  eiijoyi 
a  great  command  of  cxcell'jnt  water,  from  the  m.iny 
rivulets  and  fountains  thiiievxry  where  prelent  tiicni- 
'jlvcs.  From  ihefc  fources  the  fprihg  w«er  tifed  at 
Ali-iers 


1^6 


Dr.   SHAW'9  travels 


Algiers  is  brought  through  a  long  courfe  of  pipe* 
and  conduits. 

Jiirjura,  the  higheft  mountiin  in  Barbaryi  extends 
at  leaft  eight  leagues  from  the  north-eaft  to  the  tbmh- 
wefl ;  and  from  one  end  to  the  other,  appears  a  con- 
tinued range  of  naked  rocks  and  precipices,  fecuring 
by  its  rugged  fituation,  a  number  of  Kabyles  from 
becoming  tributary  to  the  Algerines.  Jn  the  midit 
of  winter  the  ridgc  of  this  mountain  is  covered  with 
Ihow ',  and  it  is  remarkable  that  the  inhabitants  of  one 
fide  maintain  an  hereditary  and  implacable  enmity 
againft  ihofe  of  the  other  j  while  by  common  confent, 
3  little  Ihow  puts  a  ftop  to  their  hoftilities  during  that 
feafon. 

I  now  come  to  the  eaftern  province  of  Algiers, 
diftinguifhed  by  the  name  of  the  province  of  Con- 
ftantina,  which  is  nearly  equal  in  extent  to  the  other 
two»  it  being  230  miles  in  length,  and  about  too  in 
breadih.  The  tribute  collefted  here  by  the  viceroy  i^ 
even  much  greater  than  that  of  the  other  two  j  for 
the  bey  of  the  fouthern  province  pays  annually  into 
the  treafury  of  Algiers  only  about  12,000  dollars  *, 
and  the  bey  of  the  weflern  province  40  or  50,000 ; 
while  the  viceroy  of  Conftantina  never  delivers  in  lefi 
than  80,  and  fometimes  100,000. 

The  (ea-coaft  of  this  province  is  rocky  altnoft 
through  its  whole  extent.  The  river  Boobcrack  is  it* 
weftern  boundary ;  and  at  a  league's  diftance  upon 
the  fca-coaft,  the  town  of  Dellys  is  built  at  the  foot 
of  a  high  mountain,  out  of  the  ruins  of  a  lai^  city, 
probably  the  Rufucurium  of  the  ancients.  Here  a 
great  part  of  the  old  wall,  with  other  ruins  near  the 
fummit  of  the  mountain,  promife  at  a  dillance  foms 
extraordinary  antiquities  -,  and  in  a  wall  juH  over  the 
harbour  is  a  fmall  niche  with  an  image  placed  in  it. 


\ 


*  Thr  dollars  of  Atgten  and  Tunii  urujtlly  p&fs  for  39 
}  I.  6  d.  vkIlk. 


^i. 


througli   BARBARA.  257 

iQ  tlie  attitude  of  a  Madona;  but  the  features  and 
drapery  are  defaced. 

Fafling  by  fonic  villages  of  little  confequence, 
came  to  tlie  port  of  Boujeiah,  called  by  Scrabo  t 
Port  of  Sarda. 
.  The  town  of  Boujeiah,  or  Bugia,  as  it  is  tailed  b7 
the  Europeans,  is  built  upon  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
ciiy,  in  the  fame  manner,  and  in  a  like  ficiiation  witbti 
Dellys,  though  of  thrice  the  circuit.     A  great  part■^J 
of  the  old  wall  is   fiili  remaining,  and  carried  up  tO' 
the  top  of  the  mountain,     Befide  a  caftic,  which  com- 
mands the  city,  there  are  two  others  at  the  bottom 
of  the  mountain  for  the  fccuricy  of  the  port;    and. 
ijpon  the  walls  of  one  of  them  arc  ftill  remaining  the^ 
marks  of  the  cannon-ball,    fired  againft  it  by  Sirq 
William  Spragg,  in  his  memorable  expedition  againft' 
this  place. 

PafTing  through  fome  inconfiderable  villages,  and 
fcvcral  rivers,  we  came  to  the  Scbba  Rous,  or  the 
Seven  Capes,  which  arc  a  clurtcr  of  fo  many  high 
nigged  and  barren  promontories.     Among  the  eafter- 
moft  of  thcle  capes,  the  Zhoorc,  a  confiderable  river, 
dlfcharges  itfcif  into  the  fea.     The  Welled  I>. 
and  the  Beni  Friganjh,  two  of  the  principal  clans  0 
thefe  capes,  drink  of  this  river,  and  do  not;  like  t' 
other  Kabylcs,   live  in  thatched  hovels  utider  t 
Jhelter  of  fome  fore  ft:  or  mountain!  but  in  caves  e 
the  rocks,  which  they  have  either  dug  thtrmfclves,  0 
found  made  10  their  hands.     Upon  the  approach  c 
any  veflei,  either  iii  the  coorfe  of  failing,  or  by  d' 
trcl's  of  weather,  tliefe   inhofpitable   Kabylcs  imme-^ 
diately  iiTuc  out  of  their  iioles,  and  covering  the  cliffs  I 
of  the  fliore  with  their  multitudes,  utter  a  thoufandi^ 
execrable  wiflies,  tiiat  God  wauld  deliver  it  into  their' 
hands. 

Farther  to  the  fouili  arc  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
Hippo,  called  Hippo  Regius,  from  its  being  one  of 
the  roval  cities  of  the  Numidian  kings. 

VoL  VI.  S  Of 


258  Dr.  SHAWs  TRAVELS 

Of  this  city  St.  Auguftine  was  bifliop,  and  the 
Moors  (hew  a  part  cf  t-ic  ruins  which  they  pretend  to 
have  been  his  convent. 

Among  the  mouniains  of  the  Beni  Abbefs,  is  a 
narrow  winding  defile,  which,  for  near  half  a  mile, 
extends  between  precipices  that  arifc  on  each  fide  to 
a  greac  heighr.  At  every  winding  the  rock  that  ori- 
ginally  went  acrois  it,  and  feparaied  one  valley  from 
another,  is  cut  in  the  form  of  a  door-cafe  fix  or  feven 
feet  wide,  and  thefc  are  called  by  the  Turks  The 
Gaccs  of  iron.  Few  perfons  can  pafe  thetn  without 
liorror  ;  and  here  a  handful  of  men  might  defend  the 
pal's  againft  a  great  army.  Two  leagues  to  the  fouth^  ■ 
fouih-call,  is  another  dangerous  pafs,  called  the  Acaba, 
or  the  Afi-cnt.  This  is  die  revcrfe  of  the  former ;  fiir 
here  tlie  road  extends  along  a  narrow  ridg^  with 
precipices  and  deep  vallies  on  each  fide,  and  theleaft 
deviation  from  the  beaten  path,  expofes  the  paflienger 
to  the  danger  of  being  dalhed  to  piecei  by  ^luig 
to  the  bottom.  The  common  road  from  Algiers  to 
the  eaflward,  lies  through  the  above  pafs,  and  OTCt 
tins  ridge. 

Cirta,  or  Conftantina,  as  ir  was  afterward  called, 
is  fitiiatcd  48  miles  from  the  fea,  and  was  one  of  the 
rliitf,  as  well  f,s  ons  of  the  rtrongeft  cities  of  Numi- 
di;i.  Ihc  greatclt  part  of  it  has  been  built  upon  a 
kind  of  pcninliilar  proniontory,  inacccfliblc  on  all 
fidts,  except  toward  die  fouth-weft.  This  I  computed 
to  be  above  a  mile  in  circuit,  ending  to  the  nordi- 
w.ird  ill  a  perptmiicular  precipice,  at  ieaft  100  &- 
ihcms  dcc]>. 

Bcfide  tiie  general  traces  of  a  diverfity  of  ruins 
fca'.ined  all  over  this  place,  there  are  Hill  retnaining 
iKiT  the  centre  cf  the  city,  a  let  of  cifterns^  which 
received  the  water  brought  tnithcr  byanaquedtid: 
til. \' are  about  20  in  number,  fwniing  an  area  50 
yiv.ds  iquarej  but  though  the  aquedud  is  in  a  more 
luiniius  coniliiio:i  ti'-iii  the  citterns,  its  ruins  fufli- 
1  ciently 


tliroush   B  A  R  B  A  R  Y. 


259 


cicntty  demonftrate  the  public  fpirit  of  the  Cirtefians, 
in  crcCling  a  ftruftiire  [hac  required  fuch  an  immcnrc 
quantity  of  materials. 

Below  the  bridge,  the  river  Rummel  begins  to  turn 
to  the  northward,  and  continues  that  coiirlc  throogh 
a  ilibterranean  palTage  in  the  rocks,  which  is  in  le- 
vcral  places  defigncdly  laid  open,  probably  fur  the 
convenience  of  drawing  up  the  water.  This  fcems  to 
have  been  an  extraordinary  provifion  of  nature  for  the 
admi0ion  of  this  river,  which  mufl:  have  othcrwifc 
formed  a  prodigious  lakcj  and  have  laid  great  pare  of 
the  neighbouring  country  under  water,  before  ic 
found  a  paflagc  to  the  fea.  This  river  falls  from 
its  fubtcrranean  cavity  in  a  large  cataraft,  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  to  the  eaftward  of  a  place  called  Seedy 
Mccmon. 

Among  the  ruins  to  the  fouth-weft  of  the  bridge, 
on  the  narrow  (lip  of  land  already  mentioned,  is  the 
greateft  part  of  a  triumphal  arch,  called  The  CaIHe 
of  the  Giant.  At  Ibme  leagues  diftarce  to  the  eaft 
of  Condantina,  are  ihe  Silent  or  Inchanted  Baths, 
fituated  on  a  low  ground,  furroundcd  with  mountains. 
There  arc  here  feveral  fprings  of  an  inienfe  hear,  and 
at  a  fmall  diftance,  there  are  others  that  arc  compa- 
ratively extreamly  cold-,  near  which  are  the  ruins  of 
a  few  houfes,  built,  perhaps,  for  the  convenience  of 
thofe  who  came  here  for  the  benefit  of  the  waters.  Iz 
is  remarkable,  that  befide  the  ftronj;  fuiphureous 
fteams,  the  heat  of  t!i;  above  fprings  is,  lb  great,  as  to 
boil  a  large  piece  of  mutton  very  tender  in  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  and  that  the  rocky  ground  over  which 
the  water  runs,  is,  for  the  (pace  of  ico  fecr,  in  j. 
manner  dilTolved,  or  rath::r  calcined* by  it.  Thelc 
rocks  being  originally  fofc  and  uniform,  th?  water,  by 
making  every  way  equal  imprrfTions,  leaves  them  in 
the  Ihape  of  cones  and  hcmifpher;;?,  which  being  fix 
feet  high,  andni-arly  of  the  fame  diameter,  the  Ar.ibs 
believe  to  be  the  tents  of  their  prcdecefTors  .rtirned 
into  ftone.  But  where  thcfe  rocks,  bedde  their  ufual 
S  2  chalky 


260  Dr.   SHAWs  TRAVELS 

chalky  fubHance,  alfo  conuin  fome  layers  of  a  harder 
matter,  not  lo  eafily  diflblvcd,  you  are  entertained 
with  a  confufion  of  traces  and  channels,  diftingu'ilhed 
by  the  Arabs  into  camels,  horfes,  and  Ihecp,  with 
men,  women,  and  children,  whom  they  fuppofe  to 
have  undergone  the  like  fate  with  their  habitations. 

On  riding  over  this  place  it  gives  back  fuch  a  hol- 
low found,  that  we  were  every  moment  apprehenfive 
of  finking  through  it.  It  is  therefore  probable,  that 
the  ground  below  us  was  hollow ;  and  may  not  then 
'  the  air  pent  up  in  thefe  caverns,  afford  that  mixture 
of  Ihrili,  murmuring,  and  deep  founds,  which,  accord- 
ing to  the  dircftion  of  the  winds,  and  the  morion  of 
the  internal  air,  ilTue  out  along  with  the  water, 
Thefe  founds  the  Arabs  affirm,  to  be  the  mufic  of 
the  jenoune,  or  fairies,  who  arc  fuppofed  in  a  parti- 
cular manner  to  make  their  abodes  at  this  place,  and 
to  be  the  grand  agents  in  all  thefe  remarkable  appear- 
'  ances. 

There  are  likcwife  other  natural  curiofities  at  this 
place  :  for  the  chalky  flone  diflblving  into  a  fine  im- 
palpable powder,  and  being  carried  along  with  the 
itreani,  lodges  iifelf  on  the  fides  of  the  channel,  and 
Ibmetimes  on  the  lips  of  the  fountains  themfelves ;  or 
elfe  embracing  twigs,  ftraws,  and  other  bodies  in  its 
way,  immcdiiitely  liardens  and  Ihoots  into  a  bright 
fibrous  Ibbftancc  like  the  albeftos,  forming  itfelt  ac 
die  fame  time  into  a  variety  of  glittering  figures,  and 
beautiful  cryftiilizations. 

The  mountains  of  Aurefs,  to  the  fouthward  of  Con-  ' 
flantina,  are  a  knot  of  eminences  running  into  one 
another,  wiih  feveral  little  plains  and  valleys  between 
ihem.  Both  liic  higher  and  the  lower  parts  are  gc- 
nerr.Uy  cxircamly  fertile,  and  are  efteemcd  the  garden 
of  the  kingdom.  They  are  about  130.  miles  m  cir- 
cuit, and  ail  over  tiiem  are  fnrcad  a  number  of  ruins. 
It  is  rcmar!;r,ble,  that  the  inh;ibitants  of  the  mountains 
of  Aurcfi  have  a  quite  diifcvcnt  mii'n  and  complexion 
from  t!.L;ir  neighbours  :  Ibr  they  arc  fo  far  from  being 
fwardiy. 


through  BARBARY.  261 

fwarthy,  that  they  are  fiir  and  ruddy ;  and  their  hair, 
which,  among  the  other  Kabyles,  is  of  a  daric  cotouFa 
is  with  them  of  a  deep  yellow,  Thefc  circumftaaces, 
notwithftanding  their  being  Mahometans,  and  their 
fpcaking  only  the  common  language  of  the  Kabyles^ 
render  it  probable  that  they  may  be  a  remnant  of  the 
Vandals. 

Leaving  Conftantina  to  the  north,  we  enter  into 
the  moft  extenfive  and  fertile  diftrift  in  alt  Numidia, 
peopled  by  a  pjowerful  and  warlike  tribe  called  Han- 
ncilhah,  who  have  often  been  of  fignal  fcrvice  to  the 
Algerines  in  their  wars  with  Tunis.  This  whole 
country  is  finely  watered,  and  was  once  interfperfed 
with  cities  and  villages,  of  which  the  only  vefliges 
are  heaps  of  ruins. 

The  government  of  the  Algerines,  which  differs 
little  from  that  of  Tunis,  confifts  of  the  dey,  and  a 
common  council,  compofrd  of  30  yiah  bafhees, 
though  the  mufcy,  the  cady,  and  fometimes  the 
whole  foldiery  are  called  in  to  iStiH.  All  aSkirs  of 
moment  are  fometimes  agreed  upon  by  this  aflembly, 
before  they  pafs  into  laws,  and  the  dey  is  entrufted 
with  the  execution  of  them.  But  lately  little  account 
has  been  made  of  this  body,  which  is  only  convened 
to  confcnt  to  what  has  been  before  concerted  between 
the  dey  and  his  favourites. 

The  dey  is  chofen  out  of  the  army  -,  the  tnoft  infe- 
rior order  having  an  equal  right  to  that  dignity  whh 
the  higheft.  And  every  bold  and  afpiring  foldier, 
thoiigh  taken  ycfterday  from  the  plough,  may  be 
confidered  as  heir  apparent  to  the  throne.  They  arc 
not  athamed  to  own  the  meannels  of  :heir  extraction. 
Mahomet  bafla,  who  was  dey  when  I  was  at  Algiers, 
in  a  difpute  he  had  once  with  a  deputy- conful  of  a 
neighbouring  nation,  freely  mentioned  the  mtanncfj 
of  his  birth:  *'  My  mother,  faid  he,  fold  fheepN 
feet,  and  my  father  neats  tongues;  but  they  wo'jld 
have  been  afhamcd  to  have  expofcd  to  falc  (<}  worth- 
lefi  a  tongue  as  thine.'-  He  who  afpircs  to  thit.  hi^rli 
S  3  tiiiik 


a6i  Dr.   SHAW's  TRAVELS 

rank  does  not  wait  tiU  ficknefs  or  age  has  reiroved 
the  prefcnt  poffenbr,  it  is  enough  if  he  be  able  to 
proicA  himftif  with  the  fame  fcymitar  which  he  boldly 
flit-aths  in  the  bowels  of  his  predcceflbrj  for  Icarcely 
one  in  ten  of  them  dies  in  his  bed.  However,  this 
faftious  humour  Teems,  at  prefent,  to  be  fomewhat 
purged  and  allayed  by  the  many  fcafonablc  execu- 
tions that  have  been  lately  made  of  thefe  ajpiring 
members. 

The  whole  force  of  Algiers,  in  Turks  and  Colog- 
lies,  is  at  prefcnt  computed  at  about  6500 1  aooo  of 
whom  are  fiippofcd  to  be  old  and  excufcd  from  duty  ; 
and  of  the  re.naining  4500,  looo  are  conftantly  em- 
ployed in  their  garrilons,  while  the  reft  are  either  to 
arm  out  their  cruizers,  or  form  the  three  flying  camps 
lent  out  every  fummer  under  the  provincial  vicetoys. 
To  thefe  Turkifh  troops  we  may  join  about  2000 
Moorifh  horfc  and  foot,  kept  in  conftant  pay ;  but 
being  all  hereditary  enemies  to  the  Turks,  are  con- 
fidered  as  adding  but  litrlc  to  the  llrength  of  the  go- 
vernment. This  extenllve  kingdom  is  indeed  kept 
ill  obedience,  not  fo  much  by  force  of  arms,  as  by 
carefully  oblcrving  the  old  political  maxim,  "  Divide 
and  command;"  for  there  being  continual  jealoufiei 
and  difputes  between  the  Arabian  tribes,  the  provin- 
cial viceroys  have  nothing  to  do  but  to  keep  up  the 
ferment,  and  at  proper  times  throw  in  new  matter 
for  difcord.  Thus,  by  playing  one  tribe  againft 
another,  ihey  are  able  to  maintain  their  ground  ^aioft 
a;!  oppofition. 

Thov-gh  the  Algerines  acknowlege  themfelvcs  the 
grand  (ignior's  vaifals  they  pay  him  no  manner  of 
(jbedience. 

In  the  diftribution  of  jufticc,  the  cady  is  judge, 
lie  is  generaiiy  educated  in  the  feminaries  of  Ctm- 
ftantinople,  or  Grand  Cairo,  where  it  is  faid  the 
Koman  codes  and  pandeifts,  tranfiaced  into  the  Arabic 
tongue,  are  taught  and  explained.  He  is  obliged  to 
attend  once  or  twice  a  day  at  the  court  of  juftice, 

where 


througfi   BARBARY. 

lere  he  determines  the  fuits  that  are  brought  before 
n:  but  as  he  is  generally  fuppofed  guilty  of  bribery, 
all  affairs  of  moment  are  laid  before  the  dey,  or  in  his 
abfence,  before  the  treafurer,  matter  of  the  horfc,  and 
other  principal  officers  of  the  regency,  who  conftantly 
fit  in  the  gate  of  the  palace  tor  that  piirpofc.  At 
ihefe  tribunals  the  caufe  is  foon  deteroiined,  after 
which  the  fenteacc  is  executed  within  lefs  than  half 
an  hour.  Small  offences  are  punifhed  with  the  bafti- 
nado.  For  clipping  or  dcbafing  the  public  coin,  the 
old  Egyptian  punilhmentisinfliifled,  which  is  cutting 
off  the  hands.  If  a  Jew  or  Chriftian  fubjeft  is  guilty 
of  murder,  or  any  other  capital  crirne,  he  is  burnt 
alive  without  the  gates  of  [he  city  :  but  for  the  fame 
crime  the  Moors  and  Arabs  are  eitlier  impaled,  hung 
\\p  by  die  neck  over  the  battlements  of  ihe  city,  or 
thrown  upon  hooks  fixed  in  the  walls  beiow;  where 
they  fomciimes  hang  in  the  moil  dreadful  agonies  30 
or  40  hours  togcrhcr,  before  chey  expire.  The  Turks, 
out  of  refpeft  to  their  charadlers,  are  fent  to  the  agi's 
houfe,  where,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  oftiiice, 
they  arc  balHnadoed  or  lb-angled.  When  the  women 
offend,  they  arc  not  expofcd  to  the  populace  ;  but  fent 
to  a  private  houfe  of  correction  ;  or  if  the  crime  be 
capital,  thty  arc  tied  up  in  a  fack,  carried  out  to 
fea,  and  drowned.  The  wcftern  Moors  Hill  ufe  the 
barbarous  punifhment  of  fawing  the  offender  afunder : 
for  which  purpofe  they  prepare  two  boards,  of  the 
fame  length  and  breadth  with  ihe  unfortunate  perfon, 
and  having  tied  him  betwixt  them,  they  proceed  to 
the  execution  by  beginning  a:  the  head.  It  is  faid 
thatKardinalb,  apenbn  who  was  formerly  ambalTador 
at  the  court  of  Great  Britain,  lately  fuficred  in  this 
manner:  for  with  rcfpeft  to  the  punilhment  of  ihefc 
countries,  little  or  no  regard  ii  paid  to  the  rank  of 
the  offender. 

As  to  the  form  of  government  among  the  Arab 
'.tribes,  it  is  to  be  obfcrved,  that  thougli  they  have 
^^  1  for  many  ages  under  the  Turkilh  yo.^e,  yet  they 
S  4  ar^ 


264  Dr.  SHAW'S  TRAVELS 

are  feldom  interrupted  in  the  enjoyment  of  their  laws 
for  if  they  live  peaceably^  pay  regularly  the  eighth 
part  of  the  produce  of  their  lands  with  a  fmalt  poll- 
tax,  annually  demanded  by  the  Turlcs,  they  are  left 
in  the  full  poflefTion  of  all  their  private  privileges  and 
cudoms.  Every  camp  may  be  confidered  as  a  littliS 
principality,  over  which  it  is  ufual  for  the  family  of 
the  greateft  reputation  and  fubllance  to  prefide.  This 
honour  docs  not,  however,  always  defcend  from  fe- 
ther  to  fon ;  but,  as  among  their  predeceflbrs  the 
Numidians,  when  the  heir  is  too  young,  or  fubjeft  to 
any  infirmity,  they  make  choice  of  the  uncle,  or  fomc 
other  relation,  diflinguifhed  by  his  wifdom  and  pru- 
dence. Yet  notwithftanding  the  defpotic  power  lodg- 
ed in  this  perfon,  all  grievances  and  difputes  are  ac- 
commodated in  as  amicable  a  manner  as  pofTible,  by 
calling  to  his  afTiftance  one  or  two  perlbns  out  of  each 
tent :  and  the  offender  being  always  confidered  as  a 
brother,  the  fentence  is  given  on  the  favourable  fide ; 
and  even  in  the  mod  enormous  crimes,  banilhment  is 
generally  the  only  punifhment  infln9:ed. 

■  The  kingdom  of  Tunis  is  bounded  to  the  north 
and  eaft  by  the  Mediterranean  fea ;  to  the  weft  by 
Algiers;  and  to  the  fouth  by  Tripoli ;  extendingfrom 
the  ifle  of  Jcrba  in  ic^'-'  30' to  cape  Serra  in  37"  12' 
north  latitude:  it  being  220  miles  in  length,  and  only 
1 70  in  breadth.  Sbekkah,  the  farchclt  city  to  the 
weft,  being  fituated  in  8",  and  Ciybea,  the  farthcft 
to  the  eaft,  in  1 1 "  20'  eaft  longitude  from  London.  ■ 
Tunis  is  not,  like  Algiers,  divided  into  provinces; 
but  is  under  tiie  immcLiiate  inlpetftion  of  the  bey,  who 
goes  in  pcrlbn  to  colled  the  tribute  :  for  which  pur- 
jjofe  he  once  a  year  vifits  the  principal  parts  with  a 
flying  camp  ;  in  the  fuiiimer  fealbn  tiaverfing  the  fer- 
tile country  near  Kcfi"  and  Baijah,  and  the  diftri&s 
between  Cairwr-n  and  the  Jerecde;  and  in  the  winter, 
taking  a  ciicuit  through  the  reft  of  the  country: 
therefore,  under  thefe  uivifions  I  fiiall  defcribe  this- 

kingdom.  ■  ' 

The- 


jlirough  BARBARY. 

The  fummer  circuit  Is  much  better  inhabited,  than 
any  part  of  the  neig!ibouring  kingdoms  of  the  fame 
fize,  it  having  a  greater  number  oi  cities,  towns  and 
villages  ;  andfrom  there  being  fewer  inftances  of  op- 
preGion  in  the  government,  there  is  a  greater  appear- 
ance of  affluence,  profperity  and  chearfuinefs. 

Cape  Negro,  which  is  about  five  leagues  to  the 
norch-caft,  is  remarkable  for  a  fettlement  of  the 
french  African  company,  who  pay  a  confiderable 
film  of  money  to  the  Tunifeens  for  the  fame  privi- 
leges they  enjoy  at  La  Calle,  and  have  a  fmall  forti- 
fication to  proied  them  from  the  attacks  of  the 
neighbouring  Arabs. 

Five  leagues  farther  to  the  north-caft  is  cape  Serra, 
the  mod  northerly  part  of  Africa  ;  and  four  leagues 
beyond  it  are  three  rocky  iflands,  called  The  Bro- 
thers, lying  near  the  continent,  half  way  to  Cape 
Blanco. 

Eight  miles  beyond  this  laft  cape,  at  the  bottom 
of  a  large  gulph,  is  the  city  of  Bizerta,  pleai^ntly 
fituated  on  a  canal  between  an  extenfive  lake  and  the 
fea.  It  is  about  a  mile  round,  and  defended  by  feve- 
ral  caftles  and  batteries.  The  cliannel  between  the 
lake  and  the  fea  was  the  port  of  Hippo,  which  is 
ftill  capable  of  receiving  fmall  veiTels  ;  but  it  was 
formerly  the  fafeft  and  moft  beautiful  haven  on  this 
coaft.  The  gulph  of  Bizerta,  the  Sinus  Hipponenfts 
of  the  antients,  is  a  beautiful  fandy  inlet,  near  four 
leagues  in  diameter.  The  ground  being  low,  the 
eye  is  permitted  to  penetrate  through  delightful  groves 
of  olive-trees,  a  great  way  into  tlie  country,  and 
afterward  the  profpc6l  is  bounded  by  a  high  rocky 
(hore.  Were  the  Turks  to  give  proper  encourage- 
ment to  trade  and  induftry,  Bizerta  niight  be  ren- 
dered a  town  of  great  wealth  ;  for  it  abounds  with 
all  kinds  of  fiOi  and  fruit,  with  corn,  pulfe,  oil,  cot- 
ton, and  a  variety  of  other  produftions. 

Utica  certainly  lay  fomewhere  in  this  direflion  ; 
but  we  fliall  not  be  able  to  fix  its  exatSt  fituation,  un- 
5  lefs 


266  Dr.  SHAW'S  TRAVELS 

kfs  w«  allow  that  the  fca  has  been  driven  back  three 
or  four  miles  by  the  cailcrly  winds,  and  the  incirafc 
of  the  mm!. ;  and  then  wc  may  mllly  place  that  Imall, 
bur  celebrated  city,  at  Booi.:i:er,  wjere  are  many 
traces  of  bt?'ldings  of  great  extent  and  magnificence, 
as  walls,  ciiiern:;,  unH  a  large  aqueduft,  '1  hefc  rains 
lie  about  27  Romcn  niilt-s  from  Canhage,  and  be- 
hind them  we  are  entertained  with  the  view  of  the 
large  fields  which  the  Romans  hivt  rendered  famous 
by  their  military  exploits. 

Indeed  Carthage  his  not  much  better  fupported  it- 
fcir  iigainft  the  encroachments  of  the  north-ealt  winds, 
an:!  the  mud  thrown  out  by  the  Mejerdah,  which  to- 
gether Inth  ftoppL'd  up  the  anticnt  harbour,  and  made 
u  slmoil:  as  far  dirtanc  as  Udca.  The  greateft  partof 
Cartilage  was  buik  upon  three  hills,  inferior  in  ele- 
vation to  thcie  on  which  Rome  was  crefted.  Upon 
a  place  wliich  overlooks  the  fouth-caft  Ihore,  is  the 
area  of  a  fpacious  room,  with  feveral  fmaller  near  it : 
Jbme  of  tlicm  have  teficlatcd  pavements  1  but  neither 
the  defign  nor  the  execution  are  very  extraordinary. 
In  rowing  along  the  Ihore,  the  common  fewers  arc 
Jccn  in  feveral  places,  which  being  at  firft  well-built 
and  cemented,  time  has  not  in  the  leaft  impwred: 
excepting  thcie,  the  cifterns  have  fufFcred  leaft  by  the 
general  ruin  of  the  city.  Thefe  are  the  only  remains 
of  the  grandeur  and  magnificence  of  this  aiuient  city, 
the  rival  of  Rome.  \\  e  find  no  triumphal  arcb,  or 
fuperb  ftru6ture  ;  no  columns  of  porphyry  or  granite, 
no  curious  entablatures :  all  the  broken  w^ls  and 
ftruiStures  ftill  remaining,  being  erected  either  in  the 
Gothic  manner,  or  by  the  later  inhabitants. 

The  ruins  of  the  celebrated  aquedufl:,  that  con- 
veyed the  water  into  the  greater  cifterns,  may  be 
traced  as  fdr  as  Zow-wan  and  Zung-gar,  to  the  dif- 
tance  of  at  leaft  50  miles.  This  was  a  very  expenfive 
work,  and  at  that  part  of  it  which  extends  along 
the  peninfula,  was  beautifully  faced  with  llone.  At 
Arriana,  a  fmall  village  two  leagues  to  the  northward 

of 


through    BARBARY.  267 

of  Tunis,  arc  fevcral  entire  arches,  which  1  found 
10  be  70  feet  high,  and  the  piers  that  fupported 
them  were  16  feet  fquarc  j  the  water  channel  thac 
was  above  ihcle  arches,  was  vaulted  over,  and  plaftcr- 
ed  with  a  ftrong  cement.  A  perfon  of  the  ordinary 
Gze  may  walk  upright  in  it }  and  at  certain  diftances 
are  holes  left  open,  as  well  for  the  admiflion  of  frefli 
air,  as  the  convenience  of  cleanfing  it. 

Tunis,  the  Tunes  of  the  ancients  and  the  capiial 
of  the  kingdom,  is  3  miles  round  •,  but  not  fo  popu- 
lous as  Algiers,  nor  are  the  houfes  fo  handfbme  and 
ipaclous.  It  h  chiefly  fituated  on  a  riling  ground 
along  the  weftern  bank^  of  the  lake,  having  a  full 
view  of  Carthage  and  the  Giiiclta.  The  lakes  and 
niarfhes  wlih  which  the  city  is  furrounded  might 
proliably  render  its  fjiuaiion  lefs  healthy,  was  not  the 
■  moidurc  of  the  air  CQrreded  by  the  great  quantity 
of  maib'c,  myrtle,  rofemary,  and  other  aromatic 
plants,  with  which  their  ovens  and  bagnios  are  daily 
heated,  and  that  frequently  communicate  a  fcnfible 
fragrance  to  the  air.  The  want  of  fweet  water  is  one 
of  the  great  difadvantages  under  which  the  inhabi- 
tants labour  -,  for  the  bratkifhncfs  of  their  well-watc^, 
and  the  fcarcity  of  their  ciftcrns,  oblige  them  to  fetch 
a  great  part  of  what  they  drink  from  forac  places  a 
miledilbnt:  butexccpting  this  inconvenience,  noplace 
enjoys  a  greater  plenty  of  all  the  neccflaries  of  life. 

The  Tiinilecns  have  little  of  that  infolence  and 
haiightinefs  too  common  at  Algiers,  and  Indeed  arc 
the  mnfl:  civilized  nation  of  Barbary.  All  affairs 
with  the  regency  are  iranfaifled  in  fuch  a  friendly 
corrn^iifant  manner,  ihat  I  had  no  fmall  pleafure  in 
attending  the  Englilh  conful  at  his  audiences.  This 
nation  has  always  had  the  charadcr  of  not  imitating 
their  neighbours  in  living  at  open  war,  or  perpetual 
difcord  with  the  Chriftian  princes-,  but  of  cultivat- 
ing their  friendlhip,  and  readily  entering  into  an  al- 
liance with  them  :  they  have  therefore  for  many  years 
been  more  intent  upon  trade,  and  the  improveciicnt 


26S  Dr.  SHAVTs  travels 

of  their  nianiifafiures,  than  upon  plundering  and  fit" 
ting  out  corlairs. 

On  a  rifing  ground  between  the  lake  of  Tunis  and 
tlie  fca,  is  the  town  of  Rhadcs,  the  antient  Ades, 
where  Regnlus  defeated  the  Carthaginians  ;  and  at  a 
fmall  diLtaixe,  are  the  hills  where  Hanno  placed  his 
elephants  to  oppofe  !iim. 

Near  the  bottom  of  the  gulph  is  the  fmall  town  of 
Solyman,  fituated  upon  the  (kins  of  a  fine  plain.  It 
is  remarkable,  that  this  place  is  chiefiy  inhabited  by 
AndaUifian  Moors,  who  retain  the  Spanith  language, 
are  more  civilized  than  their  brcthrcnj  and  more  cour- 
teous to  the  Chriftians. 

Farther  to  the  north-eall  is  the  fanftuary  of  Seedy 
Doudc,  which  takes  its  name  from  David  j  or,  as 
they  pronounce  it,  Doude,  a  Moorifh  faint,  whofe 
fepulchic  is  here  (liewn,  five  yards  long.  But  this 
ftruftiire  nppears  to  be  a  part  of  a  Roman  pnetorium, 
from  three  contiguous  mofaic  pavements,  all  of  them 
■wrought  with  the  greateft  fymmctry  and  exaftnefs : 
the  figures  are  horles,  trees,  birds,  and  fifli,  finely 
inlaid,  in  fuch  a  variety  ofcolours,  that  they  even 
appear  more  gay  and  lively  than  many  tolerable  paint- 
ings. The  horft',  the  infignia  of  the  Carthaginians, 
is  reprefented  in  tlie  bold  pofture  in  which  it  appears 
.upon  the  African  medals. 

Two  lengues  farther  is  L.owbareah,  the  Aquilaria 
of  the  nnticnts,  where  Curio  landed  the  troops  that 
were  afterw^ird  cut  to  pieces  by  Sabura.  There  are 
here  leveiai  fragments  of  antiquities  ;  but  pone  of 
them  very  remarkable,  except  a  furprifing  cavern:  for 
from  the  f.a  fiiore  to  this  vill.ige,  which  is  at  half  a 
mile's  difi:;i!icc,  i^  a  mouniain  hollowed  with  great 
art  fiom  ilsc  level  of  the  fea  to  the  height  of  20  or 
;.;o  fiet,  uiili  h.n/c  niilars  and  arches  left  (landing  at 
j*r.)f,cr  c^ilcjiiccs  to  iiipport  the  ii:ouiitain.  Thcfc  are 
the  qt:arr;es  inciit^cned  by  Strabo,  from  whence  the 
b.iili'.in-c.oi'Cirih^ge,  Uticn,  and  n:aoy  other  ncigh- 
bcurirg  ci:;e:',    might  receive  their  materials.     As 

this 


through  BARBARY.  269 

this  mountain  is  all  over  (haded  with  trees  %  » the 
arches  below  lie  open  to  the  fea,  with  a  large  cUff  c 
each  fide,  and  the  idand  of  jEgimurus  is  placed  ovei 
againll  them,  while  fprings  are  perpetually  running) 
down  the  racks,  and  feats  are  railed  for  the  weary  Ian 
bourer ;  we  can  fcarcely  doubt,  but  ihat  this  is  die 
cave  which  Virgil  places  fomewhere  in  this  \_ 
notwithftanding  Ibme  commentators  h»ve  thoughc  tl 
fi£Utioua. 

Near  the  fea,  at  a  few  leagues  diftance,  is  a  m: 
foleum,  near  2»  yards  in  dia!ne:er,  erefted  in  1 
form  of  a  cylindrical  pcdertal,  wich  a  vault  under- 
neath ;  and  on  the  cornice  are  feveral  fniall  altars, 
each  of  them  inlcribed  with  the  name  of  a  diftc 
pcrfon.     Thcfe  are  fuppofed   by  the  Arabs  to  I 
been  formerly  fo  many  lamps  for  the  direfticn  c 
mariners. 

Fifty  miles  from  UtJca  is  the  city  of  Bayjah, 
Beja,  the  Vacca  of  Salluft,  a  place  of  great  i 
and-the  chief  mart  for  corn  in  the  whole  kingdom. 

On  the  north-eaft  extremity  of  a  mounrain  named 
Zowoan,  or  Zagwan,  is  a  fmall  flouriHiing  town  of 
the  fame  name,  famed  for  the  dying  of  fcarlet  c 
and  the  bleaching  of  linen  ;  great  quantities  of  hoc 
being  daily  brought  thither  for  that  purpofe  from  a 
parts  of  the  kingdom.  The  ftream  ufed  for  this  p 
pofe  was  conveyed  to  Carthage  ;  and  over  th.;  fpringi 
head  was  a  temple,  the  ruins  of  which  are  itJl  to  t 
feen.  On  an  ancient  gate  of  the  city  is  carved  a  ram's 
head,  under  which  is  the  word  Auxllis,  from  whic! 
it  may  be  prefunied  that  the  city  was  dedicated  to  Ju 
piter  Ammon. 

We  fliall  now  take  a  view  of  the  mod  remarkable 
places  in  the  winter  circuit.  Here  all  the  pares  : 
have  fccn  fall  very  fliort  of  that  fertility  attributcJ  r 
them  by  the  antients  -,  and  psrcicularly  thofe  near  ihr 
fca-coaft  are  generally  of  a  dry,  fandy  nature,  with 


jrcat  depth  of  Ibil. 


Hetkla, 


470  Dr.  SHAW'S  TRAVELS 

Herkla,  or  Heracl«,  of  the  lower  empire,  and 
probably  the  AdrumetLnn  of  the  earlier  ages,  is  buik 
upon  a  promontory,  two  Ic^ues  to  the  fouth-eaft  of 
a  morafs,  fuppofed  to  have  been  the  boundary  be- 
tween this  province  and  Zengitania.  It  appears  to 
have  been  little  more  than  a  mile  in  circuit,  and  if 
we  may  be  allowed  to  judge  of  its  former  grandeur 
by  the  remaining  ruins,  it  will  appear  a  place  of  im- 
portance, rather  tiian  of  extent.  That  part  of  the 
promontory  which  formed  the  port  feems  to  have  been 
wallcrd  in  lo  the  very  brink  of  the  fea,  and  to  the  weft 
and  fouth-wcft  of  this  prcmiontory  were  the  port  and 
cothon  wliich  Csefar  could  not  enter  in  his  purfuit  of 
Varus. 

The  next  remarkable  place  upon  the  coaft  is  Sufa, 
fituated  on  the  northern  extremity  of  a  hmg  range 
of  eminences,  about  five  leagues  to  the  fouth-eaft  of 
Herkla.  This  is  the  chief  mart  of  this  kingdom  for 
oil ;  it  has  alio  a  Aourifhing  trade  for  linens,  and 
may  be  reckoned  one  of  the  moft  conliderable  cities 
of  the  Tuniicens,  Here  arc  Icveral  columns  of  gra- 
nite, vaults,  and  other  marks  of  its  being  formerly  a 
confiderable  place.  It  is  walled  round,  and  was  pro- 
bably one  of  thofe  towns  that  fubmitted  to  Calar  in 
his  march  to  Rufpina. 

L.c.ivi.nj^  the  fea-coafl:,  and  taking  an  inland  courle, 
we  I'uon  arrived  at  Hydrah,  which  is  lituat^  in  a 
narrmv  valley,  with  a  rivulet  running  by  itj  and  for 
extent  of  ruins  a^pt-ars  to  have  been  one  of  the  moft 
conliiierable  places  in  this  country.  For  there  are 
here  tlie  walls  of  ll'veral  houfes,  the  pavement  of  a 
whole  ftrcct,  with  a  variety  of  altars  and  maufb- 
K'ums  ttill  remaining.  Many  of  the  latter  arc  well 
prciervcd,  and  arc  or  various  forms. 

Eight  kagiics  to  the  weftward  of  Sufa  is  Kairwan, 
the  Vico  Au^utti  of  the  antients.  It  is  a  walled  city, 
antl  the  il'cond  in  the  kingdo.m  for  trade,  and  the 
miriibtr  of  its  inhabitants.  It  is  fituated  in  a  barren 
plain,  and  at  half  a  furlong's  diftance  without  the 

wallsy 


through  BARBARY. 


walls,  is  a  pond  and  a  capacious  ciftern,  builc  to  re- 
ceive the  rain-waECFi  but  the  former,  which  ischicRy 
for  the  ufc  of  the  cattle,  drying  up  or  putnfyir^  in 
the  heat  of  fumoier,  caufes  agues  and  oihcr  diltcm- 
pers.  Here  are  Ibtne  fine  remains  of  die  antienc  ar- 
cliitetture,  and  the  great  mofque,  efleemed  both,  the 
moll  magniScent  and  the  moll  (acred  in  Barbary,  is 
fupported  by  an  almoft  incredible  number  of  granite 
pillars.  Eight  leagues  to  the  weftward  of  Kairwan 
are  the  ruins  of  Tmzza,  ihe  Turzo  of  Ptolemy, 
where  are  feveral  vaplted  chambers  perpetually  filled 
with  fiilphureous  fteams,  much  frequented  by  ihe 
Arabs  for  the  ufe  of  fweating. 

At  ihc  diftancc  of  a  furlong  from  Spaida,  the  an- 
tient  Sufetula,  is  a  magnificent  triumphal  arch  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  confilling  of  one  large  arch,  and 
two  fmaller,  one  on  each  lidc,  with  the  fragment  of 
an  infcription  upon  it  From  iherce  nil  along  to  the 
city,  is  a  pavement  of  large  black  ftones,  with  a  pa- 
rapet wall  on  each  fide.  At  the  end  of  this  pave- 
ment, we  pafs  through  a  beautiful  portico,  built  in 
the  fame  manner  with  the  triumphal  arch.  This  leads 
into  a  fpacious  court,  where  are  die  ruins  of  three  con- 
tiguous  temples-,  but  the  roofs,  porticos and,fw>iits, 
are  broken  down,  though  all  the  odier  walls,  with 
dieir  pediments  and  entablatures,  remain  entire.  In 
each  of  them  is  a  niche,  fronting  the  portico, ,  and; 
behind  that  in  the  midJle  temple  is  a  fmall  chamber,- 
which  formerly  fer\xd,  perhaps,  for  a  vcltry. 

Upon  an  eminence,  fix  leagues  to  the  wcft-L 
fooih-weft  of  Spaitla,  is  Caflarccn.  The  river  Dei  1> 
runs  winding  below  it  i  and  upon  a  precipice  that 
hangs  over  that  river,  is  a  triumphal  strth,  more  re- 
markable far  the  quantity  and  value  of  the  maccriah, 
than  for  the  beauty  and  elegance  of  the  deftgn.  Bvit 
not wldi Handing  ttic  rudends  of  the  workmaofhip, 
and  the  oddnefs  of  the  liiuaiion,  it  has  an  infcrip-« 
tion,  in  which  Manlius  Felix,  the  founder,  is  grate- 
fully commemorated.     In  the  plains  below   the  city 


272  Dr.  SHAW'S  TRAVELS 
are  many  niaufoteutns,  upon  one  of  which  is  ah  tlcgf 
in  hexameter  and  pentameter  verfes.  This  place 
fcems  to  have  received  its  prcfent  name  from  the 
maufoleums,  which  at  a  diftance  have  the  appearince 
of  fo  many  towers  or  fortrefTes. 

At  Jemme,  the  Tiftra  of  Cafar,  arc  many  anti- 
quities -,  as  a  variety  of  columns,  altars  with  defaced 
infcriptions  i  and  many  trunks  and  arms  of  marble 
ftatues,  one  of  which  is  of  the  coloflal  kind  in.  ar- 
mour, another  is  of  a  naked  Venus,'  in  the  pofture 
and  fize  of  the  Mediceah ;  both  by  good  maflers  v 
but  their  hands  arc  broken  off:  This  place  is  alfo  re- 
markably diftinguilhed  by  beautiful  remains  of  a 
fpacious  amphitheatre,  that  originally  confilled  of  64 
arches  and  four  orders  of  Columns.  The  upper  or- 
der, which  is,  perhaps,  no  more  than  an  atuc,-  has 
fuffcred  by  the  Arabs,  in  a  late  revolt  of  thofe  peo- 
ple, who  ufed  this  place  as  a  fortrefs :  Mahomet  bey 
blew  up  four  of  the  arches  from  top  to  Bottom ; .  6thei> 
wife  nothing  could  be  more  entire  and  beautiful.  Ic 
feems  to  have  been  built  about  the  time  of  the  An- 
tonines ;  and  as  the  elder  Gordian  was  procluined 
emperor  of  this  city,  it  is  probable,  that  in  gratitude 
to  the  place  where  he  obtained  the  purple,  he  founded 
this  ftrudure. 

ferrcanah,  which  from  its  lonely  fituation,  and 
other  circumftances,  was  probably  the  Thala  of  Sal- 
lurt,  lies- in  the  fame  paralltl  with  Rugga,  and  was" 
once  the  largcft  city  of  Bizacium,  though  it  has  now 
no  other  remains  of  its  antient  grandeur  but  a  few 
granite  and  other  columns,  whieh,  by  fome  extraor- 
dinary chance,  the  Arabs  have  left  ftanduig  on  their 
pedcftals. 

"W'e  now  enter  upon  that  part  of  the  Sahara  whidi 
belongs  to  tl-.e  Tunifcens,  and  is  called  El  Jcreed,  or 
Tlie  Dry  Country.  The  villages  in  this  diftrift  arc 
built  like  thofe  in  Algiers,  with  mud  walls,  and  raf- 
ters of  pahns  -,  among  them  may  be  found  graniio 
pillars,  and  Koman  infcripnons.  The  inhabitants  iit 
-     '•  -  general 


through  BARBARY.  2?j 

funeral  trade  in  dates,  which  they  exchange  for  wheac, 
barley,  linen,  and  other  commoditir-s,  brought  from 
ihc  neighbouring  paru.  The  dates  of  Tozar,  one 
of  thefe  villages,  being  moft  tftccmed,  tliiit  is  bc- 
tome  the  principal  mart  for  them  ;  great  quantities 
of  them  arc  exported  to  Ethiopia,  whers  they  are 
exchanged  for  black  flaves,  at  the  rate  of  two  of 
three  quintals  for  a  black. 

The  roving  iinfcttlcd  life  of  the  Arabs,  and  the 
perpetual  grievances  the  Moors  frequently  fuffer  from 
the  Turks,  will  not  permit  either  of  th-m  to  enjoy 
thatiiberty  and  fecurity  which  give  birth  and  encou- 
ragement to  learning:  hence  the  knowlegc  of  medi- 
cine, of  phibfophy  and  the  matliematics,  which  once 
flourifhed  among  the  Arabs,  are  now  fo  loft^  thac 
ihcre  are  fcarcely  any  traces  of  them  R'maining. 

The  children  of  ihe  Moors  and  Turlts  are.fenc 
to  fchoo]  at  about  fix  years  of  age,  when  they 
ajc  taught  to  read,  and  write,  for  the  value  of  about 
a  penny  a  week  :  inftead  of  paper,  each  boy  has  a 
piece  of  thin  fquare  board  flightly  daubed  over  with 
whiting;  on  this  he  malccs  his  letters,  wliich  may  be 
wiped  off  or  renewed  at  pleafure.  Having  m:ic!e 
fomc  progrcfs  in  the  koran,  he  is  initiated  in  the  le- 
vera]  ceremonies  and  myfteries  of  religion.  When  a 
boy  has  diftinguiflied  himfelf  in  any  of  th-jfe  branches 
of  learning,  he  is  richly  dreflcd,  moi^ntcd  i;pon.a 
horfe  finely  caparifoned,  and  condudtd  amidll:  the 
huzzas  of  his  fchool-fellows  through  th^  Itreets } 
while  hia  friends  and  relations  a(j'trni.-le  to  congratu- 
late his  parents,  and  load  him  with  gitt-.  After  be- 
ing three  or  four  years  at  fchoo!,  ihc  boys  are  pu:  tu 
trades,  or  enrolled  in  the  army,  vvhsre  moil  of  ihcni 
loon  forget  all  they  have  learned. 

While  I  was  at  Algiers,  I  endeavoured  to  become 
acquainted  with  thole  perlbns  who  were  mofi:  d'ftin- 
guifljed  for  their  learning ;  and  thotif^li,  from  t'lclr 
natural  Ihyncfs  to  ilr.mgers,  and  co:;tL'nipc  of  the 
Chrllliaiis»  it  is  difficult  to  cultivate  a  real  fiUnJlhip 
with  thcm«  yet  1  fuon  found,  that  iliiur  cSu(.f  allro- 
VoL,  VI.  1  oomen 


27;.         Dr.  SHAW'S  TRAVELS 

n-Jtiicr,  who  fu{:erintends  and  regulates  the  hours  of 
prayer,  had  ncr  tht' fK.14  lo  make  a  lun-dial:  that  the 
whuir  art  of  ruvigaiicn,  as  pradiifed  at  Algiers  and 
'I'unis,  corfirttd  ni  nothifig  morethm  what  istcrnied 
the  prickiny  ot  a  tivirt,  and  tiiftinguilhing  the  eight 
principal  points  v.i  i\x  to:i:pnfs  :  and  that  even  chc- 
iiiiiLry,  formi-rly  iht-  favourite  fcience  of  thefc  people, 
is  at  prcicnt  only  applicJ  to  the  diftilling  a  little 
rofe-water.  The  phylicians  chiefly  ftudy  the  Spanifti 
edition  of  Diofcorjties  j  but  the  figures  of  the  plants 
and  animals  are  more  conlultcd  than  the  dcfcriptions. 
Yur  thcfe  people  arc  naturally  fiibtlc  and  ingenious  j 
:ind  nothing  but  time,  application  and  encouragement, 
arc  wanting  to  cultivate  and  iiiiprove  their  faculties. 

The  Mahomctms  being  for  the  moft  part  predefti- 
narians,  pay  Utile  rcgird  to  phyfic,  and  generally 
leave  the  difordcp  to  contend  with  nature,  or  make 
ufe  of  charms  or  incantations.  They,  however,  re- 
Ibrt  to  bagnios  in  all  diftempcrs,  and  there  are*  a  few 
remedies  in  general  ufe.  Thus  in  pleuritic  and  rheu- 
ni=tic  rafes,  thty  make  feveral  piiaftures  on  the  pare 
nfi'efted  with  a  r.d  hot  iron,  repeating  the  operation 
according  to  the  violence  of  the  dileale,  and  the 
Urt-ngth  of  the  piuient.  They  pour  frcfli  butter  al- 
nioft  boiling  hot  inio  all  fimple  gun-fhot  wounds. 
The  prii  kly  pear  roaitcd  in  the  alhes  is  applied  hot, 
for  the  c'.irc  cf  bruii'cs,  fv.-ellings,  and  inflammations ; 
ttid  a  dram  or  two  of  the  root  of  the  roun(l  birth- 
v.'orr,  is  an  ellabliilied  remedy  for  the  cholic;  fome 
of  tln'i;i  iiiocul.itf  for  the  Iniall-poxi  though  this 
practice  is  not  much  in  repute  in  this  part  of  Barbaiy, 
and  tliey  tell  a  number  of  ftorics  to  difcouragc  the 
ufe  of  it.  Tli?y  iuive  few  conipound  medicines-, 
JKv.v'.-ver,  rh'.-y  i;!;-  .1  mixture  of  myrr]\,  faiiron,  aloes, 
and  {ynip  of  n:yril[:- berries  wjucli  is  often  found  cf- 
ftctiLii  111  tiiL'  cv.vr  of  the  pi>igLte. 

I  liavL-  fon-'-tlims  been  favoured  with  the  fight  of 
liii.il- aiJitiit  k.iluid-r-,  in  whlni  the  fun's  place,  the 
l(-ni'd:i;r;i,-.l  and  noHiJind  arcii,  the  length  of  ^e 
:\v;l'i:hr,  v. .iJi  t!ir  :t.'V'.rjl  l;outs  01  prayer  for  each 

daj 


thi-ough  baRbary. 


r  ih  the  month. 


:  calculated  I 


2,-5 
,  and 


1  nimuie, 

Walitifully  inlci'ccd  in  proper  Culumns  :  buc  tScfe  arc 
as  liulc  confultcd  as  iheir  anritnt  mathematical  inftru- 
mrnts,  of  which  they  know  not  the  ul'e.  NotwiiK- 
ftan':1ing  the  ficill  of  their  aficc-llors  in  arithmetic  and 
algebra,  not  one  in  twenty  ihoufand  appears  to  be  at 
prefent  .icquaiotcd  with  the  firft  operaiions  in  ihcfc 
branches  of  mathematics;  yet  the  merchants  arc  fre- 
quently very  dextrous  in  tlie  aild'ition  and  labtraftioik  1 
of  large  fums  by  memory  j  and  have  alio  a  very  fip- 
galar  method  of  numeration,  by  putting  their  hands 
into  each  others  Deeves,  and  touching  one  another 
with  this  or  that  finger,  or  a  particular  joint,  C3ch 
denoting  a  determined  fum  or  number.  'Ihcs,  with- 
out moving  their  lips,  they  conclude  bargains  of  thii  J 
greatcfl:  valu' 

Several  clans  of  the  Arabs  go  bare-headed  all  tl«t  1 
year   long,  as  Mafiiiida  did  of  old,    binding    tlicir  1 
temples  only  v/ich  a  narrow  fillet,  10  prevent  thcif 
hair  being  troublefome.     But  the  Moors  and  Turks 
in  general,  wiih  fonie  of  the  richer  clans  of  Arabs, 
wear  upon  the  crowns  of  their  heads  a  fmall  cap  of 
fcarlet    woollen  cloth,    of   the  maniifai?:urc  of  thq 
country.     The  turban  is  folded  round  the  bottom  of  J 
thtfc  caps,  and  by  the  faihion  of  the  folds  the  fevcrd  I 
orders  of  foldiers  are  diClinguifhcd,  not  only  from  duil 
tradcfmen  and  cidzens,  but  from  one  another.     Th^l 
Arabs  wear  a  loofe  garment,  called  a  Hyke,  which  I 
isa  piece  of  cloth  of  their  own  manuladure,  ufualiy:! 
fix  yards  long,  and  five  or  fix  fe^'t  in  breadth  j  this,  J 
which  they  wrap  round  them,  and  gird  up  with  a  fafh»  1 
ferves  them  for  a  complete  drcfs  in  the  day,  and  fori 
a  bed  and  covering  by  night.     Above  this  they  wear  1 
a  cloak  or  upper  garment  called  a  Burnoole,  which  is  ■ 
wove  in  one  piece,  with  a  kind  of  hood  for  the  head  j  ' 
it  is  alio  tight  about  the  neck,  and  widens  below  like 
a' cloak:  but  this  is  only  worn  in  rainy  and  very  cold 
weather. 

'  Some.of  them  wear  unde^ their  hykes  a  clofc-bo- 
Mtinic,  with  or  without  Uccves,  which. 


ayfi         Dr.  SHAWs  TRAVELS 

as  well  as  the  hyke,  is  girded  about  their  bodies, 
Cfpecially  when  they  are  engaged  in  any  labour  or 
exercife  ;  at  which  time  they  ufually  throw  off  their 
hykcs  and  burnooles,  and  remain  only  in  their  tunics. 
Of  this  kind  was  probably  the  habit  worn  by  our  Sa- 
viour, when  he  is  faid  to  lay  ajide  Bis  garments,  and  to 
take  a  tozvel  and  gird  bimfelf,  John  xiii.  4.  Their 
girdles  are  ufually  of  worftcd,  wove  in  a  variety  of 
iigures,  and  made  to  wrap  ieveral  times  round  their 
bodies.  One  end  being  doubled  and  fewed  along 
the  edges,  fervcs  for  a  purfc  ■,  in  thb  girdle  the 
Turks  and  Arabs  alfo  fix  tneir  knives  and  poniards  ; 
while  the  writers  diftinguifh  themfelves  by  having  an 
inkhorn,  the  badge  of  their  office,  fufpended  in  the 
like  fituation. 

The  Turks  and  Moors  wear  linen  under  their  tu- 
nics ;  but  the  Arabs  in  general  wear  nothing  but 
woollen.  However,  in  fame  places  it  js  cuilomary 
for  the  Arab  bridegroom  and  bride  to  wear  each  a 
Ihirt  at  the  celebration  of  their  nuptials  ■,  but  then 
they  are  not  to  walh  or  pull  them  off,  while  any  part  - 
of  them  is  remaining.  The  (leeves  of  thofe  worn  by 
the  men,  arc  wide  and  open,  without  any  (bids  at 
the  wrift,  while  thofe  of  the  women  are  made  with 
gauze,  and  different  coloured  ribbons,  interchange- 
ably fewn  together. 

The  Bcdoween,  who  live  in  tents,  arc  not  accuf- 
tomed  to  wear  drawers,;  though  the  cidzens  of  both 
fexes  conftantly  appear  in  them,  efpecially  when  they 
go  abroad  or  receive  vifits.  The  virgins  arc  diftin-  ■ 
guilhed  from  thofe  of  the  matrons  in  having  theirs 
made  of  needle-work,  ftriped  filk,  or  linen :  but 
when  the  women  are  at  home,  or,  in  private,  they 
lay  afide  their  hykcs,  and  fometimes  their  tunics, 
and  inftead  of  drawers  bind  only  a  towel  about  their' 
loms.  It  is  obfi-rvablc,  that  when  the  Moorifh  wo- 
men appear  in  public,  rhey  conftantly  foldthemlelves' 
fo  ctoie  up  in  their  hykcs,  that  very  little  of  theit 
faces  can  be  Icfo:  but  in  the  liimmer  months,  when 
they  retire  to  dicir  cpuntry- feats,  the;  walk  abroad 
4  with 


tliroagh  BARBARY. 


with  lets  cauiion  and  refervc,  and  upon  the  approach 
of  a  ftranger  only  let  l:il  tiicir  ve.is.  Ihcy  all  affcft 
to  have  their  hair  hang  down  to  the  ground,  which 
they  colled  into  one  lock  upon  the  hinder  part  of  ihe 
head,  binding  and  plaiting  ir  with  ribbon; ;  but 
where  nature  has  been  Icfs  libe'al,  they  I'upply  the 
dcfcft  by  adding  artiticial  to  the  natural  locks.  The 
bair  being  thus  adorned,  ihey  i:e  ciofi  to 'ether  above 
the  lock  the  fcveral  corners  o^  a  triangular  piece  of 
linen,  wrouglit  wuh  the  needle  in  a  variety  of  figures. 
Thofc  ot  fuperior  fortune  wear  a  larrnah,  as  tt  is  cal- 
led, whicli  IS  nearly  of  the  fame  (hape  with  rh-.-  other 
head-drefs  i  but  is  made  of  thin  flexible  p!ates  of  gold 
or  (ilvcr,  cut  through  and  engraved  in  imitation  of 
lactr.  A  handkerchief  of  filk,  gauze,  crape,  or 
painted  linen,  bound  cloie  about  tiie  iarmah,  and 
(legligeoily  falling  upon  the  lock,  complcats  their 
drcfs. 

However,  none  of  thefe  ladies  think  themfclves 
compleatly  adorned,   till  they  have  tinged  tiie  hair 
and  the  edges  of  their  eye-lids  with  the  powder  of 
lead  ore.     This  operation  it  performed  by  dipping  a 
wooden  botikin  of  the  thicknefs  of  a  quitl  into  the 
powder,  and  then  drawing  it  under  the  eye-lids,  over  j 
the  ball  of  the  eye,  which  communicates  to  the  eyes  * 
3  footy  colour,  that  is  thought  to  add  a  wonderful 
grace  to  perJbnsof  all  complexions.     This  prdc"tice  is 
of  great  antiquity  \  for  wc  find  that  when  Jezebel  is 
faid  io  biK/e painted  her  face,  the  original  words  are, 
Jbe  adjujled  (or  fet  off)  her  eyes  with  the  powder  of  had 
ore,  2  Kings  Ix.  ^o,     Indeed  this  kind  of  ornament  * 
was  not  only  made  ufc  of  by  the  caftern  nations,  but  ' 
by  the  Greeks  and  Romans. 

The  Turks  aiid  Moors  are  early  rifers,  and  con- 
flantly  attend  the  public  devotions  at  break  of  day. 
After  which,  each  perlbn  is  employed  in  his  proper 
trade  and  occupation  till  len  in  the  morning,  the 
ufgal  time  of  dining-,  returning  again  to  bufinels  till 
the  afternoon  prayers,  when  all  kind  of  work  ceafes, 
and  the  fliops  are  fliut  up.  The  fupper  co:nmonly 
■  T  3  followa_ 


^TS         Br.  SHAWs  travels 

foUows  the  prayers  of  fun-fet,  and  then  repeating  the 
fame  at  the  frtting  of  the  watch,  when  it  begins  tQ 
be  dark,  they  go  to  bed  immcdiaicly  after.  Some 
of  the  graver  people,  who  have  no  conftant  employ, 
fpcnd  the  day,  either  in  converfing  with  one  another 
in  the  barbers  Ihops,  in  the  hazar,  or  at  a  coffee- 
houfe-,  while  a  (^reac  part  of  the  Turkifh  or  Moorifh 
youth,  with  many  of  the  unmarried  fuldicrs,  attend 
their  concvibines  with  wine  and  mufic  ijito  the  fields, 
or  make  merry  at  one  of  the  public  uvcrns  i  which, 
tho«(;h  prohibited  by  their  religion,  thefe  govcrn- 
nid'ius  art  obliged,  from  the  neccflity  of  the  times, 
to  dilpcnfe  with. 

The  lives  of  the  Arabs  are  one  continued  round  of 
idlcncfs  and  divt-rfinns.  When  they  are  not  called 
abroad  by  any  padimc,  tlicy  fpcr*'  the  day  in  loiter- 
ing at  h'jme,  Jino^kinj;  iheir  pipes,  and  repofing 
thcmf^K'cs  under  lb:nc  neighbouring  (hade.  They 
have  not  liic  Kcft  rcliih  for  domeftic  pleafiircs,  and 
are  feldoin  known  lo  converfe  with  their  wives,  or 
play  with  their  children.  Ihe  /rah  places  his  higheft 
f^tisfaiftion  in  his  horf,-,  ai-.'.t  is  feldom  in  high  fpiritSi 
but  when  riding  at  full  fpced,  or  hunting.  The 
eaftcrn  nations  in  general  are  very  dexterous  at  this 
excrcife  ;  and  upon  one  of  the  medallions  of  Conftan- 
tine's  arch  is  a  beautiful  reprelentacion  of  this  fport, 
as  performed  at  prefent  by  the  Arabs ;  who,  having 
rnurxd  the  beaft  from  his  retirement,  and  purfucd  it 
into  ibmc  adjacent  plain,  endeavour,  by  frequently 
overtaking  and  turning  it,  ip  tire  and  perplex  it,  and 
then  watciiing  an  opportunity,  they  fix  lances  in  its 
fides. 

At  the  hunting  of  the  lion  a  whole  diftrift  is  fum- 
moned  to  appear,  who  forming  themfelves  into  a  cir- 
cle, at  firft  enclofe  a  Jpacc  three  or  four  miles  in 
compafs,  according  to  the  number  of  the  people^ 
and  ih«:  nature  of  the  ground.  The  footmen  ad- 
vance finl:,  rufning  into  the  thickets  with  their  dogs, 
and  lances,  to  rouze  their  game,  while  the  horfcmcn 
keeping  a  little  behind,  ore  always  ready  to  fallf  oa 

the 


through  BAlWs^RY.  i8« 

the  wild  he.ift.  They  ftiil  prsceelimimerce,  which 
(jftU,  till  »i  laft  they  either  dole  in  io^nween  them. 
\s:il.  a.'C-ii  n.  The  accidcnial  pjfti.Tie*\ihe  year, 
ucciiiui^>  i.  iijinetimcs  excrca^)!)-  diverting^ 
various  afli^iiiiis  w.thin  ijie  circle  being  thus  drt 
geiii-jr,  liu}-  fel  jom  fail  of  having  a  variety  of  a^ 
able  1  h;to--i  after  h^res,  jackals,  leopards,  hvxiut, 
and  oiiicr  wild  bcails.  It  is  a  comnjon  obfcrvaiion 
in  this  i_ouii:ry,  that  the  mument  the  lion  is  rouzed 
he  will  cnJeawour  to  fcizc  upjn  the  perfon  nearefthim, 
and  fuller  himfelf  lo  be  cu:  to  pieces  rather  than  quit 
his  hold. 

H-twking  is  one  of  the  principal  diverfions  of  the 
Arabs  and  geniry  of  the  kingdom  of  Tunis,  where 
the  woods  adbrJ  a  beautiful  variety  of  hawks  and  fal- 
cons. Thole  v/Jio  dtlight  in  tbwli.?g,  inftead  of 
fpringing  th  game  wich  dogs,  Ihade  tlK'uifclves  with 
a  piece  of  canvaJ's  ItrctclKrd  upi^n  two  reeds,  and 
painted  widi  the  Eigure  of  a  leopard.  Thus  concealed, 
the  fowler  w^lks  through  the  breaks  and  avenues, 
looking  through  ihmc  holes  a  little  below  the  top  of 
the  (krei:n,  to  obl'civt  what  paQes  before  hiin.  It  h 
remarkable  that  the  partridges,  and  fomeodter  birds, 
on  the  ^pproacti  of  the  canval's,  "covey  together, 
though  they  were  before  at  Ibme  diftance  from  each 
other  i  and  the  wiKidcock,  quail,  and  other  birds  that 
commonly  feed  in  flijck-,,  will,  on  feeing  it,  Hand 
ftill  with  a  look  of  allonilhment.  Thus  the  fportf- 
man  has  an  opportunity  of  co.Tiing  near  ihctn,  when 
refting  the  Ikreen  upon  the  ground,  and  direiiing  the 
muzzle  of  his  piece  through  one  of  tlie  holes,  he 
ihoots  a  whole  covty  at  once.  The  Aralis  have 
alio  another  mctJiod  of  catching  partridges  ■,  for 
obferving  that  alter  their  being  halHly  fprung  two 
or  thac  times,  they  become  fatigued  and  languid, 
tlicy  then  run  in  upon  them,  and  knock  them  down 
with  their  zerwaities,  which  are  ihort  fticks  bound 
round  with  iron,  or  inlaid  with  pewter  or  brafs.  Thelc 
ferve  ihofc  Arabs  who  are  not  malters  of  a  gun  for 
offcnfive  and  deftnfivc  weapons. 

T4  Wiik 


a8o         Dr.  SHAW's  TRAVELS 

WitK  refpeft  to  the  manners  and  cuftoms  of  the 
Bed:)Wfers,  they  retain  many  of  thofc  wc  read  of  in 
facrtd  and  prophane  hiftory;  for  excepting  their  re- 
lig;on,  they  are  the  fame  people  they  were  two  or 
three  thoufand  years  ago.  Upon  meeting  one  another, 
they  ffill  ufe  the  primicive  falutation,  "  Peace  be  un- 
to you."  The  inferiors  out  of  deference  and  refpcft 
kifs  the  feet,  knees,  or  garments  of  their  fuperiors; 
while  the  children  or  kinsiolks  pay  the  fame  re/peft 
to  the  heads  of  tlieir  parents,  and  aged  relations.  In 
ialucing  each  o:her  thty  lay  their  nand  upon  their 
brcait,  v\  hile  tiiofe  who  are  more  intimately  acquaint- 
ed, or  are  of  an  equal  age  and  dignity,  mutually  kifs 
the  hand,  head  or  fhoulder  of  each  other.  At  the. 
fcafl  of  their  Bairam  and  other  great  folemnitics^ 
the  wife  compliments  her  hufband  by  kifling  his 
hand. 

Here  pcrfons  of  the  higheft  charafter,  like  the  an- 
tient  patriarchs,  and  the  heroes  of  Homer,  perform 
what  wc  Ihould  term  menial  employments^  The 
g.eaiefl:  prince  of  thefe  countries  is  not  afhamed  to 
fetch  a  iamb  from  his  flock  and  kill  it,  while  the 
princcfs  mjkes  hafte  to  prepare  her  fire  and  kettle, 
and  then  drelTes  ir.  The  cuftom  of  walking  cither 
bare -foot  or  with  fanJals,  renders  the  compliment  of 
■waihing  the  ilranger's  feet  rtill  neceflary.  This  .is 
done  by  the  mafter  of  the  family,  who  firft  prefents 
h'.JTifeif,  ;ind  is  yiways  the  moft  officious  in  this  aft 
of  kindncfs.  When  his  entertainment  is  prepared^ 
he  wouici  think  it  a  fiiame  to  fit  down  with  his  guefts  ^ 
inftead  of  v-'Iiii-'i  he  flands  all  the  time,  and  waits 
upon  them.  Yet  notwiihttanding  this  rcfpeft,  thofe 
^re  ranicti:nes  overtaken  and  pillaged  in  the  morning, 
by  the  vtry  persons  who  have  pntertaincd  them  wiui 
fuch  hufjitulliy  at  night. 

Howsvcr,  to  the  honour  of  the  weftcm  Mocrs. 

tlyy  carry  on  a  trade  wi-;h  fome  barbarous  nations 

bor'.<:nr>2^  on  the  river  Niger,  without  feeing  the  petr    . 

tyrj..  fi.ey  UA«e  widi,   or  iheir  having  once  broke 

(hrauffh 


through  that  original  charter  of  commerce,  which 
from  time  iniincmorjal  \us  been  fettled  between  them. 
The  method  is  this  :  at  a  certain  time  of  the  year, 
which,  if  I  am  not  millaken,  is  the  winter,  they 
make  this  journey  in  a  niMicrous  caravan,  carrying 
with  them  firings  of  coral,  f;lafs- beads,  bracelets  of 
horn,  knives,  fiiflars,  and  the  like.  On  their  arriv- 
ing at  the  place  appointed,  which  is  on  a  cerrain  day 
of  the  moon,  they  find  in  the  evening  fcveral  heaps 
of  gold  duft,  at  a  imail  diftance  from  each  other; 
^gainll  which,  the  Moors  place  fo  m.ny  of  their 
trinkets  3:5  they  judge  will  be  taken  for  the  value. 
If  the  Nigricans  the  ncj;c  morning  approve  of  the 
bargain,  they  take  up  the  trinkets  and  leave  the  gold, 
or  elfe  make  f)me  dcduftiuns  from  the  gold  dnft,  &c. 
Thus,  to  their  great  honour,  they  tranfaifl  their  ex- 
change, without  [he  leaft  inftance  of  perfidioufnefs 
or  diflioncfty. 

The  aniient  cuHom  of  plighting  their  troth,  by 
drinking  out  of  each  other's  hands,  is,  at  prelent, 
the  only  ceremony  ufed  by  the  Algerines  in  their 
marriages.  But  the  contrail  is  to  be  firfl:  agreed 
upon  between  the  parents,  in  which  mention  is  made, 
not  only  of  the  fum  of  money  which  the  bridtgroom 
ftttles  on  the  bride,  but  of  the  fiveral  changes  oi"  rai- 
mcnt,  the  quantity  of  jewels,  and  the  number  of  Haves 
with  which  the  bride  is  to  be  attended,  when  Ihe  firft 
waits  upon  her  hufband.  The  parties  never  fee  each 
other  till  the  marriage  is  to  be  confummated,  when 
the  relations  being  withdrawn,  the  bridegroom  firft 
unveils,  and  then  undreffes  the  bride.  Tlie  huf- 
band may  put  away  his  wife  when  he  pleafes,  upon 
the  forfeiture  of  the  fortune  he  has  fettk-d-upon  her  : 
but  he  Cannot  afterw-irii  take  her  again,  till  after  flie 
is  mirried  and  bedded  by  another  man. 

The  civility  and  rcfpect  paid  by  the  politer  nations 
to  the  fair,  are  here  coniidered  as  abfurd  infringe- 
ments on  the  law  of  natiiie,  which  alfigns  the  pre- 
Hinentc  to  man.     For  the  wives  of  tliis  country, 

arc 


a82  Dr.  SHAW's  TRAVELS 

are  only  confidcred  as  a  fuperior  diia  of  fervants. 
who  are  yet  to  have  the  greatcftlhare  of  toil  and  bufi- 
xxCs.  While  the  lazy  hu(bands  take  their  repofe  un- 
der fome  neighbouring  fhade,  and  the  yout^  men 
and  nuidcns  attend  the  Bocks,  the  wives  are  either 
all  day  employed  at  their  looms,  grinding  at  the  milt, 
or  drefling  provifions  j  and  to  conclude  the  day,  they 
fliU  take  a  picch<jr,  or  a  goat's  fkin,  and  tying  their 
fucking  children  to  their  backs,  trudge  two  or  three 
miles  to  fetch  water.  Yet  in  the  midft  of  all  this 
buTinefs,  neither  thefe  country  ladies,  nor  thofe  of 
better  falhion  in  cities,  will  lay  afide  any  of  their 
ornaments,  neither  their  nofe-jewels,  their  bracelets 
for  their  arms  and  l(-'gs,  or  their  car-rings,  all  of 
which  are  very  cumberTomc  j  nor  will  they  omit  ting- 
ing their  eyes  with  lead  ore ;  fo  prevalent  is  cuftom, 
and  fo  zealous  are  even  the  ladies  in  fiarbary  to  ap- 
pear  in  falhion. 

The  greateft  part  of  the  Moorifli  \vomcn  would  be 
eftcemed  beauties  even  in  England.  Their  children 
have  the  fined  complexions  of  any  nadon  whatfocyer} 
but  the  boys  are  fo  expofed  to  the  fun,  that  they  foon 
attain  the  fwanhinds  of  the  Arab:  however,  the 
girls,  keeping  more  at  home,  preferve  their  bcaun' 
till  they  are  thirty,  when  they  arc  ufuatly  paft  child- 
bearing.  One  of  thefe  girls  is  fometimes  a  mother 
at  eleven,  and  a  grand-mother  at  twenty-two  -,  and 
iheir  lives  being  ufually  as  long  as  thofe  of  the  Eu- 
ropeans, thele  matrons  fometimes  live  to  iec  their 
children  of  many  generations. 

No  nation  in  the  world  is  fo  fuperftitious  as  the 
Arabs,  or  even  the  Mahometans  in  general.  They 
hang  the  figure  of  an  open  hand  round  the  neck  m 
their  children  i  and  both  the  Turks  and  Moors  paint 
it  upon  their  Ihips  and  houfes  as  a  counter-charm  to 
an  evil  eye.  The  people  who  are  grown  up  always 
carry  about  with  them  Ibme  paragraph  of  the  koran, 
which  they  place  upon  their  brealT,  or  few  under  their 
caps,  to  prevent  faicination  and  witchcraft,  and  to 

fecure 


through  BARBARY.  283 

lecuie  themfelves  from  ficknefs  and  misfoftunes. 
The  virtues  of  ihefe  charms  are  fuppofed  co  be  fo 
univerfal,  that  they  alfo  bang  ihem  to  the  necks  of 
their  cattle,  their  horfes,  and  other  bcalb  of  burden. 

The  Mahometans  have  a  great  veneration  for  their 
Marabutts,  who  arc  generally  pcrfons  of  a  rigid  au- 
ftere  life,  continually  employing  themfelves  eitiicr  in 
counting  over  ihcir  beads,  or  in  meditation  and  prayer. 
Their  chaplct  ufually  confifts  of  99  beads,  on  touch- 
ing each  of  which  they  cither  fay,  "  GoJ  be  praifcd, 
God  is  great,  or,  God  forgive  me."  This  faintftijp 
goes  by  fucceffion  ;  and  the  fon,  provided  he  can  be- 
have wich  equal  gravity,  is  entitled  to  the  fame  reve- 
rence and  eiteem  with  the  faf  her.  Some  of  them  pre- 
tend to  fee  vilions,  and  to  converfe  with  the  Deity, 
while  others  are  fuppofed  to  work  miracles.  Being 
with  Seedy  Muftafa,  the  caliph  of  the  weftcrn  p-ro- 
vince,  he  told  me,  in  tlic  prcfence  of  a  number  of 
Arabian  flieiks,  who  vouched  for  the  fad,  that  a 
neighbouring  Marabutt  had  a  foJid  iron  bar,  which, 
upon  command,  would  give  the  lame  report,  and  do 
as  much  execution  as  a  piece  of  cannon  -,  and  that 
once  the  whale  Aigerine  army,  on  demanding  too 
exorbitant  a  tax  from  the  Arabs  under  his  proteftion. 
Were  put  to  flight  by  the  miracle.  Yet,  nocwith- 
ftanriing  the  frequency,  as  they  pretended,  of  the 
experiment,  all  the  m^rit  I  urged,  of  convincing 
a  Clirirtian,  and  the  folicitations  of  the  company, 
the  Marabutt  had  too  much  policy  to  luzard  his 
reputation  by  putting  it  to  the  proof.  At  Seteef 
1  faw  a  Marabutt  famous  for  vomiting  fire;  but 
though  I  was  at  firlt  much  furpriil'd  at  feeing  his 
mouth  fuddenly  in  a  blaze,  and  at  the  violent  ago- 
nies he  counterfeired  at  the  fame  time,  I  afterward 
plainly  perceived  that  it  was  all  a  trick  1  and  that  the 
Bames  and  Imoke  with  which  he  was  furroundcd,  arofc 
from  fome  tow  and  fulphur  which  he  contrived  to  fct 
on  fire  under  his  burnoofe. 

The  method  of  building,  both  in  Barbary  and  the* 
Levant,  feems  to  have  continued  the  fame  without 


:?_  7-T     iHAWs  TRAVELS 

— -  .--— ~  -r  r-.%r  :£*  nwft  mHt  ages.  Their 
-.■^■=;  -  rr^-:  :■-:  t-rp  -^^hh  !:at  roots,  furround- 
.-:  .  ".-r  ■=■>:■■;  i'-.-?  tS; T  ^-f  crnamenied.  In- 
.•;  -■-  :'T  'rrrf.  '::.-^!  c-i-'xTS,  marble  pavc- 
r.-.-.  ::--'Ti-^i  ~:<.-'.-,  *-'.:'.\  ibunuins  fomeiimes 
■  -  r':-  -■  z  ''.  in  well  adapted  to  the  Iieat  of 

;■'.-  r:-r^  >"  rhtf  Bedoweens  are  (rf"  an  oblong 
i-,— .  —;■->-  'c  tht  hull  of  a  fliip  turned  upfide 
J-^T-,  :  -.:  -■"  *v^"-'"'"  ^^itli  a  coarfe  hair-cloth  They 
^i.-  .  -.;  -  .■  ;:yor::in  to  the  number  of  i  ?rfons 
^  ^^■.  ,-  -  "tr:-.  ar;J  ?.re  accordingly  fupported, 
^^^  ,■  r-  ."v  -  :'.:  oji'r.i  or  ten  feet  high,  and  o:hcrs 
^™  .  -v:-  .•-  .h  or  or  the  liimc  length,  while  a  cur- 
t*  -  ,Y  ,~i-.v:  I'ii.'cd  upon  occafion  at  each  of  ihefe 
V^.  .v  "^  ■';W-"-J«*  the  whole  into  fevcral  apartments, 
^v  .  "-'  V'  :v «  Nrin^  covered  with  hooks,  the  Arabs 
^'t  ■■■-  ;.-.«  :'ie!R  :heir  cloiths,  fiddles,  bafkets,  and 
,. .,  ■"  .-ii-xr^^  of  »  Mr.  They  take  their  reft  by  lying 
"  "ys-  1  r..'  .^f"  «.-i  per,  ttitJiout  a  bed,  matrefs  or  pil- 
,.^  j.^  ^v:  .  w;ip.-o.l  up  in  their  hykcs.  When 
»i:  V-c  4  »  .m:vS.-.-  ot  thefe  tents  tog.th-^r.  r.nd  I 
-  .  ■;(.-:  ':-'^'  :!i^'^  to  thn?e  hundred,  they  are  ii>u- 
r*.  .-^s-.-v    ^i-;'^"f*  ind  in  the  night  ■■;;  cattle  are 

.,^^.     .  :i.-  .iriu   \r.  the  midijle,  to  fecurc  them 

,''^,'  '  V-  «,  ,•   :v:'.':s.     The  dckription  Virgil  has 

.^^  .    ".■  •■.■^v  ex  living  and  di'camping,  is 

*  '    ■■.4      '..k  •.  -t'  I  >■■■*  obfervjtions  were  but  lardy 

"'*^-  .,       V  ;iK*  "i*"'^"^'*  f'^'  the  Eedoweens  we  arc 

V-  .V  *    i   ■.;■*  of  the  K.iliyles,  which  con- 

■"'^    "*  \    ■,\.  .■;  ^-oti-tfic-*,  railed  either  with  hur- 

.^     _.vv     rt  :''•   i'.n^*-U  ■w'i^h  the  materials  of 

""     '      ^  '^    o:-  w::h  r.:ujre  cakes  of  clay 

'  ^.   .1     wS  U-  the  roots  are  covered  with 

..  ■  w  ;'.\!  t*v  reeds  or  the  branches  of 

,    i.  .  o.:*  .iiore  than  one  room  in  the 


largeft 


through  BAR  BAR  Y.  28g 

largeft  of  ihem,  which  noc  only  fcrves  for  a  kitchen, 
dining-raom,  and  bed-chamber ;  but  one  corner  of 
il  is  rclerved  for  die  calves,  foals,  and  kids. 

In  thefe  huts  die  women  make  iheir  blankets  called 
hykes,  and  the  goal's  hair  clotli  for  their  tents  -,  wcavr 
ing  them  not  with  a  fiiutile,  but  conducing  every 
thread  of  the  woof  with  thtir  fingers. 

One  principal  branch  of  the  manufaftures  and  trade 
of  thefe  countries,  is  that  of  carpets.  Theic  are  made 
of  coarfer  materials,  and  are  not  lb  beautifully  dcfign- 
ed  as  thofe  in  Turkey  ;  but  being  fofter  and  cheaper, 
they  are  preferred  by  thefe  people  to  lie  upon.  Both 
at  Algiers  and  Tunis  are  looms  for  velvet,  taffcties, 
and  fcveral  kinds  of  wrought  filks.  Over  all  thefe 
kingdoms  is  made  a  coarle  fort  of  linen  ;  but  that 
made  at  Sufa  is  the  finell.  The  greatell  part  of  thefe 
manufafturcs  isconfumedat  homei  butfomeoftliem 
are  fo  inconfiderable,  particularly  the  filk  and  linen^ 
that  the  deficiencies  are  frequenily  made  up  from  Ku-. 
rope.  Indeed  thefe  parts  of  Barbary  ftnd.  very  few 
of  their  commodities  to  market. 

The  cultivated  parts  of  thefe  kingdoms  enjoy  ^ 
very  wholefome  air,  neither  too  hot  and  fultry  in.fniQf  , 
oier,  nor  too  (harp  and  cold  in  winter.     For  duriii{|a 
the  fpate  of  twelve  years,  in  wliich   1   attended  th|^1 
factory    at  Algiers,    the    ihermoQieter    funk    oni||| 
twice  to  die  freezing  point,  and  then  the  whole  coupel 
try  was  covered  with  fnow.     The  fcafons  inienfibffj 
fall  into  each  other ;  and  the  extraordinary  equabilittfj 
in  the  temperature  of  the  cliniafe  appears  from  tlu^l 
barometer's  Ihewing  ail  ihc  rc/clutions  of  the  wc*»  i 
ther  in  the  fpace  of  an  inch  and  a  half.     In  this  cli-  ' 
marc  rain  is  kldom  known  to  fall  in  the  fummer  fea- 
ibn;  and  in   moll  parts  of  the  Sahara,  particularly 
thofe  of  Jcretd,  there  is  rarely  any  rain  at  al]. 

When  1  was  at  Tozcr,  in  December  1727,  we 
had  a  fiiiall  drizling  rain,  (hat  lafted  iwo  hours  on 
which  fcvrral  of  the  houfcs,  which,  as  ufual,  were 
only  built  of  palm  branches,  and  tiles  baked  in  the 


iU       Dr-  shaws  travels 

any  alteration,  from  the  moft  early- ages.  Their 
houfes  ar=  fquare  buildings  with  flat  rooft,  furround- 
ing  a  court,  where  alone  they  are  ornamented.  In- 
deed, hrge  doors,  fpacious  chambers,  marble  pave- 
ments, cloyftered  courts,  with  fountains  fomctimes 
playing  in  the  midfl:,  are  welt  adapted  to  the  heat  of 
the  climate*. 

The  tents  of  the  Bedoweens  are  of  an  oblong 
figure,  refetnbling  the  hull  of  a  Ihip  turned  upfide 
down,  and  are  covered  with  a  coarfe  hair-cloth.  They 
differ  in  fizc  in  proportion  lo  the  number  of  perfons 
who  live  in  them,  and  are  accordingly  fupported, 
fome  with  one  pole  ciglit  or  ten  feet  high,  and  others 
with  two  or  three  of  the  fame  length,  while  a  car- 
ton or  carpet  placed  upon  occafwrn  at  each  of  thefe 
dtvirions,  fcparates  the  whole  into  fevcral  apartments, 
and  thefe  poles  being  covered  with  hooks,  the  Arabs 
hang  upon  them  iheir  cloaths,  faddles,  bafkets,  and 
accoutrexnents  of  war.  They  take  their  reft  by  lying 
upon  a  mat  or  carpet,  without  a  bed,  matrels  or  pil- 
low, and  only  wrapped  up  in  their  hykcs.  'When 
we  find  any  number  of  thefe  tents  together,  and  I 
have  feen  fmm  three  to  three  hundred,  they  are  ul'u- 
ally  placed  in  a  circle  ;  and  in  the  night  the  cattle  are 
inclofed  in  the  area  in  the  middle,  to  lecure  them 
from  the  wild  beafts.  The  dcfcription  Virgil  has 
given  of  their  manner  of  living  and  decamping,  is 
as  juftly  drawn,  as  if  his  obfervations  were  but  lately 
made. 

From  the  encampments  of  the  Bedoweens  we  are 
to  proctrcd  to  the  vill.igcsof  the  Kabyles,  which  con- 
fid  of  a  number  of  cottages,  raifcd  either  with  hur- 
dles daubed  over  with  mud,  with  the  materials  (rf 
fome  a-.ricnt  ruins,  or  with  fquare  cakes  of  clay 
baked  in  the  fun ;  while  the  roofs  are  covered  with 
ftraw  or  turf,  fupported  by  reeds  or  the  branches  of 
trees.     There  ia  Icidom  more  than  one  room  in  tha 

*  Ste  ilie  defcriptioni  aliead/  given  fiom  TbeTcnot,  Ladf  Mm- 
taguc,  and  Pococke. 

krgeft 


through  BARBARY.  185 

hrgeft  of  them,  which  not  only  ferres  for  a  kitchen, 
dining-room,  and  bed-chamber  ^  but  one  corner  of 
it  is  Tcferved  for  the  calves,  foals,  and  kids. 

In  thefe  huts  the  women  make  their  blankets  called 
hykes,  and  the  goat's  hair  cloth  for  their  tents  -,  weav- 
ing them  not  with  a  fhutde,  but  conducting  every 
thread  of  the  woof  with  their  fingers. 

One  principal  branch  of  the  manufaflurcsand  trade 
of  thefe  countries,  is  that  of  carpets.  Thefe  are  made 
of  coarfcr  materials,  and  are  not  lb  beautitully  dcfign- 
cd  as  tiiofe  in  Turkey  -,  but  being  fofter  and  cheaper, 
ihey  arc  preferred  by  thefe  people  to  lie  upon.  Both 
at  Algiers  and  Tunis  are  looms  tor  velvet,  taffcties, 
and  fevcral  kinds  of  wrought  filks.  Over  all  thefc 
kingdoms  is  made  a  coarfc  fort  of  linen  1  but  that 
made  at  Sufa  is  the  fineil.  The  greateli  part  of  thefe 
manufadtures  is  confuraed  at  home  j  but  fome  of  tlicm 
are  fo  inconfidcrable,  particularly  the  filk  and  Hnen, 
that  the  deficiencies  are  frequently  made  up  from  Eu- 
rope, indeed  thefe  parts  of  Barbary  fend  very  ieyt 
of  their  commodities  to  market. 

The  cultivated  p^rts  of  thefe  kingdoms  enjoy  a 
very  wholefome  air,  neither  too  hot  and  liiitry  in.fiim-i 
mcr,  rwjr  too  (harp  and  cold  in  winter.  For  during 
the  fpate  of  twelve  years,  in  wliich  1  attended  the 
fidory  at  Algiers,  the  thermometer  funk  only 
twice  to  tlic  freezing  point,  and  then  the  whole  coun- 
try was  covered  with  fnow.  The  feafons  infenfibly 
fall  into  each  other  ;  and  the  extraordinary  equability 
in  the  temperature  of  the  climate  appears  from  the 
barometLT's  fliewing  all  itic  resolutions  of  the  wea- 
ther in  the  fpace  of  an  inch  and  a  half.  In  this  cli- 
mate rain  is  feidom  known  Co  fall  in  the  fummer  fea- 
fon ;  and  in  moft  parts  of  the  Sahara,  particularly 
thofe  of  Jerced,  there  is  rarely  any  rain  at  all. 

When  1  was  at  Tozer,  in  Uccembcr  1727,  we 
had  a  fmall  drizling  rain,  that  lafted  two  hours,  on 
which  feveral  of  the  houfes,  which,  i^  uliial,  were 
only  built  of  palm  branches,  and  tiles  baked  in  the 

fun. 


tS6  Dr.   SHAWs  THAVeLS 

fun,  fell  down  by  imbibing  tbfr  motfture ;  and  had 
the  cir-ips  been  either  larger,  or  the  fhower  of  a  longer 
contiiiuutce,  the  whole  city  would  doubklefs  have 
diflblved  and  dropt  to  pieces.  In  the  other  parts, 
the  firit  rains  fall  in  September  and  Oftobcr,  after 
which  the  Arabs  break  up  the  ground,  and  b^n  to 
fow  whca.c,  and  plant  beans.  Sec.  If  the  latter  rains 
fall  in  the  middle  of  April,  as  they  ufually  do,  the 
crop  is  reckoned  fecure;  the  harveft  following  in  the 
latcer  end  of  May,  or  the  beginning  of  June. 

The  country  produces  fevera]  kinds  6f  grain,  be- 
fide  all  thofe  of  Europe,  except  oats ;  particularly 
rice  and  a  white  fort  of  miller,  with  forftc  forts  of 
pulfe  unknown  in  England.  I'he  Moors  and  Arubs 
ftill  continue  to  follow  the  primitive  cufiom  of  the 
Eaft  in  treading  out  their  corn,  which  is  a  quicker  but 
lels  cleanly  method  than  ours  :  for  this  being  done 
upon  a  level  piece  of  ground,  only  daubed  over  with 
cow-dung,  a  great  deal  of  earth  and  gravel  muft  un-- 
avoidably  be  gathered  up  with  the  grain ;  befide,  all 
the  ftraw  is  broke  to  pieces.  After  the  grain  is  trod- 
den out,  it  is  only  winnowed,  by  throwing  it  inR> 
the  wind  with  (hovels ;  it  is  then  lodged  in  (ubtcrra- 
neous  magazines,  two  or  three  hundred  oF  which  I 
have  fometimes  feen  together,  and  the  fmalleft  of 
them  would  contain  four  hundred  bufhcls. 

Provifions  of  all  kinds  are  fold  cxtreamTy  cheapo 
You  may  have  a  large  piece  of  bread,  a  bundle  of 
turnips,  or  a  fmall  bafl^et  of  fruit,  for  the  696  part 
of  a  dollar,  of  ^s.  6d.  of  our  money.  Fowl*  are 
frequently  bought  for  three  half-pence  afMCCCi  a 
jhccp  for  3  s.  6d.  arid  a  cow  and  a  calf  for  a  guinea. 
It  is  happy  for  theie  people,  that  one  year  with  an- 
ottier  they  can  have  a  bulhel  of  the  beft  wheat  for 
fifteen  or  eighteen  pence :  for  the  inhabitants  of  thefe 
countries,  as  well  as  the  eaftern  nations  in  general, 
arc  great  eaters  of  bread  •,  three  perfons  in  four  living 
entirely  upon  it,  or  upon  fuch  comnoTitions  as  are 
made  of  wheat  and  barley  flour. 

In 


In  cities  and  villages  ihe  bread  is  ufualiy  leivened 
and  baked  in  public  ovens  -,  but  among  the  Bcdo- 
wecns,  tiie  dough  is  no  fooner  kneaded  than  it: 
is  made  into  tliin  cakes,  which  are  either  im- 
mediately baked  on  the  coals»  or  fiycd  io  a  pan  with 
butter. 

All  the  fruits  of  Europe,  beftde  thofe  found  in 
Egypt,  are  produced  here,  except  the  hazel-nut,  the 
filbert,  the  goofeberry  and  currant-tree.  But  chdr 
gardens  arc  laid  out  without  method  Mid  deftgn,  and 
are  a  confufed  medley  of  trees,  with  beds  of  cab- 
bages, turnips,  beans,  and  Ibmccimcs  of  wheat  and 
barley  dilpcrfed  among  them,  l-ine  walks,  and 
parterres,  they  would  conflder  as  the  iols  of  fo  much 
foil  i  and  the  lludy  of  new  improvements,  they  would 
regard  as  fo  many  deviations  from  the  practice  of 
their  anceftors,  which  they  follow  with  the  utmoit 
reverence. 

Lead  and  iron  are  the  only  metals  difcovered  in 
ihefc  countries.  The  latter  is  white  and  good,  thmigJi  . 
in  no  great  quantity  j  it  being  dug  and  forged  by  the 
Kabyle3  in  the  mountainous  dillricl  of  Boujciah,  and 
brought  in  fliort  bars  to  the  market  of  Algiers.  It 
will  not  be  improper  to  relate  here  the  ftory  the  peo- 
ple tell  of  the  plough-lbares  of  Maiiomct  bey  of 
Tunis.  This  pcrlon  had  the  misfomine  to  be  de- 
throned by  his  fubjcifts  ;  but  having  the  reputation 
of  being  acquainted  with  the  philolupher's  ftone, 
Ibrahim  Hojiah,  dey  of  Algiers,  engaged  to  reftore 
him  to  his  former  dignity,  upon  promife  of  being 
let  into  llie  fecret.  1  he  affair  was  accordingly  agreed 
upon,  and  Mahomet  was  rellored  ;  when  ta  fuilil  his 
protnile,  he  lent  the  dey  of  Algiers,  with  great  pomp 
and  ceremony,  a  number  of  mattocks  and  plough- 
Ihares  :  thus  emblematically  inftruding  him,  that  the 
wealth  of  his  kingdom  was  to  arife  trom  a  diligent 
attendance  upon  agriculture  and  hutbandry ;  and  that 
the  only  philolophei's  Hone  he  could  :uquaint  htm 
"'  2  with, 


a88         Dr.  SHAW'S  TRAVELS 

with,  was  the  art  of  convening  a  good  crop  into 
gold. 

The  beafls  of  burden  in  this  country  are  camels,  A 
few  dromedaries ;  horfes,  which  of  late  years  have 
much  degenerated  in  this  country  ^  afTes,  mules,  and 
a  creature  called  tlie  Kumrah,  a  little  ferviceablc  beaft 
of  burden,  begot  between  an  afs  and  a  cow.  That 
which  I  faw  was  fingle  hoofeci  like  the  als,  but  difle- 
icnt  from  it  in  every  other  refpeft,  having  a  flecker 
fkin,  and  a  tail  and  head,  though  without  horns,  re- 
fembling  the  dam's. 

The  black  cattle  are  fm^l,  (lender,  and  afibrd  but 
little  milk!  Abdy  balTa,  the  late  dey  o£  Algiers^ 
and  all  his  minifters,  were  greatly  furprifcd,  when 
admiral  Cavendilh,  a  few  years  ago,  told  him,  that 
he  had  a  Hampfhire  cow  aboard  the  Canterbury^ 
then  in  the  road  of  Algiers,  that  gave  a  gallon  of 
milk  a  day,  which  is  as  much  as  half  a  dozen  of  the 
belt  Barbary  cows  could  yield  in  the  fame  time :  be- 
^_pf>f,  the  Barbary  cattle  always  lofe  their  calves  and 
their  milk  together. 

The  Ihcep  and  goats  alfo  help  to  fupply  the  dairies, 
the  cheefe  being  chicHy  made  of  their  milk.  Inftead 
of  rennet,  they  in  fummer  make  ufe  of  the  flowers  of  the 
great  headed  thillle,  or  wild  artichoak,  to  tum  the 
milk  ;  putting  the  curds  thus  made  into  fmall  bafkets 
of  nifhes  orpalmetta,  and  afterward  binding  and  pref* 
ling  them.  Thcfe  cheefes  arc  ufually  of  the  Ibape 
and  fize  of  a  penny  loaf.  Their  butter  is  neither  of 
fuch  fubftance,  nor  of  To  rich  a  rafte  as  ours :  their 
only  method  of  making  it,  is  by  putting  their  cream 
into  a  goat's  fkin,  which  being  fufpen^d  from  CHie 
fide  of  the  tent  to  the  other,  uid  preflcd  to  and  fro 
•  in  one  uniform  direftion,  foon  occafions  the  fepart- 
lion  of  the  butter  from  the  whey. 

The  (heep  here  are  of  two  forts ;  one  of  them  conv 
mon  all  over  the  Levant,  as  well  as  in  the  kingdom 
of  Tunis,  is  diftinguilhed  by  its  having  a  large  broad 

tail. 


through  BAR  BAR  Y.  289 

tail,  which  confifts  of  hard  folid  fat,  not  inferior  ro 
marrow  ;  but  the  flefli  of  this  flieep  generaity  taftes 
6f  the  wool,  and  has  not  the  tender  fibres  of  the 
fmallcr  tailed  (heep.  Thofe  of  the  other  fpccics  are 
nearly  as  tall  as  our  fallow  deer,  and  excepting  the 
head,  arc  noc  much  different  in  (hape  ;  but  their  llelh 
is  dry,  and  their  fleeces  as  coarl'c  and  hairy  as  the 
goats.  The  Arabs  fcldom  kill  any  of  iheir  flocks ; 
lor  they  live  chiefly  upon  the  milk  and  butter,  or 
Upon  what  they  get  in  exchinge  for  wool.  The  num- 
ber of  cattle  likewife  brought  to  the  neighbouring 
towns  and  villages,  is  alio  very  inconfiderable,  when 
Compared  with  the  yearly  breed  ;  fo  that  the  ftock  of 
cattle  is  continually  cncreafing. 

Among  the  ravenous  bcatls  are  the  lion  and  the 
panther ;  but  the  tyger  is  not  a  native  of  this  part  of 
Barbary.  Fire  is  what  they  are  moll  afraid  of;  and 
yet,  noiwithftanding  all  the  precaution 5  of  the  Arabs 
in  this  refpeA,  together  with  the  barking  of  their 
dogs  all  the  night  long,  thefc  revenous  beafts  fre- 
quently ouc-br.wihg  thcic  terrors,  will  leap  into  the 
midft  of  the  circle  inciofed  by  i he  tents,  and  bring 
out  alive  with  them  a  fheep  or  a  goat.  If  ihefe  rava- 
ges arc  repeated,  the  Arabs  oblerving  where  they 
enter,  dig  a  pit  and  cover  it  over  (lighcly  with  reeds, 
or  fmall  branches  of  trees,  frequently  catch  them, 
and  feed  on  their  flelh,  which  is  much  e(^eemed,  it 
having  the  taftc  of  veal.  After  the  lion  and  panther 
the  dubbah  is  the  ficrceft  of  the  wild  beafts  of  Bar- 
bary. It  is  of  the  fize  of  a  wolf,  but  has  a  flatter 
body  i  it  naturally  limps  upon  its  hinder  right  Ifg, 
yet  is  tolerably  fwift.  Its  neck  is  fo  IlifF,  that  in 
looking  behind,  or  Inatching  obliquely  at  any  objedt, 
it  is  obliged  to  move  its  whole  body.  It  is  of  a  red- 
difh  buR^",  or  dun  colour,  witli  fome  tranfvcrle  (ireaks 
of  a  dark  brown  :  it  has  a  mane  near  a  fpan  It'ng, 
and  the  feet,  wliich  are  well  armed  with  daws,  fcrve 
to  dig  tip  tile  roots  of  plants,  and  fometimes  tiw 
graves  of  the  dead. 

Vol.  \'1,  Ij  The 


290  Dr.  SHAWs   TRAVELS. 

■  The  faadh  is  fpottcd  like  the  leopard,  but  the  fklri 
is  coarler  and  of  a  deeper  colour,  and  the  animat  is 
not  of  fo  fierce  a  nature.  1  he  Arabs  imagine  ir  be- 
got by  a  lion  'on  a  leopardefs.  There  are  afo  two 
other  animals  marked  like  the  leopard,  but  their 
fpots  are  generally  of  a  darker  colour,  and  tiie  fur 
ibmewhat  longer  and  foftcr. 

The  jackall,  and  an  animal  called  the  Black-eared 
Cat,  are  both  fuppofcd  to  find  out  prey  for  the  lion* 
and  are  therefore  each  called  the  Jion's  provider  j 
though  it  may  be  much  doubted,  whether  there  be 
any  fuch  friendly  intercourft;  between  two  fuch  diffe- 
rent animals.  In  the  night-time,  indeed,  thefe,  with 
other  kinds,  are  prowling  in  fearch  of  prey  5  and  in 
the  morning,  they,  have  ofccn  been  feen  knawing 
fuch  carcafics,  as  the  lion  is  fuppofcd  to  have  fed 
upon  the  night  before.  This,  and  the  promifcuous 
noife  I  have  frequently  heard  the  jackall  at  leaft  make 
with  the  lion,  arc  the  only  circumftances  1  atn.ac- 
quainted  with  in  fa\'our  of  this  opinion.  The  lion  is 
fuppofed  to  feed  chiefly  on  the  wild  boar  ;  but  that 
animal  Ibmetimes  defends  itfelf  with  fuch  courage, 
that  the  carcalfes  of  both  liave  been  found  lying 
dead  together,  covered  with  blood,  and  dreadfully 
mangled. 

Bclide  thefe,  and  fome  other  creatures  not  common 
in  other  places,  there  are  in  Barbary,  bears,  apes, 
hares,  rabbits,  ferrets,  wecTels,  moles,  porcupines* 
and  foxes  *,  canickons,  and  fevcral  kinds  of  lizards. 


[    »9»    1 


JOURNEY 


M    E   Q^U    I    N    E   Zj 

^y  Mr.  W  i  N  D  U  S,   a  Gentleman  in  the 

iletinuc  of  Charles  Stewart,  Efq-,  Am- 

bailador  to  the  Emperor  of  Morocco. 

r'TH  H  E  kingdoms  of  Fez  and  Morocco,  which 
L  J.  now  compofe  one  empire,  were  once  a  part  of 
the  aniient  Mauritania,  and  are  fituated  on  the  moft 
wcftcrn  borders  of  Barbary.  They  are  bounded  on 
that  fide  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean  ;  on  the  eaft  by  the 
river  Mulvya,  which  feparaies  them  from  Algiers; 
on  the  north  by  the  Streights  of  Gibraltar  and  the 
Mediterranean  fea  •,  and  on  the  fouth  by  the  river 
Sus,  which  divides  Morocco  from  the  province  of 
Derha,  and  by  part  of  the  kingdom  of  Tafilei :  the 
whole  empire  extending  from  28°  to  36"  rorch  lati- 
tude, and  from  4"  to  1 1**  weft  longitude  from  Lon- 
don. Its  greateft  length,  in  a  diret^l:  line  from  nortii 
to  fouth,  is  above  500  miles,  but  in  brejd:h  it  does 
not  much  exceed  260. 

Each  of  thcfe  kingdoms  ftill  ret-iins  its  anticnt 
pame,  though  both  ihc  empire  and  the  emperors  arc 
chiefly  called  by  that  of  Morocco,  whifli  is  dn.'  motl 
conCdcrable. 

U  2  Till. 


292  WINDUS's  JOURNEt 

This  empire,  or  kingdom,  is  thrown  into  three 
grand  divifion::,  Fez,  Morocco  Proper,  and  Sus ; 
bcfide  the  kingdom  of  Tafilet  and  the  large  province 
of  Gefula,  both  which  arc  fubjeift  to  the  emperor. 

The  cHmatc  is  atmofl;  every  where  hot,  and  much 
more  fo  to  the  fouth,  yet  it  is  generally  healthier  than 
that  of  Algiers  or  Tunis,  it  being  pleafantiy  divcrfi- 
fied,  and  the  air  rendered  more  moderate  by  its  moun- 
tains and  plains,  and  cooled  by  fea-brcezes  from  the 
Atlantic  Ocean.  We  fhall  now  attend  to  Mr.  Windus.] 

The  honourable  Charles  Stewart,  Efq;  being  fent 
to  treat  of  a  peace  with  the  emperor  of  Morocco, 
landed  in  the  bay  of  Tetuan  on  the  6th  of  May, 
1720,  at  about  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning;  when 
we  found  a  fufficicnt  number  of  tents  pitched  for  our 
conveniency,  and  among  them  a  fine  large  one,  which 
the  ambaOador  made  choice  of  to  eat  in  oil  his  jour- 
ney. Ourfirft  entertainment  was  in  this  tent,  where 
they  brought  plenty  of  cufcufu,  fowls,  and  a  fheep 
roafted  whole  upon  a  great  wooden  fpit,  which  thej^ 
fet  upon  the  table,  fpit  and  all.  Between  three  and 
foiir  o'clock  the  baffli  came  down,  attended  by  aboul! 
200  horfe  and  300  foot,  who  having  entered  the  camp 
firing  nnd  cavalcading,  threw  themfelves  into  the 
form  of  an  half-moon  before  our  tent,  where  we  had 
the  divtrfion  of  feeing  them  exercile  above  an  hour. 
This  ihey  performed  with  great  aftivity  j  the  balEi 
and  his  broilicr  often  heading  parties  of  horfe,  who 
;'.I1  together  clapping  their  fpurs  to  their  hoiTes  fides, 
levelled  their  pieces  and  fired  at  each  other,  as  if 
they  were  attacking  an  enemy.  After  this  they  t<K>k 
their  fpears  and  fingled  out  each  other  to  tilt,  deittcr- 
cudy  puting  by  the  thruftof  the  fpear,  though  madt 
at  tiieir  batks,  while  their  horfes  were  on  fuU  foeed. 
Me^n  wliile  the  foot  kept  a  continual  irregular  firing, 
every  njLin  cliarging  his  piece,  and  firing  into  tw 
groiiml  as  fait  as  he  could.  Their  drums  made  4 
\\ar;il:i.' (biiinl,  and  were  beaten  with  a  heavy  ffick 


TO  MEQUINEZ.  ^3 

on  the  top,  and  a  fmall  one  at  the  boitom,  keeping 
time  to  a  pipe,  that  had  fome  refemblance  to  a  fife, 
and  founded  very  loud  and  ihrill.  The  cavalcade 
being  over,  the  balTa  welcomed  the  ambaflador  to 
Barbary,  and  invited  him  to  his  tent,  where  he  told  him 
that  he  would  do  all  in  his  power  to  render  the  coun- 
try agreeable  to  him  :  that  he  liked  the  Hnglifh  better 
than  any  other  Chrillian  nation  ;  and  fome  other  com- 
pliments having  pafled  between  them,  they  parted. 

The  next  morning  the  ambalTador  vifited  ihe  balTa 
at  his  tent,  who  having  renewed  his  compliments,  a 
row  of  fine  horfes  were  drawn  up,  which  made  a  noble 
appearance,  many  of  their  faddlcs  being  entirely  cover- 
ed with  plate  ;  the  baffa  then  politely  delired  the  am- 
baflador to  take  which  he  liked  bell:  which  having  done, 
^ach  of  us  chofe  for  ourfelves,  and  then  fct  forward. 

The  Moors  almoft  all  the  way  to  Tetuan,  which 
is  about  fix  miles,  continued  firing  and  cavalcading. 
On  our  entering  the  town,  we  were  received  by  great 
.crouds  of  people  Ihouting,  and  the  women  all  in 
white,  and  muffled  up  fo  thai  no  part  of  them  could 
be  feen  but  their  eyes,  were  prclled  together  upon 
ihc  tops  of  the  houfes  as  thick  as  they  could  (land. 
The  bafla  drew  up  his  people  in  a  large  fquare  before 
his  houfe,  where  he  and  his  brothers,  finely  mounted, 
Jhewed  us  again  their  dexterity  at  the  fpear,  tilting, 
and  fomctimcs  darting  their  lances  into  the  air  before 
them,  and  catching  them  again  with  their  horfes  on 
full  fpeed.  The  ambaflador  was  then  condu£ted  to 
the  houfe  allotted  for  him,  which  was  one  of  the 
beft  in  Tetuan,  and  a  liable  of  horfes  was  appointed 
for  his  ufe,  and  that  of  his  retinue. 

On  the  8th,  the  ambaflTador  paid  a  vifit  to  the  baf- 
fa,  who  received  him  in  an  outer  room,  built  long 
and  narrow,  like  moft  of  the  rooms  in  Barbary, 
There  were  two  chairs  placed  oppofite  to  each  other, 
io  which  the  ambafllidor  and  bafla  f.it  down,  and 
talked  about  an  hour  and  a  half;  during  which, 
eight  or  ten  of  the  principal  Moors  in  the  town  flood 
U  3     behind 


294  WINDUS's  JOURKEY 

behind  the  bafla.  The  conference  being  over,  we. 
were  ftjcwn  the  bafla's  gardens  and  ftables. 

On  the  15th  we  dined  in  a  garden  which  the  bafla 
had  lately  pjanted  about  three  miles  from  Tetuan.' 
It  is  (ituatcd  in  a  pleafant  valley,  almofl  furrounded 
with  hills  and  mountains,  which  being  ^rcen  and 
woody,  afford  on  every  fide  a  moil  delightful  profpcft. 
A  Itrcam  runs  through  the  garden,  which  with  great 
labour  was  conveyed  thither  from  an  adjacent  moun- 
tain. The  governor  of  'i'etuan,  who  was  one  of  the 
bafla's  brothers,  cjinc  jnlt  alter  dinner,  and  walking 
with  us,  was  fo  coinplailant,  as  to  gather,  and  give 
us  tlie  beft  fruit.  The  walks  arc  feparated  by  cane- 
work,  and  tiicre  is  a  handlumc  arbour  of  the  fame 
niatei'ials,  in  wlrch  is  a  bafon  fiipplied  with  water 
iVom  the  above  ftri-am,  which  the  ambaflador  filled 
with  punch  -,  but  )[  was  with  fome  difficulty  he  per- 
fuaded  the  govcnmr  to  drink  two  or  three  glalles. 
This  arbour  wcs  rendered  very  delightful  by  a 
great  number  of  carnations  growing  through  the 
cane-work,  and  in  at  the  windows.  The  gover- 
n.ir  was  attended  by  his  mufic,  which  confifted 
of  two  perfons  playing  on  fmall  inftruments,  after  the, 
mannLT  of  vii^lins  :  one  had  a  piece  of  parchment 
tirawn  tight  over  a  fmall  hoop,  with  pieces  of  loole 
tin  on  the  licics,  which  he  fliook  with  one  hand,  while 
he  drunimcd  on  it  with  the  other  ;  and  another  per- 
foa  bi-at  time  to  tl'cir  mufic,  by  flriking  the  palms 
of  bis  hands  to^rnhcr,  very  loud,  and  with  great 
di:':tL';ify.  This  part  of  the  country  abounds  with 
fine  onnpcs,  Itmons,  citrons,  grapes,  apricots, 
pomcgran-itts,  melons,  figs  and  olives. 

On  the  ioth  w-e  went  with  the  baflfa  to  hunt  the 
wild  bnar,  in  tiie  mountains  between  Tetuan  snd 
Terra,  when  we  killed  fix,  and  took  three  young  ones 
alive.  Tiie  t'jxars  utal  by  the  foot  are  not  above 
h.:if  a'  hTp-  js  Lhofc  carried  by  the  horfe  j  they  are 
rr^'!'.'  of  a  heavy  and  tough  wood,  with  the  blade 
■  hbrcx  r.d:  a  y^rd  long,  and  very  tliick,  to  prevent  their 

break- 


^^S?a! 


'alung. 
armed, 


TO   MEQUINEZ.  295 

A  great  number  of  foot  went  with  us  thus 


who  getting  upon  the  hills,  by  their  (hout- 
lod  the  boars  from  the  woods  and  thickets, 
and  brought  them  in  view  for  the  chace.  If  one  of 
rhcle  men  is  attacked  by  a  boar,  he  does  not  (hew 
the  leaft  fi^n  of  fear  1  but  putting  himfelf  in  as  fii'nl 
a  podure  as  he  can,  he  receives  the  bflar  on  his  fpear, 
who  goars  himfelf  up  tcj  tlie  end  of  the  blade,  where 
an  iron  goes  acrofs  to  ftop  the  fpcar  from  running 
through,  otherwifc  the  bo^r  prefTing  00,  would  reach 
the  man,  and  wound  him  with  his  tufks. 

Tetuan,  which  is  a  very  antieni  city,  was  called 
by  the  Romans  Teiuanum,  and  gives  name  to  a  large 
province.  It  is  Iituatcd  ac  the  opening  of  the  (treights 
into  the  Mcditcrrant^an,  upon  the  afceiit  of  a  rocky  hill 
between  two  high  mourji:.iin!i,  about  fix  miles  from 
the  fca  j  and  has  a  c.dtle  built  higher  on  the  hilt,  that 
has  a  full  command  of  the  town.  Throttgh  the  val- 
ley runs  a  little  river,  navigable  for  fmall  velTeU  a!a 
far  as  MaVtecn,  aplJte  about  two  miles  from  the  bay, 
where  they  load  and  unlo-id  thLir  goods. 

Teiuan  is  well  builr,  but  the  Rretts  arc  very  nar- 
row, and  there  are  harJIy  any  windows  to  be  feen, 
f  xccpt  little  hnles  [o  look  out  at ;  tl.e  !ii;ht  being  ad- 
mitted at  the  inlidc,  where  there  is  a  fqiare  court 
qpen  bC  ilie  top,  w  th  p;lUrs  l\ipporiin__i  galk-rits,  Jml 
painted, wooden  baluflrades.  I  he  houfes  are  i'lit  twS 
itories  hi^h,  except  the  bafla's  and  a  k-vv  oilicrs  be^ 
longing  to  particuhir  men.  They  are  Rji  Jt  the  lop, 
fp  tliat  ill  many  pbci-s  the  inhi\'jit4nt-  cin  v.ulk  a  great 
way  upon  them  ;  but  chofe  beiongiHi^  :o  the  Chi'ilHao 
merth^ncs  have  battlements,  to  lvi..p  [hem  wiLhin[|i( 
ilie  bounds  of  thcit  own  houfe* :  I'-jr  tli.'  MoorilK'" 
women  live  in  the  upper  apaMmem.;,  jt.d  oficn  vil«j 
ftue  another  from  the  tops  of  their  liiHlcs.  Thcj^ 
ate  white  wafhed  on  the  oucfide  as  well  .is  wjtluq, 
Which  renders  the  rcfiexu-n  of  the  fun  fo  briyhl,  s 
to  be  painful  tu  ihe  cys.  Their  walli  arc  iiui  r.iil'-<l 
U  +  by 


296         WINDUS's  JOURNEY 

by  laying  brick  or  ftone  even  upon  one  another ;  bu? 
they  make  a  ftrong  wooden  cafe,  into  which  they  caft 
the  mortar,  and  beating  it  down  hard,  take  the  cafe 
away  when  it  is  dry. 

The  (hops  are  very  fmall,  and  have  no  doors  -,  buf 
the  matter  having  opened  rhe  ftiutters,  jumps  in,  and 
fits  crofo-legged,  upon  a  place  ratfed  about  the  height 
of  a  ccunccT.  The  goods  arc  dilboftd  in  drawcrj 
round  about  him,  which  he  can  for  the  moft  part 
reach  without  moving  out  of  his  place ;  his  cuftomer? 
ftanding  in  the  (Irect  while  they  are  ferved. 

The  town  is  populous  and  healthful  ^  but  the  peo- 
ple are  poor,  and  pofTefs  nothing  but  at  the  pleuijre 
of  the  bafla ;  who  gives  or  takes  away  houfes,  lands, 
or  whatever  he  pleafcs.  Therefore,  when  a  man  by 
)iis  diligence  and  induftry  has  acquired  wealth,  he 
endeavours  to  conceal  it,  and  fcem  poor  j  for  if  it 
fliould  come  to  the  knowledge  of  the  bafla,  he  might 
throw  him  into  prifon,  and  caufe  him  to  be  baftina- 
docd  to  make  him  difcover  all  his  treafures. 

The  people  are  of  a  fwarthy  complexion,  Jnter- 
ipixcd  with  a  race  of  well-looking  men,  fomewhat 
fairer  than  the  reft  :  they  are  generally  lufty,  ftrong- 
limbed,  aftive,  laborious,  and  patient  of  labour  and 
fatigue,  ctiduring  with  furprifing  rcfolijtion  thcfaeats 
of  (ummer,  and  the  cold  rains  of  winter.  A  meflen- 
ger  will  go  from  Tetuan  to  Mequinez,  which  is  icp 
miles,  for  a  Barbary  ducat  i  and  in  the  midft  of  d 
ftorm  of  rain,  he  will  only  look  out  for  a  bulh  or 
high  ftone,  and  fitting  down  on  his  hams  with  his 
back  tow  aid  it,  remain  in  that  pofture  the  whole 
night :  or  if  the  weather  be  fair,  he  will  wrap  himfelf' 
in  his  cloaihs,  and  pafs  ihe  night  upon  thegrafs.  It 
is  faid  t!  zi  the  nicfl:  famous  footmen  of  the  country 
will  go  fixty  leagues  in  three  days.  They  fwim  the 
rivers  in  the  depth  of  winter,  if  not  deterred  by  the 
rapidity  of  the  current ;  and  for  a  journey  of  feven 
or  eight  days  carry  only  a  little  meal,  apd  a  few  raifins 
or  figs  in  a  fmall  goal's  ikin.  " '  ' ' 

They 


I 


TO   MEQjaiNEZ.  j^y 

'hey  have  no  fetiled  poll  in  the  country,  the  ordi- 
'  way  of  fending  letters  being  by  thcfe  footmen, 
'who  are  nearly  as  expeditious  as  horlfs.  Nor  have 
ihey  any  kind  of  wheel-carriage :  their  light  goods 
are  removed  from  place  to  place,  if  not  far,  upon 
horfcs  ;  but  when  they  have  great  quantities  either  of 
corn,  wax,  hides,  or  the  like,  and  go  far,  they  ufc 
camels. 

The  drefs  of  the  people  \$  not  ungraceful.  The 
men  wear  (hort  (hirts  with  very  troad  fieeves,  that 
Ibmecimes  hang  down,  but  are  mere  frequently  luck- 
ed up  to  keep  them  cool.  They  have  linen  breeches 
tied  about  iheir  waifts  next  the  fkin.  They  go  bare 
legged,  but  wear  flippers  of  red  or  yellow  leather, 
without  heels.  Over  their  ftiirt  they  wear  a  cloth 
vcft,  or  waiftcoat,  very  ihort,  and  made  to  fit  clofc 
to  the  body;  it  is  faftened  with  fmall  buttons  and 
loops  fet  clofe  together,  and  is  often  embroidered 
with  gold  or  filver  thread.  Round  the  wailt  tliey 
wear  a  fcarf  of  filk  or  ftuff,  in  which  they  ftick 
large  knives,  with  the  handles  either  of  fome  valu- 
able metal,  or  ivory  inlaid,  and  the  Iheaths  arc  lipt 
with  filver.  Their  outer  garment  is  either  the  al- 
hague,  or  albornooce  ;  the  former  is  a  piece  of  fine 
white  woollen  ftufF,  five  or  fix  yards  k>ng,  and  about 
one  and  a  half  broad,  which  they  wrap  round  theni 
above  and  below  their  arms.  This  drefs  rcfemblcs 
the  drapery  of  antique  figures :  the  albernooce  is 
either  made  of  cloth  or  woollen  ftuff  napt,  and  fome- 
what  refembles  a  lliort  cloak,  but  is  joined  a  little 
way  before  from  the  neck  downward,  having  two  or 
three  rorts  of  fliort  Ilripes  worked  in  the  ftufF,  and 
fringed  at  the  ends  for  ornament ;  the  bottom  and 
fides  are  edged  with  a  deep  fringe ;  and  behind  at 
the  neck  there  hangs  a  peaked  cowl,  with  a  taflel  at 
the  end,  which  they  can  cover  their  heads  with  to 
keep  off  the  weather.  On  their  heads,  which  they 
always  keep  fliaved,  they  wear  a  little  red  cap,  which 
""  :y  make  into  a  turbant  by  rolling  mullin  about  it ; 

but 


29?         WINDUS's  JOURNEY 

but  when  they  go  into  the  country,  they  wear  a 
tiandfome  cane-hac'to  keep  oft' i he  fun.  The  Al- 
caydes  liave  a  broad  leather  bclr,  embroidered  with 
golda  to  harg  rhcir  fcyniicars  in,  which  they  wear 
uv;r  their  fhuulder. 

The  Moors  in  genera!  are  drefHd  after  this  manner, 
without  any  other  diRcicnce  than  in  the  richncfs  and 
finencfs  of  iJic  ftiift's  ;  only  the  upper  garment  of  the 
poorefi:  fo'rt  is  a  c^arfc  thick  woollen  cloth,  with  holes 
to  put  their  arois  through  inftcad  of  flccves.  This, 
reaches  to  their  knees,  and  hangs  loofc  about  their 
^diirs. 

'  When  the  women  go  abroarl,  they  are  drefied  al- 
,moft  lilcf  the  men,  their  upper  garment  being  an  al- 
.'hague,  with  which  th'.-y  cuver  ihiir  heads,  bringing 
It  down  over  tlicir  foreheads  cloCe  to  their  eyes  ;  and 
,'underpcaih  they  tie  a  piece  of  white  cloth,  to  hide  the 
lower  part  of  the  face  ;  the  alhague  covers  all  but 
their  Ic^s,  which,  when  they  are  at  home,  or  vifit 
frorn  the  tops  of  their  houfcs,  are  generally  naked  .1 
only  fome  of  fuperior  rank  have  their  drawers  fo  long, 
that  ihey  i;each  to  their  feet,  and  hang  in  great  loofe 
fc^ds  about  their  legs.  They  wear  the  fame  kind  of 
flipptrs  as  the  ftien.  Within  doors  they  have  only  a 
fingle  binder  about  their  foreheads,  and  their  hair 
hangj  behind  in  two  large  plaits  at  full  length.'  At 
}\om<;  ihey  alfo  wear  a  vefl:,  open  from  the  bolbm  tp_ 
the  waili,  [o  fhew  their  embroidcied  fmucks  ■,  and 
they  fartcn  Urge  pitCL-s  of  muQin  to  the  Qeeves  of 
their  vcfts,  wliich  himg  down  very  low  in  the  nature 
flf  rufBcw:  over  tl.eir  drawers  tiiey  wear  a  fhort  pct- 
.i':c03t-,  bcfide  they  have  bracelets  on  their  arms  an^ 
Jcgs,  and  large  car-rings  in  their  ears. 

"The  women  have,  fine  eyes,  and  fome  of  them  very 
beautiful  fkins,  which  we  had  fometimes  an  oppor- 
.tynityrijf  obfcrvingi  tor  though  a  man  may  live  a 
y'car  in  Tetuan  wiihuut  Iceing  the  Lee  of  a  Moorlfn 
woman  in  the  itreets,  yet  when  we  met  them  in  the 
Jiclds,  or  iaw  them  on  the  houfc-tops,  if  none  of  the 

Moors 


TO  MEQJJINEZ.  399 

Moors  were  in  light,  they  woulJ  unveil,  and  laugh, 
tin  the  appearance  of  one  obliged  them  to  hide  their 
faces  again. 

When  any  of  the  Moors  have  a  mind  to  entertain 
their  neighbour?,  the  women  go  to  the  top  of  the 
houfe,  and  continue  their  till,  the  gucfts  are  gone. 
Their  general  cntertainmeni  conlilts  of  cufcufu,  which 
is  thus  made  :  they  put  fine  t^our  into  a  large  t^at  pan, 
and  fprinkling  it  with  w.ucr,  mil  it  up  into  fmall 
balls  i  thefc  are  put  into  a  kind  of  cullender  thtt 
icrvcs  for  the  cover  of  a  por,  where  meat  and  fowls 
arc  a  ftcwing,  fo  that  it  receives  the  heat  and  ftcam : 
when  it  15  enough,  ihcy  pour  ftrong  broth  into  it, 
2nd  putting  the  meat  and  fowls  at  top,  Icrve  it  up. 
They  fit  crofc-kggcd  on  the  floor,  putting  their  dilhes 
upon  a  large  piece  of  greafy  leather,  tlut  fcrvcs  both 
for  table  and  tjble-cioch.  Their  drlhes  are  either  of 
pewter  or  earthen^varc,  wide  at  tfK-  top  and  narrow 
at  the  bonom,  fomcwhiic  like  a  high  crowned  hat 
turned  with  the  crown  downward.  vV'hile  they  cat, 
a  fcrvant  llands  by  with  a  great  bo*I  of  water  in  one 
hand,  and  a  narrow  ling  piece  of  blue  l.ncn  in  the 
other,  to  wipe  their  right  hands,  with  which  they 
pull  the  victuals  to  pieces,  which  arc  generally  itewed 
to  rag^.  They  ne%'er  ulc  the  Icit  hand  in  catiti^ ; 
brcaul'e  that  is  always  ufcd  on  necellitry  occkTions. 
They  cat  without  fpeaking^  and  after  their  nncais 
drink  water,  their  rcli^on  tbrbiddin;^  them  wine  and 
a'l  other  intoxicating  liquors,  except  ^ydcr  i  ya  molt 
of  them  will  get  drunk  with  Itrong  liquors  of  any 
kind,  if  ihcy  cm  get  it.  They  arc  fo  fond  of  butter- 
milk, wh;ch  is  their  chief  defert,  that  when  they 
ivould  fpcak  of  the  txiraordinary  fwcctnels  of  an/ 
thing,  they  compare  it  w  ilut.  A  Urge  black  pit- 
ciier  of  it  is  generally  brought  in,  with  a  wooden 
ladle,  which  is  prclcnte-d  to  ilic  molt  cor.[ldeT.iblr 
perlon,  atid  from  him  it  paifc^  round  the  tronipany 
(cveral  times. 

Their 


30P  V/INDUyj  JOURNEY 

Their  butter,  which  is  bad,  is  made  of -all  the 
inilk  as  it  comes  from  the  cow,  by  putting  it  into  x  ■ 
(kin,  and  Ihaking  it,  till  the  bucicr  feparatcs  from  it. 
They  bury  it  in  the  ground  to  make  it  keep,  and  do 
not  diflike  it  when  jt  is  three  or  four  years  old.  They 
alfo  wrap  up  the  cawls,  fuci  and  fat  of  cows,  (heep 
and  goat£,  in  great  rolls,  which  in  winter  are  fold  to 
the  poor  inftead  of  butter.  ,  Their  bread  is  however 
extreamly  good  and  cheap. 

While  in  their  houfes  they  are  always  fitting  on 
mats,  or  lying;  and  if  they  go  out  on  foot,  it  is 
never  farther  than  to  make  a  vitit,  unlefs  their  buli- 
ncls  requires  it :  but  they  daily  fpend  five  or  fix  hours 
fitting  on  their  hams  before  their  doors,  thinking  ic 
moft  ridiculous  to  walk  up  and  down  a  room.  Why, 
fay  they,  Ihould  a  man  move  from  one  end  of  the 
room  to  the  other,  without  apparent  caufc  ?  Can  he 
not  as  well  ftay  in  the  place  he  is  in,  as  go  to  the 
other  entl,  mecrly  in  order  to  came  back  again  ? 

On  tiie  1 3th  of  June  we  began  our  journey  to  Mc- 
quinez,  and  on  the  18th,  coming  within  two  miles' 
of  Alcaflkr,  wc  were  met  by  the  governor  of  Tan- 
gier, who  came  toward  us  with  a  I'pcar  carried  up- 
right by  a  flave  at  his  horfe's  head.  After  he  had 
welcomed  the  ambaflador,  we  were  conduced  to- 
ward the  town  with  a  number  of  lufty  Moors  tilting 
before  us  ;  the  drums  were  beating,  ftrange  forts  of 
muHc  playing,  afid  great  crouds  of  people  prelTing 
to  clofe  upon  us,  that  they  could  not  be  kept  off  by 
the  blows  of  our  guards,  till  we  came  to  the  tents 
that  were  pitched  clofe  to  the  walls  of  Alcaflar. 

On  the  left  of  the  road,  almofl:  ail  the  way  from 
Tetuan  to  AlcaiTar,  runs  a  ridge  of  very  high  moun- 
tains, called  by  the  Moors,  The  Mountains  of  Ha- 
bib;  the  inhabitants  of  which  cannot  be  reduced  to 
the  fame  degree  of  fubjeflion  as  the  reft  of  the  coun- 
try ;  yet,  upon  civil  treatment,  bring  the  bafla  a  con- 
tribution i  but  when  ufed  ill,  revenge  themfclvcs  hy 

infcft- 


f  TO   MEQ^UINEZ!.  30* 

inftfting  the  roads,  and  robbing  and  deftroylng  tra- 
vellers, retiring,  when  they  fee  occafion,  to  their  re- 
treats in  the  mountains,  where  it  would  be  difficult 
to  hurt  them  :  whence  the  bafia  rather  chufes  to  take 
peaceably  what  they  voluntarily  fend  him,  than  to 
enrage  them  by  attempting  violent  meafures. 

Alcaflar  was  once  an  important  city,  and  the  feat 
df  the  governor  of  this  pare  of  the  kingdom  ■,  but  ic 
is  now  fallen  to  decay,  fo  that  of  fifteen  mofques^ 
there  are  only  two  in  which  fervice  is  performed. 
Here  are  a  great  number  of  ftorks,  which  live  very 
familiarly  with  the  people,  walking  about  the  town, 
and  poficfTing  the  tops  of  the  mofques  and  the  houfcs ; 
but  though  they  are  eftecmed  f;icred  birds,  they  are 
not  free  enough  to  enter  in  and  Iheltcr  themfelves 
from  the  heat  of  the  fun,  and  therefore  fome  of  them 
drop  down  dead  every  day. 

On  the  26th  we  left  AlcafHr,  and  proceeding  on 
our  journey,  on  the  firft  of  July  paffed  by  the  ruins 
of  a  very  antient  and  noble  ftone  building,  called  by 
the  natives  Pharaoh's  Caftic,  Thefc  ruins  are  fituaied 
on  u  hill  of  an  caly  afceni,  about  140  miles  fouth  of 
Tetuan,  and  16  north-eaft  of  Mequincz.  One  of 
the  buildings  feems  part  of  a  triumphal  arch. 

The  country  we  had  hitherto  paffed  is  very  plea- 
fant  and  fertile  -,  the  plains,  in  many  places,  abound- 
ing^in  corn  and  cattle,  the  hills  and  mountains  yield- 
ing  plenty  of  olives  ;  though  a  great  part  lies  wafte 
and  uncultivated,  not  (o  much  from  the  want  of  a 
fufficicnt  number  of  inhabitants,  as  from  the  opprcf- 
fions  of  the  government. 

On  the  3d  we  entered  the  city  of  Mequinez,  a 
little  before  the  fun  arofc,  to  avoid  the  prodigious 
croud  we  (hould  have  met  with  had  the  day  been 
much  farther  advanced  1  by  which  means  we  got  to 
our  houfe  with  very  little  interruption. 

On  the  6ih,  about  fcven  in  the  morning,  the  em- 
peror lent  an  Alcayde  with  a  guard  to  conduft  the 
BDibaffador  to  him.  We  pafled  through  the  ftrCcts  in 
6  \Vvii 


302         WINDUS's  JOURNEY 

the  following  order :  firft  there  were  two  fcijeants  oa 
horfeback,  followed  by  our  mufic,  which  played  all 
the  way  J  then  came  the  atnbaflador,  with  his  livery- 
men on  each  fide  i  and  after  him  the  gentlemen  of 
the  retinue,  followed  by  feveral  fervants  on  horfeback. 
The  alcayde  who  commanded  the  guard,  would  not 
fufier  the  Moors,  out  of  the  emperor's  fervice,  to 
come  near  us  -,  the  guards  therefore  laid  on  unmerci- 
fully, and  fometimes  knocked  the  people  down. 

Wedifmoiinted  at  the  outward  gate  of  the  palace, 
and  pairing  through  three  6r  four  large  cburt  yards^ 
fat  down  under  fame  piazzas  for  about  half  an  hour. 
Then  word  being  brought  that  the  emperor  was  come 
out,  we  were  ltd  into  a  fpaclons  palace,  where  we 
faw  him  mounted  witli  an  umbrella  held  over  his 
head:  his  courtiers  flood  bare-fqoted  on  each  fide,  in 
ihc  habit  of  flaves,  ami  behind  him  his  guards  were 
drawn  up  in  the  figure  of  an  half-moon.  We  march- 
ed toward  the  emperor  with  our  mufic  playing,  till 
we  came  within  about  eighty  yards  of  him  ■,  when  the 
old  monarch  alighting  from  his  horfc,  proftrated  him- 
fclf  on  the  earth  to  pray,  and  continued  Ibme  minutes 
with  his  face  fo  clole  to  the  cartli,  that  when  wc  came 
up  to  him,  the  duft  remained  upon  his  nofe.  When 
he  had  done  he  itilhntly  mounted,  and  took  a  lance 
in  his  hand. 

The  ambalTador  and  we  bowed  as  we  approacjwd 
the  emperor,  when  nodding  his  head,  he  cried  feve- 
ral  times  hm,  and  bade  die  ambafTador  be  covered  j 
with  which  he  complied,  and  at  the  fame  time  dc-  ■ 
livered  his  majefty's  letter,  tied  up  in  a  filk  handkcr- 
qW]ci',  into  the  emperor's  hand,  obfcrving,  that  he 
was  come  from  the  king  of  Great  Britain,  his  matter, 
to  fettle  peace,  friendfl^ip,  and  a  good  underftanding 
between  the  iv.o  crowns :  and  that  he  had  brought 
him  a  prefent,  which  he  hojxd  he  would  accepc 
The  emperor  replied,  he  fhould  have  every  thing  he 
came  for,  becaufe  he  loved  the  Englifli  ■,  and  that 
fuch  of  the  Moors  whom  the  ambafiadur  lud  brought 

over 


TO   M.EQUINEZ. 

over  wIlIi  him,  as  were  able,  fhoiilJ  pay  their  ranibm, 
and  thofe  who  were  not,  the  bafTa  of  Tccuan  (houlj 
pay  for  :  but  recollcfting  bimfclf,  he  added,  tlic  Eash  ■ 
lifi]  m;ike  no  (laves  nor  fell  any.     Upon  which  ttt^J 
ambaflddor  told  him,  he  hopeJ  he  would  liave  thtjj 
fame  regard  for  thfe  king  his  maJkr's  Tubieds,  and 
admit  them  to  return  home  into  their  own  country -^ 
a  charity  becoming  lb  potent  a  monarch.     Soon  aftee 
the  emperor  i'pcaking  to  the  balTa  of  Tctuan,  the  laGvl 
ler  prollruted  himfelf  on  thceaith,  kilTeJ  ic,  and  ariW  J 
i[)g,  went   up  to  the  emperor,  an:l  kiiT^-d  his  foolj^j 
which  they  all.  do  very  oficn  when   hn  talks  to  ll 
aod  then  retire  backward  into  their  pUces  again. 

The  enr.peror  was  mounted  on  a  black  horfe.  Hij 
negroes  fanned  and  beat  the  flics  from  die  horfe  witM 
cloths  ;  and  [he  umbrella  was  confiantly  kept  twirlingl 
over  his  head  to  produce  a  UttW  wind,  the  man  thatj 
carried  it  alfo  taking- care  to  move  as  his  horfe  did,  J 
that  no  fun  might  come  upon  the  emperor.  His  dref^J 
differed  iittle  from  that  of  his  bjjfas  :  but  the  handlft  J 
of  his  fcymitar  was  of  gold,  and  let  with  large  c 
raids  ;  and  his  faddle  was  covcrej  with  iVarlec  c 
embroidered  %vith  gold,  with  one  pillol  in  a  clotli 
cafe,  on  the  left  fide. 

On  our  leaving  the  emppror,  which  we  did  by  e 
itig  backward  a  good  way,  we  wcrecondufbcd  by  i: 
majefly's  order  to  fee  the  palace.  We  were  Brib !« 
into  a  large  fquare  building,  with  piiizzas  all  round 
this  was  the  queen  of  the  Xtri[-'h's  apartment.  ~ 
arches  were  wrought  wjth  piaifter  fret-work  io  flowers^I 
and  fupporied  by  ncic  Hone  pillars :  the  bottom  antt'f 
lide,  for  about  five  feet  high,  were  chequered  with]  | 
tiles  of  Itveral  colours,  as  were  all  the  apartiiients,,! 
walks,  palTigcs,  and  underneath  Uil-  arches,  whid^,! 
caire  a  beautiful  air  of  nejtncfs  to  the  buildings*.  J 
trom  thence  wcwerc  led  inio  a  magazine  near  a  quarr-.! 
tcrof  a  mile'long,  and  no:  abrve  ihiriy  feet  broadyl 
in  which  were  hung  up  gieat  quaniiiits  oJ-",  arms  in  ' 
cafes. 


304  WINDUS's  JOORNEY 

We  were  then  carried  into  another  large  and  fpad-' 
tus  building,  with  piazzas  all  rounds  hke  the  for- 
Jncr,  where  lived  two  of  the  emperor's  wives,  much 
eftcemed  by  him. 

From  thence,  pafTing  throng^  fome  neat  long 
■walks  and  paflages  of  chequer-work,  we  came  to  an- 
other building,  that  had  a  large  garden  in  the  middle,' 
planted  round  with  rail  cyprefs  trees :  the  garden  iff 
^nk  60  or  70  feet  below  the  foundation  of  inc  build- 
ing, over  which  runs  a  terrafs  walk,  from  one  fide 
to  the  other,  about  half  a  mile  long,  and  t^  or  16 
ftet  broad,  all  the  way  (haded  at  the  top  with  vines 
and  other  greens,  fupported  by  Ilrong  ana  well  mader 
wood  work.  In  this  walk  was  a  chariot  that  went  . 
with  fprings,  and  a  fmall  calafh,  in  which,  we  were 
told,  the  emperor  w^  fometimes  drawn  hy  women' 
and  eunuchs. 

We  paired  through  fcveral  other  fquares  and  long 
buildings,  now  and  then  feeing  the  Chriftians  upon' 
the  top  of  high  walls,  beating  down  the  mortar  with 
heavy  pieces  of  wood,  fomcthins;  like  thofe  ufed  by 
our  paviours  in  driving  down  tfak  ftones^  chefethey 
all  raife  together,  and  keep  time  in  their  ftrokcs. 

After  we  had  been  about  three  hours  in  viewing 
the  palace,  wc  were  again  conduced  to  the  emperor, 
who  was  on  horfeback  viewing  a  magazine  of  lances 
and  other  arms.  At  the  approach  ofthe  aniba0ador, 
he  afked  him  how  he  liked  his  palace  ?  the  ambafla- 
dor  faid  it  was  one  of  the  nobleft  on  the  face  of  the 
earth ;  at  which  the  emperor  faid.  Thank  God. 
Some  Englilh  boys  then  falling  proftrate,  and  giving 
him  the  ufual  falutation,  God  blefs  thy  power ;  the 
emperor  afked  of  what  nation  they  were,  and  being 
told  they  were  Englifii,  he  bid  them  go  horr»e  with 
the  amballador,  and  fee  him  to  bed:  upon which.the 
ambaflador  returned  the  enlpc^or  thanks,  and  took 
his  leave. 

At  night  one  of  tlie  queens  fent  fome  provifions 
drefled  in  the  palace,  and  fruit,  defiring  to  know  how 

the  " 


ft 


TO  MEQJJINEZ. 


'iRmbalTidctf'  did,  and  wtfbing  him  a  good  nlghc 
The  viduals  were  high  fcafoncd,   and  ftewcd  witb  | 
toots  and  fpices. 

The  ncxc  day  we  were  fcnt  for  again  to  fee  the  pa- 
lace, where  arriving  about  nine  o'clock,  we  were  6rll 
fliewn  fonic  large  rooms  full  of  men  ani  boys  mak- 
ing faddles,  ftodcs  for  guns,  fcabbards  for  fcymicars, 
and  other  things.     From  thence  wc  palltrd  through  ^ 
ieveral  large  neat  buildings,   and  at  length  entered  , 
die  moft  inward  and  beautiful  part  of  the  palace, 
which  has  a  garden  in  the  middle,    planted  round  ] 
with  cyprefs  and  other  trees.     All  the  columns  of  this  j 
building,  which  is  of  3  vail  length,  arc  of  marble,  and  1 
faid  to  be  aRtient  Roman  pillars,  tranfported  thither  I 
from  Sallee  :  the  arches  and  doors  of  the  apartmeiics  1 
are  finely  adorned. 

^cre  one  of  the  queens  fent  us  a  collation  of  dates, 
grapes,  melons,  almonds,  raifins,  figs,  and  fwect-  ] 
meats.  The  fruit  was  vrry  welcomi^,  for  walking  J 
had  made  us  dry  j  we  thcrelbre  fat  down  under  a  pi-  I 
azza,  and  wt-rc  ai[i«dcd  by  the  maids  of  the  palace,  ] 
whofe  ictty  Ikins  deceived  no  fniall  embcUillinient-j 
^rom  the  (hining  bracelets  and  lilvcr  trinkets  they  wore  ' 
in  great  plenty  on  ihc;r  arms  and  legs,  witli  gold 
chains  about  their  nciks,  monrtrjus  large  ear-rings,  1 
and  other  African  ornaments:  we  were  all  the  while  J 
obfcrvcd  by  the  emperor's  women,  though  wcdid' 
not  know  it  till  atcerwarJ. 

This  regale  being  ended,  wc  parted  from  our  black  i 
attendants,  and  were  conduiftcd  to  another  neat  re-  ' 
gular  building,  with  piazzas  all  round.     The  arcA 
was  all  ciicquer-work,  and  in  the  midJle  was  a  roi* 
of  marble  bafons  at  certain  diitances,  with  li(  tie  chan-  J 
nels  cut  in  rtone,  conveying  the  water  from  one  to  the  j 
other.     Here  is  a  magazine  and  trcafury.     Wc  iit'ter-  | 
ward  vifitcd  the  infidc  of  an  apartment  where  one  of  J 
the  queens  formerly  lived  1  we  faw  alfo  the  baths  and 
fome  beautiful  cobahs  belonging  to  that  apar[incni. 
F/om  thence  we  were  led  througS  feveral  otiiertjild- 

VoL.  VI.  X  in^s, 


3o6  WiNDUS'i  JOURNEr 

ings,  confining  for  the  moft  part  of  oblong  fquares^ 
wuh  piazzas,  under  which  ihe  doors  enter  into  iHe 
■  lodgings,  which  are  generally  ground  rooms.  The 
doors  of  eiLh  biiildirg  are  ail  of  one  fizc  and  form, 
finely  inlaid,  and  Tome  of  them  gilt.  In  one  of  thefe 
Iquares  was  a  fountain  with  channels  of  marble,  that 
formed  a  very  neat  and  prt-tty  labyrinth.  We  after- 
ward vifited  fome  other  Irately  cobahs,  which  are  lofty 
and  magnificent  rooms,  each  covered  with  a  dome 
painted  of  a  flcy  colour,  adorned  whh  flars,  and  a 
golden  fun  in  the  middle,  of  curious  workmanlblp. 

This  palace  is  about  four  miles  in  circumference, 
and  is  almolt  fquari.-.  It  ftsnds  on  even  ground,  and 
has  no  hill  ncir  it.  The  buildings  are  ot  rich  mortar, 
■widiout  cither  brick  or  fVone,  except  for  pillars  and 
arches ;  and  the  mortar  fj  v.-ell  wrougnt,  that  the 
walk  a;e  like  one  entire  piece  of  tcrrafs.  The  whole 
buildini;;  is  exceeding  mafTy,  the  outer  wall  being  25 
ftet  thick.  Goi.ig  to  take  a  diflant  profpeil  of  this 
flruclure,  we  paficd  through  a  large  field,  where,  on 
cacli  fide  of  the  path,  were  great  numbers  of  rats  of 
a  prodigiciis  fize,  v.hich  burrowed  in  the  earth  like 
rabbits  ;  and  ran  about  Co  thick,  that  the  ground  was 
almofi  covered  by  iheni :  they  let  us  come  within  eight 
-or  ten  yards  of  then  before  they  would  go  into  thdr 
hohs;  and  h^ivir,!;  pafied  tliem  they  again  ap- 
peared above  grmind,  fo  that  both  before  and  behind 
us  there  were  v.ilt  multitudes  of  ibem.  At  the  end 
of  il-is  field,  v.hiili  is  of  great  extent,  is  a  garden  ef 
pomeor.in;;t:;s  piunred  in  a  valley,  over  which  the 
emperor  has  built  a  ftrong  bridge,  that  reaches  from 
the  top  of  one  hill  to  the  other,  for  the  more  com- 
nicdious  pafilng  over  them. 

On  the  azd  of  July  the  ainbaflador  had  his  fccond 
audience,  when  the  tn-!pcror  had  ordered  all  theEng- 
■lilh  captives  to  be  drawn  up  in  his  palace.  \Vc  went 
with  the  mufic  playing,  as  before,  and  found  the  em- 
peror fittiiig  ur.dur  a  pia-/-z:i  j  bt;t  mounting  his  horfe, 
and  after  the  lirll  compliments,  waving  his  hand  to 

t!te 


TO  MEQUINEZi 


3^ 


^capuTCS,  be  bade  them  go  heme  wtik  the  ambxT- 
dor  into  cheir  own  countr)':  upoa  itus  they  lU 
ifell  proftritc,  cryin»,  •■  GoJ  blc&  thy  powtr,"  and 
were  going  out  of  liis  prcft-ncc  ;  when  ibe  emjieror 
cauling  ihem  to  Hay,  addeJ,  that  he  loved  the  ^tn- 
baOidor  and  all  the  Engtifh,  bccaufe  he  knew  they 
loved  him  and  his  houfc,  and  that  there  fbould  not 
be  an  Engltfliman  a  (hvc  in  his  cnipire.  Then  wx% 
ing  his  hand  again  to  the  captives,  they  vfcnt  iwar 
and  the  ambaflador  returned  the  emperor  thanks  t 
the  honour  he  had  dune  him.  After  fome  other  com 
^Uments,  that  prince  turning  his  horfe,  gallop< 
away. 

On  the  25ih  tlie  anibaflTador  went  to  viCt  Mulcf:! 
Ally,  one  of  the  emperor's  fons,  who  received  him  j 
fitting  on  a  lilk  carpet,  wrought  with  gold  in  large  1 
lowers.  He  had  two  black  boys  fanning  him,  onC'l 
of  them  dreft  in  a  vcft  of  black  and  white  flowered^ 
velvet,  the  other  in  yellow  fpecklej  %viih  black,-| 
The  prince's  garment  was  of  rich  cloth  of  goldif  I 
They  brought  us  chairs,  and  we  fat  down  for  lonwJ 
time,  the  amba0ador  talking  to  the  prince  by  one  o?  J 
pur  captives,  who  refted  himfelf  on  his  hinds  ao^l 
knees  at  the  ihrcfhold  of  the  door,  and  when  he  ipoke  ] 
to  the  prince,  proftraieJ  himfelf  almoft  clofe  to  thc-l 
ground!  We  were  ihcn  led  up  flairs,  and  entertaitfc-  j 
cd  with  wine  and  niufic  till  dinner,  which  conCrte^J 
of  above  twenty  Urge  dilhcs,  drefTed  in  feveraJl 
ways.  "  J 

Mcquinez  is  fituaced  in  a  delightful  plain,  ar  tlie  | 
diftancc  of  about  twenty  leagues  from  the  city  aJTl 
Tez,  and  was  an  inconriderable  place  before  ihe'cnvJ 
pcror  chofc  to  bui(d  his  palace  ihere,  which  hai  rc»*T 
acred  it  the  mitropolis  of  a  large  empire. 

In  the  midft  of  the  city  live  the  Jews,  who  havt 
place  to  themfclve5,  the  gates  ot  which  arr  Ir.ked  | 
at  night.  They  have  an  alcayde  to  protr^t  ilit'rti  I 
from  being,  plundered  by  the  common  peopl:: ;  for  j 
as  it  is  death  for  than  to  curfe,  or  lift  up  a  hand  J 

X   2  t(i>;rt(l] 


3oS  WiNDUS-s  JOURKEY 

awainft  the  meaneft  Moor ;  the  very  boys  kick  them 
about  at  thrir  pleafutv,  againft  which  they  have  no 
other  remedy  bu:  running  away. 

Clofe  to  Meqwincz,  on  the  north-weft  fide,  and 
only  divided  from  it  by  a  road,  ftands  a  large  negroe 
town,  that  takes  up  as  much  ground  as  the  city  ;  but 
the  houfes  are  nciiher  fo  high,  nor  fo  well  built.  ■  Its 
inhabrtants  arc  blacks  or  tawnics,  out  of  whom  the 
emperor  recruits  the  foldiers  tor  his  court. 

'ihe  emperor  who  treated  us  with  fuch  civility,  was 
named  Mulcj-  Abdallah;  he  was  87  years  of  age, 
about  50  of  which  he  had  fpent  on  the  throne.  But 
though  his  behaviour  to  us  was  obliging,  yet  he 
might  juftiy  be  termed  a  monfter  in  the  human  form, 
and  one  of  the  moft  bloody  tyrants  that  ever  plagued 
mankind ;  for  his  life  was  one  continued  fcene  of  eX- 
aftions,  murders,  and  the  moft  horrid  afts  of  cruelty, 
daily  exercifed  on  his  (laves,  and  his  miferable  fob- 
jcfts.  Yet  this  wretch  was  eftecmcd  a  faint :  he  was 
coniinuatly  proftrating  himfelf  on  the  earth,  to  offer 
up  his  petitions  to  Mahomet;  and  perpetually  cxer- 
cifing  wanton  a6ts  of  inhumanity.  By  his  four  wives; 
and  the  many  thoufand  women  he  has  had  in  his 
feraglio  during  his  long  reign,  he  is  faid  to  have  had 
700  fens  able  to  mount  a  horfc ;  but  the  number  of 
his  daughters  is  not  known. 

It  ts  a  thoiiland  pities  that  fo  fine  a  country  (hould 
be  fubjeft  to  a  government,  that  in  tlie  moft  effeftiial 
manner  diicouragts  induUry  and  in>provcment :  for 
the  climate  is  delightful,  though  too  hot,  and  the 
foil  exireamly  fertile  1  producing  every  thing  that  can 
contribute  to  ufc  and  plcafure,  even  beyond  imagina- 
tion-, nature  in  a  grtat  mcafurc  fupplying  the  deRci- 
ency  of  their  imUiltr^'.  1  hey  imitate  the  Spaniards 
in  their  manner  of  tilling  the  ground,  which  produces 
great  quantities  of  wheat,  barley,  pcate,  beans,  hemp, 
and  flax  ;  and  they  reap  three  times  between  May  and 
September.  Wuuld  the  government  but  countenance 
iiidufl;7,  or  at  lealt  allow  the  people  to  enjoy  in 

peace 


TO  MEQUINEZ.  ^09 

peace  the  fruit  of  their  labour,  the  land  wotdd  be 
capable  of  producing  a  hundred  times  as  much  as  is 
now  conrumed  in  the  country;  for  ic  is  laid,  that  a 
hundredth  part  of  the  land  is  not  cultivated. 

The  chief  commodities  exporttd  from  thence  are 
tin,  copp}cr,  hides,  woul,  cordovans,  dates,  honeys 
wax,  raillns,  olives,  almonds,  gum-arabic,  gum-fan- 
dric,  elephants  teeth,  oftrich  feathers,  indigo,  and  fine 
mats. 

Fez  is  the  center  of  the  trade  of  this  empire,  and 
from  thtrnce  the  caravans  go  to  Mecca  and  Medina, 
carry  goods  into  the  Eaft  ;  and  from  thence  large  ca- 
ravans t'ct  out  every  year  to  Guinea. 

On  the  27th  of  July,  a  little  before  fun-fct,  we  left 
Mequtnez,  wiih  the  articles  of  peace  figncd  by  the 
emperor,  and  travelling  the  lame  road  we  came,  ar- 
rived at  Tetuan  on  the  i2thof  Auguft.  Some  of 
our  captives  died  there,  and  updn  the  road  ;  and  one 
was  drowned  in  the  river  Aicaflar.  We  embarlted 
with  296  of  thcfc  captives,  who  were  all  that  were 
left  alive,  and  had  not  turned  Moors.  From  them 
we  learned,  that  at  our  coming  to  Mequinez  there 
were  reckoned  to  be  iiooChrittian  Haves  in  the  king- 
dom, about  300  of  whom  were  Englifh,  without 
reckoning  19  who  had  embraced  the  Mahomctin  re- 
ligion ;  there  were  400  Spaniards,  163  Portuguefe, 
152  French,  69  Dutch,  25Genoef>.-,  and  3  Greeks; 
but  fome  of  all  thcfc  dilFtrent  nations  ks\.A  been  in- 
duced to  change  their  religion,  nnd  thereby  loft  all 
hope  of  being  redeemed. 


X3 


[     3"6    ] 

TRAVELS 

Into  the  Inland  Parts  of 

AFRICA, 

B  Y 

FRANCIS     MOORE. 

1LEFT  England,  fays  Mr.  Moore,  in  July  1730* 
on  being  appointed  a  writer  in  tlie  Icrvice  of  the 
Royat  African  company,  and  on  the  9th  of  Novem- 
ber came  to  an  anchor  in  the  mouth  of  the  Gambia. 
As  we  failed  up  that  river  near  the  ftiorc,  the  country- 
appeared  very  beautiful,  being  for  the  moft  part 
wcody;  and  between  the  woods  were  pleafant  green 
-  rice  grounds,  which  after  the  rice  is  cut,  arc  ftocked 
with  cattle.  On  the  nth  wc  landed  at  James's  Ifland, 
which  is  lituated  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  that  is 
here  at  leaft  feven  miles  broad.  This  iOand  lies  about 
ten  leagues  from  the  river's  mouth,  and  is  ^bout 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  circumference.  Upon 
it  is  a  fquare  ftonc  fort  regularly  built,  with  four  baf- 
lions;  and  upon  each  are  fcven  guns  well  mounted,. 
that  comn'.and  the  river  all  round  :  befidc,  under  the 
walls  of  the  lort  facing  the  fca,  arc  two  round  bat- 
teries, on  eich  of  which  are  four  large  cannon  well 
mounted,  that  carry  ball  of  24.  pounds  weight,  and 
between  thcfc  are  nine  fmall  guns  mounted  for 
faluics. 

Reiii'e  ti;e  fort,  there  arq  feveral  faftories  up  the 
liver,  fcrtlcd  for  the  convenience  of  trade ;  but  they 
are  all  under  riii^  dirtition  of  (He  governor  and  chi« 
merchants  of  die  fort.    For  rhis  purpofe  the  com- 
pany 


MOORE»s  TRAVELS.  311 

yany  have  here  three  or  four  (loops  of  about  30  tons 
each,  and  about  the  fame  number  of  long-boats  i 
fome  of  which  are  condantly  employed  in  fetching 
jirovifion3  and  water  from  the  main  fortheufe  of  the 
garrifon,  and  the  reft  are  employed  in  carrying  goods 
up  10  the  faftories,  and  bringing  from  them  flaves, 
elephants  teeth,  and  wax. 

Soon  after  my  arrival,  I  flipped  upon  oyfters  that 
grew  upon  trees  :  this  being  fomewhat  remarkable, 
it  may  be  thought  worthy  of  an  explanation.  Down 
the  river,  where  the  water  is  fait,  and  near  the  fea, 
the  river  is  bounded  with  trees  called  Mapgroyes  ;. 
whofe  leaves  being  long  and  heavy,  weigh  the  boughs 
into  the  water :  to  ihefe  leaves  the  young  oyfters 
f^en  in  great  quantities,  where  they  grow  till  they, 
are  very  large,  and  then  you  cannot  feparate  them 
from  the  tree,  but  are  obliged  to  cut  off  the  boughs 
with  the  oyfters  hanging  on  them,  lefembling  ropes 
of  onions. 

On  the  2zd  of  February,  ooeiif  the  kings  of  Fo- 
■nia  came  to  the  fort,  and  on  his  landing  was  faluted 
with  five  guns.  He  came  to  fee  the  governor,  or 
rather  to  alk  for  fome  powder  and  ball,  in  order 
tQ  enable  him  to  defend  himfelf  againft  fame  people 
with  whom  he  was  at  war :  he  was  a  young  man, 
very  black,  tall,  and  well  ftt ;  was  drcffed  in  a  pair  of 
ihort  yellow  cotton-cloth  breeches,  and  wore  on  his 
back  a  garment  of  the  fame  cloth,  matie  like  a  fur- 
plice  :  he  had  on  his  head  a  very  large  cap,  to  which 
was  fattened  part  of  a  goat's  tail,  which  is  a  cuftomary 
crnament  with  the  great  men  of  thisrivcr^  but  he 
had  no  Au>cs  nor  ftockings.  He  and  ins  retinue  tame 
in  3  large  canoe,  holding  about  16  people,  all  armed 
with  guns  and  cutlaflcs.  With  him  came  two  or 
three  women,  and  the  fame  nurribcr  of  Mundingo 
drums,  which  arc  about  a  yard  long,  ami  a  foot  or 
twenty  inches  diameter  at  the  top,  but  Uli'  at  the 
bottom}  made  out  of  a  IbliJ  ptjcc  of  w;>o  1,  •.•■.i 
■c/fVCTCil  at  the  widcft  end  with  the  fi-.in  of  a  kid. 
X  4.  Thty 


313        MOORE'S  TRAVELS  into 

They  beat  upon  thriu  witli  the  left  hand,  ofing  onty 
one  drum-ftick ;  and  the  women  will  dance  very 
brifkly  to  ttie  found.  They  ftaid  at  the  fort  all  night, 
and  then  returned  home,  having  nine  guns  fired  at 
their  going  off. 

It  may  be  here  proper  to  obferve,  that  there  arc 
many  different  kingdoms  on  the  banks  of  the  Gam- 
bia, inhabited  by  fcvcral  races  of  people,  as  Mun- 
dingoes,  Jolloifs,  Pholeys,  Floops,  and  Portugucfc. 
The  moft  numerous  are  called  Muodingoes,  as  is 
likcwife  the  country  iliey  inhabit :  thefc  are  generally 
of  a  black  colour,  and  well  fet.  When  this  country 
was  conquered  by  the  Portuguefc,  about  the  year 
1420,  fomc  of  that  nation  fettled  in  if,  who  have  co- 
habited with  thcfc  Mundingoes,  till  they  arc  now 
very  near  as  black  as  they:  but  as  they  (till  retain 
a  fort  of  baftard  Portuguefc  language,  called  Creole, 
and  as  they  chriften  and  marry  by  the  help  of  aprieft 
annually  lent  thither  from  St.  Jago,  one  of  the  Cape 
de  Vtrde  iflanils,  they  Hill  cfl:i.em  thcmfelvcs  PoitU- 
gurfc  Chriilians,  as  much  as  if  they  were  aAually 
natives  of  Portugal ;  and  nothing  angers  them  more 
tlian  to  call  them  Negroes,  that  being  a  term  they 
ufc  only  for  (laves. 

C)n  the  north-fide  of  the  river  Gambia,  and  from 
tiicnce  inland,  are  a  people  called  JoUoiffs,  whofc 
oiintry  extends  even  to  the  river  Senegal,  Thefc 
people  are  much  blacker,  and  handtbmer  than 
the  jMiindingoes  -,  for  they  have  not  the  broad  nofes 
and   thick    lips    peculiar   to   the   Mundingoes    and 

Tn  every  kingdom  and  country  on  each  fide  of  the 
river  arc  people  of  a  tawney  colour,  called  Pholeys, 
who  resemble  th(;  Arabs,  whofe  language  moft  of 
tht-m  {pcr.'K  ;  for  it  is  taught  in  their  fchools  ;  and  the 
koian;  wi'ich  is  alfy  their  law,  is  in  that  language. 
Thi-y  ?jc  more  generally  learned  in  the  Arabic,  than 
:he  pfij'ie  oi'  F'lropc  arc  in  Latin ;  for  they  can  moft 
1:  ..".v'"i  :":ra::  it,  tliough  they  have  a  vulgar  tongue 

called 


the  Inland.  Parts  of  A  F-R 1 C  A. 


3»3 


caUed  Fholcy.  They  live  in  hords  or.claas,  build 
lowns,  and  are  not  fubjcft  to  any  of  the  kings  of 
the  country,  chough  they  lire  in  their  territories  -,  for 
if  they  arc  ufed  ill  in  one  nationj  they  break  up  their 
towns,  and  remove  to  another.  They  have  chiefs  of 
their  own,  who  rule  with  fuch  moderation,  that  every 
aft  of  government  fcems  ratlier  an  aft  of  the  people 
than  of  one  tpan.  Ihis  form  of  government  is  eafily 
adminiftcred,  bccaufe  the  people  are  of  a  good  and 
quiet  dirpofltion,  and  fo  well  inftrufted  in  what  is 
jufl  and  right,  that  a  man,  who  does  ill,  is  the  abo- 
mination of  all. 

In  thefe  countries  the  natives  arc  not  avaricious  of 
lands;  they  defire  no  mmt;  than  what  they  uli;,  and 
as  they  do  not  plough  wjth.horfcs  or  cattle,  tiiey  caiT 
ufe  but  veiy  little. 

The  natives  make  no  bread,  but  thicken  liquids 
with  the  flour  of  the  different  grains.  The  maize 
they  moftly  ufe  whpn  gftfcn,  parching  it  in  the  ear, 
when  it  eats  like  green  peas.  Their  rice  they  boil  in 
the  fame  manner  as  is  praftiled  by  the  Turks;  and 
make  Hour  of  the  Guinea  corn  and  manfaroke,  as 
they  alfo  fometimes  do  of  the  two  former  fpccies,  by 
beating  it  in  wooden  mortars.  The  natives  never 
bake  cakes  or  bread  for  themfclvcs,  but  tholi;  of 
their  women  who  live  among  the  Europcmi  learn  tu 
do  both. 

The  Pholey  arc  tlie  grcatcft  planters  in  tiiC  country, 
though  they  .are  ftrangcrs  in  it.  They  are  vciy  jn- 
duftrious  and  frugal,  and  raife  mucli  iiioie  corn  .ind 
cotton  than  they  confume,  which  they  iell  at  rcMfon- 
able  rates  ;  and  are  fo  remarkable  for  their  hofpitaiiry, 
that  the  natives  cfteem  it  a  blefling  to  have  a  Fholev 
town  in  their  neighbourhood:  betide,  their  behaviour 
has  gained  them  fuch  reputation,  that  it  is  eltcemcd 
infamous  for  any  one  to  treat  them  in  au  in hd'p liable 
manner. 

■  The  moft  general"  language  ufed  in  ihefe  countries 
is  the  Mundingoi   and  whoever  can  Ipeak  it,  niaj- 


3U        MOORE'S  TRAVELS  into 

travel  from  the  river's  mouth  up  to  the  country  of  the 
Jcncocs,  or  the  merchants ;  a  people  fo  called,  from 
their  annuaity  buying  a  great  number  of  Haves  there, 
and  bringing  them  down  to  the  lower  parts  of  the 
river,  to  iell  them  to  the  Europeaiis ;  though  I  believe 
their  country  cannot  be  Ws  than  fix  weeks  journey 
from  James's  Fort. 

The  next  language  moftly  ufed  here  is  called  the 
Creole  Porcugucfe-,  though  I  believe  it  would  be 
fcarce  undetftocd  atLifbon:  it  is,  however,  fooncr 
karnt  by  Englilhmen,  than  any  other  language  uled 
on  the  bin!;s  of  this  river,  and  is  always  fpolten  by 
the  linguifts  or  interpreters  j  and  thefe  two  Ilearnt 
whillt  in  the  river. 

The  Arabic  is  not  only  fpoken  by  the  Pholeys,  but 
by  moH  of  the  Maiiometans  in  the  river,  though 
they  arc  Mundingocs  ;  and  it  is  obferved,  that  thofc 
who  can  write  tliat  language  are  not  only  very  ftiift 
at  their  ik-votions  three  or  four  limes  a  day ;  but  are 
remarkably  lober  and  abftcmious  in  their  manner  of 
living. 

Oil  the  4th  of  April  I  went  to  Gillyfrec,  whidi  is 
a  large  town,  a  little  below  James's  tort,  inhabited 
by  rortiigucfc,  Miindingoes,  and  fome  Mahometans, 
whr>  have  here  a  pretty  httle  mofque.  The  EngliOi 
company  lin/e  a  fatCory  here,  pleafantly  fituaied, 
facing  tlie  fort,  and  alfo  fome  gardens  that  fupply 
the  fort  with  greens  and  fruit. 

A  niiti-v'e  here  took  me  to  his  houfe,  and  Ihcwed  me 
a  t;reat  nnniiier  oi'arrows,  daubed  over  with  a  black 
inixHire,  f'.id  to  be  fo  venomous,  that  if  the  arrow  did 
iuit  dr.iv;  blocxi  it  would  be  mortal,  unlefs  the  perfon 
v/ho  made  thi- r.iiKturc  had  a  mind  to  cure  it-,  for 
The  man  obr^-Tved,  that  there  were  no  poifonous 
heri>'',  whole  effects  might  not  be  prevented  by  the 
iippii-ation  of  (.'ihrr  herbs. 

(J;i  ill'?  nth,  came  down  the  river  a  vcflcl  com- 
r"::-n  led  liy  eajitain  Pylcc,  a  fcpsrate  trader,  from 
j:>.;r,  ':■.'. 'ed  v.-'h  P.avcs,  among  whom  was  a  perfon 

-    of 


the  Inland  Parts  of  AFRICA. 


3 '5 


of  an  elegsiu  figure,  named  Job  Ben  Sok>mon,  f-bo 
was  of  die  Pholcy  race,  and  fon  co  the  high  prieilot 
Bundd,  in  Fooca,  a  place  abouc  ten  days  journey 
from  Gillyfree.  This  pcribn  was  travelling  on  the 
I'uuih  fide  of  the  Gambia,  with  a  fervant,  and  abouc 
20  or  30  heaJ  of  cattle,  which  intiuced  the  Ling  of  a 
country  a  little  within  the  land,  to  Icize  not  oaly  the 
cattle,  but  Job  and  his  man,  [jothof  whom  he  ibid 
for  (laves  to  captain  Pyke.  The  Pholeys,  his  humane 
countrymen,  would  have  redeemed  him  -,  but  they 
had  the  mortiScatton  to  Bnd  that  he  was  carried  out 
of  the  river  before  they  had  notice  of  his  bting  a 
fiave ;  and  captain  Pyke  failed  with  him  to  Maryland. 
Job,  who  was  a  perfon  of  extraordinary  abilities,  and 
diiVmguirtied  merit,  was  not  fo  unhappy  as  he  had 
reafon  to  exped :  but  his  adventures  will  be  hereat'ter 
related,  when  I  (hall  have  occafion  to  mention  his 
return  to  this  country. 

On  the  2g[h,  the  governor  and  I  fet  out  for  Vintain, 
where  we  arrived  in  three  hours,  though  it  lies  about 
fix  leagues  from  James's  fort.  On  our  coming  to 
the  town,  the  Alcalde,  and  all  the  principal  inha- 
bitants came  to  welcome  us ;  and  foon  after  came  tht- 
p/incc,  in  whofc  dominions  the  town  is  lituatcd.  , 

Tlje  inhabitants  arc  not  very  curious  in  their  fur- 
niture i  for  [he  moft  that  any  of  them  have  is  a  fraail 
chcft  for  doaths,  a  matt  raited  upon  polls  from  the 
graunJ,  to  lie  on  ;  a  jar  to  hold  water,  a  callabafb  to 
drink  it  with;  two  or  three  wooden  mortars,  in  which 
they  pound  their  corn  and  rice ;  a  balket  which  they 
uie  as  a  fieve,  and  two  or  three  large  callaba(hes, 
out  of  which  they  cat  with  their  hands  inftead  of 
fpoons.  They  are  not  very  careful  of  laying  up  Ilorc 
againft  a  time  of  fcarcity  1  but  chufe  rather  to  fell 
what  they  can,  as  upon  occafion  they  can  fad  two  01^, 
three  days  v,ithout  eating  %  but  then  they  are  alv/ays., 
finoaking  tobacco,  which  is  of  their  own  growth. 

Here  are  cameleons,  and  great  numbers  of  croco. 
diles,  which  the  natives  kill  "and  eat;  ihcy  admire 

bc(th 


51(5        MOORE'S  TRAVELS  inta 

both  tlieni  and  tlicir  cggi,  which  I  have  frequently 
feen  them  cat,  when  they  had  young  ones  In  them 
as  long  as  my  finger.  I'his  is  one  of  their  niccft 
<rjJhes. 

Whilft  I  was  hercj  I  faw  an  oftrich,  with  a  man 
riding  upon  its  back,  who  was  going  down  to  the 
tort  i  it  being  a  prefent  to  the  governor,  from  one  of 
our  fiftors,  who  bought  ic  ac  l-aiatcnda. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  at  Joar,  ilie  king  of  Barfally 
came  thither,  attended  by  three  of  hi?  brothers,  above 
1 00  horfcmen,  and  as  many  foot  -,  and  though  he  had 
a  houfe  of  his  own  in  the  town,  he  infifted  on  lying 
at  the  fa£tory.  Mr.  Roberts,  Mr.  Harrifon,  who 
■were  factors,  and  I,  were  all  the  Englifh  there.  The 
king  immediately  took  poffeflion  of  Mr.  Roberts's 
bed ;  and  then  having  drank  brandy  till  he  was 
drunk,  ordirrcd  Mr.  Roberts  to  be  held,  while  he 
himfelf  took  out  of  his  porket  the  keys  of  the  ftorc- 
houfe,  into  wliich  he  and  fevcral  of  his  people  went, 
and  took  what  they  plcjfcd  :  he  fearchcd  chiefly  for 
brandy  i  of  which  tliere  happened  to  be  but  one 
anchor :  he  took  that,  and  having  drank  till  he  was 
dead  drunk,  was  put  to  bed-  This  anchor  lafted 
him  tiiree  days;  and  it  was  no fooner  empty,  than  he 
went  all  over  the  houfe  to  fcek  for  more.  At  laft  he 
entered  a  room,  in  which  Mr.  Harrifon  lay  fick, 
and  feeing  there  a  cale  that  contained  fix  gallons  and 
a  half,  that  belonged  to  him  and  me,  he  ordered  Mr, 
Harrifon  to  get  out  of  bed  and  open  it :  he,  however, 
tokt  him  with  great  gravity,  that  there  was  nothing 
in  it  but  fomc  ot' the  company's  papers;  and  that  ic 
muft  not  be  opened-,  but  the  king  was  too  well' 
acquainted  with  liquor  cafes  to  be  fo  eafily  deceived  j 
and  therefore  ordered  fome  of  his  men  to  hold  Mr. 
Harriibn  in  bed,  while  he  himfelf  took  the  key  out 
of  liis  breeches  pocket.  He  then  opened  the  che(t, 
took  cut  ail  the  liquor,  and  was  not  fober  while  it 
jiiikd  :  but  he  often  fcnt  for  Mr.  Harrifon  and  mc  to 
drink  with  him.    At  length  it  being  all  drank,  he- 

talked 


tU  InUnd  Parts  of  AFRICA; 


3 


Wked  of  going  homei  on  which  his  peo(rftf,  iwld 
■even  his  chief  minifters,  who  were  his  general,  and 
thf  keeper  of  his' ftores,  amiifed  ihemfclves  with 
taking  whatever  they  iiked,  and  Iiad  the  aflllrance  to 
tapen  even  cliefts  and  boxes.  This  we  could  not  help, 
for  what  refiftance  could  three  men  make  agalnft  200  i* 
What  they  took  announted  to  20 1.  fterling. 

Soraeiimes  the  king  would  ride  abroad,  and  fake 
moft  of  his  attendants  wiili  him  ;  but  when  he  was 

fone  we  were  plagued  with  the  company  of  two  of" 
is  brothers,  who  were,  if  pofTible,  worfc  than  his 
majefty.  Once  during  his  abferii-c,  Buomcy  Haman 
Benda,  one  of  ihefe  princes,  iaid  hold  of  a  mug  of 
water,  and  pretending  to  drink,  took  a  mouchfo?, 
and  then  fetcing  the  mUg  on  the  table,  fpurted  the 
water  in  my  face.  Upon  which,  confidcring  :ha:  if 
1  fuffered  fuch  infjlcnce  to  pals  unrtlcnteJ,  ic  would 
render  me  liable  to  be  continually  inlbhed,  I  took 
the  remainder  of  the  water,  and  threw  it  into  his 
breeches.  Upon  ilus  he  pulled  cur  his  knife,  and 
endeavoured  to  lUb  me,  but  wis  prevented  by  his 
favouriic  attendant,  who  held  his  arm,  and  foon  after 
reprcfented  to  hiin  the  unh;uKifome  manner  in  which 
he  had  treated  me,  and  the  provocation  "i  ha-J  received 
to  wet  him.  This  made  him  lb  adiamcd,  that  com- 
ing up  to  mc,  he  laid  himlVlf  down  on  the  fluor  with- 
out his  garment,  took  my  foot,  and  pi  ic.-d  it  on  his 
neck,  and  there  lay  til!  I  cicfired  him  to  rife;  after 
which,  no  man  appeared  more  my  friend,  nor  fhtwcd 
greater  willingnels  to  obH^ic  iiif. 

This  king,  as  well  as  all  his  attendants,  arc  of  the 
Mahoiiieiah  religion,  noiwithllanding  their  being 
liich  druhkardsj  and  tliis  monlier,  when  he  is  ibbcr, 
even  prays.  His  people,  as  well  as  himlelf^  alwiiys 
wear  white  cloaths  and  white  caps  ;  and  as  they  arc 
e^fceedlng  black,  this  drefs  makes  them  bok  very- 
well. 

This  tyhant  is  tall,  and  fo  p.inionatc,,tI)iit  when.^ny 
of  his  mert  aflVunc  him,  tic  makes  no  fci  upk  of  ihoot- 


^i8        MOORE'S  TRAVELS  into 

ing  them ;  and  fomctimes  when  he  goes  aboatd  i 
company's  floop  at  Cohonc,  where  he  ufiially  refidcs, 
he  inhumanly  Ihews  his  dexterity  by  fhooting  at  the 
canoes  ihat  pafs  by,  frcc]ucntly  killing  one  or  two 
men  in  a  day.  He  has  many  wives,  but  never  brings 
above  two  or  three  abroad  at  a  time  with  him. 
Among  Iiis  brothers,  there  are  fome  to  wlxom  he 
feldoni  ipeaks,  or  permits  to  come  into  his  company  j 
and  when  they  obtain  his  favour,  they  pull  off  their 
caps  and  garments,  and  throw  dufl  upon  their  heads, 
as  all  except  white  men  do,  who  come  into  the  king's 
prcfcnce. 

The  dominions  of  this  prince  are  very  extenfivcj 
and  are  divided  into  feveral  provinces,  over  which  he 
appoints  governors,  called  boomeys,  who  annually- 
come  to  pay  him  homage. 

At  length  the  king  and  his  guards,  to  our  great 
joyi  left  the  factory,  in  order  to  return  to  Cohone ; 
but  they  firfl:  (Iript  Mr.  Roberts's  chamber,  and  took 
away  his  deaths  and  books,  which  laft  they  offered 
to  fell  to  a  Maliometan  pricft ;  bur  he  being  a  friend 
to  Mr.  Roberts,  told  them,  he  believed  they  were 
books  in  which  he  kept  the  account  of  his  goods,  and 
that  to  take  them  away  would  inevitably  ruin  him  : 
upon  which  they  gave  him  leave  to  retufn  them. 

However,  five  months  after,  the  king  of  Barfally 
paid  us  another  vifit,  and  flaying  about  a  week, 
during  which  he  behaved  much  in  the  fame  manner  as 
beforL-,  he  and  his  attendants  again  left  us;  bucfbmc 
of  them  firft  broke  open  my  bureau,  and  took  out 
things  to  a  confiderable  value  j  and  the  fame  fate 
attcn.:ed  Mr.  Roberts :  befide  which  they  took  at 
great  quantity  of  the  company's  goods. 

In  the  interval  which  paficd  between  thefc  two 
vifits,  I  had  been  matie  tatfior,  and  had  received 
orders  to  take  charge  of  the  faaory  of  Joar:  butt 
was  unwilling  to  accept  of  tins  ofncc,  as  tliat  factory' 
was  liable  lo  lb  m,iny  infuhs  frcn*.  a  drunken  monarch, 
void  of  every  principle  of  jutiice,  and  dcflituteof  the 
6  feeling 


feeling  of  humanity.  I ,  therefore  took,  an  ipveotbry; 
of  the  goods  the  company  ha3  chcre,  iii  January' ijri. 
and  taking  a  letter  to  the  governor  from  Mr.  Kobcm, 
my  coUeguc,  rcturmrd  to  James's  fort. 

In  Marcli  I  returned  to  my  faftory  :  but  Mr.  Hugh, 
Hamilton  being  lent  up  the  river  to  fettle  a  factory 
&[  Faiatenda,  I  was  permitted  to  accompany  him ; 
and  accordingly  on  the  9th  of  April  we  left  Joar, 
and  proceeded  in  a  floop  up  the  Gambia.  The  next 
day  we  arrived  at  Yanimarew,  which  is  the  pleafanicft 
port  in  the  whole  river,  the  country  being  delight- 
fully (haded  with  palm  and  palmetto  trees.  The 
company  have  here  aftnall  houfe,  with  a  black  faftor, 
to  purchafe  corn  for  the  ufe  of  the  fort. 

On  my  arrival  at  Nackway,  the  natives  wetcomed 
me  with  the  mufic  of  the  balafeu,  which,  at  about 
100  yards  diftance,  founds  fomething  like  a  fmall 
organ.  It  is  compolcd  of  about  20  pipes  of  very  hanl 
wood  finely  poliihed  -,  which  diminish  by  lir:Ic  and 
little,  both  in  length  and  breadth,  and  are  tied  to- 
gether by  thongs  of  very  fine  leather,  Thel'e  thongs 
arc  twiftcd  about  fmall  round  wands,  put  between 
ihe  pipes  to  keep  them  at  a  diftancf ;  and  undrrnearh 
the  pipes  are  faftened  12  or  14  callabaflics  of  different 
fizes.  This  inftrument  they  play  upon  with  two 
fticks,  covered  with  a  thin  fkin  taken  from  the  trunk 
of  the  palmetto  tree,  or  with  fine  leather,  to  make 
the  found  Icfs  harlh.  Both  men  and  women  dance  to 
this  mufic,  which  they  much  admire,  and  are  highly 
delighted  to  have  a  white  man  dance  with  them. 

Having  finifhcd  my  bufihefs  here,  I  returned  ro 
Yamyamacunda  ;  and  having  ronticufd  ir,crc  about 
three  months,  proceeded  ftill  farther  up  the  river  to 
Fatatenda.  The  Gambia  is  there  nr.  wide  as  the 
Thames  at  London-Bridge,  and  fccmcd  very  deep  j 
but  what  is  moft  extraordinary,  the  ti;ie  in  ihe.t^y 
ft-afon  rifts  three  or  four  feet,  though  that  place  a^ 
600  miles  from  the  river's  mouth."  " 


320        MOORE'S  TRAVELS  into 

On  the  20th  of  November  in  the  evening  was  a 
total  eclipfe  of  the  mcx)n ;  and  the  Mundingoes  told 
me,  the  uarknefs  was  occattoned  by  a  cafs  putting 
her  paw  between  the  moon  and  the  earth.  The  Ma- 
hometans ill  th»  country  were  finging  and  dancing 
the  whole  time,  becaule  they  expert  their  prophet  to 
come  in  an  eclipfe. 

I  flayed  at  Yamyamaconda,  till  the  5th  oif  May, 
1734 -,  and  was  employed  in  the  company's  lervice 
in  different  parts  of  the  river  till  the  1  jih  of  July  fol- 
lowing, when  I  was  defired  to  comedown  to  James's 
Fort :  1  was  there  on  the  lith  of  Auguft,  when  the 
Dolphin  fnow  arrived,  with  four  writers,  and  Job 
Ben  Solomon,  on  board.  We  have  already  mention- 
ed his  being  robbed  and  carried  to  Joar,  where  he 
was  fold  to  captain  Pykc,  by  whom  he  was  carried  to 
Maryland.  Job  wiis  there  fold  to  a  planter,  with 
whom  he  bad  lived  about  a  twelvemonth,  in  all  which 
time  he  had  the  happinels  not  to  be  ilruck  by  his 
mall:er,  and  had  then  the  good  fortune  to  have  a  letter 
of  his  own  writing  in  the  Arabic  tongue  conveyed  to 
England.  This  letter  coming  to  the  hand. of  Mr. 
OgTethorp,  he  fL-nt  it  to  Oxford  to  be  tranflated^ 
which  being  done,  it  gave  him  fuch  fatisfa£tion,  and 
infpired  him  with  fo  good  an  opinion  of  the  author, 
that  he  immediately  Itrnt  orders  to  have  him  boughc 
of  his  mafler.  This  happened  a  little  before  that 
gentleman's  fetting  out  for  Georgia;  and  before  his 
return  from  thence,  Job  arrived  in  England-,  whcic 
being  brought  to  the  acquaintance  of  Sir  Hans  Sloane, 
he  was  found  ro  be  a  perfcft  maftcr  of  the  Arabic 
tongue,  by  his  iranllating  fcveral  manulcripts  and  in- 
fcriptions  on  medals.  I'hat  Icarntd  antiquary  recom- 
mended him  to  the  duke  of  Montague,  who  being 
pleafed  with  his  genius  and  capacity,  the  agrecable- 
nefs  of  his  behaviour,  and  the  fweetnefs  of  his  tem- 
per, introduced  him  to  court  -,  where  he  was  'gracioully 
received  by  the  roy  j1  family  and  moll  of  the  nobility, 

who 


the  Inland  Pans  of  AFRICA." 


who  honoured  him  with  many  marks  of  favour.  The 
African  company  and  the  diief  merchants  of  the  city 
ftrove  who  lliotild  oftendl  invite  him  to  their  tables. 
His  good  fenfc  engaged  their  eileem  •,  he .  freely  rtjf- 
courfed  on  every  fubje^l,  and  attended  the  churches 
of  the  moll  celebrated  divines.  When  he  had  been 
in  England  about  14  months,  his  ardent  dcfire  to  fee 
his  native  country  made  him  prefs  for  his  departure. 
He  had  wrote  from  England  to  the  high  priclt  his 
father,  and  earneftly  longed  to  fee  him.  Upon  his 
fcuinw  out  from  England,  he  received  many  noble 
prefents  from  queen  Caroline,  prince  William,  the 
duke  of  Montague,  and  the  earl  of  Pembroke,  fcveral 
ladies  of  quality,  Mr.  Holden,  and  the  royal  African 
company  -,  and  the  latter  ordered  all  their  agents  ta 
fhew  him  the  greateft  refpeft. 

On  iiis  arrival  at  James's  Fort,  Job  dcfired  that  I 
would  lend  a  raeflcnger  to  hi^;  country  to  let  his 
friends  know  where  he  was.  i  I'poke  to  one  of  the 
blacks  whom  he  ufually  employed,  to  procure  me 
a  meflengcr,  and  he  brought  me  a  i^holey,  who  not 
only  knew  the  high  prieft  his  ta:l)er,  but  Job  himfelfi 
and  expreflcd  great  joy  at  feeing  him  fafely  rL-turned 
from  fiavery  J  he  being  tlie  only  man,  except  one, 
ever  known  to  come  back  to  his  country,  after  being 
once  carried  a  flave  out  of  it  by  white  men.  Job  gave 
him  the  meffage  iiimfclf,  and  defired  that  his  father 
would  nor  come  down  to  him,  obicrvjng  that  k.was 
too  far  for  him  to  travel ;  and  that  it  was  ric  the  young 
(hould  go  to  the  old,  and  not  for  the  old  to  come  to 
the  young.  He  alio  fenr  fome  prefents  to  his  wives; 
and  dcfired  the  man  to  bring  his  little  one,  who  was 
his  belt  beloved,  down  with  him. 

Job  having  a  mitKl  to  go  up  to  Joar,  to  talk  with 
fome  of  his  countrymen,  went  along  with  me.  We 
arrived  at  the  creek  of  Damafenla ;  ami  having  fome 
old  acquaintances  at  the  town  of  that  name.  Job  and 
I  went  in  the  yawl;  in  the  way  goinu  up  a  narrow 
place  for  about  half  a  inilc,  we  faw  leveral  munkeys 

Vol.  VI.  Y  U 


322        MOORE'S  TRAVELS  into 

of  a  beautiful  blue  and  red,  which  the  natives  told 
me  never  fet  their  feet  on  the  ground,  but  live  en- 
tirely among  the  trees,  leaping  from  one  to  another, 
at  luch  grc.ttiillances,  as  would' appear  improbable 
to  any  but  an  cyt-winicfs. 

In  the  evening  as  my  friend  Job  and  I  wcie  fitting 
urn-lcr  a  great  tret  at  Uamafenia,  there  came  fix  or 
fevcn  of  tiie  very  people,  who,  three  years  before,  had 
roh'  ed  and  made  a  llavc  of  him,  at  about  30  miles 
diflance  from  ihat  place.  Job,  though  naturally  pof- 
fefTed  of  a  very  even  temper,  could  not  contain  him- 
fi.-lf  on  feeing  tht-m  :  he  was  filled  with  rage  and  in- 
dign:uiun,  and  was  for  attacking  them  with  his  broad 
fword  and  pil^ols,  which  he  always  took  care  to  have 
about  him.  I  had  much  ado  to  difiuade  him  from 
riifliing  upon  them  :  but  at  length  rcprcfenting  the 
ill  confcqiisnces  tliat  would  infallibly  attend  fo  rafh 
an  a£tion,  and  the  impoQibihty  that  either  of  us 
Ihould  el'cape  alive,  1  made  him  lay  afide  the  attempt, 
and  pcrftiading  him  to  fit  down,  and  pretending  not 
to  know  them,  to  aflc  them  queltions  about  himfclf  •, 
which  he  accordingly  did  -,  and  they  told  him  the 
tri;th.  Ac  lart:  he  etiqiiired  how  the  king  their  mafler 
d;d?  they  replied,  that  he  was  dead  ;  and  by  farther 
inqirry  we  found  that  amonglt  the  goods  for  which 
he  fold  Job  to  captain  PyUe  there  was  a  piftol,  which 
the  king  tjfed  commonly  to  wear  fiung  by  a  ftring 
abaut  his  nirck  ;  and  as  they  never  carry  arms  without 
their  being  loaded,  the  pillol  one  day  atcidentaliy 
wtnt  oir,  and  the  balls  lodging  in  his  throat,  he  pre- 
fiiuly  ditJ.  job  was  fo  tranfported  at  the  clofe  of 
this  U'jry,  that  he  ini;iiedi::Lcly  Jell  on  his  knees,  and 
reuiin.d  ir.Anks  to  Mahoiiiet  for  making  him  die  by 
the  very  t'oods  for  whidi  he  fold  him  into  flavcrv. 
'i  hen  returning  to  mc,  lie  tr'.ed,  "  You  lee  now,  Mr. 
MooiC,  that  tJod  Almighty  was  difplealcd  at  this 
m.-n's  making  m.-  a  ILive,  and  therefore  made  him 
die  by  the  vL;y  piRol  for  wliiLh  lie  iold  mc:  yet  I 
ouplit  10  lur^ivc  him,  b  caule  had  not  I  been  Ibid, 
1  Ibould 


the  InhnJ  Parts  of  AFRICA, 


1  fliould  neither  have  linmvn  any  thing  of  the  Englifli 
tongue,  nor  have  had  aiy  of  the  fine,  ufefiil,  and 
valuable  things,  I  have  brought  with  me;  nor  have 
known  th;it  there  is  fuch  a  p'ace  in  the_ world  a^  Eng- 
land 1  nor  fuch  noble,  gnod.  and  genirrt)us  pcoj'lc  as 
queen  Carohne,  prince  WTlilam,  the  duke  at  Mon- 
tagur,  che  earl  of  Pembroke,  Mr.  Holdt-n,  Mr. 
Oglethorpe,  and  the  royal  African  company." 

After  this  Job  went  frequently  with  me  to  Cower, 
and  fevcral  other  pla-res  about  the  country.  He  al- 
wjys  fpoke  very  haiiJfomely  of  the  EngliHi',  and 
whit  he  faid  removed  much  of  that  horror  th^-  Pho- 
leys  felt  for  the  (late  of  (l.ivery  amongfl:  the>"n.  Far 
they  before  generally  imagined,  that  all  wha  were 
I'uld  for  ^:lve^,  were  at  lealt  murdered,  if  not  eaten, 
fincc  none  ever  renirned.  His  drfcrjpriuns  alfj  gave 
them  an  high  opinion  of  the  power  of  England,  and  a 
veneration  for  the  Englith,  who  trjdcd  aniongit  them. 
He  fold  Jome  of  the  prefcnts  he  brought  with  him,  for 
trading  goods,  with  wjiich  he  bought  a  woman  (lave, 
and  two  horfcs,  which  he  dcfigned  to  take  v^idi  hini 
to  Bundo.  He  gave  his  countrymen  a  goDtl  deal  of 
writing  paper,  a  very  valuable  commodiry  aiiorgit 
them,  for  the  company  had  made  him  a  prcfcnt  of 
fever.ii  reams.  He  ufed  frequently  to  pray  ;  and  he 
behaved  with  great  afr'abilicy  and  mildncis  to  all,  which 
rendered  hiti  evtreamly  pi'pular. 

'i'he  meflcngcr  not  returning  fo  foon  as  w.is  expcft- 
ed,  Job  delirL'd  co  go  down  to  Jameses  Fort,  to  rake 
care  of  his  goods;  and  I  proniifcrd  iiOr  only  to  fcrld 
him  word  when  the  melTengcr  came  batk,  bur  to 
lend  other  mclTengcrs,  for  fear  the  tirlt  Uiould  have 
niifcirricd. 

At  length  the  mcflfengcr  irt'ime'i  with  feveral  let- 
ters, and  aJvi'  e  that  Job's  father  was  de.id  j  bur  haJ 
lived  to  receive  the  icners  his  fon  had  fcnt  hlrn  fro-ii 
En^ijand,  which  give  hiiO  the  W':!c3:i;e  ncw^  of  Kij 
being  redeemed  ri'om  fla/ery,  tind  ari  accounrof  ilic 
iigurc  lie  iViadc  in  Lngland  :  that  ortc  of  Job's  \viv.  s 
y  2  was 


324        MOORE'S  TRAVELS  itito 

was  married  to  another  man  -,  but  that  as  foon  ai  the 
new  hufband  had  heard  of  his  return,  he  thought  it 
adviieable  to  abfcond ;  and  that  fince  Job's  ablcncc 
from  his  native  country,  there  had  been  Inch  a  dread< 
ful  war,  that  the  Pliokys  there  tiad  not  one  cow  left, 
though  before  job's  departure  his  countrymen  were 
famed  for  their  numerous  herds,  Wich  this  mefleh- 
ger  came  many  of  Job's  old  friends,  whom  he  was 
exceeding  glad  to  fee ;  but  notwithflanding  the  joy 
their  prclciice  gave  him,  he  Hied  abundance  of  tears 
for  the  lofs  of  his  fjther,  and  the  misfortunes  of  his 
country.  He  forgave  his  wife,  and  the  man  who  had 
taken  her  J  *'  I-"or  Mr.Moorc,  faid  he,  (he  could  nothelp 
thinking  I  was  de^d  -,  for  I  was  gone  to  a  land  &on> 
whence  no  Pholey  ever  yet  returned ;  therefore  net 
iher  (he  nor  the  man  is  to  be  blamed."  During  thr?e 
or  four  days  he  convcrfcd  with  bis  friends  withoi^r 
any  interruption  except  to  fiecp  or  eat. 

As  I  have  brouglu  this  account  almoft  to  the  time 
of  my  leaving  this  country,  it  will  be  neceflary  to  give 
a  mure  particular  delcripiiun  of  it,  with  rcfpect  to  the 
climate,  the  general  cultoms  of  the  natives,  aod  the 
trade  carried  on  there. 

As  the  mouth  of  the  Gambia  lies  in  the  latitude  of 
13**  ao'  north,  and  in  15"  20'  weft  longitude,  there 
is  no  wonder  that  the  cHmace  is  exccflive  hot  $  but 
the  grcatetl  heats  arc  generally  about  the  latter  end 
of  May,  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  before  the  rainy 
fcafbn  begins.  The  lun  is  perpendicular  twice  in  the 
year,  and  the  days  are  never  bnger  from  fiin-rifing  to 
iun-fet  than  13  hours,  nor  ever  Iborter.  than  1.1. 
'What  at  firft  teemed  to  me  ftrange,  was  tliat  as  Ibbft 
as  it  grew  light,  the  fun  arofe,  and  it  no  fooner  fee 
than  it  grew  dark. 

The  rain.y  leafon  commonly  begins  wich  the  monthi 
of  June,  andcuminucs  liU  the  latter  end  of  Septem- 
her,  or  the  beginning  tif  Odober.  The  wind  comes 
fifil,  and  blows  excelTive  hard,  for  the  fpace  of  half 
an  hour  or  more,  before  any  rajataUs»  lb  that  a  vcflcl 


the  Inland  Parts  of  A  F  R 1 C  A- 


3«5 


may  be  fuddenly  furpriftd  and  overfet  by  it :  a  perlbn 
may  however  perceive  tlie  figns  of  its  coming ;  for 
the  clouds  grow  very  black,  and  the  iightenings 
Jarting  from  them,  have  an  awful  appearante.  Both 
the  thunder  and  the  lightening  are  exceeding  dread- 
ful; the  Rallies  fucceeding  each  other  fo  fwLftly,  as  to 
render  it  continually  light,  while  the  thunder  at  the 
Cime  time  (hakes  the  VLry  ground.  During  the  rain 
the  air  is  generally  cool;  but  the  fhower  is  no  foonfr 
over,  than  the  fun  breaks  out  cxceffive  hot,  which 
induces  fomc  people  to  caft  off  their  cloaihs,  and  lie 
down  to  llccp  1  but  before  they  are  awake,  another 
tornado  perhaps  comes,  when  the  cold  ftriltes  into 
their  very  bones,  and  gives  tlieni  fits  of  illnefs,  which 
to  the  Europeans  are  very  fatal.  During  the  rainy 
feafon  the  fca  breezes  feldom  blow-,  but  intlead  o£ 
them,  eafterly  winds,  which  in  the  months  of  Novem- 
ber, December,  January,  and  February,  generally 
blow  very  frelli,  and  fomctimes  the  evenings  and 
mornings  are  exceeding  cold,  and  the  tniddlc  of  the 
day  very  hot. 

Four  months  in  the  year  are  unkealthful,  and  very 
tedious  to  thole  who  come  from  a  colder  climate ;  but 
a  perpetual  fpring,  in  which  you  commonly  fee  ripe 
fruit  and  bloffoms  on  ihe  fame  tree,  makes  fome 
amends  for  that  inconvenience.  BeBde,  the  heat  of 
-  ^c  air  is  frequently  moderated  by  plcafant  and  refrefh- 
Img  breezes. 

,  The  Gambia  isof  fuch  a  length  as  to  be  navigable 
for' (loops  above  600  miles,  tht?  tides  reaching  To  far 
from  its  mouth.  The  land  on  each  fide  of  this  great 
and  fine  river  is  for  the  moft  part  flat  and  woody  about 
a  quarter  of  3  mile  beyond  its  banks  :  and  within  that 
fpace  arc  plealant  open  grounds,  on  which  the  natives 
ind  in  the  dry  fealbn  it  ferves  the  cattle 
Thus  within  land  it  is  generally  very 


plant  rice ;  ; 
for  pafture. 
woody  1  but  near  the  towns  there  is  always  a  large 


fpot  of  ground  cleared  for  corn.     Near  the  fca  no 


.-J^iUs  arc  to  be  fe^n  j  but  high  up  the 


river  a 

mountains. 


:  lofty 


3?6       MOORE'S  TRAVELS  into 

moiin:a'n<;.  Thcfc  are  chiefly  compoleil  of  iroo 
llone,  and  thougli  chcy  aic  fometimcs  little  clle  bur  a 
continue:'  harJ,  rock,  they  are  full  of  trees,  and  ferve 
greatly  to  btMiitify  the  iAcc  of  the  country. 

In  every  li!nj;.!om  there  are  feveral  pcrfons  called 
lords  of  the  foil,  who  have  the  property  of  all  the 
palm  and  palnictio  trees,  fo  that  none  are  alfowed  to 
draw  any  wine  from  them,  without  their  knowlcge 
and  conftnt.  Tliofc  who  obtain  leave  to  draw  wine, 
Gi%"c  two  days  produce  in  a  week,  to  the  lord  of  the 
^il ;  and  white  men  are  obliged  to  make  a  fmall  pre- 
fcnt  to  them,  before  they  cut  palmetto  leaves,  or  grafs, 
io  coyer  their  houfcs. 

The  palm  is  a  fine  ftraight  tree  that  grows  to  a  pro- 
digious height,  and  out  of  it  the  natives  cxtraft  a  fort 
of  white  lii^uor  like  whey,  called  palm  wine ;  by 
making  an  incifion  on  the  top  of  the  trunk,  to  which 
they  apply  gourd  boitles,  and  into  thefe  the  liquor 
runs  by  means  of  a  pipe  made  ofleaves.  This  wine 
is  very  'pleafant  as  foon  as  it  is  drawn,  it  being  extra- 
ordinary fwect ;  but  is  ap:  to  purge  very  much  :  how- 
ever, in  a  day  or  two  it  fcrnients,  and  grows  rough 
and  ftrong  like  Rhenifh  wine-,  when  nr,t  being  at  at[ 
prejudicial  to  the  health,  it  is  plentifully  drank  by 
the  negroes.  It  is  very  furprifing  to  fee  how  nimbly 
the  natives  will  go  up  thefe  trees,  which  are  fome- 
times6o,  70,  or  loo  feet  high,  and  the  bark  ftiiooth. . 
They  havi;  nothing  ro  help  them  to  ciimb,  but  apiece 
of  the  bark  of  a  tree  made  round  like  a  hoop,  with 
which  they  enclofe  themfclves  and  the  tree ;  then  fix- 
ing it  under  their  arms,  they  fet  their  feet  againft  the 
tree,  and  their  backs  againrt  th'e  hoop,  and  go  up 
very  fall:  but  fomctimcs  they  mifs  their  tooting  ;  or 
the  bark  on  which  they  nft  brc;!ks  or  comes  untiei), 
when  falling  down,  they  lofe  their  liics. 

The  ptopk*  here,  as  in  all  other  hot  countries, 
marry  their  daughters  very  young  i  even  fome  arc 
contraiSed  as  foon  as  they  are  born,  and  th?  parents 
(an  never  after  bre.-.k  the  match  j    but  it  is  in  the 

power 


the  Inland  Parts  of  AFRICA.  327 

power  of  the  man  never  to  comcand  claim  his  wife ; 
,and  yet  without  his  confent  fhe  cannot  marry  anotlicr. 
Before  a  man  takes  his  wife,  he  is  obligeJ  t;)  pay  lier 
parents  two  cows,  two  iron  bars,  and  200  coia,  a  fruit 
that  grows  a  great  way  wirhin  land :  it  is  an  exctc  iing 
good  bitter,  and  much  refembks  a  horfc-chelnut  wuti 
the  fkin  off. 

When  a  man  takes  home  his  wife,  he  makes  a  feaft 
at  his  own  houfc,  to  which  all  who  pleale  come  wirh- 
out  the  form  of  an  invitation.  The  bride  is  brought 
thither  upon  mens  Ihouldcrs,  wirh  a  veil  over  her 
face,  which  (he  keeps  on  till  (he  has  been  in  bed  with 
her  h'-ifhand,  during  which  the  people  dance  and  fing, 
bear  drums,  and  fire  mulkets. 

After  the  wife  is  brought  to  bed,-  (he  is  not  to  lie 
with  her  hufband  for  three  years,  if  the  child  lives  fo 
long  -,  for  during  ihat  lerm  the  child  fucks,  and  they 
arc  firmly  pcrfuadcd  that  lying  with  their  hii(btnds 
would  fpOil  their  milk,  and  render  the  child  liable  to 
mapy  difeafes.  The  woi  en  alone  are  fjbjei.'^  to  all 
the  mortifications  atrenJin^  (ij  long  an  abltinencfj 
for  every  man  is  alluwed  co  take  as  many  wives  as  he 
plcafcs ;  but  if  the  wife  is  foLind  falfe  to  h^r  hufnand, 
fhe  is  liable  to  be  fold  tor  a  (lave.  U'lOn  any  dillikf", 
a  mnn  may  turn  off  his  wiiV,  and  make  her  take  all 
her  children  with  her;  but  if  he  h^s  a  mind  to  t^ke 
any  of  them  himfelf,  he  gencrallv  rhufes  fiich  as  are 
big  enough  to  aflllt  him  in  providing  for  his  family. 
He  has  even  the  liberty  of  coming  Itv  nil  years  after 
they  have  parted,  and  taking  from  her  any  of  the 
children  he  had  by  her.  But  if  a  man  is  difpofed  to 
part  with  a  wife  who  is  pregnaa:,  he  cannot  oblige  her 
to  go  till  fhe  is  delivered. 

The  women  arc  kept  in  the  grcateft  fubjcftion-, 
and  the  men,  to  render  their  po.v.-r  as  coiiipWar  as 
poiTible,  influence  th.ir  wive:;  to  give  them  an  un- 
liniteil  obedience,  by  all  t!vj  force  of  fear  and  terror. 
■For  (his  purpofe  the  Mundinijnes  li^ve  a  kind  of 
'fringe  eight  or  nini  feet  liij/Ji,  iiiaiic  f f  ilyz  bark  of 
Y  4  trees. 


398       MOORE'S  TRAVELS  into 

trees,  drtfled  in  a  Icmg  cut,  and  crowned  widi  a  whtfp 
of  ftraw.  This  is  called  a  Mumbo  Jumbo ;  and 
whenever  the  men  have  any  difpute  with  the  women, 
this  is  fent  for  to  determine  the  conteft,  which  is  aU 
molt  always  done  in  favour  of  the  men.  One  who  is 
in  the  fccret,  conceals  himfelf  under  the  coat,  and 
bringing  in  the  image,  is  the  oracle  on  thefc  occafions. 
No  one  is  allowed  to  come  armed  into  his  preicnce. 
When  the  women  hear  him  coming,  they  ryn  ^way 
and  hide  Ehcmfelves  ■,  but  if  you  arc  acquainted  with 
the  pc^rfon  concealed  in  the  Mumbo  Jumbo,  he  will 
fend  for  them  all  to  come,  make  them  fit  down,  and 
afierwjrd  either  fmg  or  dance,  as  he  plcafesi  and  if 
any  refufe  to  come,  he  will  lend  for,  and  whip  them. 
Whenever  any  one  enicrs  inio  this  fociety,  they  fwear 
in  the  moft  Iblemn  manner  never  to  divulge  the  fec'ret 
to  any  woman,  or  to  any  perfon  that  is  not  entered 
into  it :  and  to  preftrve  the  fccret  inviolable,  no  boys 
^re  admitted  under  1 6  years  of  age.  The  people  alfo 
^fwear  by  the  Mumbo  Jumbo  -,  and  the  oath  is  efteem- 
ed  irrevocable.  There  are  very  few  towns  of  any 
fjote  that  have  not  one  of  thefe  objefts  of  terror,  to 
frighten  ihe  poor  women  into  obedience. 

About  the  year  1727,  the  king  of  Jagra  having 
9  very  inquifitive  woman  to  his  wil^e,  was  lb  weak  as 
to  dirdofc  to  her  this  fccret  -,  and  ihe  being  a  goHip, 
revealed  it  to  fomc  other  women  of  her  acquaintance. 
1'his  at  lall  coming  to  the  ears  of  ibme  who  were  no 
friends  to  the  king,  they,  dreading  left  if  the  aff«r 
fook  vent,  it  Ibould  put  a  period  to  the  fubje£tion 
of  pheir  wives,  took  the  coat,  put  a  man  into  it, 
and  going  to  the  king's  town,  fent  for  him  out,  and 
taxed  him  with  it :  when  he  not  denying  it,  they  fent 
for  his  wife,  and  killed  them  both  on  the  fpot.  Thus 
-the  poor  king  died  for  his  complaifance  to  his  wife, 
;uid  file  for  her  curiofity. 

The  women  pay  fuch  re^£t  to  their  hufbands,  that 
when  ^  ina|i  has  been  9.  d^^  pr  two  from  home  his 

wives 


the  Inland  Pans  of  AFRICA.     .    319 

wives  ililutc  him  oa  their  knees  ;  and  in  ihelkmc  pof- 
(ure  rhey  always  give  him  water  10  drink. 

When  a  child  is  new  born  they  dip  him  over  head 
and  cars  in  cold  water  three  or  tour  times  in  a  day; 
and  as  foon  as  he  is  dr)',  rub  him  over  with  palm  oil, 
particularly  the  back-bone,  the  I'mall  of  the  back,  the 
elbows,  neck,  knees,  and  hips.  When  they  are  bom 
iheyareofanolive  colour,  and  fometimes  donoctura 
black  till  they  are  a  month  or  two  old. 

I  do  not  find  that  they  are  here  born  with  flat  nofcs  ; 
but  the  mothers,  when  they  wafh  the  children,  prefs 
down  the  upper  part  of  the  nofc ;  for  large  breaits, 
thick  lips,  and  broad  noftrils,  are  efteemcd  cx- 
treamly  beautiful.  One  breait  is  generally  larger  than 
the  other. 

About  a  month  afterward  they  name  the  child, 
which  is  done  by  Ihaving  its  head,  and  rubbing  it 
over  With  oil ;  and  a  fliort  time  before  the  rainy  lea- 
fon  begins,  they  circumcife  a  great  number  of*  boys, 
of  about  12  or  14  years  of  age,  after  which  the  boys 
put  on  a  peculiar  habit;  the  drefs  of  each  kingdom 
being  different.  From  the  time  of  their  circumcifion 
to  that  of  the  rains,  they  arc  allowed  to  commit  what 
outrages  they  pleafe,  without  being  called  to  an  ac- 
count for  them;  and  when  the  firft  rain  falls,  die 
lerm  of  this  licentioul'ncfs  being  expired,  they  put  on 
their  proper  habiL 

The  people  are  naturally  very  jocofe  and  merry, 
and  Will  dance  to  a  drum  or  baJlafcu,  Ibmetimes  24 
hours  togedier,  now  and  then  djiicing  very  regu- 
larly, and  at  other  times  ufing  very  odd  gcftiircs, 
ftriving  always  to  outdo  each  other  in  niniblenefe  and 
adivity. 

The  behaviour  of  the  natives  to  ftrangers  is  redly 
not  fo  difagreeabte  as  people  arc  apt  to  imagine;  for 
when  I  went  through  any  of  their  towns,  they  olm^ft 
All  came  to  Ihakc  [lands  wj^h  ire,  except  fomc  of  the 
geg^^c^arw^  never  before  fccn  a  white  man. 


330        MOORE*s  TRAVELS  into 

ran  awsy  from  mc  as  fail;  as  they  could,  and  would  not 
by  any  nuans  be  perfuaded  to  come  near  me.  Sonic 
of  tht  men  invited  mc  to  their  houfcs,  and  brought 
their  wives  and  daughters  to  fee  me;  who  then  fat 
down  by  me,  and  always  found  fomething  to  wonder 
at  and  admire,  as  my  boots,  fpurs,  cloaths,  or  wig. 

Some  of  the  Mundingocs  have  many  (laves  in  their 
houfes ;  and  in  thcfe  they  pride  themfclves.  They 
live  fo  well  and  cafily,  that  it  is  fometimes  difficult 
to  know  the  flavcs  from  their  matters  and  mif- 
trcfles  1  they  bring  frequently  better  ctoathed,  efpe- 
cially  the  females,  who  have  fometimes  coral,  amber, 
and  filvtr,  about  their  wrifts,  to  the  value  of  20  or 
30 1,  ftcrling. 

In  almolt  every  town  they  have  a  kind  of  drum  of 
a  very  large  fize,  called  a  tangtong,  which  they  only 
bear  at  the  approach  of  an  enemy,  or  on  fome  very  ex- 
traordinary occafion,  to  call  the  inhabitants  of  the 
■neighbouring  towns  to  their  afliftance ;  and  this  in  the 
night-lime  may  be  heard  fix  orfeven  miles. 

There  was  a  cuftom  in  this  country  which  is  not 
thoroughly  repealed,  that-whatever  commodity  a  man 
fclls  in  the  morning,  he  may,  if  he  repents  his  bar- 
gain, go  and  have  it  returned  to  him  again,  on  his 
paying  back  the  money  any  time  before  the  fttting 
of  the  Ibn  the  fame  day.  Tliis  cuftom  is  ftill  in  force 
very  h  gh  up  the  rivtr ;  but  below  it  is  pretty  well 
worn  out. 

Whenever  any  faiflories  are  fettled,  itis  cuftomary 
to  put  the;;i,  a:ul  the  perions  belonging  to  them,  un- 
der the  ch.-TL^e  of  the  people  of  the  ncareft  large 
to^vn,  who  art:  obliged  to  take  care  of  it,  and  to  let 
none  impofc  upjn  the  wliite  men,  or  ufe  them  ill-, 
and  if  iiny  boiy  is  abiifcd,  he  muft  apply  to  the 
sicilde,  thL-luui  rn^m  of  the  town,  who  will  fee  that 
iuftice  is  duae  I;im.  This  man  is,  up  the  river,  call- 
ed ths  v.hiic  m.'.n's  king;  and  has  bi;fidc  very  great 
jwwcr.     Alnioft  every  town  has  two  common  fields, 

one 


the  InUnd  Parts  of  AFRICA.'  531 

;  for  their  corn  and  the  other  for  their  rice,  and 
*  he  appoints  the  labour  of  tht-  people  :  he  fees  that  the 
men  work  in  the  corn  fields,  and  the  women  and  girls 
in  the  rice  grounds,  and  afterward  divides  the  crop 
among  them.  He  likewifc  decides  all  quarrels,  and 
has  the  firft  voice  in  all  conferences  relating  to  any 
thing  belonging  to  the  town. 

The  trade  of  the  natives  confifts  in  gold,  flavcs, 
elephants  teeth,  and  bees-wax.  The  gold  is  finer 
than  fterling,  and  is  brought  in  fmall  bars,  big  in  the 
middle,  and  turned  round  into  rings,  from  10  to  40  s. 
each.  The  merchants  who  bring  this,  and  orher  in- 
land commodities,  arc  blacks  of  the  Mundingo  race, 
called  Joncoes,  who  fay,  that  the  gold  is  not  walhed 
out  of  the  fand,  but  dug  out  of  mines  in  the  moun- 
tains, (he  neareft  of  which  is  20  days  journey  up  the 
river.  In  the  country  where  ihc  mines  are,  they  fay 
there  arc  houfes  built  with  (lone,  and  covered  with 
terrafs  -,  and  that  the  Ihort  cutlaflVs  and  knives  of 
good  fteel,  which  they  bring  with  them,  are  made 
there. 

The  fame  merchants  ,bring  down  elephants  teeth, 
and  in  fome  years  (laves  to  the  amount  of  2000,  moft 
of  whom  they  fay  are  pnfoners  of  war  ;  and  bought 
of  the  different  princes  by  whom  they  are  taken.  The 
way  of  bringing  them  is,  by  tying  them  by  the  neck 
with  leather  thongs,  at  about  a  yard  diftancc  from 
cjch  other,  30  or  40  in  a  ftring,  having  generally  a 
bundle  of  corn,  or  an  elephant's  tooth  upon  each  of 
their  heads.  In  their  way  from  the  mountains  they 
travel  through  extenfive  woods  where  they  cannot 
for  fome  days  get  water;  they  therefore  carry  in  (kin 
bags  enough  to  fuppnrt  them  for  that  time.  I  cannot 
be  certain  of  the  number  ot  merchants  who  carry  on 
this  trade;  but  ihcrc  may  perhaps  be-  about  ico  who 
go  up  into  the  inland  country  with  the  goods,  which 
they  buy  from  the  white  men,  and  with  th'-m  pur- 
chafe,  in  various  countries,  gold,  flaves,  and  elephants 

teeth. 


332        MOORE'S  TRAVELS  into 

teeth.    They  u&  alTcs,-  as  weU  as  fljivcs,  in  carrying 
their  goad),  but  no  camels  nor  horfcs. 

BcQdc  the  Haves  brought  down  by  the  negro  mer- 
chants, there  are  many  bought  along  the  river,  who 
are  cither  taken  in  war  iikc  the  former,  or  condemned 
fat  crimes,  or  ftolen  by  the  pi-ople;  but  the  com- 
pany's fervants  never  buy  any  which  they  fufpeft  to 
be  of  the  laA  fort,  till  they  have  fent  for  the  alcalde, 
and  confuhed  with  him.  Since  this  flave  trade  has 
been  uled,  all  punilbmcnts  are  changed  into  flavery ; 
and  the  natives  reaping  advantage  from  fuch  condem- 
patioQs,  they  {train  hard  for  crimes,  in  order  to  obtain 
the  benefit  of  felling  the  criminal :  hence  not  only 
«nurder,  adultery,  and  theft,  ars  here  puniflied  by 
felling  the  malefactor;  but  every  trifling  crime  is  alfo 
.puniihed  in  the  fame  manner.  Thus  at  Cantore,  a 
,  man  feeing  a  tyger  eating  a  deer,  which  he  hlmfelf 

'  }iad  killed  and  hung  up  near  his  houfe.  Bred  at  the 

I  I  tyg-^  ^"^  unhappily  {hot  a  man  :  when  the  king  had 

I  not  only  the  cruelty  to  condemn  him  for  this  acci- 

I  dent;  bur  had  the  injufticc  and  inhumanity  to  order 

I  '  alfo  his  mother,  his  three  brothers,  and  his  three 

1  fillers,  to  be  fold.     They  were  brought  down  to  me 

I  at  Yamyamacunda,  when  it  made  my  heart  ache  to 

fee  theni ;  but  on  my  refufing  to  make  this  cruel  pur- 
ciiafe,  they  were  fent  farther  down  the  river,  and 
fold  to  Ibme  feparate  traders  at  Joar,  and  the  vile  ava-   . 
ricious  king  had  the  benefit  of  the  goods  for  which 
ihey  vKTe  ibid. 

Indeed  the  cruelty  and  villainy  of  fome  of  thefe 
princes  can  fcarcely  be  conceived.  Thus,  whenever 
the  king  of  Barfally,  Ibme  of  wliofc  villanies  I  have 
already  mentioned,  wants  goods  or  brandy,  be  fends 
to  the  governor  of  James's  Fort,  to  defire  him  to  fend 
.  a  {loop  there  with  a  proper  cargo  ^  which  is  readily 
complied  with.  Mean  while,  the  king  goes  and 
ranfacks  fome  of  his  enemies  towns,  and  feizing  the 
innocent  ptople,  fells  them  to  the  fa^rs  in  the  floop, 

for 


the  Inland  Parts  of  AFRICA." 


for  fuch  commodities  as  tie  wants,  as  brandy,  rutn, 
guns,  gunpowder,  ball,  piltols,  and  cutlafTcs,  for  hi* 
attendants  and  foldiers,  with  coral  and  fiivcr  for  his 
wives  and  concubines :  but  in  cafe  he  is  not  at  war 
with  any  neighbouring  king,  he  then  fails  upon  one 
of  his  own  towns,  which  are  very  numerous,  and  ufei 
them  in  the  fame  manner,  felling  thofe  for  (laves, 
whom  he  is  bound  by  every  obligation  to  proteft. 

Several  of  the  natives  of  ihefe  countries  have  many 
(laves  born  in  their  families.  Thus  there  i^  a  whole 
village  near  Brucoc  of  zco  people,  who  are  the  wives, 
flaves,  and  children  of  one  man.  And  though  in 
feme  parts  of  Africa  they  fell  the  Qaves  born  in  the 
family;  yet  this  is  here  thought  exirejmly  wicked  i 
and  I  never  heard  but  of  one  perfon  who  ever  fold  x 
femily  flavc,  except  for  fuch  crimes  as  would  have 
auihorifed  its  being  done,  had  he  bern  free.  Indeed, 
if  there  are  many  flaves  in  the  family,  and  one  of 
them  commits  a  crime,  the  mafter  cannot  fell  him 
without  the  joint  conlVnt  of  the  reft :  for  if  he  does, 
they  will  all  run  away  to  the  next  kingdom,  where 
they  will  find  proteftion. 

Ivory,  or  elephants  teeth,  is  the  next  principal 
article  of  commerce.  Thcfe  are  obtained  ciihcr  by 
hunting  and  killing  the  beads,  or  arc  picked  up  in 
the  woods.  This  is  a  trade  uled  by  all  die  nations 
hereabouts ;  for  whoever  kills  an  elephant,  has  the 
liberty  of  felling  him  and  his  teeth.  But  thole  traded 
for  in  this  river  are  generally  brought  from  a  good 
way  within  Und.  The  largelt  tooth  I  ever  faw  weighed 
130  pounds. 

The  founh  branch  of  trade  confifts  in  be«-wax. 
The  Mundingocs  make  beehives  of  ftrav  fiiapcii  like 
ours,  and  fixing  to  each  a  bottom  board,  in  whitK 
is  a  hnle,  for  the  bees  to  go  in  and  our,  liang  them 
on  the  boughs  of  trees.  They  rmochcr  the  bees  in 
order  to  take  the  combs,  and  prciTing  out  the  honty, 
kc  a  kind  of  methcgiia,  boil  up  the 


334       MOORE'8  TRAVELS,  &c. 

wax  with  water,  ftrain  ic,  and  prefs  it  through  hur 
cloths  into  hoks  made  in  the  ground. 

At  length,  on  the  8th  of  April  1735,  having  de- 
livered up  the  company's  eSc&s  to  Mr.  James  Conner, 
I  embarked  on  board  the  company's  Qoop.  Among 
other  perfons.  Job  came  down  with  me  to  the  Coop,  and 
parted  with  me  with  tears  in  tus  eyes  -,  at  the  fame 
time  giving  me  letters  to  the  duke  of  Montague,  the 
royal  African  company,  Mr.  Oglethorpe,  andfeveral 
other  gcndemen  in  England,  telling  me  to  give  his 
love  and  duty  to  them,  and  to  acquaint  them,  thac 
as  he  defigned  to  learn  to  write  the  Englllh  tongue, 
he  would,  whcnhewasmanerofit,  fend  them  longer 
epiftles.  Hedefired  me,  that  as  I  had  lived  with  him 
almofl:  ever  Eince  he  came  there,  I  would  let  his  grace 
and  the  other  gentlemen  know  what  he  had  done; 
and  that  he  was  going  to  tlie  gum  forell,  and  would 
endeavour  to  produce  fu  good  an  underflatidino;  be- 
tween the  company  and  the  Pholeys,  that  he  did  not 
doubt  but  that  the  £ngli[h  would  procure  the  gutn 
trade:  adding,  that  he  would  fpend  his  days .io  en- 
deavouring to  do  good  to  the  Englilh,  by  whom  he 
had  been  redeemed  from  flavery,  and  from  whom  he 
had  received  innumerable  favours. 

Soon  after  he  returned  on  ihoie,  while  I  fuled  to 
Kngland}  and  at  length,  on  the  ijih  of  July,  landed 
at  IJcal. 


[    335    ] 

THE 

TRAVELS 

O   F 

Sir     JOHN     CHARDIN 

T  H  ROUGH 

MINGRELIA  and   GEORGIA  into 
PERSIA.         • 

IT  may  not  be  amifs  to  obferve,  by  way  cf  preface, 
that  the  author  of  thefe  travels  was  a  gentleman 
of  a  good  family  in  France,  and  of  a  liberal  educa- 
tion. He  applied  himfelf  to  commerce  very  early, 
and  prolecuted  with  great  fiiccefs  the  moll  conlidcr- 
able  branch  of  foreign  trade,  that  of  dealing  as  a 
merchant  in  jewels,  which  he  underltood  pyfetUy, 
and  by  which  he  acquired,  with  an  unfpocted  cha- 
ra<5ter,  a  very  large  and  affluent  fortur.c.  We  made 
fcveral  cxcurfions  into  the  Eart,  by  diftlrent  roads  i 
and  refided  feveral  years  in  Ferfia;  had  very  great 
and  uncommon  opportunities  of  encring  deeply  into 
the  fubjcfls  of  which  he  has  treated,  and  d;gerted  his 
accounts  with  great  accuracy  and  perlpicuity  :  to  that 
they  have  been  eftecmed  not  only  here,  but  in  France, 
and  throughout  Europe  in  [general,  as  the  molt  perfect 
in  their  kind  that  havt:  hiihcrto  appeared. 

This  gentleman,  when  the  pcrlecucion  agpinft  liic 
Proteftaius  brolte  out  in  trance,  cam-j  over  liicixT, 
and  brought  with  him  great  riches.  He  was  received 
with  much  rcfpeft  at  court ;  and  king  Ch-iilcs  1!  as 
A  mark  of  his  favour,  btftowed  upon  hiai  m  i68^, 
the  honour  of  knighthood.    He  publ.Oied  th^  iint 

7 


336      CHARDIN**  TRAVELS  threugk 

edition  of  his  travels  in  our  language,  in  a  large  folio 
volume  i  but  they  have  been  fincc  feveral  timcS 
printed  with  many  corredl:ions,  great  improvements, 
and  confiderable  augmentations  in  French.  He  con- 
tinued to  refide  here,  and  purchafed  a  confldcrable 
eflate  ;  fo  that  in  the  reign  of  queen  Anne,  we  find 
him  frequently  mentioned  by  fuch  as  took  occalion 
to  fhew  how  much  the  wezlrh  of  England  was  im- 
proved, and  its  trade  incrcafed,  by  encouraging  fo- 
reigners of  the  Protcftant  religion,  to  come  and  lettlc 
amongft  us.  Sir  John  died  at  a  good  old  age,  in 
lyit.  He  left  behind  him  two^-fonsi  and  feveral 
daughters. 

I  Itrft  Paris,  fays  Sir  John,  on  the  1 7th  of  Auguft 
1671,  to  nfturn  to  Pcrfia,  where  the  late  king  had  by 
letters  patent  made  me  his  merchant,  and  ordered  mc 
to  procure  many  jewels  of  value,  his  majefty  having 
drawn  with  his  own  hand,  the  modeb  by  which  he 
would  have  ihem  fet.  Mr.  Raifin,  a  gentleman  trf" 
great  integrity,  who  had  been  my  companion  in  my 
former  travels,  engaged  again  in  this  trade.  We 
fpent  14  months  in  the  richeft  countries  of  Europe, 
in  fearch  of  the  largeft  ftones,  and  the  fineft  wrought 
corals.  "We  caufcd  to  be  made  the  richeft  goldfmith'i 
work,  watches,  and  curious  clocks ;  and  befide,  took 
with  us  12,000  ducats  in  gold. 

We  travelled  by  tlie  way  of  Milan,  Venice*  and 
Florence ;  and  arriving  at  Leghorn,  embarked  In  « 
fhip  under  a  Dutch  convoy,  and  failed  to  Smyrna  1 
which  we  reached  on  the  2d  of  March  1672,  and 
12  days  after  arrived  at  Conftantinoplc.  In  this  city 
we  remained  four  months :  but  in  the  mean  while 
there  happening  a  quarrel  between  the  grand  vizier 
and  the  French  ambaflador,  a  report  was  fpread,  that 
the  former  intended  to  arreft,  not  only  the  ambaflMor, 
but  all  of  the  French  nation  in  that  city  v  when  being; 
afraid  that  our  goods,  which  were  very  rich,  would 
be  fetzed,  we  endeavoured  by  all  poSible  means  to 
leave  Confiantint^le,  and  to  proceea  on  our  jamntj  , 


MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA. 


to  Perfia.  The  caravans  in  thofe  hoc  months  did 
not  travel ;  but  the  porte  being  about  to  fend  a  new 
commander  with  foidicrs,  and  the  annual  lupply  of 
money  to  the  fort  of  Azoph,  on  the  lake  Moeotis, 
wc  obtained  a  paflage  in  a  Turkifli  faick  belonging 
to  the  fleet;  and  on  the  27th  of  July  embarked  at  a 
port  in  the  Thracian  Bolphorus. 

On  the  3d  of  Auguft  in  the  morning;,  we  arrived 
St  CafFa,  a  port  in  the  Tauricus  Chcrlbnefus,  a  pe~ 
ninfula  fo  called,  from  its  being  firft  inhabited  by  the 
Scythians  of  mount  Taurus.  It  is  35  leagues  from 
north  to  fouth,  and  55  from  eafl  to  weft.  But  the 
ifthmus  that  joins  it  to  the  continent  is  not  above  a 
league  in  breadth.  It  ts  inhabited  by  the  Crim 
Tartars,  who  dwell  in  cities  and  towns,  while  iheir 
neighbours  the  Nogays  and  Calmucs,  dwell  in  tents, 
as  the  reft  do  on  the  continent. 

From  Caffa  to  the  ftreights  that  open  into  the  bkc 
McBotis  is  )2o  miles.  The  country  on  both  fides  is 
fubjeift  to  the  Turks,  and  thinly  inhabited  by  the 
Tartars,  almoft  all  the  coaft  being  dcfart.  From  the 
ftreighi  to  Mingrclia  is  reckoned  600  miles  along  the 
fhore,  which  confifts  of  pleafant  woods,  thinly  inha- 
bited by  the  Circafiian  Tartars,  who  are  neither  fub- 
jcft  nor  tributary  to  the  porte.  The  velTels  that  come 
from  Conftantinople  to  Mingrelia  trade  with  this  peo- 
ple, but  do  it  with  their  arms  in  their  hands,  and  by 
hoftagesi  for  they  are  remarkable  for  their  infidelity 
and  perfidioufnefs,  and  feldom  fail  to  lieal  wherever 
they  find  an  opportunity,  1  he  traJe  with  them  is 
carried  on  by  exchange  ;  the  CircaiTians  bringing  dowa 
flaves  of  all  ages  and  lexes,  honey,  wax,  leather, 
jackals  and  the  Ikins  of  fome  bcalb,  for  fuch -com- 
modities as  they  want. 

CircaHia  is  3  pleafant  and  fertile  country  that  pro- 
duces great  plenty  of  all  forts  of  fruit  witiiout  labour, 
as  appirs,  j'ears,  cherries,  and  walnuts  j  hut  the 
chief  wealth  of  the  inhabitants  tonfirts  in  entile,  as 
Oieep,  whofc  wool  is  as  fine  is  tiat  of  Spain,  deer. 

Vol.  VI.    ^  Z  gcats, 


33S    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  ttnragh 

goats,  and  wcll-fliaped  horfes,  fo  fwifc  and  ftrong^- 
that  they  will  tire  wild  bcafts,-  and  ovenake  them  in 
the  cha^.  They  fow  no  grain  but  millet  for  their 
bread,  and  barley  for  their  horfes,  and  their  women 
till  and  manure  the  ground.  Their  drink,  is  water 
and  boza,  which  is  a  Tiqu^jr  made  of  millet,  as  intoxi- 
cating 35  w.ne.  They  live  in  wooden  huts,  and  go 
almolt  nakid.  TheJ/  beds  use  made  of  fbeep-fldns 
fcwcd  together^  and  ilufFed  with  millet  leaves  beaten 
in  the  chralhing  as  fmall  as  oat  chaff.  They  were 
formerly  Chriflians:  but  are  now  of  no  religion,  except 
obferviiig  fome  fuperllitious  ceremonies  borrowed 
from  tnc  Chrillians  and  Maliomcians  ;  and  they  are 
all  fworn  enemies  to  thofe  who  live  in  the  provinces 
rowml  abo'jtthem. 

1  he  A''.cas  border  upon  the  Circaffians,  and  pof- 
fc'fs  about  lOo  mites  un  the  coad  between  Mingrelia 
and  CircaCTia.  They  are  nut  fu  lavage  as  the  Circaf- 
iians;  but  arc  as  much  inclined  to  robbery.  They, 
like  their  neighbours,  are  in  want  of  all  the  conve- 
niencies  of  life,  and  ha%'e  nothing  to  exchange  for 
them  but  hun:an  creatures,  furs,  the  (kins  oi  deer 
and  tygers,  box-wood,  wax,  and  honey. 

The  inhibiianis  of  Caucafus  who  border  upon 
Colchis  arc  the  Alancs,  Suanes,  Gigues,  Caracioles 
or  Cara-chcrks,  that  is,  Black  CircalTians,  fo  called 
by  the  Turks,  not  from  ilu-ir  complexion,  for  they 
trc  elleemed  the  fairell  people  upon  the  earth ;  but 
from  their  countiy,  which  is  always  darkened  with 
clouds  and  fogs.  I  hey  wire  anciently  Chriftijns,  but  ' 
now  live  by  robbery  and  rapine,  and  profefs  no  reli- 
gion, having  little  beiiJc  fpcLch  that  can  tmitie  cheia 
to  humanity. 

Mount  Cau.-sfus  produces  a  great  number  of  wild 
iiea-1s,  as  l.ojis,  ty^crs,  leoparJs,  jackals,  and 
wolves;  which  Li':  ira!^e  rrcat  havo. k  amungll  their 
c^tclf  and  horf/E,  ;ii  d  ijcquintiy  difiurb  the  inha- 
bitants in  their  houfs  wi:h  their  die.idful  howt^ngs. 
,They  have  grtat  numbtis  of  very  good  iiurfcs,  almoft 
.    every 


MINGRELIA  iiito  PERSIA;        339 

tjery  man  keeping  feverjl  of  them ;  for  they  coft 
little  or  nothing,  as  they  neither  flioe  them  nor  feed 
them  with  corn.  They  .have  no  cities  nor  towns, 
except  two  by  the  fea  fide;  but  their  houfes  are  fo 
fcattered  up  the  country,  that  you  can  hardly  travel 
a  mile,  without  feeing  three  or  four  of  them;  '  There 
are  nine  or  ten  caftles  in  the  countryi  the  chief  of 
■which  where  the  prince  keeps  his  court,  is  called 
Rocs.  This  caftle  has  a  (tone  wall  1  but  it  is  fo  fmallj 
and  (o  ill  built,  that  it  might  be  battered  down  by 
the  leaft  piece  of  artillery:  it  has,  however,  fomc 
cannon,  which  the  other  callles  have  not.  They  are 
made  in  the  following  manner :  in  the  midft  of  3 
thick  wood  the  people  build  a  ftone  tower  30  or  40 
feet  high,  capable  of  containing  50  or  60  pcrfons. 
This  tower  is  the  place  of  ftrengch,  where  they  (hut 
up  all  the  riches  of  the  lord,  and  of  thofc  who  put 
ihemfelves  under  his  protcftion.  Near  this  tower 
are  five  or  fix  others  of  wood,  which  fcrve  for  ma- 
gazines of  provifions,  and  as  places  of  retreat  for  the 
wives  and  children,  in  cafe  of  an  attack.  There  ars 
alfo  levcral  huts  made  of  wood,  others  of  branches  of 
trees,  and  others  of  canes  and  reeds.  The  area  ia 
ivhich  they  arc  enclofed  is  furrounded  by  a  clofe  hedge, 
and  by  a  wood,  which  is  every  where  to  thick,  that  it 
is  impofiible  to  find  thefe  retreats  but  by  the  way  cut 
to  them,  which  is  flopped  up  by  trees,  whenever  they 
apprehend  the  approach  of  an  enemy. 
.  The  men  are  well  ihaped,  and  the  women  fo  hand- 
fome,  that  they  feem  born  to  infplrelove;  yet  they 
all  paint  their  faces,  and  particularly  tht:ir  eyebrows. 
They  drefs  themfclves  in  as  ornamental  a  manner  as 
they  can,  wearing  a  Perfian  habir,  and  curling  the 
hair.  They  are  witty,  civil,  and  full  of  coin;^!:- 
ments:  but,  on  the  other  lund,  an;  proud,  deceit- 
ful, cruel,  and  libidinous.  The  men  have  alfo  i:i:i:,y 
mifchievous  qudiiies;  but  thic  whicli  tlicy  [riQ;t 
prat^ile  is  theft;  and  this  rlicy  niske  their  e.Ti;)l-.)y- 
ment  and  glory.     They  juiUiy  :hc  iava'alncls  of  ha^'- 


340    CHARDIN»s  TRAVELS  througfi 

ing  TTiiny  wives,  by  faying  chat  they  bring  them 
many  children,  which  they  can  fell  for  ready  money^ 
or  exchange  for  neceflary  convenicncics ;  yet  when- 
they  have  not  the  means  of  fupporting  them,  they 
hold  it  apiece  of  charity  to  murder  new- bom- infants, 
and  fuch  perfens  as  are  Tick  and  paft  recovery,  becaufe 
by  this  means  they  free  them  from  milery, 

Mingrelia  is  but  thinly  peopled,  which'  is  occa- 
fioned  by  their  wars,  and  the  vaft  numbers  fold  by 
the  nobility  to  the  Perfians  and  Turks.  All  their 
trade  is  carried  on  by  the  way  of  barter}  for  their 
money  Has  no  fettled  value.  The  current  fpecie  are 
piallres,  Dutch  crowns,  and  abaflis,  which  are  made- 
in  Georgia,  and  bear  the  Perfian  ftamp. 

Their  marriages  are  a  contract  by  way  of  bar^in- 
and  falc;  for  the  parents  agres  upon  the  price  with 
the  perfon  who  defires  her ;  and  here  the  price  of  ft 
woman  who  has  been  divorced  is  the  loweft ;  for  a 
widow  more  is  demanded  ;■  but  for  a  maid  moft  of 
all.  When  the  bargain  is  once  made,  the  young  man 
may  keep  company  with  the  woman  till  the  money 
is  paid ;  and  it  is  no  fcandal  if  flie  is  with  child  by 
him.  If  any  one  has  married  a  barren  woman,  or  one 
of  an  ill  difpofition,  they  hold  it  not  only  lawful,  but 
requifite  to  divorce  her. 

The  ncigiibourmir  nations  live  and  aft  in  abnoft  att 
refpeds  after  the  fame  manner ;  only  thofe  who  live- 
near  Pcrfia  and  Turky  arc  more  civilized. 

The  people  of  Guriel,  Mingrelia,  and  Abcj^  were  • 
fiibjfft  to  the  king  of  Imcrctta,  after  they  had  all  four 
freed  themfelves  from  the  power  of  the  empCBOrs,  firft 
of  Conltantinople,  and  then  of  Trebifond  t  but  ia 
tite  laft  century  fetiing  up  for  themfelves,  they  be- 
cafT.c  involved  in  continual  wars;  till  calling  in  ths; 
afTitlance  of  ibe  Turks,  they  were  all  made  tributary 
to  them.  The  king  of  Imeretta  pays  a  tribute  of  80 
boys  and  girls  from  10  to  20  years  of  age.  The 
prince  of  Guriel  pays  46  children  of  both  fexes,  and 
liic  prir.ce  of  Mingrelia  60,000  ells  of  linon  dothmade 


"MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA, 


in  that  country.     The  Abcas,  however,  feldom  paid 
any  diing  atfirft,  and  now  pay  nothing. 

As  foon  as  our  veiTcI  had  entered  the  road  of 
Jfgaour,  I  landed  with  the  Greek  merchant  who  cpn- 
duded  mc,  with  the  hopes  of  finding  houfes,  fomc 
provifions  and  alTiftance;  but  I  was  much  deceived. 
The  inhabitants  had  fenced  round  a  place,  too  paces 
'from  the  fiiorc,  25©  long,  and  50  broad;  this  was 
the  grand  market  of  Mingrelia.  It  had  a  ftreetform- 
■cd  of  about  100  little  huts  oa  each  fide-i  built  of 
branches  of  trees  tied  together.  Each  merchant  took 
one,  in  which  he  lay,  and  there  fold  fuchcorr.modi- 
tics,  as  he  hoped  to  difpofc  of  in  two  or  three  days 
time  :  thofe  they  bought ;  and  thofc  they  h^d  no  pro- 
bability of  felling  immediately,  were  kept  on  board 
■the  ftiips.  No  refrefhments  were  to  be  had  in  the 
market,  nor  was  there  a  pcafant's  houfc  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood. At  this  I  was  equally  furprifed  and 
efflidted,  for  our  provifions  were  almoft  confumed, 
■and  nothing  was  10  be.fold  by  the  natives,  but  flaves 
chained  together.  There  -were  about  a  dozen  naked 
wretches,  who  with  their  bjws  and  arrows  in  their 
hands  ftruck  every  one  with  terror :  thefe  were  the 
officers  of  [he  cuftoms.  But  my  furprife  and  affliftion 
were  much  encreafcd,  on  my  being  informed  that  the 
Turks  and  the  prince  of  Guriel  had  taken  up  arms 
Againft  the  Mingrelians,  and  begun  the  war  by  pKin- 
■dering  the  houfes  of  their  neighbours,  and  carrying 
■off"  them,  and  their  catilc,  wherever  ihey  found  them. 

On  my  taking  the  refoliition  to  go  into  Mingrelia, ' 
I  bad  depended  greatly  on  the  I'hcJtinc  miffionaries, 
■who  have  a  houle  40  miles  by  land  from  Ilgaour, 
■where  I  was  told  I  might  live  in  fafety,  and  iha:  they 
would  fpeedily  procure  me.ipaflage  into  Perfia.  J 
therefore  lent  an  exprtfs  with  a  letter  to  the  prefect  qf 
the  milfion,  and  returned  on  bo.ird  much  dejeiflcd. 

Two  days  atwr,  anumbcr  of  peafants  who  tied  from 

«he  enemy  palTed  by  Ilgaour,  and  railed  a  great  alarm  ^ 

■by  rcporUDg  that  the  Abcas,  whom  the  prince  ot 

Z  3  Mingrclir 


342    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  through 

Mingrelia  had  called  to  his  affiftance  againft  the 
Turks,  plundered  and  burnt  every  thing  before 
them  i  and  carried  otF  all  the  men  and  beafts  that  fell 
into  their  hands  :  adding,  that  they  were  already  near 
the  port.  All  were  now  in  a  hurry  to  carry  their 
elFeifts  on  board.  Es^h  of  the  commanders  of  the 
fliips  landed  two  pieces  of  cannon,  and  the  men  were 
under  arms  all  night :  but  the  next  day  they  reim- 
barked,  chuling  raiher  to  abandon  the  wool,  fait, 
earthen  ware,  and  other  nierchandife,  they  had  not 
been  able  to  bring  on  board,  than  to  cxpbfe  them- 
felvcs  to  the  danger  of  falling  into  the  hands  of  the 
Abcas,  About  lo  at  njghr,  we  faw  all  the  market 
in  a  fiame ;  and  the  next  morning,  fome  men  land- 
ing, they  found  hothing  but  the  remains  of  the  conr 
flagration- 

I  now  endeavoured  to  buy  from  the  matters  of  the 
{hips  as  much  providons  as  poOible  ;  but  all  I  coula 
purchafe  from  the  fcveral  merchants  was  6o  pounds 
of  liifcuit,  a  little  pulfe,  8  pounds  of  butter,  and  iz 
pounds  of  rice.  This  was  but  little  for  fix  perfons  ; 
but  good  management  made  it  laft  longer  than  I  could 
have  in-igined.  We  had,  however,  dried  filh  in 
abundance,  and  fcarcely  cat  any  thing  elfe.  I  was  won- 
derfully delighred  v/Iieii  I  had  prevailed  on  my  men 
to  make  a  meal  without  bread. 

Ac  length  hearing  no  news  of  the  prefeift,  and  not 
being  able  to  gucfs  the  reafon,  I  informed  my  men  of 
the  iicceflity  we  were  under  that  one  of  them  Ihould 
go  to  him  ;  becaufc  none  but  he  could  fecure  us  from 
the  evils  with  which  we  were  threatened,  or  deliver 
us  from  thofe  we  endured,  and  that  were  encreafing 
every  day.  Mv  valet  offered  to  undertake  th6 
journey,  I  therefore  gave  him  letters  and  prefents 
for  the  prcfiid  and  his  brethren,  and  he  fet  out  oi^ 
this  expedition. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  Oftober  my  valcf 
returned,  bringing  with  hijn  the  prcfeft,  who  wis  A 
.lative  of  Mantua,  called  Don  Maria  Jofcph  Zampy. 

1  im- 


MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA.      34} 

1  immediately  ran  to  embrace  him,  when  he  cried, 
*•  God  forgive  thofc  who  have  ^dvifed  you.  Sir,  to 

■come  hither :  you  are  arrived  at  the  m  oft  barbarous 
country  in  the  world  ;  and  the  b-ft  ft'^p  you  can  take, 
is  to  return  to  Confta'itinople  by  ihi.'  firfb  opportu- 
nity." The  joy  we  ha;l  conceived  ai  feeing  this  prieft 
was  damped  by  his  dil'courlc.  "A  took  him  into  my 
cabin,  and  there  with  my  comrade  deliber.ited  on 
what  was  to  be  done.  He  told  us  that  he  was  come 
to  ferve  us  to  the  utmoft  of  his  power ;  that  he  would 
take  us  to  his  houfe  if  we  delired  it :  but  that  he  had 
no  bread  j  that  now  no  provifions  were  to  be  had ;' 
that  the  air  of  the  country  was  unhealthy,  and  the 

riople  more  wicked  than  it  wa>  poUible  to  imagine, 
told  him  that  I  had  a  letter  of  recnmmendaiion  to 
the  prince  of  Mingrelia  :  but  he  replied  that  h?  was 
as  great  a  villain,  and  as  bafe  a  robber  as  any  of  his 
fubjefls :  and  then  added,  that  if  after  this  notice  I 
was  refolvcd  to  venture,  he  would  do  all  in  his  power 
to  prefcrve  our  perfons  and  baggage,  and  procure  us 
a  fafe  palTagc  into  Perlia. 

I  did  not  ftay  to  deliberate  on  what  the  father  had 
reprefenced  :  the  evils  v.ith  which  I  was  threatened 
in  Mingrelia  were  fuLure,  and  I  hoped  to  avoid 
them  :  but  thofe  I  fuffered  were  prefent ;  they  filled 
my  imagination,  and  my  heart  funk  under  them.  I 
therefore  rcprefcnted  to  him,  that  whatever  misfor- 
tunes might  happen  to  us  in  Mingrelia,  they  muft  be 
lefs  than  thofe  of  returning  to  CaFa,  by  which  we 
oiuft  infallibly  periflii  and  this  opinion  I  ftrcngthensd 
by  many  reai'ons.  He  was  foon  convinced  by  my 
arguments,  and  now  only  confulted  on  the  manner 
in  which  we  Ihould  travel.  The  barque  wherein  he 
had  come  down  the  river  wich  my  valet,  was  proper 
for  ourpurpCi*e.  I:  was  freighted  for  gclng  and 
coming.  Vv'c  therelore  emnarked  in  11  w;th  ail  our 
baggage,  and  I  gave  tne  value  of  100  crov/ns  in  gootis 
tp  father  Zampy,  wiio  knew  the  price  fct  upon  ir, 
jind  was  to  buy  it  for  me.  The  baggige  being  em- 
Z  4  barked 


344    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  through 

barked  before  noon,  we  immediately  fee  fail.  I  was 
filled  with  joy  at  leaving  the  Ihip,  where  I  could  noi 
endure  the  ftink,  nor  b^r  the  fight  of  ±e  infamoiis 
commerce  carried  on  in  it.  It  was  become  a  prifon 
for  flaves,  in  which  the  men  and  boys  were  chained 
two  and  two  every  night,  and  loofened  every  morn- 
ing. The  war  of  Mingrclia  was  of  advantage  to  our 
merchants,  who  bought  the  booty  and  flaves  taken 
by  the.Abcas,  who  were  now  continually  coming 
onboard,  to  exchange  them  for  arms,' cloaths,  and 
other  commodities.  A  Greek  merchant  whofe  cabbin 
was  next  to  mine,  bought  a  woman  and  Wrr  fucking 
child  for  i2  crowns.  The  woman  was  25  years  <rf 
age  :  her  face  was  extreamly  beautiful :  her  ikin  had 
the  whiccnefs  of  the  lilly  -,  and  I  never  faw  a  finer 
breaft  or  a  rounder  neck.  This  lovely  woman  filled 
me  at  the  fame  time  with  fuch  envy  and  cothpaffion, 
that  giving  her  a  dcjcftcd  look,  I  faid  to  myfeif,  Un^ 
happy  beauty,  thou  tliouldeft  not  create  thcie  unealjr 
fenfaiions  was  I  in  another  ftace,  and  did  I  not  fina 
myfelf  on  the  point  of  falling  into  greater  miferies,  if 
there  can  be  greattr,  than  that  of  being  a  flavci 
What  furprifed  me  moll,  was  to  fee  that  thefc  miter" 
able  creatures  were  not  dejcifted,  and  that  they  ap- 
peared infenfible  of  the  mifcry  of  their  condition.  A3 
foon  as  they  were  bought,  their  rags  were  taken  off  j 
they  were  drefled  in  new  linen  habits,  and  fet  ta 
work;  the  men  and  boys  in  doing  fomething  about 
the  (hip,  and  the  women  in  fewing. 

But  to  proceed  :  we  had  a  pretty  good  wind,  and 
our  little  barque  advanced  both  with  fails  and  oars." 
During  the  voyage,  I  agreed  with  father  Zampy  on 
the  means  to  prevent  our  falling  into  the  hands  of  thi 
enemy,  and  of  being  neither  plundered  nor  aflaflinated 
by  the  Mirgrelians.  ■  ■  ■■ 

At  midnight  wc  arrived  at  the  entrance  of  the 
■  Aftolphus,  one  of  thegreatett  rivers  in  Mingrclia,' 
and  called  by  the  natives  Langur ;  where  ftoppingi 
we  fent  two  of  our  mariners  to  Anarghia,  to  inquire 
I,.  .   .       ^      ,        -   aftcf 


MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA. 


iifter  the  enemy,  and  to  fee  if  the  inhabitants  had  not 
fled.  Anarghia  is  a  village  two  miles  from  the  fea, 
fend  the  moft  confiderabic  place  in  all  Mingrelia.  Ic 
confilYs  of  about  I  GO  houfes ;  but  they  are  fo  far 
diftant  from  each  other,  that  it  is  two  miles  from  the 
firft  to  the  laft.  There  are  always  Turks  in  that  vil- 
lage to  purchafe  flaves,  and  barques  to  carry  them 
off.  It  is  faid  to  be  built  on  the  place  where  anciently 
ftood  the  great  city  of  Heraclea. 

The  next  morning  before  day,  the  two  mariners 
returned  with  the  news  that  the  Abcas  had  been  no 
Bearer  than  within  15  miles  of  Anarghia,  and  that 
every  thing  there  was  as  ufual.  Father  Zampy  caufed 
the  men  to  row  hard,  in  order  to  arrive  early  at  that 
village,  that  we  might  all  land  without  being  feen. 
This  happened  according  to  our  wilhes.  We  went 
to  lodge  with  a  peafant  who  had  the  belt  accommo- 
dations of  any  in  the  place;  and  as  we  had  many 
chcfts,  the  largefl  of  which  was  full  of  books,  father 
Zampy  advifed  me  to  open  it  as  foon  as  we  were  at 
our  lodgings,  under  the  pretence  of  looking  fni  fome- 
thing,  to  prevenf  their  imagining  that  thefe  chefts 
were  filled  with  treafures  :  he  at  the  fame  time  pro- 
pofed  my  pretending  to  be  a  religious,  and  that  we 
had  brought  nothing  with  us  but  books.  I  followed 
this  advice.  The  people  of  the  houfe  were  aftonithed 
at  feeing  fo  large  a  cheft  thus  filled-,  and  I  believe 
imagined  that  the  contents  of  the  others  were  the 
fame. 

.  On  the  9th  of  October  a  lay  Theatine,  who  wa5 
phyfician  and  furgeon  to  all  Mingrelia,  came  to  fee 
us.  The  accel's  which  his  art  gave  him  to  the  houfes 
of  the  prince  and  of  all  the  great,  had  raifed  his  va- 
nity. I  received  and  treated  him  in  a  manner  that 
flattered  his  pride;  and  in  return  he  gave  me  a  thou- 
fand  afflirances  of  his  proteftion  and  afliftance.  Some 
days  after  he  came  to  inform  us  that  the  Abcas  had 
returned  home ;  and  had  carried  off  1 200  perfons, 
hiuch  cattle,  and  a  great  booty.  He  then  told  father 
Zampy 


S46    CHARDIN'«  TRAVELS  tfann^h 

Zampy  that  we  might  all  go  to  their  houfe  at  Sipias^ 
and  that  the  prince  and  catholicos  had  ordered  him  to 
tell  me  and  my  comrade,  that  we  were  welcome,  and 
thai  they  would  grant  us  men  and  horfes  to  conduA 
us  into  Georgia.  Upon  receiving  this  agreeable  news, 
wc  rcrlolved  to  fee  out  the  next  day. 

Vv  hile  we  (laid  at  Anarghia  we  had  no  fcarcity  of 
provifions,  but  had  plenty  of  fowl,  hogs,  and  goats, 
which  my  men  exchanged  for  needles,  thread,  combs, 
and  knives.  We  had  every  thing  very  cheap  ;  and 
this  being  the  time  of  vintage,  we  had  wine  in  plenty, 
and  nothing  was  fcarce  but  bread.  There  was  a 
w'dow  larly  of  quality  at  Anarghia,  whofe  hulband 
had  been  vizir  to  the  prince,  father  Zampy  con- 
duced me  to  her,  and  I  made  her  a  prefent  of  fomc 
iriflei.  In  order  to  obtain  others,  Ihe  fent  me  every 
day  a  cake  of  bre:id  that  weighed  about  half  a  pound, 
with  fo.rc  other  refrclhments.  Thus  one  day  me  fent 
a  hog,  another  day  a  cake  of  wax,  another  fome  ho- 
ney, another  a  pheafant ;  and  on  fending  thele  fiie 
always  begged  for  fome  trifles,  as  knives,  fciflars, 
and  ribbons  :  ihe  made  me  pay  double  the  price  of 
her  prefenis.  One  day  Ilie  paid  me  a  vilir,  when  Ihc 
y>is  exireanily  obliging,  but  mad-^  many  demands. 

Fathi-r  Zampy  made  .uc  pafs  for  a  capuchin,  ob- 
ferving,  that  I  ihouU  meet  with  fame  of  that  order 
ill  Georgia.  To  fupport  this  chara£ter,  I  dreffcd  as 
meaniy  as  polTible,  and  affefted  poverty  on  all  occa^ 
fions.  1  adled  my  part  well  enough  ;  but  the  conduct 
pf  my  fervants  prevented  my  impofing  on  the  pco* 
pie  :  for  they  broke  all  my  meafures  by  their  cookery, 
and  bought  the  greatcft  delicacies,  let  them  coft  whae 
,  they  would. 

On  the  lijth  the  princefs  of  Mingrelia  came  to  the 
Thea^il^cs.  J-he  was  on  horfeback  attended  by  about. 
.,'ea  me;i  and  eijjht  women,  very  badly  cloathcd,  and 
iil  moL'.:ued,  \v:t!i  feveral  men  on  foot  who  (tood 
;-.b;>ut  hi-.'  hcife.  I'atiiL-r  Za;npy  went  immediately 
[y  iLC-ive  her;    ftiicn  Ihe  lold  him,  tli.it  flic  had 

hear4 


MINGRELIA  Into  PERSIA. 


heard  there  were  fome  Europeans  in  his  houfe,  who 
Ijad  brought  a  great  quantity  of  baggage  :  that  flie 
was  glad  ot  it,  and  defired  to  fee  them,  in  order  to 
tell  them  that  ihey  were  welcome.  I  was  then  in- 
ftantly  called,  and  father  Zampy  told  me,  that  I  mnft 
make  her  a  prefent,  fince  it  was  the  cuftom  to  pay  in 
this  manner  for  tlie  vifits  of  a  prince  and  princefs. 
Being  told  that  I  Ipoke  the  Turkifh  and  Perfian 
tongues,  Ihe  called  a  flave  who  knew  the  Turkifh,'' 
and  alked  me  a  ihoufand  queflions  about  my  rank, 
and  my  voyage.  I  told  her  that  I  was  a  capuchin. 
She  cauled  mc  to  be  afked,  if  I  was  in  love  ?  if  I  had 
ever  been  in  love  ?  how  it  happened  that  I  had  never 
been  in  love?  and  how  I  did  to  live  without  a 
woman  ?  She  carried  on  this  converfation  with  greac 
vivacity,  and  all  her  retinue  were  very  merry  upon  it : 
but  for  my  part,  I  was  much  dejefted,  and  would 
have  been  glad  of  the  abfence  both  of  the  princefs 
and  her  trainj  whom  I  every  moment  feared  would 
pillage  our  lodgings  ;  for  (he  alked  three  times  to  fee 
what  I  had  brought;  but  father  Zampy  promifing  to 
bring  her  the  ufual  prcfcnt  the  next  day,  (he  departed,^ 
fceming  well  fati'.Bed. 

The  next  morning  (he  fcnt  to  invite  me  to  dinner. 
She  was  at  a  houfe  only  two  miles  from  ours ;  but 
did  not  live  with  the  prince,  who  had  a  great  diflike 
to  her,  having  been  forced  to  marry  her.  I  founi* 
her  better  drcflcd  than  the  day  bctbre.  She  w« 
painted,  and  I'eemed  to  endeavour  to  appear  lovelyi 
She  was  clothed-  in  gold  brocade,  and  had  jewels  ^M 
her  head-drcfs.  She  far  on  a  carpet,  with  nine  or  ten  j 
women  by  her  fide  ;  and  near  her  were  many  ihzbbf 
fellows  half  naked,  who  compofed  her  court.  Tha 
alked  for  my  prefent  for  the  princefs,  before  they  fuft 
fercd  mc  to  cnrer,  1:  was  brought  by  tny  fcrvaiH 
who  dtlivcred  it  to  them,  and  confifl(;d  of  cal'cs.fl 
ItJiivcs,  fciflars,  and  other  things  wiiich  coft  about*! 
2oa.  and  was  worth  above  3  1.  in  Mingrelia.  The 
princefs  v/iis  fatJsficd,  and  fujTcicd  me  to  enter  aftar 

having 


3tS    CHARDIN^  TRAVELS  thitm^ 

having  fecn  them.  Neir  her  was  a.  bench,  on  whtcU 
the  Have  who  fpoke  Turkilh  defired  me  to  fie  She 
litft  told  me,  that  Ibc  wuutd  have  me  mitT^  one  of 
Iter  friends,  and  that  I  fhoutd  not  hvfe  that  o)untry  ( 

,  for  fhe  would  give  me  houfes,  lands,  and  (laves.  But 
a  ftop  was  put  to  her  difcourie,  by  one  coming  to 
inform  her  that  dinner  was  ready. 

The  houfe  in  which  flie  lived  was  in  the  midft  of 
five  others,  each  at  lOo  paces  diftance.  Before  one 
of  them  was  a  raifcd  place  built  with  wood  <8  inches 
high,  over  which  was  a  fmall  dome.  Here  a  carpet 
being  Tpread,  the  princefs  feated  herfelf  upon  it,  as 
did  her  women  at  iour  paces  diftance  on  other  carpets. 
Tlie  Ihabby  wretches  who  compolcd  her  court,  and 
were  about  50  in  number,  feated  thcmfetves  round 
on  the  gi  jfs.  There  were  two  benches  near  the  place 
railed  tor  tli;  princefs,  one  of  which  fervcd  the 
Thcarines  and  mt  far  a  feat,  and  the  other  for  a  table. 
"When  the  princefs  was  ieated,  a  long  painted  cloth 
was  laid  betorc  her,  and  at  one  end  of  it  was  placed 
two  large  and  two  fmall  flagons,  four  plates*  and 
eight  cups  of  different  fizes,  with  a  filver  bafon,  ewer, 

.  and  Ikimmer.  Other  fcrvants  at  the  fame  time  laid 
boards  before  thofc  who  were  feated,  to  ferve  as 
tables  i  and  one  ^yas  alfo  put  before  the  women. 
This  being  done,  two  kettles  were  brought  in  and 
pbced  in  the  middle :  one  of  them,  which  was  verjr- 
large,  was  carried  by  four  men,  and  was  full  of  com< 
mon  gomm :  the  other,  which  was  fmaller,  was 
broughc  in  by  two,  and  was  full  of  white  gomm. 
1  his  gomm  was  a  kind  of  pafle,  of  which  the  Min- 
grtlians  make  the  fame  ufe  as  we  do  of  bread.  Two 
other  men  brought  in  upon  a  kind  of  bier,  a  hog 
boiled  whole  ;  and  four  others  encered  with  a  large 
teitcher  of  wine.  The  princefs  was  fcrved  firft  ■,  theft 
ner  women,  then  us,  and  aftenvard  her  attendants. 
Theprinrefs  was  alio  fcrved  with  a  wooden  bowl  of 
gomm,  and  fome  herbs,  nnd  with  a  filver  diOi,  in 
wiiich  were  two  fowls,  cne  boiled,  and  the  other 
roaficdi 


GRELIA  into   PERSIA.       749 


roaded  •,  but  both  of  them  had  very  difagreeable 
fauce.  The  princefs  lent  me  a  par:  of  the  biead  ami 
fallad,  and  caufed  me  to  be  told,  that  I  (hould  Hay 
fupper,  and  that  (he  would  kill  an  ox  ;  but  this  was 
mere  compliment.  A  little  after  ftie  fent  me  two 
pieces  of  fowl,  and  afked  with  a  loud  voiee,  why 
there  never  came  intoMingrclia  any  of  the  European 
artiBcers  who  work  fo  well  In  metals,  filk,  and  wool, 
and  why  there  only  came  monks  who  had  no  bufuHls 
there,  and  whom  they  did  not  want  ?  It  13  cafy  to 
guels  at  the  confufion  into  which  this  queftion  muft 
throw  the  poor  Theatines  who  were  prefect.  I  an- 
fwered,  that  the  artificers  of  Europe  laboured  only 
for  gain,  and  having  employment  enough  there,  had 
no  inclination  to  go  farther ;  but  that  the  religioua 
having  in  view  the  glory  of  God,  and  the  falvation  of 
fouls,  thefc  great  concerns  induced  them  to  leave  their 
country,  and  travel  fo  far. 

The  repaft  lafted  about  two  hours.     "When  it  wai 
half  ended,  the  princefs  fent  me  a  cup  of  wine,  and 
caufed  me  to  be  told,  that  it  was  the  wine  ihe  berftlf 
ufed,  and  the  cup  out  of  which  Jhe  drank.     Three 
times  Ihe  did  me  this  honour,  and  was  much  fiir- 
prifcd  to  fee  me  mix  water  with  my  wine,  faying,  llic 
had  never  fecn  that  done  before.     Indeed,  (he  and 
her  women  drank  it  unmixed  in  great  quantities^ 
Dinner  being  ended,  fhe  fent  to  enquire  if  I  hatjUj 
brought  any  fpices  or  china-ware  ;  Ihe  alfo  afked  m^fl 
for  a  variety  of  things  ;  and  finding  that  I  had  nonfcj 
to  give  her,  ihe  at  lad  grew  angry,  and  faid  ibf]H 
would  fend  to  examine  my  goods  :  but  though  I  wat^  ■ 
much  frighted,  I  anfwered,  Ihc  mightdo  it  wheneveriB 
fhe  pleafed  :  to  which  fhe  replied,  that  flie  was  onljS  I 
in  jeft.     However,  as  foon  as  we  rofe  from  table,  {}■ 
entreated  one  of  the  Theatines  who  had  accompanie<k« 
me,  to  make  all  polfible  hafte  to  my  comrade,  aa4t  | 
tell  him  what  the  princefs  faid,  in  order  that  he  inigiic  I 
prepare  for  all  events.     After  dinner  Ihe  again  fpok«,  1 
of  the  marri^e,  and  laid  fhe  would  fuon  (hcv/  me  the 

womia 


35©    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  through 

woman  fhe  would  give  me :  but  I  replied  as  before, 
that  monks  never  marry,  and  was  going  to  take  my 
leave  j  when  unhappily,  fhe  perceived  underthe  mean 
frock  I  wore,  that  I  had  wMccr  and  finer  linen  than 
what  they  had  in  Mingrcha.  She  c^me  up  to  mc, 
took  me  by  the  hand,  pulled  up  my  fleeve  to  my 
elbow,  and  held  me  iorfome  time  by  the  arm,  talking 
all  the  while  in  a  low  voice  to  her  women.  I  was 
extreamly  embarrafled,  and  what  gave  mc  moft  pain 
was,  my  not  knowing  what  fhe  faid,  though  I  could 
perceive  by  her  geftures,  that  Ihe  was  talking  earneftly 
about  me.  1  was  at  a  lols  how  to  behave  in  public  to 
a  woman  who  had  at  the  fame  time  the  title  of  fovc- 
reign,  and  the  impudence  of  a  proftitute.  But  fhe 
foon  ilirew  me  into  a  greater  conflernation  ;  for  going 
up  to  father  Zampy,  Ihe  faid,  you  both  deceive  me  : 
you  fhalt  come  again  on  Sunday  morning,  and  this 
ftranger  (hall  fay  mafs.  The  father  was  going  to 
.  reply  ;  but  the  princefs  turned  her  back,  and  bid  us 
go  home. 

I  returned  to  our  lodging  very  fad  and  penfivci 
The  princefs*s  avarice  made  me  apprehend  Ihe  would 
do  me  fome  ill  turn  j  and  father  Zampy  told  mc,  that 
he  was  infallibly  certain  of  it.  1  therefore  the  fame 
night  caufcd  a  pit  five  feet  deep  to  be  dug  in  his 
apartment,  in  wliich  I  put  a  clicft  that  contained  a 
clock,  and  a  box  of  coral :  this  wjs  fo  well  buried, 
that  there  was  not  left  the  leaft  Jign  of  the  ground 
having  b;.'cn  opened.  1  then  went  into  the  church 
wiiii  the  fame  dcfign,  when  father  Zampy  advikd  me 
10  opun  tiie  grave  of  aThratine  who  had  been  buried 
lix  years  before,  and  to  depofite  among  his  afhes  a 
fmall  cailicE  I  was  wiiling  to  conceal :  out  happily! 
cholo  to  bury  this  calker,  in  which  was  12,000  gold 
ducats,  in  a  corner  of  the  church  behind  the  doorj 
for  whici'.  pDrpol'j  1  uwxk  a  deep  pi:  like  the  former. 
]  .if;ci  w,iri.l  coiiCi.MlLd  in  the  roof  over  tiie  chamber  ' 
where  I  iujg^:d,  a  fibre  aud  a  poir.arJ  fet  wtclLfce- 
ciuui  iloncs.  Ivly  c','LKr.'..li;  and,!  kcjit  about  us  what 
7  was 


MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA.      351 

was  of  the  leaft  weight  and  the  greateft  value  -,  and 
fuch  things  as  were  nut  worth  a  great  deal,  we  gave 
the  Thcatines  to  keep  for  us. 

On  the  23d  after  dinner,  a  perfon  came  in  to  in- 
form father  Zampy  that  there  were  two  gentlemen  at 
the  door  who  alked  for  him.  Thefe  gentlemen,  who 
were  neighbours,  were  on  horfeback,  and  had  with 
them  go  men,  horie  and  foot,  well  armed.  My 
comrade  and  I  were  immediately  called.  I  could  not 
penetrate  into  their  defign  ;  but  I  knew  it  too  foon  j 
for  on  our  coming  up  to  them,  they  caufcd  us  to  be 
fnzed  and  tied  by  their  men  ;  telling  th;:  prelciTt,  and 
the  other  Theatines  who  came  to  falute  ihem,  that  if 
they  ftirred,  they  would  kSl  them.  1  h.-  prefect 
being  feized  with  fear  fled.  The  others,  however, 
would  not  leave  us ;  and  the  lay-brother  not  only 
inade  ufe  of  all  his  intereft  in  our  behalf;  but  tlujugli 
a  fword  was  held  up  to  his  neck,  he  wou'd  not  aban- 
don us.  Our  lervants  were  immediately  fcizcd,  and 
one  of  them  making  refinance,  and  defending  him- 
felf  with  a  knife,  was  thrown  down,  and  tied  to  a 
tree.  They  thendecUi^d,  that  they  would  fee  what 
trcafures  we  had.  To  which  I  rcplitt!,  tii-t  they 
jnaull  do  as  they  pleafed ;  we  were  poor  capuchins, 
'jgf^  all  our  wealth  confiiled  in  books,  papers,  nnd  a 
^•w  ordinary  goods,  which,  if  th,-y  would  offer  us 
no  violence,  we  would  ftiew  them.  Thi:.  anJivcr 
fucceeded ;  they  untied  me,  and  bid  nic  oyin  my 
chamber-door. 

We  had  kept  about  us,  as  I  have  alrcac'y  o'^fjt'.'cd, 
our  moft  precious  jewels  :  my  comrade  hid  fc/.".;i  hi; 
in  the  neck  of  a  cbfe  roai  1  ned  witii  fur  ;  b:-t  1  hi.1 
made  mine  up  into  two  (.T.aii  paciic::,  v.-r.;<, .  I  I.?.-: 
hid  in  my  chL-lt  r.n'.'iriv  rr.y  zy.k ,  -,  not  d-,r.:  -■  ■■'. '.  .-.;■ 
ihcni  aboi:.  mt  forfrarof  c-':ir,v  tu'^'dc-'.  n:  : '1  .;..;.>,-rv; 
Oi  thjir  accl■JU^t.  J  thc^A-'j  ■■.:;;-'::  ...  •-.-•.'*: 
aij.l  i\u  h:-:;;\j:jijr  to  t;.':*:  :':.■:  f.v  j  :  -  '/;.  ;.  -.'...'-^ 
iivi  to  ainui"-:  i}i>;>n  (./ »J''  -    ;■  i  i  ,-.,    ...    ,  , 

.order  togivtrac  ti.Ticto:J^';::--  i-o-.  ..vir>i    ;   .<,    r. 


352    CHARDIN-s  TRAVELS  througli 

out  of  my  cheft,  and  to  conceal  them  in  another  place* 
They  did  fo  :  I  entered  my  chamber,  and  ftjat  myfctf 
in.  The  gentlemen  fufpcfted  my  defign,  and  went 
to  the  door,  which  I  had  faftened  on  the  injQde :  when 
my  comrade  bid  me,  in  a  low  voice,  be  on  my  guard,' 
as  they  watched  me  through  the  cracks.  This  made 
me  fnatch  the  two  packets  out  of  the  thatch  in  which 
I  had  already  concealed  them,  for  fear  they  had  fcen 
me  put  them  there.  I  then  put  them  in  my  pocket* 
and  feeing  that  the  villains  were  breaking  open  the 
door,  I  tlircw  myfelf  out  of  the  window  into  the 
garden,  lil  a  lefs  prefling  neceffity  I  woukl  not  have 
made  that  leap  on  any  confidcration  ;  but  a  mind 
feized  with  fear,  dreads  nothing  but  the  firit  objeft 
of  its  apprehenfions.  I  ran  to  the  bonom'  of  tho 
garden,  and  threw  the  two  packets  into  a  thicket  of 
briars;  but  was  in  fuch  contufion,  that'Ididnotwhh 
fufficient  care  obferve  the  place  where  I  put  them; 

I  immediately  returned  to  my  chamber,  which  X 
found  full  of  thcfe  robbers,  feme  of  whom  were 
ftruggling  with  my  companion,  while  others  were 
beating  with  their  weapons  on  my  chefts,  to  bre^ 
them  open.  Knowing  that  there  was  now  nothing 
in  them  of  great  value,  I  took  courage,  and  bid  them 
take  care  what  they  did,  as  I  was  fent  for  by  the  king- 
of  Perfia;  an;;  that  the  prince  of  Georgia  would  take 
a  fcvere  revenge  for  the  violence  that  was  offered  me. 
T  then  fhewcd  the  king  of  Perfia's  paiTport,  which 
one  of  the  gentlemen  took,  and  was  going  to  tear  it, 
favinr,  he  neither  feared  nor  valued  any  man  upon 
earth  ;  but  the  other  (topped  him  j  for  the  writing  in 
golil,  and  the  gilc  fea!,  inlpired  him  with  refpeft; 
He,  however,  bid  me  open  my  cherts,  and  fud  thic 
no  harm  fliould  be  done  me ;  but  if  I  made  any 
fartlier  refinance,  they  would  fever  my  head  from 
my  body.  I  began  to  reply  inftead  of  (hewing  my 
obedience  ;  but  this  had  like  to  Iiave  coft  me  dear  j 
for  ore  of  the  foldiers  drew  his  fword,  and  was  aiming 
it  ar  my  head,  when  the  lay-brother  Itopped  bis  arm.  . 

I  now 

3 


MlNGkELIA  into  pErsIA.  55^ 
I  now  imnjediawly  opened  the  chefts ;  thty  began  td 
plunder  them,  and  every  thing  that  pleafed  thefe 
gentlemen  was  taken  away. 

During  the  time  this  pillage  laftcd,  I  leaned  againft 
a  window,  arid  turning  my  eyes  away  from  thefe 
wretches,-  *hat  I  might  not  encreafe  my  grief  by  be^ 
holding  them,  I  caft  a  look  into  the  garden,  and 
there  perceived  pro  foldiers  removing  the  brambles, 
juft  where  I  fappoifed  I  had  concealed  my  two 
packets  of  jewels.  I  ran  in  a  rage  to  the  place,  fol- 
lowed by  one  of  the  Theatine  fethers  -,  but  the  fol- 
diers, 1  knew  not  why,  reiired  as  foon  as  they  faw  us 
coming  toward  them.  I  inftantly  fought  for  my  v,va 
packets  j  but  the  confufion  I  was  in  prevented  my 
knowing  the  pUce  where  I  had  put  them  ;  arid  my 
not  finding  them,  made  me  certain  that  they  had  dif- 
covered  and  taken  them  away.  The  reader  may 
judge  from  the  value  of  thefe  packets,  which 
amounted  to  25,000  crowns,  of  the  confternation 
with  which  I  was  feized.  In  the  mean  while  my 
comrade  and  the  -  lay-brother  calling  me  as  loud  23 
they  were  able,  I  left  the  garden^  and  ran  into  the 
chamber.  On  my  entering  it,  I  was  (cized  by  two 
foldiers  who  dragged  me  into  a  corner,  and  took 
every  thing  they  found  in  my  pockets,  which  was  of 
no  great  value.  They  then  (eized  my  hands,  and 
attempted  to  tie  them,  I  cried  out — I  relillcd — I  , 
made  figns  that  they  fhould  lead  me  to  their  mafter. 
—I  caufed  the  chief  of  the  villains  to  be  told,  that 
they  need  not  tie  me,  either  to  carry  me  awiy,  or  to 
kill  me ;  for  I  was  difpofcd  to  fubmit  to  whatever 
they  did  with  me.  They  replied,  that  fince  we  were 
ambafliidors,  they  would  take  me  to  their  prince.  I 
let  them  know,  that  we  would  go  without  being  tied, 
and  that  we  hi)pcd  lie  ■-vrjuki  do  us  juilicc,  as  v.c  h::d 
fetters  to  him,  10  which  he  would  certainly  Oiew 
rrfpcct.  It  '^as  laic,  thr  ni;;,ht  approached,  an:!  I'n: 
prince's  cafti-,:  was  at  15  rni'i.-.'!  tliflance  ;  ihry  th-rre- 
,fore  relcaffd  us,  :ind  o:-!y  tovk  the  iVrvan:  v,-:-,o  '.-.li 
'  •  Vol.  VI.  A  a    '  tcca 


iS4    CHARDI-N's  TRAVELS  throogR 

been  tied  to  a  tree }  and  whofe  liberty  I  procured  * 
fonnigbt  after  for  tenpiafters. 
,  As  foon  as  I  was  out  of  the  hands  of  thefe  robbers^ 
I  went  into  the  garden.  The.  prieft  who  }ud  fol- 
lowed me  when  1  went  go  fetch  the  two  packets  o£. 
jewels  I  had  concealed,  told  every  body  in  the  houfc 
of  the  misfortune  I  believed  I  had  fufiered  i  and  no- 
body doubted  but  thatthcfe  foldiers  haying.o6ferved 
ihe,  had  followed  and.  taken  what  I  had  concealed 
among,  the  brambles.  Allaverdy,  one  of  our  Arme- 
nian valets^  followed  me,  and  to  my  great  aftonifh- 
tnent  threw  his  arms  about  my  neck,  with  his  face 
bathed  in  tears.  Sir,  faid  he,  we  are  ruined.  Fear 
and  the  common  misfortune  have  made  us  forget 
what  we  all  are.  I  was  at  firft  fo  {tirprifed,  that  I 
took  him  for  feme  Mingrelian  who  was  going  to 
ftrangle  me ;  and  when  I  knew  bim,  I  was  moved  bf 
his  tendemefs.  Sir,  faid  he,,  have  you  made  a  tho- 
rough fearch  ?  I  have  fearched  fo  much,,  cried  I,  that' 
I  am  quite  fure  of  my  misfortune.  He  was  not  con- 
tented with  this;  he  would  have  me  fliew  him  the 
place,  and  the  manner  in  which  I  concealed  them.  I 
did  fo  merely  out  of  complail^nce  for  the.  poor  youth 
who  Ihewed  i'uch  affeftion ;  but  was  fo  fully  perfuadcd 
that  he  would  lofe  his  labour,'  that  1  would  not  aflift. 
him.  It  was  now  night,  and  1  was  fo  uneafy  that  L 
knew  not  what  I  did ;  but  at  lengchi  to  my  greac 
anonifhmcnt,  Allaverdy  came  again  to  carefs  me,  and 
gave  me  the  two  packets,  which  he  pulled  out  of  his 
bofom.  1  could  not  help  imagining,  ttiat  the  finger 
cf  heaven  was  in  this  ;  and  believing  no^  that  I  wU' 
the  care  of  the  Almighty,  I  became  confident  of  the 
divine  altiftance,  and  entertained  thofe  hopes'of  dc- 
Tiverance,  that  hare  ever  fincc  fupported  me  under 
.all  my  diftrefles. 

I  now  went  to  my  chambo^  and  told  my  oonihule 
of  my  fucccfs.  '  t  found  him  putting  our  tliing»  ift 
order.  What  they  had  taken  conlifted  of  cloutiv 
linen,  arms,  brafs  vefTcIs,  and  other  tkingi  of  fiAaUf 

vailu^ 


TSlue,  which  did  not  amount  to  400  crowns ;  ami  we 
dgrctd  lo  conceal  the  recovery  of  my  two  packets 
from  the  Theatincs,  thai  they  might  think  we  had 
little  elle  to  lofcr. 

The  next  morning  the  preftfl  of  the  Theatinc% 
and  the  lay-broihcr,  went  with  mc  to  the  prince,  and 
the  catholicos,  or  chief  prieft,  to  demand  juftice;  buc 
neirlierof  them  could  give  us  any  latisfartion.  Ihe 
prince  obferved,  that  while  the  war  lafted,  he  had  but 
little  aiuhoriiy  over  the  nobility-,  but  at  another  time 
he  would  have  done  his  utmolt  to  recover  what  we 
had  loft.  The  catholicos.  to  whom  we  gave  a  cale  of 
lilvcr  hafted  knives  and  forks,  talked  in  the  fame 
manner,  and  endeavoured  to  comfort  us.  They, 
however,  each  of  ihem  appointed  a  gentle-man  to  go 
on  their  parts  to  demand  wh.it  had  been  taken  from 
us  i  but  their  endeavours  to  find  the  robbers  were 
ineffedtual.  From  them  we  learnt  that  the  princcfs 
was  concerned  in  the  robbery,  and  had  a  third  pare 
of  the  fporls ;  and  that  the  I'urks  had  entered  Min- 
grclia,  and  were  laying  waftc  all  the  country  through 
which  they  paflcd  %vi[h  Rrc  and  fworJ. 

1  was  now  in  fo  refigned  a  dif^olition,  that  this 
news  did  not  much  move  me:  the  Theatines,  how- 
ever, were  tilled  with  terror,  an  i  boih  ihcy  and  wc 
prepared  for  Hight,  At  midnight  wc  heard  the  re. 
port  of  two  great  guns,  fired  from  the  fonrels  of 
Rucks,  to  give  notice  of  the  approach  of  the  cfiirmy.  . 
At  this  (ignal  every  body  began  to  fiy  •,  and  at  break 
of  day  weourfelvesfet  our.  1  left  every  thin.j  that 
had  tieen  buried,  and  concealed  in  the  roof  and  other 
'|iUccs,  thinking  them  much  fifcr  than  what  -.vc  took 
vith  us.  The  Thc;itincs  had  no  other  carriage  buc 
one  cart  drawn  by  bullocks,  and  two  hories.  In  the 
cart  wa*  carried  the  baggage  ;  the  lay  broth  r 
Inoiinttd  one  of  the  hoHVs,  anJ  my  cumrade,  who 
Wa!  lick,  rode  the  o:hcr,  while  two  Thcatine  frijrs 
Md  I  followed  on  foot,  accomp.inicd  by  all  the  Qivcs 
>fervants.  One  of  the  friars  llaiJ  alone  to  guar* 
A  a  2  t*-- 


3s6    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  through 

ihe  hcuftr,  in  which  were  a  thoufand  things  that  wc 
could  not  lake  away  for  wane  of  carriages.  I  Ictt  my 
li.ioks,  moil  of  my  papers,  and  my  mathematical  in- 

Ihiinu-nts,  imagining  rh?.t  n;:iE[ier  the, Turks,  nor  the 
Mltigrelians  would  ta!;e  the  trouble  to  remove  ihem. 
'I'he  wars  ihcic  confiibng  chiefly  in  chafing  and  plun- 
dtringr,  the  c-emy  loon  iciires.  For  this  reafon  they 
always  leave  a  pcrfbn  or  two  at  each  houfe,  to  prc- 
vc«iu  the  neighbours  dealing  the  corn,  wine,  and- 
other  things  that  could  not  be  carried  away.  Thcfc 
men  are  lekloni  fiirprifed  by  the  enemy,  becaufethey 
:ird  always  upon  the  watch,  and  take  carc  to  efcape 
into  rlic  woods,  which  are  not  only  near,  but  thicki 
and  pf'iper  tor  concealment. 

Tnc  pl.ice  to  whieh  we  r:;tired  was  afortrefsin  the 
wootls,  like  thofe  1  have  already  defcribed,  Th?  lord 
of  the  place,  who  wns  ci'.lied  Sabatar,  was  a  Georgian, 
who  had  been  a  Mahomecin,  and  had  turned  Chrif- 
tian.  We  arrived  at  his  caftle,  after  having  pro- 
ceeded five  le.igues  through  the  dirt  and  mire,  in 
whicli  the  cart  was  continually  IVicking  faftj  fo  that 
it  w.;s  obliged  to  be  unloaded  and  loaded  20  times. 
Mean  while  v/e  were  in  continual  danger  of  being 
robbed  and  rr:urdcred.  We  met  with  a  favourable 
recej-tion  ;  a;;d  the  'I'hcatine:.  telling  the  lord  Sabatar 
ir.a:  I  would  rcpjy  tiic  ol)ligiuions  l:c  fhould  confer 
(»n  us,  tie  I'd^id  us  in  a  bakehoufe,  a  little  mean 
_  .h.iir,  ill  \,;-.:e!i  v.-e  were  ihelteitd,  but  little  better  than 
':,'  v.e  h.i(i  be.'ii  iii  ti:e  ope:i  court,  for  the  rain  poured 
111  on -'.il  fi'l;". .  Our  i'l'.viijf,  it  w;ts  however  a  great 
l;ivo;ir,  :'.>  !t  provLii(i.-d  our  bcinir  mingled  with  a 
r.iuliin;:''.  I'iii'.i-.n'.bli.:  oi';e,i<.  Tlie  forcrel's  %vasfuU 
«-f  ["j.-^-'e  le-.!.-:e  v.'c  .irrivi-d,  ;;:id  contained  Sco  per- 
ions,  a..;^ii::.  .;;i  of  vvl;i;ii!  were-  women  •.■.nd  children. 
■  On  it.c  ."-rh.  i'.-.;  pn/ci;  t-f  ;lie  Thcitincs  kit  us 
rn  :^;)  !o  tiiC  lij.iic  for  Ibr-x  veJIMs  and  provifions  we 
hail  liii:  tjeiiind.  i  livHii-'n^d  to  have  iJCcomp:inied 
r;i;ii;   iiil  I.e  !','!  out  tv,o  i:oLi:-s   b::Ti;r:;  d;iy.     Oti  en- 


MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA.      357 

ing  to  the  Baffa,  and  the  prince  of  Guriel,  who  beat 
him  with  their  ftaves,  and  infilled  on-his  opening  the 
church,  faying,  he  had  concealed  thehe  all  the  trea- 
fure>  but  the  prcfcft  had  caft  the  key  among  the 
bramWcs,  immediately  on  his  pcrceivitig  them  ;  and 
noci-viih landing  the  ill  treatment  he  rtfccivcd,  h;-  re- 
fufed  to  tell  where  it  was.  At  length,  ftripjiing  him 
of  part  of  his  cloaths,  and  talcing  out  of  the  houfe 
only  fuch  things  as  were  light  and  of  little  value,  they 
wertt  away,  without  touchmg  either  my  books  or  my 
papers.  However,  on  the  29th,  a  gcnrlenian  of 
Mjngrelia,  with  30  of  his  men,  went  thither  in  ibt 
night,  and  uncovered  almod  all  the  roof  of  my  cham- 
ber, with  the  hnpcs  of  finding  fomeclung,  I  miglit 
have  concealed.  He  carried  olf  all  the  cheds  that 
had  been  left,  and  my  more  cumberfumo  move.ibles  : 
in  fliort,  every  thing  wliich  the  Turks  had  left,  ex- 
cept what  was  of  great  value,  which  he  happily  di.l 
not  difcover.  This  rapicious  wretch  having  no  tight, 
made  a  fire  with'  my  papers  and  buoks ;  [caring  off 
the  covers  bccaufe  they  were  finely  gilt :  for  I  had 
caufcd  my  belt  books  to  be  CLirioully  bound  before  I 
left  Paris,  and  this  vill;ii[j-did  not  leave  ir.e  one. 

On  the  30th  in  the  ifio'rning,  I  with  the  dcepeft 
cdncern,  learnt  thefe  particuUrs.  We  began  to  be 
in  wane  of  the  neceflaries  of  life  ;  my  fervants  were 
reduced  to  dcfpair,  and  we  had  no'hing  before  our 
eyes,  but  the  ptcrtpcft  of  death  or  fiivery.  This 
made  me  refolvc  to  hazard  every  thing  in  order  to 
leave  Min^rclia  while  I  had  rtreigiti  to  do  it. 
I  caufed  guides  to  be  every  where  louslit  tor ;  I  pro- 
mifed,  I  entreated,  I  made  prcfcnts,  but  none  would 
conduft  me.  They  told  me  that  men  in  arms  poi- 
fclTcd  all  the  paflcs  of  imcretra,  between  Minprelia 
and  Georgia,  and  thjt  it  would  be  the  LTrc.i'.rit  fully 
to  go  thither,  fince  we  (houLl  all  be  certaifilv  made 
flavcs.  I  then  propofed  to  make  the  ttjUr  of  mount 
Caiicallis,  or  to  proceed  along  the  fea  Ihnrc  ;  bjt  nu- 
body  would  conduft  me  :  for  it  can  fcarccly  be  ron- 
A  a  3  ccivcd 


358     CHARDlN's  TRAVELS  through 

cciyeil  how  afraid  the  Mingrelians  are  of  death;  nq 
rewarj  can  induce  them  to  undergo  the  Icaft  danger. 

Sabatar,  to  whom  the  fortrefs  belonged,  had  now 
fubmitccd  to  the  Turks,  and  was  not  only  to  enjoy  atl 
his  lands,  but  to  have  a  l^prkifh  guard  for  the  tecu- 
riiy  of  his  caft|e  :  for  which  he  was  to  pay  25  flaves, 
and  8on  crowns,  which  he  was  refolyed  to  raifi: 
among  thofc  to  whom  he  had  granted  his  proieftion. 
From  every  family  that  had  four  childrcp,  he  took 
one  1  and  it  was  the  niofl:  dreadful  dght  in  the  woHd, 
to  fee  them  torn  from  the  arnis  of  their  mothers, 
tied  two  and  two,  and  led  to  the  Turks.  I  wu  taxed 
at  20  crowns. 

Ac  length  I  was  conflrained  to  take  the  reiblutioq 
to  go  by  fea,  tl'i-it  is  to  take  a  compafs  of  70  leagues  ; 
for  Iliac  purpofe  I  went  to  Anarghia,  a  village  and 
fmall  pore,  already  defcribed,  and  haying  found  there 
a  Turkilh  felucca,  I  freighted  her  for  Gcmia,  and 
returned  lO  the  houfe  of  the  Theatines,  to  prepare  foi; 
the  voyage. 

I  left  the  caftle  on  the  loth  of  November,  early  in 
the  morning,  having  i^reed  with  my  comrade  on  the 
methods  I  fhould  tike,  in  order  to  deliver  him  ou? 
ofMingrelia,  if  it  Ihould  pleafeGod'to  give  me  a 
happy  voyage.  I  took  with  nie'ico,ooo  livres  in' 
precious  Hones,  and  Soopiftoles  in  gold-,  wiihapart 
of  die  baggage  thjt  remained.  The  jewels  were  con- 
cealed in  a  laddie  made  in  Europe  for  that  purpofe* 
and  in  a  pillow.  I  took  one  of  our  fervants  with  me^ 
the  fame  whom  I  had  redeemed  from  flavery,  who 
was  a  wicked  drunken  fellow,  and  whom  it  was  noc  ' 
fafc  to  leave  in  Mingrclia.  Father  Zampy  accom- 
panied tiie,  as  he  had  always  done ;  and  the  lay- 
brother  alfo  went  with  me  to  Anarghia.  The  prcfed: 
and  I  walked,  btcaufe  we  could  only  hire  one  horfe 
on  which  was  placed  my  baggage  and  Biy  valet  i  bu^ 
the  lay-brother  rode  on  horfcba^k,  he  having  a  horfc 
of  his  own.  1  cannot  exprefs  the  fatigue  we  endured 
in  the  two  days  we  were  upon  the  road ;  for  it  raincc^ 
' very 


-MTNGRELIA  inro  PERSIA, 


TCry  hard,  and  we  were  obliged  to  wade  through  the 
■mud,  in  which  I  commonly  funk  above  ihc  knees. 
On  the  night  of  the  fecond  day  we  arrived  a;c 
Anarghia,  foaked  through  with  rain. 

On  The  19th,  Father  Zampy  received  advice,  that 
the  night  before,  the  church  had  been  broke  oper;, 
and  nothing  left  but  the  bare  walls :  the  tomb  had 
been  opened,  and  every  thing  taken  out,  which  the 
poor  Theatine  who  had  been  ieft  in  the  houfe,  had 
iiuried  in  it.  It  is  ejfy  to  imagine  the  apprehenfions 
with  which  I  was  feizcd  at  receiving  this  news  j  1 
Slaving  Irft  above  7000  piftoles  buried  in  the  church- 
1  immediately  difpatched  a  melTengeT  with  a  letter  to 
my  comrade,  who  wrote  me  word  that  they  had  not 
Touched  our  money,  and  that  every  thing  we  had 
buried  was  fafc.  This  news  revived  my  courage, 
and  I  went  to  haften  the  Tutks,  of  whom  I  had 
hired  the  felucca. 

White  I  ftaid  at  Anar^ia  1  was  invited  to  two 
chriftenings,  which  were  performed  in  the  following 
manner :  The  pricll  being  fent  for  at  about  10  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  went  into  the  buttery  where  they 
Iceep  the  wine,  and  fitting  down  on  a  bench,  begaa 
to  read  an  half  torn  oftavo  volume,  rqnning  on  very 
faft  in  a  low  voice,  and  in  fo  carelels  a  manner,  that 
fie  did  not  feem  to  regard  what  he  was  dcjing.  In 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  the  father  and  godfather 
brought  "in  a  boy  about  five  years  old  -,  and  ihe  god- 
father having  fixed  up  a  fmall  candle  againft  the  cabin 
door,  fcattercd  a  few  grains  of  incenfe  upon  a  few 
embers.  The  pried  ftill  continur^d  reading  in  the 
fame  carelels  manner,  breaking  oft"  to  fpeak  to  every 
body  that  came  in  :  the  father  and  go;if*ather  all  the 
time  walking  in  and  out ;  and  the  little  boy  did  no- 
thing but  eat.  In  about  an  hour's  time  a  bucket  full 
of  warm  water  was  got  ready  ;  and  the  prieft  having 
poured  into  it  a  fpoonful  of  the  oil  of  wjinuts,  bid  the 
godfather  undcafs  the  child ;  which  being  done,  he 
ifus^c  aa  bis  fcec  in  the  water,  and  the  godfather 
A  a  4  walhe^ 


360    CHARDIN's. TRAVELS  thraugh 

waflied  his  whole  body  very  well.  The  prieft  then 
took  out  of  a  leather  purfe,  which  hung  M  his  girdle, 
a  fmall  quantity  of  tlie  oil  of  uijiftion,  ind  giving  Lc 
to  [lie  iiodfather,  he  anointed  the  child  on  the  crown 
cf  the  h'jaJ,  ilie  cars,  the  forpliead,  the  nofe,  the 
c]ieet:s,  ilie  chin,  the  flioulders,  the  elbows,  the 
back,  the  belly,  the  knees,  and  the  feet  j  while  the 
priclt  continued  rcadiii";  till  the  godtlilher  had  diicflcd 
the  child ;  when  the  father  bringing  in  bpiled  pork 
and  wine,  they  fct  down  to  table,  witli  the  faoiily  and 
the  guefts,  and  loon  got  drunk. 

All  the  other  afts  of  rtligion  are  cek-hrated  with 
the  fame  irreverence.  One  day  as  I  \vas  going  by  a 
church,  the  prieft  who  was  frying  mafs  ht^ard  inc  aflc 
the  way  of  foiiic  people  wl.o  were  llanding  a:  the  door, 
and  cried  out  fro^n  tl)e  altar.  Stay  and  I'll  Ihew  you. 
A  nionn.nl  after  he  came  to  the  door,  muttering  the 
mafs  as  h.e  wa!I:ed ;  t!.cn  ha^  ing  afl-;cd,  where  we 
c^n-.e,  und  wliither  wo  were  gjing,  he  civilly  ihcwcd 
us  the  wd'/t  a:-.d  recuriK-d  to  t'le  altar. 

On  the  27-th  of  Niivember  I  left  Anarghia,  and 
after  an  hour's  failing  rcach'^d  the  fej ;  for  the  river 
Langur  h  very  rapid,  and  wj  proceeded  with  great 
fwiltnels  down  the  llicwii. 

Tiie  luixijic  or  Bhcli  Sea  is  20c  Ipa^ucs  in  length, 
nearly  fnjm  eaft  to  weft ;  and  its  gicateft  breadth 
from  the  Bofphoriis  to  the  Borifthencs  is  about  three 
degrees  :  but  the  oppoOte  end  is  not  half  fo  broad. 
The  water  of  this  fea  appears  neither  fo  clear,  fo 
green,  nor  fo  fait  as  the  ocean,  which  probably  ariles 
from  the  great  rivers  that  difcharge  tncmfelves  into 
it.  It  did  not  receive  its  name  from  the  colour  of  the 
water,  but  fro.m  the  tcnipefts,  which  are  did  to  be 
there  more  frequent  .iiid  more  furious  than  in  other 
Jtfds :  hence  the  Greek';  gave  it  the  name  of  Axin, 
which  fignifies  intrsi^abie,  and  the  Turks  ihac  of  Cara 
Penguis,  or  the  Stormy  Sea  j  for  cara,  witich  pro- 
L-erlv  means  blatk,  alfo  llgniHo  iLormy. 

On 


MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA.      361 

On  the  2gth  we  reached  ihe  river  Phafis,  and  pro- 
ceeded a  mile  up  it,  co  fome  boufes  where  the  maftcf  1 
of  the  felucca  landed,  and  put  fome  goods  on  fliore,l 
The  river  Phafis  has  its  fource  in  mount  Caucafu^* 
and  is  now  called  by  the  people  of  the  country  the 
Rione.     It  is  confined  within  a  narrow  bed,  and  runs 
with  grijat  rapidity.     I  fought  for  the  great  city  of 
Scbaft J,  which  geographers  have  placed  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Phafis;  out  the  ruins  of  that  city,  likeihofeof 
Coldils,  have  no  traces  of  them  left.     All  that  I 
obferved    to  liave    an/  conformity  with   what    the 
ancients  have  written  of  this  part  of  the  Black  Sea  is, 
that  it  abounds  wich  pheafants.     Thisriver  feparatcs 
Mingrelia  from  the  principality  of  Guriel,  and  the 
little  kingdom  of  Imeretta. 

On  the  30th  in  the  afiemoon  we  arrived  at  Gonia, 
about  40  miles  from  the  Phafis.    Our  felucca  09 
fooncr  came  to  land  than   my  valet  leaped  aflior^  J 
kifled  the  earth,  and  fliewed  the  mofl:  cxrravagaa^Jl 
and  frantic  figns  of  joy  j  and  then  entering  the  cartlc, 
left  me  at  a  time  when  I  mod:  wanted  him.     Soon 
after  the   cuflomhoufe   officer   and   the    lieutenant- 
governor  came  to  fee  my  things  landed,  and  10  receive 
ihc  duty.     They  inttantly  let  me  know  that  they  wer^  i 
inibrnied  of  my  being  an  European,  and  of  all  thiB  J 
misfortunes  that  had  happened  to  me  in  Mingrclb 
This  furprlfcd  me ;  and  I  found  I  was  betrayed  by  ir 
rafcal  of  a  v;ilet.     The  officer  of  the  cuftoms  afk« 
me  feveral  qoeftions,  and.  gave  orders  for  rxamin 
my  goods  -,  but  th.-y  coulii  find  nothing  I  wanted  c 
conceal.     My  laddie,  however,  weighed  very  licav] 
and  this    rendered  it  fufpci^ed ;    efpccially   as   ;h 
Twrkilh  faddics  are  extreamly  light.    It  was  examined  J 
and  handled  on  all  fides  ;  but  being  able  to  find  tio^  I 
thing  within  it  belide  hair  and  wadding,  they  laid  ic 
down. 

Of  the  800  piftoles  I  had  brought,  I  carried  half 
of  tJiem  about  me,  and  the  other  half  in  a  wallet, 
fafteoed  with  a  padlock,  with  fome  things,  which, 

thuugh 


363    CHARBIN's  TRAVEl^S  Attrogh 

tfiough  of  fmalt  valuf ,  I  knew  the  Turks  would  feize 
'if  they  faw  them.  The  cuAom-houfe  officer  and  hU 
janizaries  being  told  of  this  wallet,  ordered  me  to 
open  it,  on  which  I  told  them  that  I  would  freely  do 
it  in  the  houfe ;  bur  not  on  the  fea-Ihore  before  lb 
manjr  men.  On  which  the  officer  of  the  cuftomt 
took  me  home  with  him  to  his  houfe,  and  the  licute- 
-nant  governor  went  with  us.  The  latter  made  me 
pay  tne  value  of  one  per  ctnt.  on  my  goods,  and  the 
other  five.  The  cuftom-houfe  officer  likewife  took  - 
a  2  piftoles  in  gold,  and  every  thing  he  liked  that  was 
found  in  my  wallet :  among  liie  reft  he  got  from  me 
«  pair  of  piftols  ;  which  were  the  only  arms  1  had : 
he,  however,  paid  me  for  them,  but  gave  me  no 
more  than  half  their  value.  After  this  rapacious 
behaviour  he  invited  ire  to  lodge  with  him  j  but  I 
could  not  help  expreffing  my  allonithment,  that  he 
who  had  unjuftly  made  me  pay  a  duty  for  the  gold 
and  filvcr  I  brought,  Ihould  immediately  sflbme  the 
mafk  of  friendship :  but  he  vindicated  what  he  had 
done,  renewed  his  invitation,  and  even  promilcd  ttt 
fupply  me  with  a  guard  to  proteft  my  baggage,  and 
conduct  me  over  the  mountains.  But  though  he 
renewed  his  entreaties,  and,  as  I  afterward  found, 
really  meant  me  well,  yet  I  was  afraid  of  accepting 
his  invitations,  for  fear  he  fhould  take  that  opportu- 
nity of  caufing  my  faddle  and  my  cloaths  to  be  more 
parrowly  examined. 

Jt  was  ajmod  night  when  I  left  this  officer  of  the 
jcudums,  who  was  alfo  governor  of  the  territory  of 
Gonia.  My  valet  had  carried  my  baggage  to  the 
place  wliere  the  men  who  came  with  us  lodged, 
f  his  was  a  ^retched  cottage,  which  admitted  the 
air  on  alt  fides,  and  w^  as  dirty  and  ftinking  as  pof- 
fibic.  J  then  received  many  compliments  of  coiv- 
dolence,  if  I  may  ule  the  term,  for  all  the  men 
appeared  forry  for  my  lofs,  and  blamed  me  for  not 
Jttcing  them  keep  the  wallet  for  me  ■,  their  goods  pay- 
ing, no  duty.    While  I  was  eating  a  piece  of  a  Im& 

cuit. 


MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA.      3^3 

cuir,  a  janizary  came  to  tell  my  valet,  that  the  lieu- 
tenant-governor wanted  him.  My  valet  went-,  and 
an  hour  after  the  fame  janizary  came  for  me.  1 
found  the  lieutenant  and  my  valet  fitting  together 
both  drunk.  Having  obliged  me  to  eat  and  drink, 
the  lieutenant  demanded  200  ducats,  as  due  to  his 
mafter  from  all  Chriftian  church-men  who  came 
there.  This  occafioned  a  long  difpute  ;  I  attempted 
to  retire,  but  was  detained  by  force,  and  threatened 
10  be  put  in  irons,  and  was  at  laft  glad  to  efcape  by 
paying  too  ducats  to  the  lieutenant,  and  four  to  the 
janizaries.  But  this  was  not  all ;  the  lieutenant  obliged 
me  to  entreat  him  to  accept  of  the  money,  and  to  fwear 
that  I  would  not  complain  of  him. 

The  next  morning  the  officer  of  the  cuftoms  fent  ft 
party  of  foldicrs  to  my  miferable  lodgings  to  examine 
again  my  faddle,  and  to  fearch  me  ;  but  though  they 
filled  mc  with  the  greateft  uneafinefs,  ihey  could 
make  no  dil'covery.  After  this,  I  was  allowed  two 
men  to  carry  my  baggage,  and  a  Turk  to  conduft 
me  as  far  as  Acalzika  :  he  alfo  gave  me  a  paflport, 
and  adviled,  that  I  and  my  valet  fliould  wear  a  white 
turban,  in  order  to  be  treated  wiih  the  greater  rel'peft. 
This  I  did  ;  and  fct  out  at  eight  in  the  mornintr, 
tranlported  v/ithjoy,  at  leaving  fo  wicked  and  dan- 
gerous a  place,  and  at  having  nothing  more  to  fear. 
I  then  began  to  feel  fomc  pujce  of  mind.  For  five 
months  pjfl:  I  hiid  fulTcrcd  the  moil:  dreadful  agita- 
tions. inf'.I:,  fiavery,  marriage,  t!ie  lols  of  my  fub- 
ftance  and  liberty,  during  all  this  time  dirtrafted  my 
inind  by  turns,  and  a  thoufaiid  real  evils  had  kept 
rnc  under  the  det-peft  dejection.  I  now  afcended 
inount  Caucaius  with  a  hglitnels  which  lurprifeJ  my 
porrers  ;  for  the  boi'y  is  literally  light  when  the  heart 
IS  cued  of  a  heavy  load  :  this  is  true  without  3  figure  1 
for  I  feenied  to  have  been  delivered  from  the  weight 
pf  a  mountain.  1  now  proceeded  fcL*r  leagues  toge- 
ther among  the  roclcu 

Afia| 


364    CHAR'DflN's  TRAVELS  thrtmgh 

Afia  is  divided  by  a  chain  of  mountains,  oac  at  the 
end  of  the  oilier,  the  three  higheft  of  wfaich  have 
btcn  nanx-d  Taurus,  Imaus,  and  iCaiicatbs.  The  firft 
advances  fanhelt  into  Afia,  and  the  whole  chain  in 
general  is  called  by  the  name  of  Mount  Taurus  :  I 
lay  in  general,  becaufe  each  part  has  its  particular 
name,  by  which  it  is  called  by  the  nation  ncarcft  it. 

But  to  return  to  the  dercripcion  of  mount  Caucafus ; 
which  is  [he  higliert  mountain,  and  the  moft  difficult 
to  pafsof  any  I  haveli;en.  It  has  frightful  precipices, 
and  in  many  places  the  roads  arc  cutout  of  the  iblid 
rock.  When  I  p;ilTed  it,  it  was  cniirciy  covered  with 
fnow,  which  was  almcll  every  where  ten  feet  deep ; 
and  my  condiidt^rs  were  in  many  places  obliged  to 
clear  it  away  with  [hovels.  They  wore  Ihow  fhoes  In 
the  form  of  rackets  v.-i:hoot  handles,  which  prevented 
their  finking  in  the  fnow,  and  enabled  them  to  run 
with  great  fwiftncls  upon  it.  The  top  of  mount 
Caucaius,  which  is  eight  leagues  over,  is  indeed  per- 
petually covered  with  it.  1  paflcd  the  night  of  the 
7th  and  8th  in  the  midft  of  the  ihow  -,  where  I  cauled 
ibnie  fir-trees  to  be  cut  down,  and  lay  upon  the 
boughs  by  the  fulc  of  a  great  fire.  On  our  arrival  at 
the  top,  my  conductors  made  long  prayers  to  their 
images,  to  do  us  the  favour  to  prevent  a  wind ;  and 
indeed  if  it  had  been  high,  we  ihouKI  doubtlefs  have 
been  buried  in  the  hiuw,  fur  as  it  is  as  fmall  as  dull, 
a  litile  win.i  fills  the  Ar  with  it.  The  horfes  funk  fo 
of;en  into  lioles  covered  by  it,  that  I  often  thought 
we  lbGi:I,i  Ic-il-  ihcm.  i  alnioft  conftantly  walked  on 
foDt,  ar.,1  t::d  n(.'t  ride  above  e'glit  leagues  in  crofling 
this  fiightliil  !iioi!n:ain,  whicli  is  ^6  leagues  over. 

IJurmg  the  two  bit  days,  1  feemed  in  tlie  clouds, 
not  being  able  to  fee  ;o  paces  before  me.  It  is  true, 
the  llrs  wiih  v.iil.h  tlic  :u;)  of  the  mountain  i^  covered, 
greatly  obltiutt  tl'.e  vuw.  On  dcltending  it,  I  faw 
ilie  clouds  mo%e  uikIci-  iny  feer.  On  our  reaching  the 
bo;ioni,  we  enieri'd  a  btautiful  ajid   fertile  valley, 

thnc 


MINGREHA  into  PERSIA. -365 

three  miles  broad)  covered  with  vilUge?,  and  watered 
by  the  river  Kur,  which  paflws  through  the  middle 
of  if. 

Mount  Caucafiis  is  fertile  almofl:  to  the  top  -,  and 
its  fides  abound  in  honey,  corn,  iruiis,  hogs,  and  large 
cattle.  The  vines  twine  about  the  trees,  and  rife  fa 
hig^  that  the  inhabitant^  cannot  gather  the  fruit  from 
the  upper:  branches.  There  are  many  ftreitms  of  ex- 
cellent watq-,  and  a  great  itumber  of  villages..  It  was 
the  litne  of  .vintage,  and  I  found  both  the  grapes  and 
the  new  and  old  wine  admirably  good. 

The  inhabitants  of  thcfe  mountains  are  for  the  moft 
part  Chriftians  of  the  Georgian  church.  They  have 
very  fine  complexions,  and'  1  have  feei>  among  them 
very  beautiful  women.  They  are  infinitely  better 
accommodated  than  the  Mingrelians. 

We  next  arrived  at  Tcflis.  The  lay-brother,  who 
accompanied  mt,  led'  me  to  the  convent  of  the  Capu- 
chins, where  having  no  time  to  lofe,  I  immediately 
told  tiie  prcfefl:  the  caufe  of  my  journey,  and  gave 
him  my  letters  of  recommendation.  He  was.  loon 
fenfible  of  thi:  neceflity  of  going  at  all  hazards  to- 
eitdeavour  to  recover  what  1  had  left  behind.  It  was 
agreeil  to  lay,  I  was  a  Theatine,  who  had  been  fent 
by  thoi'e  of  Colcliis,  to  beg  afTiHance  of  the  capuchins, 
and  they  were  to  fend  one  of  their  companions  with- 
me,  inortler  to  bring  them  away,  on  r.ccount  of  their 
being  reduced  to  the  greatcll  dillrefs  by  the  war. 

This  was  no  fboner  determined,  than  I  prepared 
for  the  journey.  I  took  out  of  my  faddlc  and  my  pil- 
low, the  jewels  I  had  concealed  in  them,  and  putting 
them  in  a  ca!i;er,  conniitted  ihem  to  thj  care  of  the 
prefci^.  Wc  ihouaht  %vf  fiioiild  iiL-vcr  have  been 
able  to  hire  horlbs  ;  i-a  njbody  -.vould  go  wiili  us  into 
Mingrelia:  I'lit  at  1-ilt,  by  (he  means  uf  uioiiev,  we 
^aiiicd  ovtr  two  m'/n^  and  gave  Itcuiity  for  thtir 
horlcs  and  tlo.uh;  in  la!;:  they  Ihould  be  r./bbed  of 
them.  1  i'liu  il.riiiiilLd  my  vilfi;,  wh)  plui-d  nie  a 
ihouCinJ  v;ilai:!0u.;  j-.v,if!k-,  in.}  r.iuny  t;;:;!rj  atienipxd 

my 


1^6  CHARdlM's  tRAVEL^  through 

my  dcftrudion.  Aficr  i  had  expoftutaccd  with  hini 
on  the  numerous  inftances  of  treachery  of  which  h« 
had  been  guilty,  I  ^aid  him  for  the  whole  time  he 
had  fcrvcd  me;  and  exhorted  him  to  amendment. 
But  the  mtldnefs  of  this  treatment  had  no  cSe&  upon 
him  :  he  was  enraged  at  being  dlfmifled  in  a  ftrange 
country ;  and  gave  me  room  to  fear  fomething  fttal 
iTom  his  refentmem.  I  was  tempted  to  lay  him  in 
irons,  which  I  could  have  done  for  i  Word  fpeaking,  . 
the  capuchins  having  fuch  credit  at  Teftis,  as  to  be 
able  to  do  it  with  the  greateft  eafe :  but  I  pitied  him( 
and  foon  difcovercd  I'ome  dangetons  Ihues  he  laid 
for  me. 

On  the  20th  trf"  December  I  fet  but  with  brother 
Angelo,  and  a  Georgian  belonging  to  the  capuchinsj 
who  had  frequently  been  at  Colchisj  and  all  the  neigh- 
bouring countries,  and  whom  the  prefect  recommend- 
ed as  a  perfoii  on  whom  1  might  place  the  greattft 
Confidence.  We  were  only  five  men  with  fourliorics; 
Brother  Angelo  and  I  mounted  two,  the  two  othen 
carried  provifions;  and  we  every  where  gave  outj 
that  we  were  going  in  fearch  of  the  Theatmcs  of 
Mingrelia.  Wc  again  paffed  mountains  covered  with' 
ihuw,  and  at  length  coming  to  the  banks  of  a  large 
river,  eroded  it  in  a  boar ;  then  del'cending  a  moun- 
tain, we  entered  a  large  village,  that  extends  into 
Mingrelia,  and  is  watered  by  levera!  ftreams.  Hera 
we  lay  in  a  village  named  Sclano>  fituated  in  the  fineft 
paitofthc  country  of  Imerctta. 

Scfano  is  near  a  caftlc  belonging  to  an  old  lady,- 
aiint  to  the  king  of  Imeretra,  who  being  now  ficky 
and  hearing  that  a  capuchin  was  arrived  at  the  vil- 
lage, fcnc  for  him,  all  the  mifTionaries  being  in  thcfc 
countries  tckcn  for  phyfici^ns  -,  and  indeed  they  aU 
pradiJc  piiyfic.  Brotlicr  Angelo  went  to  her,  and 
was  in  hopes  of  making  this  ei'cnt  turn  to  our  ad- 
vantajTC.  Two  hours  after  he  left  ,us  to  my  great 
fiirprile,  a  capuchin  of  Cjory  arrived  on  horfeoack 
wiin  a  guide,  to  inform  us,  that  the  valet  I  had  dii^ 

mil^ 


miffed  had  been  at  Gory,  where  he  had  difcovcred 
all  he  knew  of  my  entcrprize-,  Iwearing  to  ruin  me, 
and  that  he  was  gone  no  body  knew  whither.  This 
news  greatly  alarmed  me  i  and  having  given  the 
capuchin  a  thoufand  thanks,  I  prevailed  ua  him  to 
accompany  us. 

The  next  day  wc  reached  Cotatts,  and  lodged  at 
the  houfe  of  the  biftiop,  who  was  not  at  home,  but 
his  officers  knowing  brother  Angelo,  gave  us  a  very 
kind  reccprion.  W  hile  1  was  at  dinner  with  the  two 
capuchins,  the  carriers  and  my  guide  being  alio,  ac- 
cording to  the  cuftom  of  the  country,  at  table  with 
us,  I  law  the  rogue  of  a  valet  enter  with  an  Arme- 
nian and  a  prieft,  who  came  to  Ihew  hitn  the  houfe.  I 
was  not  much  furprifed  at  feeing  him,  for  my  appre- 
^enfions  kept  him  ftill  in  my  thoughts.  I  had  not, 
fcowever,  dil'-overed  the  leaft  fear :  I  imagined  he  was 
turned  Mahometan  from  his  wearing  a  turbant.  The 
Tillain  entered  with  fury  in  his  looks,  and  feated  him- 
felf  by  my  men,  without  being  afked.  This  info- 
lence  offended  me  ftill  more;  and  I  alked,  from 
whence  he  came?  He  replied,  from  Acalziflcai 
whence  he  had  come  in  two  days.  I  alkcd,  if  the 
way  was  fo  eafy,  and  the  mountains  fo  little  covered 
with  fnow,  that  he  could  crofs  them  in  lb  more  a 
lime.  The  way  is  the  worft  in  the  world,  he  tried, 
and  the  mountains  are  covered  with  fnow  like  thofc 
we  palfed  in  coming  from  Gotiia.  You  ihall  fee,  for 
you  muft  come  to  Acalztka,  I  have  orders  from  the 
baffa  to  bring  you  to  that  town.  You  rmift  have 
more  fcircc  to  carry  me  thither,  faid  1,  tor  I  have  no 
bufinefs  there.  You  are  ill  advifed  :  you  know  I  paid 
you  at  Teflis,  and  if  you  arc  not  fatisficd,  you  ought 
w  make  known  your  demands  i  for  without  goinn  io 
far  as  Acalzika  on  fo  trifling  an  aiFair,  there  arc  luin- 
cient  numbers  at  Cotatis  capable  of  deciding  it.  This 
I  fpokc  with  the  greatcft  mildnefs  pofiiblc.  But  ifie 
viliain  turned  wiiii  a  furious  air  to  his  compjntun, 
and  bid  him  bring  in  the  Turks.  He  went  out  im-j 
mcdiat'^Iy ; 


368    GHARDIN's  TRAVEi-S  through 

mediately ;  but  this  was  only  an  artiBce  to  terrify  me : 
I  was  indeed  extreamly  frighted,  and  thought  myfelt" 
loft.  The  prieft  of  Cotatis  was  ignorant  of  what  par- 
fed,  becaufe  we  talked  in  the  Turkiih  tongue ;  but 
being  informed  by  father  Angelo  of  the  nature  of  the 
difputc,  and  the  equity  of  my  propofal,  he  immedi- 
ately interefted  himleil:  in  the  af^ir,  and  with  feveral 
Georgians  prcfled  the  fellow  to  agree  to  fo  reafonablc 
an  omr  ;  but  the  more  they  faid,  the  more  infolent 
and  abufive  he  grew.  Til!  at  laft,  lofmg  all  patience, 
I  ftruck  at  htm  with  my  fword  ;  but  they  flopped  my 
hand,  and  the  villain  tied  in  a  great  fright. 

It  was  now  relblved  that  brother  Angelo  ftiould  the 
next  morning  proceed  forward  into  Mingrelia,  while 
the  oiher  capuchin  and  I  fhould  ftay  behind  ;  the 
principal  rcalbn  was  our  being  unable  either  to  buy 
or  hire  horl'cs,  and  the  neceflity  of  lending  one  for 
the  ulc  of  my  partner. 

The  next  day,  which  was  the  2d  of  Jan,uary,  bro- 
ther Angelo  fet  out  with  all  the  horfes  and  men  I 
had  brought  from  Teflis,  while  I  returned  toChicaris 
with  the  capuchin,  where  we  propofed  to  wait  till 
brothei*  Angelo's  return. 

I  had  continued  there  a  fortnight,  when  one  morn- 
ing at  break  of  day,  I  was-  agreeably  awaked  by  my 
comrade.  He  told  me  that  brother  Angelo  with  the 
men-ahd  horles  arrived  at  Sippias  on  the  9th,  when 
"  io-ljis  great  joy  he  heard  of  my  arrival  at  Teflis,  and 
■  tliarl  v/as  then  waiting  for  him  near  Cotatis,  He 
inthiitly  prepared  for  the  journey,' dug  up  the  chefts, 
Snd  took  out  of  the  root  of  the  houfe  half  of  what 
wc  liad  canceaitd  there  i  and  having  ftaid  rill  the 
1  ith  to  TL-lc  the  l'.o:;l's,  [ct  out,  leavirifj  the  remain- 
(ler.of  the  trcafurc  to  ihscavjof  the  nioil  faithful  of 
our  valets,  not  daring  to  run  the  h-izard  of  loHng 
the  v/i'.'jk  at  0!!cr. 

]t  wis  iite,  b'.ht  my  comrade  and  I  cmiM  not  go  to 
fnnj;tT  iill  zf'sT  w^hii  i!;--;v„- o:!'.-C'-'"l'-- on  the  h;i|)f.y 
liKCt-fs  of  our  l.ibo.i;-3,     \\c  co-j:.!  r-o:  Iil--,  e  ho-ed 


■MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA.     369 

tlius  to  favc  every  ;liing,  when  we  were  furrounded 
with  J-ngers  that  made  us  c!re;ici  the  lojs  of  all  •,  and 
yet  our  loflcs  in  this  tliral  journey  hau  aniountca  to 
no  more  th.n  about  one  pc-  cent. 

Georgia,  by  wiiich  I  would  beunderrtood  ro  mean 
the  whole  country  of  that  name  Jubject  tq  IVrlla,  is 
bounded  m  the  cift  by  CircifTu  and  RuOia,  011 
the  wcrt  by  Amu-nia  Minor,  on  the  fou'h  by  Ar- 
menii  Major,  and  on  the  north  by  the  Black.  iJea, 
and  that  part  of  M  ngrclL  ciUcd  Imcretta.  Ihis  is, 
in  rriy  opinion,  the  whole  country  dnljnguithed  by 
the  anticnts  by  liic  n.ime  of  Ihcria.  It  has  many 
woods  and  mountains  that  cnclolc  lar^e  and  beau- 
tiful plains  i  btjc  the  midL!lepirt,  whiLh  is  watered 
by  the  river  Kur,  the  aniient  Cyrus,  is  the  moft  fer- 
tile. The  natives  call  thcmfelves  Carcheuli,  anil  it 
is  faid  the  Greeks  gave  them  the  nanie  ofGejtgoi, 
which  in  their  language  fignifics  Lauovirer. 

The  air  of  Georgia  is  diy,  v;ry  c  IJ  in  winter, 
and  hot  in  fummer.  The  fine  wt-t.a-r  docs  not  be- 
gin til':  the  month  rf  Piiayi  but  thf-n  it  lafts  t:il  the 
end  of  Novep".bc..  1  he  inhabitjnts  are  therefore 
obliged  to  water  the  earth  ;  bi  which  means  it  pro- 
duces all  Ibrts  of  grain  and  fruit  in  the  greatelt  pro- 
fiiGoo.  The  bread  is  as  good  as  any  in  thewa:Kl. 
The  fruits  arc  cxccilent,  and  of  all  forts.  No  part 
of  Europe  producrs  finer,  or  better  ufted  pears  and  ■ 
apples  i  nor  any  cartof  Afia,  more  excellent  ppm^" 
granates.  The  cattle  are  extrcamly  numerous,  and 
very  goodi  the  wild  boars  are  as  common  and  as  de- 
lioite  as  tlx)feLn  MingrL-lia;  and  the  common  people 
.live  almoft  entirely  upon  fwine,  which  are  fc^'n  ail  over 
the  country,  »ik1  though  their  fielh  is  not  fxtr^-'aruly 
palatable,  it  is  very.yriolefome.  The  wild  fov/1  are 
incomparable,  and  pf  ali  forts.  Uolidc,  th.-  Cal^iui 
Sea,  which  is  nearGcogia,  and  tiic  Kur  w!i;ch  iMns 
through  it,  alForU  the  greatefl:  plenty  of  ft*  afid  frcfii  ■ 
li'ater  fifli. 

Vol,  VI.  n  h  Jii 


370    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  tHroagfi 

In  no  other  country  do  the  inhabitants  drink  fo 
much,  or  fiich  excellent  wine.  The  vines growabouc 
the  trees  as  in  Mingrelb,  and  great  quantities  of  wine 
are  fi;nt  from  Teflis  into  Armenia,  Media,  and  Ifpa- 
han,  where  it  k  ufed  av  the  Shah's  table.  An  horle- 
load,  which  is  three  hundred  weight,  felts  for  about 
the  value  of  eight  (hillings:  this  is  the  price  of  the 
beft  fort,  for  the  ordinary  wines  does  not  fell  for 
more  than-  half  as  much,  Georgia  alfo  produces  great 
quaniitics  of  filk,  vrhich  is  exported  to  Turkey  and 
[he  neighbouring  couniries. 

The  Georgian^  arc  the  handfbmeft  people,  not 
only  inrhc  CJlt,  but,  1  believe,  in  the  whole  world  j 
and  I  ncTcr  obferved  an  ordinary  pcrlbn  of  either  fex 
in  this  country  :  but  I  havefeen  feme  that  have  becti 
quite  angelical.  Nature  has  given  moft  of  the  wo- 
men fijfh  graces  as  are  no  where  elfe  to  be  fccn ;  and 
it  is  impoliibie  to  behold  without  loving  them.  They 
are  tall,  eaJy,  not  encumbered  with  far,  and  have 
Render  waills  i  bur  they  injure  their  beauty  with 
paint. 

The  Georgians  have  naturally  much  wit,  and  had 
they  a  proper  education,  might  pofTibly  be  diftin- 
guilheil  by  their  learning,  and  iheir  (kill  in  the  arts 
and  fciences  ■,  but  the  ncglcft  of  all  inftrudion,  and 
and  the  force  of  ill  example,  render  them  ignorant* 
di/honeft,  and  extreamly  vicious.  They  wUl,  with 
the  grcatefl:  effrontery,  deny  what  they  have  faid  and 
done,  and  alTcrt  and  vindicate  the  moft  notorious 
falfehoods.  They  are  irreconcileable  in  their  hatred, 
and  never  forgive  -,  bat  then  they  art  not  eafily  dif- 
plcafed,  and  never  conceive  a  perpctaa!  hatred  with- 
out juft  caufe  of  anger.  1  hey  are  addiftcd  to  drunk* 
ennefs  and  luxury,  whieh  are  not  even  efteetncd 
crimes.  The  churchmen  get  drunk  as  well  as  the 
laity,  and  keep  beautiful  (laves  for  concubines. 
No  body  is  oficnded  at  this,  becaufc  it  is  Uie  general 
.luthoriztd  cuftom. 

The 


1 


MiNGRELIA  into   PERSIA.      37! 

The  habit  of  the  Georgians  is  aliroft  like  that  of' 
tlie  Poles:  they  wexr  chcir  butirets  like  chcirs  ■,  their 
vufts  are  open  at  the  brcaft,  and  iaHeneti  with  but- 
tons and  loypi  i  their  covering  lor  the  legs  and  feet 
h:fi.'mb!.s  liiarof  tlie  I'erfrany,  and  the  habit  of  the 
Women  is  eriiirely  I'crfian. 

The  [Kibiliiy'  txercife  the  moft  ryranmcal  power 
over  their  vaffiils,  whom  they  oblige  10  work  for 
them  whole  months  together,  and  a  often  as  they 
pli  ale,  without  giving  them  cither  p.iy  or  food. 
'J'hey  think  they  have  a  right  to  iheir  fubftanre,  li- 
berty, anJ  lives :  they  take  their  children  and  fell 
them,  Or  keep  them  as  (laves  -,  but  ihcy  feldon;  fell 
any,  efpecially  women,  who  are  above  twenty  years 
of  age. 

The  Georgians  are  almoft  as  ignorar;t  wirh  rcfpeft 
to  religion  as  the  Mingreltans.  Both  theft  countries 
received  the  knowledge  of  Chriftianiry  in  the  fourth 
century,  from  a  womnn  of  Iberia,  who  embraced  the 
Chriftian  religion  at  Conftantinople  ;  and  both  have 
how  loft  the  fpirit  of  it.  There  are  many  blfhops  in 
Georgia  b-rfide  the  cadiolicus  of  patriarch.  The 
printfe,  though  of  die  Mahtimetan  religion,  com- 
monly fills  the  vacant  fees,  and  generally  chtdcs  his 
Own  relations. 

Molt  of  the  Georgian  lord*  make  an  outward  pro- 
felTion  of  the  Muhometah  religion  :  feme  to  gain  em- 
ployments at  court,  or  penfions  fi'om  thtf  ftate  -,  others 
10  obtain  the  honour  of  marrying  tlieir  daugluera  to 
the  prince,'  or  only  to  introduce  them  to  the  fervice 
cJf  his  i/zomen.  'I  here  arc  fomfe  of  thcfe  bafe  nobi 
lity  who  Will  themr':!ves  Ic.id  their  moft-  bcautifsi 
daughters  to  the  prince  ;  for  which  they  are  rewarded, 
byapoft  in  the  governmcnr,  or  a  penfiort. 

WliiJe  I  was  at  Tefih,  a  Gcofgian  ford,  letting  the 
prince  know  that  he  hada  niicc  remar!<able  for  her 
tincomrnon  beatliy,  his  ma;cfty  ordered  that  fhe  Ibotild 
be  brought  to  him  1  and  he  took  upon  bimfelf  the 
•ffii.e  of  bringing  her.  The  Villain  went  to  his  filler, 
^  U  b  a  'ftho 


.37* 


CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  thrcuoh 


who  was  a.  widow,  and  told  her  that  the  prince  would 
matry  her  daughter  ;  and  that  fhc  mud  prepare  her 
"  rthat  honour.  The  mother  imniediately  informed 
7  poor  girl  of  the  violence  [hat  wa^  going  lo  be 
feftd  hiT.  She  loved  a.  young  lord  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, wlio  had  an  equ;il  aneftion  for  her  j  and 
their  mother  had  encouraged  their  pafiion.  In  this 
diftrefs  they  took  the  refulucion  to  condole  with  the 
lover.  They  fent  for  him,  and  he  arrived  fnon  after. 
He  found  the  motI\er  and  the  daiighicr  fliui  up  by 
themfelvcs,  minglir;g  their  tears,  and  in  the  dccpcft 
diftrefs  lamenting  the  leverity  of  her  fate.  The  lover 
ihrew  himfcif  at  tlieir  feet,  and  let  them  know  that 
he  feared  nothing  fo  much  as  the  lofs  of  his  miftrcfs; 
and  the  prince  could  infiiift  nothing  on  him  fo  dread- 
ful as  this  lofs.  That  the  only  way  of  prtfcrving 
him  from  it,  was  their  being  immediately  married ; 
and  that  the  next  day,  they  might  inform  their  perfi- 
dious uncle,  that  Ihe  was  no  longer  a  maid.  The 
propofal  was  accepted  j  and  the  mother  leaving  the 
room,  the  lover  wiped  away  the  tears  of  diftrefs  that 
fell  from  the  eyes  of  his  miftrefs,  by  inftantly  marry- 
ing her.  The  uncle  difcovercd  the  whole  affair,  and 
told  it  to  his  majcfty  ;  who  being  enraged  at  his  dlF- 
appointment,  gave  exprefs  orders  for  bringing  to 
court  both  the  mother,  the  daughter*  and  the  huf- 
band.  But  they  fled,  and  for  fome  months  elcapcd. 
from  place  to  place.  At  length,  being  convinced 
that  they  (liould  be  at  lafl:  taken,  they  got  to  Acal- 
zika,  where  the  Turkilh  bafla  took  them  under  his 
proreSion. 

The  fear  of  fuch  accidents  obliges  thofc  of  the 
Georgians,  who  have  beautiful  daughters,  to  marry 
them  as  foon  as  polTible,  and  even  in  their  Infancy. 
The  poor  efpcciaily  marry  theirs  early,  and  even  ia 
the  cradle,  that  the  lords  to  whom  tliey  are  fuhje^ 
may  not  take  them  away,  in  order  to  fell,  or  make 
,lhcni  their  cOncubines. 

Georgi 


MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA.      373 

Georgia  has  but  four  fortified  towns,  Teflis,  Gory» 
Suram,  ind  Aly  -,  of  which  the  former  ts  the  capita' 
of  the  province.  ,  It  is  fiiuaud  at  the  toot  of  a  moun- 
tain, and  by  it  runs  the  river  Kur.  The  city  is  fur- 
rounded  with  handfime  ftrong  walls,  except  on  the 
river  fide,  and  extends  from  north  to  fouth.  It  has 
a  larg-  fonrcfs  on  the  declivity  of  the  mountain, 
where  the  garrifon  only  confifts  of  native  Perfians. 
Here  is  1  public  fquare,  an  arfenal,  and  a  market. 
This  fortrcfs  is  a  place  of  refuge  for  criminals  and 
debtors.  The  prince  of  Georgia  is  obliged  to  pafs 
through  it,  when  he  goes,  according  to  cultom,  with- 
out ihe  gates  of  the  city  to  receive  the  letters  and  prc- 
fciits  fent  him  by  the  king  of  Perfia ;  becaufe  the 
city  his  no  other  entrance,  in  the  road  from  f erfia, 
but  through  this  fortrefs  :  and  the  prince  never  pafles 
through  it,  without  the  apprehcnfions  that  the  gover- 
nor h^s  fecret  orders  to  Icizc  his  perfoni  Teflis  has  14 
churches,  which  is  3  great  number  in  a  country  where 
there  is  fo  little  devotion. 

Though  this  city  belongs  to  the  empire  of  Perfia, 
and  as  well  as  the  whuic  province,  is  governed  by  a 
prince  who  profcflcs  (he  Mahometan  religion,  it  has 
jiot  one  mofque.  The  Perfiani  have  indeed  made 
ufc  of  their  utmoft  endeavours  to  buiUl  thcin,  but 
have  never  been  able  to  accomplifh  itj  for  the 
people  immediately  rolt:  in  arms,  pulled  down  the 
work,  and  beat  the  workmen.  The  princes  of  Gcot^ 
gia  were  indeed  glad  of  thefe  feditions  ;  for  having 
abjured  the  Chriftian  religion  only  to  obtain  the  vice- 
royalty,  they  were  not  willing  to  confent  to  the  eftab- 
lidimcnt  of  Mnhoiietanit'hi.  The  public  buildings 
at  Tefiis  make  a  handlbme  appearance ;  thefe  are  of 
ftonc,  and  kept  in  good  order,  particularly  the  ba^:iri> 
and  the  caravanferis. 

On  the  10th,  t^c  prefedt  of  the  capuchins  inform- 
ed the  viceroy  of  my  arrival ;  which,  indeed,  could 
not  be  concealed  from  a  prmce,  who  koows  the  moft 
trifling  things  that  happen  at  Teflis :  bur  I  wis  defir- 
-      B  b  3  - 


374    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  ilirough 

ous  of  feeing  him,  and  prcfeming  the  palTports  of  the 
king  of  Perfia,  addtcficd  to  all  the  g^v-rnors  of  pror 
vincts,  to  whom  1  was  ftrongly  recomTneiidcd  ;  for  I 
made  no  doubt  but  at  the  fight  of  thefe  ordcra  he 
would  give  mc  a  good  rccepiion,  end  an  efcorc  to 
fondud  me  out  of  his  dominions.  This  prince,  who 
is  called  Chanaves  Khan,  told  the  pn'fcdt  that  I  was 
welcon<e,  and  that  I  tliould  do  him  a  pleufure  to 
pome  and  fee  him  as  foon  as  I  could ;  and  on  the 
I2th,  he  fent  a  gentlemaii  to  inform  me,  that  as  he 
was  encenng  on  a  week  of  rejoicing,  during  whi^h 
he  Ihould  <;very  day  give  a  public  entertain lurnt  co 
his  whole  court,  he  dcfircd  nic  to  com*.,  f  h-  capu- 
chin-^ entreated  my  comrade  anJ  I  t;i  dreft  as  well  as 
pofiibl;:,  aiici  on  their  acaHim  to  mikc  a  very  noule 
prcltnt  to  the  prince.  '<  o  this  I  agreed,  being  very 
glad  of  an  opportunity  of  (hcwiny  my  gratitude  for 
|he  important  fcrvices  I  had  received  from  tht-m. 

It  was  near  noon  whin  wc  went  to  the  palace,  ac? 
conipiiiiitJ  by  tlie  prclei?..,  aiid  oni;  of  the  commu- 
nity, named  Father  U.;|i!.acl.  Thi'  prir.fe  was  in  ^ 
hall  about  ICO  feet  Icng  and  40  br^adi  built  en  the 
bank  of  [he  Kver,  widi  an  open  frr.nt  on  that  fide. 

I  fliail  npt  defcribe  the  order  and  magnificence  of 
this  feaft  i  I  ftiall  only  fay,  that  a  grc^t  deal  of  wine 
was  draiik,  an^  that  a  prodigious  quantity  of  meat 
was  eaten.  We  aruf:;  liom  talk  after  having  lit 
thres  hours  i  yet  ihe  roaft  meat  was  not  yet  brought 
in.  We  made  a  low  bow  to  the  prince  on  our  retir- 
ing, when  he  fent  again  to  tell  us,  we  were  welcome, 
and  ordered  us  to  be  conduced  home. 

On  the  14th  the  prince  fent  us  twq  great  Aagons 
of  winf,  t\vo  pheafant-s,  and  four  partridges.  The 
gentleman  who  brought  them,  told  me,  that  the 
prince  had  given  him  prders  to  enquire,  whether  I 
wanted  ^ny  thing}  ^nd  whether  the  capuchir^ 
took  care  fo  divert  us  ■,  and  to  tell  us,  that  if  wc  li^ed 
the  wipe  he  fpnt  us,  wc  might  fend  every  day  for  \t 
to  his  pantry.    I  thanked  the  gentleman,  and  dcfired 

luni 


MINGRELIA  iiiio   PERSIA. 


375 


him  to  afTurc  the  prince,  that  the  capuchins  lliffered 
us  to  want  for  nothing  ;  and  that  we  dranli  together 
the  prince's  health  with  the  wine  he  fi;nc.  Ir.deed, 
we  could  no  where  drink  btttcr. 

On  tiie  i6th,  the  prince  invited  us  to  the  matriage 
of  his  niece,  which  was  pirrfjr.-ned  at  t^e  p:hce,  I 
went  there  with  tiie  prefeifl  and  fafhcr  Raphael,  one 
of  the  capuchins  V  but  the  marriage  ctreaiony  was 
over  before  we  arrived.  It  was  perfor.Tied  in  the 
grand  faloon  where  we  had  dined  before,  and  it  be- 
ing full  of  ladies,  no  other  men  were  admitted  but 
rhe  prince,  and  his  near  relations. 

It  is  only  fince  the  Georgians  have  been  fubjeift  to 
FcrGa,  chat  they  have  forbid  their  women  to  convcrfe 
widi  men :  diis,  however,  takes  place  only  in  the 
towns  1  for  in  the  country,  and  in  place?  wliere  there 
are  no  Mahometans,  they  wear  no  veils,,  and  make 
no  difficulty  of  feeing  and  fjieaking  to  the  other  fex  : 
but  as  the  ruftoms  of  the  Mahometans  gradually 
gain  ground  in  Georgia,  with  their  religion,  the  li- 
berty of  the  women  decreares  in  die  fame  proportion. 

The  marriage  fcaft  was  on  a  terrace  of  the  palaci", 
fiirrounded  with  a  fophi  two  feet  high ;  and  upon  it 
was  crti!ied  a  grand  pavilion,  fupported  on  fine  co- 
lumns 2z  feet  in  height,  and  about  5  inciies  in  dia- 
meter. The  lining  was  of  gold  and  fdver  brocade, 
velvet,  and  painted  linen,  fo  artfull/ joined,  that  by 
the  light  of  the  tapers  it  appeared  like  a  cicling  com-' 
pofcd  of  flowers  and  morelco  work.  The  floors  were 
covered  with  fine  carpets,  and  the  place  lighted  with 
40  large  lamps  on  (lands  refembling  candlcfticks, 
moft  of  which  were  40  pounds  weight,  and  15  inches 
in  diameter;  the  four  next  the  piincj  were  gilr,  and 
the  others  filvcred.  The  ftan  J  at  the  height  6F  a  foot 
and  a  half,  bore  a  cup  full  of  tallow,  whjcH  fu^plicd 
two  wicks  with  light. 

The  giiefts,  who  amounted  to  about  an  h'-'ndred, 

were  ranged  on  fophas,  extending  round  the"  room  : 

ihe  prince  fat  on  one  raifcd  above  the  nrft,  and  covcr- 

B  b  4  ci 


$j6    CHAtiDlN^  TRAVELS  tfiroiigli 

ed  with  a  canopy  made  in  the  form  of  a  dome.  H» 
fon  and  his  broihers  were  on  hb  right,  and  the  bi- 
(hops  on  his  left.  Soon  after  we  were  fcated  the 
bridegroom  entered,  led  by  the  catholicos,  and  bav- 
in;^ toiccn  his  (eat,  the  prince's  relations  went  to 
make  him  tlitir  couipiiments,  and  to  offer  him  a  pre-- 
fc  .:;  and  this  was  afterward  done  by  moft  of  the 
oilier guetls,  each  in  his  rank,  '[his  formed  a  kind 
of  procclfion,  that  lafteJ  about  hiUf  ad  hour.  The 
pf'tnts  confiiltd  of  money  in  gold  and  filvcr,  and  ill 
fiTiall  lliver  clips :  but  all  of  them  together  did  not, 
I  bklicve,  amount  to  above  joo  crowns. 

The  feaft  confilted  of  three  fervices,  in  each  of 
which  there  were  about  fixty  large  covered  difhes. 
'1  he  firll  was  of  all  forts  of  pilaw  or  plco ;  that 
is,  res  drclied  with  meat,  which  was  of  various 
colours  and  taftes  :  the  yellow  was  dreflcd  with  faf^ 
fron,  cinnamon  and  fugar;  the  red  with  the  juice  of 
the  pomegran.ue ;  bur  the  white,  which  is  the  beft, 
was  of  the  natural  colour.  This  piiaw  is  very  deli- 
cate food,  and  exireamly  whelefome.  The  lecond 
fcrvice  was  of  tans,  fweet  and  four  fricafees,  and  ra- 
{;ouis :  ths  third  was  of  roaft  meat.  All  the  three 
lei  vices  were  n  ixed  with  filh,  eggs,  and  pulfe  for 
the  tCLl-'fiaftics.  Every  thing  was  brought  in  and 
taken  away  with  furprifing  filence:  for  three  Euro- 
peans at  a  table  would  make  more  noife  than  all  the 
guvib  and  fervjnts  in  this  hall,  who  were  no  lefs 
til-;;  ;ao.  The  prodigious  number  of  drinking  vef-" 
fcis  v-us  alfo  very  furprifing  i  thcfe  were  about  i;o, 
und  coiifiiled  of  bowls,  cups,  and  horns,  fixty  fla- 
gon?, and  twelve  tankards. 

1  do  not  know  how  long  the  feaft  lafted,  for  I  did 
ntit  ftay  til!  the  end  of  it ;  we  retiring  at  midnight, 
\vh!.-nthe  ro.iil  meat  was  not  then  tafien  away.  No 
body  dr^nk  till  the  third  f  rvic.:-,  and  then  they  bc- 
i£;an  to  diink  he^hhs  in  the  f;;!lowing  manner.  They 
'iL-liveroil  to  eight  pcrlbns  n^areft  the  prince,  four  on 
his  right  hand,  and  fjur  on  his  left,  eight  fmall  cups 

of 


■        MINGRELIA   into  PERSIA.       377 

rf  the  fame  fize  and  falbion  full  of  wine.  Thofe  on 
the  right  hand  drank  off  the  wine  firft,  and  then  thofc 
on  the  left.  The  others  next  them  were  then  Icrved 
till  the  health  went  round.  After  which  they  began 
again  with  eight  larger  cups.  It  is  the  cultom  of  the 
cOLintry  to  drink  ihc  heahhs  of  the  great  with  the 
largfft  cups ;  and  the  gucft?,  to  Ihew  their  refpcft, 
continue  this  till  they  are  quite  drunk.  In  this  man- 
ner they  drank  for  the  two  laft  hours  of  my  being 
there,  I  afterward  learnt  that  they  did  not  break  off 
till  it  was  light.  The  capuchins  and  I  were  exempt- 
ed from  drinking ;  and  indeed  had  I  drank  as  much 
as  iliofe  who  Ike  near  me,  I  (hould  have  died  upon 
the  I'pot :  but  the  prince  gave  orders  that  we  Aiould 
drink  no  more  than  we  liked. 

When  tlie  healths  began,  the  inftruments  and  vo- 
cal mufic  ftruck  up;  wiih  which  the  whole  aflcmbly 
ft-emed  tranTponed,  though  to  me  it  appeared  rude 
and  barbarous. 

On  the  2oth,  I  defircd  the  prefcft  and  father  Ra- 
pha^-l  to  return  thanks  to  the  prince  for  the  honours 
he  had  conferred  upon  me,  and  to  defire  him  to  grant 
me  an  officer  to  conduct  me  as  far  as  lrivan»  the  ca- 
pit.il  of  Armenia  Major;  to  which  the  prince  readily 
agreed.  He  profeflcd  to  entertain  an  efteem  for  the 
European^,  and  that  he  Ihoutd  be  glad  to  have  a 
number  of  tiicm  fettled  in  Georgia  j  and  added,  that 
if  they  came  tliithcr  for  the  fake  of  trade,  he  would 
grant  them  all  the  advantages  they  could  defire  :  and 
that  as  his  country  extended  to  the  Black  Sea,  they 
would  6 nd  their  advantage  in  travelling  through  ic 
to  the  Eaft  InJies. 

On  the  28th  of  February  we  left  Teflts,  our  Me- 
hemander  riding  before  co  prevent  my  paying  any 
dunes,  and  to  fbrnifh  us  with  provifions  and  lodgngs 
on  the  ro^id.  We  palTcd  by  Icvcral  towns  anJ  viUages, 
and  at  laft  arrived  at  Irivan. 

Irivsn  is  a  large  dirty  city,  ihe  grcateft  part  of 
Kbich  it  Bhed  mux  gardens  and  vincyafda>  It  b  ftdi- 
-  -  awJ 


3?8    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  throagh 

ated  in  a  plain  fiurounded  with  mouinains,  and  on  the 
banks  of  iwo  rivers  j  the  Zengui  waihing  it  :o  the 
nonh-wcft,  and  a  livcr  cillcd  The  Forty  Fountains, 
from  the  number  of  its  fourccs,  running  lo  the  fouih- 
wcft.  Irivan  is  fitualed  iJi  51"  15'  north  latitude, 
and  enjoys  a  good  ftir;  but  it  is  thick,  and  very  cold. 
The  winter  lalb  long,  and  the  fnow  fometimcs  faJls 
in  April.  The  country  is,  however,  extrcamly  fer- 
tile, and  the  wine  produced  in  its  neighbourhood  is 
good  and  cheap.  The  Armenians  cftcem  this  the 
moll  ancient  city  in  the  world,  and  believe  that  Noah 
dwelt  there  both  before  and  after  the  deluge,  when 
he  defcended  from  the  mountain  on  which  the  ark. 
refted.  They  even  fay,  that  here  was  the  terreftrial 
paradile. 

At  twelve  leagues  from  Irivan,  is  the  celebrated 
mountain  on  which  aimoft  all  the  people  of  the  coun- 
try are  firmly  pcrfuaded  that  the  ark  refted.  Tliis 
mountain  is  fo  high  and  Urge,  that  when  the  air  is 
clear,  it  do-s  not  appear  above  two  leagues  diftant. 
The  Armenians  even  believe  that  the  ark  is  ftiU  on 
the  fummit  of  this  mountain  -,  and  fay,  that  a  monk, 
named  James,  went  half  way  up  the  acclivity:  he 
could  go  no  farther,  becaufe,  having  afccnded  thus 
far  every  day,  he  was,  while  afleep  in  the  night,  car- 
ried back  to  the  place  from  whence  he  fet  oui  in  the 
morning.  They  add,  that  this  continued  a  long 
time,  till  God  being  willing  to  fatisfy  in  part  his  de- 
fires,  lent  him  a  piece  of  the  ark  by  an  angel,  and 
ordered  him  to  be  told,  that  allaccefs  to  the  top  was 
forbidden  to  mankind. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  is  a  village  of  Chrif- 
tians,  and  a  monaftcry :  for  which  the  Armenians 
have  great  devotion,  believing  that  Noah  firft  offered 
Qcrifices  there  after  die  deluge.  This  is  called  The 
Monaftery  of  the  Apoftles ;  from  its  being  pretcftd- 
cd  that  the  bodies  of  .^t.  Andrew  and  St.  Matthew 
Were  found  there,  and  that  the  fkull  of  that  evangc- 
lift  is  prefcrved  in  the  church  of  the  monallery.  The 
V  J,.  people 


MINGBELI.A  into  PFRrSI^.      379 

people  relate  a  huntlred  other  abfurd  partjcuUn  i>f 
thii  jilace,  and  erf  the  country  all  around,  wklcji  they 
mukt:  thrir  holy  land.  ,       , 

I  having  fent  co  inforiit  the  gover/jor  of  Jiivan  oF 
mv  arrival,  a  meflcnger  came  tw  icll  me  thjt  I^as 
>fccicoriie  i  and  that  he  was  very  dtfirous  of  leeiag  n^e, 
and  >i  part  ot  the  jcwcU  1  aad  brought.  I  was  then 
allied  now  many  men  I  had  with  nw,  and  wht-thcr  I 
chofc  ((>  lodgo  u\  tli^  fonrei";,,  or  in  .he  great  caravan- 
fcn.  1  cliulV__lh*;  litt'-ri  h.  Liiu;e  there  cm  be  no 
phitf  niore  it:ccr<,  aijJ  tUcT'  !>«  no  want  of  company, 
tor  iiK:ri.hant-  tome  t'icrc  iVoiii  a!i  ,  arts  of  AHa.  On 
ibij,  ihc  j^ovcni'W  giwng  orders  for  ■-.  y  having  one 
p!  the  bi;it  -tparfniemg,  i  went  tl>iiher  ihe  next  day, 
wi.h  all  my  bjg_;igc,  and  a'mti;  naon  an  officer  bc- 
lur^ing  to  thr  ^ovaniJC  briiuijhi  I'lC  au  orJcr  from 
the  intciidant  toFeceiVi;  ddiiy  J,0iiiili^'  i'^.^pcr  officer, 
bread,  wine,  fleih,  filh,  fruir,  rice,"' ir.Lr,  wood, 
and  other  ncceiliirics  for  llx  pcr&ns.  Tv.'-  r,Lianiity 
for  each  is  r^'gulatcd;  but  the  portion  ajiowcd  for 
one  pcrlbn  is  iitfficitnt  for  ivro.  ,   , 

On  the  toth,  1  went,  by  the  governor's  dcfirc,  to 

fiiy  him  a  vifit,  and  fou;id  him  in  a  large  handloinc 
ight  clofet,  with  livcral  lords  of  the  country.  He 
treated  me  with  great  complaifance,  told  mc  three 
times  thJt  I  was  welcome,  and  entertained  me  with 
fweet-mcats  and  Ruflian  brandy.  I  fticwcd  iiim  my 
paieocs,  after  which  he  fluent  an  hour  in  .liking  mc 
news  of  Europe,  in  ruhtion  to  the  wars  in  that  part 
of  the  world  1  dtc  prcfeni  difpofition  of  the  Chriitian 
princes,  and  the  ftatc  of  the  fciences,  with  the  new 
difcoveries  ihat  had  been  made.  He  (pent  another 
hour  in  examining  the  jewels  I  had  brought,  of  which 
be  talked  Ii)tc  one  who  was  well  acquainted  with 
them,  llf  fct  alldc  thofe  that  particularly  plc_fcd 
liim,  and  Kich  as  he  thought  would  ba  agreeable  to 
the  prioccfs  his  wife.  Haviife  kept  me  to  dinner, 
he  honoured  mc  aft'-rvvjui  with  his  coiwcrlktion  for 

half 


3?o    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  through 

half  an  hour  longer,  and  then  difmifled  mc,  ordering 
my  mehemander  to  fuffer  mc  to  want  for  nothing. 

This  g  vcrnor  was  one  of  the  greatcft  lords  of  Per- 
fia  1  he  was  beloved  by  the  king,  and  revered  by 
the  court  j  his  two  fons  were  his  majefty's  chief  fa- 
vourites ;  and  he  was  refpefted  by  the  people  on  ac- 
count of  his  juftice  and  integrity.  Indeed  he  well 
defcrved  his  good  fortune  ;  for  befidc  thefe  amiable 
quahties,  he  was  a  man  of  Icnfe,  and  fond  of  the ' 
arts  and  fcic-nces. 

On  the  i2th,  I  difmifled  the  officer  belonging  to 
the  viceroy  of  Georgia,  who  had  "condufted  me  to 
Irivan  ;  on  which  occafion  I  made  hitn  a  prefcnt  of 
eight  piftoles. 

On  the  6th  of  April,  I  dined  with  the  lieutenant 
of  the  fortrefs,  who  was  a  native  of  Dagheftan,  an 
extenfive  country  covered  with  mountains,  on  the 
confines  of  Ruflia  j  and  I  had  the  pleafure  of  hearing 
him  relate  many  fingulariries,  with  refpeft  to  the 
manners  and  cuftoms  of  his  country.  The  next  day 
the  treafurer  entertained  me  in  the  fame  manner.  I 
now  made  thefe  gentlemen  fmall  prefciits,  in  return 
for  the  favours  I  had  received  from  them. 

On  the  17th  we  arrived  ar  Tauris,  the  fecond  city 
of  Pcrfia,  both  witli  rcfped:  to  its  extent,  commerce, 
riches,  and  number  of  its  inhabitants.  There  is  the 
largett  fquare  at  Tauris  I  have  ever  fecn ;  it  being 
muthmore  fpacioiis  than  thatof  Ifpahan.  The  Turks, 
when  they  were  in  pofleflion  of  this  city,  have  fre- 
quently drawn  up  within  this  fquare  30,000  men  in 
order  of  battle.  In  the  evening  the  populace  are  di- 
verted there  with  drolls,  mountebanks,  wreftling, 
ram  and  bull-fighis  ;  the  repeating  of  pieces  in  profe 
and  verfe,  and  dancing  wolves.  This  fpacious  fquare 
is  in  the  day  time  ufcd  as  a  market  for  all  kinds  of 
provifions. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  at  Tauris,  I  believe, 
amounts  to  at  leaft  550,000  people  j  befidc  a  multi- 
tude 


MINGRELIA   into  PERSIA.       381 

tudc  of  ftrangers  ihat  are  conftantly  there  from  all 
pares  of  Afia,  The  fineft  Perfian  turbans  arc  made 
in  this  cicy  1  and  I  have  been  alTurcd  by  the  principal 
merchants,  that  the  inhabitants  annually  manufefl-Ure 
6000  bails  of  filk.  The  commerce  or'  this  city  ex- 
tends not  only  all  over  Pcrfia,  but  into  Turkey,  Ruf- 
fia,  Tartary,  the  Indies,  and  to  the  Bhck  Sea. 

I  flayed  at  Tauris  for  fomc  time,  during  which  I 
fold  a  number  of  jewels  to  the  governor,  and  the  fon 
of  the  receiver-genera!  of  the  province,  for  which  I 
received  a  ihoufand  crowns  ;  but  ihcy  would  not  al- 
low me  to  get  any  thing  by  them  :  the  firft  placed  to 
my  account  his  father's  intcreft  with  ihe  Ihih,  and 
the  other  that  of  his  brother's,  and  of  his  uncle  Mirza 
Sadcc,  the  great  chancellor;  forcing  me  to  take  the 
letters  of  recommendation  they  offered  me,  as  a  K- 
compenfc  for  giving  them  the  profit  I  ought  to  have 
made.  It  is  impoHible  to  conceive  the  carefles,  the 
flattery,  the  engaging  and  agreeable  behaviour  ufcd 
by  the  great  in  ferlia,  to  promote  their  own  intcreft, 
even  in  alTairs  of  the  fmaileft  moment :  in  which 
they  ad  with  fuch  an  appearance  of  fincerity» 
that  a  perfon  ought  to  be  perfectly  acquainted 
with  the  genius  of  the  country  and  of  the  court,  m 
prevent  his  being  deceived  by  them. 

As  this  was  the  time  when  the  Curdci,  the  Tur- 
kuman,  and  the  other  nationt  who  dwell  in  tenu, 
and  are  mofVIy  robbers,  quit  the  plain*,  on  account 
of  the  heat  of  [he  fun,  and  remove  with  their  flocks 
and  h.ibita:!ons  in  the  mountains  in  fearch  of  thzdc 
and  pafture,  we  were  advifed  for  the  grcat-r  (ecurky 
to  Wait  for  company :  for  this  purpttTe  1  flayed  till 
the  a8th  of  ■'■lay,  and  ihen  fct  out  w:th  ths  provoft 
of  the  merchanis,  who  had  focrtetn  horie*  and  ten 
valets. 

Leaving  Cafbin,  or  Cafwin,  to  the  right,  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  jourtiey  tuwa-d  KpiJun.  V.'e  had  ftw 
fomc  time  fei  out  an  hour  or  two  br fore  fu't-fef,  aikl 
complcap.'l  a  journey  of  «b&iiC  liw  or  U*  i«*wt»Jw 


382     CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  throsgli 

about  midnight.  People  in  the  eaft  generally  travel 
in  this  manner  during  the  fummer,  to  fecure  them- 
fclvesfrom  the  heat  of  the  fun,  which  is  very  fatigu- 
ing bnih  to  min  and  bead.  In  the  night  they  travel 
with  g'eatcr  fpeed.  The  frrrvants  from  time  to  time 
proceed  on  fout,  and  ihe  mafters  thcmftlvcs  are  glad 
to  walk  a  little  to  prevent  their  being  fcized  with 
flscp,  and  to  keep  tiiemlllves  warm,  which  cales  the 
hories.  On  their  arrival  they  go  to  bed,  and  gain 
in  the  day  the  (l^ep  thiy  loit  in  the  night. 

On  the  13th  we  proceeded  to  Kom,  a  large' city 
fituaced  along  the  bank  of  a  river.  It  has  alfo  fevem 
handfomc  caravanferas,  and  fine  rrofques;  the  mod  ■ 
beautiful  of  thele  laft,  is  that  in  which  are  interretl 
the  princefs  Fatima,  Mahomet's  daughter,  and  the 
two  lalt  kings  of  Perfia.  The  ftrufture  of  this 
tiiol'qae  is  beautiful,  and  its  ornaments  excreamly 
fumptuous.  The  accefs  is  through  four  large  and 
ftately  courts  ;  the  firil  of  which  is  a  handfome  gar- 
den, and  the  laft  is  paved  with  tranfparent  marble^ 
and  fiirroundcd  wiih  neat  lodgings  for  the  priefts. 
The  door  to  each  maiiiblcuin  is  plated  with  filver, 
and  the  tombs  are  furrounded  with  gates  of  the  fame 
metal.  Nothing  can  be  imagined  richer,  neater  and 
more  magnificent  than  tlwfe  maufolea.  To  that  Of 
Fatima  the  Perfians  give  the  name  of  Mafluma,  or' 
Pure,  and  hold  it  in  great  veneration.  There  isa 
revenue  of  3200  tomans  belonging  to  the  place. 

On  the  24th  we  arrived  at  ll'pahan,  the  nietrop(K 
lis  of  Perfia,  and  one  cf  the  largeft  cities  in  the 
v/orld;  for,  in^jluding  the  luburbs,  it  is  notlefsthan 
24.  miles  in  circumference.  Some  perfons  compute 
t'.w  number  of  the  inhabitants  at  1,100,000,  but 
thnfe  wiio  make  the  molt  moderate  computation  fup- 
y.ok  rhry  a  nount  to  only  600,000,  and  the  number 
of  houfcs  were  at  this  time  faij  to  amount  to  about 
25,460,  without  including  the  palaces,  mofqucs, 
public  baths,  baz;irs,  and  caravanferas^.  ■  The  city 
sppear^i  as  well  peopled  -^  London ;    it  is  built  on 


MINGRELIA  into  PERSIA.       353- 

tlie  banks  of  the  Zenderoud,  over  which  are  three 
fine  bridges,  one  near  the  middle  of  the  city,  and 
one  at  each  end.  The  walls  of  Ifpahan  are  about 
zo,ooo  paces  round ;  they  are  only  built  with  earth, 
and  are  fo  hid  by  the  houfes  and  gardens  both  on  the 
infidc  and  without,  that  in  many  places  they  cannot 
be  feen.  The  city  is  alfo  defended  by-  a  ditch  and 
a  caftle. 

The  beauty  of  Kpahan  particularly  confifts  in  the 
great  number  of  its  magnificent  palaces,  handfomc 
houfes,  large  caravanfcras,  beautiful  bazars,  and  in 
its  canals  and  fpacious  ftreets,  the  fides  of  which  are 
adorned  with  rows  of  lofty  plane-trees;  but  the  other 
ftrecEs  are  generally  narrow  and  crocked.  Theworft 
is,  they  are  not  paved  ;  but  as,  on  the  one  hand, 
the  air  is  very  dry,  and  on  the  other,  the  people  wa- 
ter the  ftreec  before  their  houfes  morning  and  even- 
ing, they  are  neither  fo  dirty  nor  fo  dully  as  might 
beexpcded.  They  have  thrceother  confiderable  in- 
convcniencies;  one,  that  the  ftreets  being  over  vaults 
made  for  the  paffage  of  the  canals  which  run  under 
them,  they  fomctimes  fall  in  and  endanger  the  lives 
of  the  pafiVngers;  another  is,  there  being  wells  in 
the  ftreets,  the  fides  of  which  are  even  with  the  earth, 
the  paflengcrs  are  expofed  to  the  fame  danger,  if 
they  do  not  take  fufiicicnc  care ;  the  third  inconve- 
nience is  a  very  difagreeable  one,  which  is  that  under 
the  walls  »if  the  houfes  are  latge  holes  t^or  receiving 
all  the  fikh,  and  fometimes  ferving  as  common  bog- 
houfes.  The  ftreers,  however,  do  not^ftink  as  might 
be  imagined  j  which  is  in  part  owning  10  the  dryncfs 
of  the  air,  and  alfo  to  thefe  pits  being  emptied  every 
day  by  the  peafants,  who  bring  fruit  and  other  pro- 
vifions  to  the  city,  and  load  their  cattle  with  the 
ordure,  which  they  carry  away  to  manure  their  gar- 
dens. 

The  city  on  every  fide  appears  at  a  dillancc  like  a 
wood  intermixed  with  large  and  bfl/  dome*  aid 
■  minarets. 


^      J 


g84    CHARDIN's  TRAVELS  through 

On  the  id  of  February,  1674,  having  fold  great 
part  of  my  jewels,  1  left  Ifpahan  and  arrived  on  the 
13th  at  the  ruins  of  ihc  antient  Periepolis*. 

Ac  a  Uiftance  thtfe  magniticent  remains  appear  as 
in  a  kind  of  amphitheatre,  the  mountains  forming  a 
half  moon  as  if  to  embrace  them.  They  are  fcated 
in  a  fine  plain  due  extends  two  -leagues  in  breadth 
from  the  louth-wcrt  to  the  north-eaft  j  and  near  forty 
leagues  in  Ungch  from  the  norch-wclt  to  the  fouth- 
eaft.  This  pl^in  is  ufually  called  Mardasjo,  and  the 
inhabitants  pretend  that  it  contains  8S0  villages,  and 
about  I  joo  within  the  diftancc  of  12  leagues  round 
tliL'  ruins,  including  the  villages  feated  among  the 
mountains  V  fome  of  which  are  adorned  with  bcauti' 
ful  gardens.  The  greateft  part  of  this  plain  is,  in 
in  the  wincer  fcafon,  floated  with  water,  which  is  a 
very  advantageous  circumftance  with  rcfpeft  to  the 
rice  that  grows  at  that  time.  The  foil  of  this  agree- 
able plain  is  molUy  convened  into  arable  lands,  and 
watered  with  a  number  of  ftreams  that  render  it  ex- 
ceedingly fertile.  It  abounds  with  many  fores  of  birds, 
and  more  particularly  with  cranes,  pigeons,  quails, 
fnipes,  partridges,  hawks,  and  vafl  flights  of  croffs, 
which  are  very  numerous  throughout  all  Perfia. 

The  antient  palace  of  the  kings  of  Perfia,  ufualiy 
called  the  houfe  of  Darius,  and  by  the  inhabitants 
Chcl-nieaar,  or  Chil-minar,  which  fignifies  the  forty 
pilkrs,  is  fiEUaied  to  the  well,  at  thv-  foot  of  the 
mountain  of  Kuligrag-met,  or  CompalHon,  antiendy 
calWl  the  Royal  Mountain,  which  is  entirely  com- 
poied  of  freellone.  That  fuperb  edifice  has  the  walji 
of  three  of  its  fides  ftiil  ftanding.  The  front  extends 
600  paces  from  north  to  fouth,  and  390  from  eaft  to 
weft,  as  far  as  the  mountain,  where  an  afcent  is  formed 

•  There  arc  no  lemsini  cf  the  city  itfclf  now  flanding;  tfiofe 
f.ill  !<>  Ii!  ('■.tn,  beloKt;'!!!^,  jcrirdin^  10  Sir  John  Chardin,  either 
t J  an  ar.rcT  t  leinfle,  iir  nccording  to  Mr,  Comeliui  le  6ruyn,  to 
t'le  ccK'bratvd  pa' .ice  of  I'cirepcli,  tvantonl/  batnt  by  Aluuicltr 

(iji;Gtiit. 

bcttt'ceo 


.  MINGRELIA   inro  PERSIA;      385 

betwefln  fome  fcattered  rocks;  beyond  whicb  there 
appears  to  have  been  formerly  ibiiic  otlier  building?, 
[he  rqcks  appeaxlflg  in  fome  places  findy  Itnoothed 
and  poiilhed. 

The  Kip  of  this  edifice  prefents  to  the  view  a  plat- 
form of  400  paces,  extending  from  ilie  middle  of 
chic  froat  wait  to  the  mouniaJR  ;  and  along  three  fides 
of  tMis  wall  is  carried  on  a  pavement  of  two  ftones 
joined  together,  eight  feet  broad.  With  rclpeil  to 
the  height  of  the  wall,  it  is  in  fome  places  24.  feet-, 
but  it  is  not  every  where  fo  high,  io  iome  places  thfc 
eartli  about  it  is  railed,  and  in  others  the  wall  itfclf 
has  funk.  On  examining  the  previous  remains,  we 
iniiii  proceed  as  we  do  in  examitiing  thofe  celebrated 
beauties,  whom  age  or  ficknefs  has  brought  low, 
that  is  from  the  traces  of  beauty  we  ice.  form  an  idea 
of  what  they  were.  J  he  Hones  of  the  wall  are  black, 
harder  than  marble,  fume  of  ihcm  finely  polifhcd, 
and  many  of  ihcni  of  kich  an  amazing  fize,  that  tc 
ii  difficult  to  conceive  how  they  were  able  to  remove 
and  raifc  fuch  prodigious  mafies. 

The  principal  lidrc^fe  is  placed  befffeen  the  m'ui- 
.  die  of  ttw  front,  and  the  northern  ciid  of  the  edifice. 
Jt  confifts  of  two  Highis  of  ftcps,  thit  wJnd  or?  from 
each  other  to  the  ditlaiicc  of  42  feet  at  the  bottom. 
Thelc  ftcps  are  only  four  inches  high,  and  14.  in 
breadth.  They  are  the  moft  commodious  (lays  M. 
Lc  Bi'uyn)  I  ever  f^w,  except  thole  of  the  viceroy's 
paUce  at  Naples;  which  are,  however,  in  my  opj- 
niun,  fumething  higher.  There  .irc  55  of  tlidefteps 
on  the  northern  fide,  and  53  to  the  Ibuih  ;  but  thelc 
lall  are  not  fo  entire  as  the  others.  I  am  likewife 
perfuadcd  tliat  there  arc  levcral  others  under  ground, 
that  have  been  covered  iiver  by  length  of  time,*  as 
well  as  pirt  of  the  wall,  whicli  riles  4+  feet  f  i  inchea 
high  in  the  front.  At  !he  bocom  of  thcfe  iw  j  (lights 
of  ftcps.  is  a  fingle  Jiighr,  exfendiii^  5  1  feet  4  inches 
-f;om  00c  iQ  ihe  oiJicri  trom  tlutiu;  the  two  Sights 

Vui..  VI.  t:  c  are 


386         CHARDIN's  TRAVELS 

are  carried  off  from  each  other,  and  return  back  to 
the  center  at  an  equal  dillance  from  the  cictrcam  parts 
of  the  top  :  and  above  thcfe  flights  is  a  pavement  of 
large  Hones,  and  another  fingle  flight  of  fteps  75 
feet  in  width,  anrwering  to  that  of  tnc  bottom,  and 
leading  up  to  the  grand  entrance  of  the  edifice. 
This  Aaircafe  has  a  very  fine  and  (ingular  eflcA,  aor 
fwering  to  the  magnificent  remains  of  the  reft  of  the 
building. 

On  atcending  the  upper  fteps,  the  fpe£tator  fees 
before  him,  at  the  diftancc  of  42  feet  from  the  front- 
wall  of  the  Itaiicafe,  two  grand  portals,  and  as  many 
columns.  Thefe  portals  are  22  feet  4  inches  in 
depth,  and  13  feet  4  inches  in  breadth.  On  the  in- 
fide,  U|x>n  a  kind  of  pilaller  on  each  hand,  is  a  large 
figure  in  baflb  relievo  -,  they  l>ear  fome  rcfcmblance 
to  the  fphynx,  and  are  20  feet  from  the  fore  to  the 
hinder  legs,  and  1 4  feet  and  a  half  high.  The  facei 
of  thefe  animals  are  broken  off,  and  their  bodies 
much  damaged  -,  but  what  is  molt  extraordinary,  the 
breaft  and  fore- feet  projeA  from  the  pilafter.  Thole 
of  the  firft  portal  are  turned  toward  the  ttaircafe,  and 
thole  of  the  lecond,  each  of  which  has  wings,  ^e 
the  mountain.  Indeed  it  is  impoflible  to  know  what 
thefe  figures,  thus  mutilated,  were  defigned  to  repre- 
fent  i  but  the  bodies  have  fome  rcfcmblance  to  that 
of  a  horle.  On  the  upper  part  of  thefe  pilalters 
are  characters,  which  from  their  ftnallnefs  and  eleva- 
tion it  is  impufTible  ro  diftinguilh.  The  height  of 
the  firfl  portal  is  rg  feet,  and  that  of  the  fecond  28  { 
the  pilailers  Itand  on  a  bate  five  feet  two  inches  in 
height. 

'i  he  [v.'o  columns  that  appear  between  the  portals 
are  the  leaft  damaged  of  all,  particularly  with  re- 
fpcift  ro  their  c.!piEaI<!,  and  the  other  ornaments  of 
the  uj  per  j).ir[.<i  J  but  the  bales  are  entirely  covered 
over  with  enrth.  They  are  14  feet  in  circumference, 
and  rife  to  the  height  of  54  fccL  There  were  fop- 
4  merly 


THROUGH  PERSIA. 


3»P 


merly  t\i'0  others  between  ihcle  and  the  !a(t  portat;^ 
("everal  pieces  of  wliich  lie  h.ilf  buried  in  rhe  groundd'' 

At  ihr  diibncc  of  52  feet  fouth  of  the  fame  por--- 
lal  is  a  lirge  bafon  for  water,  cut  out  of  a  fingk  ilono 
20  feet  long,  and  17  feet  five  inches  in  breadth,  and 
raifcd  three  feet  and  a  half  above  the  fiirface  of  the 
floor.  From  thi<.  bafon  to  the  northern  wall  is  an 
extent  of  ground  comprehending  1 50  paces  in  length, 
in  which  nothing  is  to  be  feen  but  the  fragments  of 
large  ftone«,  and  pan  of  the  (haft  of  a  column  that 
is  not  ftiircd  like  the  reft,  and  is  twL-nty  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. Beyond  this  track  of  ground,  and  as 
far  as  the  mountain,  the  earth  is  covered  wi:h  heaps 
of  ftones.  *■  ■ 

Proceeding  fouthward  from  the  portals  already  de-' 
(cribed,  you  fee  two  other  Bights  of  Heps  refemblingf'' 
the  former,  the  one  to  the  eaft,  and  the  other  to  the 
weft'.  On  the  upper  part  the  wall  is  embellilhed 
with  foliage,  and  the  reprcfentation  of  a  lion  rending 
a  bull  in  baffo  relievo,  much  larger  than  the. life. 
Thete  are  alto  fmall  figures  on  the  middle  wail.  Thia' 
ftaircafc  is  half  buried  under  the  earth.  1  ^ 

From  hence  extends  a  wail  45  feet  in  lencth,  b«^' 
ywid  the  lower  part  of  the  ftaircafe,  and  th(;n  is  an* 
interval  of  67  feet,  extending  to  the  weltcrn  front, 
which  correfponds  with  the  other,  and  has  three 
ranges  of  figures  one  ovt-r  the  other,  with  a  Hon  tear-  ■ 
ing  an  aft  that  has  a  horn  projcfting  from  the  foTO- 
hwd-,  and  between  thefc  animals  and  rows  of  figures 
is  4  fquarc  filled  with  antique  charaiflers  the  uj-per-' 
moft  of  which  ai^  defaced.  The  figures  are  Ids  da- 
magod  in  that  part  of  the  ftruilure  where  the  ground 
is  lower :  but  the  «nll,  which  extends  from  the  (bir- 
cafc  ro  the  weftern  front,  has  not  any  fiijures.  On 
the  other  fide  the  (lairs  arc  three  ranges  of  fmall 
fisrures  -,  bur  thole  on  the  upper  row  are  only  vifibiB 
trom  the  wailt  downward.  Ihcfe  figures  arc  onljr 
r  fcft  ivne  inches  high,  and  the  wall,  which  Ja, 
C  c  2  five 


yS        CHARDIN's  TRAVELS 

(Tve  feet  three  inches  in  height,  has  an  extent  of  98 
feet. 

On  the  top  of  the  fteps,  laft  defcrtbed,  13  an  en- 
tn'.ncr  into  an  open  place  paved  with  large  ftones, 
■wlioft  breadth  is  equal  to  the  diftance  from  the  ftair- 
cnlc  to  the  firft  columns,  which  comprehends  the 
fpacc  of  21  feet  2  inches.  Thefc  columns  are  dit 
pofcd  into  two  ranges,  each  of  which  confifts  of  fix 
Jjillars,  but  none  ot  them  are  entire;  there  arc  aUb 
eight  baf'S  or  ptdellals,  and  tlie  ruinsof  fome  others. 
At  t!w  diflancc  of  70  feet  8  inches,  were  formerly 
fix  rows  of  other  pillars,  each  row  confifting  of  fix: 
thefe  3f>  pillars  were  likcwife  22  feet  a  inches  diftant 
from  each  other,  but  only  fcven  of  them  are  now 
rniire ;  honcvrr,  all  the  bafes  of  the  others  are 
"  Handing. 

At  the  diftance  of  70  feet  8  inches  from  thefe  rowi 
of  columns  on  the  welt,  toward  the  front  of  the  Aur- 
car^S  were  once  twelve  other  columns  in  two  rangps* 
rach  of  which  contained  fix,  but  only  five  are  now 
■ren»aining.  The  ground  is  there  covered  with  the 
inij^ments  of  columns,  and  the  ornaments  that  ferved 
for  ihcir  capitals  ;  bcc\veen  which  are  jxeccs  of  fcolp- 
tu;''"  ri'nr.f"nti'iff  c.imcis  on  their  knees.  On  the  top 
of  (tv;  "of  ihi  tyjlui'ins  is  a  cmnpartment  reprefeoting 
cs!*.iels  in  th.it  pollure. 

On  advL'.ncii'g  toward  the  e.ift,  you  are  prefented 
with  a  viev/  or  iVveral  ruins,  confifting  of  portals, 
pafiaj^cs  and  windows.  The  infidcs  ot  the  portals 
are  a<iorred  with  figures  in  bafs  relief.  Thefc  ruins 
.  extend  90  paces  from  eaft  to  wtjft,  and  145  from 
n:>r!:h  to  lonrh,  and  are  60  paces  both  from  the 
columns  and  the  moumains.  In  the  middle  of  thefe 
ruins  the  farth  is  covered  with  76  broken  cotumns; 
i(j  of  wl'.ich  ftill  fupporr  the  entablature  :  their  ihafa 
are  form-.d  of  four  pieces,  bcflde  the  bafe  and  ca- 
pital. 

Ai  the  difl:ince  of  1 1 S  feet  from  thefe  columnsto 

the 


THROUGH  i'ERSIA. 


S89 


the  foiith,  is  80  edifice  ihat  rifts  higher  tlun  any 
other  part  of  ibc  ruins,  from  its  being  fituaieii  qu  a 
bill,  rhe  ftoric  wall,  which  is  five  tt-et  ll-vcn  inches 
high  on  chat  tide,  is  coiiipoled  of  a  fingic  ranee  of 
ftones,  fome  of  which  are  eight  feet  deep ;  ami  the 
wall  exccad&  113  feet  froai  cilt  to  wc(t:.  but  has 
neitlter  Qgures  nor  any  o[iier  ornaments.  However, 
in  the  middle  of  the  front  are  the  ruins  of  a  double 
ftaircafe.  on  the  fides  of  which  are  fcveral  figures. 
The  reft  of  the  building  was  chiefly  compoJcJ  of 
large  and  fnall  portals,  arid  is  entirely  d<:ft^o}■cd. 
The  largeft  of  ilicC:  portals  is  fii/e  tect  wide,  and 
five  feet  two  inches  deep.  Among  tlie  reft,  two  por- 
tals appear  to  the  north,  with  three  nicJics  or  windows 
walleO  up.  Under  thefe  purcals  arc  the  figures  of  a 
man  and  two  women,  down  to  the  knees  i  for  tlieir 
legs  are  covered  wicli  earth  that  is  r-ifrd  againit 
them.  Under  the  other  gate  is  the  figure  of  a  man 
holding  a  lion  by  the  mane.  To  the  ijuLh  b  a  por- 
tal and  four  open  windows,  each  of  which  h  fi-'C 
feet  nine  inches  wide,  and  eleven  in  height,  includ- 
ing the  cornice  ;  their  dfpih  is  equal  tti  ihiit  of  ijic 
gTiUid  portals.  The  two  fidcii  oi  tins  gate  arc  curved 
witli  ihc  figure  of  a  man,  with  foniething  on  his  head 
refcmWing  a  tiara.  He  is  actcornpaniea  Ijy  two  wo- 
men, one  of  ihcm  holds  an  umbrella  over  his  head. 
Oo  ihe  infidc,  three  niches  ace  covered  with  :iiKi::nt 
Perfian  ciurjticrs. 

There  are  two  other  gates  to  the  weli  that  are  not 
covered  1  within  one  of  thcfe  is  the  figure  of  a  man 
fighting  a  bull ;  with  his  left  hand  he  "rafpi  a  horn 
in  his  lorehead,  while  with  his  right  he  plunges  a 
dagger  into  his  belly.  On  the  other  fide  the  figure, 
inotber  man  clalps  the  horo  wi'.h  his  right  hand,  and 
ftabs  the  beail  with  his  Iclt.  The  fecund  porta!  h.is 
the  figure  of  a  man  carved  in  the  fame  nwnner,  witK 
a  winged  deer,  thic  his  a  lioni  in  liJs  tonrhcad. 
"Iflrns  were  anti^ntly  ihcemblcns  of  ftrength  and 
■  C  c  3  ma- 


39*       CHARDIN's  TRAVELS 

majefty ;  they  were  therefore  ^ven  to  the  fun  tnd  the 
moon  i  and  Alexander  was  called  by  the  Orientals, 
Dhiilkarnam,  or  the  horned,  bccaufe  he  made  hitn- 
fdf  king  ef  tlie  horns  of  the  fun,  that  is,  of  the  ea& 
and  the  weft. 

Behind  this  edifice  are  the  ruins  of  another,  which 
exceed  it  in  length  by  38  feet.  It  has  alfo  niches  and 
windows,  the  former  of  which  arc  cut  out  of  fmgle 
ftoncs.  A  little  to  the  fouth  is  a  double  flight  of 
fteps,  feparatcd  by  walls  embellilhed  with  fmall  figures 
and  foliiige. 

'  Farther  to  the  fouth,  are  fubterraneous  paffages. 
Into  which  none  of  the  natives  of  the  country  dare  to 
enter,  though  they  arc  faid  to  conuin  great  trcafures  1 
this  is  owing  to  a  general  pcrfuafion,  that  all  the 
lights  carried  into  thcfc  places  will  go  out  of  them- 
felves.  This  opinion  did  not,  however,  intimidate 
either  Sir  John  Chardin  or  Mr.  Le  Bruyn ;  they 
both  examined  them  with  the  utmoft  care,  and  pro- 
ceeding with  lights  through  thefe  paffages,  till  they 
ended  in  a  narrow  track,  which  extended  a  great 
length,  and  appeared  to  have  been  originally  contriv- 
ed for  an  a^]Ucau£t ;  but  its  ftraitnefs  rendered  it  im- 
poITible  to  be  pafled. 

Still  farther  to  the  fouth  are  the  remains  of  another 
edifice,  which  extend  160  feet  from  north  to  fouthj 
and  191  from  well;  to  eaft.  Ten  portals  belonging 
to  it  are  ftill  to  be  leen,  together  with  feven  windows 
and  forty  indofures,  that  were  formerly  covered 
rooms.  In  tlie  middle  are  the  bales  of  36  columns 
in  fix  r.inges  and  the  ground  is  covered  with  large 
fiuries,  under  which  were  aqueduds. 

'i  ti  re  anticnily  flood  another  ftrufture  to  the  weft- 
ward  of  the  Ui\  nicnfioncd  building.  On  the  ruins 
of  the;  wa!',  wlii.h  ilili  riles  near  two  feet  above  the 
pavfncnt,  arc  cm  tlie  figures  of  men  in  bafib  relievo, 
each  rcprclcnred  with  a  iance.  The  ground  enclofed 
by  this  wall  contains  a  number  of  round  ftoncs  that 
were  tli;;  bsfcs  of  columns. 


THROUGH     PERSIA.  3$|kj 

i-On  the  call  fide  of  thcfe  lail  ruins  are  the  remain*., 
of  tbeaiitUulftaircafc,  60  feec  in  length,  refembliflg 
that  oi  the  front  w.ill ;  but  though  moll  of  the  fteps 
arc  deftroyeti  by  time,  the  wail  iliat  fcparates  the  two 
flights  is  tliil  eight  feet  in  height,  nnJ  adorned  with 
figures  almoll  as  big  as  the  life.  Tiie  frunt  CQnt.\inB 
the  reprefentaiion  of  a  lion  encountering  a  bull :  there 
are  alfo  hons  of  the  fame  worlcmanfliip  on  the  wings 
of  the  (iaircafe;  both  of  them  accompanied  with- 
characters  and  figures  almofl  as  big  as  the  life.  Co-, 
lumns  were  formerly  dll'pofcd  bciwetn  this  edifice 
and  the  other  lalt  nientioned.  Anion^  thefe  ruins 
are  four  portals,  caclt  adorned  with  the  figure  of  a 
man,  and  two  women  holding  an  umbrella  over  his 
iiead. 

A  Jittle  CO  the  north  of  thefe  two  laft  edifices  arc;, 
two  portals  with  their  pilallcrs,  on  one  of  which  U 
alio  the  figure  of  a  man  and  two  women,  one  of 
whom  holds  an  umbrella  over  his  head.  Abauc  thefe 
women  is  a  fmall  figure  with  wings,  which  are  ex-;- 
panded  lo  the  fides  of  the  portico.  The  lower  pari 
of  the  bulb  of  this  figure  feems  to  terminate  on  the,' 
two  fides,  with  a  fpread  of  foliage,  and  a  kind  of, 
frieze.  Over  the  fecond  figure  a  man  is  featcd  in  a 
chair,  with  a  DaiF  in  his  hand  ;  and  ano[hi;r  Hands 
behind  him,  with  his  right  hand  upon  tiie  chair:  a 
fmall  figure  above  holds  a  circle  in  its  left  hand,  and 
points  10  fomething  in  his  right.  Under  this  portal 
are  three  ranges  of  figures,  all  of  whith  have  their 
hands  lifted  up  j  and  over  the  third  pilafter,  which 
ftill  remains,  two  women  hold  an  umbrella  over  the 
head  of  a  man.  The  earth  is  alio  covered  with  frag- . 
mcncs  of  columns  and  other  antiquities. 

From  hence  you  proceed  to  the  laft  ruins  of  tht 
ftrudurcs  on  the  mountain.  On  the  foudi-Cdq. 
are  two  portals,  under  each  of  which  a  man  is  feaietj^  1 
in  a  chair,  with  a  Itafi'  in  his  right  hand,  and  in  his ' 
>  kifid  ,of  vafc;,^bcjynj}„him  is  .another  figiYci.i 


392         CHARD!N'i  TRAVELS 

which  holds  fometh'ing  on  his  hetd  like  thie  tail  o^  a 
Ica-hoiic,  and  hasalinen  clo:h  in  his  right  hnod.  Bc- 
liintl  sre  three  rows  of  figures  wirh  lifted  hands  :  four 
ih  the  firfl,  and  five  in  each  of  the  oiher  two  rows. 
They  are  three  fi:et  four  inches  high  ;  but  the  fcated 
iigurts  are  much  larger  than  the  life.  Above  this  are 
fiveral  ornr.:i;ciu.-.l  ranges  of  foliage,  the  lowefl:  of 
which  is  InLcrmixed  with  fmall  lions,  and  the  high^ 
with  oxen.  Over  thefe  ornaments  is  a  little  winged 
figure,  which  holds  in  his  left  hand  fomething  that 
rcfemble  a  finall  glafs,  and  makes  a  fignal  with  iu 
right.  Thcfe  portals  are  twelve  feet  five  inches  in 
breadth,  and  ten  feet  four  inches  deep;  and  die 
higheft  of  the  prlafters  is  from  twenty-eight  to  thirty 
feet.  On  the  two  toward  the  north  a  man  is  feaeed, 
Tvith  a  perfon  behind  him,  like  the  preceeding  figures  j 
and  behind  this  are  two  other  men,  holding  in  thetr 
hands  fomething  that  is  broken  :  before  die  figuit 
rcprcfenied  fitting,  are  two  other  figures,  one  with 
his  hards  on  his  lips  with  an  air  of  fakitation,  and 
the  other  holding  a  linall  ve.Tcl.  Above  thefe  figures 
is  a  fione  ?.l!cd  v/it!i  ornaments,  and  below  are  five 
nngi-s  c  f  iipurip,  tliree  fct-t  in  height :  thefe  are  a 
band  of  !«! litis  armed  in  diiTererc  manners.  From 
the  fool  of  thefe  mountains  you  have  a  full  view  of 
all  the  luins,  except  the  walls  and  ilaircaftrs  that  can- 
rxt  h^re  be  ICL-n. 

No  other  difference  is  obfer^'cd  in  the  columm,  ex- 
cept that  fome  of  them  have  capitals,  and  others  hare 
not;  wirh  rcfpeft  to  the  elevation  of  thofe  that  are 
perfect,  they  are  all  fiom  70  to  72  feet  high,  and  are 
r  8  fccr  five  inches  in  circumference,  except  thofe  near 
the  rirlt  portals.  The  bjfes  arc  round,  and  24  feet 
five  inches  in  circumfercnrc  ;  thcfe  are  four  feet  three 
inches  hi^^.h,  an.i  the  lower  moulding  is  one  foot  five 
inches  ih-Al;.  They  Iiave  three  forts  of  ornaments, 
r.-hich  nniy  be  termed  capitals. 

Btfiut'  the  b.ifib  relievo  already  mentioned,  there 


THROUGH   PERSIA. 


393 


are  mnny  others  i  particularly  the  reprefcwation  of 
a  triumph,  or  a  proccfiion  of  people  bearing  prefents 
TO  3  kine,  confiltiiig  of  a  great  number  ot'  figures, 
with  Ibme  led  horfes,  an  empty  churioc*  a  l«i  camel* 
&c.  The  drapery  of  all  the  human  figures  in  this 
edifice  is  extreamiy  rtngiilar,  and  has  no  reiation  to 
that  of  the  antient  Greeks  and  Romans.  Their  mi- 
Ikary  habits  are  agreeable  to  the  mode  of  the  Perfians 
and  Meder.  The  nile<i  of  art  are  not  obfervcd  in  the 
figures,  fincc  nd  rr.ufclcs  are  viGble  in  the  naked 
parts,  and  the  figures  tliemrelves  have  a  heavy  air : 
nothing  has  been  oblcrved  but  the  contours,  and  this 
Uegkdt  raufes  ihcm  to  appear  itiff'  and  inelegant : 
the  draperv  has  alio  the  fame  df  fefts,  and  the  whole 
has  a  taftelfs  famcnefs.  However,  the  proportionj 
have  been  finely  kept,  which  piovcS  that  thole  who 
made  them  were  not  entiidy  deftitute  of  cajiacity, 
hut  were  probably  obliged  to  be  too  expeditious  to 
fiiiiih  thrO!  with  proper  care.  The  gentr;il'ty  ot  the 
ftrnie^  are  poliflied  like  a  mirror,  particularl/  thofe 
wiihin  the  portals,  and  which  compofe  ihe  windows 
and  pavements.  Thefc  are  of  dirfcrent  colours,  as 
yellow,  white,  grey,  rrtl,  deep  blue,  and  in  fome 
places  black  ;  but  tlie  (tones  of  the  greatell  pare  of 
the  edifice  are  of  a  clear  blue. 

Indeed  every  thing  correfponds  with  the  grandeur 
and  magnificence  of  a  great  king's  palace,  lo  which 
the  images  and  relievos  give  a  lurprifing  air  of  ma- 
jefty.  it  is  certain  there  have  been  very  (lately  por- 
tals and  grand  galleries  to  afford  a  communication 
with  all  the  detached  p^rts  of  the  lirufturc:  mod  of 
the  columns,  whofe  remains  are  lljll  fo  beautiful,  were 
evidently  intended  to  fupport  thofc  calirrie.'',  and 
then-  even  fcems  to  be  ftill  fome  remains  of  the  royal 
Wpartmcnce.  In  a  word,  the  i'lsgnificence  of  tliefe 
t«ins  can  never  be  fufficiencly  admired ;  and  this 
■ftrufture  muft  nndoab  edly  have  coft  imnietiii;  trea- 

ts.     This  palace,  -w+iichwas  the  glory  cf  all  the 
Eall, 


394       CHARDIN*s  TRAVELS 

Eaft,  owed  its  d<;ftru£tion  to  the  debauchery  and 
frenzy  of  Alexander  the  Great,  who  after  he  had  pre- 
fcrved  it  from  the  ravages'of  war,  above  20LO  years 
ago,  reduced  it  to  afties  at  the  foliciiation  of  Thais  a 
Grecian  courtezan. 

There  are  two  antient  tombs  of  the  kings  near 
the  mountain,  one  to  the  north,  and  the  other  to  the 
fouih  V  both  of  them  are  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  and 
are  noble  fragments  of  antiquity.  Thf  ir  fronts  are 
covered  with  figures-  and  other  ornaments ;  and  the 
form  of  both  are  nearly  the  fame.  That  part  of  the 
tomb  on  which  the  figures  are  carved  is  40  feet  wide; 
the  height  is  almoft  equal  to  the  width  below,  and 
the  rock  extends  on  each  fide  to  the  diftance  of  fixty 
paces.  Below,  a  range  of  four  columns  fupport  the 
entablature  on  their  capitals  -,  each  of  which  is  com- 
pofcd  of  the  heads  of  two  oxen  as  far  as  the  brcaft, 
with  the  forelegs  bent  on  the  top  of  each  column. 
The  gate  which  is  furrounded  with  ornaments,  is 
placed  between  two  of  thele  columns  in  the  middle, 
but  is  at  prcfcnt  almoft  clofcd  up.  Above  the  co- 
lumns is  the  cornice  and  entablature,  adorned  with 
1 8  fmall  lions  in  bafs  relief,  nine  on  each  fide  ad- 
vancing toward  the  middle,  where  jhere  is  a  fmall 
ornament  refcmbling  a  vafe.  Above  the  lions  are 
two  ranges  of  figures,  almoft  as  large  as  the  life, 
fourteen  in  each  range,  armed  and  lifting  up  their 
hands,  as  if  to  fupport  the  building  above  themt 
and  on  the  fide  is  an  ornament  fbmewhat  in  the  form 
of  a  pillar,  with  the  hand  of  fome  animal  that  has 
only  one  horn.  Above  this  is  another  cornice,  CMnt- 
mentcd  with  leaves.  On  the  left,  wh^re  the  wall 
projeds,  are  three  rows  of  niches,  one  above  each 
oclicr,  each  of  them  containing  two  figures,  armed 
with  lances,  and  th;te  others  on  the  fide  armed  in 
the  fime  manner.  There  are  likcwife  two  on  the 
right  fide,  with  their  left  hands  placed  on  their 
bLards,  and  the  right  on  their  body ;  on  the  fide  of 
thcfw  are  three  others,  in  the  fame  difpofiiion  as  thofc 


THROUGH  PERSIA. 

On  the  other  fide.  At  fome  diftance  below,  and  be-  , 
twccn  there  figures  and  an  ornament  that  has  fopoe 
diftanc  refemblanceof  a  round  pillar,  there  is  another 
figure  on  each  fide,  very  much  impaired.  Above  on 
three  Itcps  Itands  a  figure  that  has  the  air  of  a  king,  _ 
pointing  at  Tomeihing  with  his  right  hand,  and  hold 
ing  a  kind  of  bow  in  his  left.  Before  him  is  an  al-^ 
tar^  on  wiiich  an  ofil'ring  is  made,  from  whence  th< 
flamrs  are  reprelented  af,;ending.  Above  this  a' 
appears  the  moon,  and  it  is  faid,  that  there  was  c 
a  fun  behind  the  figure  ■,  but  nothing  of  it  is  now  ti 
befcen.  In  the  middle,  and  above  all  this  appearsa 
fmall  myftic  figure,  thac  is  alfo  to  be  feen  in  feveral 
parts  of  the  other  buildings. 

Two  leagues  from  tliefe  ruins  is  a  place  called  Nc^qlJ 
Ruftan,  but  the  traveller  is  obliged  to  take  a  iargfi,? 
circuit  to  go  thither  ■,  becaufe  a  river  croQcs  the  coun- J 
try,  which   cm  only  be  pafled  over  a  bridge,  at  st^Ji 
confiderable  diftance  :  the  plain  is  alfo  cut  into  a  va-._ 
riety  of  fnali  canals,  tliat  are  fo  many  impediments 
10  travellers  in  their  way  thither.     In  this  place  arc^ 
four  tombs  of  perfons  of  eminence  among  the  antienc 
Perfiins,  that  much  refcmble   thufe  of  Perfepolisj 
only  they  are  cut  much  higher  in  the  rock.     This 
place  receives  its  name  from  one  Radan,  whofe  figure 
is  there  carved  to  perpetuate  his  memory.     He  is  faid 
to  have  been  a  potent  prince.     The  tombs  have  t 
bafes  iS  feet  above  the  furface  of  the  caufeway,  antf 
rife  about  four  times  that  height-,  and  the  rock  is  twice  . 
as  high  as  ilic  lombs,  .which  are  60  feet  wide  in  th^* 
middle.     Under  each  tomb  h  a  fcparate  table,  filled^i 
with  large  figures  in  low  relief  i  and  on  two  of  thcfe^' 
tables    arc  fome   traces    of  men  fighting  on  horl 
back. 

On  the  19th  of  February  I   left  Perfepolis,  aft 
having  ftiid  there  five  d.iys,  and  then  proceeding  nine , 
leagues,  the  next  morning  reached  Schiras,  the-  capi-' J 
tal  of  the  province  of  Fars,  ar.d  one  of  the  grcaceft  J^^ 

ana.. 


$96       CHARDIN-i  TRAVELS 

aad  moll  confidcrable  cities  in  Perfia.  It  is  Gtuated 
between  the  mountains,  in  a  pUin  between  teren  and 
eight  leagues  in  length,  and  about  four  in  breadth  : 
as  Hne  and  as  fertile  a  fpot  a»  imaginatioD  con  con- 
ceive. 

The  great  ftrects  are  bordered  wtth  trees :  thefe 
are  their  principal  ornaments  j  for  there  are  not  many 
g;rand  bjzars,  nor  fine  baths,  Moll;  of  the  buildings 
of  the  city  are  in  ruins,  and  the  ftrects  fo  narrow  and 
dirty,  that  they  are  hardly  padable  in  rainy  feafons ; 
and  in  ieveral  places  paiTengers  are  obliged  to  bend 
their  bodies  in  order  to  walk  under  the  arches  before 
the  houfcs,  efpecially  in  the  quarter  inhabited  by  the 
Jews.  I'lie  Itrects  are  alfo  made  extreamly  ofTenflve 
by  the  maoy  nccefTary  houfes  in  tliein,  which  render 
the  air  very  difagreeablc  :  the  jackals  not  only  infeft 
the  burying  grounds,  but  often  commit  great  difor- 
dera  in  the  city,  and  in  the  night-time  make  diTmal 
bowlings  that  relenible  an  human  voice. 

The  public  gardens  at  Schiras,  which  are  about 
twenty,  are  extreamly  delightful  i  the  trees  are  the 
hrgeft  of  the  kind  perhaps  in  the  world :  thefe  are 
planted  without  order,  and  the  ibil  enamelled  with 
flowers,  which  arc  in  the  greatefl  plenty,  and